(Topic ID: 109931)

The SprayMax 2K Auto Clear in a Can Club!


By Curbfeeler

6 years ago



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There are 1143 posts in this topic. You are on page 9 of 23.
#401 3 years ago

I agree, looks like the clear repelled on some contaminant.

Sand as much as you can and respray. Good thing you bought 4 cans!

Your next coat will most likely need heavy sanding as well. Good luck, it's not catastrophic.

#402 3 years ago

I'd try spraying on a test surface that has the MX-8000 and another part of the surface that hasn't. I haven't heard of anything that does a good job at removing silicone. Could be that the MX is the contaminant. Better figure it out right away.

#403 3 years ago

Yeah, don't use anything else than naphta moving forward. Sand, wipe with naphta, spray.

#404 3 years ago

By the way, I'm looking at the gallery of this thread again and I see a lot of failed jobs. People looking for answers. That's fine. Do not get scared though, this would happen with regular 2 PAC shot with a gun as well. It makes it looks like a roll of dice.

Even though expensive, Spraymax is a great product and so easy and convenient to use.

#405 3 years ago

Thanks for the replies. I will keep at!

I'll re sand tomorrow with 600 and then respray.
Yea hope those cans get here quick, and the right ones. If not I can go to napa and grab another can.

Thanks everyone.

#406 3 years ago
Quoted from lb1:

I'd try spraying on a test surface that has the MX-8000 and another part of the surface that hasn't. I haven't heard of anything that does a good job at removing silicone. Could be that the MX is the contaminant. Better figure it out right away.

I just looked at the info for MX-8000. According to the SDS, it's composed of 100% VM&P Naphtha. No point of even using it if you already have VM&P Naphtha.

#407 3 years ago
Quoted from Wickedbass:

Thanks for the replies. I will keep at!
I'll re sand tomorrow with 600 and then respray.
Yea hope those cans get here quick, and the right ones. If not I can go to napa and grab another can.
Thanks everyone.

Yes that's defiantly contamination you can clearly see the separation, Its not your fault it's so hard to tell if your playfield has been Pledged or silicone sprayed or even varnished by an operator for location at some point and they did that well into the 90's. When you wipe it down with naptha it will do a few things aside from removing grease and wax, it shows you for a glimpse what the next coat of clear will look like. If you have deep scratches that need to be fine sanded they will show threw the water blob, I have seen it sort of repel showing silicone spots too. The naptha solution will kind of break up into smaller blobs.

You have a few options here, first you can sand it out near completely and try and pool some 2-part in there but your going to have a hell of a time trying to feather that in and look right.

The other option is to keep spraying into it , sand it down with 1,500 grit and try and smooth out the humps and mask around it leaving a boarder and try and feather it out. That's the route I would take personally, you'll level it all off after a 6-7 coats sanding between coats with 1,500-2,000 grit.

#408 3 years ago

I recently had a nasty contamination streak/area and the spray, pray, and sand method worked after 4-5 coats. Sand and clean it well before the 2nd coat. The following layers will progressively get better with sanding between coats.

#409 3 years ago

Update:
Sanded with 1500 this morning
Cleaned with naptha
Sprayed a light coat
Rinse repeat for 2 light coats.
Just now hit it with a heavier coat, and really starting to look good.
So far I have a one and half cans used. I expect another half can or a little more.
But looking great!
20170831_133419 (resized).jpg

#410 3 years ago
Quoted from Wickedbass:

I expect another half can or a little more.

Don't be shy. A wet coat is close to a full can.

#411 3 years ago
Quoted from Plumonium:

Don't be shy. A wet coat is close to a full can.

Sounds good. I'll wait till tomorrow, sand again and toss on a heavy coat. Looks I'll be running to buy another can

#412 3 years ago
Quoted from Wickedbass:

Update:
Sanded with 1500 this morning
Cleaned with naptha
Sprayed a light coat
Rinse repeat for 2 light coats.
Just now hit it with a heavier coat, and really starting to look good.
So far I have a one and half cans used. I expect another half can or a little more.
But looking great!

