(Topic ID: 109931)

The SprayMax 2K Auto Clear in a Can Club!

By Curbfeeler

9 years ago


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There are 1,903 posts in this topic. You are on page 22 of 39.
#1051 3 years ago
Quoted from Flipper_McGavin:

I think it's more likely the Ultimate compound is leaving the tiny swirl marks because compound is considered an abrasive, and your microfiber is absorbing the compound that was left in those tiny crevices, making it look like it's the towel causing it. I would treat it like the clear coat of a vehicle. You want to use a polish afterwards because that removes the swirls left by the compound.

I did the best I could with the Ultimate Compound. I tried it all over again by hand and pressed significantly harder than the first time. Showed some improvement, still think it could look better. I’m giving it a day then I’ll use the polisher.

#1052 3 years ago

That Ultimate compound is ok I guess, but you should still follow it up with your polish. It'll polish out the fine scratches left by the compound.

I use Meguire's 105 followed by Meguire's 205 with a DA for a mirror finish.

-Paul

#1053 3 years ago
Quoted from Pablito350:

That Ultimate compound is ok I guess, but you should still follow it up with your polish. It'll polish out the fine scratches left by the compound.
I use Meguire's 105 followed by Meguire's 205 with a DA for a mirror finish.
-Paul

Yeah, stick with the 105 and 205. If you have a Harbor Freight nearby you can get it there. Pro quality stuff.....

1 month later
#1054 3 years ago

So I have a retheme that I’m doing and it’s time to clear coat. I’m probably going to do this for just this one pin. I have the cans of SprayMax but I need the mask/respirator and the bunny suit. Can someone recommend which ones to buy? Like I said, I probably won’t do this again so I’m hoping to not spend too much money.

#1055 3 years ago

I don’t know if anyone responded to your question. On page 17 of this thread is a lot of safety discussion and some links. I have ordered the system below after the vendor promised I could get extra lengths of tube. My plan is rather than rely on the filter I will put the filter outside the paint booth. Unfortunately it won’t come until August. I will post my results

JUM99 Electric Supplied Air Fed Full Face Gas Mask Constant Flow Respirator System Device in Gas masks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086QW3RPS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_vs2-EbXDJYD85

#1056 3 years ago

I wish I could give a recommendation for what to purchase. Unfortunately, respirators of any kind are nearly impossible to find. Although I have far more time on my hands this year, my refinishing projects have been placed on hold completely because I can't do them safely.

As an aside, respirators intended to protect the wearer from construction debris and solvent vapours do not prevent the spread of Covid-19, as exhalation air is not filtered. That unfortunately hasn't prevented people from panic purchasing. That means that people who need them for their (essential) work in construction and manufacturing can no longer obtain them, and this is part of why supply chains have been impacted. If you use a construction respirator or a disposable half-mask with an exhalation valve, understand that wearing it will not prevent the spread of the virus. When in public indoors, you should instead wear a cloth mask, non-surgical paper mask, or other disposable mask that does not have an exhalation valve. The intent for wearing a mask to prevent viral spread is not so that it filters the air you breathe in, but so that any virus-laden moisture that you exhale is trapped in your own mask. The more people that wear masks, the less transmission that will occur. This is not a political statement; it is a fact.

During this time of supply shortages, I would suggest that we refrain from leisure projects requiring any purchase of new respiratory PPE so that the limited professional-grade equipment can go to production workers in the construction and manufacturing industries whose work has been deemed essential. Currently, they are being forced to work without PPE around crystalline silica, asbestos, and solvent fumes without response from authorities who would normally assist workers in refusing unsafe conditions. Those workers are facing a difficult choice between their lives and their livelihoods, and recognizing that, we can decide not to compound the problem further.

#1057 3 years ago
Quoted from semicolin:

During this time of supply shortages, I would suggest that we refrain from leisure projects requiring any purchase of new respiratory PPE so that the limited professional-grade equipment can go to production workers in the construction and manufacturing industries whose work has been deemed essential. Currently, they are being forced to work without PPE around crystalline silica, asbestos, and solvent fumes without response from authorities who would normally assist workers in refusing unsafe conditions. Those workers are facing a difficult choice between their lives and their livelihoods, and recognizing that, we can decide not to compound the problem further.

