Today was the first time I used this stuff, and I really like it. I have a HVLP setup for when I'm painting cars, but for something as small as a playfield I wanted to try something more convenient. I have to say... I'm really impressed with this!

I wanted to seal in all of the work I've done on a playfield out of a Grand Prix. After all of my touch-ups with acrylic paint, and the releveling of inserts. I picked up 2 cans off Amazon for $45ish.

With one can I was able to lay down 3 coats with the first being a really light one, and a recoat after a 15 minute flash time.

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These aerosols are awesome. Soooo much easier (no measuring, mixing, and cleaning).

I'm definitely going to get more.

-Paul

That came out really nice!

I just love the convenience of using the cans. They're perfect for this size of a project.

-no mixing cups, stirrers, filters, gun stands... etc
-no getting your gun set up
-no cleaning your gun afterwards
-no hoses to trip over, or water traps to empty
-only the empty cans to throw out, and you're done with cleanup!

The quality of the clear IMHO is perfect for a pinball playfield, and the spray pattern out of the can is perfectly acceptable. You can still see how it's laying down, and adjust accordingly. For the casual/hobbyist restorer the the cost per ounce of the clear while higher than buying and mixing the 2 parts separately is gained back with the ease of use and convenience.
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If someone is already "in the rhythm" with using an HVLP setup then these cans don't make much sense.

-Paul

Sounds good!

I only got a 1st light coat, and a heavier 2nd coat with one can. (maybe a little more after the 2nd coat) I overlapped each pass with the nozzle by 1/2 of the previous pass. All passes were done length wise.

You'll really see any imperfections after these 2 coats. Mostly around each insert. Do DOT try to fill these gaps in with the can! It is way too thin, and will pool around the inserts making it worse. If you do have to fill in any inserts I recommend getting a quart of clear and pint of hardener, and filling them in with an eyedropper.

At this point is where I'd lay down any decals of any more touch-ups.

I let mine sit for a day before I sanded to flatness. Then followed by an additional 2 coats to completion.

It's funny this topic came up because I just ordered another 4 cans about 5 minutes ago to lay some clear on a Cyclone playfield I just got.

-Paul

I'm using a clear with a hardener in the eyedroppers. It is not the clear out of the SprayMax can, because it is too thin.

Oh..

https://www.amazon.com/Restoration-Shop-Gloss-Urethane-Hardener/dp/B00BLBR9KQ/ref=pd_ys_c_rfy_rp_m_289_1

Here's a pic of some inserts filled in with this clear after I laid down the 1st 2 coats to lock down the art, and touch-ups.

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I let this sit 24 hours before I sanded it flat again, and laid down the last 2 coats of clear.

-Paul

I tried that too, and it did work filling in cupped inserts and divots.

The seams around the inserts is where I had trouble with the can. I'd "lay a bead" of clear along the seam using an eyedropper, and it appeared to look OK. When I came back 15 minutes later it wicked down past the insert onto the floor beneath the playfield leaving behind high spots on each side. It was a mess! It happened on mostly larger inserts where the epoxy holding them in didn't quite cover the entire circumference of the insert. It wicked down, and found a space.

When I mixed my own clear it filled them in no problem.

I'm still learning as I go.

-Paul

This makes sense. The area under the decal was sanded with 600 grit. The decal now prevents the new layer of clear from filling in that 600 grit scratches. It actually amplifies the 600 grit scratches giving a cloudy appearance under that decal.

This is great information for any future work!

-Paul

That Ultimate compound is ok I guess, but you should still follow it up with your polish. It'll polish out the fine scratches left by the compound.

I use Meguire's 105 followed by Meguire's 205 with a DA for a mirror finish.

-Paul

Spinning a sharp countersink bit with my fingers worked really well for me.

8 coats from one can? How big is that can?

I only get 2 - 3 coats with me laying down a very light 1st coat.

From the pic you posted it looks like you took it right after you laid down your last coat, and it still has to flow out because you can see the texture to it.

It can also be that the coats were too light with not enough to flow out on each coat. It'd also explain how you got 8 coats.

-Paul

That's exactly how I spray mine, and why I asked how he got 8 coats out of one can.

-Paul

That makes sense how you got 8 coats out of a can. I think you'd be happier with laying coats down much thicker. You can watch how the spray flows out with your previous pass, and it'll flatten out nicely with very little sanding needed. Being that your playfield is laying flat you won't get any runs in it. It'll level itself out.

These pics won't be pretty, but here's what it looks like laying on a light 1st coat, and ending up with the 3rd coat. Which for me was about 1 can.

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2nd coat (heavy)-
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3rd coat about an hour after spraying (leveled out)-
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It was after this that I sanded flat, filled in the inserts, sanded flat again, and laid down an additional 2 coats.

-Paul

I wish I'd taken more pics of the process on this one, but I had a bad case of 'getdoneitis' so here's one pic that shows the finished result.

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That came out great!

The number of coats mean nothing.

Remember a lot of clear is sanded off while leveling everything.

It's done when it's flat (if you want it to be), and it'll take as many coats as needed to achieve that.

2 mls thick, 10 mls thick, 30 mls thick?.... whatever it takes to get it where you want it.

-Paul

Not pinball, but I love the ease of use with these cans for small jobs!
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That was fun to watch your progression on that. You did an amazing job!