(Topic ID: 109931)

The SprayMax 2K Auto Clear in a Can Club!

By Curbfeeler

9 years ago


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  • 1,884 posts
  • 234 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 days ago by RGarriott
  • Topic is favorited by 358 Pinsiders

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There are 1,884 posts in this topic. You are on page 38 of 38.
#1851 84 days ago
Quoted from jazc4:

I have the Wagner version of that one. It's a little tight but does work.

I had the Wagner one rip in half due to mild wind.

#1852 84 days ago
Quoted from A_Bord:

I had the Wagner one rip in half due to mild wind.

yeah they are inexpensive for that reason. Mine definitely took a few hits in some higher wind.

#1853 84 days ago
Quoted from jazc4:

yeah they are inexpensive for that reason. Mine definitely took a few hits in some higher wind.

Yeah, I was thinking of opening up the garage and pitching the tent a couple feet in to mitigate any unexpected wind a bit

#1854 79 days ago
Quoted from jazc4:

I have the Wagner version of that one. It's a little tight but does work.

This one (large)? https://www.amazon.com/HomeRight-Shelter-C900038-Portable-Painting/dp/B011L3DVVO/ref=dp_prsubs_sccl_2/135-1702972-0955326

#1856 77 days ago

Here is a quick clear job that just got finished with a little help from some friends.

b21 (resized).JPGb21 (resized).JPGb22 (resized).JPGb22 (resized).JPGb23 (resized).JPGb23 (resized).JPGb24 (resized).JPGb24 (resized).JPGb25 (resized).JPGb25 (resized).JPGb26 (resized).JPGb26 (resized).JPG
#1857 76 days ago
Quoted from ripple:

Here is a quick clear job that just got finished with a little help from some friends.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Shiny. Are you going to level the inserts next?

#1858 76 days ago
Quoted from radium:

Are you going to level the inserts next?

No, just a quick job to preserve the art for future generations.

#1859 76 days ago
Quoted from radium:

Shiny. Are you going to level the inserts next?

.

1 week later
#1860 63 days ago

So this went south real quick. After the failure I started to read here via search for “bubbles” and didn’t really read anything about a success story. I used a plastic pipette and I think there was too much air transfer, but here I’ve seen basically negative reviews.
Could a guy just use a plastic spoon so you aren’t agitating the 2k so much, or is it just a reaction with the inserts?
The PF was very clean as this was the only issue.

Next up I’m going to try these little sanding balls unless there’s a better way.

IMG_9919 (resized).jpegIMG_9919 (resized).jpegIMG_9921 (resized).jpegIMG_9921 (resized).jpegIMG_9922 (resized).jpegIMG_9922 (resized).jpegIMG_9927 (resized).jpegIMG_9927 (resized).jpeg
1 week later
#1861 51 days ago

So I've tried to digest the advice here and make a plan for how I would lay down some clear before starting touchups on one playfield. Considering the complexity of using this stuff and amount of reading you need to do, I can only imagine how many people have just used this stuff like it's regular spraypaint.

If I'm reading this correctly, if I spray outside in a PVC pipe "spraybooth" wearing a full mask, new 3M 60291 cartridges, Tyvek suit, etc. and I only use the cartridges for a couple of coats in less than 30 minutes that would be safe? What gloves should I wear? Rubber or nitrile?

Also, what precautions do you need to take when sanding this stuff flat later (maybe I missed this somewhere)?

#1862 51 days ago
Quoted from vipe155:

So I've tried to digest the advice here and make a plan for how I would lay down some clear before starting touchups on one playfield. Considering the complexity of using this stuff and amount of reading you need to do, I can only imagine how many people have just used this stuff like it's regular spraypaint.
If I'm reading this correctly, if I spray outside in a PVC pipe "spraybooth" wearing a full mask, new 3M 60291 cartridges, Tyvek suit, etc. and I only use the cartridges for a couple of coats in less than 30 minutes that would be safe? What gloves should I wear? Rubber or nitrile?
Also, what precautions do you need to take when sanding this stuff flat later (maybe I missed this somewhere)?