I was on board until this piece, the company I work for just ordered an extremely large number of masks with no problem for just one department out of 100s of areas also ordering. Professional construction, medical, and essential companies have access to PPE from distributors way sooner than the general public sees when it trickles down to walmart shelves and amazon. If people are being "forced" to work around those hazards, then thats an issue with their management or union to address. People in those jobs arent shopping for their crews PPE online or in public big box stores. The 15 people in our hobby that spray a few cans of clear a year arent putting professional workers in dangerous situations.

#1058 3 years ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

I was on board until this piece, the company I work for just ordered an extremely large number of masks with no problem for just one department out of 100s of areas also ordering. Professional construction, medical, and essential companies have access to PPE from distributors way sooner than the general public sees when it trickles down to walmart shelves and amazon. If people are being "forced" to work around those hazards, then thats an issue with their management or union to address. People in those jobs arent shopping for their crews PPE online or in public big box stores. The 15 people in our hobby that spray a few cans of clear a year arent putting professional workers in dangerous situations.

It might be different from region to region. Where I am, the three industrial safety suppliers in town (the capital of Canada, pop 1M+, not a backwater) have been unable to source any half or full mask respirators since April for any of the ~200 industry employers in my group. They have faced everything from border seizures to counterfeiting. We've been able to get dodgy chinese disposable "KN95" dust masks for about a month now but that's about it. I'm speaking from experience.

If you have access to respirators and cartridges (OV/N95) where you are, please post the supplier name here. I would like to contact them. I am worried about my colleagues.

1 week later
#1059 3 years ago

It’s a very tough time and I completely understand the trouble that doctors and first responders are having with the supply and demand for respirators.

I have decided and already purchased a full face swim mask and a tyvek clean suit from Amazon. I will connect a long breathing tube to the mask and the open end will be located outside my spraying tent. The total for the mask and suit is about $40.
I don’t plan on staying in the spraying tent very long. I got the idea from a video showing a doctor who made his own respirator using a full face swim mask. He was able to attach a filter to it using a 3D printed adapter. I hope everyone is safe!

#1060 3 years ago

Breathing through a long tube is difficult. I hope it works for you! I am trying a similar system in the next couple of days. I will post a report

#1061 3 years ago
Quoted from mark532011:

Breathing through a long tube is difficult. I hope it works for you! I am trying a similar system in the next couple of days. I will post a report

I’d be interested in your report! Keep us posted.

#1062 3 years ago
Quoted from semicolin:

If you have access to respirators and cartridges (OV/N95) where you are, please post the supplier name here. I would like to contact them. I am worried about my colleagues.

Just repeating this since it seems to have been ignored. Again, if anyone has access to a supplier of industrial half or full mask respirators and cartridges that will ship to Canada, I still have a professional need.

#1063 3 years ago
Quoted from semicolin:

Just repeating this since it seems to have been ignored. Again, if anyone has access to a supplier of industrial half or full mask respirators and cartridges that will ship to Canada, I still have a professional need.

I just googled OV/N95 respirators / masks. Plenty available as I saw. What is your real beef?

#1064 3 years ago
Quoted from wayinla:

It’s a very tough time and I completely understand the trouble that doctors and first responders are having with the supply and demand for respirators.
I have decided and already purchased a full face swim mask and a tyvek clean suit from Amazon. I will connect a long breathing tube to the mask and the open end will be located outside my spraying tent. The total for the mask and suit is about $40.
I don’t plan on staying in the spraying tent very long. I got the idea from a video showing a doctor who made his own respirator using a full face swim mask. He was able to attach a filter to it using a 3D printed adapter. I hope everyone is safe!

