Hello,
what type of respirator cartridges have you guys used? I have OVP95 rated ones from Home Depot and could definitely smell the clear. Wondering if I have the wrong cartridges or if the seal wasn't tight enough with my face.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00079FOK0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00

Cheap & works great.

This is OV/P95 rating as well. So that would answer my question about the smell issue being an air-tight seal vs the wrong kind of cartridges.

When I first started using Spraymax, I wouldn't get any bubbles, but I've encountered the problem during my last few playfields as well. After spraying in a glass jar I usually wait a few minutes, then I just "pop" any bubbles with the eye dropper while I am filling the area and it turns out fine.

Thank you for confirming that it is just not me.
I am in contact with the manufacturer too hear if/what they have changed.
Where are you from? (They asked me)
Do you "pop" with a needle or the dropper?

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Whridlsoncestood, how many coats or cans? Looks beautiful!

2.5 cans. 4 coats I think. 1st and 2nd were thick to fix a lot of planning in the wood. Sanding a lot inbetween. Last coat laid very flat. Didn't even wetsand/buff. Was happy with the results for this game without.

Thanks. I applied two cans, very thick and was happy with the results.

Did a small correction, then tried to spray the remainder of a recently popped can and it went on too dry and it lost luster.

I ordered another two cans, but figure one should be enough to get it back to a nice finish.

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Has anyone tried the semi matte or matte finishes of Spraymax? I thought about toning down a too glossy cabinet redecal with the semi-matte. I ordered a can or two of it, so hopefully it will go over cabinet decals without damaging. Figure I will try a small test area first.

make sure you see my post on the first page about spraying over decals and overlays.

Is there any guidance related to humidity? I live in Florida and the humidity will be very high for the next 4 months or so. I'd like to clear coat my Space Mission now, but don't want to ruin it for humidity reasons. My lack of skill is a different problem.

First pass on my Whitewater project. Next fill the inserts, sand and repeat.

I sprayd on back porch. 90 degrees, 90% humidity. Looks awesome. PPE sucked though.

I'm in Edison NJ, USA
I just use the dropper. I bought my cans from R&E Paint Supply

What is "PPE"

Personal protection equipment.

Anyone use this on bare metal? I'm restoring a very old Brass national cash register. I want the brass to keep a freshly polished finish. I'm wondering how this would do sprayed directly onto brass. These brass pieces have lots detail, crevices, etc. I'm worried the clear will pool up in the details.

Does anyone know if SprayMax 2K is available in Canada (and at a reasonable price!)?

Thanks!

Just up the road from you. Here is a link.

https://www.mapleairbrushsupplies.com/collections/spray-max-2k

Thanks. It's a long road though I was hoping to pick up something locally in Vancouver what with the impending postal strike and to save money on shipping. I have a feeling that Maple Airbrush Supplies may be my only option.

A friend of mine (an experienced auto body painter) sprayed Imron (clear) on a National brass cash register I restored; it turned out great. Use multiple thin coats and that should reduce any chance of pooling.

I was able to find some locally calling around to auto paint suppliers (Industrial Finishes in Portland stocks it, if you find yourself down south). You might want to try emailing their North American office and see if they could recommend a local distributor:

http://usa.spraymax.com/index.php?id=787

https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/en/search?q=2k+glamour+high+gloss+clear&xref=

Napa Canada might carry it too.

$50 a can?!

Holy sh*t I couldn't see the price on the iPad! Cross them off the list.

That's where I get mine, and no, it aint cheap stuff!

How much was it at NAPA?

I enquired at my local store a few years ago and they had no idea what I was talking aboot.

Anyone tried brushing this stuff over a small area? I have a playfield torn down and an re-coating a shooter lane. Fully cleaned, sanded and masked for spraying. However, I have another spot on a different playfield that needs fixing, and I would like to do it at the same time. Quite frankly, I hate to go through the hassle of tearing down another playfield to mask for such a small area (between a quarter and 50 cent piece in size). Has anyone tried to spray into a metal cup and brush this with a small brush? and if so, does it flow out or show the brush marks? Only thing worse than a bad spot is a bad fix.........

Edit. Guess i should add that this other spot is in a hidden area, not in the middle of the playfield. This is why I can't spray it without a tear down, and why I would tolerate a brush touch up if it can look anywhere near decent.

Great thread.

By the way, for the Chicago folks, the Eastwood store in Alsip carries this and the Eastwood brand, which I suspect is made at the same place?

You probably be better off getting the actual clear and hardener and mixing it up separately. Vid talks some about this in his playfield restoration thread.

Yea, I know....I was trying to keep from having to buy a batch for such a small area. The shelf life on clear isn't all that great, so I didn't want to waste a can, as I rarely do playfield work. I'm wasting a can of spray Max as it is, because the shooter lane will only use a little bit. Thought maybe I could make it work, but I have already started tearing down the other field. It is a "player" game that gets a lot of play from friends and visitors, and I will probably be picking up a different playfield for it in the very near future anyway. Was just trying to extend it's life a little bit.

Ive got an NIB playfield you could use some of that "wasted" clear on lol

No problem, bring it by and we can shoot them together.

