(Topic ID: 109931)

The SprayMax 2K Auto Clear in a Can Club!

By Curbfeeler

6 years ago


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There are 1315 posts in this topic. You are on page 23 of 27.
#1101 10 months ago

I used a wooden stick and had no bubbles.
Only filled inserts 1 time so it is not a repeated success story

#1102 10 months ago
Quoted from Blenderhead:

I am trying to find information on using Spray Max 2k to fill in some worn out areas on my Fish Tales playfield. Plan is to use a dropper to fill in worn out areas by collecting some of the clear into a small container so I can use the dropper to "suck up" some of the clear. Can anyone here lead me to a thread# that goes into more detail about this process?

I’m still new to the clear coat scene but am currently in the middle of my for first playfield clear coat using SprayMax. So these are my thoughts from my limited experience. SprayMax is great if you’re doing an entire playfield but I think it’s overkill for small touch ups. Because of it’s toxicity you would need to wear a bunny suit and ventilator just to spray it into a container. After using the little amount needed for your touch ups you would then waste the rest of the can because once you use it the product has about a 48 hour shelf life. (You can extend that longer if you place it in a refrigerator.)

For something like what you’re doing I would use either regular 2 PAC that you would need to mix or MinWax Polycrylic. The cheapest is the MinWax and it comes in a little can that is ready to use and I hear yields great results. Cleans up easily with water and is much less toxic that the 2 PAC and SprayMax.

#1103 10 months ago

I use Varethane to protect small touch ups. Any water based product can be removed with xylene if you later decide to clear coat entire playfield.
Be careful, if you use latex paints to touch up, they will be removed as well.
The water based products can be brushed onto touch ups in very thin layers with excellent results both in wear and the look.
No masking. Quick easy protection.

1 week later
#1104 10 months ago

Insert bubbles update

I bought off of eBay the Sherwin Williams Finish 1 FC710 (instead of FC720) which is supposed to be spot panel clear coat along with the medium hardener FH612. I used a Dremel to remove the bubbled layer of clear from the inserts. Mixed 4 to 1 ratio using glass eye droppers. So far so good - no bubbles on the inserts. Fingers crossed as I move on with the clear coating process which is another spray coat and sanding inserts level. Then a light coat for the decals and then heavy final coats.

A great thing about using the Finish 1 instead of the SprayMax for spot filling is that you don’t need to suit up spraying the clear into a container.

#1105 10 months ago

It is likely just as deadly so i would at least wear a mask.

#1106 10 months ago
Quoted from PinballAir:

It is likely just as deadly so i would at least wear a mask.

Yes, I did take that precaution.

#1107 10 months ago

How soon after spraying a light coat of clear can I apply my water slide decals?

#1108 9 months ago

Next day

2 weeks later
#1110 9 months ago

I plan on laying down some adhesive vinyl on my Skill Roll project. Does anyone know if the clear will negatively react with it? Seeing crumpled playfield overlays on this thread doesn't make me feel good...

#1111 9 months ago
Quoted from dudah:

I plan on laying down some adhesive vinyl on my Skill Roll project. Does anyone know if the clear will negatively react with it? Seeing crumpled playfield overlays on this thread doesn't make me feel good...

I wrapped my apron in vinyl and clear coated it. No problem at all. Just like with water decals.
Just remember to start with very light/mist layers.

8D11E9FB-AF8E-4FB4-8C8C-974998EF0B8E (resized).jpeg
#1112 9 months ago

I had a tough time putting white numbers on a dark background. When I airbrushed using a mask, the white tended to lift. I tried decals but the white was not very opaque. So I went with white vinyl cut from my cameo and then covered with the spraymax. It came out great with no problems

image (resized).jpg
#1113 9 months ago
Quoted from mark532011:

I had a tough time putting white numbers on a dark background. When I airbrushed using a mask, the white tended to lift. I tried decals but the white was not very opaque. So I went with white vinyl cut from my cameo and then covered with the spraymax. It came out great with no problems [quoted image]

White letters/numbers has always been a problem for me. I like your results. Did you have a problem with the thickness of the vinyl?

#1114 9 months ago

It’s definitely thick. I was careful to spray a few light coats first before thickening up the clear. But it needs a couple of thick coats to get the depth of clear necessary

1 week later
#1115 8 months ago

I may have to do a final coat of clear on some projects but I’m out of the regular 2 part clear I used in a HVLP setup. Anyone have experience with spraying spraymax over another brand of clear?

#1116 8 months ago

I’ve sprayed standard rustoleum clear for lockdown coats then after the touch ups are done used spraymax. No problems. But I started with several light coats.

#1117 8 months ago

My project requires me to drill through the clear.
Think this would be OK if done carefully after the clear has cured?

#1118 8 months ago
Quoted from dudah:

My project requires me to drill through the clear.
Think this would be OK if done carefully after the clear has cured?