Impressive recovery!!!

#413 3 years ago

nice save.

#415 3 years ago
Quoted from Skins:

I don't think it's application technique. The reason I say contamination is the way the voids of clear go straight to the playfield. Think how oil displaces water. Same idea. The contaminate isn't allowing the clear to flow over it.
This is, albeit heavy, orange peel. The clear coats the entire surface but is wavy.

That's not how yours looks. This is how yours looks. This is contamination.
I could be wrong but that was my first impression when I saw your picture.

I had that contamination on a Space shuttle field. A trick that I found was that if you take a brass wire brush and scrub the contaminated area in a circular motion while the clear is still wet the area smooths out like it should, then you can continue applying clear

#416 3 years ago

Great news. My cans arrived today.

All are 2k clear glamour. $15 per can!!

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#417 3 years ago
Quoted from Wickedbass:

Great news. My cans arrived today.
All are 2k clear glamour. $15 per can!!

Which seller did you end up using?

I found out a few days ago that these things have a definite shelf life. I tried activating a can that I had from a couple years ago and it was a dud.

#418 3 years ago
Quoted from AMBoggs:

Which seller did you end up using?
I found out a few days ago that these things have a definite shelf life. I tried activating a can that I had from a couple years ago and it was a dud.

All cans are stamped 6 22 17
A assume that it the canned date not the experation date

Seller was TCP global

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#419 3 years ago
Quoted from Wickedbass:

All cans are stamped 6 22 17
A assume that it the canned date not the experation date
Seller was TCP global

Yes, that should be the canned date. It isn't supposed to last threee years. Mine didn't make it that long. Fresher is probsbly always better in this case.

#420 3 years ago

I learned a lesson on my first Sinbad Playfield (which will probably be re-themed). I got a LOT of orange peel. Boo!

But I learned something!

Putting on my base coat on my replacement Sinbad Playfield,the results were a LOT better!

1) I put the can a lot closer (about 6" from playfield - that seemed really close to me originally, but was one of the issues I think that results in orange peel on playfield 2
2) Was a bit more generous with the paint application. When people describe a 'base coat' prior to touch-ups, they seem to imply a 'thin coat' of clear - not sure what a 'thin coat' means to this newb, but I laid it on a bit thicker this time.
3) Did one coat. Waited 10 minutes (the 'flash time') and laid down a second.

Results were good for a first base coat. And breathing a sigh of relief there was no silicone or other unfortunate reactions (I cleaned with the traditional alcohol/ME and naptha approach, etc...).

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#421 3 years ago
Quoted from quinntopia:

3) Did one coat. Waited 10 minutes (the 'flash time') and laid down a second.

No sanding between coats, huh?

#422 3 years ago
Quoted from sudsy7:

No sanding between coats, huh?

Not when the material is still soft and you're only waiting for it to flash off. The next coat softens the previously flashed off coating. Only when it's cured do you need to sand before coating again.

Looks good OP. Glad you got it sorted out.

#423 3 years ago

Sanding between coats is a must in my opinion it's a constant leveling process that's how you achieve a crystal clear finish with a high build of clear. Flash off time for this stuff is 15min, I allow 1-3 hours (depending on the humidity) for each coat to dry. Once it's passed the "fingernail test" I will sand it with 1,500 grit, as I move to the last few coats I will sand it with 2,000 grit between coats and the final sanding 24 hours later is wet sanding with 2,000 grit.

http://www.spraymax.com/en/products/product/clear-coats-and-spot-blender/2k-clear-coat/

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#424 3 years ago
Quoted from gmkalos:

Sanding between coats is a must in my opinion it's a constant leveling process that's how you achieve a crystal clear finish with a high build of clear. Flash off time for this stuff is 15min, I allow 1-3 hours (depending on the humidity) for each coat to dry. Once it's passed the "fingernail test" I will sand it with 1,500 grit, as I move to the last few coats I will sand it with 2,000 grit between coats and the final sanding 24 hours later is wet sanding with 2,000 grit.
http://www.spraymax.com/en/products/product/clear-coats-and-spot-blender/2k-clear-coat/

I'm not sure if your post was in response to mine but I was responding to this:

Quoted from sudsy7:

No sanding between coats, huh?

