(Topic ID: 46571)

The Shadow Club


By marsgnu

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 6,505 posts
  • 549 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 hour ago by Manny65
  • Topic is favorited by 183 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

2 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #4322 Alternate Shadow Translite and Speaker Panel Posted by Aurich (2 years ago)

Post #4328 Shadow Manual Rubber Ring Chart link Posted by vireland (2 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#2475 3 years ago

Can anyone take a picture of the configuration of switch 55 from underneath the playfield, the battlefield drop target? Specifically, the wiring and diode configuration.

Trying to troubleshoot bizarre behavior after replacing the switch. Thanks.

#2478 3 years ago
Quoted from RTS:

Can anyone take a picture of the configuration of switch 55 from underneath the playfield, the battlefield drop target? Specifically, the wiring and diode configuration.
Trying to troubleshoot bizarre behavior after replacing the switch. Thanks.

nevermind. resoldered a different diode, and all good.

1 month later
#2594 3 years ago
Quoted from indypinhead:

The blank targets have all been machined. Once an order is placed, and the style is selected, I'll machine that style and ship.
This will cause NO delays. I have the machine set up and ready to run the drop target faces.
Just contact me for payment info...

I got the target for my game, and it's a much stronger plastic. Even without the lighting effects, it's a better target overall.

The original target is flimsy and very crappy in comparison. This target is a vast improvement. And visually, it looks way better. It illuminates the area nicely. The kit comes with a white bulb, but was easy to change to red which works well with the brick pattern.

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3 weeks later
#2636 3 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

No, its gummed up and needs to be cleaned.

No, it's normal.

You have to make a set number of hits (30 the first time) before the back targets drop.

#2643 3 years ago
Quoted from someoneelse:

They should drop every time you hit them. They just stop coming right back up after 30 battlefield hits.

Yes, you're right. The guy's question was a bit vague. I thought he believed they should always stay down when hit.

Quoted from PinballNewb:

So how does one go about cleaning the drops correctly? I have the assembly off but the targets themselves are riveted in. The best it looks like I can do at this point is use a brush and get down in as much as I can.

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Carefully remove the C-clips holding the targets to the board. You should be able to separate the green board from the targets. Clean the mechanical mechanism and the plastic targets if there is a lot of dirt. The clips are visible in the picture you posted. There are 4 of them

From what I see from your picture, they don't look particularly dirty. Manually push them to see how easily they snap down. If they don't drop or drop slowly when your finger pushes it, they're probably gummed up, and I'd use a q-tip and rubbing alcohol. If they snap down fast and slide up smoothly, they ain't dirty.

1 week later
#2662 3 years ago

I know we can add spots to the upper battlefield to give it better lighting, but is there a way to illuminate the battlefield only when it's active with a ball up there, and then goes out again once the ball is gone?

Has anyone made a mod for this?

#2682 3 years ago
Quoted from bballfan:

Good idea!
Maybe somehow wire it with the ball kicker since it is only active when the upper playfield is in play.

I've thought about that, but I don't think you can just "wire" it. I think it needs a small logic board to provide illumination to the battlefield only when it's active.

Perhaps using a mod like the pig board, maybe. Someone smart must know how to do this.

2 months later
#2931 3 years ago
Quoted from PunkPin:

Having some trouble with my battlefield enterence drop target, sometimes it works flawlessly no matter how long I play, sometimes it works for a few games then stays down, others it does not work at all,
During test when trying to activate the target during times its not working I get a strange pulsing noise.
I've pulled and cleaned the mech and everything looks fine, any ideas where to be looking for the problem?

I had intermittent issues that I fixed when I disassembled and cleaned the target and adjusted the switch.

My original yellow target was very flexible and was inconsistent. After I replaced it with the harder plastic target, it was been working flawlessly. Much snappier and totally dependable. And looks way better too.

1 month later
#2984 3 years ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

They arrived, but they forgot to add the connection at the end, and are being redone for release soon I hope.
I grabbed a bunch and installed a few..
I'm very happy.
I'm out of town and can't post it until official release, but will try to send you pic or video when I return next week.
I am still toying with other applications as it lights inside ramps, outside ramps sides, back etc in a unique and different way

Would it be possible to have this battlefield LED strip only be lit when there is a ball on the upper playfield, ie, just when the paddle is active?

1 month later
#3106 3 years ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

Has anyone noticed that when you shoot the scene hole next to the right ramp and quickly pull the trigger you initiate a duck quacking sounds.

Well, if we're revealing tricks about shooting the trigger during a game, give it a try in the middle of the "Duel of Wills" video mode.

It is very helpful for the EB.

