Baby Pac-Man
Bally, 1982
Banzai Run
Williams, 1988
Cheetah
Stern Electronics, 1980
Cirqus Voltaire
Bally, 1997
F-14 Tomcat
Williams, 1987
Future Spa
Bally, 1979
Getaway: High Speed II, The
Williams, 1992
Lightning
Stern Electronics, 1981You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider gdonovan.
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Quoted from mrm_4:Ive watched a bunch of videos on YouTube with car guys using this stuff and sanding within in hours but it seems all that goes out the window with Pinball, I dont get it.
I sanded within hours, no problem at all as long as the coats are thin.
Quoted from mrm_4:Sweet, good to know. Thanks man!
I was pleased as to how it came out, wasn't concerned with making it perfectly flat as I plan to repaint later. Plays great! I did fill the low spots though.
Quoted from ktownhero:Is it problematic that you left the side rails on while clearing?
No problems at all.
Quoted from Deez:Why wouldn't you remove them? Seems like you've sealed them in now.
So? Playfield is getting redone in future.
Quoted from Deez:Just seems lazy after all the work stripping the field to not remove 10 more screws.
Some are not screwed, staples.
Quoted from kcZ:Reminds me of a car that I saw at the gas station yesterday... It was rusting around the wheel wells but they put blue duct tape over it, blue car looked fine until I was about 20' away.
Since you will never own nor play the machine in question.. I will file your advice in the appropriate container.
Quoted from mrm_4:As it dried it lost its glass look and I got the orange peel effect. So should I wet sand and do another run? Or does this polish out?
[quoted image]
Looks like it was on a little heavy.
You might be able to wet sand it down and polish out. I'd be tempted to wet sand it smooth and mist a light coat on it.
Quoted from ktownhero:Can you put an opened can of 2k into the refrigerator to extend its life?
Yes, some guys report putting it in the freezer for weeks too.
Quoted from Pablito350:I'm using a clear with a hardener in the eyedroppers. It is not the clear out of the SprayMax can, because it is too thin.
I have had good luck spraying the Spraymax into a small cup and then using an eyedropper. Filled some pretty big divots in my Hearts and Spades that way.
Quoted from dudah:I’m looking to clear a cabinet. I know little about clearing and this product has always intrigued me. Could I spray it with the cabinet still vertical or would I have to lay each side flat to cover?
I did a matte finish 2k and it was vertical.
Quoted from PinballAir:What about using a shop vac discharge?
If you have a clean vac.
Frankly I'd have zero issues breathing the air out of my 2 stage compressor for a few minutes, the atmospheres I have worked in would make the air from my compressor the finest alpine breeze in comparison.
Quoted from yellowghost:Wonder why spraymaxx loses that much volume.
True for all clearcoat I think.
Quoted from PinballAir:You guys have all the luck up there.
I just purchased a 6 pack shipped from Amazon for $15 a can I think. Was $105 with tax.
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:Is rapid prep made by the same company that makes the other one to remove mylar?
Yes.
Quoted from killerrobots:I am just wonder if this is more of a philosophical problem than a practical one. Has anyone had issues with using more than 3 coats?
Just my opinion of course.
This is a product that has been in use for sometime, if there was a problem with many coats it would have shown itself by now.
This thread alone is 6 years old.
Quoted from PinballAir:I think it is more the surface is so uneven.
It is easy to burn thru the high spots like around sunken inserts.
Correct.
This playfield has a total of 3 cans, it needed extensive work with lost paint, sunk inserts and other assorted issues. It saw extensive block sanding and insert filling to get somewhat flat and to be honest could use one more if I wanted a perfectly flat surface. It's close enough compared to where it started.
20211015_192543 (resized).jpgQuoted from PinJim:Amazing work!
Would have been better but I'm trying to make pintastic.
My Flash Gordon been working on for a few months, getting into the end stages now. Going to do all the insert keylines with stencils made with Cameo Silhouette 4 cutter.
20210821_144501 (resized).jpgQuoted from Barr993:I thought that was a post screwed down in the background but now realize it's just standing there. It's so shiny the deep reflection got me!
It will be at Pintastic if you want to give it a play.
84e9d74038d1e65b12f2c56435766eb739f9d044 (resized).jpg9980dcbc8364288414e64a3c86b454ef228f3721 (resized).jpgd8f9f50d953617aacc24b54c584937cdcca6e44a (resized).jpgQuoted from bigguybbr:That playfield has come a long long way from where you started with it. Great job!
Thank you, better than I thought it would frankly!
Quoted from Garrett:I have a question for those that have used this clear coat on EM machine. Does it dramatically effect the intended gameplay?
I have an Aztec I'm working on and need to clear it when completed. [quoted image]
My Hearts and Spades is clear coated, plays great!
Quoted from budfrog80:Has anyone ever just polished the final coat without sanding? I am about to reassemble an eight ball playfield and it looks perfect. Would it be too slick? Thanks guys?
