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Stern Electronics, 1981You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider A_Bord.
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Sprayed my first can of Spraymax 2k today. Outdoors Breathe-Cool PPE (https://www.turbineproducts.com/brands/Breathe%252dCool.html). Hood was pressurized but when I sprayed I could still catch a whiff of the stuff - kinda sweetish smelling. @semicolin, is there a test to make sure I'm safe? I don't want to spray again until I know I'm not breathing this stuff. I didn't get the supplied air hood to get halfway protected.
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:Any chance the turbine intake was picking up the over spray from the Spraymax 2K? That is my worry with those systems is the inlet is grabbing whatever is around it.
Yeah, that is very possible. It was a fairly breezy day. I've got 100' of hose so I'll make sure it is further away next time around.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Rapid-prep is nearly as good as Naptha, but takes a few minutes to dry. I blow the surface off completely after applying it with compressed air.
Its a very good cleaner for automotive paint use, I use it to control fish eyes.
Its very effective:
https://rapidtac.com/rapid-prep.html
Use it very sparingly as it removes paint marker and might lift createx paint.
I use it over clearcoat, bondo and primer mostly.
For a water based cleaner, its extremely powerful. But its non toxic and you can get it where Napthta is no longer available
I have never had a fish eye since using it.
I use this stuff, too and really like it. It does lift Createx paint easily, though.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I have simple hepa type filtration for in and out with a cheap box fan.
Ever worry about sparks from the fan motor? Considering an explosion proof fan to ventilate my paint booth.
Quoted from Flipper_McGavin:What a deal. Just had to pay $30 for a single can, but it was for the Clear Glamour. Likely going the HVLP route from here on out. Not only for the cost savings, but I have been getting inconsistent quality control with Spraymax also; hiccups during spraying and inconsistent spray pattern. 1 of every 3 cans seemed to spray good this year.
I switched to HVLP this week and am not going back. Much easier to get good results and an easier timeline to work under.
At this stage I don't think this a big deal or disaster at all. Flatten any really high spots. I wouldn't bother chasing a flat surface yet. Scuff everything up, then drip clear everywhere low. It will take forever because of all the planking. Once the drips set up then recoat and sand flat with 400 grit. Hopefully that will give you a nice paint surface. I wouldn't do any paint work until that planking is flat. It will give you trouble.
Quoted from Barr993:Thanks for all of the responses. I did warm the can and start/stopped off the playfield but was not focusing on my finger pressure or flicking so maybe one of those was it.
I'm glad to hear the drops are not a big deal at this point but I never thought about filling in the missing paint/planking. That will take forever! Thanks for the heads up on that 'cause I would have went straight to repainting.
Trying to get this in before the hot/humid weather hits.
I'm sure this is mentioned elsewhere, but you can save yourself some misery and get some Shopline 661 clear and hardener for the drips. Mix up a little bit and use a glass eyedropper. Easier to clean up and cheaper than activating a can of Spraymax. Trying to spray from a can into a container is messy and a hassle. The 661 and Spraymax are compatible with each other. I have mixed them fine on projects.
You could drip out a very thin perimeter of clear around the hole and let it start to flash off while you're doing other areas. Then come back to that area and you should have a little dam l to keep it out of that area.
You can use the tip of your eyedropper to drag a thick drop where you want and thin it out so it is easier to sand flat.
Quoted from Barr993:Well my next attempt was a shit show mostly due to wind kicking up as soon as I started spraying. And I learned the hard way about dripping bubbles lol.
I'm mostly recovered now but didn't make much progress with filing in the planking paint loss. There are varying sized areas and I can't see dripping/dragging all of them. Is dripping clear then squeegee'ing a possibility?
And can I do a drip session by itself, sand then go to repaint or does a drip always have to go with a spray to even everything out?
Sorry to hear about the headaches. I had a lot of bubbles to wrangle with when I sprayed Spraymax into a cup. None of that by using Shopline and mixing in a cup. I don't know about squeegeeing. Whatever method you can use to get things flattened out faster than spraying a half dozen coats to even out the planking. Flooding a whole area by pouring from a cup is a possibility.
You don't need to spray a whole coat over drips. I've filled a few low spots after my final coat by dripping a bit, then sanding and polishing. Just make sure your surface is scuffed.
Quoted from Ollulanus:Anyone have a specific brand recommendation for a mix-it-yourself clear you've successfully used under the rattlecan 2k? I'm about to do a lightning with a god-awful mess of inserts, figure it'll work better to mix something for leveling all the cupped stuff, but plan to rattlecan over it. Just want a known quantity that won't do anything weird when hit with the spraymax.
I have used Shopline 661 with no ill effects on top of rattlecan 2k.
Quoted from jazc4:I have the Wagner version of that one. It's a little tight but does work.
I had the Wagner one rip in half due to mild wind.
Yeah, spray out the holes with your compressor and then hit the insert areas heavy with Naphtha. It will show you what you'll see when cleared. Great work so far.
Quoted from Ollulanus:Temp/humidity question:
I'd like to get a lockdown coat on this weekend so I can work on repainting - not a lot of touch up, but a ton of key lines to redo here. Looking like 60-70 degrees, humidity may be similar numbers. How long would you let it cure before putting frisket/stencils on it? I'm figuring if I just need a light coat to lock the paint the weather shouldn't be that big a factor? Would really like to get going here, I started on it way back in October but got waylaid with other stuff until it got cold here.
A week tops. Realistically 3 days should be plenty.
Quoted from Ollulanus:Anyone ever used this stuff on Reese rails?
Quoted from bigguybbr:I did it on my space mission resto. Worked great.
Same here. I clear coated the rails on my Moulin Rouge. Would do it again.
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Newcastle, OK