Block Sand it flat between coats in straight lines, one direction. Dont make cross cuts.

Start at 550 grit and end at 800 grit.

The can should be at room temperature before spraying.

If not soak them in hot tap water for 15-20 mins, dry them off and then puncture and shake.

My can was probably not warm enough.

Will do the sanding before
Next weeks second can..

The longer you wait to sand the harder the material gets.

Its best sanded out the next day or 2.

I usually spray. Then sand out and spray again the next day.

I keep the room temp at 62 to 75 degrees with my room heater.

After the 3rd full coat i let it set 10 days.

If there is noticable die back, i sand and put 2 heavy coats while drip filling insert crevices or whatever the problem was (pinholes, bubbles to pop and carve out, dents etc).

Then i wait 10 weeks for final block sand, then machine polish

At this point i reassemble as the clear is soft enough to not crack.

After 6 more months the surface starts becoming hard.

After 1 year its like a diamond.

Super hard but brittle.

Some restorers put a couple fresh coats of clear on older clearcoated NOS playfields to combat dieback and brittleness before thinking about assembly. It can help a bit.

I have not found the spraymax brittle.
I have saved a piece of masking paper that was sprayed the same thickness as on the playfield.
It is still remarkably plyable after 4 years.
Maybe it depends on the factory mix and the external conditions.

Its not the spraymax thats brittle, its whatever they used on the earlier clearcoat if it has it.

Oh, I misread that.

I just did a filler coat on an old Gottlieb Scuba playfield that I sanded to bare wood and did not care if it got messed up. I used a can of glamour gloss that got hidden on back shelf, with a 2012 date code. Worked perfectly.

Second coat day. I did the first coat a few weeks ago which included dropping clear in some spots where it didn’t take due to touch-ups. First taped off with painters tape and sanded down with a block to get those close to flush.

This time I used a 600 grit disc and my RO sander set to a slower speed. Just applied it with its own weight, worked great.

One can of SprayMax in 3 coats 20 minutes between each. Looks beautiful even without polishing, no orange peel. Spray distance about 4-5”. I’ll sand and polish sometime this week. Sanding with 1500/3000 then polish.

Un-polished, That glass like surface is actually too smooth for pinball, the game plays weird and balls slip instead of rolling.

Almost like a bowling alley.

My experience is that I cant get a mirror finish until the clear dries much harder.

The paint just isnt hard enough to put a mirror on it.

After 8-10 weeks, I sand with 800 and then polish to a mirror finish that lasts.

the surface isnt as perfect, or as glossy, but plays better.

So, in essence the surface can be too smooth, too perfect.

Then wax it with P21S or blitz and buff it off.

PPE bought at local Home Depot.

Just to give you an idea on cost.

Respirator $31.47
2Pk 6001 Cartridges $11.97 - Returned for cartridge recommended below.

3M P100 Respirator Cartridge/Filter 60921 $23.94 (Amazon) - Only good for 30 minutes from first exposure.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Organic-Cartridge-Respiratory-Protection/dp/B00BT2SWTE/

Tyvek full body suit $13.97
Goggles $3.27
Swim Goggles $5.00 (Five Below)

PXL_20210516_153318782 (resized).jpg

This is the semi-regular reminder that you'll need more than one set of these cartridges, as they are only rated for short-time (<30 mins) exposure to 2PAC. This is time from first exposure, not total exposure time. Also, you'll need to stack an N95 or better particulate filter on the front. These cartridges do not filter particulate. You are exposed to harm using the cartridges that you purchased.

These cartridges from 3M are rated for particulates and organic vapours: https://www.amazon.com/3M-Organic-Cartridge-Respiratory-Protection/dp/B00BT2SWTE/

Incorrect PPE is dangerous because it gives a false sense of security. Please see my minimum PPE recommendations from Post 798: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-spraymax-2k-auto-clear-in-a-can-club/page/16#post-5017384

Great information, Thank You. I ordered the filter you recommended and edited my post to include it.

SprayMax 2K Glamour on sale at NAPA Canada -- $21.99 CDN

https://www.napacanada.com/en/p/MAX3680061?impressionRank=1&keywordInput=3680061

You guys have all the luck up there.

Thanks. Just got me a dozen cans!

Thanks for the tip.

