(Topic ID: 46571)

The Shadow Club

By marsgnu

6 years ago

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  • 6,740 posts
  • 562 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 14 hours ago by woody76
  • Topic is favorited by 194 Pinsiders


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2 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #4322 Alternate Shadow Translite and Speaker Panel Posted by Aurich (2 years ago)

Post #4328 Shadow Manual Rubber Ring Chart link Posted by vireland (2 years ago)

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#1192 5 years ago

Just got my Shadow 2 weeks ago. Had a few games on The Shadow before and liked it, especially the speed - but i must say, after playing it for two weeks now, that this game is insanely good! Lengths better than expected.

I'm usually not over the top exited when getting a new game but this one is just blowing me away. Yesterday i startet & completed Super Vengeance, from there directly into the right loop, followed by 6 Shadow loops and ending in Kahn Multiball. This must have been the coolest combo-experence i ever had playing any game. The speed, the flow, pinball orgasm!

Some pins feel like they are made just for you and for me The Shadow nails it. Happy to be in the club.

#1195 5 years ago
Quoted from CK1972:

Imho this pin is by far underrated but the good thing is that this keeps the prices low for beginners.
By the way: have you already bought Aurichs translite package? It's really awesome and worth the money!

I knowingly pretty much overpaid on mine, but it's in adorable condition, there is virtually no Sanctum wear, mylar was applied to that area directly after pulling it out of the box. Cab is also flawless. Plus it had Aurich's art package and PDI-glass already on it. Waiting for the Pinball-Pro speakers now to make it perfect.

The funny thing is that my girlfriend wants me to install the original translite! WTF????
She loves the machine and plays the crap out of it, so her request needs to be heard. But i just can't bring myself to change it.

(Pics are from the seller and not very complimentary, in real life the condition is amazing)


#1200 5 years ago
Quoted from CK1972:

No way- stand like you're made of stone

I told her yesterday that changing translites is an extremely delicate procedure especially if it was already changed once before and i don't want to risk ruining the artwork...ha ha ha...and she believed me. Case closed.

Gonna burn in hell for lying, but that's worth it i guess...

Also did a power drain and a whole bunch of cows made a stampede on the DMD, kinda funny. Seems to be an easter egg? What did i do to trigger that? Can't seem to reproduce it.

#1202 5 years ago

Cool thanks!

Gotta try this one tonight: "Pull the trigger in the Video mode to clear the screen for a few seconds, but watch out when the Purba´s return! This only works once per Video mode."

3 weeks later
#1233 5 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Loosen the screws that secure the right side of the ramp and retighten it pulled all the way to the right hand side.
It only takes a few mm and all will be right with the world again.
(I just did this a few weeks ago on a customer's machine)

Thank you so much!!!!

I've been trying to solve this literally since weeks. Rebuilt the diverter, tried endless amounts of diverter settings, made slo-mo videos, startet a thread in the german forum with loads of tips. But this is the one that solved the problem in 10 minutes!

1 month later
#1272 5 years ago
Quoted from Glarrownage:

Does anyone know where to get the city-scape back board decal? I saw one on RonB's Shadow and I think it was mentioned he got it on e-bay but I can't find them anywhere. Anyone have a lead on these?

Since The Shadow is a very dark pin (like STTNG) I'd recommend the lighted backboard. Available in standard (factory) look or just as a brick wall (which I personally prefer): http://einzelart.de/category/backboards/shadow/

#1277 5 years ago
Quoted from Glarrownage:

That's the one, thanks!

That is really cool, how is the backboard lit? Is it plexiglass with a light strip at the bottom?

You can either use your own LED-strip and attach it to the rim of the plexi-board or buy the dedicated interactive backboard lighting kit including flashers & brightness control.


#1283 5 years ago
Quoted from Glarrownage:

I can't believe these lighted back boards are not more popular, they look great! I'm torn, if this was the cityscape instead of the brick wall I would have bought it already. Don't get me wrong, the brick wall looks great but I have my heart set on the cityscape.

They're actually very common here in Europe, guess the price is just a bit over the top when shipping and importing to the States. It's very nicely done with a real diapositive glued to the surface, the light emission is stunning. Also love the one I've got in my STTNG.

Something more like the first design for AFM, right? http://einzelart.de/category/backboards/afm/

I get where you're heading but can't see that coming. It's not a bad at all, but I pretty much prefer how the soft red glow compliments the overall elegant look of the machine.

#1289 5 years ago
Quoted from Syco54645:

So have my Shadow cleaned and ready to rock. The only issue now is the shot to the vuk for the battle field rejects. What rubber should be back there? I see in a few pictures that it is blue. Mine is rock hard and a hard shot bounces right back out. It takes an indirect hit to get in there.

Yep, it's a blue rubber pad. Can't find it in the parts list as there are a few rubbers listed which are not available or pictured anywhere. Should be one of those few "mystery-rubbers", but no clue which one it is.

1 week later
#1300 5 years ago
Quoted from Aurich:

Probably just need to take the trough off and file it a little bit, sounds like a burr or something is catching the ball. Easy fix.

