Clinton, SC
Curb - thanks for keeping up with this. One thing I'd like to see in the post are the Temps that people sprayed at versus the results they have gotten. That would be valuable information for all.
Murph
(Topic ID: 109931)
Linked Games
Baby Pac-Man
Bally, 1982-
Banzai Run
Williams, 1988
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Cheetah
Stern Electronics, 1980
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Cirqus Voltaire
Bally, 1997
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F-14 Tomcat
Williams, 1987
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Future Spa
Bally, 1979
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Getaway: High Speed II, The
Williams, 1992
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Lightning
Stern Electronics, 1981
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Quoted from PinStef:Just finished my T2 using Spraymax(Eastwood).
Fantastic Job! Thanks for the report. So you sprayed at around 60 degrees Fahrenheit with the Eastwood Spraymax. That's good to know!
Quoted from tezting:20°C is 68°F so is it not more like around 70? (I also spray around 20°C with success)
Yeah, that was me fat fingering the keyboard and not reviewing my post. 
10 months later
Quoted from selmo:I'm curious about the logistics of professional clear coating -- doing a thin coat then touch up paint, decals, etc. and then several thicker coats. Do you pay to have it coated twice?
My local body shop quoted me a total of $175 (up front) for two quick coats, which i then took back home and painted my touch ups over, and then brought back for two more thicker coats a couple of weeks later. But the logistics of building my playfield jig and transporting it back and forth was a PAIN. Thus I intend to 2PAC on my own from here out.
Murphy
Quoted from Hammerhead:I've used this approach before with my Getaway PF; went off without a hitch and the PF looks like glass.
I was even more careful this time; can someone tell me what I did wrong:
Questions: Where did you start spraying? At the top or the bottom of the playfield? Because it's worse at the top - then it gets intermittent - then better (but not perfect) at the bottom.
If it was atmospheric, you'd have the same crappy results all over. So that's out. I'm thinking it's not "what" was on the playfield either - due to the worse/less worse/bad flow.
If it was SprayMax, I'd call the regional sales guy in your area. I've talked with them before, and they're pretty good. I had a questions about "shelf life" as a can I bought recently had a late 2014 date. I was assured it was fine - but we'll see.
Yes, Sand and have courage. I've been there before - hang in there. You can make this right.
Murphy
Quoted from vid1900:Yep naphtha is good stuff, but it does not do too good on Silicone all by itself.
Well get ready then, because Finish 1 FT200 is 100% PURE V.M.+P. NAPHTHA.
You guys need to read the MSDS sheets.
Hammerhead, I'm going to throw my two cents in here one last time. Vid threw out "Silicone", and that was it. Word from down on high, God spoke. He's probably right. And I admire Vid, I read his posts with great interest and up vote quite often. However.... two cents from an old codger that has worked in wooden boat restoration for 20+ years: Step 1 after stripping clean a playfield? Wipe down with White Vinegar and then Melamine Foam with Isopropyl alcohol the devil out of it. This single step literally helps soften any minute amount of silicone on a playfield. Even "melt" it would be a term I'd use. Followed up a Step 2 of Naphtha cleaning in liberal amounts, the odds of silicone remaining are nil.
I know I'm opening myself up to criticism, but I have no reputation to protect. I've wrapped crappy silicone "fixes" by boat owners in a rag wet with White Vinegar and came back the next day and the silicone pealed off like pudding skin. I have to make sure there's no silicone residue as I need my epoxy to bond where the "fix" was.
BTW Vid, stop recommending polyester resin as a bonding agent. epoxy resin is much stronger and safer to use.
Murph
Quoted from vid1900:Yeah, you have told me before.
I've got a few gallons of "Two Heads" by West and use that all the time too.
But when I tell people to use West Systems, they can't find it at the local Autoworks, then they email me because they can't use the Google.....then I have to search their state on West's website and find a local dealer for them......it's almost too much work.
I'm stupid and take for granted that everyone has a West Marine store in their state. 
Quoted from balzofsteel:I asked a buddy who runs an automotive paint store about the spray can clear.
He isn't particularly impressed with the stuff. Listed off all the cons in the first post plus a couple I can't remember.
Of course, his first recommendation was a proper name-brand clear(with a splat of fisheye stuff) in a spray gun. Second choice was the same name-brand clear with same additive in a Preval Sprayer.
amazon.com link »
Holy crap. Those things are still around? I remember trying one in 1982. Never again.
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