1 month later
#3268 3 years ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

The Shadow did not apparently want to welcome me back into the club last night
Luckily with tipping upside down the vast majority of glass didn't get into the game or cabinet, still wanted to cry.

You are not alone in the upside-down Shadow experience. I was moving my Shadow down three narrow, steep steps. The wheels got stuck on the last step, so I pushed it forward until the center of gravity got away from me. I flipped over with the game holding onto the hand truck.

I had completely wrapped the game with thick blankets. I managed to avoid damage (except to my pride). No broken glass at all.

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1 week later
#3328 3 years ago

After years of ownership, I finally beat the Final Battle, becoming a member of that club.

Getting a new color LED display last week rejuvenated my focus.

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#3331 3 years ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

Kick ass RTS!!
I just started tearing mine apart for a restore. Hopefully, I can get it back together by Christmas and begin my quest for the Final Battle!!
Any tips for us noobs?

My game is on factory settings. It helps to focus on starting scenes. Starting all the scenes is usually the hardest requirement for me. You need to average starting more than one scene per ball.

I also rely on extra balls. You earn one for finishing the Battlefield (you still need to collect it at the scoop).

It also helps to get the extra ball during the "Duel of Wills" video mode. A key trick to get that extra ball during the video mode is to use the gun trigger. If you pull the trigger, it will clear the screen and give you a few seconds to score the targets without risk. One of the targets is an EB reward. Try to play the video mode as long as you can before pulling the trigger - the EB target shows up toward the end. This extra ball is instantly awarded - no scoop shot needed.

3 weeks later
#3357 2 years ago

Your lit battlefield is nice, but when is someone gonna figure out how to only light the upper playfield when it is active?

A mod like that would probably sell to almost everyone who owns a Shadow.

#3363 2 years ago
Quoted from Agent_Hero:

Before doing this, I was looking for a thin, magnetic, motion-activated LED light strip. I found a few for $10 on Amazon that are about 5 inches wide and an inch deep that might've fit either at the front or to the right of the Battlefield, but it probably wouldn't have worked reliably enough.
amazon.com link »
Thoughts on that one?

An interesting idea for sure. It's cheap enough to give it a shot.

There has gotta be someone clever enough to figure out how to work something out.

#3367 2 years ago
Quoted from cavalier88z24:

You have the LED or LCD? I want to see the LED

As others have said, the true vibrancy of the LED colors are not properly captured. It looks amazing and very bright in person.

Check the reflection of the red in the playfield glass to see how deep the red really looks.

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#3381 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

How many people are interested in this? Are you willing to build your own boards? Or does it have to be plug and play?

Plug and play is preferred.

But If you can make a working prototype, I'd be willing to build my own board provided there were clear instructions on what components to buy, and how to assemble and install.

1 week later
#3417 2 years ago
Quoted from someoneelse:

Just replaced Aurichs great translite with this beauty. Love it, think this one will stay!

This is the best of the bunch for sure. Looks great.

Only wish the lettering was in green to match the lettering on the apron.

1 month later
#3484 2 years ago
Quoted from Cheeks:

Four seconds might be a little long on the delay, but it shouldn't be a big deal if it's on slightly after losing the ball.

Some of my most successful battlefields happen when I keep the paddle still and it bounces back and forth multiple times. Not sure if 4 seconds might not be a safer default. I'd hate to have to move the paddle to keep the lights on when keeping it still is working on the hit total.

It's tough to know for sure. But in any case, I'm interested as well.

1 week later
#3539 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Well I checked a bunch of suppliers for the best part prices and lowest shipping cost. The battlefield lighting mod (leds not included) is going to run $48.00 + $4.00 US for shipping in the lower 48 states. Let me know (PM me) if your still interested as I will start ordering parts on Monday.

Do you have video of a working prototype?

3 weeks later
#3582 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

» YouTube video Lets see if it works.

It works. So how/when can we order?

1 month later
#3726 2 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

Hey guys,
Having an issue where the yellow paddle on the battle field is constantly firing once the ball enters the upper play field. I'm sure there is a switch that is stuck to close up there making it think the paddle has just been hit by the ball. Any helpful tips would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Craig

Check the opto switch on the battlefield. When the opto path is blocked, it fires the coil.

It sounds like the opto may be dirty or possibly a loose wire/solder at the opto.

3 weeks later
#3792 2 years ago
Quoted from robotron:

the shafts for the divertors on the ramps are so sloppy I was looking at them and there is a pretty big gap in between the shafts and the playfields. anybody recommend or put a bushing in there?

I drilled a flat wide washer to the underside of the playfield to act as a guide for the diverter shaft.