Could be. If not, check the switch in the lock. Often the ball doesn't switch it or it rolls back slightly in the lock and loses contact.

#1307 5 years ago
Quoted from Rockytop:

Quick question for everyone...what mods should I get? I didn't see a lot out there, but just curious if I missed something good.
I ordered:
1. LED kit
2. target and drop down decals
3. the lost plastic mod

Speaker upgrade is a must. Black mirror blades are nice & PDI glass of course.

I actually like the fact that there are not many "decorative" mods out there for TS. Not a fan of making pins look like toy boxes.

3 weeks later
#1365 5 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

I want this game back....I never understood the rules with the diverter ramps. Seemed like too much work but now I'm up for the challenge

With the diverters you can also choose to which flipper the ball will go next. Adds to the flow heavily because you can always feed to the flipper you need for your next shot. E.g. you can set them to support a repeat shot to one ramp or to feed for a left-right ramp combo.

Love how they add an extra layer to the strategy and keep you busy.

1 week later
#1393 4 years ago
Quoted from canea:

So...my Shadow came with Aurich's fantastic translite and speaker panel but is missing the original translite and speaker panel. Even though they suck I'm kind of a completist for these things. Anybody got an original translite/speaker panel they might want to sell?

alec-baldwin.jpg 18 KB

They should be VERY easy to find...

#1400 4 years ago
Quoted from woz:

Does The Shadow really need Cliffy's? I don't see any wear at all on mine.

If everything is well adjusted you don't need any Cliffys.

1 week later
1 week later
#1436 4 years ago
Quoted from rcbrown316:

get some mirror blades man.

Even better: For Shadow, get black chrome mirror blades! Fits the dark overall look of TS very well.

#1447 4 years ago
Quoted from rcbrown316:

I tried those they do look better than the painted wood but they dont reflect the light nearly as well or the balls traveling along the ramps and if you scratch it your f'd

Did you try the high-end version or some simpler solution? Seen a lot of really bad ones, even ones made from clear plastic just painted black on the backside (???). Scratches are kind of the same as with standard chrome. I think they even scratch less because the black coating is titanium-carbon-nitride which should be extremely hard (and makes them silly expensive... ).

#1448 4 years ago
Quoted from fosaisu:

Have you had any trouble with the mirrors getting scraped up when you raise and lower the playfield? I thought I read somewhere that The Shadow has a pretty tight playfield fit and is tough on mirror blades for that reason.

It always depends on the individual machine. Mine has lots of space, more than most other WPCs.

Then again i can't mount blades in my LotR, tried it, no chance at all.

#1452 4 years ago
Quoted from rcbrown316:

pinball side mirrors was the brand. that black will scratch off if the PF rubs it. Unlike the standard, it cant be buffed out. I did scratch the normal ones I have in there now but its very small and you have to look to find it. I think this is one of the higher value mods you can do. It just makes the machine look so much better especially with leds in it. I did my spiderman too and its awesome. Gonna be selling tit too. here is the bladed SM with twin color matching smds in the inserts and single smds for GI. It screams "buy me" doesnt it? It blows compared to Shadow as far as gameplay goes though.

cometspiderman.jpg (Click image to enlarge)

My bad, mine are not coated, it's solid black carbon-whatever-metal. Just checked because i had some scratches on the ones in STTNG and you can buff them out just like the normal ones. I have the PDI version (they are made in Europe).

Very nice SM! I'm looking for one at the moment - but I'm in Germany.
For SM I like the chrome blades better, as on most pins. The black ones only shine in STTNG and The Shadow.

3 weeks later
#1515 4 years ago
Quoted from Asael:

It's still some time until I will get my Shadow, but I am already planning to pimp it up.
This club here is a great help to get ideas. But I still have a few questions and need opinions what will look better?
1. LEDs in the GI? Cold white or warm white or a mix or better no leds?
2. I will put LEDs in the inserts. But I don't know what to do with the mongol inserts, warm white or yellow?
3. Flashers, I realy like the look of the purple flasher caps. But what flashers should I put in there, cold white, blue or purple? All Flasher purple or a mix?
4. The purple color star posts under the slings are looking awesome, but can't find purple lights. So I have to go white or blue?
5. Rubbercolor: white, black or transparent? On the flipper fingers I will use purple.
6. Target Decals, they look good but I read that there are problems with the drop targets with them on?

1. Shadow is pretty dark, so if you like LEDs in GI in general it might be a good idea. I don't like LED GI.
2. Even though I like to keep things original yellow looks better to me than white in this case. The inserts are very bright yellow and the yellow LEDs let them stand out less. Got a picture comparing them somewhere on my harddrive. If you're interested I'l look for it.
3. & 4. No idea.
5. Black rings, purple bats.
6. The longer ones work fine and don't get caught on the PF rim. But I can't remember who sells which.

3 weeks later
#1545 4 years ago
Quoted from Syco54645:

Does anyone have a count for the leds to order for color matching the inserts and bulb types? Only inserts no GI.

You might find post 1370 helpful.

1 week later
#1563 4 years ago
Quoted from BrooklynDrug:

I do believe my wireform is a bit dipped down which causes the ball to fall when hit with some force. There seems to be a part on ebay to replace the stock switch to fix this issue, so that I will have figured out.

