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(Topic ID: 46571)

The Shadow Club


By marsgnu

7 years ago



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  • 7,831 posts
  • 612 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 hours ago by Isjack
  • Topic is favorited by 210 Pinsiders

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Post #73 Insert LED bulbs and colors Posted by MnHotRod (7 years ago)

Post #4322 Alternate Shadow Translite and Speaker Panel Posted by Aurich (3 years ago)

Post #4328 Shadow Manual Rubber Ring Chart link Posted by vireland (3 years ago)


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#1608 5 years ago

Flippermat, let me know if you find a fix for this. All the shadows I have ever seen have the sway back and forth, but would be nice to have it tightened up.

Quoted from Flippermatt:

Hi. Is there a way to tighten the yellow shooter on the mini playfield ? I played T.S at a friend's house and noticed an immediate difference. His shooter does not sway sideways as much as mine when moving it left and right. If I place my hand ontop of my shooter I can rock it sideways a bit. Just like it needs tightening or something beginning to get worn. His is more firm and won't budge and lean as much as mine. There probably should be some flex but mine is definatley too much.
The arm is linked 90 degree and goes straight into the coil.
Help please. I can't see any evident tightening nut.
Thanks
Matt

#1615 5 years ago
Quoted from nicoga3000:

How much of a bear is this game to teardown? I am considering trying to repair the minor sanctum wear on mine. It's got mylar over it, but this game is just too good not to have in perfect condition. There is no wear on any of the scoops (which blew my mind), but even the minor Sanctum blemish is annoying me as a result!

It is not that bad. I am about a month into mine and almost done. As soon as I get my wire forms from Chestnut and get them put back on I am done. I tore it down all the way to nothing and this was my first full shop/restore job. Putting new armatures on the diverters tonight and then patiently wait for a phone call to pickup wire forms.

10
#1627 5 years ago

After a month long tear down here it is..... all new plastics, mantis ramps, Chestnut platted wire forms and chrome gun, LED's, new diverter assemblies, new flippers and assemblies, few mods, and a really good cleaning. Will probably add chrome lockdown, legs, and side rails after I get some play in.

20150630_091921_resized.jpg

20150630_092131_resized.jpg

1 week later
#1644 5 years ago
Quoted from PoMC:

What was the cost of plating the wireforms? Will consider doing that when I shop my Shadow depending on the price.
Thanks.

Send your forms + $160. They look amazing.

#1645 5 years ago
Quoted from tachi:

also interested in the price for plating the wireforms, those look so nice and i've already got everything torn apart. doing new flippers, pop bumpers, scrub down, sanctum is painted but not cleared, and all LED's going in.
Super fun project as its my first pin.

Go ahead and email him and get yours sent in while you got everything torn apart. It took less than 2 weeks. Depends on how many he has pending also, because he does it in batches.

#1657 5 years ago

OK, so my LEDs are messing with my mini playfield optos. With the glass in kicker only kicks to the left and right of the mini playfield. Glass off and the kicker works all over. So the light reflection coming off the glass is messing with the optos. Is my only option PDI glass or remove LEDs?

#1661 5 years ago
Quoted from Chemixtry:

I've seen several people ask about how the plating on the divertors hold up over time but I dont believe I've seen a response. Considering having them brass plated like the ramps, chrome plated, or just polishing as good as I can on buffing wheel. The brass plated divertors look great but Im concerned that it will not hold up over time.

He puts a good coat of clear on them and he says they will hold up.

2 weeks later
#1724 5 years ago
Quoted from PoMC:

Anyone have a spare right sling plastic to sell? My left plastic is fine, so would rather not buy a set.

I know I have brand new one I don't want to sell and I have a used one I would probably just give you if you pay shipping.

1 month later
#1967 5 years ago
Quoted from jwo825:

I finally concentrated and got to the secret laughter mode this weekend. It was pretty cool. Approaching 6 months of ownership and I still haven't made it to the final battle or even busted 1B on the scoreboard. I'm not a great player, though.

I feel ya, I almost hit a billion last month. 934 million is my highest score. It is a tough one.

#1985 5 years ago
Quoted from kermit24:

So I finally got my Shadow yesterday and I love it. A few hours into playing, I noticed the upper diverter was in the middle when it was supposed to be on the on the side. So basically it will either be in the middle or one side. Upon inspection, it seemed like the diverter has a TON on play in it when you hold the coil plunger you can still move the diverter a great deal. Anyone had this before? A DIY fix for a newbie? Thanks for all of your help!

I rebuilt both my diverters with new brackets, coils, armatures, and everything. Not necessary for you, but I am picky. I recommend you get with Marco specialties and order 2 new armatures for both diverters. Replace both and it will take the play out of them. While you have the diverters off replace the e-clips on both diverters, because sometimes they can get warped and cause a little play. If your diverter is in the middle of the ramp then you need to adjust it by loosening the armature set screws and realigning the diverter. A loose set screw is probably why it is stopping in the middle anyway.

2 weeks later
1 month later
#2321 5 years ago
Quoted from BulkOfTheSeries:

I dropped the color DMD in mine today and it looks awesome. I'm having three issues though.
1) The Sanctum Wall wont always lock in the 'up' position. Sometimes it fires and tries a few times, never makes it. Sometimes it locks up briefly to fall back down. Sometimes it works. It appears to be able to raise all the way up, but not 'stay' up.
2.) The back row of my battlefield doesnt pop back up after they're knocked down. They stay down. Is this a switch I need to adjust? I think it is but I'm unsure how.
3.) My ball gets stuck on the left ramp too often. It 'dies' on the wire headed to the right side of the machine, where the little switch the ball rolls over is present. Is this common?

Did all this happen after installing colordmd? Or just some lingering issues?