Which he's was asking about this:

Quoted from quinntopia:

3) Did one coat. Waited 10 minutes (the 'flash time') and laid down a second.

Which is the correct for doing two coats at one time and was what I stated in my reply.

The TDS for the link you provided confirms as much.
IMG_3028 (resized).PNG

Now I agree, any additional coats once it has started to cure will require waiting 24hrs and then sanding before recoating; but to do multiple coats at one time only requires waiting for it to flash off.

#425 3 years ago

^^^ Right that's what I got too just wanted to make sure, I talked earlier in this thread about how I spray 4-5 "heavy" coats and when doing that I may make 2-3 complete passes over the entire playfield inter-lapping my spray lines to get the desired heavy coat. Usually I will wait about 5-8min before making another pas on the playfield still keeping the clear coat i'm laying down somewhat wet. You defiantly want to be liberal with this stuff. It really depends on the temperature and humidity your spraying in too. I sand 1-3 hours after laying down those coats between my 4-5 heavy coats, but I have an controlled environment usually at about 85° essentially baking the coat so that I can block it out to re-coat faster.

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#426 3 years ago

I just finished a Williams Klondike with SM2K. It's great stuff!

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#427 3 years ago

Looks very nice, good job!

#428 3 years ago

Looks great. What was you polishing method?

Finished final coat on the Hollywood heat.
Came out Great!
20170902_213244 (resized).jpg

#429 3 years ago

Those both look great

#430 3 years ago

After the usual sandpaper grades, I finished off with 3M rubbing compound, 3M fine and ultra-fine machine polish.

#431 3 years ago

Thanks.

How long till I can start assembling this thing? Not to play it just get it back together.

Thanks

#432 3 years ago

After it's all polished, I start putting it back together. I'm not in any hurry, so it may take a few days before its done and ready to play.

#433 3 years ago
Quoted from Wickedbass:

Thanks.
How long till I can start assembling this thing? Not to play it just get it back together.
Thanks

Even after a few weeks the clear will still be soft. Anything screwed to the top side will leave a mark. Longer you wait, the better.

My playfield was quite planked and even if it looked like glass after polish, the clear continued to shrink and now I can see marks of the clear continuing to sink into the wood.

In my case, it would have been better to wait 2-3 weeks, even more before doing the final coat. Kruzman waits 2-3 weeks before each coat and does 4. Letting the clear cure and shrink. Now would have been a good time for me to do my last coat but I did not know and really wanted to move forward.

#434 3 years ago

Putting the final coat on my buccanneer and I got some pretty nasty cloudy/milky looking areas.
Any ideas what caused this? Think sanding and buffing will cure It? Ugh!
You see the 6 nice and clear, 4,5 Not so much

20170905_130658 (resized).jpg

#435 3 years ago

My guess would be temp/humidity. What were the environmental conditions when applying and when it was curing?

#436 3 years ago
Quoted from Skins:

My guess would be temp/humidity. What were the environmental conditions when applying and when it was curing?

That pic was taken immediately after spraying. Its 80 degrees out, a little humid but not sure exactly.
Will it cure clear? I'll take a pic in a couple hours

#437 3 years ago

It clouds up when it is put down thick. It should clear up when it dries.

#438 3 years ago

I am looking on the SprayMax site.

They state coverage as: Approx. 0.5 – 0.75 m^2 / spray can at approx. 30 – 50 μm dry film thickness

A standard playfield is 0.55m^2 so seems that one can should do one playfield?

#439 3 years ago
Quoted from dr_nybble:

I am looking on the SprayMax site.
They state coverage as: Approx. 0.5 – 0.75 m^2 / spray can at approx. 30 – 50 μm dry film thickness
A standard playfield is 0.55m^2 so seems that one can should do one playfield?