I moved the ramp as far as possible to the right as recommended by Vid in post 498 in this thread.
Pretty much solved the problem.
The switch fix doesn't make the ball fly off the ramp less, it just fixes the problem of the switch not (always) registering. You can find some info on it here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-left-ramp-switch-mod

For the issue with the balls getting stuck in the trough you can use one of these and it will work flawlessly: http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=449

1 month later
#1595 4 years ago
Quoted from nicoga3000:

I'm looking at making a trade for my MET for a Shadow, Pinbot, and cash. I'm working on figuring out the value of The Shadow based off of the info I have.
What are some things to look for when figuring things out? There's minor sanctum burn, and it looks like the Mongol and Sword figures (??) are missing in the pics. What other things are worth investigating before assessing the value?

Look for damage on the diverters (they like to break where the shaft connects to the diverter itself) and especially for repair/damage on the diverter assys under the playfield. The right diverter is available, but the left one and both assys are very hard to replace. Battlefield should also work flawlessly, it tends to bitch around on some machines. The metal ramps (not the wireforms) break easily where they are welded, but upgraded ones are available. And I would inspect the sanctum drop target under the PF - it's controlled (up AND down) by the machine and often hacked in some way.

1 week later
#1611 4 years ago
Quoted from nicoga3000:

Also, the soundtrack of this game is RIDICULOUSLY good. I keep humming the main theme.

Yep. Think it's one of the best pinball-sound packages out there. The vicious laughs are also great, but my favorites are the spacy "Hotel Mode" sounds combined with the whispered "concentrate" callouts and the best sound ever in pinball - the "electro-crackling" noise when hitting the shots in the bomb defusing mode
And it gets even better with PinballPro/FlipperFidelity speakers, especially the thunder effects on MB start are seriously impressive with the speaker upgrade.

#1616 4 years ago
Quoted from ziz:

Mine does this too. I tried messing with the wireform positioning but it didn't help. Happens so fast during game play, it's hard to see what is actually going on.

Mine too, but only if I perfectly hit the shot with speed.

I think it might be that the ball is coming out of the solid ramp a little to high, hit's the metal "hoop" above the ramp exit and get's slammed onto the wireform so hard that it slightly travels upward.

It's not really a problem, but it does kill just a little of the smooth flow of the rest of the game.

#1622 4 years ago
Quoted from PoMC:

New member to the club! Picked up my Shadow on Thursday and still need to unload it from the van. I'll be performing Sanctum repair and full tear down shop job.
I'm beginning to wade through this massive thread, but had a few questions.
1. Has anyone installed one of those playfield protectors? What are the thoughts on those? Wondering if I should install one since I'll be doing a tear down?

I got mine with one of those already installed (the PF is perfect). My first thought was ripping it out the moment i come home with the machine. But wanted to play so it stayed, and it played well. Still didn't like the thought of plastic covering the PF, on the other hand the Sanctum is perfect and it will be exposed without the protector, so it stayed.
As of today i have to admit that I love it, it's great!

Always hated these things, don't have any plans on getting more protectors. But if you don't want to clear your PF it is a very valid option for games that have serious wear problems like Shadow.

#1626 4 years ago
Quoted from woz:

Does Shadow really need protectors? The playfields I've seen have a pretty good thick coat of factory clear. Only pf wear issue is the Sanctum which we all know about ...

Yes, only the sanctum is heavily prone to wear. Also the mode inserts tend to slightly wear at the edges, but that's no different than on other pins. The saucers and everything else is pretty well designed and typically doesn't wear excessively.
Protectors (e.g. Cliffy style) for saucers are not needed.

1 week later
#1634 4 years ago
Quoted from ALY:

Hello Shadow fans.
I'm about to join the club this Friday so I need some advice.
What are the critical points of The Shadow pinball.
I know about the playfield wear above the lock magnet. I need to know what else do I have to check before buying it.
Thanks in advance.

Check out post 1595 and following.

#1641 4 years ago
Quoted from ALY:

Joined the club today!
I have the LX2 ROM now on it and I can see that LX6 is available as the latest.
Where can I find a changelog for every change up to LX6?


1 week later
#1684 4 years ago
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:

could the part that brand silence posted for me be made by a 3d printer? I can't find a complete one anywhere. or could the sides be made? id be willing to pay. thanks for the pics

I think (not sure though) you need to find someone who can do vacuum forming. Most probably it's vacu-formed upside down and then the bottom opening is cut out.
It's not such a big deal, I've seen some pinheads making their own vacuum forming boxes. I have to check in our local forum, but I remember someone making a TAF cloud (of course only for their own machine!!!) some time ago.

@kvan99: The mongols are available, kinda pricy, but available. http://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/the-shadow-mongol-figuur.html

#1690 4 years ago
Quoted from Glarrownage:

Not if you know what country to host the server in......

The purpose is to keep it quiet.

Putting it on the net is the contrary of quiet, regardless of where the server is hosted.

1 week later
#1720 4 years ago
Quoted from Glarrownage:

Lol, a truer statement has never been made. That's why I would like to see a proper site created, so this hobby can be allowed to flourish as it should.