What's the best process to use if you're going to be putting down insert decals? I'm replacing all of the inserts, so I have to apply new decals. I was thinking something like:
- normal coat
-normal coat
-apply the decals
- very light/mist coat
-light coat
-as many normal coats as it takes

I want the decals to stick well and look clear, so should I not sand before applying them? But also know that I should be sanding between coats to smooth it out and help each coat stick to the previous...what do you do?

I buy them off amazon $20 a can.

That's what I did when I SM2K'd a Firepower I restored and made decals for. My experience with decals (from decades of custom painting model trains) bears that decals always look best when applied to the smoothest, cleanest, glossiest surface possible. So if you feel compelled to sand between coats, make certain you polish to glass before you decal!

Once your decals are in place, you need to seal them. A light mist coat is good to make sure you don't oversaturate and/or "burn" them. You just need to lock them down beneath an overcoat that covers the entire surface area.

The next coat over the mist will infill and bring back the smooth gloss.

At minimum you probably want two normal coats over the decal sealing mist, so that any polishing does not rub through into and remove part of the decal.

Used this to repair a shooter lane and another small spot on a different playfield. Wasted most of the can because I only needed a little bit, but both projects turned out great. Gotta say this clear coat is awesome, simple, and fast. And to answer my earlier question...yes, it can be brushed over a small area. Pay attention to all of the previous warnings, since this is some nasty stuff.....but overall I was very happy with the results.

Yes, I'm a fan of this stuff. I've clearcoated four of my machines with it, up until now.

I use the variety that has a very light elasticity, to prevent cracks or other damage from happening.

Very happy with the results. Looks great and gives perfect ball flow.
Lightning
Banzai Run
Cirqus Voltaire
TX-Sector

Some extra information on my experiences with these various playfields:

- Lightning had some problems where the first layer of Spraymax would not attach on some places of the playfield. Like the Road Show playfield on page 4, but a lot less heavy. I suspect that there was some invisible silicone or wax residue. I then cleaned these parts thouroughly with naphtha and sanded them with a heavier grit. Before applying the second coat over the playfield, I used an eye dropper to fill the spaces that remained blank. After applying the second coat, letting it dry and sanding it flat, everything was ok.

- Banzai Run has new insert decals installed. Luckily, the Spraymax did not have any negative effect these decals. I have seen somebody else's Sys11 (F14 Tomcat) though, where applying a clearcoat went horribly wrong: the sides of a lot of the insert decals started lifting badly. Be careful! Also, if you use insert decals, you will need a lot more cans of Spraymax to get your playfield nice and even.

- Cirqus Voltaire has an original Diamond Plate clearcoat, which attaches badly to playfield inserts. The result is the notorious milky inserts for which this title is known. Applying a new (Spraymax) clearcoat to this game may destabilize the existing Diamond Plate clearcoat. This may result in milky inserts once you start playing the game. To prevent this, I also added a Makrolon playfield protector to this title.

- TX-Sector had quite a lot of playfield damage before I cleared the game. Partly because of mylar removal. I touched up this damage with Revell Aqua Color paint. My experience is that this paint is safe to use in combination with Spraymax, because it doesn't react with it. Another big plus is that the clearcoat makes touch-ups much less noticable. Colors seem to blend in with each other very well.

Next in line is my Fireball II. After that, Haunted House, Flash Gordon and Bram Stoker's Dracula will probably follow.

Just received 3 cans of SprayMax 2K from www.mapleairbrushsupplies.com in AB. 29 CAD per can, $12 shipping and two days to deliver. Will shoot the stuff in a few weeks so will post some pics then. Wish me luck lol

I just picked up a can from my Ottawa http://max-auto.ca/. It was $25.40 but they had to figure out the price, it was a new product for them and they had some trouble finding it in their system.

I have seen this question asked a few times in this thread but don't recall any responses:

For a 60's EM, the gloss is a bit to much for me, has anyone tried the semi gloss aka satin or the matte SprayMax on an EM playfield?

I think you would be better off going with gloss and then knock back the shine with some high grit sandpaper or synthetic steel wool. That way you can get it right to the level of shine you want.

I purchased two cans of SprayMax about a year ago for a project pin that did not end up happening. I don't have a good space to spray this product, so I figure I should move it along to someone who can get some use out of it.

I think I paid ~$20 per can plus shipping. I will sell someone both cans for $20 total and ask that they pay whatever the shipping is to get it to them. I only want to sell both cans at once.

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I would like to put a couple of coats on my playfield this weekend, but don't want to mess it up. In the morning the temperature starts out in the mid 70's with humidity in the high 90's. As the day goes on the temperature rises to around 90 with humidity in the mid 70's. I will have to paint in the garage with the door open so I can't control the environment. Is there a sweet spot for temperature and humidity for this product? I've struggled to this point with filling in my cupped inserts and really need this next and last step to go smoothly. Is there a temperature or humidity limit?

I prefer cooler to warmer. I have used this in July at midday and it was a mistake. Since this is a chemical reaction, the warm temp sped up the reaction to the point that micro bubbles got trapped in the finish and I had to sand them off and start over.

Its good to have products like this available to people without an HVLP sprayer.