2 months later
#2548 4 years ago
Quoted from PinballNewb:

I've noticed the kicker on the battlefield has started to act up just a bit. The issue has to be related to the optos not sensing the ball consistently. It seems to happen more when the ball is on the right side very close to the opto transmitter itself.
In the switch test I cannot get any inconsistent behavior however. It picks up on the ball everytime it should. Seems straight forward enough that the beam isn't being broken by the ball consistently so I'll continue to try to tweak it, but just curious if others have gone through the same.

did you just install LEDs? Mine did this after I upgraded to LEDs and I could not figure it out. Installed new optos and everything. Come to find out it was light reflection messing with the optos. Installed this opto extender thing I found on Bay Area and it completely fixed the problem.

4 months later
#2929 4 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

I ordered one and was told it was a plastic. Will find out soon.

Mine is printed on a PVC plastic

1 month later
#3002 4 years ago
Quoted from RCA1:

Do you mind sharing who are you sending them to for plating and what is the cost?

I can help you out on this.

Pinball Plating and More
Ron Woodard
orders@pinballplatingandmore.com
615-406-0204

2 months later
#3235 4 years ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

Here are a couple of pics of the habitails. It's hard to get a good picture, but I think these do an okay job of showing the tarnish.
I'm going to stop at the auto parts store and get some Blaster and see how that works.

I can brass plate them if you can't get them cleaned up.

Ron Woodard
Pinball Plating and More
615-406-0204
orders@pinballplatingandmore.com
www.pinballplatingandmore.com

10 months later
#4125 3 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Has anyone ever brassed out their Shadow? Thinking of doing the siderails and legs. Thoughts?

Black nickel looks better. I just did mine. Tried brass first and didn't like it. If you can't afford black nickel try a wet gloss black powder coat.

2 weeks later
#4195 3 years ago
Quoted from Robertstone0407:

So I'm torn,should I powdercoat my shadow jet black or a dark jade green OR do a black to green fade. Picture of my work here

I went black nickel on mine and it looks great. Everyone who has seen it loves it.

2 months later
#4326 3 years ago
Quoted from brandsilence:

Any idea how i can find replacement hardware for the gun grip fasteners? Went to put on the my awesome new wooden grips and realized i was missing one of the sets, then promptly lost the one set i had.
Doh!

PM me, I have a set I think.

#4332 2 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

Thanks. I ended up buying 4 of each type - why not.
This game has really surprised me. I bought it recently hearing it was a true value and with that alternative art package I decided to give it a shot. Well damn if it doesn't have the best upper PF I've played yet - like alleway and the movie is really downplayed with limited speech (although still some crazy lines). It just works and with the updated LEDs, and some other mods, it's looks really nice. Def holding on to it.....
oh - any there is literally no wear on that magnet and it wasn't relabeled (color matches perfectly) - maybe just lucked out.

You got lucky. If you like it now wait until you get to final battle, its such a rush. Shadow is great bang for your buck.

#4341 2 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

Thanks! I'm going to put that decal on (behind the magnet shot) of the city. Potentially adding that mini PF light too. With the new alternate art, this game has really taken off in my mind.

The backboard decal really makes it pop. Mine was not a decal, but a piece of printed plastic. Looks great. The only other thing you could do is have your wireforms brass plated. I also did a full black nickel trim package on mine and it looks great, but a nice gloss black powder coat would be good.

1 week later
#4359 2 years ago
Quoted from tjprice222:

Question: My battlefield kicker does not respond well when the ball is in the middle of the battlefield...only when it’s near the sides/Optos. I know it’s light reflection/glareand I know there is a bulletin on this but the kit is unavailable so I picked some shrink tube. It’s the perfect fit and I’ll cut it to length but how have you all actually attached it to the opto housing?
I could go ghetto with electrical tape but thought there might be some better ideas here.

I actually purchased the last kit to fix this 3 year's ago from bay area amusements. Mine started acting up after I installed leds and the glare messes with the optos.

1 week later
#4372 2 years ago

about to post my Shadow up for sale if someone is looking. LOTS of new stuff and extra stuff.

1 year later
#5725 1 year ago
Quoted from Squeakman:

I asked this awile back and really didn’t get an answer. Has anyone chrome plated the habitrails in the Shadow? Never been much of a fan of the brass. I know people say it fits the game, but I am curious how chrome would look on it. Anyone done it that provide some pics?

I chrome plated some for a shadow one time so I know it's been done. I never saw a final picture of it. Black nickel would probably look good also

4 weeks later
#5845 1 year ago
Quoted from stevevt:

Must have mods:
Aurich translite and speaker panel
ColorDMD
That's it, IMO. Then again, I just bought this one with a whole lot more mods than just these 2:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-sale-shadow-the-66

hell of a deal, I had just bought one with a clear coated playfield or I would have purchased this one. Easily a $5500 machine.

#5858 1 year ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Whats your favorite powder coat color scheme?
Ive seen green legs with black rails and bar, all purple, etc.
I thought I wanted all black but the purple looks pretty awesome...[quoted image]

all black looks great.

#5860 1 year ago
Quoted from lpeters82:

For The Shadow I like the chrome quite a lot. Because of that, it's not something I'd invest in for this title, but if someone were to gift me any option I wanted, I'd probably do an antique brass.

I have seen chrome, brass, and black nickel trim on shadow, the black nickel looked the best. It was mine and I sold it a couple years ago.

#5865 1 year ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Oooo chrome does look nice. Id want to do black or purple wireforms then probably.
Got my game in. Wow, what an upgrade all the service rails and spring loaded playfield hinges make. Feels like such luxury.
Found a few probs.
Left sling isnt firing. Wiring looked good.
Left phurba is missing the spring and its a bit loose. The allens need tightening i think.
Other than that, it plays great. Love the flow on this game.
I need a manual... i think theyre free online right?[quoted image][quoted image]

You need some springs, I put 2 springs on each of mine. Prevents any loose play.