Best way is to use Forstner bits to drill through the clear.

#1119 8 months ago
Quoted from dudah:

My project requires me to drill through the clear.
Think this would be OK if done carefully after the clear has cured?

Start the drill in reverse.
Go slow, dont let it grab.

Once thru the clear you should be ok.

#1120 8 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Start the drill in reverse.
Go slow, dont let it grab.
Once thru the clear you should be ok.

To add to this I would suggest using a bit one size up on the clear in reverse, once through the clear then switch the bit to the actual (smaller) size for drilling into the playfield

#1121 8 months ago

Spinning a sharp countersink bit with my fingers worked really well for me.

1 week later
#1122 8 months ago

Anyone north of Boston know where to buy Spraymax locally? I see a few warm days on the calendar this week. Amazon won't deliver until next week.

#1123 8 months ago

I have bought it from the Sherwin Williams store on Mystic Ave in Medford.
You can see it from rt 93. It is an autobody supply store.
The inventory is hit or miss so you should call them first.
$23 a can.
Cliff

#1124 8 months ago

Thanks, I'll check that out!

#1125 8 months ago

Trying to sneak it in before it’s too cold

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#1126 8 months ago

First coat done. This is a bare wood repaint that I will fully document in another post. Used most of a can, two rounds with 20 minutes between them.

Instructions on the can are not the same as on the Technical Information Sheet. The can shows to spray at 10" but the sheet at 6-8". I follow the sheet and spray closer.

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#1127 8 months ago

For anyone else in the same boat as me. . .

I tried the KBS brushable clear. Twice. Both times were disastrous (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hideous-target-alpha-playfield-needs-art#post-5885891)

After spending hours sanding down the KBS until I was left with a moderately level thin coat, I bought a full face mask and supplied air system from amazon (3m mask, Chinese supplied air system that connects to my pancake compressor), and tried spraymax. The supplied air through the compressor and charcoal filter seemed to do the trick - I couldn't smell any of the spraymax and I got plenty of air through the compressor.

I got beautiful results the first time. No adhesion or contamination issues over the KBS. I still have to sand and apply my 2nd (and maybe 3rd) can of Spraymax, but I am optimistic that I'll end up with a great looking playfield.

I sprayed outside in a party tent that had 3 walls. It was a really windy day but the "spray booth" was protected. I checked on the playfield after 3 hours (all outside, all very windy). The smell of the playfield was still so strong that I would have gotten lightheaded if decided to stay unprotected and inhale. It took all night for the smell to dissipate enough to be near the playfield unprotected. Crazy stuff.

#1128 8 months ago

Does clearcoating act as sort of a bonding agent for the stuff underneath it that is being cleared? I used tacky glue to add glitter to some of my inserts on my playfield, and I'm hoping that spraying the entire film of clearcoat on the playfield will act as sort of a glue to help hold down the glitter and tacky glue. The tacky glue has a good bond but if I apply enough pressure with my finger nail it can chip off.

It is not large surface areas with glue/glitter, it's just applied on small text and border trim of the inserts. I will be spraying 2 cans of this stuff on my playfield tomorrow and I'm wondering if clearcoating helps hold down the stuff beneath it. I feel like it's one of those situations where you can't know the answer until you try.
unnamed (resized).jpg

#1129 8 months ago
Quoted from Flipper_McGavin:

Does clearcoating act as sort of a bonding agent for the stuff underneath it that is being cleared? I used tacky glue to add glitter to some of my inserts on my playfield, and I'm hoping that spraying the entire film of clearcoat on the playfield will act as sort of a glue to help hold down the glitter and tacky glue. The tacky glue has a good bond but if I apply enough pressure with my finger nail it can chip off.
It is not large surface areas with glue/glitter, it's just applied on small text and border trim of the inserts. I will be spraying 2 cans of this stuff on my playfield tomorrow and I'm wondering if clearcoating helps hold down the stuff beneath it. I feel like it's one of those situations where you can't know the answer until you try.
[quoted image]

You put a mist coat on and wait 15 mins.

Then another slightly thicker mist coat. Wait 20 mins.

Then a light coat. Not heavy at all.

Next day sand with 800, put 3 light coats 10- 15 mins apart. Then Apply a heavier coat.

Next day sand with 800.
Put 2 medium coats 15 mins apart then a heavy finish coat.

Always dropper in inserts or low spots each day.

Day 4 put 3 coats or one complete can.

If it looks like glass, let it dry 8 weeks.

After 8 weeks sand it flat and buff it out.

#1130 8 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

You put a mist coat on and wait 15 mins.
Then another slightly thicker mist coat. Wait 20 mins.
Then a light coat. Not heavy at all.
Next day sand with 800, put 3 light coats 10- 15 mins apart. Then Apply a heavier coat.
Next day sand with 800.
Put 2 medium coats 15 mins apart then a heavy finish coat.
Always dropper in inserts or low spots each day.
Day 4 put 3 coats or one complete can.
If it looks like glass, let it dry 8 weeks.
After 8 weeks sand it flat and buff it out.

