(Topic ID: 46571)

The Shadow Club

By marsgnu

6 years ago

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  • 6,766 posts
  • 563 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 hours ago by woody76
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Topic index (key posts)

3 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #73 Insert LED bulbs and colors Posted by MnHotRod (6 years ago)

Post #4322 Alternate Shadow Translite and Speaker Panel Posted by Aurich (2 years ago)

Post #4328 Shadow Manual Rubber Ring Chart link Posted by vireland (2 years ago)

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#3857 2 years ago

Two questions. What color would you guys recommend in those slingshot spotlamps , other than cool whites and I want to install a led strip above the mini-playfield. Is there a 5 volt or 12 volt supply inside the cabinet to use for GI like on segas...or do I need to tap into a GI socket with long wires with lots of slack?


#3862 2 years ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

Life will be settling down for me shortly, and Ill get some time to take new pics.
Lighting the Shadow.
The lower Playfield, flipper, sling, I have illuminated with either Reg or Opmax bulbs, but two frosted Matrix white strips,
on the Apron, (or 1 above the Drain), dimming switch, quick connect to GI.
Reason I went this way.....Lower cost, No blocking vision with spots, not too "bright" or "spotty" works with GI Fade and features tied in.
I have done the same on the Back. I preferred a 10" Purple above the Right side, but have done white, and 45 degree strip lighting, which might need a PM to Ryan to get.
Any of these light the right rear to taste, ties into GI, affordable, reversible, takes a couple minutes.
Above the battlefield, I have Grumpys Product, which I need to install, and move my strip/lighting to the front to share.
(I dont mind the reflection on the battlefield, as again, I am using frosted, and dimmed to my taste.)
The issue for many is not diffusing the strip, or no brightness controlled.
In testing Ive put 20" down the side for "Stadium" like lighting, or a poor mans version I have yet to share, and need to check with the Boss first.
In any direction, Shadow is a great example for creative lighting solutions.
As always, Id recommend it tied to GI, diffused, and brightness adjusted for the balance of the experience.

Thanks oldpinballguy. I will try those frosted strips. Never knew they existed. Also how does a dimmer work?

1 month later
#3928 2 years ago

Could somebody post a picture of the wiring for the left lane bulbs or confirm I have it right? Left outlane turns on both bulbs and inlane bulb doesn't work on its own at all. I changed the diodes and it did not work.


20170701_122537 (resized).jpg

#3930 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Remove the 2 yellow/blk wires and put them together with the single yellow wire on the same socket.

Ahh..thanks grumpy.

3 weeks later
#4056 2 years ago
Quoted from SilverballNut:

So just a quick FYI. I was getting really annoyed with airballs from the two targets on either side of the left ramp. A while back, I had put a black rubber for a post on the metal bracket behind the target on my RZ to settle down airballs, so I decided to try that on my Shadow.
Amazing. The airballs just went away. The ball will kick back really fast from those targets still, but at least it's not jumping over the slingshot and into the outlane.
I don't have a pic, but essentially just remove the foam and push a black rubber for a post onto the bracket, then cut off the top part. This gives a nice firm rubber so the target doesn't bend back as much and launch the balls.

Black rubber for a post? Like a small rubber ring?

#4057 2 years ago

Has anybody bought those shadow background decals that are selling on ebay? And if so, are they real thin or have some kind of thick backing on them?

#4060 2 years ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

You mean the ones that cover the back wall with the three flashers?
If so, they are just a sticker with cutouts. Not "wafer" thin, but not padded in any way.

Thanks. Yeah thats what I meant.

1 week later
#4079 2 years ago
Quoted from Pesmerga:

Hello guys, is the miniplayfield kicker mechanism supposed to be like this or mine is broken? In case I have to buy it again, i don't know which part to look for a replacement..do you know which shops has it? I would also need a plunger, that as you can see is worned out, but I cannot find it online..

The marco guy has those parts, I believe

#4084 2 years ago

Has anybody replaced the ring bulb with these..I know roadshow uses something like this .

20170812_010923 (resized).png

#4090 2 years ago
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:

pinball life has them. #7268 bulbs

Thanks. Most of those tiny sleeves connecting the wires to the leads on the bulbs are broken or almost broken. Unless somebody sells those too, I need to solder the wires to the leads. Just reckoned the Leds would last longer than the bulbs.

2 weeks later
#4110 2 years ago

Does anybody know if its normal to have a little play on this collar on the diverter plungers? The diverters bounce off the sides of the ramp and then come to rest a fraction of a inch away. The ball will knock it into its proper position when shot up the ramps but only until you switch them again. Was going to have somebody spot weld them solid.

20170828_165927 (resized).jpg

#4113 2 years ago
Quoted from cavalier88z24:

im pretty sure there are 2 small black Set screws. 2 for each phuba. look around the base. you can adjust it.

I know about the set screws. The round part is loose in the armature. Not very loose but not solid.

#4114 2 years ago
Quoted from tiesmasc:

Agreed... unless the ring in that crank arm is loose... then someone recommended brazing or welding it to me. I tried metal epoxy and it didn't work well...
Otherwise the crank arms are available from Australia at http://shop.mrpinball.com.au/product/crank-arm-assembly-the-shadow/

Thats what I meant. That ring is loose. So you mean to tell me there should NO play? As much as I would to buy new ones, I can have it welded for dirt cheap so thats the way to go, I reckon.