I just purchased a 6 pack shipped from Amazon for $15 a can I think. Was $105 with tax.

No way!
I buy it at a Sherwin Williams in medford ma for$22 a can.
I will look into amazon next time.
Thanks for the tip.

Thanks for the heads up. Best price I have seen here in Ontario, including online. Immediately ordered a case and did curbside pickup this afternoon.

I picked up a sandblasting cabinet recently. The one with the window in the top and the embedded gloves and it got me thinking about trying to make something similar for a spraymax paint booth. Since the paint process is light coats with 15 minutes between them I find it a real pain to get my moonsuit on and off or sit around in it waiting for the next coat.

It would be nice to be able to walk up, stick my arms in the gloves and spray the can onto the playfield.

Has anyone done something like that?

I think it is a great idea if you plan on doing multiples.
Lighting, a small outdoor vent system and a removable/ replaceable viewing screen should be considered in the design.

Ok guys, getting anxious to install my overlay to the spraymaxed playfield. I have to ask for your feedback on outside/garage temperatures during the clearcoat process. I read that keeping the clearcoated playfield in a 70 to 90 degree range is needed. Now that we're getting into the North Carolina summer, I'm questioning whether I should wait until Fall before applying the final spraymax 2k on my overlay. Another issue I worry about is the actual overlay and any additional heat and humidity. Have any of you guys been in this situation, attempting to spray in the nasty heat and humidity of the southeast? I have a feeling that waiting for more ideal temps and humidty will be the overwhelming answer to my situation.

Thanks!

I have not sprayed spraymax in humid conditions but i have sprayed many finishes that either clouded or flattened due to humidity.
Can you get a window ac for your spray booth/garage?

I guess a window A/C is possible. Yeah, dealing with the humidity sounds risky to me. Thanks for the feedback, PinballAir.

A working window shaker will control humidity, as that is one of its primary functions.

If you have a garage that is 14x24 and want to cool it down, a 6000-8000 BTU should do it.
If you leave it running overnight and spray in the am the humidity should be acceptable. Leave the playfield in a conditioned space or in the garage/spray booth until ready to spray.
I believe once the Spraymax is on the playfield, the humidity should not be a factor after an hour or so.

Thanks PinballAir!

I have a NOS playfield for my Gottlieb Striker that I will clearcoat using Spraymax 2k. I've cleaned the playfield with a magic sponge soaked in naphtha to make sure there aren't any spots that the Spraymax will not stick to. This made the playfield surface quite a bit rougher.

My question: do you guys think I need to sand the playfield before using Spraymax on it? The playfield paint is quite brittle and I'm afraid sanding it will cause damage, especially to the insert lines.

Very curious about your thoughts!

Without pictures it is hard to advise, but in general:

If I were in that situation, I would lightly scuff what I could. Just dragging the sand paper over what I could. Avoid key lines and anything already flaking.
IMO, the Spray max will be a complete skin. It will adhere to all, but will adhere better to any scuffing. Hopefully the better adhering areas will help the lesser areas.

Flaking in itself does promote some adhesion. The difference in texture gives clear something to hold onto. It also allows clear to touch wood. Unfortunately, these areas also need the most sanding as the clear dies back. They will also require the most clear.

As I said, just my opinion.

I think its not the "paint" thats brittle but whatever they used to topcoat it. If it has some kind of clearcoat from the factory, sand it with 600 or 800. I would not take any chances. You will thank yourself later if you need to drill out any holes that got filled in with clearcoat.

The top coat might be shellac.

Wear nitrile gloves dont touch the surface with oily fingers.

Carefully scuff the surface by lightly dragging with a brand new silver/light gray 800 grit sanding sponge from the auto paint store.

Lightly wipe it down with naptha or maybe rapid-prep to chemically clean the surface, Lightly, Dont soak it. Use cheap un-dyed or un-scented paper towels.

I use rapid-prep a lot. It cleans better than naptha but removes touch-ups. Be careful with it, Naptha is safer.

Allow to dry 30 mins, blow it off with air.

Apply a light mist coat and let dry.

You should be ok

I've been using SprayMax for a few years and love it.
I've always let the playfield cure for two months before final sanding, polishing and reassembling.
I let the playfield cure flat too.
But...today...I cleared 3 playfields and don't have the space to have them all cure flat.
Do you have any recommendations on how much time is needed before storing them on their edge?