This is helpful. You are the human version of Watson for Pinside restoration.

#1131 8 months ago

After the second can which didn’t spray very well for some reason...no orange peel, I’ll sand and polish in a few days.

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#1132 8 months ago

Ran out of traditional clear coat and am running out of nice days in NEw England so I got spray max for the first time. I enjoy not having to set up and clean/ break down a hvlp setup. This playfield was already cleared and I broke through in a couple spots so needed a final coat. Used a whole can over 3 coats. Light mist-heavy- heavy. The nozzle kept clogging and I could see the clear fan out then stop the start again. No drips but was frustrating. Due to that, I had to angle it higher and do a kinda shaking motion. This led to more orange peel than I would have liked. Since there is a whole can on an already cleared playfield, should have plenty to sand out and flatten through all the imperfections.

Took the black nozzle tip out and was able to spray the last bit an hour or two after spraying to fill a small crack I didn’t catch.

As long as it hardens and sands flat/ polished out, I’m happy with this.

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#1133 8 months ago

Did you time how long you shook it?
Was is past date?

#1134 8 months ago
Quoted from PinballAir:

Did you time how long you shook it?
Was is past date?

Shook it per instructions. 2 min before and 2 after activation. Also kinda kept it shaking throughout the process between costs and whatnot.

#1135 8 months ago
Quoted from Langless28:

Ran out of traditional clear coat and am running out of nice days in NEw England so I got spray max for the first time. I enjoy not having to set up and clean/ break down a hvlp setup. This playfield was already cleared and I broke through in a couple spots so needed a final coat. Used a whole can over 3 coats. Light mist-heavy- heavy. The nozzle kept clogging and I could see the clear fan out then stop the start again. No drips but was frustrating. Due to that, I had to angle it higher and do a kinda shaking motion. This led to more orange peel than I would have liked. Since there is a whole can on an already cleared playfield, should have plenty to sand out and flatten through all the imperfections.
Took the black nozzle tip out and was able to spray the last bit an hour or two after spraying to fill a small crack I didn’t catch.
As long as it hardens and sands flat/ polished out, I’m happy with this.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

If its cool in the room, I put the cans in 90 to 100 degree hot water.

Its a graffiti artist trick.

1 week later
#1136 7 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

You put a mist coat on and wait 15 mins.
Then another slightly thicker mist coat. Wait 20 mins.
Then a light coat. Not heavy at all.
Next day sand with 800, put 3 light coats 10- 15 mins apart. Then Apply a heavier coat.
Next day sand with 800.
Put 2 medium coats 15 mins apart then a heavy finish coat.
Always dropper in inserts or low spots each day.
Day 4 put 3 coats or one complete can.
If it looks like glass, let it dry 8 weeks.
After 8 weeks sand it flat and buff it out.

Do you know of any local places that sell Spraymax 2K? I am wanting to spray just one more can within the next 2 days and buying online would take too long.

Edit: found some locally.

1 month later
#1137 6 months ago

I did an overlay about 2 years ago. After 2 or 3 weeks, I clearcoated with Spraymax. A month after that, I put a clear playfield protector over the cleared overlay.

Apparently, that was a mistake. Many months later, it started showing signs of a gas-off. These pics are from today. I've bought a new CPR playfield, so this disaster is going up on the wall.

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#1138 6 months ago

If you don't want to shell out $900 for a CPR repro, you could use your existing playfield (sand off all the artwork) and put down a hardtop for about $300. Best part is only a topside teardown is needed.

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#1139 6 months ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

If you don't want to shell out $900 for a CPR repro, you could use your existing playfield (sand off all the artwork) and put down a hardtop for about $300. Best part is only a topside teardown is needed.

I've already got the new playfield for it. But, I do have a Hardtop for my Mata Hari, but have yet to install it. How does the Hardtop play and feel? I noticed that the playfield protector I was using, made the ball act differently than when it was rolling over just the wood.

#1140 6 months ago
Quoted from seeburg220:

I've already got the new playfield for it. But, I do have a Hardtop for my Mata Hari, but have yet to install it. How does the Hardtop play and feel? I noticed that the playfield protector I was using, made the ball act differently than when it was rolling over just the wood.

I've played a number of hardtop games (never owned) and I have also played plenty of games with Playfield Protectors. I have always enjoyed playing a hard top, I have never enjoyed playing a game with a plastic protector.

#1141 6 months ago
Quoted from seeburg220:

I've already got the new playfield for it. But, I do have a Hardtop for my Mata Hari, but have yet to install it. How does the Hardtop play and feel? I noticed that the playfield protector I was using, made the ball act differently than when it was rolling over just the wood.