#4119 2 years ago
Quoted from tiesmasc:

FYI: I also replaced mine b/c the inside slot near the triangular end of the crank arm had become worn into a larger hole. You might want to look at that before doing the weld.
In case that wasn't descriptive enough... the slot went from being something like the item on the left to something like the item on the right (Ignoring the dots which are just there to help with spacing)
| |......( )

Hard to tell but it looks like mine still looks like a ||. But good to know. I will check the right arm when I get it unistalled

2 weeks later
#4171 2 years ago

A while back I asked if anybody has tried those small LED bulbs in place of the regular ring bulbs..well since those bulbs are fragile and hard to come by here..I tried a regular 555 LED and it works great.

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#4178 2 years ago
Quoted from fosaisu:

Nice! Not too blinding when it flashes?
I also love the background objects in this photo. Adds to the air of mystery ...</blockquote
Not sure yet. Dont want to wire them in until I figure out a way to insulate the bare wires after I solder them to the existing wires. 3/32 heatshrinking is the smallest I can find and it doesnt shrink enough to pull tight. Also need to fabricate something to replicate those little white bulb sockets.

#4179 2 years ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

I did the same thing a while back except I used a 4 smd led. It wasn't too bright per se, but wasn't as diffused as the little incandescent bulbs, so I cut a few pieces of wax paper to help difuse the light to avoid "hot spots."
Also, added some hot glue to where the wired plug into the "socket"; Helps prevent them from vibrating loose.

I plan to make some of those white bases similar to what was originally there but a tiny bit larger so it will be a friction fit. Somebody lost them and hotglued the original bulbs right to the rings.

1 week later
#4204 2 years ago

Question for shadow owners. Does anybody have a problem with the upper playfield mechanism becoming sluggish? Not a gradual thing either. Just suddenly maybe every three weeks or so during the test on startup. I wipe down the shafts with alcohol,turn it on and it works great for another three to four weeks. The shafts and gears were covered with grease when I got it , which has been cleaned. And the shafts had corrosion , which I tumbled and polished but still need replacing .

Also has anybody tried the "new improved materials" rack and pinion from Marco? Or is it too early to tell if these are better than the originals?

3 weeks later
#4235 2 years ago
Quoted from xsonics2k2:

What is the best way to bulletproof a Shadow?
No cliffys made for Shadow?
Do owners put Mylar over the sanctum lock? If so, is there a recommended size?
Plastic protectors
Mylar where ball drops from wire forms.
Anything else?

I think due to the design of the kickers, the holes dont get as much wear. Theres aftermarket ramps are one solid piece. That would be a must. I think you should have the plungers and brackets for the diverters welded and reinforced. It wont look pretty but better than breaking.

2 weeks later
#4260 2 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

I could use some help with my wall target. The wall target stopped going down a little while ago. I could see no problem with the small coil (SM 30-1100-DC) so I took apart the assembly. Everything looked fine and coil moved freely. I put it back together and it worked fine for a short while but same problem again. In testing, I can hear what sounds like a small tapping noise coming from that area but cannot get the coil to fire. No other problems with the game. Other coils work and fuses check out okay. I checked the resistance and it is 16 ohms. That seems high compared to other coils but not sure if that is normal for that particular coil. Should I replace the coil or is does it sound like a board issue?

Loose wire perhaps?

1 week later
#4270 2 years ago

Can anybody tell me the purpose of the rubber "isolaters" on one of the battlefield shafts. Every so often that kicker becomes sluggish and eventually fails the test. When It gets this way..I notice a lot of movement in that one shaft.

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#4273 2 years ago
Quoted from bballfan:

It looks like your shaft with the rubber stop is missing the screw affixing it to the bracket.

Yeah true . I took the picture before I put the screw back in. I actually had the shafts in the wrong position and switched them since.

1 week later
#4311 2 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

Thanks - so no 555 in the pf? As for the rings, need to replace 1. What is the type of bulb b.c I hear they are super small. Great suggestion with purple passion - I'll likely do that.

#7268 bulbs for the rings. I cut open some red 555 bulbs and placed them inside the rings until I figure out a better way.

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#4315 2 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

Thanks what's the easiest way then to reach the bulbs? Are you saying it's not necessary to take apart?

Super-easy to change. But in my case, two of the white sockets were missing and the bulbs were hot-glued to the rings and the wires soldered directly to the bulb leads

#4321 2 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

Thanks. Assuming they're stock, how would you change them? Can you just reach under then and remove from socket or is there something special?

You just pull the white piece out ..puta new bulb in ..push it back in.

2 weeks later
#4346 2 years ago

Tried "ice blue" and "cyan" bulbs in the inserts. Yah or nah?

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#4357 2 years ago

All of those look awesome!

#4363 2 years ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

Set screw loose? Spring came off?

probably the set screws not tight enough but if they are, check the plunger for the diverters. The collar might have became loose. Mine did. And had them spot-welded.

3 weeks later
#4390 2 years ago

Robertstone407. Cant wait to see how those extra bulbs look in the back. I reckon that will look better than a led strip.

#4398 2 years ago

Those are mych better. A pet-peev of mine is when art on decals is a different style than the art on the playfield. Cant wait to see it.