#5872 1 year ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Alright, got my manual downloaded. Looks like 10-320 IS the correct spring. My local pinball supplier doesnt have it in stock. Does any one know if there are any readily available alternatives I could use? They have other springs that look close....
Sorry I am blowing this club up guys, just really excited to have a new game.
Are these the purple domes you all use for the back panel and above the ramps?
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8149-18

yes for ramps, I use the red ones on the back wall but I have the brick scene.

#5874 1 year ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Cool! Hoped so...
Sweet, Ill download it today.
Any one know if this is the right spring for the phurba mech? One guide said it was but Marco doesnt have it listed as compatible...
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/10-320
Who makes the best back panel decal?
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1180-slap-save-creations/02484-the-shadow-backboard-decal

marco has a suitable alternative spring. I bought some a few weeks ago. Let me see if I can find my packing list.

#5876 1 year ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Marco had the actual spring. I ordered it this morning. 3 actually.

cool, I have had several shadows. I always put 2 springs on if there is any play. Sometimes you can have the set screws super tight and there is still some wiggle and it slows the ball down.

#5884 1 year ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Good tip!
Any tips on the ring bulbs? My left most ring goes out unless i push/bend the wires a little on the back of the bulb.

just order another one, it comes with wiring and new bulb. plug and play.

#5886 1 year ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Im going to try and fix this one first. Im trying to save for a color dmd and powder. $40 ring seems silly when I could probably fix it for now.

you don't need the ring, you need the wiring. see link below. You can still probably fix it.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/24-8856

#5897 1 year ago
Quoted from rotordave:

That guy is half way through making a clear Perspex extension to move the switch further along (as per the photo on my previous posts)
Only issue is the Shadow is in my apartment and I’m in my house for a few weeks. So progress is stalled.
rd

think you could make some extras and sell them to some folks?

#5899 1 year ago
Quoted from Yesh23:

I sent him a pm and it doesn't sound like he's going to be selling them if we could get the dimensions from him i have a buddy that could make them

I think he would share the size and stuff. I would be in on one.

#5907 1 year ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Im loving mine so far. Very fun, satisfying shots. Modes that stack. Hard to accomplish wizard mode. Easter egg secret mode. It has it all.
Got mine playing nice tonight. Then i went and scratched the inner right side of the cab when one of the pivot latches didnt click all the way. Im still learning this service system....
Im planning on tilt art blades any ways, but a tough lesson was learned. Now maybe I will be more careful when i have the blades installed.
Im still getting ball hang ups here out of the battlefield. Is it normal? No one replied. Im leveled side to side and im above the manual’s recommendation for pitch. It still feels a tint bit floaty but Im going to leave it here for now:
[quoted image][quoted image]

no, that is not normal. You are missing a ball guard or something under there. I can't remember, but can look when I get home.

#5940 1 year ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

LED eh? I was thinking I would stay incandescent for my flashers. That seems to be all the rage now. LED inserts and incandescent GI and flashers. Im a fan, did my last pin like that.

I use all incandescent flashers everywhere in shadow, the light show will blind you with led.

Lately I have been leaving GI and flashers incandescent in all my pins and doing led inserts and pops. I guess the older I get I dont care for all the. Brightness.

#5959 1 year ago
Quoted from RobDutch:

Just recieved the backboard decals I ordered from jonesjb and they're looking great!
Can't wait to install them.
Thanks again Jeff [quoted image][quoted image]

There used to be a guy on pinside selling this image but it was printed on plastic. I had it on one of my old shadows and you could have a led strip shine down through it and light it up. Was pretty cool. I prefer the brick wall decal, but still looks great.

#5963 1 year ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

It’s not this image. Perhaps similar in style (matching the shadow art style), but I created mine from scratch in illustrator, inspired by some buildings in NYC around Central Park.

I wish I still had a picture. It is almost dang identical, but was printed on like 1/8th thick plastic. You should look into it, was easier to install and the lighting effect was cool.

#5976 1 year ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Having an issue with my game. When the ball leaves the battlefield, the kicker is still moving with the flippers. It's like the game doesn't know the ball has exited. Is there a switch or opto somewhere to check this?
It is throwing the error ER battle kicker opto. Not sure where that is.

It is your battlefield optos. When the ball completely breaks the beam the kicker resets and battlefield closes down. Has nothing to do with lower playfield switches.

On a side note: the first shadow I ever had started having problems when i did a full led job. Did you put all LEDs in the backbox behind trans light? The light was interfering with my battlefield optos. I took out half the blackbox LEDs and it fixed it.

#5977 1 year ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Makes sense. Bigger issue is why the game thinks a ball is still on the battlefield when it's not. I'm not understanding the logic of the game and what causes the game know the ball has left the battlefield.

If it was fine and now being weird after led job you might have just bumped the opto board connectors under the playfield. Every shadow i have ever had had loose opto board connectors. Check those

#6000 1 year ago
Quoted from toasterman04:

wow this is a long thread. But I did, I finally joined the group. Mine arrives in a couple days and I am already compiling a list of mods I want. But unsure if I have missed any must haves...
LED pop bumper caps, unsure which color to go with...
Shadow knows flipper tops, Who sells these?
Side blade artwork
Aurich Translite (already purchased)
New chrome gun - Where can you get these?
Walnut gun handle from art - Already purchased
Apron Magnet from Bill - Already purchased.

welcome, you will not need pop bumper LEDs, flipper tops I think Tilt graphics as them, chrome gun exchange (chris royalty), I want side blade art for mine, but the playfield sits so tight in the cabinet I am afraid it will scuff it up.

What is this apron magnet??

