(Topic ID: 46571)

The Shadow Club

By marsgnu

11 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

4 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #73 Insert LED bulbs and colors Posted by MnHotRod (11 years ago)

Post #4322 Alternate Shadow Translite and Speaker Panel Posted by Aurich (6 years ago)

Post #4328 Shadow Manual Rubber Ring Chart link Posted by PinMonk (6 years ago)

Post #7873 The Shadow pistol grip info Posted by RobDutch (3 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider rvermeire.
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#8476 2 years ago

New to the club. Just got a Shadow in with some issues.

The first one :

Mini playfield is not working. Testing : Optos on the playfield are ok, optos beneath the playfield left /right from coil are ok.
All cables seems to be ok, reseated the 3 plugs.
LED 1 is on
Coil gives 11ohm...?? is this ok? I thought a coil only should give 5ohm ?
when I do the motor test left or right nothing moves...

How to test the motor and the coil?

other ideas ?
error error (resized).jpgerror error (resized).jpgerror mini bad (resized).jpgerror mini bad (resized).jpg
mini playfield under (resized).jpgmini playfield under (resized).jpg

#8479 2 years ago
Quoted from monkfe:

Trying to recall, but I thought the motor controller board is at the rear (top-underside) of the playfield...have you checked that yet?

That's the one with the LED on I guess, the LED is on, what else and how to check?

#8480 2 years ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

Is the mechanism moving freely? I think it will throw that error if it’s encountering too much resistance.

It's not sliding from left to right sliding when I push it, you can feel small resistance from the motor but it moves freely and you can feel the gear turning. Think this is ok.

#8482 2 years ago
Quoted from monkfe:

Ok it not the board you have pictured, there another one (I think there are two actually) next to each other...I'd check those connectors first.

There is only one under the mini playfield + 2 optos on little PCB's and 2 strips holding the lamps.
Is the one you speak off under the main playfield?

#8484 2 years ago
Quoted from monkfe:

Ok look under the playfield(main not small battlefield) to the very rear...follow the wiring harness from the motor...should goninto a board...check that

There is indeed a small board but I think it controls the optos. the red black/wire goes to opto on playfield. The grey/black I think to optos under playfield. The motor has a red and white/yellowish cable.
When power is on, LED onboard is on as well and both optos seems to work according to switch edge test.

control board (resized).jpgcontrol board (resized).jpg

#8488 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

This is the board you are looking for. Remove the board and look on the back side for cracked solder joints.
[quoted image]

OK will do..

The LED on this little PCB is off when Pin is on, is that normal ?

There is no power on pin 1 and 4 on J2 (tested with motor on selection in test menu and motor off, should be 20V I think)
I reseated connector J116 and J126 on the PDB (they look ok and all cables are tight)
I also noticed LED 3 on the PDB is off, but no idea if there is a link, just mentioning...

#8490 2 years ago
Quoted from rvermeire:

OK will do..
The LED on this little PCB is off when Pin is on, is that normal ?
There is no power on pin 1 and 4 on J2 (tested with motor on selection in test menu and motor off, should be 20V I think)
I reseated connector J116 and J126 on the PDB (they look ok and all cables are tight)
I also noticed LED 3 on the PDB is off, but no idea if there is a link, just mentioning...

When starting a game without balls the kicker moves while in search of balls at game start... meaning it gets power...

1 week later
#8513 2 years ago

Strange issue with opto /switch 47 inner loop.
Test reports it's open (It should be closed i suppose)
Replaced both optos Rx/Tx with new ones.
Problem still there : Open in test mode, and no reaction when i put something in between.
On the connector just before the opto I measure 12V on Grey/Yell - Black cable. (going to Tx)
On the opto i measure 1.2V on the TX and nothing on Rx. (OK?)

Manuel says cable should be Green/Yellow (switch 47) and goes to J207-4 via J3-3 op the main opto board
There is however no Green/yellow cable connected on the optos but an Orange/Brown going to J2-8 (connected to the receiving opto)

Tried my cell in camera mode in front of the Tx : nothing.
Can't imagine a new one is broken...
Anything i can check or measure on the optoboard or elsewhere?

Thx

opto (resized).jpgopto (resized).jpg
#8517 2 years ago
Quoted from monkfe:

Failure of the LM339's on the opto board is a common failure point...have you checked the output at the board ? the opto wire are a different color than the switch matrix wires...they all go back to the opto board...

All other optos on that board are working, can a LM339 just fail for one switch?
And indeed the orange/violet cable is going directly from the opto receiver to the opto board at plug J2 -1. (Switch matrix cable is another story)

How can I check the output at the board?

#8519 2 years ago
Quoted from monkfe:

There are four comparators on each of the LM339's so yes you could have just one fail...its easy to swap out the IC (once it's socketed), but you can check the output on the IC and compare it to the other circuits, which are identical.

Forgive my ignorance but how to compare? what pin with what pin and what should it give as result to be functioning ok?
Unfortunetly not on a socket

#8522 2 years ago
Quoted from monkfe:

you'll have to pull out the schematic, I believe there is one in the manual...look for the output of the comparators and "compare" them to each other in both states (opto unbroken beam- and broken) and see what your results are...