#4414 2 years ago

Robertstone407. Looks badass. What color bulbs in the back spotlights? Purple? And is there a reason for for not adding the silver domes around the spotlights on the top playfield?

Never heard of waxing drop targets. Only ever cleaned them periodically. If the springs are good.

#4416 2 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

I often use spotlights without the silver reflector domes on my games. Without the domes, they are less obtrusive and offer better light spread.

Thats a great idea!!

3 weeks later
#4431 2 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

I just posted a bunch of Shadow parts for sale, if anyone is interested.

If you do part them out, I am interested in two of the parts.

1 week later
#4442 2 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

Feel free to make me an offer on anything you see.

Can you send a PM?

#4444 2 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

I can, but what would I say? Here's the stuff. Make me an offer. I'm easy.

This is the only thing there I need. Is this one of the NOS parts? If not could I get a better picture?

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#4449 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballjames:

Has anyone made new Playfields for Shadow yet? I would think this would be a great game to do. Really play fast!

"CPR" is doing a run. I think its sold out already.

1 week later
#4452 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinballology:

My bae......haha. Newest pin in the house, super pumped! M'kay.


3 weeks later
#4500 1 year ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

I've got a bad microswitch in the sanctum ball lock "trough." It's the last one closest to the eject mechanism. Anyone know where I can find a replacement with a wireform activator that'll work?

Pinball -life? I think its the same style thats in the inlanes and outlanes. Pretty comon

#4510 1 year ago

Amybody know what this means? New, improved materials? And anybody know how I could fix a stripped thread in one hole in the nylon rack that I have now?

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#4516 1 year ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

Thank you gentlemen! I’ll go down that route. I should’ve waited to inspect the rings before ordering a handful of the small stock bulbs.

I cut open some led bulbs , took the bulb and wires out and soldered those to the original wires. I made a new white socket out of styrene tubing and drilled two small hole through them . Might need to find another way though. The wires on LED bulbs are so thin, the vibration makes the flop around abd eventually break.

1 week later
#4541 1 year ago
Quoted from Parzival:

What coil is everyone using for the sanctum lock? My magnet is dead on, but the "throw back" seems a little weak, especially over numerous games played. I am using AE-23-800

You mean the brick wall thing?

#4543 1 year ago
Quoted from Parzival:

Yep! What coil to throw the ball back to lock?

The magnet throws the ball back

#4552 1 year ago
Quoted from Parzival:

Yeah, I knew the magnet would have to pull the ball back, but my magnet is hooked up to a coil. When I unplug that coil, the magnet stopping action still works, but the throw back doesn't.
So what would typically cause a weak throw back action? I just replaced my magnet. Appreciate the assistance!

Most bizzare thing I've seen. What is the purpose of that coil? Only thing I can think is the empty coil is being used a extra magnet. But shirley its too far away to effect the ball.

3 weeks later
#4573 1 year ago
Quoted from Pesmerga:

I'm having problems in the mini playfield ramp adjustment. Since sometimes the ball falls down to where i came I have to adjust the upright ramp. I have already tried to unscrew and move it but that's seems to be the better position I can get is it possible that the miniplayfield is wrong positioned although the fixing post is in the right point??

I reckon its correct position. Theres not much play for adjustment. What is the ball bouncing off?

4 weeks later
#4609 1 year ago

If you know somebody who does welding, they might be able to add some material to the shaft.

1 month later
#4723 1 year ago
Quoted from the_one:

in da club
But maybe in future someone is selling his Shadow playfield to change it against CPR Repro. Than I'm looking to buy your old Shadow playfield.
Appreciated with very good inserts, accepting wear on Sanctum as always
Pls make me a offer

I am considering selling my old shadow playfield as well. Good luck.

#4729 1 year ago
Quoted from Pesmerga:

Hello guys! I'm having intermittent issues with the main ball shooter..it seems that the shot it's too weak to make all the ramp. I have adjusted it several times, adjusted the position of the ball in the lane, centering the plunger, aligning the ramp entrance..after these changes it seems to work for a while (10-20 plays) but then here we go again..have anyone else had this kind of issue on this pin? is There really a right alignment? Do I have to pay attention to something in particular? The coil is the original one from manual, do I have to buy a stronger one? I have shopped the entire game and now I'm stuck on this stupid thing.. really frustrating!

Check coil sleeve.

1 week later
#4760 1 year ago
Quoted from PoMC:

4 shots away from completing the Final Battle a few minutes ago! Argh!

Thats hard to complete. Once you get near the end. Just keep shooting your balls into the saucers. They will give you credit for targets you are missing.

2 weeks later
#4793 1 year ago
Quoted from BioBa:

I just did a refurb on my Shadow. Have this post left over??
Any idea where it might go. Have taken off all ramps and plasticsduring the refurb.
[quoted image]

Shadow has no star posts like that at all. It must have dropped into a nook or crannie at some point in time. Where you found it dissasembling

#4814 1 year ago

Installed a led strip in the back. Should I mask the part over the small playfield?

IMG_20180818_013517_541 (resized).jpg
#4820 1 year ago
Quoted from BioBa:

I think it looks very nice as it is. I would not cover anything.
I used blue above the mini playfield and red on the right.[quoted image]

That looks awesome!