I don't get it - what would this site do? You list all the parts being made privately, but then to order you need some kind of contact. As soon as you have a contact, you have a starting point from which someone can start legal action?!?? It's not illegal in any country on any site to list parts you are privately making, the problem starts only when you disclose how you can be contacted - of course the license owner will present himself as an interested private collector until he receives the part, THEN he will start his legal crusade.

The way it is now the info gets passed on only between pinheads that know each other and therefore can be sure the license holder will not get any information on what's being made by whom. The legal problems don't start until "strangers" are able to contact whoever is making the part.

#1737 4 years ago
Quoted from Aurich:

It's kinda bad. But if you have the pin it's super fun, you'll recognize a lot.

Yeah, owning the pin it's great fun to watch the movie! It provides a very satisfying "aha, now it all makes sense" effect.

Even the "the sun is shining - but the ice is slippery" is kind of cool if you know why they are saying it.

#1738 4 years ago
Quoted from Neinhalt:

I can't hit much with the right top flipper, also when making the left loop and then just holding the top flipper will send the ball directly to the leftmost outlane in 9 out of 10 cases. I watched the Papa tutorial yesterday and realized the upper flipper on their machine, when hold, extends much farther than mine. Picture shows mine fully extended, seems a bit shallow. Can someone take a look at theirs and maybe post a picture? ts1_upperflipper.jpg

Probably it's just not adjusted correctly, it should extend much further. What does it look like in resting position? The outer rim of the flipper bat is supposed to be aligned with the metal ballguide above it (or on the rear side parallel to the orange-red stripes on the plastic). It should not touch anything in resting position.

#1741 4 years ago
Quoted from Neinhalt:

Flipper is fixed, someone installed it already half-way extended. I guess someone wanted those Shadow loops to be impossible
About the diodes, can anyone advice? Had so much small problems with the machine and I fear I'll blow a board when playing it. Both the right flippers (lower and upper) are missing one diode - will the fliptronic compensate this or blow sooner or later?

Probably it wasn't tight enough and the shaft over time turned slightly when hitting the ball.

Not sure about the diode-problem. The schematics show 2 diodes on every coil, but I'm not a technical guy. No big deal to install them, so maybe someone can just confirm if installing them can have any negative effects (maybe they are missing on purpose, in theory the diodes could be somewhere else, including the boards in the backbox).

#1802 4 years ago
Quoted from Circus_Animal:

Biggest things are playfield wear in front of the Sanctum and the plastic rings above the ramps. Sanctum looks fine in the pictures (there will probably still be a small indentation if you actually touch it but this is pretty standard on The Shadow). The rings are all there in the pictures, but check them for damage, especially around the holes for the screws. These cost a couple of hundred to replace. Other than that, play the game- particularly the Battlefield- and as long as there's no major problems, it looks like it's in pretty good condition.

Rings will be officially reproduced not to far in the future, so one worry less...

#1819 4 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Am I the only person who prefers the monotone DMD's compared to the multi-color DMD's? I'm not sure why, but I like the monotone look. I think it may be due to DMD's having limited dots to play with, the multi-color comes across as a bit gaudy and blocky (like a kid's toy Lite-Brite), whereas the design of the monotone DMD seems to have more unity...It's like trying to color an Ansel Adams.
Having said that, I think the different monotone color DMD's can look beautiful (such as the green TS I've seen here and red BSD).

Your typo is kinda answering your question - monochrome is monotone, that's why many prefer color...

We had the same discussion on the German forum, it's a matter of personal taste. For me it depends on the machine: STTNG looks lightyears better in color, LotR to. Got color in my MB, but I could live without it. Some people don't like color at all, others want it for every single game they have.
To me the color makes a lot of details visible which you just can't identify in the "monochrome soup" that an original DMD produces.
And in a gameroom where most games are colored, monochrome looks massively outdated and old fashioned. If you're pro-monochrome you'd probably say it looks "classic" or "authentic".

1 week later
#1859 4 years ago
Quoted from kenhusa:

I have "The Shadow" Pin Ball machine. The upper stage paddle won't go back and forth. Where can I buy the maintenance/repair manual for it? I am an engineer so I should be able to work on it. If it is a solenoid where can I purchase such items? I am not sure which forum I should post this to? Thank you


2 weeks later
#1930 4 years ago

The ColorDMDs are all the same. It doesn't matter if you order Sigma or a dedicated one, you will get the exact same product - the only difference are the brackets/cables included with the DMD. If you order a dedicated one you will get the correct cables by default, with Sigma you need to chose for which system to get the correct cables/mount.
They all come with Sigma software preinstalled and you always need to update to the dedicated software yourself, you can also go back to Sigma at any time. So yes, everything you want to do is possible with any ColorDMD, you just need to get the right cable/mount for your pin.

2 weeks later
#2049 4 years ago

Does anybody have a reference of where PPS or Rick announced that they will reproduce the rings? Thanks.