#6036 1 year ago
Quoted from Twister:

Hi,
Thanks for you feedback Terry. I'm happy you like it.
I have received many messages. Terry got one of the 4 prototypes. The first order is not yet completed, I'm still waiting for 24 parts of the chrome plating. Unfortunately, the chrome takes a little longer. It is not made commercially, a friend does that after work in his spare time. I wait daily for the parts.
Since I have received so many requests now, I will try to make a 2nd order, and looking for a different provider for the chrome plating. Or another surface, maybe a black slc coating.
Sascha

is it still plastic or is this metal?

#6039 1 year ago
Quoted from Twister:

It is 1.5mm stainless steel.
If first run is completed, I ioen a list for the second run.
As I told before, I start the list in german forum. So at the moment, I don't know if everyone from the german list will have it, also can't say how many from first run I can sell here on pinside.

OK, I want on the list. If you need some plating help over in the states give me a shout. I used to offer plating services.

#6063 1 year ago
Quoted from Johncare07:

Any ideas on why the battlefield is not operating correctly? The kicker fires sometimes but won’t move right??

There are some optos underneath the battlefield that control left and right movement of the kicker. I had one go bad years ago. Sometimes a wire will pop off the opto as well that can cause that.

#6087 1 year ago
Quoted from lordloss:

We are putting multiple generations of Marcos family through college at this point

yep, but they do carry a very large line of stuff. almost always guaranteed to have what you need and only have to order from 1 place. They are good people and he gets tons of parts custom manufactured that can't be purchased anywhere else.

1 week later
#6119 1 year ago

can't wait, tie it in with the flashers and when multi ball hits it will be amazing

got to final battle last night, such a killer pin.

#6121 1 year ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

I got close the other night. Im worried once i hit the final battle ill be done with this game already. Hoping it takes me longer than a few months to get there.

I have had several Shadows. I got to it several times on each one, except last night was my first time on my newer shadow. Clear coated playfield makes it crazy fast sometimes. This one is a keeper for me, it is just so good. It is difficult but not impossible and has tons of toys and shots.

#6126 1 year ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

I wondered about that too. This game seems very temperamental.

LOL. yes, shadows are tempermental, but once dialed in they are fantastic. I used to hate lifting the playfield on my first one because something would stop working almost every time.

#6146 1 year ago
Quoted from rotordave:

Hit it with a heap of WD40/CRC and hit it dead in the end of the shaft with a centre punch and a hammer.
That’ll get the bugger out. Guarantee it.
rd

do this, get some penetrating oil or whatever and soak it and then use a punch to drive it out. One of mine got stuck one time. Don't be scared to get aggressive.

2 weeks later
#6188 1 year ago
Quoted from Wmsfan:

Anyone have a recommendation for colorful score/freeplay cards? The black and white factory originals just don't cut it.

There are some floating around, but I like Aurichs design the best. He has a thread on pinside and posted the artwork to it.

#6199 1 year ago
Quoted from Happy81724:

Ah, ok, depending on price I would be interested as well

I would imagine they will be at least $200.

#6201 1 year ago
Quoted from Twister:

No, 130€ with shipping to US
But I can't promise if I can hold the price with another plating company.

Wow, great price then. I sent message a while back saying I'm in on one.

#6202 1 year ago
Quoted from Twister:

No, 130€ with shipping to US
But I can't promise if I can hold the price with another plating company.

twister is that a decal on the front or did you screen print that on?

#6205 1 year ago
Quoted from Twister:

But not a cheap vinyl decal, it is a laser engraved metal decal

looks great.

#6210 1 year ago
Quoted from okgrak:

Just got my Shadow powder coated by robertstone0407
Gloss black with purple. Not sure anyone has done this combination before, but I'm happy with the result.[quoted image][quoted image]

looks good, the red legs on that Getaway look great

1 week later
#6228 1 year ago

Finally got my pinshakers shaker installed on shadow. Highly recommend. Triggering off the flashers.

#6231 1 year ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Lets wait 6 months and see how your shadow holds up.

should be fine, everything is controllable, so I have it set to a low rumble. It is not like Stern shakers that rock the house.

#6239 1 year ago
Quoted from Squeakman:

Shoutout to Twister. Got my Shadow battlefield cover and it is even more amazing than I had hoped. Great seller, quick response and shipping was pretty quick with no damage. Anyone on the fence with this product or dealing with Twister should have zero reservations about buying from him.[quoted image]

twister I want one asap. It looks great.

Anyone know the screw size for the battlefield?

#6252 1 year ago
Quoted from t2:

Looks like the bracket is broken that holds the rods for kicker to move left and right.
Is there a replacement or just weld it? Thanks

if anyone has a replacement it is probably Marco

#6253 1 year ago
Quoted from t2:

Looks like the bracket is broken that holds the rods for kicker to move left and right.
Is there a replacement or just weld it? Thanks

also, pinwow on pinside is parting out a Shadow and I believe he still has the battlefield parts

1 week later
#6268 1 year ago

best target decals for shadow? who has them?

#6279 1 year ago
Quoted from joelbob:

For those who haven't seen this tread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-big-is-too-big-for-a-dmd-
If you have the LED version of a ColorDMD you can buy bigger panels. I love them. Pics don't do it justice.[quoted image]

pretty cool, do the speakers still sit behind it??

1 week later
#6295 1 year ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

Anyone know if a darker decal is made? This looks so stupid. How could they get the color this wrong. I'm thinking of having some made if this is the best out there.[quoted image]

I feel the same, I made my own years ago, but no longer have the art. I matched it pretty close using a pantone color book. Was one of the cool greys I think.