Quoted from cavalier88z24:

Just got my CPR Gold playfield + discounted mini playfield. I will keep people posted on how it goes. Will start this winter when I'm bored. but im going to start thinking how I'm going to wire up the headlight inserts now.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I want one so bad.. but mine is fine except for above the magnet. Will probly end repairing it and spraymaxxing it.

1 week later
#4856 1 year ago
Quoted from Nds777:

What is the purpose of the smaller coil on the battlefield drop target assembly? It looks like it knocks the target down without needing the ball to hit it. What circumstance would make that happen?
The only circumstance I can think of is if the ball gets stuck behind the target, the ball search will free it.

I know that when you score enough jackpots..the cpu lowers the drop target to the upper playfield and lights the super-jackpot.

1 month later
#4891 1 year ago

I was going to buy a bronze model, now I am considering touching up the original and just sending it out for clearcoating for half the price. Curious how it fits as well though. Might still buy one if the price is right.

1 week later
#4902 1 year ago
Quoted from Pingball:

Excited to be part of the club!
Picked up this beautiful machine a few days ago in a trade, loving it so far.
Plays almost perfect, just one issue I'm hoping someone can help me with:
The VUK fires the ball into The Battlefield pretty damn fast. Often the ball will bounce off the opposing targets and back down into the VUK.
Checked the coil and it matches the AE-25-1000 listed in the manual.
Any thoughts?
[quoted image]

Bounces back.into the kicker you say?! Take a video of that. I would love to see it

1 week later
#4945 1 year ago
Quoted from Pingball:

For your viewing pleasure

Well. Sorry but thats funny

1 week later
#4985 1 year ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

Very cool. Any chance you'd make them available to buy?

I think another thing to look out for is too make sure the diverters are centered. If its too far left or right , it slaps against the sides of the ramp. I think thats what causes the welds to break over time

1 week later
#4999 1 year ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

I’m about to order a Titan rubber ring set for the shadow. What color would people recommend? I’m thinking of going translucent

Tried purple and blue. Still deciding which to use or go back to white or black.

20181110_211726 (resized).jpg
1 week later
#5030 1 year ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Totally agree, Pin Stadium seems to me to be a premium quality product that delivers. I'd rather have something with all the bells and whistles that makes my pin look beautiful, than a budget product that has corners cut just to deliver on the cheap.

The only one I've seen installed began to fall appart after a few months. The best way to use this product would be to route a groove into the sides of the cabinet and place them there. I did not buy because I did not need another thing to remove before liffing the playfield up.

#5037 1 year ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

Here is a quick pic:[quoted image]

Quoted from tiltmonster:

Thanks, perfect, got it!

Thank you for looking.

There was a cardboard thing wrapped around the coil.lugs to ensure that the lugs dont touch that metal piece and short out. Its in the wrong position in that picture

#5056 1 year ago
Quoted from Scoot:

I checked the switch and everything appears to be right. I included a pic to make sure. The game plays great and then suddenly thinks the ball drained. The even more weird thing is the flippers still keep on working and the next ball doesn’t load. I played 5 games and it did it twice in one game. The first ball drained with the ball saver still on and it spit out two balls at the same time. Other games were flawless. The ball trough optos have been worked on in the past, looks like two of the transmitters were replaced at some point. I checked them with my cell phone and in switch mode and everything seems fine. I will hit them with the soldering iron just to make sure. I am about to do a playfield swap on this and would like to sort it out before I do so.
*Edit* I just pulled the trough optos and this is what I found.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I would bet a shiny new dime that the opto boards are the problem. Start checking the traces with a multi-meter.

#5060 1 year ago
Quoted from Coz:

Anyone know where I can buy the little tiny set screw that goes in the base of the diverter shaft? Finally got the stripped screw out, but it’s ruined. This was designed to have the 2 screws hold the shaft in place-do you think one would be enough? If anyone has a link on a replacement, that’d be awesome

Hardware store. Common thing.

#5068 1 year ago
Quoted from rottenrobert1313:

So every Opto is acting goofy. When I go to switch edge test, the game just goes through all the Opto switches. I pulled the Opto board from the bottom of the game and re flowed the header pins. Didn't change anything. Looking at the test report, it shows magnet Opto faulted. Would one Opto cause all of them to act up? The only one that shows in test report is the magnet one. I guess I'll start there. Is there diodes on these optos? If so, then maybe the one on the magnet Opto is bad...and sending power back through the rest of them? Sorry Just thinking out loud here, but if my theory seems correct, can anyone confirm?

There should be a opto board under the playfield. All the diodes for the optos would be on that board.

#5077 1 year ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Also, does anyone have the black plastic that surrounds the Battlefield? Mine is snapped in half

Those set screws are not correct but if they work, why not. That nub is the same thickness of the shaft. It should come out.

#5080 1 year ago
Quoted from wxforecaster:

Trying to help a friend troubleshoot his&nbsp;Shadow&nbsp;before I head up there. As I understand it, The Battlefield left/right motor works fine in the T16 Mini Battlefield test, but the flippers switches do not actuate the motor left or right in game play. Both opto boards were swapped out with no change (not surprising to me as this should have caused it to malfunction in test as well).
I'm stumped. Unless the setting 31 is set to disabled (which shouldn't allow the ball to get up there to begin with), I'm trying to think of a scenario in which the CPU control of the left/right movement of the kicker would work, but neither flipper button would work in game play.
Any ideas?

