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(Topic ID: 46571)

The Shadow Club

By marsgnu

7 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 7,791 posts
  • 611 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 hours ago by GRUMPY
  • Topic is favorited by 209 Pinsiders


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Topic index (key posts)

3 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #73 Insert LED bulbs and colors Posted by MnHotRod (7 years ago)

Post #4322 Alternate Shadow Translite and Speaker Panel Posted by Aurich (3 years ago)

Post #4328 Shadow Manual Rubber Ring Chart link Posted by vireland (2 years ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#5851 1 year ago

Looking for a players condition Shadow in the Chicagoland/southern Wis/West Indy area...…..

2 weeks later
#5957 1 year ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

aaaaand Ive lost my flashers. Some time last night they stopped working. I didnt have a bunch of time to dig into it, but I concluded J111 fuse was good, so I am hoping its my interlock switch and not this hacky repair I found on the board...
[quoted image]

Looks like a 1 watt resistor instead of a 1/4 watt (or whatever is supposed to go in). if the resistor value is correct, it may not be an issue, just ugly.

1 month later
#6185 1 year ago

Anyone have a recommendation for colorful score/freeplay cards? The black and white factory originals just don't cut it.

1 week later
#6216 1 year ago

Tech question-

Just noticed today an issue- and I'm not sure how long its been present-

When I launch the ball, if I press the right Phurba button, game goes to 'wait ball saved' and kicks out another ball.

When I press the button after ball save timer is over, it switches the right phurba diverter, but it also increases the bonus multiplier by 1.

Is that because of a diode that's gone bad? What do I need to look for?

1 month later
#6304 1 year ago

It's also out of stock.

FWIW- Color differences on the grays can be caused by fading. But I do agree, the light one is wayyyy to light color.

1 week later
#6319 1 year ago
Quoted from Lermods:

anyone have a template they used for the plastic to relocate the ramp switch? I can 3d print them in a transparent filament. I'd be willing to make them available on pinside at cost+shipping, around $10 total I'd imagine, but wouldn't know until I can figure out print time. If not, I can try to design one.

I'd buy one!

#6336 1 year ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Ok, everyone, the bracket to relocate the left ramp switch is finished. I tested it in my game and it worked every time! The mounting holes are slightly elongated to allow for movement/adjustment of the switch for a precise fit, but I got it working on the first install with no adjustment needed. We also added a hole to ziptie the wire to the bracket. Ziptie is included. I'm also including two mounting screws and nuts to mount the switch to the bracket. Use your existing switch screws to mount the bracket to the ramp. It's nearly invisible from the players view.
Price is $13 shipped and it's now available in our pinside shop. Let me know if you have any questions.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Can you slip one in your suitcase for Expo pick-up?

1 month later
#6454 1 year ago

So here’s a picture of both of the available switch extenders. Please note that the protective film is still on the clear one with the shadow logo engraved. I will not be installing either one of them anytime soon as I have a CPR gold of that I will be using, and I will evaluate them at that point. There is definitely a difference in sizes.

I do like the clearness of the lower one, and I have also enjoyed Lermods products as well. Regardless of whom you use, I’d say that they will both be quality products that will get the job done in moving the switch downstream enough to alleviate any issues.

1 week later
#6506 11 months ago

Can someone with a zero issue game post pics of switch edge test on the DMD with and without coin door shut please? I’ve got this m-fking short in my game that has reared its ugly head and I finally have time to address over the holiday season...

#6508 11 months ago

Thank you! Looks like I’ve got a couple of opto issues

9 months later
#7469 72 days ago

So I was fortunate enough to beta test the MRS switch from Sonic for The Shadow, and all I can say is wow!

No more ball hang-ups. Heck, no more switch actuator that even slightly slows the ball down. The flow of the game just feels nicer! You can remove those 'extenders' and the microswitch- I would make sure the MRS switch does work before you remove the microswitch. We probably have 25-30 games on it with it installed, with no issues at all.

I would recommend this switch upgrade to any Shadow owner.

Thank you M & M Creations for this! Now to figure out what other games could use one of these style of switches...

#7472 72 days ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

So, whats the deal with this? It doesnt work for every game?

The body shape of this one is designed to fit this game in the location that was decided on. I also got switches for my Diners, that have a different shape body that allows fit on the curved Diner cup. So it’s kind of a game specific design.

1 week later
#7530 63 days ago
Quoted from shiffdog:

I installed my MRS last night. It's such a great upgrade - I could never get that stupid switch to work well even with the extender. (I also have MRSs on my Diner coffee cup and CFTBL bowl - it's amazing what a difference in gameplay you can get from such a simple upgrade.)

The difference is big!

2 weeks later
#7609 46 days ago

I’d be in for one....

1 month later
#7729 14 days ago
Quoted from PhillyArcade:

Anyone ever run into balls getting stuck in the trough assembly? First time I've seen this one. I was playing and noticed the ball would not kick out. I looked down and no ball waiting in the trough to shoot up. A little wiggle and the balls roll on top of the coil and it shoots up. Thinking it was an opto issue, I pulled the opto boards and re-flowed solder on everything (can't hurt and saw some crack solder) but I noticed where the balls would sit and rest typically, there is small dings in the bottom of the trough where each ball would sit. Those little divots are just enough to cause my issue. I hit the bottom of the trough with a scuff pad and some wax and it helped just a little bit. I see Marco sells an upgraded trough. I guess I'll have to get some heavy duty sand paper in there or just buy the upgraded one. First time I've seen this.

Not all of that uncommon to see happen. You'd actually need to remove it from the game and use a metal file if going that route (you don't want any metal shavings in the game).

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