Greetings - I could use your help on tracking down an issue with my new Shadow with solenoid 24 (Battlefield mini drop target). When I purchased the game, the coil for the mini drop target assembly on the Battlefield was literally fused solid and melted. My dmm is broken and I've got another one coming tomorrow, so I was taking a broad approach to trying to fix it. I replaced Q31 and Q32 since I had them on hand and I figured the coil locked and melted. That didn't fix it after replacing the coil. Solenoid 25 is firing properly, so I'm not sure where next to turn until my new dmm arrives.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

I checked J126 on the way out of the house this morning and there is nothing connected to J126-11 and there isn't anything loose in the harness or head.

Thanks again. I'll check into it when I get home. If I can't see where the red orange wire extended, I should be able to just jumper it over shouldn't I?

Since solenoid 25 is still working properly, would the issue with 24 not being energized be caused by this even after I replaced Q31 and Q32? The issue now isn't that the coil is locking, it's just not doing anything.

It will be much easier when the new dmm gets here.

I hope you don't drop your machine again.

Hopefully this is all that is wrong with mine.

Zaza - the game was definitely missing the tie back. Unfortunately that didn't resolve the issue as the game still can't control that coil. The meter arrived and as best I can tell everything on solenoid 24s driver path is measuring the same as 25 is. I pulled the board back out and double checked everything there. The only thing I didn't do was measure the pin headers at the board (I forgot until now). I'll check that tomorrow.

I don't think I checked the 1n4004 coming off of the TIP102, I'll check it tonight. I forgot to add that I did check the following last night:

- coil tested fine (I also wanted to make 100%, so I swapped another brand new one on the game).
- measured the power at the coil and it's measuring the same as solenoid 25. The only unusual thing when thinking back on it during the solenoid test was that they both were reading 70v and now that I think about it, aren't they both supposed to be 50v? Even with the power reading the same on the lug, the solenoid would energize and pull the plunger.
- Both Q31 and Q32 tested fine last night; but, since the tieback wasn't in place when I tested it before - I went ahead and pulled both out and replaced them again.

I'm wondering if it's a logic issue; but, since 25 is working - that doesn't make sense. It's got to be something in the drive path.

So, in summary the changes I've made are: replaced the coil, Q31 and Q31, and put the tieback wire back inline.

This one is frustrating me since I know it's close to a solution and it's just something simple I'm missing.

I appreciate all the help so far.

Yes. The door was shut to power up the coils and test... except when the door was open when it wasn't being tested.

The only thing I haven't tried just yet is putting batteries back in.

Sorry for the bump; but, I wonder if I've missed something easy with this issue - does the Shadow's solenoid #24 need 3 leads going to the actual coil lug from the wiring harness? I was reading the pinwiki (http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Blown_.2F_Failing_Q20_Transistor_on_the_Driver_Board_and_the_Tieback_Diode) about tieback diodes and saw in their examples, the connection being made at the coil and this caused me to question my game's configuration.

Thanks to @zaza, I found the busted tieback issue at the driver board; but, the game still wasn't working.

When I opened the thing up for the first time and saw the melted coil, it was only connected with the two leads. I pulled the thing out and replaced it and then focused at the driver board as to why it locked and never took a closer look at the harness going to the Battlefield to see if there was another lead that wasn't attached. I've been under there a few time and nothing obvious was loose; but, it's possible it could've been hiding in the mess of wires and I didn't see it.

Can anyone else take a look at their #24 coil and confirm if I'm missing a lead?

Thanks for confirming. I've got someone going over the game and the boards so I couldn't check now. The pic on pinwiki confused me and if it was connected at the driver board it wouldn't make much sense connecting further down the harness. I just wanted to make sure.