You could get traditional 2PAC for filling inserts. No need to use the can for that.
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Quoted from woz:Thanks. It's a long road though I was hoping to pick up something locally in Vancouver what with the impending postal strike and to save money on shipping. I have a feeling that Maple Airbrush Supplies may be my only option.
https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/en/search?q=2k+glamour+high+gloss+clear&xref=
Napa Canada might carry it too.
I just picked up a can from my Ottawa http://max-auto.ca/. It was $25.40 but they had to figure out the price, it was a new product for them and they had some trouble finding it in their system.
I am looking on the SprayMax site.
They state coverage as: Approx. 0.5 – 0.75 m^2 / spray can at approx. 30 – 50 μm dry film thickness
A standard playfield is 0.55m^2 so seems that one can should do one playfield?
Quoted from Wickedbass:I guess that would work if the can went on smoothly perfect conditions ect.. For me however I end doing lots of sanding to fix my f-ups
I can relate! I am repainting an EM backbox head, so far I have sanded off each side once. That is an improvement over my first time repainting though!
I see a few people asking about the "semi-matte" SprayMax 2K. Anyone tried it?
I have an EM playfield to clear and thinking this might suit it better than the gloss.
Quoted from greatwichjohn:Yes Coleman fuel is what I have been using for years. Mostly to wipe down new bare wood playfields for sealing. Used it on some older playfields also before clearing them. The fuel use to not have the rust inhibitor years ago. I have been using the new version for 3 years. I use paper towels, & flip them over to wipe twice clean.
John, how do you seal bare plywood? I am planning a repaint of an EM playfield and was wondering what you use.
Did my first application of SprayMax 2K today....weather holding out in Canada!
Got some fish eye around bumpers where some woodgrain platters had been glued....rats.
Guess I'll be sanding this coat and applying another!
Race against time/weather at this point.
Also I found that the spray pattern is the opposite to what I thought, horizontal nozzle outputs vertical pattern. So definitely need to do some sanding now!
What is the procedure for fixing fish eye? I have some areas....scuff, and fill with a pipette?
I guess the most practical would be to buy some regular 2PAC to do that job.
I see some contradictory information about spray distance. The can says 10 inches while the application sheet says 10-15cm (4-6 inches). I sprayed about 4-5 inches away and got a smooth glossy surface (where it didn't fish eye!).
Quoted from gmkalos:Dude the best stuff (IMHO) is Meguiar's Ultimate Compound! It should be around $10.00 a bottle.
You can get this from Napa in Canada (and you can get SprayMax 2K there as well).
I also got this polisher: https://www.eshine.ca/collections/porter-cable-7424xp-canada/products/1-porter-cable-7424xp-swirl-buster-kit-5-5-ccs-pads
I think I can spray a playfield fast enough that I don't even need to take a breath while doing it
KBS touts that it is self-levelling and amenable to rolling. Never tried it myself there are some threads on pinside where a few folks show results.
Applied SprayMax 2K to my BSD playfield this weekend. Conditions were outdoors, in a spray tent https://www.amazon.ca/HomeRight-C900038-M-Spray-Shelter/dp/B011L3DVVO/ref=sr_1_2 a bit breezy maybe 75F.
Applied one can in three coats with 15 minute flash time between coats. Next day I sanded with 1000 grit and applied about 2/3 of a can in two coats with 15 minute flash time between coats.
I seem to get what I think is solvent pop. Hopefully it'll sand out.
-> When do I sand / polish?
-> Should I increase the flash time wait to avoid solvent pop? Other suggestions?
Quoted from yellowghost:Never heard of that before. What does it look like?
Small craters -- maybe 1mm across.
Here is information I received from VP of Operations for Peter Kwasny Inc. (SprayMax):
My first coat is a even medium coat for coverage
I wait a minute then come right back with my second and final coat, this is a medium – heavy wet coat.
Immediately after application of my second coat, I look at surface from the side to see if I have any dry or orange peel areas, if so I come right back and finesse these areas.
Wet sand and polish depends on room temp, but wait at least 48hrs.
Now, I have wet sanded from 1000 grit -> polish but my playfield isn't totally flat. If I look at reflections I can see that there are still areas that are not perfectly flat. I think that the clear conforms to any dimpling etc. in the playfield. In your experience, can an old playfield truly be sanded flat and is it worth it? Or will dimpling etc. just show up soon after you start playing.
Relevant to my previous post though -- all the trash and craters sanded out.
