You don't plan on sanding that flat to get the wrinkles out? Your post sounds like you want to just let it dry and then just spray it again. My apologies if I misunderstood

so whats funny is the surface is as flat as can be, if you look from an angle it looks like glass, but that texture that you see seems to be under the surface. So it sounds like i need to sand it all off it thats the case?

Screw it, ill just sand it with 800 tomorrow and lay another coat on friday if it works it works, if not im used to this not working out so whatever. I'll report back Saturday morning with good or bad news

Can you put an opened can of 2k into the refrigerator to extend its life?

Yes, some guys report putting it in the freezer for weeks too.

I have half a can in the mini fridge in my basement

Putting an already mixed can in the freezer sounds like a penny wise pound foolish decision. I personally would not jeopardize hours of work just to save half of a $20 can of 2PAC.

Yeah I didn't mean for like weeks or months, just like if you can get an extra day or two out of it.

That’s exactly what I was wanting to get out of it. Just enough buy more time.
On Tuesday as I did the saucer I also sprayed a test board to get the feel of the can. So I took that board and sanded it last night. Today I took my can from Tuesday out of the fridge and laid down an application the same way I did on Tuesday but instead of waiting 15 minutes between coats I only waited about five. Minus the impact craters in the wood from doing a drop test a few weeks ago this application looks like glass and has dried like glass too. So what I’ve learned here is this stuff can be laid down one day, sanded the next day and coats added on day 2 with no wrinkles or other issues.

Sanded after 1 day
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3 passes 1 day after sanding.
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Ignore the crater like mentioned before.
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Saucer sanded with 800 grit and now I’ll give it 24 hours for the exposed sanded clear to dry and tomorrow I’ll finish this up. But tomorrow I’m using a new can. I’m not going to experiment with how long this refrigerator practice works.
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Edit after posting this I realized I should sand around that lip to give the new clear something to bite on to.

Question?
What are you trying to do with the center eject to a Bally Mata Hari?
Just curious.
Regards.

I restored a Mata Hari last year, had it clear coated. The clear ghosted over almost all the inserts and several other parts of the playfield. So I’m taking this extra blown out playfield and getting it ready for a hardtop.

This thread explains where painting the saucer black originally came from:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/did-i-ruin-my-playfield-by-accidentally-sanded-down-to-the-next-ply

This thread is for the full restoration:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/i-thought-she-was-a-dirty-girl-before-i-stripped-her-down

I’m only clearing the saucer and shooter lane because I’m not risking the same thing happening to the inserts again under the hardtop.

I am going to bite the bullet and get a air system. I’ve tried several different masks and filters and I can still smell the stuff when I spray.

I was thinking of this one, not too expensive : Electric Constant Flow Supplied Air Fed Full Face Gas Mask Respirator System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071ZYYBW6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_5UkODbPXMA9T9

The tube is short, what is the point of a respirator system when you carry the filter around with you, why not just get a mask? I was thinking if I can put a 10-20 foot tube on it I can keep the intake outside the paint booth and be safe

That ought to do it!
I got the higher end respirator from Ace hardware. It’s was like $45. Has the pink filters. I don’t smell anything when I used this stuff or other spray paints prior to this. And I have an annoyingly great sense of smell. I hope this ace brand mask is working for me. Guess I’ll know in a decade.....

Damn, this stuff is really that bad? I find it really onerous to have to gear up like that just to put a thin coat of clear on like 6 sq ft of wood.

Yes. The stuff is really that bad. There was quite a lot of discussion on proper PPE in this thread several months ago. Please take good care when working with this chemistry.

Yeah I'd rather risk raw-doggin' one of Charlie Sheen's ex's than breathe this stuff in

Alright it’s done. Looks perfect minus the 2 pieces of dust that settled on it during the last coat. Nothing can ever be easy for me I swear.

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For a couple hundred bucks more this one will last way longer and won't need to be modified... and won't suffocate you when the Chinesium-Ion battery dies: https://www.amazon.com/Breathecool-Supplied-Respirator-System-tyvek/dp/B00GAFD5G0/ref=sr_1_7

I also really like the blurb about FDA testing that they're really proud about receiving... The FDA doesn't test respirators. Amazing what they'll sell on Amazon.