Small world - I also have a hardtop on my Mata Hari. And I have a playfield protector on my Black Jack and also (until I put a hardtop on) my Black Knight.

I very much like the play and feel of a hardtop. The ball does roll faster and smoother which I prefer...kind of like breathing new life into an old game. My Mata Hari, especially, is a lot "livelier" now with the hardtop and I think that's good. The ball is a bit quieter on a hardtop vs. a playfield, but that's moot to me as I usually have music blaring in the background anyway so you wouldn't notice.

The hardtop (and playfield protector, for that matter) also do a nice job of neutralizing sunken inserts without the hassle of leveling with clear or replacing altogether. Both my MH and EBD have several sunken inserts that change the ball trajectory when hit, but not anymore. Ball travel is smooth and true.

4 weeks later
#1142 5 months ago

Has anyone ever used spraymax 2k over minwax polycrylic? What about regular 2pac over minwax polycrylic? I need to fill some cupped inserts and like the ease of use of the polycrylic. I have someone that owns a body repair shop that is willing to shoot the clear but I would like to have everything level before I send anything to him. Any thoughts?

#1143 5 months ago
Quoted from budfrog80:

Has anyone ever used spraymax 2k over minwax polycrylic? What about regular 2pac over minwax polycrylic? I need to fill some cupped inserts and like the ease of use of the polycrylic. I have someone that owns a body repair shop that is willing to shoot the clear but I would like to have everything level before I send anything to him. Any thoughts?

It will go over it, just scuff it up real good and go very light the first couple coats.

3 weeks later
#1144 4 months ago

I am curious for the first coat, most seem to recommend to spray a "thin" coat. Does that mean the first coat should be almost spotty? where the pf is not completely coated or should the first coat be a complete covering just making sure its not overdone..?

#1145 4 months ago

I found SprayMax to be extremely forgiving. I think I would have had a very hard time screwing it up. I'm comparing to the diamond finish clear I tried first. Night and day. I sprayed a light coat for my first coat and it was probably a little spotty. I didn't worry too much about it. I waited some time (10-15 min? Can't really remember) and then I went back and emptied my can. I emptied 2 more cans on my playfield and called it done and it looks very good considering it was my first time doing this. The clear coat has proven much more durable than the clear on a repro playfield I purchased around the same time. No ball dimples in the SprayMax - hundreds of dimples in the repro.

#1146 4 months ago

I have also found it to be forgiving. The light first coat is to prevent melting decals.
I have not yet used decals so i have never had an issue.

#1147 4 months ago
Quoted from topkat:

I am curious for the first coat, most seem to recommend to spray a "thin" coat. Does that mean the first coat should be almost spotty? where the pf is not completely coated or should the first coat be a complete covering just making sure its not overdone..?

I would say just a little more than a dusting, it’ll look kind of crappy and you’ll think you did it wrong. That’s how you know it’s right.
Wait about 10 minutes or so and do that again.
Wait about 10 minutes then stray a nice medium-ish bed to start getting that glossy look. Depending on how much clear you are adding you just keep doing that.
Sand a day or 2 later then do it again.

#1148 4 months ago

first pass heavy so you cant see any misting or dusting and it looks like glass, wait 15 min, second coat heavy so it looks like glass, then use up the rest of the can by keep going over it as much as you can till its empty, toss can in trash.

Edit #1:

Come back two days later to bring the board home.

Edit #2:

If that clear was to lock in your repainting and you are still doing more touch ups wait 2 weeks then sand with 400 and resume painting. If it was your last finishing coat let it cure for a month. then finish sand and polish.

#1149 4 months ago

Just sprayed a Shadow with 2K after scuffing the original playfield with maroon Scotchbrite. I sprayed a light dusting coat to make sure I didn't have an issue with a Sanctum waterslide decal. Waited 10 or so minutes and then laid down a medium coat. Waited another 10 and then emptied the can. A day or so later, I sanded with 600 and repeated the same process. Waited another day and sanded again with 600 and resprayed. It's been sitting about 10 days. Within the next couple weeks, I will sand with 1000, 1500, and 2000 grit, and buff out.

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#1150 4 months ago
Quoted from epeabs:

Just sprayed a Shadow with 2K after scuffing the original playfield with maroon Scotchbrite. I sprayed a light dusting coat to make sure I didn't have an issue with a Sanctum waterslide decal. Waited 10 or so minutes and then laid down a medium coat. Waited another 10 and then emptied the can. A day or so later, I sanded with 600 and repeated the same process. Waited another day and sanded again with 600 and resprayed. It's been sitting about 10 days. Within the next couple weeks, I will sand with 1000, 1500, and 2000 grit, and buff out.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

perfecly executed.

There are 1315 posts in this topic. You are on page 23 of 27.

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