#2055 4 years ago
Quoted from fosaisu:

Rick said "rings are in process" over here (in the context of shutting down a guy selling his own Phurba remakes):


1 week later
#2096 4 years ago
Quoted from rjsoeps:

image.jpg image_1.jpg image_2.jpg image_3.jpg

Maybe it's just the picture, but both seem pretty orange. On mine the scarf is far more red and not orange at all.

2 weeks later
#2123 4 years ago
Quoted from freddy:

flippers use the flippers.

Love that callout, it really aggravates people.

#2139 4 years ago
Quoted from Circus_Animal:

Especially when you haven't been given the chance to "Use the flippers" because the ball's fallen through the gap between the wireform and the target.

I would check how the machine is set up, then.
I never ever had a ball fall off the mini-pf other than the lower rim when missing it with the bat or the upper rim when beating the mini-pf, actually I'll just now check if there is a gap at all.

The Shadow in general is quite a pain to dial in perfectly, though. But once it's set up right, what a ride it is!

#2140 4 years ago
Quoted from Circus_Animal:

Especially when you haven't been given the chance to "Use the flippers" because the ball's fallen through the gap between the wireform and the target.

Is the little metal rim that stops the ball from falling off present on your machine and is it 100% intact (= not bent)? It's pretty high, can't imagine how a ball could just "jump" over it.


If it IS there but for some reason doesn't do it's job you could always make your own, higher or better shaped, version - it's just a piece of sheet metal with a bend in it.

#2172 4 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

I heard rumblings that on eof the top directors wanted to redo Shadow with a more modern superhero quality production. My guess in the next 5-10 years we see new Shadow movie...Theme was big for like 30 years. It ran forever on radio.

That's cool news. The Shadow actually is a killer theme, kind of like a Superhero for a slightly more mature audience.

It is the predecessor of Batman after all and just look what awesome movies Nolan made from that worn out theme.

3 weeks later
#2268 4 years ago
Quoted from madtown:

What am i missing? i bought my first pin a year ago or so (TS) and have enjoyed it but after figuring out what i'm actually doing i have several issues with it. i think the object (?) of the game is to get to wizard mode (have not done it yet!) which would make the ramps/diverters/vengence as well as mongol hurry up/shooting outer loops completely useless toward accomplishing this goal. Seems like it would be a much better game if these were necessary to complete the red scarf (maybe light all four rings and do a three way combo). As it stands i dont see any point in shooting for ramps that brick and drain down the middle every time or getting the ball going lightning speed on the outer loops only to miss it once and drain. Every time i hear ATTACK now i ignore it completely rather than getting excited. When i hit a ramp now, its on accident. Seems to me its a fatal flaw in the game and takes away some of the excitement of playing. just wanted to hear others thoughts...thanks

Yeah, just about any pin has shots and goals that are not necessary to progress to wizard mode, but "only" give points or other rewards.
Some pins are more oriented towards racking up points others are more progression based, most a mix of both. I also enjoy progression oriented pins more as I play alone a lot.
Shadow to me is a perfect balance of score & progression based. You can use the hurry ups and shadow loops to earn points toward or directly activate an extra ball. Vengeance triggered through the ramps i a very cool feature, but it isn't necessary to reach Final Battle. That's the only thing I would have wanted to be implemented. Still you need to be good at the ramps to beat the modes and collect skill shot awards.
Having to complete most of the very different features of the pin (all modes, khan mb, shadow mb, battlefield) is more than most pins of the early/mid 90's require to qualify for wizard mode, Shadow is a winner here. It also has a real wizard mode with distinct goals instead of just an everything's-lit-multiball.

Look at other pins from that time:
STTNG: Slam the ball into the mode start. Again and again until: wizard multiball, yeh!
TZ: Mode start - relight - mode start - relight etc. ... mode start again: Woop woop - surprise - the wizard multiball, yeh!

#2276 4 years ago
Quoted from madtown:

I can never get the upper ramp?? Only with an absolutely direct shot with a lot of speed but if it hits the sides at all it does not make it up to the top! I guess i just dont like playing for high score. It seems boring to just do loop shot or battlefield over and over on end simply for a high score. Since i bought Fish Tales it seems my Shadow just sits. At least on Fish Tales i can hit all the shots and the purpose of the game IS a high score.

I don't get it - so you want to sell Shadow because it gives you more to do than just chase the high score (as you do in FT)?
Still thinking but the more I think the less i get your point. Why do find playing for points just right on FT, but not on TS???
In the end "the goal" of any pin is making the most points, it seems you find it irritating that Shadow gives you so many different possibilities to rack points up? Maybe there is just to many rules, twists and things to know about the rules that turns you off and you enjoy simpler, "oldschool", one tracked rules more?

Apart from that it sounds like your Shadow has some sort of serious technical problem. All the ramps are not problem to make at all, actually all the shots on Shadow are fast and smooth.

3 months later
#2564 3 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Are you able to buy the cup point screws as a cap screw anywhere, similar to this one at Marco (I think the Marco one is a cone point) ? http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4010-01066-06

I (and just about anyone I know who owns a Shadow) uses those exact same screws to set the diverter. Everyone has those in their spare parts boxes and they allow to use a bigger sized wrench to apply more torque.

My set screws were constantly coming lose letting the diverter slip, never happened again since i use those coilstop-screws.