My Hearts and Spades came out fine, I never polished the final coat.
Quoted from rotordave:If you have access to a buffer, then definitely do it.
It looks good after spraying, but after a careful sand and good buff, it looks like a new playfield.
rd
No sand, no buff.
Resized_16432365201857850502988331537684_130036614103474 (resized).jpegQuoted from mrm_4:Found this in my paint cabinet. Forgot I bought it last year before I moved. How long is this stuff good for?
[quoted image]
Should be fine, I have used older.
Quoted from A_Bord:BTW - what is the timing on safe exposure while the playfield is curing post spray?
Not long once the propellants have vented out.
I have usally handle a playfield after a half hour.
Quoted from radium:I don’t see any benefit to this versus the 3M masks people typically use. With chem masks all that matters is that they fit and seal perfectly, that the cartridge is rated for isocyanates, and that you use fresh cartridges.
Haven’t seen this one. If you go this route, by the time you add mask and hose you’re already in range of buying a turbine supplied air unit like the HobbyAir or Breathecool that is better known.
There is no way I would breathe compressor air regardless of how it’s filtered.
I breath compressor air all the time, cleaner than the air I used to breath in diesel shops.
Its just compressed outside air, if you have that much compressor oil in the air stream you are long past the point of compressor overhaul.
Quoted from docquest:Exactly my thoughts as I decided supplied air is the way to go vs a mask with filters on it.
But there seems to be a wide range of opinions from one end:To the other:
So I think i'll just spend a couple hundred more and get an OSHA approved air source vs just using a filter on a standard oil free tool compressor. In the grand scheme of things the extra cost is not that much more but will give me more peace of mind.
Air source is best- I got away from masks with filters as I had a fresh set that was bad and had a raging headache for 2 days. The filters will give you a false sense of security as even bad will suppress the smell but not the really bad compounds.
Quoted from Jeffreyjonesbsme:I'm restoring a Bally Playboy and I'm using rattle cans for the paint (stencils and base coat).
I'd like to use SprayMax 2K clear over the top, but I don't want to have it react badly with the rattle can paint.
Has anyone here used this over rattle can paint before?
Yes, I had no problem at all.
Your mileage may vary of course.
Quoted from mrm_4:Naphtha is the good stuff
[quoted image]
Banned for sale in CT now, I have to stock up when out of state.
Quoted from Chrimeg:First coat I lightly sprayed and then waited 10 minutes or so. Sprayed heavier coat and waiting another 10 minutes then emptied the can. Waited a day or two and sand flat as best I could. After about a week I ruffed it up with a brown 3M pad and done some touch ups.
Than about a month after this first coat sprayed a second can in a similar matter but heavier. Waited a a few days and sanded flat and still low spots etc. Scuffed with 3M pad again and made sure playfield was scuffed well.
Think it was about a week after that sprayed my third can. Sprayed it heavy filling in all the areas. Waited 3 days or so and then started the sanding from 1000 to 3000 grit. Buffed with Novus two and thats where it sits. The sanding & buffing took a week or so.
Been about two months now and yes you can feel the dieback . Not bad but if you run you fingers over it you can feel the circles around the lens rings. Really fine but noticeable. I'm hoping I can just do a light sanding to remove them and buff again with novus.
The question you have to ask is it worth the effort?
If the dieback is so minor and will have no effect on gameplay is it better to just leave it? Up to you of course.
Quoted from slochar:It just means that the edge of the insert wasn't sealed, so the clear is wicking down into the sides. It will be ok in home use (all wax will do is get jammed in there, though).
It depends on your goal on the PF if you want it "perfect" or "good enough". I usually go for good enough myself.
On Seawitch I ended up using DiamondClear with a dropper to buildup the insert areas, was a good learning experience.
6b6a7ed0afcc32a7183a8a4fb8c50e648d991f1e (resized).jpga464eaefb4bf6e9241bf3c427e3e7a68236c0abc (resized).jpge6fde59cc90bdd5efae691d6b8256b504d1ef693 (resized).jpgQuoted from Chrimeg:Looks great! Unfortunately not sold anywhere near me. We are all limited by what's available for purchase. Did you 2K over that or just use the diamondclear?
1) Purchased through Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DMIDEMS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title
Enough to do several hundred game inserts.
2) 2K was final, just used for leveling the inserts.
I do have a test title I'l like to spray with DiamondCoat and see how it comes out.
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:What is this diamond coat?
Looks like a brush on type product
See Amazon link above.
Its a single stage clear product which can be brushed, sprayed or rolled. A few people have done complete playfields with a roller which is where it first caught my attention. I'm using it to level inserts but will spray at least one playfield to see how it works.
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:very interesting, I am curious on the compatibility of this under a 2k clear.
There you go, its exactly what I did.
e6fde59cc90bdd5efae691d6b8256b504d1ef693 (resized).jpgQuoted from Pin_Fandango:looks great, I had seen them. I am not an expert by any means but would these 2 bond to each other or is there a change that the 1k and 2K might eventually ghost ?