Per Wikipedia, typical breath volume is only 0.5 litres (smaller than I was expecting). If you are breathing through a 1 in (25 mm) tube, your breath only make it about 1 meter (3 feet). So if your tube is longer you are only rebreathing the same air over and over. If you have a one way valve so you are only pulling in air from the tube and exhaling locally this would work.

-1
#1065 3 years ago

To spray clearcoat, you need the following, at least:

Mask (resized).jpgMask (resized).jpg

Forget about the COVID masks....these are useless. Tha painter mask can be found at Lowes or Home Depot, for less than $40. Great investment.

Yves

#1066 3 years ago
Quoted from Arcane:

To spray clearcoat, you need the following, at least:
[quoted image]
Forget about the COVID masks....these are useless. Tha painter mask can be found at Lowes or Home Depot, for less than $40. Great investment.
Yves

Unfortunately these are out of stock everywhere that I’ve looked.

#1067 3 years ago
Quoted from wayinla:

Unfortunately these are out of stock everywhere that I’ve looked.

I see the 6001 cartridges on Amazon etc. if you are new to 2k spraying I guess you may not have the 1/2 face respirator. There seems to be full face 3m respirators that use these cartridges for less than $60.

#1068 3 years ago

I have a status update for anyone thinking of using Spraymax 2K. If you don't have a professional setup, this might work for you.

I purchased the full mask air system linked in post 1055. Its $195 at the moment. I purchased it because although it only had a short 3-foot hose, when I posted the question on amazon they replied and said you could get additional hose extensions.

When it arrived, I was a bit dismayed to find it 100% in chinese. No english instructions, no dual-language, no phone number to call. The filters are in a unique shape and have no recognizable markings on them so I have no idea what they are rated for and I would not trust them at all.
as it came from chinaas it came from chinathe filters are all in chinesethe filters are all in chinese

Fortunately it is already assembled and even charged up, all I had to do was screw the tubes together and put it on. Since there was no information on extra tubes, I went to the hardware store and got 20 feet of flexihose. I then duct-taped the hose in the moddle, using plenty of tape to ensure a good seal. The air supply is plenty strong to push air through the long tube and I was ready to use it!

I set up my little paint booth (cheapie from Amazon, essentially a tent with no floor) and ran the hose around the side of the house, where the intake would not get any whiff.running the hose behind the houserunning the hose behind the housemy paint booth with maskmy paint booth with mask

Put on my moon suit and popped the can and sprayed 3 light coats with a 15 min dry between.all dolled up and ready to paintall dolled up and ready to paint

It worked perfectly, I smelled nothing and I think it was successful

#1069 3 years ago
Quoted from wayinla:

Unfortunately these are out of stock everywhere that I’ve looked.

Try looking at a paint store ( sherwin williams, ben moore etc)

#1070 3 years ago

Google translate app on your phone can translate using the camera.

#1071 3 years ago
Quoted from mark532011:

I have a status update for anyone thinking of using Spraymax 2K. If you don't have a professional setup, this might work for you.
I purchased the full mask air system linked in post 1055. Its $195 at the moment. I purchased it because although it only had a short 3-foot hose, when I posted the question on amazon they replied and said you could get additional hose extensions.
When it arrived, I was a bit dismayed to find it 100% in chinese. No english instructions, no dual-language, no phone number to call. The filters are in a unique shape and have no recognizable markings on them so I have no idea what they are rated for and I would not trust them at all.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Fortunately it is already assembled and even charged up, all I had to do was screw the tubes together and put it on. Since there was no information on extra tubes, I went to the hardware store and got 20 feet of flexihose. I then duct-taped the hose in the moddle, using plenty of tape to ensure a good seal. The air supply is plenty strong to push air through the long tube and I was ready to use it!
I set up my little paint booth (cheapie from Amazon, essentially a tent with no floor) and ran the hose around the side of the house, where the intake would not get any whiff.[quoted image][quoted image]
Put on my moon suit and popped the can and sprayed 3 light coats with a 15 min dry between.[quoted image]
It worked perfectly, I smelled nothing and I think it was successful

That’s pretty cool. But it looks like the delivery date is in September. Ugh!