I guess that would work if the can went on smoothly perfect conditions ect.. For me however I end doing lots of sanding to fix my f-ups

#440 3 years ago
Quoted from Wickedbass:

I guess that would work if the can went on smoothly perfect conditions ect.. For me however I end doing lots of sanding to fix my f-ups

I can relate! I am repainting an EM backbox head, so far I have sanded off each side once. That is an improvement over my first time repainting though!

#441 3 years ago
Quoted from Wickedbass:

Putting the final coat on my buccanneer and I got some pretty nasty cloudy/milky looking areas.
Any ideas what caused this?

I had clouded spots where I filled a few low spot using an eye dropper. So I say yes to too thick of material.

#442 3 years ago

Great news. Cured crystal clear. Looks like I have a little more work to do around the inserts. Time to break out the dropper? Or do you guys think a heavy coat will fill it?

20170906_112817 (resized).jpg

#443 3 years ago
Quoted from cd1954:

I just finished a Williams Klondike with SM2K. It's great stuff!

Looks really great! I have a Williams OXO planned for later! I think these older playfields look amazing with a fresh clear!

#444 3 years ago

Well...darn. Not only do we have wildfires that are sprinkling ash all over the Northwest (a but surreal!), but the humidity is not forecast to be below 60% for several days - I have a short window maybe today - otherwise not until Monday and of course I'll be travelling for work that week. Ready to clear and having to wait on weather is a real pain!

Screen Shot 2017-09-06 at 10.37.58 AM (resized).png

#445 3 years ago
Quoted from Plumonium:

Even after a few weeks the clear will still be soft. Anything screwed to the top side will leave a mark. Longer you wait, the better.
My playfield was quite planked and even if it looked like glass after polish, the clear continued to shrink and now I can see marks of the clear continuing to sink into the wood.
In my case, it would have been better to wait 2-3 weeks, even more before doing the final coat. Kruzman waits 2-3 weeks before each coat and does 4. Letting the clear cure and shrink. Now would have been a good time for me to do my last coat but I did not know and really wanted to move forward.

That seems like really good advice. I'm going to attempt to follow this plan myself. Of course, in 2-3 weeks it will be almost October and I may not have another 70 degree day here in Seattle until next May! LOL

#446 3 years ago
Quoted from quinntopia:

but the humidity is not forecast to be below 60% for several days -

Humidity is mostly a factor for drying time but does not impact adversely the quality of the clear job. Temp is more critical imho.

#447 3 years ago
Quoted from Plumonium:

Humidity is mostly a factor for drying time but does not impact adversely the quality of the clear job. Temp is more critical imho.

Thanks Plu! I thought I had read somewhere about humidity potentially causing some issues. Good news is that it dropped to 51% and I was able to shoot a can and a half getting three good applications. Whew! Seems to have turned out well. This locks in my airbrush layers, next is key lining and minor touch ups. After that another coat of clear, then decals, then final coat!

IMG_6038 (resized).JPG

#448 3 years ago
Quoted from quinntopia:

Thanks Plu! I thought I had read somewhere about humidity potentially causing some issues. Good news is that it dropped to 51% and I was able to shoot a can and a half getting three good applications. Whew! Seems to have turned out well. This locks in my airbrush layers, next is key lining and minor touch ups. After that another coat of clear, then decals, then final coat!

Looking great!

I see you have star rollovers inserted backwards for painting. Do those stay in for all coats or just the earlier coats? What is your strategy there?

#449 3 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Looking great!
I see you have star rollovers inserted backwards for painting. Do those stay in for all coats or just the earlier coats? What is your strategy there?

I plan to keep them in for all coats...I haven't really read anywhere that this is a bad thing or any warnings from Vid or others that recommend this. So far, it hasn't caused any issues! I do take care in removing them to ensure I don't also take up any of the clear around them.

#450 3 years ago

How long do you wait before rocking them out? Do you pull them right away, or do you wait after the clear flashes or do you leave them in till the clear is hardened? I am about a day away from clearing so I want to do this right! Thanks!

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