I'd like to join the club - let me know if you're selling!
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I'll have to polish mine like that, looks amazing! I may be bringing home a Shadow tonight - fingers crossed.
Run through the diagnostics for all switches, lamps and coils, and make a complete list of problems. Then you can attack them one at a time. That's my approach whenever I get a new pin. If the auto-fire is going off repeatedly, the game probably thinks there's a ball in the shooter lane. I would check each switch manually. Good luck!
Quoted from kermit24:Oh my. The Color DMD is absolutely stunning on Shadow. I just installed it today and love it. Must have.
image.jpeg
I was afraid of that, Eric. I can't buy a Color DMD for mine, because it's too close to Christmas. I might steal the one from LOTR though.
Quoted from Circus_Animal:Especially when you haven't been given the chance to "Use the flippers" because the ball's fallen through the gap between the wireform and the target.
My son figured out that 90% of the time, the ball initially falls on the left side of the playfield. Starting the "bat" over there really helps!
All right guys, I've had my Shadow set up for all of 3 days, and I'm ready to declare it best "bad movie" pin of all time. I've always loved Congo, but The Shadow is easily a better game. I'll talk about my reasons in the "Congo vs. Shadow" thread. I got to Final Battle tonight, awesome wizard mode! Anything over 4 balls is silly, but it's giggle-inducing to try to keep 5 balls going.
How do you all clean your habitrails? I was a little too aggressive when I did Congo, and it removed the brass plating.
Great write-up of the Rules and Easter Eggs here: http://pinball.org/rules/shadow.html
Sorry if this is a re-post.
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:Christmas Present from my Wife, I hope!
Same here - I'm not allowed to buy one for myself, too close to Christmas. Grr...
It took about 20 tries, but I finally got the "Secret Laugh Mode" with a multiball! Awesome Easter Egg. Hahahahahahahaha!
First revision. I'll take off the playfield glass and see what I missed or screwed up. Be sure to click the pic to embiggen it.
Thanks guys. I also found some more cool stuff with the glass off...
Scene ending animations are really cool, needs ColorDMD!
Loop combos are worth 2x, 4x, 8x, 16x, 32x (max). So a 4-way loop combo, for example, is worth (1+2+4+8)M, or 15M total.
Discovered the max points available for each mode, if completed (e.g. B. Sphere is 125M, Underwater Doom is 175M).
SuperLoops (20M per loop) ends when the ball drains.
Farley can't be killed at the default setting of 30 seconds, even with the glass off.
Hotel Monolith: I'm moving this to the multiball section, because it rocks. Also, it's not a timed mode. Mongols are worth 11-16M, and go out when hit. Completing all Mongols is worth 30M, and relights all Mongol shots.
Quoted from Aurich:Sure he can. Stack him with the Battlefield.
Ah! So many cool secrets in this game. I even read that today and forgot it.
Quoted from nerbflong:Wait, what? Did I miss coloring a scene?!? (or more?)
Nice rules map for the game. Well done!!
No, I mean that my LOTR may lose its ColorDMD until Christmas - Shadow deserves it!
The mind map has its limitations, but it's handy. It reminds me of those classes where the teacher says you can bring ONE sheet of notes into the exam, so you cram as many formulas as you can into it. I try to get about 90-95% of the game's rules into these diagrams.
Quoted from jonesjb:Looks beautiful. I like how you've focused on pulling out the blue and gold.
I've been looking to add some spotlights to my Shadow but am unsure how to proceed... Are there any guides on what materials are needed and what socket on the GI should I attach the lighting wiring to?
Here's my writeup on adding spotlights to Dirty Harry, with a few pics and tips:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-spotlight-thread
This post has the best details:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-spotlight-thread#post-701535
I've started shopping out my Shadow. Huge pile of metal parts on the floor. I've hit the playfield with Novus2, and I'm planning to shine it up with the Treasure Cove polishing kit. My one concern is that I can feel the inserts, and that means the clear is thin there, right? I'll start with the battlefield to get some practice first.
Quoted from Glarrownage:That is awesome! If anyone makes nice looking posters of pinball rules/mind maps mixed in with some artwork I would totally buy them! (hint hint Aurich )
Argh, I need to get back to that and finish it, then post a full-res version.
Quoted from Glarrownage:Great work so far, I wish someone did this for other machines as well. It would look awesome as a poster in a game room.
When I'm done, I'll post it as a .PNG file, so you guys can Photoshop it to your heart's content.
I'm in the middle of a similar shopout. It's amazing what you find when you strip a game down to the bare playfield. I try to treat every pin I buy as a project, and then I'm pleasantly surprised when it's nice and only has a few issues.
