(Topic ID: 109931)

The SprayMax 2K Auto Clear in a Can Club!

By Curbfeeler

9 years ago


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#983 4 years ago

I bought 2 cans of Spraymax 2K. Is this enough to clear an Indiana Jones widebody playfield, or do I need to buy more cans? Also, are you guys doing a light first coat of clear on the playfield, waiting a couple days to cure, then doing paint touchups and sanding into the first coat where needed, and then liberally clearing it all afterwards? I can't wait to see how shiny this and vibrant the colors on this playfield will look after this stuff is applied.

2 months later
#1050 3 years ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

Yesterday was the final coat
So what I’m finding is I’ll get a flawless look using the Ultimate Compound and a pad in a swirling motion but when I go to buff and wipe up the product the microfiber is leaving those tiny scratches.

I think it's more likely the Ultimate compound is leaving the tiny swirl marks because compound is considered an abrasive, and your microfiber is absorbing the compound that was left in those tiny crevices, making it look like it's the towel causing it. I would treat it like the clear coat of a vehicle. You want to use a polish afterwards because that removes the swirls left by the compound.

5 months later
#1128 3 years ago

Does clearcoating act as sort of a bonding agent for the stuff underneath it that is being cleared? I used tacky glue to add glitter to some of my inserts on my playfield, and I'm hoping that spraying the entire film of clearcoat on the playfield will act as sort of a glue to help hold down the glitter and tacky glue. The tacky glue has a good bond but if I apply enough pressure with my finger nail it can chip off.

It is not large surface areas with glue/glitter, it's just applied on small text and border trim of the inserts. I will be spraying 2 cans of this stuff on my playfield tomorrow and I'm wondering if clearcoating helps hold down the stuff beneath it. I feel like it's one of those situations where you can't know the answer until you try.
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#1130 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

You put a mist coat on and wait 15 mins.
Then another slightly thicker mist coat. Wait 20 mins.
Then a light coat. Not heavy at all.
Next day sand with 800, put 3 light coats 10- 15 mins apart. Then Apply a heavier coat.
Next day sand with 800.
Put 2 medium coats 15 mins apart then a heavy finish coat.
Always dropper in inserts or low spots each day.
Day 4 put 3 coats or one complete can.
If it looks like glass, let it dry 8 weeks.
After 8 weeks sand it flat and buff it out.

This is helpful. You are the human version of Watson for Pinside restoration.

2 weeks later
#1136 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

You put a mist coat on and wait 15 mins.
Then another slightly thicker mist coat. Wait 20 mins.
Then a light coat. Not heavy at all.
Next day sand with 800, put 3 light coats 10- 15 mins apart. Then Apply a heavier coat.
Next day sand with 800.
Put 2 medium coats 15 mins apart then a heavy finish coat.
Always dropper in inserts or low spots each day.
Day 4 put 3 coats or one complete can.
If it looks like glass, let it dry 8 weeks.
After 8 weeks sand it flat and buff it out.

Do you know of any local places that sell Spraymax 2K? I am wanting to spray just one more can within the next 2 days and buying online would take too long.

Edit: found some locally.

1 year later
#1546 2 years ago

I don't suppose there is a way to check the thickness of the clearcoat on a playfield? I was going to buy a paint thickness gauge but those only work when the underlying material is metal, not wood. I used 4 cans of Spraymax on a White Water playfield, sanding after 2 cans and sanding again after the additional 2 cans. I have a few low spots around inserts, and I am not sure if I have enough clear coat on the playfield where I can just sand them level with the rest of the playfield. They aren't terribly low.

#1548 2 years ago

I found my low areas, I just don't know if I sprayed enough clear onto my playfield where I can keep sanding the entire playfield until it is flush with the low spots. I used 4 cans. I prefer not having to buy an additional can and having to restart the entire curing process, it has been curing for a month. But if there is no way to visually see how much clearcoat thickness I have to play with when sanding, I will have to buy another can. I have a 40x loupe, maybe I can see the thickness with that but i doubt it.