#2565 3 years ago
Quoted from Bigbossfan:

Hey all. My left diverter finally stopped moving all the way to the left and right. Finally got around to checking it out to figure out the problem and the shaft on the diverter itself is chewed all to shit by the set screws I'm assuming, thus doesn't have anything to grip on to. Subsequently searching around Marco's, BAA etc. Can't seem to find a left diverter and knife assembly.
I know it's a long shot, but anyone have one of these hanging around that they'd be willing to sell??
Heres a link to what I'm looking for. http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=BAA&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=GS-SHA19638-1

PSPA has the right side diverters. If you're desperate you can rework those to work for the left side.

1 month later
#2638 3 years ago
Quoted from RTS:

No, it's normal.
You have to make a set number of hits (30 the first time) before the back targets drop.

They should drop every time you hit them. They just stop coming right back up after 30 battlefield hits.

1 week later
#2664 3 years ago
Quoted from fosaisu:

Perhaps a stupid question, but I made this adjustment to the upper flipper a while back, and agree that it improves the flow of the game. However, now when my upper flipper is in the rest position it protrudes slightly and will occasionally deflect a right orbit shot. Is there a way to increase the overall range of motion of the upper flipper, so that it will rest flush yet extend sufficiently to feed the Kahn hole when it's help up to catch a left orbit shot? Or do you just have to chose between an ideal rest position and an ideal up position?

Actually you just put it in the correct position which is - as with ANY flipper ever produced - the rest position of course. It is a very awkward idea that any operator would take the time to adjust the flipper to automatically make the Kahn/Mode Start. IF the pin was meant be set up in such a delicate way they would have noted it in the manual or some service bulletin. Also, it is always referred to as a "shot", not a no-skill-dribble-in.
And you're mixing up "easy" and "flow". Shadow flows like hell because many shots can be connected consecutively. The Kahn/Mode Start is a saucer, it's a stop shot, the term flow is completely out of place here.
There is not more flow in the layout by using an exploit/adjustment trick to make it play easier.

EDIT: Now someone is even suggesting to physically alter/damage the machine to make the cheat shot possible...

#2675 3 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

So when you put purple super bands on your machine, your cheating and damaging your pin. So he asked a question and I told him how to do it.

Kind of, yes, at least the cheating part. I'm still looking for a better solution to installing colored flipper rubbers while maintaining the original feel. I like how they play, but it does make the game easier so currently I've put the original ones back in the game.
The rubbers are easily exchangable to try different setups.

Sorry for the harsh reaction, I had the impression that your tip was meant as kind of a remedy to a faulty construction of the upper flipper. My bad.

#2680 3 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

I also like the purple rubbers, tried the super-bands but found them too bouncy and removed them. I then discovered a solution that works, Titan Competition rubbers, these are very similar to the original flippers and come in a variety of colors (including purple): https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=52
Here's what they look like in my pin...

Great tip! I was wanting to order the Titan glow-in-the-dark set for my MB for a while now, I might as well add some purple ones for TS & CV to try those out.

#2688 3 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

the brick wall

Are you talking about the backboard? I'm lost.

#2692 3 years ago

I don't see anything, but it seems you are talking about the illuminated backboard.

Those are made in Germany and cost around 160EUR in Europe, so a bit more than half the US-price. It's a real diapositive laminated onto a plexiglass. It's made for optimal light distribution - so if you don't want to illuminate it it doesn't make much sense to use this one.

if you do want to illuminate it it's absolutely stunning (especially in a dark room) and makes the machine shine like no other mod.




#2695 3 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

very nice. where to buy it in Europe? maybe somebody selling it used?

Are you also on Flippermarkt.de? They had some forum discount in the past.

Otherwise the homepage for the plexi-backboards is here: http://einzelart.de/category/backboards/

1 week later
#2724 3 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

about the long microswitch, is it for avoiding the standard switch not registering fast balls (left ramp, right diverted)? It happens sometimes on mine. Which switch is the best one to help proper registration?

Search around on Pinside.

All solutions are based on long switchblades (yes, they are meant to improve read reliability) so the trigger is moved to the left when the ball travels more stable.
I think the most reliable solution is the one where the complete switch mounting plate is prolonged to the left by using some plexi. The switch is then mounted about an inch further to the left of the original mounting plate.

On my Shadow I just used one of the switches you would find as a WPC rollover switch, bent the blade (actually it's a wire actuator in my case) to be straight, tried around a little and it ended up being approx. 95% reliable. Just wanted to test it actually, but I left it that way.

1 week later
#2752 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinbally_1968:

After fixing the kicker issue i finally got a few, well 50+ games on it. I must say that Shadow is the most difficult game I have ever owned or played. It is sitting next to my Dracula, which also has a reputation of being difficult..but compared to Shadow, Dracula is peanuts. I have not been reading rules which i never do, and thus on Shadow I still do not have clue what to shoot for. There is no time to read the DMD, for me at least lol. For sure its one of the fastest games out there. Shortest ball times ever. Multiball(s) ... before getting into a certain level of control most of the times 1 or 2 already drained, the side drains are easy/cheap, let alone the STM's. Wheew..its a real challenge this one. At this point 1,1 billion is my maximum, not even close to finishing the game.
What are your experiences?