#1072 3 years ago

I find the spraymax 2k to be too soft, anyone know of a harder version that still comes in a can?

#1073 3 years ago
Quoted from NYP:

I find the spraymax 2k to be too soft, anyone know of a harder version that still comes in a can?

Too soft? How long has it cured? Mine is not softer than reproduction playfield etc.

#1074 3 years ago
Quoted from NYP:

I find the spraymax 2k to be too soft, anyone know of a harder version that still comes in a can?

It is not too soft for pinball usage. I have used it on multiple playfields with great success.
It is actually better than Automotive clearcoat, as Spraymax has some flexibility.
Just let is cure fully, which can take 4 to 6 weeks before you can buff it to perfection.

Yves

1 week later
#1075 3 years ago

Is it better to also clear coat all the metal parts ramps and loops etc that I have cleaned and polished to prevent tarnishing again.
Thanks

7730BD4D-C4AC-4E64-AFAB-05972CF8702F (resized).jpeg7730BD4D-C4AC-4E64-AFAB-05972CF8702F (resized).jpeg257F8173-B5E6-4939-B01D-CDBF5B4AA1CE (resized).jpeg257F8173-B5E6-4939-B01D-CDBF5B4AA1CE (resized).jpeg61B67C20-6739-4874-9D75-538430FFD93B (resized).jpeg61B67C20-6739-4874-9D75-538430FFD93B (resized).jpeg7F55A942-952A-419A-A6D7-50F222D7BC21 (resized).jpeg7F55A942-952A-419A-A6D7-50F222D7BC21 (resized).jpeg
#1076 3 years ago
Quoted from Toeckeder:

Awesome product.
3 cans:
Can #1
Intensive cleaning with Naphta
2 thick coats, 20 minutes or so in between
Drying 36 hours
Dry sanding 400 grid with a good sanding block
Can #2
Naphta again
2 thick coats, 20 minutes or so in between
Drying 36 hours
Dry sanding 800 grid with a good sanding block
Can #3
Naphta
2 thick coats, 20 minutes or so in between
Drying 48 hours
Wet sand 1000-1500-2000 with a good sanding block
Compound Presta "Ultra cutting crème" with proper pad (3 inch pad on a drill)
Presta "Ultra polish" with proper pad (different) 3inch pad on drill
Wax

[quoted image][quoted image]

Love the Tommy.
Have one myself.
Did you have to do any touch ups?

#1077 3 years ago

I am about to do some work on my TSPP. And then clear coat it with Spray Max 2k.

Why do you spray a coat first prior to doing any repairs or painT touch ups? Just curious.
I have never done playfield repairs before but I would like to know the process for doing the touch ups on the playfield and if they are even required on mine.
Around Ichy and Scratchy Hole (cliffys might cover when they turn up) Not sure if coverage.
And shooter lane area. There is also some cracks in the paint/wood to rear of playfield but hidden and not used for play. Please advise.
Much thanks.

22244C6E-3B16-4649-80A7-23F50D003F64 (resized).jpeg22244C6E-3B16-4649-80A7-23F50D003F64 (resized).jpeg7BAC16D8-AB4A-4C95-95AD-249C583E102C (resized).jpeg7BAC16D8-AB4A-4C95-95AD-249C583E102C (resized).jpegD66422A8-B1F3-4888-ACC9-8D8FE486D7F0 (resized).jpegD66422A8-B1F3-4888-ACC9-8D8FE486D7F0 (resized).jpeg
#1078 3 years ago
Quoted from Sandman454:

Is it better to also clear coat all the metal parts ramps and loops etc that I have cleaned and polished to prevent tarnishing again.
Thanks [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Personally I would Not CC any of the metal. In very short order lines will wear in and there will be no way to repair at that point. Just clean and reinstall.

#1079 3 years ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Personally I would Not CC any of the metal. In very short order lines will wear in and there will be no way to repair at that point. Just clean and reinstall.

