Touch up with acrylic, wax and protect with some Mylar?

Holly Molly! This looks incredible - the actual result and the pictures.

Clear is going to adhere to bare wood like there is no tomorrow.

You shoot the second layer either before the first coat has dried to a point where the second coat can no longer fuse into it, or after it has dried and you have sanded it to create tooth for the next one to properly stick to it. Check the product sheet of what you are using for specifics. The PPG Shopline I use says two medium wet coats 2-5 minutes apart.

A full can seems like an awful lot of clear. The idea is to get a wet coat that covers the playfield and that's flat wherever the playfield is flat. In areas where the playfield is not flat, surface tension is going to create highs and lows no matter how much clear you shoot. And there is a limit to how much thickness you can shoot because at some point the clear will flow off the playfield or through holes. It's not like a bath tub.

The problem when you shoot two much clear is that it does have that glass like satisfying look when you first shoot it, but you end up having to do a lot more sanding. Sanding and cleaning is the part that takes an awful lot of time and it sucks.

If you got the instructions from Jappie, go with what he says. His result is impressive. Maybe 3 cans isn't that much after all. In terms of time, seems like 5-8 hours is enough before sanding and applying the next coat.

That's an excellent point. Probably the reason why shops such as HSA take 6-8 weeks to clear a playfield. And even then, I got a playfield from them that was dead flat when I received it and now has some very slight "telegraphing" (to use Vid's term) around some inserts. You have to look for it but it's there.

Looks like you got a bit of orange peel with the Spraymax. There's a guy in this thread who recommends doing one heavy coat to limit the peel. http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=39399.0

Then again it could have to do with the nozzle.

That's where SprayMax could be a problem. You want to fill it with an eye dropper and the same clear. You would need to find a way to spray some in a container so it can be picked up with the eye dropper.

Will be interesting to see. One problem you could have if the spray max is still fresh is the bottom and top layer cure and contract at different rates. Probably not an adhesion problem but maybe it means you want to wait a little before sanding flat and polishing.

If the layer underneath is still early in curing and releases gases you can get bubbles.

Really hard to tell. I don't think it is only about the polishing. Depends on the results you are looking for. The clear continues to cure and shrink for a long time so some folks wait for several weeks before final sanding and polishing to get a really flat mirror surface.

If you're just worried about adhesion and clear compatibility I don't think you need to wait more thanks a day.

Silicon?

I'd try spraying on a test surface that has the MX-8000 and another part of the surface that hasn't. I haven't heard of anything that does a good job at removing silicone. Could be that the MX is the contaminant. Better figure it out right away.

Impressive recovery!!!

He's certainly using the right combination of clear, paper and tool.

Also, I don't think all wet sanding is created equal. That is, wet sanding does not have to be that wet and can be simply damp. In this video for instance, the pad is damp, not wet. I suspect it cut down on the amount of slurry that makes it into the holes and has to be cleaned.

That's quite different from comparatively large amount of water I used to sand my playfield with a sanding block. There was no way around it. After literally 10 second the sanding residue had accumulated on the paper into a couple of areas so the sanding was no longer uniform or even effective. The only way to make it work was to clean the sanding paper in water often and also to use lots of paper towels.

Would be great to get the dry sanding the work.

My own experience / observations... Dimples mostly come from compression of the playfield wood. I have a LOTR that was heavily dimpled that got professionally clearcoated when I restored the game. There are still hardly any dimples and that was 3 years ago. You can kind of see it before in https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lotr-refresh#post-3129134 and after in https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lotr-refresh/page/2#post-3292380. Once the wood's been compressed and is protected by a thicker coat of clear, it is a lot more resilient.

I saw in person a couple games restored by HEP and even after a few years, there are hardly any dimples.

On the other hand, the clear on the LOTR has recessed by a very slight amount around some of the inserts. You really have to look for it with the right lighting and at an angle to see it.

I got a NIB AFMr and after 500 or so plays, there are dimples all over the playfield, and the clear has also shrunk a bit around some of the inserts. It happens with or without heat as the clear cures.

Thought I'd ask an expert...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hep-this-week-9-17-18/page/68#post-5019904

As others have said, clear should only be on the playfield. Clearing the metal guides would be a disaster.

These are handy to regrain the metal guides https://www.amazon.com/Flapper-Wheel-Buffing-Flap-Wheels/dp/B01GIGZ4VO/ref=sr_1_2

Your game looks great. A while back I also sprayed outdoor and I ended up getting a little bit of dust. Not SprayMax but standard 2PAC. I like your idea of the rotisserie. Just out curiosity, why not turn it 180 degrees?