Found the schematics and it seems to be controlled by LM339 on U2B (Pin 4 - and pin 5+) Next question is what should it measure in value ? to be ok in close and open mode ?

opto scheme (resized).jpgopto scheme (resized).jpg
#8528 2 years ago
Quoted from monkfe:

So your input from the opto comes into the board at pin 1 on J2 right? You can measure the voltage right at that pin coming into the board and observe that there is a voltage change with the beam broken vs not broken...assuming your good there..move to the comparator itself...your pin 5 reference voltage should be steady voltage, pin 4 should vary with your opto - open/ closed...if that's all good then look at pin 2 which is actually the switch for the switch matrix...and check D7 too with your dmm in diode mode...
Use the other opto pin locations for reference voltages...they should be the same

Just swapped the LM339 for a new one (on socket this time). No changes !!!
It's indeed pin 1 on J2 for switch 47 (receiver side).
I can't break the beam, it's already broken as reported as open in switch test... and can't close it..

Added over 3 years ago:

Tested violet resistors. All have 268ohms. Al diodes are fine as well (+/- 590).

Added over 3 years ago:

The U2 located LM339 controls 3 optos (45-46-47)
45 / 46 are closed (ok) and report 4.3V
47 (faulty remains open) reports 11.6V
Pin 3 (Vcc+) and pin 12 GND report 11.6V as well

What can I conclude with these figures?

#8531 2 years ago
Quoted from monkfe:

Are you sure you installed the ir transistor correctly?pic?

Found the issue ! 12V reached the small connector 2" away from the opto but didn't pass to the receiver. I was told earlier 1.2V on sender was ok and 0V on receiver also, that's why initially i didn't investigate further. But now I know it must be 12V on the receiver !

#8532 2 years ago

Other and hope final issue... to finally be able to play hassle free.

The left diverter is no longer reacting on the left blue button. If I do a solenoid test it moves in both directions.
So it gets power and instructions but not via the button. Cables are ok on button side.
What and where can i measure values ?

blue button (resized).jpgblue button (resized).jpg
#8534 2 years ago
Quoted from monkfe:

Good to hear you've made some progress...does the switch show up in switch edge test?

Phurba left control is switch 34 and test says it's open.
Hitting the left blue button has no effect.
No reaction in edge test

#8536 2 years ago
Quoted from monkfe:

As I recall, those cabinet switches have their own connectors to the mpu board..usually it's the connector with one or two wires...check continuity from the switch to the board..and make sure they're both plugged in...either way check the continuity to the mpu board

Continuity on both cables is ok (from soldering on switch to connector on MPU) Diode on switch gives 509 in diode mode.
Only strange thing is they are connected on J206-3 & J208-4 while they should be on J207-3 & j209-4 and normally 206 and 208 have no connector (Manual says not used).
These connectors are bridged so that's fine but on 207 & 209 there is also a cable connected... ??
It worked till I solved my opto problem yesterday... strange...

#8537 2 years ago
Quoted from rvermeire:

Continuity on both cables is ok (from soldering on switch to connector on MPU) Diode on switch gives 509 in diode mode.
Only strange thing is they are connected on J206-3 & J208-4 while they should be on J207-3 & j209-4 and normally 206 and 208 have no connector (Manual says not used).
These connectors are bridged so that's fine but on 207 & 209 there is also a cable connected... ??
It worked till I solved my opto problem yesterday... strange...

I switched connectors from 206 to 207 and 208 to 209. Don't ask me why but everything works now...
TIME TO PLAY !!!

#8548 2 years ago

Did any of you removed the standard speaker panel and went all black without it?
Considering to give it a try with these decals on the speakers.
The standard blue one is awful with my translite...

heads (resized).JPGheads (resized).JPG3 (resized).jpg3 (resized).jpg
#8550 2 years ago
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:

that translite is awful!

Degustibus et coloribus non disputandum est.

The translite is not the point....

#8559 2 years ago
Quoted from KrazyIvan14:

The wood under the speaker panel doesn’t look great, the speakers themselves also look unfinished without the panel. If you’re looking for something more plain that goes with your translite, maybe try the whitewater speaker panel? I was thinking of doing this at one point. It’s pretty basic and understated

Does anyone know if the speaker panel of a Who Dunnit would fit the shadow ? It's black with golden Bally logo.

speaker panel bally (resized).JPGspeaker panel bally (resized).JPG
#8561 2 years ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

The Who Dunnit one is different, it’s a flat plastic that looks like this one. This is more like an AFM one, and you could probably make it work with some modification but it wouldn’t be drop in. Also, they’re kinda ugly IMO. I guess it would give your Shadow that WPC 95 style but I far preferred the earlier speaker panels with art on them.

Yeah with the roundings not very nice. Problem is the blue panel doesn’t fit with my translite (see previous post) was going to add the phurba stickers.

#8562 2 years ago

Have red/Blue LED's on my transparant flipper buttons (already installed when bought)

These are 12V but left side isn't working anymore. The used boards are no longer sold, so I'll have to switch to 6.3V wedge with 2cm flexible wire LED's.

What's the best point to pickup 6.3V/GND near the left flipper buttons ?

#8564 2 years ago
Quoted from RCA1:

I have done lit flipper buttons on several games taking power from the coin slot lights. I think that includes The Shadow.
As usual, Vid shows how:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-lighted-flipper-buttons-for-418

Thx good info !

1 week later
#8566 2 years ago

LEDs on flipper buttons up and runing, left GI 6.3V and right 12V with LED PCB's.

Also installed color PIN2DMD !! Very good investment !

IMG_4026 (resized).jpgIMG_4026 (resized).jpgIMG_4050 (resized).jpgIMG_4050 (resized).jpgIMG_4059 (resized).jpgIMG_4059 (resized).jpg
1 year later
#10203 1 year ago

Does anyone know which font is used in eg : Punish the guilty.
It seems no one is selling insert decals so might do kind of own production....

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