If there is a problem up there, I believe the game automatically disables it. And if there is a problem with the yellow target, balls will still be kicked up there from the scoop.

#5081 1 year ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Also, does anyone have the black plastic that surrounds the Battlefield? Mine is snapped in half

Have you tried reinforcing it from the back and glueing it?

#5087 1 year ago
Quoted from PoMC:

I just tested on my Shadow. With the Battlefield off (setting 31). the flippers do not move the battlefield paddle. The battlefield drop target still gets knocked down by the ball and then will pop back up. So it is possible for a ball to sneak past the drop target before it resets and the ball gets ejected to the battlefield.
See if the game properly resets the drop target when powering on and if the target remains up. If the battlefield is not disabled, then it could be the drop target not working and allowing the ball to reach the battlefield when the battlefield is not lit.

Also motel mode disables the upper playfield..if a ball squeeked in there, it will pop up and drain. Might fool somebody into thinking its broken.

2 weeks later
#5136 1 year ago
Quoted from msj2222:

is there a post in this thread for a map on how to led Aurichs alt translight. I dont feel like experimenting right now. thanks!

Grab some LEDs and experiment. You might not like how others do it. And also don't be afraid to leave some sockets empty if you want a area to look dark

#5137 1 year ago

Almost finished swap. What a pain in butt.

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#5149 1 year ago

Yea. They look awesome!

#5154 1 year ago

I too would like to know. I modified a LED bulb not sure if my model will work.

20181231_001917 (resized).jpg
#5159 1 year ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

I’m now having an unusual problem when I first turn my machine on. The Battlefield kicker moves all the way to the left and starts grinding. I quickly turn the machine off then back on again and all is fine with no error message. Works fine in gameplay too. Any ideas here?

I would think a opto problem as well.

#5181 1 year ago
Quoted from gjm7777:

I can't get a pic right now, but under the mini playfield there is a brown bracket that holds the kicker coil assembly. Mine only has one screw as the bracket ear has broken off, but I can't seem to find a replacement part or # in the manual. It plays fine so long as the other screw is tightened well, but if it gets loose, the play get sloppy and the sleeve gets prematurely gouged causing eventual sluggish kicker play up top.
Does anyone happen to know where to find this bracket?

I think you need to buy the entire thing , if you can find it

#5193 1 year ago
Quoted from InfamousDolphin:

Hi everyone, this band snapped and I need to replace it. Anyone have a way of doing it that doesn’t involve taking off the diverter assembly? Seems like a real pain.
[quoted image]

You might not need to take the diverters out but you would need to remove the wire ramps. And loosen everything until you can lift the plastic enough to get the rubber on.

#5206 1 year ago
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:

looks like you'll have to take that off and pull out bolt from other side or drill it out, replace new bolt, good to go.

I agree. Grind off the stud, drill a hole and install a screw and lock-nut. Doubt that your're going to find one of those. Put a classified ad out. You might get lucky though

#5208 1 year ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Hey guys, after receiving a number of questions about my Shadow, I had my custom back board artwork professionally printed to a decal.
If anyone is interested, I made a few extras available on a first come first served basis. You can find the decal here: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/73433
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I bought one if these from ebay a little while back. It started to bubble a few weeks later. How is yours holding on?

#5213 1 year ago
Quoted from pacman11:

I think my ring lights are out, does someone sell those little lights anywhere?

I had a picture in here somewhere.. not sure where it is. But I cut open regular ol LED bulb and took the filament out and stuck it in the socket. Works great. Will find a picture

#5215 1 year ago

Put a LED inside.

20190109_173327 (resized).jpg
#5218 1 year ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

That's more or less what I did. To help diffuse the light a bit, I put a couple of layers of wax paper in there, YMMV.

Good idea

#5222 1 year ago

My ramps were tarnished. Powdered coated in "prismatic transparent gold" hope they look good in the flesh

20181229_233056 (resized).jpgFB_IMG_1547143998448 (resized).jpgFB_IMG_1547144004939 (resized).jpg
#5224 1 year ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

Out of curiosity, why did you go powder coat instead of brass plating?
Please post pics of the ramps when they are done. Would like to see how they look!

Eh? Did not know where I could that done local and I reckon the cost would have been astro-nomical. Get them back tommrow

#5227 1 year ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

Lots of poeple have powder coated wire forms, I’m sure he won’t have any issues. Worst case he might need to widen the hole a smidge.

They fit afterall except for one hole. One thing to learn from my mistake however to make sure you put a screw into any threaded holes. One of the microswitches is threaded into the ramp itself. Cant screw it in now.
One more thing...after the swap,my right diverter binds when I install it on the previous position. If I line up the ball marks on the ramp and diverter, the set screws are digging in very close to the end of the shaft and that e-clip is not touching anything. Anybody else need to set it up this way?

#5229 1 year ago
Quoted from bballfan:

Has anyone swapped in a CPR playfield for Shadow?
How is it holding up at the Sanctum area?

I will let you know in a few years.

#5230 1 year ago

Help needed.
I forgot that each set of rings has one three pin connector and one two pin connector. I put both two pin connectors on the left and both three pin connectors on the right. Anybody reckon which rings on either side get the three hole connectors?