Shadow is definitely worth the effort, but I'm not looking forward to cleaning all that metal, or putting it back together.
If that were my Shadow, I'd be tempted to just expose the magnet core through that hole, like in Iron Man. But I'm lazy, and patching holes scares the crap out of me.
[EDIT: I just realized that's a sticker, not a hole. Looks fine to me...]
Quoted from Skyemont:Completed tear down done. Putting back together this week. I love tearing pins down.
My Shadow is in exactly the same state. I'm done with the playfield, but still have a pile of metal to clean.
The Shadow doesn't say "Attack!", does it?
I got Super-Vengeance once playing in a tournament. Not the safest strategy, but I won that round. The ramps aren't hard once you get "dialed in" to the game. I got to the wizard mode in the first week of owning the game - one of the nice things about TS. It's not like Valinor, which I'll never ever see.
Quoted from grandy:This is a problem mine had. Deflection from the broken ramps absorbed momentum and kept a lot of ramp shots from going in. Replaced with these amazing ramps from Mantis http://www.mantisamusements.com/shadow.htm and don't have that problem any more.
Ugh, I wish I didn't know those existed! Just a matter of time now. $$$
I've been trying various LEDs in my game's GI, and I noticed something odd. When the game is in attract mode (or playing), the LEDS flicker badly (all brands). But as soon as I go into Diagnostics mode, they become rock solid. I suspect this is because Shadow, like Congo, varies the level of GI lighting for effects. So it seems like my choices are to (a) get a GI-OCD board, or (b) go back to incandescent. Did anybody else come to that conclusion?
Quoted from Aurich:Shadow definitely can ghost.
Are you sure? I'm using a bunch of different LEDs in inserts right now, and none of them seem to ghost. I'll have to watch them more closely.
I've been cleaning/shopping my Shadow for the last 2 days. This is the biggest shop job I've ever done. Cleaning the habitrails with Flitz and a microfiber cloth is working great, but it's so damned tedious. There must be 8 feet of habitrail on this game, but the twists and turns are the worst part.
I'm not quite ready for "victory laps", but the topside is all back together (except for phurbas), and she's a beauty! For now, it's #44 bulbs with a little assistance from the overhead lights. The gameroom is still nicely dim. BTW, that pile of habitrails took me 4 freakin' hours to clean!!
I think the wireforms are chromed steel. On mine, the yellow came off really easily. I'm kinda liking the silver look.
Seems like a no-brainer, so much beautiful shiny metal in Shadow. I'm planning to try PinBlades in mine.
Both sounds like mechanical issues. I would disassemble both the phurba and the gun and clean / realign the parts.
BTW, I highly recommend getting a set of T-handle allen wrenches like this, as well as a set of smaller ones with a right angle that aren't in a bundle together.
The backbox lighting is perfect, but I don't like seeing so much purple on the playfield...just my personal preference. I started with different colors for the mode inserts (e.g. Farley Claymore) but went back to white. I promise to post pics of mine when I'm done so people can pick mine apart. . I wound up going with #44 bulbs in the GI, and color-matched LEDs for the inserts.
Quoted from Aurich:High 2s low 3s generally. Best bargain in pinball if you ask me.
They're all creeping up though, because some dude is selling a must-have translite / speaker panel combo.
It seems like the longer I own this game, the harder it is to hit the saucer to start a mode. Is it just me?
The reason I suspect the power rather than the flipper mechs is that I had a problem with the plunger coil being too weak to make it over the hill to the right habitrail. I "solved" that by bending the coil stop back just a bit. The coil voltage is correct. Coil power is about current too, right? I'll report back after fixing the problems the right way.
Quoted from PinballNewb:I don't have an issue with balls flying out of the wireform. I will say that maybe 15% of the time or so the switch will not register. Usually when it's the last shot needed to complete Vengeance! If I bend the switch out too much though the ball has a tendency to get stuck on weaker / not as clean ramp shots.
Same here; it's a trade-off. I think the only "final" solution is to mount the switch at the end of the wireform, just ahead of the junction with the right inlane wireform.
Quoted from Pinbally_1968:Any idea which fuse I should check?
Why not check all of them?
Quoted from jonesjb:I like the ornate Chinese dragon design on the back wall
Good eye - I'd love to have this myself.
Quoted from jonesjb:Have you played POTC much, it has limited replayability.
It's all in the eye of the beholder. I've played POTC quite a lot, and it never gets old for me. Different strokes...
Quoted from DefaultGen:I get pretty jazzed when I get a 4 way combo.
So does Tim Curry
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