#6300 1 year ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

I would like to do this too but my lettering is messed up at the bottom.
Honestly, I am strongly considering making a plastic mod like I did my airball mods. Let me know what you all think of this (i'm not sure it can be done but you never know). Might not be worth the hassle.
Imagine a plastic mod shaped just like the decal, color matched as close as possible, lettering printed on. It would be slightly thinner than a credit card and rigid. Adhesive on the backside. I would shave both ends for a smooth transition. You could simply adhere and be done, no body filler, jb weld, sanding etc.
I got the idea because I am using a credit card until I get this patched. The bondo I used must have reacted with the heat from the magnet and it caused it to lift under the decal. I had to remove it all after I applied the decal in the image above. The sanctum wasn't working again as the ball just fell down. The surface must be perfectly smooth as you know. So I am back to square one. I planned on replacing the sticker because it stuck out like a sore thumb. The individual who sold it to me on ebay is very cooperative and making a few darker versions for me to see which one matches best and he can then sell a more accurate product. The credit card works fine but the edge does cause the ball to jump and hit the plastic above.
Imagine a product in which you never had to patch, just apply and be done. Think it would sell?

I did this also, had about 40 of them made and gVe them away years ago. It worked perfect for bad sanctum areas and I matched the grey pretty close. I just put a couple strips of double sided tape on the back.

1 month later
#6413 1 year ago
Quoted from Heypresto86:

Just been offered one of these in fantastic condition for $2000 with a 2 hour commute, should i go?

you should already be half way there

#6425 1 year ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

I guess I should hold onto my spare.

have some made, I would rather have a plastic one.

Got your switch extender today. Looks fantastic!! thanks

3 weeks later
#6533 11 months ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

It is beautiful and I wouldn't want it done in the brass but that's just me. Having the ramps in brass does not bother me with the black nickel Battlefield cover because it adds some contrast yet it still maintains a stock look but I think it would be interesting to see how black nickel ramps would look with the black nickel cover.

I did some black nickel wireforms a few years back for a guy and it looked great. Wish I still had the pic

#6535 11 months ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

Bummer... how well do you think they would hold up?

home use, should be good to go.

1 month later
#6667 10 months ago

I am trying to find these silver washer things, anyone know a source? or what they are called?

20200120_162300 (resized).jpg
#6671 10 months ago
Quoted from Lermods:

It’s a button washer.
The Hillman Group 2906 Number-8 Stainless Steel Finish Washer, 40-Pack amazon.com link »

thank you

2 weeks later
#6707 10 months ago
Quoted from Daditude:

Does anyone have a plastics set for The Shadow?

planetary pinball

1 week later
#6724 9 months ago
Quoted from mrgregb123:

So is there anyone who can reliably re-plate or "re-brass" the wireforms at a reasonable price? Some of the prices I've seen are only a few bucks less than buying the whole wireform new...there must be someone more reasonable?

The problem is there are only a few places left in the united states that still do brass plating with clear coat.

#6727 9 months ago
Quoted from mrgregb123:

Was the original clear coated? I'm guessing no from the fact that they deteriorated over the years, but this is just HUO...will the plating just break off w/o clear?

i am not sure about the original. If the brass plating is not clear coated it will just turn brown in a matter of weeks.

#6739 9 months ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Right? Seems abot $150 over what Id expect to pay. You think it would be cheaper with the swapping...

that is the swap price

#6740 9 months ago

I used to offer this service. You send your wireforms in and he sends you a set that is redone. The brass does look amazing and they clear coated so will hold up in home environment for a long time.

#6751 9 months ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

Anyone have glare issues sometimes affecting the battle field kicker? The ball sometimes rests on the kicker on the left side for a bit till the opto kicks in. I didn't have a ton of time to diagnose before heading out of town. Plays great with glass off. Optos register fine in switch test. Actually played fine last night. I pulled the battlefield out to clean the drop targets. I have pinstadium lights I made installed but I've done this on four shadows with no issue. For good measure I covered the lights with tape behind the opto. Thinking this is an easy fix, just wanted to have some ideas lined up for when I get back on Saturday. Wanted to make mechanical adjustments before possibly buying a 24 opto board for under playfield.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Yes, my first shadow had this problem. I bought a kit from bay area that fixed it but I bought the last one and that was like 5 years ago. Try taking some LEDs out of the backbox.

#6752 9 months ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

Anyone have glare issues sometimes affecting the battle field kicker? The ball sometimes rests on the kicker on the left side for a bit till the opto kicks in. I didn't have a ton of time to diagnose before heading out of town. Plays great with glass off. Optos register fine in switch test. Actually played fine last night. I pulled the battlefield out to clean the drop targets. I have pinstadium lights I made installed but I've done this on four shadows with no issue. For good measure I covered the lights with tape behind the opto. Thinking this is an easy fix, just wanted to have some ideas lined up for when I get back on Saturday. Wanted to make mechanical adjustments before possibly buying a 24 opto board for under playfield.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Here is a pic of the service bulletin about it. Look at the last line.

Screenshot_20200220-175502_Drive (resized).jpg
#6754 9 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Here's a pic of A-20424 (the Mini-PF Opto kit) mentioned in the Service Bulletin
[quoted image]
Haven't been able to find a good image of the instructions Doc# 16-10112.1 (you need to click on the image to see the full document) - if someone has the WMS Service Bulletin Book 1996 (pages 15 & 16) and can post a clearer copy that'd be good. eBay has a listing for the SB 1996 book at the moment (maybe we should ask them to snap a pic for us ) ebay.com link » Williams Wms Games Parts And Service Service Bulletin 1996
[quoted image]

Yep, that's the repair kit. I bought last one from rick years ago. What's weird is only some shadows do it and my old one did it as soon as I added LEDs and invisiglass.

#6756 9 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

While the repair kit is no longer available, Marco has the extension bracket in stock if you need / want to try it
Based on the repair kit (see instructions in above post) this is what you need:
1 x 01-14013 https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-14013
2 x 4108-01004-06 https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/parts-by-machine/bally-parts/4108-01004-06.html

Thanks for posting, I might grab one as a backup incase my current shadow starts having problems

#6766 9 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

I noticed this too. I suspect that because the original bracket has a hole in it and the extender only moves the opto itself back, it's in affect trying to narrow the light source to only that of the opto transmitting. Of course the original engineers were only dealing with incandescent globes back then, so it may not be quite as effective with sounding glare from LEDs and Pin Stadiums - that said I think that combining using the extender and your straw technique between the new position of the opto receiver and the bracket hole would further reduce the chance of this issue occurring

I have used the extender with LEDs and invisiglass and it does fix the problem 100%.