Cartridges are good for 40 hours of exposure tp P2K.
Nitrile gloves work really well.

#1863 51 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Cartridges are good for 40 hours of exposure tp P2K.
Nitrile gloves work really well.

Quoted from semicolin:

For high-level OV, specifically isocyanates, in an enclosed spray area such as a room or spray tent it goes down to 15-30 minutes as per 3M filter guides.

This is what was stated earlier about the cartridges not lasting very long with iso exposure.

2 weeks later
#1864 36 days ago

I have now used 3 cans and the coverage is great, but there are just a few bubble spots left. I actually went real proud on the inserts with the end of my third can with hopes of it filling in the extra tiny bubbles. I have tried so hard to keep fixing the damn bubbles and if I ever do this again, I’m buying the 2pac to fill inserts cause using the can sprayed into a cup is nothing but a headache.

So my question for the people who have used this 2K method all these years…..

Can I leave the sanding dust in the tiny holes and spray one more thick coat?

I know this sounds stupid, but if I leave the dust it will be flat and there for not sag into them and possibly absorb and not be fully white dots (at this point I almost don’t care).

These pics are of a 600 sand this morning quick. I still have more inserts and then I’ll wet block the whole thing with 800/1000 and spray again.

IMG_0218 (resized).jpegIMG_0218 (resized).jpegIMG_0221 (resized).jpegIMG_0221 (resized).jpegIMG_0222 (resized).jpegIMG_0222 (resized).jpegIMG_0223 (resized).jpegIMG_0223 (resized).jpeg
#1865 36 days ago

I think you need to clean the dust out of the bubble holes.

#1866 36 days ago
Quoted from ManbearpigOG:

I’ll wet block the whole thing with 800/1000 and spray again.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Stop at 600 dont go higher before you spray, Ive mentioned this several times on your other thread, you need to leave tooth for the new layer.

#1867 36 days ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

Stop at 600 dont go higher before you spray, Ive mentioned this several times on your other thread, you need to leave tooth for the new layer.

Oh, I didn't know that 600 was the sweet spot. I went to 1000 in between my 2nd and 3rd can. I just assumed since it was still sanded it had tooth. I will only do 600 on the whole PF this round then.

I'm so over these bubbles. I was also thinking of trying some of the harbor freight epoxy that I used to secure the insert back in place. That wont bubble, be clear, is sandable, and wouldn't require me to open the next can right now. Ok idea, or bad idea?

#1868 36 days ago
Quoted from ManbearpigOG:

Oh, I didn't know that 600 was the sweet spot. I went to 1000 in between my 2nd and 3rd can. I just assumed since it was still sanded it had tooth. I will only do 600 on the whole PF this round then.
I'm so over these bubbles. I was also thinking of trying some of the harbor freight epoxy that I used to secure the insert back in place. That wont bubble, be clear, is sandable, and wouldn't require me to open the next can right now. Ok idea, or bad idea?

You’re so close on fixing them!!! Just keep wet sanding those spots they’re starting to open up now. And yeah clean that dust out of those holes. Or keep sanding until the craters start thinning away. this thing is going to look amazing!

#1869 36 days ago

Yeah, spray out the holes with your compressor and then hit the insert areas heavy with Naphtha. It will show you what you'll see when cleared. Great work so far.

#1870 36 days ago

Someone else suggested earlier in the thread,
fiberglass pens work well to clean out and add tooth to the bubble craters

https://a.co/d/dGboAZj

#1871 36 days ago
Quoted from Barr993:

Someone else suggested earlier in the thread,
fiberglass pens work well to clean out and add tooth to the bubble craters
https://a.co/d/dGboAZj

Thats really cool. I wish it showed how tiny they were, not that I need to buy more tools right now.

Quoted from A_Bord:

Yeah, spray out the holes with your compressor and then hit the insert areas heavy with Naphtha. It will show you what you'll see when cleared. Great work so far.

That's what I have been doing with the compressor and naphtha, but when I spray it never fills in all the holes. I know it needs to be level and filled in. My last hail Mary was to use part of that last can to over flow the previous bubbles and it only kind of worked.