Sheeeet, no one but you will ever notice. Turned out great!

Lol thanks George! I’m such a cry baby.

Naw, your just a perfectionist. It has taken me quite a while to accept very minute things like dust particles.

So even though I only did a 4” square with this stuff I can see why everyone loves it. Minus the toxic dangers it’s a pretty affordable way for a common joe to clear a playfield and get some really nice results. It’s making me contemplate touching up the playfield in my Shangri La and giving it a go. That would have to be a spring project though. Pretty sure the temps are locked out of range after today.
What happens if you spray this stuff in the 40s and 50s? I’m just wondering the harm of laying down the coats, letting it set for about and hour and then bringing it in doors like I just did today?

I think that might be a little over zealous, this stuff cures in a couple days and their website states the flash period is like 15 minutes. There’s a bit of a difference in smelling the product after it dries versus directly inhaling fumes from the aerosol.

oh no.
This kind of talk will bring out the safety police.
Buckle up.

Today was the first time I used this stuff, and I really like it. I have a HVLP setup for when I'm painting cars, but for something as small as a playfield I wanted to try something more convenient. I have to say... I'm really impressed with this!

I wanted to seal in all of the work I've done on a playfield out of a Grand Prix. After all of my touch-ups with acrylic paint, and the releveling of inserts. I picked up 2 cans off Amazon for $45ish.

With one can I was able to lay down 3 coats with the first being a really light one, and a recoat after a 15 minute flash time.

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These aerosols are awesome. Soooo much easier (no measuring, mixing, and cleaning).

I'm definitely going to get more.

-Paul

I agree. I have everything needed to mix and spray but choose the 2K because it is quick and easy.
Nothing to store, nothing to clean.
Results are equal to anything that could be done with a gun and at $22 a can.

I finished my Jacks Open today. Spraymax works great.

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Looks GREAT

That came out really nice!

I just love the convenience of using the cans. They're perfect for this size of a project.

-no mixing cups, stirrers, filters, gun stands... etc
-no getting your gun set up
-no cleaning your gun afterwards
-no hoses to trip over, or water traps to empty
-only the empty cans to throw out, and you're done with cleanup!

The quality of the clear IMHO is perfect for a pinball playfield, and the spray pattern out of the can is perfectly acceptable. You can still see how it's laying down, and adjust accordingly. For the casual/hobbyist restorer the the cost per ounce of the clear while higher than buying and mixing the 2 parts separately is gained back with the ease of use and convenience.
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If someone is already "in the rhythm" with using an HVLP setup then these cans don't make much sense.

-Paul

I bought 2 cans of Spraymax 2K. Is this enough to clear an Indiana Jones widebody playfield, or do I need to buy more cans? Also, are you guys doing a light first coat of clear on the playfield, waiting a couple days to cure, then doing paint touchups and sanding into the first coat where needed, and then liberally clearing it all afterwards? I can't wait to see how shiny this and vibrant the colors on this playfield will look after this stuff is applied.

It depends on how good your spraying is/how level the playfield starts/lots of factors. Two cans is enough if you do everything well and have no problems, but you might need more if you run into any issues.

And yes, light coat to lock in paint, touchup, then heavier coats.

Someone chime in on this but here’s my plan:

Playfield is touched up and inserts glued back in.
Going to spray a light lock coat pretty much slight overlap single pass then wait 15 minute.
Do a second light coat with slight over pass in a perpendicular direction. Wait 15 minutes.
Then lay down a hammer coat and basically just empty the can.

Wait a week. Sand playfield with 500 grit. Not to level just give tooth for next can.

Repeat process again 2 days after sanding.

Sand to level, then apply water slide decals and repeat the process to cover the decals.

Sand, cut, polish, buff, wax and so on

Sounds good!

I only got a 1st light coat, and a heavier 2nd coat with one can. (maybe a little more after the 2nd coat) I overlapped each pass with the nozzle by 1/2 of the previous pass. All passes were done length wise.