How long since you cleared it. I found I had to push down quite hard on the buffer and for a lot longer than I thought I’d have to, quite a workout. I used Meguirs 105.
Quoted from Blenderhead:I am trying to find information on using Spray Max 2k to fill in some worn out areas on my Fish Tales playfield. Plan is to use a dropper to fill in worn out areas by collecting some of the clear into a small container so I can use the dropper to "suck up" some of the clear. Can anyone here lead me to a thread# that goes into more detail about this process?
^^^ See directly above -- just use regular clear. There's no benefit to using SprayMax 2K in this case.
First coat done. This is a bare wood repaint that I will fully document in another post. Used most of a can, two rounds with 20 minutes between them.
Instructions on the can are not the same as on the Technical Information Sheet. The can shows to spray at 10" but the sheet at 6-8". I follow the sheet and spray closer.
9D2A97B7-B9E8-4A53-80AD-05DAE1FC10CE (resized).jpeg707EE9F3-8585-46CB-9418-C7419DBFB455 (resized).jpeg
I spray in a spray tent outside, $40 from Amazon. With goggles and a half mask; it sprays fast, can usually lay down a coat without even taking a breath!
Smell is mostly gone in a day.
My application tip is to spray close — 4-5” away. This eliminates most orange peel. If you spray far away the solvent evaporates before it hits the playfield and it won’t level out. Speaking of which, make sure the playfield is level before spraying. I use one can per session; light coat then two medium coats. Flash off 15 minutes between coats. Two cans total is enough for me.
I don't think you need to sand between coats. Flash-off time is given as 10-15 minutes; I wait 20 minutes between coats when applying 1 can to the playfield.
For me I did: light coat; medium coat; medium coat -- that pretty much emptied the can.
My understanding is you waited 30 minutes and did 4 coats; that would be 90 minutes total (3 wait times).
Maybe you oversanded the inserts? I don't think they should be too smooth....
Second coat day. I did the first coat a few weeks ago which included dropping clear in some spots where it didn’t take due to touch-ups. First taped off with painters tape and sanded down with a block to get those close to flush.
This time I used a 600 grit disc and my RO sander set to a slower speed. Just applied it with its own weight, worked great.
One can of SprayMax in 3 coats 20 minutes between each. Looks beautiful even without polishing, no orange peel. Spray distance about 4-5”. I’ll sand and polish sometime this week. Sanding with 1500/3000 then polish.
SprayMax 2K Glamour on sale at NAPA Canada -- $21.99 CDN
https://www.napacanada.com/en/p/MAX3680061?impressionRank=1&keywordInput=3680061
I dripped SprayMax into inserts to fill them. How long will it take to harden? Where it was thin it seems pretty hard, but where it is thicker it is still kind of mushy after 36 hours.
I wouldn't worry, except that the can didn't puncture with the usual "feel". Concerned that maybe the catalyst didn't mix properly.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Usually they are hard enough to wet sand after 24 hrs.
I spray some of the left over remains of the can into a plastic cup to see if it dries as a sample.
Its just a habit i picked up.
You might not have got enough catalyst.
Put it in the sun for a couple hours.
See if it firms up.
Even with reduced catalyst it will still dry. Just takes longer.
It did harden after 3-4 days (RIP mostly full can of SprayMax -- I'll have to find something else to fill inserts in the future). Sanded down and it is nice & smooth now. Hopefully I'm now ready for the final coat once the weather straightens up here. Hot one today!
Tell me how you polish! What pads, how long, what compounds.
When the playfield is under my halogen lights micro scratches really show up, in a halo pattern. Seems like I have to polish hard and long to get rid of them. Using M105 and M205. If I do it outside I think it’s good but under the lights inside — nope.
This looks helpful: https://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-Pro/polishing-how-to-with-meguiars-m105-m205/
Looks like contamination but it's weird that it is on both the wood and the overlay. What is your source of naphtha? I guess that is the only thing on this playfield other than SprayMax?
Check the SprayMax datasheet for spray distance and flash off time.
Anyone else find the cans don’t spray consistently? Some cans are great, others spatter.
Quoted from bigguybbr:A few more coats and the Spring Break will be ready to get a final sand and cure while I get the cabinet fixed up.
Your clear doesn't seem to be levelling out. Seems to have a lot of surface texture. How far away are you spraying?
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:I dont have access to naptha where I live. It is banned here and really do not want to experiment with camp fuel to see what happens.
All that to say, can I just use rapid prep followed by rapid tac and get spraying?
You can buy naphtha at Sherwin-Williams on Clyde Ave. I got a can from there.
