(Topic ID: 109931)

The SprayMax 2K Auto Clear in a Can Club!

By Curbfeeler

9 years ago


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#231 7 years ago
Quoted from Manimal:

Anyone tried brushing this stuff over a small area? I have a playfield torn down and an re-coating a shooter lane. Fully cleaned, sanded and masked for spraying. However, I have another spot on a different playfield that needs fixing, and I would like to do it at the same time. Quite frankly, I hate to go through the hassle of tearing down another playfield to mask for such a small area (between a quarter and 50 cent piece in size). Has anyone tried to spray into a metal cup and brush this with a small brush? and if so, does it flow out or show the brush marks? Only thing worse than a bad spot is a bad fix.........
Edit. Guess i should add that this other spot is in a hidden area, not in the middle of the playfield. This is why I can't spray it without a tear down, and why I would tolerate a brush touch up if it can look anywhere near decent.

You probably be better off getting the actual clear and hardener and mixing it up separately. Vid talks some about this in his playfield restoration thread.

3 weeks later
#244 7 years ago
Quoted from zaphod:

I have seen this question asked a few times in this thread but don't recall any responses:
For a 60's EM, the gloss is a bit to much for me, has anyone tried the semi gloss aka satin or the matte SprayMax on an EM playfield?

I think you would be better off going with gloss and then knock back the shine with some high grit sandpaper or synthetic steel wool. That way you can get it right to the level of shine you want.

1 month later
#249 7 years ago

I prefer cooler to warmer. I have used this in July at midday and it was a mistake. Since this is a chemical reaction, the warm temp sped up the reaction to the point that micro bubbles got trapped in the finish and I had to sand them off and start over.

5 months later
#298 7 years ago
Quoted from McSquid:

So I have a beat up rollergames that needs new insert decals, which means it needs to be clearcoated. Ill be getting a proper setup someday, but until then im limited to a small corner of a basement, and outside. This stuff seems like the way to go, but im worried about contamination. Id have to do this outside, I don't have the space to build any kind of safe, properly ventilated spray chamber. If I did this on a sunny, 60+ degree day, other than good spraying technique what should I do to ensure decent results? Surely not everyone in this thread has access to a temperature controlled cleanroom...
Id bring it to an autobody shop, but the waterslide decals need to go on after the first light clear, so id end up going twice, and probably end up paying way more than is necessary. Thoughts?

I have sprayed it outside with okay results. You still need to wear protection though.

I prefer cooler temps to warmer. I tried using the stuff when it was too warm and ended up with a bunch of micro bubbles that I had to sand out.

5 months later
#375 6 years ago
Quoted from klr650:

If anyone has figured out a way to get SprayMax out (bubble-free) for filling inserts, please let us know!
On my next SprayMax adventure (a week or two from now), I will be trying out a few methods to get the liquid out without adding any air bubbles. I will definitely post if I come up with something useful!
Edit - This post was referring to the process of collecting the clear in a secondary container for later filling of cupped inserts with a glass eyedropper. Collecting the clear from an aerosol can without entraining air bubbles is a real challenge!

You could build a small vacuum chamber and use that to degas it, that should get rid of the bubbles.

If you don't build a vacuum chamber, make friends with your local HS science teacher, chances are they have one.

Eye dropper with conventional clear is probably still the most practical approach.

1 week later
#417 6 years ago
Quoted from Wickedbass:

Great news. My cans arrived today.
All are 2k clear glamour. $15 per can!!

Which seller did you end up using?

I found out a few days ago that these things have a definite shelf life. I tried activating a can that I had from a couple years ago and it was a dud.

#419 6 years ago
Quoted from Wickedbass:

All cans are stamped 6 22 17
A assume that it the canned date not the experation date
Seller was TCP global

Yes, that should be the canned date. It isn't supposed to last threee years. Mine didn't make it that long. Fresher is probsbly always better in this case.

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