The paint hardens in 2 weeks, it wont move. The rest of the time is curing and die back.

Thanks
They need sanded and another coat applied.
I'll give them at least two weeks lying flat after the final coat.

The lying flat is to minimize warpage as the paint shrinks down.

Playfields used to be stored stacked up on big flat tables or shelves. Not arms or dowels as is often seen in racks.

These days i guess its different.

But hanging on a wall works pretty good if there is no table or shelf.

Ron kruzeman says to unwrap them so that the wrapping doesnt leave an impression. And to wait 6 months for installation.

This is after 2 months drying time.

After 10 weeks its pretty hard and stable in my opinion.

However you can still mar it with a fingernail.

12 months and its like a rock.

I've purchased the AliExpress fresh air respirator. First impressions are good, seems to be of decent quality. Was packaged very well and shipped through Fedex.

I'll keep you posted

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I dripped SprayMax into inserts to fill them. How long will it take to harden? Where it was thin it seems pretty hard, but where it is thicker it is still kind of mushy after 36 hours.

I wouldn't worry, except that the can didn't puncture with the usual "feel". Concerned that maybe the catalyst didn't mix properly.

Usually they are hard enough to wet sand after 24 hrs.

I spray some of the left over remains of the can into a plastic cup to see if it dries as a sample.

Its just a habit i picked up.

You might not have got enough catalyst.

Put it in the sun for a couple hours.

See if it firms up.

Even with reduced catalyst it will still dry. Just takes longer.

Please do! I'm very curious if this works well for you.

At what point after spraying is it safe to be around the pf without respirator. I’ve been using a supplied air and figured after the aerosol is out of the air the toxicity decreases rapidly. The smell sticks around the garage for a while but I assumed it’s not an issue.

It did harden after 3-4 days (RIP mostly full can of SprayMax -- I'll have to find something else to fill inserts in the future). Sanded down and it is nice & smooth now. Hopefully I'm now ready for the final coat once the weather straightens up here. Hot one today!

Regular omni clear and hardener is compatible, or whatever they have now.

A lot of people buy some just for filling inserts.

That way you dont get bubbles or foaming when trying to spray into a jar.

I have some and have used it for this during spraying and it didnt react.

I dont know if you can still get omni clear.

The hardener is expensive for a quart, but it doesnt spoil.

If when you droplet the inserts, there are areas on the insert border where the 2k will continue to run away is that a contaminant?
I need to sand and do another round anyway.. but I am wondering if i just didnt get those areas cleaned out well enough..

The clear actually sits like jell-o within the clear if you are shooting the whole playfield.

I shoot a light to medium coat then heavily fill, then a wet coat on top.

Often the filled area is still higher than the surrounding clear.

I have never done just the inserts.

I always fill a bit as it go except for the initial mist coats.

Each consecutive coat I heavily fill the inserts.

They get plenty full after 4 coats.

Sometimes i add even more clear to an insert after the secong coat, while its still wet, to make sure its got enough for that process.

Here’s what I am getting. I would drop the clear in the defect. Then after few seconds it moves away..

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That would be surface imperfection.

Wax and silicone etc causing fish eye. It does build up in crevices.

Try to get it covered. I use rapid prep to remove wax and surface imperfections after naptha wipe downs.

So far (crossing fingers) no real fish eye problems that didnt spray out.

If you can get it to cover, you will be all right. It might take several coats.

I have heard that lacquer thinner applied sparingly can also remove wax and silicones.

My plan is to block sand and really wipe with naphtha. Hopefully that will allow those insert areas to cover. I’ve done 2 cans so far. It’s a black knight and it seems to me it’s a little more surface to cover than just one standard pf. If it takes an extra can, I chalk it up to learning.

I was able to get all the inserts covered.. now too high which is fine. If I don’t plan on doing another coat of clear should I wet sand or dry or does it not make a difference

I would wait for die back . If clear is thicker over inserts it will shrink more than surrounding clear.

how long would you wait ?

Wet Block sand it flat.

Apply the finsh coat. Or not.

Wait 8 to 10 weeks.

If you applied the final coat, Block/orbital wet sand with 800.

Cascade up to 3500.

Polish to mirror

It takes a few weeks to get it hard enough to put a mirror glaze on it.

Done.