That's a solid score! Learn to hit the ramps safely and then use them to always direct the ball to the flipper you need it on.

For me control and the extreme flow in the game come from mastering the ramp shots. I also find the loop very important to if you intend to score high.

There's some more twists to avoiding drains, e.g. try never to let the ball fall off the Battlefield to the right, it should always drop from the left side of the paddle. Don't shoot for the Sanctum if lock is not lit, it'll get hit anyway along the way to activate the lock.

Use the Battlefield to take some speed out of the game if things get to hectic. Also make use of the Jackpot doubling and tripling, it'll boost your score and parking the balls in the saucers massively reduces the pace during multiballs.

#2768 3 years ago
Quoted from Bartzenegger:

Hi , not an owner but thinking of becoming one. Have a question ....... Is shadow considered a deep game ? I saw "great ruleset" in the ratings but wondering if it's deep and are there a lot of shots?
Thank u

It does have 9 shots (targets not counted) which is above average. Actually it's 11 shots if you count each way of the ramps separately...

On a game as tough as this one the goals to get to final battle are quite a challenge plus Final Battle is a "real" wizard mode, not just a "everything scores multiball".

1 week later
#2799 3 years ago
Quoted from Bos98:

No one makes the rings!

Rick will make them, he's been announcing that since what feels like decades but nothing's happening.

Every time a fake one surfaces Rick pops up out of nowhere and lets us know that they will be available "very soon".

2 weeks later
#2843 3 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

I think if you start Vengeance with a combo, you will receive the Super Vengeance when completing all of them (irrespective of whether or not they are completed in a row). The key is to start it as a combo. Does this sound correct?

That's correct. If the fourth ring shot is part of any combo you will start Super Vengeance instead of Vengeance with that shot.

2 weeks later
#2920 3 years ago

Both diverters stays away from each side approx. 1mm on mine. Everything is completely original.

If I had a problem like your's I'd go for a longer coilstop amd maybe dremel it down a bit if it's to long.
It would be shame to glue ugly rubber stuff to that gorgeous ramp.

3 weeks later
#2943 3 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

sorry for the simple question, but better to avoid mistake:
New balls for TS: low magnetic or standard?

Not sure if the other poster is joking, so just to be sure: low magnetic is what you want.

#2944 3 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

What about this switch, helping detecting balls on the right diverted left ramp? Does it work well as advertised? Is this a custom switch, or does it have a part number?
ebay.com link » Shadow Pinball Left Ramp Switch Fix To Stop Air Balls Missing Made Shots

That will work. I have more or less the exact same switch mounted - but I just used a standard WPC rollover switch and bent the wire straight myself. Registers 99% of the time.

#2945 3 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

So they need to be transparent of course. I saw some set that looks like soft blue. Also, I saw one set of six and another of 12 plastic protectors. Which one do you recommend? Where to get it from?

I don't know of any 6 piece set, but I always buy the ones from Pintbits. I like how thin they are and they do a great job of cutting them not to big like others sometimes do. They are crystal clear.

#2947 3 years ago
Quoted from drsfmd:

Seriously? Citation? I don't see anything about that in the manual.

I would guess so. Low magnetic (=hard to magnetize) pinballs were not available back then.

#2949 3 years ago
Quoted from drsfmd:

Ah- I thought low magnetic would have indicated a higher non-ferrous content.

It does!

It's enough to still let them be magnetic, but so much less that it takes much longer to magnetize them.

1 month later
#3043 3 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

I love soooo much my Shadow, amazing endless fun. It will never ever leave no doubt.
I agree its a tough game, but definitely not the most difficult either. When I got it was also nearly unplayable: drains after drains afetr drains in few seconds. The game needs to be set up properly, and in my case changing to all BLACK rubbers was the most effective change.
Regarding the mods, I increased the timing for each of them: such a pleasure to play them without having to shoot fastly getting exposed to randomness and un-strategic risk. With longer mode time, it's still VERY had to complete modes: but you can skillfully try to go for it setting up and choosing the right time to shoot, avoiding extreme risks. With this sofware configuration the game is really ABSOLUTE PERFECTION.
Another very important change: increase ball lock time during multiball (I think mine is around 22 secs): then you have first to shoot for the holes (again, having enough time to avoid stupid shots very risky), and then go for the jackpots. Especially in Shadow Multiball it's amazing when the Sanctum is open and you have to shoot there first, in order to get the ball released and then try to go for an inner loop shot (jackpot), while another ball(s) is locked in the hole for around 20 secs. And if you get the Jackpot the locked ball is released and you want to lock it again.. Multiball become a whole new game with a competely new flow and dynamics, and not just super fast semi-random shooting hoping for balls getting the jackpots semi-randomly while at best trying to trap the ball with the flipper..

I usually try to keep it original and I kinda like how TS kicks my ass again and again, but this made me curious.

Played around with the setting as you recommend and it really adds to the game. Especially the longer ball lock time is great!
It doesn't make the game easier to play, but it helps you achieve more goals and lets you play out your strategy much better than on factory. Good stuff!

