Quoted from MANTO1975:
Thanks for your opinions everyone, still cant make up my mind.
Here’s my all black one we just finished recently. Everything black. Almost.
Quoted from Jimmyhonda:
So, I’m still having issues with my shooter plunger. It works well every other or every third plunge. When it works well, it shoots it up the wire form very well. When it doesn’t work, it doesn’t even make it all the way up the wireform. I checked the alignment and it’s good. I also checked for any loose screws. Everything seems okay. Any suggestions on what to do? Thanks everyone.
Get an iPhone and film the launch sequences in slo motion. Then watch back and you’ll see what happened.
Slo mo is invaluable for working out things like this.
I had a similar launch issue with my Metallica - the ball wasn’t sitting square on the launch forks and it would launch off centre and do really crazy stuff. Slo mo captured what was happening and I could fix it.
Quoted from Jimmyhonda:
Hello, the slo mo didn’t reveal anything. It seems to lack enough power to get the ball up the wireform every few shots. I’m stumped on this.
Is the ball rattling along the lane or wireform after it is fired?
Any contact with the rails or something like that will slow the ball and make the sequence fail.
Quoted from zrbrt:
Anyone have a link to the recommended switch to eliminate ball hang up on the left ramp (when diverted to the right)? Thanks!
Talking of Slo Mo ...
Last week I filmed that switch to see why it wasn’t triggering.
I’d replaced it with a longer arm switch ... mucked around with it for a month ... and I’d still get the occasional “no trigger”
I put the footage on Facebook - check it out.
Sorry if you don’t have facebook ...
(Spoiler alert ... for those that don’t ... the ball jumps the switch lever!)
Quoted from gunstarhero:
It has a plastic bit that relocates the switch.
That way, the ball is settled down before it hits the switch area.
I guess it depends how your game is set up. I know some have had success with the longer switch in the standard position. And I know others where it hasn’t. My game is super fast and the ball flies up that ramp, as you can see in the videos. It jumps the switch 1 out of 3 times on average.
Quoted from Chitownpinball:
lighted flipper buttons .. now theyre $39.99. Of course we need TWO lol.
Just make your own.
Clear flipper buttons - $1.75 each
Lamp holder - $1 each
LED - 50c each
5 minutes to run wires from the coin door light to the lamp holders.
PS I just noticed that Pinball Life has the brite button ones for $29 if you’re too lazy to make some.
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:
Rotadave in particular posted a few times about this very matter.
That guy is half way through making a clear Perspex extension to move the switch further along (as per the photo on my previous posts)
Only issue is the Shadow is in my apartment and I’m in my house for a few weeks. So progress is stalled.
Quoted from Stuieb84:
The decals are from:
I would express caution in only applying vinyl to one portion of cabinet as inevitably the colours will differ. Pics below show the differences in tone and hue.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I’m thinking that those guys make the decals for retro refurbs. They look very similar.
Did you have any “bleed” area at the edges?
The ones I got from Retro were so tight, they only just fitted. Like ... they didn’t need any trimming.
They should make them with an inch all the way around as not all cabinets are the same .. especially the ones that have start button emblems like CFTBL.
Right! I had a few PMs a few weeks back about how I was going to fix my lower right ramp switch so it actually registers EVERY time the ball is shot up there. You may remember I shot a video showing the ball jumping the standard switch.
So let’s make one!
This has been done many times before ... it’s the best way to go IMO.
I made mine out of 3mm high impact acrylic. But you could use aluminium or metal.
I machined the acrylic down to approx 100mm long x 30mm wide.
I marked out where the vertical support was on the wire form, and filed out a small groove to fit around it.
I drilled the holes for the switch and mounted it to the acrylic. I just used the long lever switch that I had on the machine, but the standard switch would also work fine. I used the standard switch screws and mounting plate.
At the other end, I used 2x machine screws, washers and lock nuts. I had to drill out the mount a little as these were the smallest screws I had on hand. Smaller diameter machine screws/bolts would be better.
I bent the switch lever to suit, so it always registers, but a slow ball doesn’t get stalled on it.
Works like a champion. Registers every single time. SUPER VENGEANCE!
Quoted from Chitownpinball:
Ya. Ive noticed some times if I shoot that shot slow enough itll come back down the wireform. Wondering if the switch will allow it to come back or if it hangs up.
Looking at it closer though, that switch position is in a spot where it shouldnt be rolling back. Nevermind. Disregard.
When you gonna sell this mod? Lol
I’d suggest pitch is wrong or ramp isn’t installed right ... no balls going backwards on my machine or any Shadow I’ve ever played.
Occasionally one will go a bit slower down the ramp, from a slow shot up the ramp, or a rattle around, you do have to make sure that the switch will allow those slower balls to pass. Taking off the glass all the time sucks.
Quoted from allsportdvd:
Funny thing is I pay 2 lots of shipping and it’s still less than half that $69USD
Me too. My last order the quoted $75 USD shipping, it worked out at $30 NZ bucks ($20 USD) including Marco shipping to the NZ post depot in Portland and then NZ post shipping it to me.
If I’m going to the States my suitcase always comes back full of pinball stuff.
Quoted from dluth:
I have tried twisting it, pulling it. I’m almost at the stage where the only option seems to be to cut the shaft somehow
Hit it with a heap of WD40/CRC and hit it dead in the end of the shaft with a centre punch and a hammer.
That’ll get the bugger out. Guarantee it.
Quoted from dluth:
I’ll give it a go...someone also suggested heating it with a small blowtorch to loosen any glue that might be there. But it sounds a bit risky... I think I’ll go the WD-40 and punch route first.
As per above ... find a small open ended spanner and put it in the gap to support the bracket. That will take the impact from the punch and make sure the shaft is getting the movement. And minimise any bending on the bracket.
Then give it a whack.
Quoted from pinballjah:
Thanks. It is the sub woofer, something keeps blowing on the soundboard
It’s not a sub, it’s just a speaker.
(Unless you changed it to a different speaker ... )
If it keeps blowing doesn’t it indicate an issue with the speaker? Why not swap in your Dr Who speaker for a while and see what happens ...
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