I agree, I would think the ball would wear/chip a groove in the clear very quickly.

#1080 3 years ago

I agree also^^^^
Also, once it is on there it will be tough to remove it.

#1081 3 years ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Personally I would Not CC any of the metal. In very short order lines will wear in and there will be no way to repair at that point. Just clean and reinstall.

Ah yes, Makes sense.
Thanks
Much appreciated.

#1082 3 years ago

As others have said, clear should only be on the playfield. Clearing the metal guides would be a disaster.

These are handy to regrain the metal guides https://www.amazon.com/Flapper-Wheel-Buffing-Flap-Wheels/dp/B01GIGZ4VO/ref=sr_1_2

#1083 3 years ago
Quoted from lb1:

As others have said, clear should only be on the playfield. Clearing the metal guides would be a disaster.
These are handy to regrain the metal guides amazon.com link »

Thanks. Will see if I can find some here in Aus. And give them a go.

2 weeks later
#1084 3 years ago

Hi all. Hoping someone can help! Bubbles on inserts! I've read the posts and tried what people have suggested but still have the bubbles issue.

The clear looks good when dripped onto the insert but when it dries there are bubbles. I tried letting the clear sit in its container for a few minutes (even for a day, covered) and still get the same results. I've had to dremel out the clear and start over a couple of times.

One thing that I've noticed is that when I put the (plastic) eye dropper into the clear, the clear start to react by almost fizzing. Same with a wooden stick. So I let the clear sit over night in a little covered container and the next day the liquid was bubble free and didn't react to the wooden stick. So I applied it to the insert and still had bubbles when it dried. Temps were just over 70 degrees F.

Is there some kind of chemical reaction? I can't get naphtha in California so I've using alcohol to wipe down the playfield as I sand. Could that be causing it? Would mineral spirits be better? It also seems that tiny drops don't bubble but larger areas (insert size about 1") seems to have the problem.

#1085 3 years ago
Quoted from wayinla:

Hi all. Hoping someone can help! Bubbles on inserts! I've read the posts and tried what people have suggested but still have the bubbles issue.
The clear looks good when dripped onto the insert but when it dries there are bubbles. I tried letting the clear sit in its container for a few minutes (even for a day, covered) and still get the same results. I've had to dremel out the clear and start over a couple of times.
One thing that I've noticed is that when I put the (plastic) eye dropper into the clear, the clear start to react by almost fizzing. Same with a wooden stick.

I had an almost identical experience around inserts and my theory was the clear was reacting with my plastic eyedropper. Areas where I laid it on thick straight out of the can were fine but wherever the eyedropper went bubbles came out. Next time I do this I'm going to try a glass beaker and eyedropper.

#1086 3 years ago

I had a similar issue when using a glass beaker and a glass eye dropper. I solved it by buying a cheap can of regular 2 PAC mixing it per the instructions and then applied it with my glass eye dropper. No more bubbles after that. Well worth the extra $40.

#1087 3 years ago

Spraymax is great for the playfield, but not so much for filling the inserts.

#1088 3 years ago
Quoted from Silverstreak02:

I solved it by buying a cheap can of regular 2 PAC mixing it per the instructions and then applied it with my glass eye dropper. No more bubbles after that. Well worth the extra $40.

Which 2 PAC did you buy and where did you purchase it from? Does it matter which one to use?

#1089 3 years ago

I bought this from Amazon or E-bay I can’t remember which one.

C72A2A77-4AEF-4547-9274-E1E54C87F834 (resized).jpegC72A2A77-4AEF-4547-9274-E1E54C87F834 (resized).jpeg

#1090 3 years ago
Quoted from Silverstreak02:

I bought this from Amazon or E-bay I can’t remember which one.
[quoted image]

So this was compatible with the SprayMax?

#1091 3 years ago
Quoted from wayinla:

So this was compatible with the SprayMax?