The technical data sheet for SprayMax 2K shows a dry film thickness of 40 μm from one can on about a playfield-sized area (how convenient!).
This is about 2 thousandths of an inch. A sheet of copy paper is about 100 μm thick.
Something to keep in mind if trying to level a playfield by spraying successive cans.
I wet sand up to 1500 or 2000 grit then use my Porter-Cable DA polisher with Meguiars M105 and finish with M205.
Find I have to polish pretty long and really apply pressure to get rid of all scratches. Am I waiting too long before polishing or is this just the way it is?
Sprayed on the weekend and the can was sputtering a lot. Do I need to warm up the can?
Nothing scarier than taking the sander to that newly cleared playfield! But it's ready for can 2 when the weather permits.
Quoted from rotordave:I’d be rubbing it down carefully by hand.
rd
My between-coat sanding is 1000 grit with a random orbital set low and just the weight of the sander. Seems to work well.
Previously I was wet-sanding by hand, not sure which is better but using the RO is quick and clean.
Final will be wet sanding by hand through 3000 grit then polish.
Here’s what it looks like (haven’t naphtha yet) after the first can, this is a brand new playfield I made from scratch. Feedback and advise welcome, it is smoother than it looks. Not sure if this will be a 2 or 3 can job.
I used sanding sealer to try and fill the grain as my sealer coat, but should have done more coats; surprised how grainy this maple was.
Thinking to use a Scotch-Brite pad to get in those nooks.
Anyone tried https://www.mapleairbrushsupplies.com/collections/car-rep-2k-products-in-a-spray-can ?
Its claim to fame is that it doesn't have a pot life, unlike SprayMax 2K.
(Pretty mixed reviews on Amazon.)
Dang....
Doing what I hope is final sanding after 3 cans....burned thorugh the clear and paint on an edge of the playfield with the orbital sander at 1000 grit, maybe I tipped it a bit.
It is almost completely covered by a wooden side rail, maybe a 1" sliver will be visible if you stand at the far edge of the machine and look down. It's maybe 1/8" wide at the edge of the playfield so the ball will never touch it.
I'm thinking "best is the enemy of the good" at this point and will do a little touch-up after I polish the playfield. Still wavering but not sure I want to touch it up and spray a fourth can.
Quoted from Mathazar:Wow....that's gorgeous.
This is a “reproduction” playfield I cut and painted with stencils and airbrush. Fun project!
Quoted from jazc4:Where would you suggest I start to learn vector graphics?
Download Inkscape, have a scan on hand, and start playing with Bézier curves to recreate it.
Learn how layers work (put scans in one layer, each colour in another layer). Use layer opacity to help you when redrawing (i.e., make your drawing layer somewhat transparent so the scan shows through as you redraw on top of it).
For simple artwork drawing the curves yourself is viable.
For complex stuff, I bought the Wacom Intuos tablet and redrew using that. For example, most of the baseball player was redrawn using the tablet.
The main reason to use a vector program (as opposed to say Photoshop) is if you are going to use a vinyl cutter to cut paint masks. Then it needs those vectors to make the cuts.
Quoted from Bax1:Hey club. I’m about to use this soon. What are the temps recommended to spray? It’s getting cold in Michigan and wondering if it’ll cure in these temps
https://download.kwasny.com/datasheets/TMB-3680061_(US)EN.pdf
Quoted from pinballinreno:It says its an epoxy?
I wonder if epoxy is a durable as urethane.
I think for all the work involved, urethane is a better choice.
https://www.myperfectcolor.com/Epoxy-Paint-or-Urethane-Paint-Which-is-Better/34194.htm#:~:text=Epoxy%20coatings%20can%20also%20be,when%20exposed%20to%20UV%20light.
Urethane has better impact resistance and would be better suited for pinball.
Where do you see epoxy? It says PU=polyurethane
Quoted from pinballinreno:In the link provided above, under the picture on the left, there are a row of pictures.
The 2nd one says epoxy. I dont actually know what that means other than its epoxy?
I think that is for their paint or primer.
I usually empty a can of SprayMax; if all else is equal this would be more convenient.
Quoted from Ollulanus:Thoughts on this to spray outdoors or in an open garage? Bunny suit and mask of course. Trying to keep it simple for the occasional playfield.
I spray in the backyard with a portable spray booth from Amazon. It works but you need a day with low wind. Tent helps keep crap off the clear. It's not too expensive and I have put mine up / torn it down many times and it is still in fine shape.
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