#6768 9 months ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

Installed the bracket. Removed the straw and works fine. Surprising how close to side of cab it places the opto. I noticed my battlefield was playing slow after. I could beat it everytime. Keep in mind this thing is cleared, waxed, etc. I swapped out the kicker coil. Seems to have helped. Some of the windings on the old were a little loose. I also lubed the kicker arm. I can't imagine the opto caused slowness. Think I'm all set now but will keep monitoring.

yea, I hated how close it was to the cabinet wall.

#6770 9 months ago
Quoted from mrgregb123:

So...I tried a test clean with Nevr-Dull on the brass wire forms......NOPE. It easily removes whatever brass coloring/plating was there, leaving you with a slightly-brass tinted chrome wire form. Doesn't look like you can really even clean these things up without stripping them....
Anyone found a reasonably priced way to get the old brass wire forms looking respectable?

there is not, that old brass coating they used back in the day will rub right off. You can send them to Robert to be powder coated a brass looking color if you do not want to have them brassed by Chris

#6772 9 months ago
Quoted from dudah:

I, too made this mistake trying to clean my wireforms with a green 3M pad. Too cheap to get them replated but also aren’t satisfied with the glossy “metal” powders. Thinking of doing my whole game in a dark metallic blue...

I had one I did all black nickel in and it looked great. Dark blue would probably look good

#6774 9 months ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Im getting to the point where I cant stand the condition of my shadow currently.
I need to do get a board serviced, do the flipper rebuilds, and probably address the linkage on my diverters. I also have a mod Id like to install, but cant justify it until I get this other shit sorted.
Has any one bought and installed these yet? What was your experience? I had trouble with my diverters right when I got my game. I was able to adjust and tighten them as much I could. Theyve worked for the last 6 months, but Im sure the day will come where it wont work again at all.
Let me know if yall have these in your game. Pricey, but a hell of a nice part it looks like. Thanks!
https://www.pinballlife.com/the-shadow-crank-arm-assembly.html

Shadows can be a royal PITA

I have installed these before, twice and about to do a 3rd. One went easy and the other was a bitch. If your set screws are all stripped out and stuff it can be a real pain. I also had trouble getting my diverter out of the assembly. Ended up hammering it out.

The actual part is fantastic and once installed makes a big difference.

#6780 9 months ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

I'm pretty mechanically inclined. I love working on games more than playing them. I had this issue a well. My initial inclination was that the phurba shaft was bent and a slight variation in tolerances with the new bracket was causing it to bind in the diverter shaft. I greased the shaft, etc. to no avail. The shaft on the phurba was pretty straight, so that wasn't the problem. I had an extra diverter bracket and replaced my current, that looked fine and it helped a lot. It was almost too easy to move and I worried a ramp shot would actually cause the phurba to shift to the center of the ramp. I increased the spring size and am back in business. The more I thought about it afterwards I sort of wish I tested the original diverter bracket with the game on (my playfield was removed bc I clearcoated it and reassembled outside the game) because those magnets are pretty strong. You really hear them thunk when activated. I think a little bind is better than none just to keep the phurba in place. These are pinball machines and not a finely tuned watch. Their tolerances are like that of an AK-47 and not an AR15. So expect some slop and variation from machine to machine.

a heavier spring helped mine also

#6782 9 months ago

hey guys, I got to gauge interest in doing a run of the metal battlefield shrouds. Another guy did a handful but has since walked away. The one I do will be an exact replica to where his was slightly different. I assume he could not do all the bends and stuff. I can offer in brass, chrome, and black nickel and can even do some powder coated ones if need and maybe even sell some as raw steel and you can do whatever you want to them. It really only makes sense to do at least 50 pieces. I am thinking they will be $200 plus shipping with brass, chrome, or black nickel plating. If there is enough interest I will pursue it if not i will not. Please PM me if it is something you are interested in.

#6785 9 months ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

I love my Shadow. I’m down for one.

I got those parts today, thanks man

#6786 9 months ago
Quoted from woody76:

hey guys, I got to gauge interest in doing a run of the metal battlefield shrouds. Another guy did a handful but has since walked away. The one I do will be an exact replica to where his was slightly different. I assume he could not do all the bends and stuff. I can offer in brass, chrome, and black nickel and can even do some powder coated ones if need and maybe even sell some as raw steel and you can do whatever you want to them. It really only makes sense to do at least 50 pieces. I am thinking they will be $200 plus shipping with brass, chrome, or black nickel plating. If there is enough interest I will pursue it if not i will not. Please PM me if it is something you are interested in.

I am keeping a spreadsheet going of people interested. Please send me PM with the plating option you will want. Black nickel, chrome, brass, black powder coat, or raw steel. I am also working on decal but that is least of my worries at this point. I can do a gold decal with black print.

#6788 9 months ago
Quoted from Elicash:

Can you post a picture of this? I am new to the club so I am not familiar. But sounds cool.

Nothing produced yet, but it will look just like the plastic guard round the battlefield except 16 gauge sheet metal and then plated or powder coated. I do not want to invest the money if only like 10 people want one.

#6790 9 months ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

How will/does yours compare with the previous black nickel one that was released about a year ago (I have that one)?

Mine will be exact replica of the original but in 16 gauge sheet metal. I think the small run the other guy did had several differences from the original in the bends and shapes. I understand why he did it the way he did, but I want it to be exactly like original. I can offer other finishes, but seems like everyone is wanting black nickel.