#3059 3 years ago
Quoted from Glarrownage:

Second, I know many of you have had issues with the ball flying off the center wireform.

Had the same problem, I think it was Vid who provided the solution that worked for me: Loosen the ramp, push it as far as possible to the right and thighten it down again.

I still have a ball flying off once in a while, but only when I 100% nail the shot at very high speed.

#3072 3 years ago

I don't actually think the original is that bad at all. It's great artwork and here in Germany we don't know anything about the "Baldwin-Problem", here he's just an actor like any other. I have Aurich's translite in the game and the original lying around and guests often ask me why I don't install the original as it has much nicer artwork and fits the game much better.

That said, to me the original speaker panel is the REAL problem here. It doesn't fit the rest of the pins artwork at all and looks cheap as hell.

2 weeks later
#3190 3 years ago

Sounds like the balls are getting stuck in the trough, either mechanically or due to magnetism.

One of these should do the trick: https://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=449

#3192 3 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

Is there a way to demagnetize them?

Yes, but it needs special equipment and won't last. The plastic thingy solves the problem forever.

2 weeks later
#3225 3 years ago
Quoted from BobC:

or good old Brasso...

Not sure about The Shadow in specific, but usually using Brasso or likewise on factory brass colored pinball ramps will polish off the brass immediately. They will be chrome colored afterwards.

3 weeks later
#3304 3 years ago

I think it was due to politeness that no one answered by now. This is not exactly pretty...

Black chrome side blades are my favorite on Shadow, but normal blades are also great. Maybe even gold, not sure about that.

What you are looking for is probably called "prism foil" or "rainbow foil" or "rainbow prism foil"? Something like that. This stuff was pretty common in the 70s and 80s.

1 month later
#3405 3 years ago
Quoted from Circus_Animal:

The rings are probably the biggest thing.

Not according to Rick it isn't: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-sale-phurba-the-shadow-exact-replicas#post-2582345

They are "in process"...but it's a veeeeery long process obviously.

#3414 3 years ago

Just replaced Aurichs great translite with this beauty. Love it, think this one will stay!

IMG_1874 (resized).jpg

IMG_1887 (resized).jpg

2 weeks later
#3437 3 years ago
Quoted from Pesmerga:

Anyway I need your help guys, I have to replace the attached plastic on my pin, can anyone suggest me which rivets I have to buy to fix it? Or better, since rivets are a pain to put and remove, there are any alternatives? Thanks!

I use the original 1/8" oval headed rivets they used in the factory. Before I had one of those huge riveting presses I just used simple little oval head screws secured with lock washers or locktite. Always worked well for me.

3 weeks later
#3535 3 years ago
Quoted from superolav:

How to deassemble the divertor bolt/clip/plug?
Just knock it out from one of the sides?


Be careful not to damage the plunger, they are extremely hard to find (at least that was the case a few years ago).

1 week later
#3555 3 years ago
Quoted from superolav:

Anyone "who knows" what part nr the plunger and or plunger tip in The Shadow?

Check the manual?

#3561 3 years ago
Quoted from Pesmerga:

PS Somone else has a playfield protector on this pin? How is it??

He he, actually "someoneelse" does have a playfield protector on his machine.

Usually I don't like the protectors but when i bought mine it was already in the game. Originally wanted to take it out, but I was lazy and since my PF looks brand new (even in the Sanctum area there is not even the slightest sign of wear) it's still in the pin now. It plays very nice and smooth, actually, nothing to criticize regarding playability. The ball lock may cause some problems if you don't slightly raise the plastic above it with acrylic washers or likewise.
Have to say that the look of it is not ideal, though. It scratches and gets slightly dull quite fast. Since I play in a dark gameroom the angle in which the GI light hits the PF makes this even more noticeable, in daylight you do not see it that much. If I had it teared down anyway I'd rather have the PF cleared professionally than using a protector. But the previous owner already renovated the machine and as I said, I'm lazy these days....

1 week later
#3576 2 years ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

Just as a heads up, the site says you need 2, made me assume that they came as a two pack seeing as how there are four on the game, but in reality you need 4. Just in case anyone else is ordering. I luckily only needed two.....then of course after they arrived another of my originals broke....son of a....

Do they look different than the originals when in the game? Does it work to mix old and new rings?

#3597 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Yes it is 2 second delay, I had to give it a try because some of you asked for it. I still think more time is needed like 4 seconds for my taste. You can have what you like as I have resistors for 2, 3 and 4 seconds.

Great mod, very cool!

Have you though about adding an adjustable pot so it is possible to set the time for different pinball uses? I'm thinking this could also work well with e.g. lighting up the Army of the Dead on LotR.

#3641 2 years ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

What type of gun is used as the model for this.....???

You mean the gun handle shooter? It's a customized .45 Win Mag LAR Grizzly.

#3660 2 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

I have the targets with the really thick backing. Hitting them head on often causes the air balls into the outlanes resulting in a drain.

Is the foam backing thick or do you mean the metal? If it's the foam it depends on the material, not the thickness.

Have you adjusted the targets correctly? Leaning slightly forward they work best.

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