Yes I didn’t have any problem with the two playfields I used it on. It was used to fill some badly cupped inserts. I filled them a few times to get them level. Sometimes with coats of Spraymax in between as I sealed in paint colors.
716AAFA2-10A0-4913-AD99-E560BB24D979 (resized).jpeg716AAFA2-10A0-4913-AD99-E560BB24D979 (resized).jpeg95E58BEA-1309-48CD-93B4-B607F3D07CDD (resized).jpeg95E58BEA-1309-48CD-93B4-B607F3D07CDD (resized).jpeg

#1092 3 years ago
Quoted from Silverstreak02:

I had a similar issue when using a glass beaker and a glass eye dropper. I solved it by buying a cheap can of regular 2 PAC mixing it per the instructions and then applied it with my glass eye dropper

Thank you thank you for saving me a future failure!

#1093 3 years ago
Quoted from Silverstreak02:

Yes I didn’t have any problem with the two playfields I used it on. It was used to fill some badly cupped inserts. I filled them a few times to get them level. Sometimes with coats of Spraymax in between as I sealed in paint colors.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks! Ebay has the Finish 1 and hardener sold by provisionpaintsupply for $41 shipped. Ordering now.

I saw your post about your playfield. That's an amazing job, not just on the clear coat but also on the restoration. Congrats!

#1094 3 years ago

I’m looking to clear a cabinet. I know little about clearing and this product has always intrigued me. Could I spray it with the cabinet still vertical or would I have to lay each side flat to cover?

#1095 3 years ago
Quoted from dudah:

I’m looking to clear a cabinet. I know little about clearing and this product has always intrigued me. Could I spray it with the cabinet still vertical or would I have to lay each side flat to cover?

I wouldn’t use SPRAYMAX on a cabinet. I use water base polyurethane .

#1096 3 years ago
Quoted from dudah:

I’m looking to clear a cabinet. I know little about clearing and this product has always intrigued me. Could I spray it with the cabinet still vertical or would I have to lay each side flat to cover?

I did a matte finish 2k and it was vertical.

#1097 3 years ago

I am trying to find information on using Spray Max 2k to fill in some worn out areas on my Fish Tales playfield. Plan is to use a dropper to fill in worn out areas by collecting some of the clear into a small container so I can use the dropper to "suck up" some of the clear. Can anyone here lead me to a thread# that goes into more detail about this process?

#1098 3 years ago
Quoted from Blenderhead:

I am trying to find information on using Spray Max 2k to fill in some worn out areas on my Fish Tales playfield. Plan is to use a dropper to fill in worn out areas by collecting some of the clear into a small container so I can use the dropper to "suck up" some of the clear. Can anyone here lead me to a thread# that goes into more detail about this process?

^^^ See directly above -- just use regular clear. There's no benefit to using SprayMax 2K in this case.

#1099 3 years ago
Quoted from dr_nybble:

^^^ See directly above -- just use regular clear. There's no benefit to using SprayMax 2K in this case.

Should I NOT use a small rubber dropper? (which I'm planning on if ok)

#1100 3 years ago
Quoted from wayinla:

Hi all. Hoping someone can help! Bubbles on inserts! I've read the posts and tried what people have suggested but still have the bubbles issue.
The clear looks good when dripped onto the insert but when it dries there are bubbles. I tried letting the clear sit in its container for a few minutes (even for a day, covered) and still get the same results. I've had to dremel out the clear and start over a couple of times.
One thing that I've noticed is that when I put the (plastic) eye dropper into the clear, the clear start to react by almost fizzing. Same with a wooden stick. So I let the clear sit over night in a little covered container and the next day the liquid was bubble free and didn't react to the wooden stick. So I applied it to the insert and still had bubbles when it dried. Temps were just over 70 degrees F.
Is there some kind of chemical reaction? I can't get naphtha in California so I've using alcohol to wipe down the playfield as I sand. Could that be causing it? Would mineral spirits be better? It also seems that tiny drops don't bubble but larger areas (insert size about 1") seems to have the problem.

Perhaps there is some sort of residue on the eyedropper? I always clean mine with lacquer thinner before I use them.

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