2 months later
#1592 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

Maybe the whole respirator mask / iso conversation is more of a 'cover my a$$' on the mask manufacturer than actually whether the mask is capable of filtering iso or not?
http://chess-safety.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/06/0406_respirators_isocyanates_spray_painting.pdf

A playfield is small enough where I just hold my breath during each coat and then walk away before exhaling. I still wear a generic respirator, goggles, gloves, and a long sleeve shirt, and spray in the garage with the garage door open... but I don't wear the whole bunny suit with air extraction.

Quoted from rdrapeau3171:

Wouldn't a random orbital work just as well?

A random orbital will work. A $2.99 bonnet drill attachment from Harbor Freight works fine, just don't burn the clear coat but a playfield is small and flat so it's easier to work on than a vehicle's body panels. At most, buy the Meguiar's dual action drill attachment. I wouldn't waste money on a $400 unit unless you're doing dozens of playfields.

3 months later
#1664 1 year ago
Quoted from Chrimeg:

How long should I wait before putting down wax and populating? I've been reading all kinds of dates from from 4 days, to 6 weeks to months....not really sure how long to wait to be honest.

I wax the playfield once I can no longer make an impression into the clearcoat with my fingernail which takes several weeks. 4 days does seem a little too early and it probably hampers the clearcoat from curing at its normal rate.

2 weeks later
#1710 1 year ago

Got some bubbles and fish eyes on my latest coats of Spraymax. Sigh. Now i will have to sand down to remove them, will probably take off a little paint too. Next time I'm doing the Rapid Prep that pinballinreno talks about often. I think the last thing i used before spraying was a tack cloth, it probably had oils and paint from previous wipings. This stuff is sensitive to the most minute things.

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#1713 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I think you can sand out and drill out (by spinning a new exacto knife tip) those bubbles.

That's a good idea. Some of them are submerged bubbles where I can just dig a tiny crater. I might not even have to worry about spot-dripping clear if I can dig a small enough diameter hole and Spraymax enough coats where it should flow enough into and level off enough to just block sand afterwards.

1 week later
#1726 1 year ago

What a deal. Just had to pay $30 for a single can, but it was for the Clear Glamour. Likely going the HVLP route from here on out. Not only for the cost savings, but I have been getting inconsistent quality control with Spraymax also; hiccups during spraying and inconsistent spray pattern. 1 of every 3 cans seemed to spray good this year.

#1729 1 year ago

I've done a gloss finish cabinet. Never again. Not because it looks bad, but it looks wrong. Matte or semi gloss on a machine looks much better, and I like how they contrast with gloss decals.

1 month later
#1762 1 year ago

The Meguiars G3500 is a very good alternative to a standalone dual action unit. For $50, you attach it to your cordless drill. The compound/polishing/waxing pads will cost another $50. Just finished a Spaymax clearcoated playfield with it. Took out all the fine scratches with ease. And just so much cheaper than a standalone unit. The compounding pads are thick and resistant to tearing up, which is nice when using on a playfield because of all the bulb holes that pads sink into and shred apart.

91ruVIZ6-RL._AC_SL1500_ (resized).jpg91ruVIZ6-RL._AC_SL1500_ (resized).jpg

#1765 1 year ago

Why do you have both a standalone DA and this DA drill attachment?

#1768 1 year ago

But the Meguiar's unit replaces the standalone unit entirely. Cordless portability and small form factor is a benefit. Standalone unit probably better for doing vehicles on a regular basis.

6 months later
#1779 10 months ago

Your finger might have been hovering over the spray path when pressing down on the nozzle, and causing droplets?

2 months later
#1836 7 months ago

For playfields these cans are just much more convenient than a HVLP. I wanted to go HVLP, but I got the spraycan learning curve down now where these just work perfectly for smaller projects such as playfields. And those 3 pack cans aren't any cheaper than Spraymax:

ebay.com link: itm

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