You'll really see any imperfections after these 2 coats. Mostly around each insert. Do DOT try to fill these gaps in with the can! It is way too thin, and will pool around the inserts making it worse. If you do have to fill in any inserts I recommend getting a quart of clear and pint of hardener, and filling them in with an eyedropper.

At this point is where I'd lay down any decals of any more touch-ups.

I let mine sit for a day before I sanded to flatness. Then followed by an additional 2 coats to completion.

It's funny this topic came up because I just ordered another 4 cans about 5 minutes ago to lay some clear on a Cyclone playfield I just got.

-Paul

What are you using in the eye dropper?

I'm using a clear with a hardener in the eyedroppers. It is not the clear out of the SprayMax can, because it is too thin.

Yeah I meant product name and details

Oh..

https://www.amazon.com/Restoration-Shop-Gloss-Urethane-Hardener/dp/B00BLBR9KQ/ref=pd_ys_c_rfy_rp_m_289_1

Here's a pic of some inserts filled in with this clear after I laid down the 1st 2 coats to lock down the art, and touch-ups.

IMG_20191023_134004876_HDR (resized).jpg

I let this sit 24 hours before I sanded it flat again, and laid down the last 2 coats of clear.

-Paul

Nice!
Thanks

I have had good luck spraying the Spraymax into a small cup and then using an eyedropper. Filled some pretty big divots in my Hearts and Spades that way.

I too have used spray max to fill low inserts. I also sprayed it into a cup.
I used a popsicle stick dipped into cup. It works without bubbles but would probably would be insufficient quantity for really deep inserts.
It also will fill the seams around inserts but IMO, the delivery is not very controlled so there is additional sanding.
YMMV

Hi anyone here who has don’t a apron?
Would love to see pictures and/or here tips?

I tried that too, and it did work filling in cupped inserts and divots.

The seams around the inserts is where I had trouble with the can. I'd "lay a bead" of clear along the seam using an eyedropper, and it appeared to look OK. When I came back 15 minutes later it wicked down past the insert onto the floor beneath the playfield leaving behind high spots on each side. It was a mess! It happened on mostly larger inserts where the epoxy holding them in didn't quite cover the entire circumference of the insert. It wicked down, and found a space.

When I mixed my own clear it filled them in no problem.

I'm still learning as I go.

-Paul

I bought enough gear and supplies for HVLP and clear coating but the more I read this thread maybe I should try this due to zero prep and cleanup (with respect to an HVLP gun). It’s very time consuming.

My only thought is it seems wasteful if I were to spray a light lockdown layer prior to touchups. Then it will take several days to do all the touchups so I’d waste most of a can. As of now I’m prepping to restore at t2 and Batman forever as soon as it’s 60 weather here in New England. Does this stuff play well with other 2k clears? Maybe it makes sense to spray lockdown mists with HVLP setup, fill inserts, do touchups and when it’s time for the final clears, sanding etc use the sm2k.

Could do all the touch ups first, that’s what I did with my Firepower I’m about to clear.

I’m sure with my vintage of games (diamond plated) that might be fine. I’m surprised your firepower didn’t suffer from the frisket lifting up paint while trying to paint other areas. That’s what happens on my time warp.

Also I keep reading you want everything nice and level before doing touch ups. But there is a side to every side of advice on this forum so I’ll just have to try one way.

Ahhh I see what you mean. Only issue I had with that was when I did the red stripes on the planet. I repainted those parts that lifted by hand though afterward.

I just cleared and touched up a high speed. The frisket was lifting the paint so i was forced to do the lock down coat.
I would touch up one area only to find i now had to touch up something else.
I have everything needed to mix and spray except the clear.
I have only used spray max because of the ease of use. I generally will unload the can even on lockdown coat because i will spend months touching up. I sand it down afterwards anyway so it will not be too thick. The more you sand, the straighter the playfield.
High speed took 3 cans. That is roughly $70. I know buying the 2 part in cans and mixing is cheaper but where i do one playfield a year, the cans would expire long before i got to use it all.
The results are all through this thread.
I too wait for the weather and spray outside with protective gear on.
If you can find the volcano owners club you can see my volcano done with spray may sprayed outside.