Well I am happy to report back that there does not appear to have been any kind of reaction with the Omni Clear. The upper playfield I did looks pretty good. There was no kind of reaction or bubbles in the finish after 24 hours. I went ahead and wet sanded it from 600 grit clear down to 2000 girt to get the dust out of the finish, and it looks fine. I still don't have a buffer, so it may be a few weeks before I do a final polish on the playfield.

Anyone here tried working with the SprayMax 1k? I have a lot of touch-ups airbrushing on my Sinbad playfield, and to keep this stage of the process moving, I am using the SprayMax 1k when needed between airbrush (Createx coats).

I have read that putting the 2k on top of the 1k (My plan when all touch ups are complete) is totally fine.

Anyone have any thoughts or experience on this?

UPDATE: Do not use acrylic paints between layers of 1k. The 1k layer underneath the acrylic paint will react with the 1k top coat on your acrylic and cause the acrylic paint to wrinkle. See my topic on my Sinbad Restoration for more details on this.

I agree about the silicone contamination. Many playfield waxes contain silicones so this can cause great problems. You can add a special additive to the 2K to avoid fish eyes.

Hi, I once tried 2K over 1K and it was a disaster. The chemicals of 2K seem to solve the 1K layer. The surface got wrinkled and brown
like my grandmother's skin.

Wow. That's frightening. I might change my plan. I think earlier in this topic I read that it's fine, but now I'm rethinking that plan.

I am having issues with some 1k wrinkling my air-brushed Createx paint (just some colors, not all) which I suspect might be due too 1) too much 1k being sprayed (which allows the solvent enough time to eat into the acrylic) and/or not fully cured acrylic paint containing too much moisture reacting with the 1k as well.

I have also learned the hard way that light coats of paint/clear is always best (Unless you are doing the last heavy coat clear).
Too much stuff can go wrong when you put on to much at once.

To my opinion, the safest thing to do is always use polyurethane paint and polyurethane clear coat (solvent based). These products match best with the original products used on EM pinballs. I have been restoring pinballs for 25 years and these products never disappointed me.

Fyi:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration/page/16#post-1667109

It does not sound like something to recommend. Auto clear is what is best and used on today's playfield a.

Hi Fyi, what kind of brand auto clear do you use?

I agree 2K clear is very good and has a hard surface. I used it a lot. But it can cause problems with some older types of clear coats and inks.

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/777847O/isocyanates-3m-techupdate.pdf

The odour threshold for isocyanates, i.e. the level at which an individual can smell
an isocyanate, is typically higher than the allowed exposure limits. In other words, if
a painter smells the sweet, fruity, pungent odour of an isocyanate, they are probably
already overexposed. That is why the recommended respiratory protection for
employees spraying isocyanates is a supplied air respirator and not an air purifying
respirator (i.e. filter cartridge style).

I finished clearing my first playfield using SprayMax 2k today.

It is a Pinbot that needed paint touch-up after removing the factory mylar.

Overall I love the product. It is as good as it gets and it's not messy. On the expensive side but totally worth it.

I'll spare myself rewriting the whole thing again and direct you to my restoration thread for details on each steps, it starts about here.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinbot-restoration-underway/page/3#post-3831131

Here some pictures to tell the story, it did not go without problems. But the end result looks pretty darn good.

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Final coat.

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Looks great indeed!! well done

Not sure this is the right place for this but I wanted to share my experience here since this comes up occasionally and someone might be able to learn from my mistake.

With the obvious dangers of Spraymax 2k, I decided to only use 2k on my topcoat and use the Spraymax 1k (somewhat less toxic and terrifying to use) as the basis for my sealing coats between Createx air-brush touch ups.

DON'T DO THIS! IT will not work!

What I discovered the hard way is that when you have the Spraymax 1k as a base, then apply Createx (and I have no reason to doubt any other brand) touch ups and THEN seal it with a top coat of the SM 1k it will cause your beautiful acyrilic touch ups to wrinkle like a California Raisin that spent too much time in the pool.

The photos here show you what the result looks like.

I did some more testing to discover this the hard way which you can read more detail on in my Sinbad Restoration post:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sinbad-restoration/page/2#post-3868603

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Ouch....that sux man.

That is just painful to see... thanks for the warning.

I've been wanting to try this product for quite a long time. I decided to give it a practice run on a scrap playfield I had on the wall in the garage in less than perfect condition's so I could really get a feel for the product. I am planning on using this playfield for a coffee table so I did not do any touchups except for around inserts to seal them. First of all I put all the inserts back in and made sure to NOT make them all level. Next I used a paint pen to do key lines around inserts. The next day (today) I used naptha and a sponge to give the playfield a heavy cleaning. Used a tak cloth and got ready to try spraymax. The temp was 68f and the humidity was 62%. I used the high gloss and did 2 heavy coats 20 mins apart with no sanding in between. 1 full can. I forgot to take photos after the first coat but here's how it looks 1 hour after using.

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Looks nice and grimy and glossy lol, you got a lot of orange peel you need to sand between coats.

I know. I see that. Lol. Glad it's not going in a machine. If I use the product again on a real playfield I will follow your above advice from previous posts. The ones that you have done turned out awesome. I will still wet sand buff and polish and hope that some of it goes away but either way it will make a good coffee table. Lol.

ya sweep the floor good. I like to wet it down with the hose. it helps keep the dust from getting kicked up walking around and floating around and landing on your playfield.

Anyone used a traditional 2 pac with SprayMax 2k?