Been like that for a year with no delamination and has several hundred plays on it. Manufacturer states can be used under automotive clears.
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:I am surprised some of you did not know about the torch trick, it goes to show how a lot of these skills are transferable from other hobbies...
I got 'roasted' in another thread by a couple pinsidesr when I mentioned that I use both skills from the 'auto bodywork' and 'woodworking' and they started a witch hunt against me as to how I was going to cause people to 'damage' their games... I know how to work paint and have use some woodworking skills to workaround other issues as well...
The torch trick I learned when I built a table for our house and had to use epoxy to fill some holes.
I see a lot of wive tales in this hobby, for example, people continuing to use a plastic polishing compound to 'clean' playfields, and when challenged with facts they just react negatively because 'this is how is had been done for 20 years' . Then you wonder why a 10 year old PF is covered in scratches and looks very cloudy....
Anyway, rant over! the torch does work!
I have done automotive restoration since I was 18 and prop building for the last 15 years and its amazing how much transfers over.
Quoted from jazc4:I want to clear a cabinet for the first time soon. Is the Matte normally preferred for cabinets?
It was just my personal choice, I can't say I have ever come across a glossy finish game from the factory. Anything gloss will show cab imperfections like crazy.
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:Early on in my pinball hobby I bought an old Bally with very hazy original mylar. I did not really find much info on people polishing mylar, all topics were about polishing clear. I have an old air powered 6" DA and tried a bunch of things including Novus. Polishing soft mylar may be quite different than an actual clear coat. In the end I found Novus 3 is barely any coarser than Novus2. My favourite compound is a 3M marine boat polish. It is actually a cutting compound but seems to be a progressive grit. In one go it progressed through multiple grades and did a great job. Pin_Fandango is more to be listened to for polishing actual clear but wanted to bring up mylar in case others want to try it, you don't have to remove it.
I have a Time Machine the former owner polished the mylar covered playfield and you would be astounded on how shiny it is.
54945855230bde30dd34fe604f0136ad4c0e84fb (resized).jpgQuoted from Ollulanus:Anyone have a specific brand recommendation for a mix-it-yourself clear you've successfully used under the rattlecan 2k? I'm about to do a lightning with a god-awful mess of inserts, figure it'll work better to mix something for leveling all the cupped stuff, but plan to rattlecan over it. Just want a known quantity that won't do anything weird when hit with the spraymax.
Diamond clear.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I have to agree.
Diamond Clear is the new SprayMax without the need for a booth etc.
I just used it to repair chipped clear. It works perfectly for clear coat repairs and bonds to pretty much ANY automotive clear.
I does take a few days to dry.
I used it to fill inserts on Seawitch, outstanding results..
Quoted from Garrett:Does it have a lot of die back as it dries? How many times do you have to fill a worst case cupped insert?
I filled once, judge for yourself.
20211018_192425 (resized).jpgQuoted from Garrett:There are Pinside threads going back at least 5-7 years or so regarding the use of KBS Diamond. Saw threads about using a brush or foam roller (with mixed results about bubbling) to clear a playfield instead of spraying.
I'm going to experiment on one of my playfield restores ans spray, will let everyone know how it comes out.
Quoted from Garrett:I think at that point you need the safety equipment as you would an auto clear. What’s the advantage of Diamond over auto clear?
Not as toxic and single part.
Quoted from Ollulanus:I could see the longer dry time being an issue. But the longer shelf life seems like a big plus. In theory you can roller it and let it settle due to the long dry time, reducing the inhalation risk, but what I've seen on here says that works poorly. Very curious if anyone's tried it who's got a few spraymax under their belt to compare.
I have one job in my queue that I'm going to spray the playfield with KBS to see how it comes out.
Quoted from Ollulanus:I think my other question would be cure time too...seems like if it dries slow, you might wanna wait a fair bit longer before putting a ball on it....dunno though.
It's rock hard after a few days, found that out when leveling inserts.
Quoted from Barr993:I've since switched to 2 part clear out of a can to level to avoid the bubbles (as recommended by the Spraymax experienced folks here).
I used one part DiamondMax when filling inserts, outstanding results.
20211018_192425 (resized).jpga464eaefb4bf6e9241bf3c427e3e7a68236c0abc (resized).jpgQuoted from ManbearpigOG:I was trying to research the Diamondmax…. after I had purchased the 2k. It seems quite expensive, but for less headache. So do you still spray 2k over the diamond?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DMIDEMS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title
$68 a quart which is cheap if you have several playfields to do like I do. Might actually last a few dozen.
Yes you clear over it, though I plan on trying to do a whole playfield with Diamondmax, just not got around to it yet.
Quoted from ManbearpigOG:This is not the Diamondmax I was reading about.
It's what I and others used.
Quoted from Boslaw:I had a terrible time with KBS Diamond.
I use for inserts, works great! I am going to try a whole playfield as experiment but going to spray instead of brushing.
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West Chester, PA