Quoted from mrm_4:

You’re so close on fixing them!!! Just keep wet sanding those spots they’re starting to open up now. And yeah clean that dust out of those holes. Or keep sanding until the craters start thinning away. this thing is going to look amazing!

The craters have thinned and can easily be cleaned out, it's the next round of filling that I'm worried about.... jacking up the whole thing again.

#1872 36 days ago
Quoted from ManbearpigOG:

Thats really cool. I wish it showed how tiny they were, not that I need to buy more tools right now.

That's what I have been doing with the compressor and naphtha, but when I spray it never fills in all the holes. I know it needs to be level and filled in. My last hail Mary was to use part of that last can to over flow the previous bubbles and it only kind of worked.

The craters have thinned and can easily be cleaned out, it's the next round of filling that I'm worried about.... jacking up the whole thing again.

Don’t drip anymore just flood the area once you get all the holes sanded

#1873 36 days ago

The pen has glass fibers that will conform/ break/wear to the profile of the surface. I used them to clean out bubble craters just like yours.

I've since switched to 2 part clear out of a can to level to avoid the bubbles (as recommended by the Spraymax experienced folks here).

#1874 36 days ago
Quoted from Barr993:

The pen has glass fibers that will conform/ break/wear to the profile of the surface. I used them to clean out bubble craters just like yours.
I've since switched to 2 part clear out of a can to level to avoid the bubbles (as recommended by the Spraymax experienced folks here).

Oh, that’s 100% happening next time. I would have saved myself a lot of headache, stress, and soar fingers.

Quoted from mrm_4:

Don’t drip anymore just flood the area once you get all the holes sanded

Oh for real? You think it will fill them in?
It’s just the 3 left with the LED bolts by them. I didn’t do the whole PF yet, but I hit most of the center with 600 tonight.
If flooding will do it, I’m in!

IMG_0233 (resized).jpegIMG_0233 (resized).jpeg
#1875 36 days ago
Quoted from Barr993:

I've since switched to 2 part clear out of a can to level to avoid the bubbles (as recommended by the Spraymax experienced folks here).

I used one part DiamondMax when filling inserts, outstanding results.

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#1876 36 days ago

I was trying to research the Diamondmax…. after I had purchased the 2k. It seems quite expensive, but for less headache. So do you still spray 2k over the diamond?

I’m sure this won’t be the last machine I restore. It’s an enjoyable project and in the end I get to play it.

#1877 36 days ago
Quoted from ManbearpigOG:

I was trying to research the Diamondmax…. after I had purchased the 2k. It seems quite expensive, but for less headache. So do you still spray 2k over the diamond?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DMIDEMS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title

$68 a quart which is cheap if you have several playfields to do like I do. Might actually last a few dozen.

Yes you clear over it, though I plan on trying to do a whole playfield with Diamondmax, just not got around to it yet.

#1878 36 days ago
Quoted from ManbearpigOG:

Oh, that’s 100% happening next time. I would have saved myself a lot of headache, stress, and soar fingers.

Oh for real? You think it will fill them in?
It’s just the 3 left with the LED bolts by them. I didn’t do the whole PF yet, but I hit most of the center with 600 tonight.
If flooding will do it, I’m in!
[quoted image]

I know you don’t want to hear this but you need to sand them holes open more. When you wipe them with naphtha how do they look?

And by flooding I mean if you are doing a pass from left to right and it take 2 seconds with your speed… Just pause on the insert for one extra second. Do that each coat with your next can. Just giving it a little bit extra each coat so it pool a little in those areas and level out as it starts to set and flash.

What I’ve learned (because all my playfields always had cupped inserts and odd wear spots and are never flat) is the first can or 2 is just the foundation. You spray your first can to get a membrane so to say for the beauty coats.
After your first can wet sand with 600 then drip the inserts and other low spots with a separate 2 part clear coat that you mix up in a cup.
Once the puddles dry, scuff them up with 600 then start laying down your other cans until you have it looking how you like. Then start the block sanding process.
Who cares if the first can or 2 look like crap you’re just making a bed. That 3rd or 4th can is where the magic happens. Hell my freaking firepower was such a shit show it took me 9 freaking cans. But I was chasing fish eyes and burying water slide decals. Took a lot of layers.