Mainly for filling in cupped inserts with an eye dropper. It seems like the method of spraying SM2k into a jar and then using the dropped to fill cupped inserts has caused a few folks to get bubbles in their filled inserts. I had this same issue with my failed SM1k 'test', and as I prepare to fix/clear another playfield, I really want to avoid bubbles in the cupped inserts as its a real pain to fix those.

So I'm wondering if there is a 2 Pac (traditional mixing for a traditional spray job) that plays nice with SprayMax 2k?

If anyone has figured out a way to get SprayMax out (bubble-free) for filling inserts, please let us know!
On my next SprayMax adventure (a week or two from now), I will be trying out a few methods to get the liquid out without adding any air bubbles. I will definitely post if I come up with something useful!
Edit - This post was referring to the process of collecting the clear in a secondary container for later filling of cupped inserts with a glass eyedropper. Collecting the clear from an aerosol can without entraining air bubbles is a real challenge!

Did you guys leave the filled spot dry or shot clear over top soon after? I think it needs a longer time to cure and let all the air out.

You could build a small vacuum chamber and use that to degas it, that should get rid of the bubbles.

If you don't build a vacuum chamber, make friends with your local HS science teacher, chances are they have one.

Eye dropper with conventional clear is probably still the most practical approach.

I had the issue with Spraymax 1k. While a different product, I tried the same "spray in jar' trick and got disastrous results in my inserts (but not all of them: a couple turned out okay). When I read about the same problem others had with SM2K I thought it might be the same propellants used in both products.

Anyway, I didn't spray anything over my inserts after the bubbles appeared as it was pretty horrendous.

Needless to say, this is one he!! I don't want to repeat again. Buying a couple cans of regular 2 pac is a small price to pay to avoid bubbles!

So....anyone have any recommendations for a 2 pac that works with Spraymax?

Good to know. I had the same problems, some spot turned out OK, some not so good.

I'm sure most 2pac would work. Especially if you let it cure between applications.

I eyedroppered in some 2PAC yesterday (brand called "Euroclear"). For under $50 this seems like a good insurance measure to avoid bubbles with Spraymax sprayed in jar technique.

Below are photo's comparing the disaster I had with Spraymax 1k to fill inserts (these are two different playfields BTW) to how the 'real' 2PAC looks 24 hours later. I'm going to wait until next weekend to put my sealing coat on the playfield so I can begin airbrrush and touchups. I'll update this thread with my results.

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The colours on your current playfield are much more vibrant.Hope it goes well!!!

I just love this stuff another killer clear job on a Fire Power CPR gold now CPR platinum lol, its noticeably glossier than 2-pac that's for sure!

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What is better than 2-PAC? Spraymax 2K is 2-PAC.

I know I meant like compared two your professional grade clears, it's that secret resin SM2K formula lol.

One thing I did this time was to clear 5-6 coats over a paper plate. I wanted to test the elastic qualities of this stuff and see if it would crack like a acrylic heavy clear would. After letting it cure for more than 24 hours I can say with all certainly it is quite flexible you can even fold it and cut it without cracking!

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Wow! Not a crack to be seen. Awesome. Playfield looks great also.

How did you prep your CPR playfield?

1 full can on the playfield?

Forget the playfield prep. How did you prep the paper plate?

I use 2 cans total about 75% out of each can, while I've run the cans out and not experienced splatter yet I'm not willing to risk it on a $1,000 playfield lol. I detailed my prep process in earlier posts in this thread, sand the existing CPR clear with 1,500 grit then wipe with naphtha and a tac cloth right before you're going to spray.

2 additional cans, that's a lot of clear no?

Not really because remember I don't spray out the rest of the can on the pf for fear of low pressure splatter, so it's like a can and a half in total. Another reason I like this stuff, no water separator needed and you get a perfect uncontaminated mix in the can! If I were doing a ton of these things I would switch to a traditional 2 part clear system and spray with a gun. But you can't buy the two components of SM2K out of the can from the manufacturer? So I would be back to square one looking for a good 2-pac clear equal to this particular product, and with all this ball dimpling on old and new CPR playfields and older Varathane jobs you can only go off experience with a known clear coat system that works, some are soft and some are hard its Goldie lox lol.

Yes !! my local napa carries them. $20.
Can order more and have them in two days if needed.
And the weather is perfect, time to prep.
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Amazon appears to have 2 packs for $26 including free shipping... though shipping times appear to be slower because not PRIME.

https://www.amazon.com/Spray-High-Gloss-Clearcoat-Aerosol/dp/B00W2D806Y/ref=sr_1_1

duplicate

I looked into that same item about a month ago. The single pack is for 2K clear, but the double was for 1K according to the pictures. They now have one picture of 2k and the rest of 1K for the double pack option. You better ask exactly what you are getting!!!

Here in Canada they are 30$

Ordered a 4 pac! Will let you know, my confirmation email says 368 0061. So we will see.

Who likes oranges?
First coat on Hollywood Heat.
Plan is to let it dry, sand and respray?
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That looks more like contamination than orange peel.

Silicon?

Hmm can't imagine what. So I sanded it well with 600 grit, naptha, then used mx-8000 (removes silicone) before i sprayed.

Could it be I just suck at spraying, was I to close or to far?

I don't think it's application technique. The reason I say contamination is the way the voids of clear go straight to the playfield. Think how oil displaces water. Same idea. The contaminate isn't allowing the clear to flow over it.
This is, albeit heavy, orange peel. The clear coats the entire surface but is wavy.
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That's not how yours looks. This is how yours looks. This is contamination. IMG_2971 (resized).JPG

I could be wrong but that was my first impression when I saw your picture.