It was easier to drill holes into the washer than I expected. A Google search provided instructions on how to do this.

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5 months later
#4221 2 years ago
Quoted from xsonics2k2:

Has anyone installed a Color DMD LED Display on Shadow instead of an LCD display? I'm beginning to prefer the brightness of the LED more than LCD, and wanted to see pictures of a video of an LED before I pull the trigger.

LED display pics are in post 3367. Here is a link.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/68#post-3489307

4 months later
#4456 1 year ago

Looking for Shadow main cabinet decals, (mosty just the left side).

Anyone selling or know where they can be bought?

1 month later
#4563 1 year ago
Quoted from KrazyIvan14:

Hi, I'm looking at picking up The Shadow or Tommy as my next pinball for the gameroom. Does anyone have the width of the backbox? I've seen everything ranging from 27-30" on-line, my door frame tops out at 29" and I'm not looking to take it off again. Thanks in advance.

Shadow is 28.75". ( I just measured it.)

It will be a tight fit with just 1/8" on each side, but it will fit,

1 month later
#4593 1 year ago
Quoted from SeaLawyer:

Love the look of the red DMD. Hadn't seen that before. It goes beautifully with the red in Aurich's design.

Red is not bad, but if you're making a change to the display, go color DMD.

The color LED on this game looks great, especially the green color in the score numbers.

1 month later
#4705 1 year ago
Quoted from Mudflaps:

My cabinet speaker works, but is very quiet. I sent out the board for repair (thinking that’s where the problem resided), but to no avail.
I have a pinnovators board for an external sub, and the sub is also quiet (but works). Any others with this problem or suggestions?

Check that standard adjustment setting 28 Minimum Volume Override is set to "Yes."

#4707 1 year ago
Quoted from Mudflaps:

Hmmm. It was set to No. Changed it to Yes, no difference.

Not really sure what the issue would be. I also have the same set up with a pinnovator board and an external sub.

I could only suggest disconnecting the external sub to remove that variable. Then check the wires and connectors on the board.

4 weeks later
#4753 1 year ago
Quoted from Squeakman:

I encountered a problem tonight with my upper playfield paddle. It stopped kicking the ball forward. I checked the switches and everything is ok except when I go into solenoid T.4 15 Mini Kicker it is not pulsing. Is this the paddle kick? I'm assuming either a wire came loose from the coil or the coil is bad? I just wanted some opinions before i tear the playfield off and try to diagnose.

You don't need to "tear the playfield off" to check for a loose or broken wire on the battlefield.

The upper pf will lift up like a car hood. Just remove the thumb screws, before lifting it up. No tools required.

3 months later
#5042 1 year ago
Quoted from Scoot:

Sometimes my TS will think the ball drained when I am still playing. Sometimes it will spit out two balls. Most of the time it plays normal. All the trough optos seem to be working ok in switch mode. It seems to happen randomly. Anyone have any suggestions?

Did you recently replace any switches with diodes?

I had a similar experience with strange behavior on my Shadow, and it was because I installed the diode backwards on a newly replaced switch.

Reversed it, and everything was good.

2 months later
#5267 10 months ago
Quoted from RockBass14:

Are there lower profile spotlight shades out there

Check out the Led Flex bulbs from Comet.

It will allow you to bend and aim the light while still providing clearance for the pf glass without interfering with the ball on the battlefield.

2 months later
#5593 7 months ago
Quoted from Brog319:

Ok, definitely not seated all the way. Take a look at difference in backboard. Problem is I don’t see anywhere that I can make an adjustment. In the second photo it shows where the base of the kicker assembly is bottoming out on the plexi guard piece on the playfield.
Any ideas?
Thanks
[quoted image][quoted image]

Lift the mini playfield up and reseat it .

It is hinged and lifts up like a car hood. Probably wasn't aligned properly the last time it was set back down before it was tightened.

1 month later
#5763 6 months ago
Quoted from BrewNinja:

My biggest problem with the LED displays is they are too bright even when turned down to the dimmest setting. Plus I like having options of what to display. I've really grown in love with the Scan mode of the LCD.

My problem with LCD is the colors are bland and washed out.

The LED is not only brighter (which I think looks better) , but the colors are more vivid. Especially the greens in Shadow.

I also think the classic dots look the best. And full disclosure, I've got both LCD (2) and LED (3).

Prefer LED for all future purchases. .

1 month later
#6061 4 months ago

I saw this topper from the ACNC thread and thought it'd be a cool mod to flash during the multiball as it kind of copies the DMD. It's a Gemmy LED projector.

Anyone know how it could activate only during MB?

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