#5233 1 year ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

Out of curiosity, why did you go powder coat instead of brass plating?
Please post pics of the ramps when they are done. Would like to see how they look!

I am happy with them

20190113_141725 (resized).jpg20190113_141752 (resized).jpg
#5236 1 year ago
Quoted from Squeakman:

I am still very interested in seeing someones game that chromed the wireforms. I am not a fan of brass and know it does look good with the color scheme of the game.

I bet a shiny new dime that chrome would look good but can't recall seeing one. Having things chromed ain't cheap..at least where I live

#5250 1 year ago
Quoted from SeaLawyer:

Topper is temporary. Remarkably clean Sanctum... [quoted image]

Looks good

1 week later
#5272 1 year ago
Quoted from RockBass14:

Hi Guys, new Shadow owner here. Love it as always! It needs some adjustments, the switch on the left ramp when it diverts the ball to the right, that little wire switch is an issue. If it's not out far enough, it doesn't register the ball going through. When I adjust it outward, it's prone to getting stuck. Would you recommend I try a different switch type (not of the wire variety)? Photo is attached.
Also, the individual I bought this from put some spotlights in the battlefield. Unfortunately the "lamp shades"get pushed down by the glass. The shades then stick down far enough into the battlefield that the ball hits is. Again, photo attached. I had to remove the shades, and am stuck with just plain old ugly LEDs. Are there lower profile spotlight shades out there?
Nothing is stopping gameplay, it's all good, just fine tuning and wondering if you had any ideas.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Take a rasp and gri d off the bottom edge of the shround until it does not interfere.

#5280 1 year ago
Quoted from RockBass14:

I have another common spot where the ball is getting stuck. When the ball drops from the battlefield onto the wire form below it, it seems to get stuck there pretty often. So, I can try to adjust the wire back, which I don’t know I have enough room to make it work. Or, I was wondering if there’s a larger plastic piece I could replace the existing one with to make sure it drops closer to the edge of the wire. Thoughts?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Almost looks like the plastic has been modified shorter. The screws should not be that close to the edge.

#5303 1 year ago

I would change the opto if you have not tried yet. Also ..is there any added lighting? That could be triggering the opto somehow?

#5312 1 year ago
Quoted from RockBass14:

I was thinking this too. How would I figure out which one is causing it? Maybe start with the switches that award 10,000 point. The weird thing is it's happening on both ramps....It also awards 10,000 when you pull the trigger and launch a ball.

Goto switch test and rattle the machine and see if any of the squares start blinking

#5313 1 year ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

Opto looks like it's been changed but works perfectly. I spent an hour and a half fucking with this thing in switch test. I raised mini playfield, wiggled every connector looking for busted solder joints. I guess last resort is I swap out my cpu and Power driver with my I500. Ugh. So annoying.

If brand new optos,then definately a bad solder joint or loose wire. I would say goto switch test and rattle the machine a bit. I read on here about a person turning on a shaker motor with switch test and revealed that.
One other thing . I had a opto problem with a different machine and checked everything. Turned out to be corrosion on cpu board. Worked fine after I cleaned it. If you have spare cpu board,swap it and see what happens . Can't hurt

#5317 1 year ago
Quoted from RockBass14:

Found it.....broken solder on an opto. Thank you again!
On to my next question! This diverter doesn't go all the way over and sometimes stops the ball. Is this a classic "remove and rebuild" scenario or can the diverter be adjusted? I'm sure somewhere in this group there is a post on how to adjust, if necessary......[quoted image]

binding somewhere or set screws are not fully tight. Loosen them and re-adjust them. Make sure that it not touching the sides of the ramp when you tighten them. If it constantly slaps the sides, it will eventually break the spotwelds

#5321 1 year ago
Quoted from RockBass14:

Is there a fix for the start scene eject? Mine ejects the ball across to the wall and it bounces back in and repeats for a while. Sometimes it eats up to 10+ seconds into my scene!

Which hole? Left or right. Occasionly the left saucer will kick out, bouce off the top flipper and go back inside. The right saucer should not kick the ball back in.

2 weeks later
#5405 1 year ago
Quoted from Shadow_E:

I’m restoring my Shadow and am torn between buying a restored playfield or a new reproduction. Any strong feelings or recommendations on either option? Thanks!

If you could find a properly restored orginal, go with that. Better than CPR because not only is it good as new, no need to test fit the mechanisms when drilling the holes. Either way, it won't play the same as it did before you swap it.
Good luck finding a restored original.

#5409 12 months ago
Quoted from pacman11:

Another question, does anyone’s magnet when it holds the pinball by the sanctum not pull the ball back to lock it. Mine use to work correctly but now after cleaning it the ball just rolls back towards the flippers after the magnet releases it.

I seem to remember mine doing that. I think if the switch in the big wall droptarget is faulty, it causes the magnet to do weird things. Or maybe the opto is bad.

#5419 12 months ago

Either way. It a switch problem. The weight of that arm shouldnt be enough to trigger. I would remove that thing and clean it while you are at it. Its pretty filthy

#5421 12 months ago

Another thing. You have to do tests will the playfield horizontal. Things move differently
when tilted up. So loosen the screw and rotate it slighlty until the switch isnt tiggered and take it from there.