#6792 9 months ago
Quoted from Daditude:

I'm interested. Black nickel for me.
Do you have any pics?

not yet, checking interest now. Before i go produce a ton of these things I want to make sure they sell. I used to sell the plated parts, so all that is not problem . Black nickel looks fantastic.

#6796 9 months ago
Quoted from Twister:

I have done the last run. I made the difference, because I don't want to make a replication, I want to make it with a cleaner optic.

yea, I loved yours, but not producing anymore. I sent you a PM, maybe you can form the metal and I plate it over here and distribute. I would rather have a exact replica, but it is more expensive to produce than your version.

#6797 9 months ago
Quoted from woody76:

hey guys, I got to gauge interest in doing a run of the metal battlefield shrouds. Another guy did a handful but has since walked away. The one I do will be an exact replica to where his was slightly different. I assume he could not do all the bends and stuff. I can offer in brass, chrome, and black nickel and can even do some powder coated ones if need and maybe even sell some as raw steel and you can do whatever you want to them. It really only makes sense to do at least 50 pieces. I am thinking they will be $200 plus shipping with brass, chrome, or black nickel plating. If there is enough interest I will pursue it if not i will not. Please PM me if it is something you are interested in.

I got my production and plating cost down. Sent a message to Twister to see if he wants to form the metal and I plate them here in the States (have not heard back). If he does not I at least know what my cost are. I have 10-15 folks interested and want to have some more before I move forward. Looks like everyone is leaning towards black nickel so I am not even going to mess with chrome, brass, or powder coat unless someone specifically request it. Still on the fence about it but if I can get some more folks interested I will pull the trigger.

#6803 9 months ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

I cannot speak for Woody but I think the top has a slight notch on the left top side and on the right side there is an outward indentation its subtle when you look at it quickly.

Yea, just a few differences. To be exact replica will take more time and be a little more costly.

#6804 9 months ago

Looks like there is for sure some interest in doing some brass battlefield shrouds. Maybe do 80% black nickel and 20% brass

#6806 9 months ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

I agree with this, I have a Twister battlefield (in black chrome), so wouldn't buy another black, but I would buy a brass one from you woody76 if you offer that option. Having both varieties would likely generate more interest and potential buyers.

I would need a different color decal for the brass one. Maybe clear vinyl with just black print.

1 week later
#6849 8 months ago

OK guys, so as some know my house was destroyed in the recent tornadoes. I will be unable to continue with the metal battlefield shroud project. Chris Royalty is going to pick up the project. He is the platting guy anyway so this will all workout for the better. He has twister's info and I also gave him my spreadsheet that had everyone's pinside name and platting finish they wanted on the shroud. There are for sure enough folks to make this happen with very little advertising. Chris is awesome and will get things moving asap.

Chris Royalty - pinsider sc93cobra
Hot Rod Arcade
Pinball Plating

#6851 8 months ago
Quoted from attack7:

Anything we can do to support you while rebuilding?

Thank you so much for asking! We are good, everyone made it out safe, thank you goodness I have a basement. I really wanted to get this project, but Chris will get going for everyone.

#6856 8 months ago
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:

sorry to hear about the devastation woody, just glad you came out ok. I have one of the black nickel ones the other guy did if you guys need pics, measurements, etc.

Thanks buddy

1 month later
#7126 6 months ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

Black chrome is incredible:
[quoted image]

the shadow I had previously to my current one I put ALL black nickel trim on it with a black nickel shooter gun. It was sick looking.

#7135 6 months ago
Quoted from cavalier88z24:

So what do think of the blue between the original playfield and CPR?[quoted image]

that is why I went with a restored original playfield.

#7137 6 months ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

They look great. Who does these?

Chris Royalty hot rod arcade

#7142 6 months ago
Quoted from jameshalko:

Hi there club! I was looking for some feedback on PinSound for Shadow. Has any one installed it, are you happy with the product? Has anyone installed the shaker motor, is it worth it?

I like the shaker motor, but have no experience with the pinsound

#7144 6 months ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

I have honestly thought about making these until I sold my game with the decal and found a game with barely any sanctum wear. I still might explore the idea. Baffles my mind how off the current ones that are available are.

I made my own that was really close years ago. It was one of the cool greys that was almost a perfect match. I had a ton of extras and tossed them in the trash a while back.

1 month later
#7237 5 months ago
Quoted from Graysonsdad:

I decided to take my gun off to shine it up a bit. I expected the plastic bits to just pop off but they are on there good. I dont want to pry them incase im missing something obvious. How.do they come off? Thanks in advance. [quoted image][quoted image]

Take a razor blade and slide under the grip and pry it up. I have taken hundreds of those grips off. While you have it apart shoot some paint on those screw heads. Dresses it out nicely.

#7257 5 months ago
Quoted from manadams:

So my sanctum works great for the first couple of games and then the magnet will catch the ball but ball doesn't roll backwards enough to trigger the other opto to work properly. I believe the balls may be getting magnetized is the issue. Has anyone had this issue and tried non magnetic balls for a fix?

I had a shadow that did this years ago. Easy test, get a thin plastic card. I membership card or something the size of a credit card. Tape it down over the sanctum, if everything works then it is your sanctum area that needs to be fixed. If the ball still sits there you have other issues.

#7260 5 months ago
Quoted from manadams:

It works just fine for a couple games so that tells me it's not the area. Only thing that makes sense to me is the balls getting magnetized as the game goes along. Other games that use magnets don't have a design to where the ball has to roll backwards in between magnet operations for the toy to work correctly. I've read plenty of posts where the sanctum area was repaired perfectly flat and they still had issues.

Once the magnet releases does the ball just roll back down the playfield toward the flippers? Mine would do the same. Work sometimes and then stop. Almost like the area gets hot or something and the ball sits in a divot or something. I just printed up some sanctum covers on a clear plastic and it fixed the problem until I sold it.