#1879 36 days ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

I know you don’t want to hear this but you need to sand them holes open more. When you wipe them with naphtha how do they look?
And by flooding I mean if you are doing a pass from left to right and it take 2 seconds with your speed… Just pause on the insert for one extra second. Do that each coat with your next can. Just giving it a little bit extra each coat so it pool a little in those areas and level out as it starts to set and flash.
What I’ve learned (because all my playfields always had cupped inserts and odd wear spots and are never flat) is the first can or 2 is just the foundation. You spray your first can to get a membrane so to say for the beauty coats.
After your first can wet sand with 600 then drip the inserts and other low spots with a separate 2 part clear coat that you mix up in a cup.
Once the puddles dry, scuff them up with 600 then start laying down your other cans until you have it looking how you like. Then start the block sanding process.
Who cares if the first can or 2 look like crap you’re just making a bed. That 3rd or 4th can is where the magic happens. Hell my freaking firepower was such a shit show it took me 9 freaking cans. But I was chasing fish eyes and burying water slide decals. Took a lot of layers.

The 3 big ones show white dust because I didn’t run the compressor tonight. But I’m sure the holes are too tiny to flood. I know there’s still more sanding to be done

I wish I would have read that on here before I started about the 1 as a base, 2 as a base and some filling, then 3 and 4 for build up and then sand. I was also wanting to not spend the extra $70 on auto 2 part, which I should have also done that. Live and learn.

Quoted from gdonovan:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DMIDEMS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title
$68 a quart which is cheap if you have several playfields to do like I do. Might actually last a few dozen.
Yes you clear over it, though I plan on trying to do a whole playfield with Diamondmax, just not got around to it yet.

This is not the Diamondmax I was reading about.
Looking for the link it was Diamond Clear, and maybe that’s the wrong stuff, but it’s $200 a bottle.
https://vehiclepaintprosofficial.com/product/diamond-clear-16oz/

#1880 36 days ago
Quoted from ManbearpigOG:

This is not the Diamondmax I was reading about.

It's what I and others used.

2 weeks later
#1881 17 days ago

Did my first go with this last night. I think it went ok. I forgot to plug my lamp sockets....so those will need to be replaced.

There's some dust inclusions despite tacking right before spraying. I don't see fisheyes and it looks pretty smooth. We'll see how it turns out.

I'm going to sand for tooth today in a few hours around the 18hour mark, fill lows, and then do a second coat. We'll see how it goes!

PXL_20231114_053031941 (resized).jpgPXL_20231114_053031941 (resized).jpgPXL_20231114_053041128 (resized).jpgPXL_20231114_053041128 (resized).jpgPXL_20231114_053105344 (resized).jpgPXL_20231114_053105344 (resized).jpgPXL_20231114_053116598 (resized).jpgPXL_20231114_053116598 (resized).jpgPXL_20231114_053126861 (resized).jpgPXL_20231114_053126861 (resized).jpg
1 week later
#1882 8 days ago
Quoted from BMGfan:

Did my first go with this last night. I think it went ok. I forgot to plug my lamp sockets....so those will need to be replaced.
There's some dust inclusions despite tacking right before spraying. I don't see fisheyes and it looks pretty smooth. We'll see how it turns out.
I'm going to sand for tooth today in a few hours around the 18hour mark, fill lows, and then do a second coat. We'll see how it goes!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Are you planning on touching up the black around your inserts? Just that simple touch makes a world of difference in the look.

#1883 7 days ago
Quoted from RGarriott:

Are you planning on touching up the black around your inserts? Just that simple touch makes a world of difference in the look.

Oh yeah! That was a major part of why I started this playfield. The insert art was trash:
PXL_20230910_203703295 (resized).jpgPXL_20230910_203703295 (resized).jpg

Using an exacto I scraped it all off and using a vinyl cutter I cut stencils and have been repainting it:
PXL_20231124_033122528 (resized).jpgPXL_20231124_033122528 (resized).jpg

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