2 weeks later
#5463 11 months ago
Quoted from dluth:

Does anyone have a spare bracket and plunger assy for the wall target they could sell me? Mine is worn and the wall won’t reach high enough and so isn’t working. Everywhere seems out of stock:

Keep looking. It probly will be back in stock eventually

#5471 11 months ago
Quoted from RockBass14:

More good info; I don't have that manual but I'll be sure to get it. I didn't remove any springs so maybe it popped off, I'll have to look inside the cabinet for it. Are the parts you mentioned all available on Marco?

I dont think that plunger is available anymore but I could be wrong. You could have somebody spot weld it until you can find one

#5473 11 months ago
Quoted from RockBass14:

I finally got around to attempting to adjust my diverters, but from the looks of it, there will be more work involved. Unfortunately, it doesn't look like it's a matter of loosening the hex screw and adjusting the arm assembly. Everything looks warn out and the left diverter is actually hitting the coil. Check out these videos and let me know what you think I need to do, and if parts are needed the best place to get them. Also, the one hitting the coil is the left diverter and the other one is the right diverter.

Another thing. That arm comes very close to that coil but should not touch. Thats why its wrapped in that thick paper. A new arm and coil stops should sort that out.

#5477 11 months ago

I like it judt the way it is.

#5486 11 months ago
Quoted from ruzeo:

Just joined the club, managed to rip the side art the first day I installed it .
Cityscape backboard piece was super easy to install tho and the seller was awesome enough to include a backup. If anybody would like a cityscape backboard decal, I will send you my extra one free if you just pay shipping.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I would keep it. I bought one somewhere and it started to bubble and wrinkle.

#5493 11 months ago

Me three..if my plastic peice becomes damaged

2 weeks later
#5595 10 months ago
Quoted from Brog319:

I’ve had it up and back down. The problem is the base of kicker assembly is bottoming out. It can’t lay down any further. The thumb screw is perfectly aligned and goes in easily.
Maybe this thing was completely taken apart and not put back together correctly.

The ends of the panels at the back are not alligned on mine and it should be that way. Wiggle it a bit side to side and it should seat fine. Roll a ball down at the back and if it rolls smoothly, its in right

1 week later
#5647 10 months ago

I made these for the headlights. Just broke opened up a led bulb and soldered leads on.

20190426_200139 (resized).jpg
3 weeks later
#5732 9 months ago
Quoted from Stuieb84:

The new clear coat gold level playfield arrived in the mail. This thing is like glass. The photos don't do it justice- I had no idea it would turn out so well.[quoted image][quoted image]

Make sure you put some mylar by the sanctum wall. It don't long to get divits there.

#5750 9 months ago
Quoted from Graysonsdad:

Does anyone know of a video out there on how to best take apart the ramps?
My left ramp needs a couple welds. I was going to leave it for now but while changing my rubbers I accidentally knocked off one of the wires going to the entry opto. Since I now need to also get in there to get to the opto I figure now is the time to take it all apart and take it to a weld shop. Thanks

I believe you remove the divertors first. Loosen or remove the wire ramps and then the screws holding the metal ramps. Its not that difficult

1 week later
#5780 8 months ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

It’s not cleanly hitting the ball. It could have loose screws on the solenoid, or could be misaligned (so only hits the ball properly sometimes).

Or simple as a cracked coil sleeve?

1 week later
#5806 8 months ago
Quoted from Jimmyhonda:

Hello, the slo mo didn’t reveal anything. It seems to lack enough power to get the ball up the wireform every few shots. I’m stumped on this.

Change coil sleeve

2 weeks later
#5922 7 months ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Im loving mine so far. Very fun, satisfying shots. Modes that stack. Hard to accomplish wizard mode. Easter egg secret mode. It has it all.
Got mine playing nice tonight. Then i went and scratched the inner right side of the cab when one of the pivot latches didnt click all the way. Im still learning this service system....
Im planning on tilt art blades any ways, but a tough lesson was learned. Now maybe I will be more careful when i have the blades installed.
Im still getting ball hang ups here out of the battlefield. Is it normal? No one replied. Im leveled side to side and im above the manual’s recommendation for pitch. It still feels a tint bit floaty but Im going to leave it here for now:
[quoted image][quoted image]

Could you take better picture with flash. It looks like its resting on a part of the kicker assembly. But the game is programmed to move that kicker side to side after it goes down to unstuck stuff like that

#5965 7 months ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Having an issue with my game. When the ball leaves the battlefield, the kicker is still moving with the flippers. It's like the game doesn't know the ball has exited. Is there a switch or opto somewhere to check this?

Is it kicking as well?

#5988 7 months ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Ok Pinsiders - need some help here. Found this stuff in the cabinet floating around and need to know if it is part of my game or not. If so, where does it go?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Those are not shadow parts.

#6042 7 months ago
Quoted from flipordie:

Just got my shadow
has anyone experienced switches going off battlefield when it's moving back and forth? looks like 2 switches are being pushed?

Those two switches are the optos.. telling the paddle to stop at the end of the rack .