#7265 5 months ago
Quoted from manadams:

It will sometimes just stay there and sometimes roll down the playfield. There is a small divot that the previous owner covered with a sanctum overlay, just think it would not work from the beginning if the divot was the issue. What plastic did you use?

that is exactly what mine did. Do you have a old credit card sized plastic card? or just use your drivers license. temporarily tape it down on the sanctum area just for testing.

your sanctum area will need to be fixed. this is a very common shadow problem. my buddies is currently doing it and he just taped a plastic card down so he could play it until he gets fixed.

#7267 5 months ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

Has anyone tried grafting a thin stainless steel sheet onto the playfield directly into the sanctum? Very thin, non-magnetic (sort of like the material used to make cliffys) and supported with epoxy, it could be the final word in playfield wear in that area. My machine has very little wear, so I'm not going to do this - yet - but up the road, it might be the answer. The magnet will still hold the ball since it would be thin, and it'd likely never wear out.

I had some sanctum art printed on a thin clear plastic and used double sided sticky tape and it worked for years before I sold it. It looked better than the decal because I actually matched the grey on the playfield.

#7270 5 months ago
Quoted from NPO:

You could try this product:
[quoted image]
That is what I use instead of mylar because if I mess it up, I can gently pull it off the playfield without risk of artwork damage.

might work, but from my experience in needs something a little thicker.

1 week later
#7288 5 months ago
Quoted from colonel_caverne:

I was wondering if there was a chance that this decal could be a plastic?
Sorry to ask, just not a big fan of inner sticker (background, blades...)

there used to be one very similar that was on clear plastic. It was awesome and much easier to install.

2 weeks later
#7319 4 months ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

The Shadow returns! Very happy to be back in the club after selling to a friend last year. One advantage of selling to someone you know!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

that playfield looks nice man

1 month later
#7454 84 days ago
Quoted from Sonic:

A little bit of a teaser, but on M&M Creations whiteboard we had a solution for a Shadow to explore. Finally a couple a weeks ago - someone came forward asking for a solution via an MRS to the infamous left ramp/diverted to the right switch register issue. Well, it took a lot of R&D, but we think we nailed it and it's out for beta testing with wmsfan if all is good - we'll begin offering the solution next week. I've included some pics of the long-lever solution most folks employ and some pics of our solution installed and by itself for visualization.
Thanks!
Matt
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

sweet. I am in on this

#7466 82 days ago
Quoted from Sonic:

$30 plus shipping....

Go ahead and get me on list. I for sure want one.

#7481 79 days ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Thank you!
And fair, just enthused to have my second pin to put with my Shadow. I’ve been part of this thread community for a few years now and have hopefully supported fellow Shadow owners to have generated good will and trust to not be bragging.

not bragging at all. about time you added a second pin.

#7484 78 days ago
Quoted from MG7322:

Just thinking about the Battlefield plastic replacement? I’m about ready to tear down my Shadow for a refresh and cabinet restore. I remember a list was started for black chrome awhile back. I Will be sending the wire guides down for a swap I remember that there was a project on this as well.

Yes, they are very close to being ready.

#7486 78 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Maybe PM sc93cobra who was making them to see if he was making any spare ones or if you can go on a waiting list in case someone pulls out

there are spares.

#7488 78 days ago
Quoted from MG7322:

I was on the original list for one way back, did I get bumped?

No, I passed that list on to Chris when I started it. My house got hit by a tornado and Chris stepped in and took the project over. It is getting close. I have the decals ready. Should be all done in the next 2-3 weeks - fingers crossed.

#7490 77 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Really looking forward to this upgrade ... might be time for a complete resto
Have you been able to get started on rebuilding your house or has Covid delayed everything?

We are 7 weeks from moving in. TN has pretty much stayed open except for nashville. The nashville mayor made headline news today for lying about COVID numbers to keep businesses closed. he is about to be in deep crap.

#7519 72 days ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Yeah, I hear ya. I can understand how some collectors who have been around since the 90s are annoyed with pinflation. I have no doubt The Shadow was a $2500 pin a few years ago. But these great games are limited in number, and the nice ones are always harder and harder to find. TSPP was a $3500 pin about 5-6 years ago when I was first looking at getting a machine. Now some joker just listed one for $7k today. I realized my Shadow price was probably ok when it sold fairly quickly. And you are right, I was crazy to let it go in the first place...so I bought it back this summer! I will keep your offer of $4k for Tron in mind. Depending on which pin you include with the cash, we may have a deal.

I remember some $1800 shadows

#7521 72 days ago
Quoted from Sonic:

I remember paying $1650 for mine, in excellent condition, a good while ago...still have it - won't be leaving.

I bought my first one for $2000 and my latest one for $4000 with cleared coated playfield.

#7525 72 days ago
Quoted from aFineMoose:

Before I start poking around, I'll see if someone can offer insight: ever since I accidentally dropped the Battlefield drop target with the machine open, it won't automatically rise during play. I put it back in the up position, but after a hit during play it will stay down. Any ideas? It definitely cheapened my 2 billion score last night. Haha.

If I am understanding you correctly, there is a switch arm that the drop target rest on in the down position. Check that, I had one break off and had another I just needed to bend the arm back into place.

1 week later
#7560 63 days ago

they are ready and look amazing. This is the black nickel, but the brass look amazing as well. Everyone will need to get with Chris on placing orders.

20201002_151842 (resized).jpg
#7595 57 days ago

what is the best method for installing the cover? I swapped one out years ago, but had the playfield out of the game.

#7612 53 days ago
Quoted from pinballer3:

Hi Club Members - I'm sourcing parts for my Shadow project restoration and although I have part of the Gun Assembly I'm still missing parts from it. Can I ask if anyone knows of any sources for this or have any spares that you let me know --- thanks.

trigger, spring, and switch is usually available from Marco, the original gripes are probalby around since someone remade them in wood. what are you needing?

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