#6076 7 months ago
Quoted from Jimmyhonda:

Lift up Mini Playfield and make sure your kicker slides back and forth really smooth. Make sure you clean off the two metal guides. Operators used to lube those, but that’s a bad idea. They can get gummed up that way. Make sure the two metal guides are tight and solid as well. I had a similar issue and one of my guides was compromised. The rubber piece on the end was ripped. I had to buy a new one from Marcos.

Mine would get sluggish over time. I would then clean the shaft and it would be ok for a week or so. Mine was full of grease as well. They say once those brass bushings get grease on them,they are screwed. I bought new ones and it worked fine ever since. If your shafts are pitted , they should be changed also. But one of the shafts marco sells is too thick for the bushings he sells. Dont remember which one though.

1 week later
#6096 7 months ago
Quoted from dluth:

So I need to replace my left diverter bracket as a bit at the end has snapped off. Following the manual’s instructions to remove the mechanism, I removed both set screws and the shaft that connects to the phurba is supposed to slide out...but it absolutely won’t budge. I’ve pulled it, pushed it and it doesn’t even look like coming out. Any advice?

Maybe somebody spotwelded it on

#6132 7 months ago
Quoted from mikeflan:

Anyone have a guide or advice for wiring in LEDs into the ring lights? One of my 7268 bulb sockets is shot and a new bulb won't fix the problem.

How is the socket shot? The socket itself is just a round plastic cylinder with two holes in it. If those tiny connectors on the black are still there you can do this..

20190728_013306 (resized).jpg
#6136 6 months ago
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

I got to Final Battle on my 3rd night of ownership, and thought the same thing... possibly a bit on the easy side. Since then I’ve made Final Battle 2 more times, but it’s utterly kicked my ass in between. Best effort is 5 or 6 shots remaining in final battle but I’m enjoying it much more. It offers so much in the one pin and really fills a void in my lineup.
I have mine setup at around 7.5-7.75deg and boy it’s fast. If you find yours a little easy, ramp it up!!

The key is keep shooting the saucers they will spot you a shot.

1 month later
#6285 5 months ago
Quoted from Jimmyhonda:

So, the brick back wall goes down right when I turn on the machine. It should go up or stay up. I tested it in the coil test and it goes up and down fine. Any ideas what could be wrong? Also, when I turn the machine on, I get an error message saying wall target down and wall target bad/check coil.

Check the switch on the drop target. Its probably not detected the wall is down.

#6287 5 months ago
Quoted from joelbob:

Here is some video for you.

That is cool. Hopefully color dmd sees this and designs and plug n play version.

1 month later
#6374 3 months ago

Why remove the bulbs? That fuse is GI related? Look for sockets touching other components.

#6381 3 months ago
Quoted from Johncare07:

The magnet test for the sanctum says it is not working properly. Does anyone know where to start to fix it? The brick wall will not retract since the magnet isn’t working. I thought it might be a fuse, but don’t see where in the manual it has a fuse? Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
[quoted image][quoted image]

A bad switch at the wall drop target mech can cause this too no?

1 week later
#6392 3 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Battle field kicker.

There should should also be a paper insert inside to prevent the wires from shorting against that metal.

1 week later
#6429 3 months ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

Thanks, I have about 18 left I think.

Looks like a great idea. Somebody cut my wires to that switch and re-attached so not enough slack to reach the switch if i installed one tho.

#6431 3 months ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

I would add wire. Simple. Game sucks without it. Making that shot and not registering during critical moments. Game killer.

I will see what I can do. Rarely do I play the machine in any sort of competition but when I do, I never aim for that shot, other less-risk ways to get points. Unless x-tra ball is a skillshot..those are awesome.

#6446 3 months ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

So you never do vengeance/super vengeance then?

I don't aim for that no. If it happens, I will sometimes try to complete it. Its not like the switch Never works. Maybe one time outa 15 it doesn't. Just saying that if you are competing against somebody, there are easier ways to earn points.

#6448 3 months ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

sealawyer reached out to ask about my bulb configuration in the backbox. For reference, I used 2SMD Comet bulbs and followed the configuration on this post by smiley. I went and found the post so it's easily available:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/23#post-1931151[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

If you don't mind drilling out another hole in the backbox and adding another socket, a comet "fire" bulb looks behind the latern.

2 weeks later
#6515 77 days ago
Quoted from zrbrt:

In reference to an earlier post: ball is getting stuck here pretty frequently. Maybe a leveling issue?[quoted image]

Thats interesting
. Try adding some washers to raise the right side of the ramp to increase the slope .

3 weeks later
#6594 50 days ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Really? You guys were all about telling me about this and now no one will share theirs? Lol

I am interested in one of these as well

#6616 47 days ago

Mine lands on the ramp sometimes and don't get stuck. Add a washer or two to make the ramp a little higher on the right side.

1 week later
#6665 38 days ago
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:

yeah def not correct

If nobody how they came from the factory then there is no wrong anser no? I doubt that every flipper could have been installed in the same exact position so if there was a particular position in the specs, it would need to be flush against the metal. But even then, not all mounting holes in the guides were in the same exact spot.
And I would not consider that cheating. If the machine was used in some sort of competition, all players would benefit from easier shot.

2 weeks later
#6688 22 days ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

Fixed my sanctum by airbrush. Clearing playfield today.[quoted image][quoted image]

Awesome. Looks like is wasn't damaged too badly to begin with thankfully.

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