I'm in the club! Picked mine up last weekend. Needs a lot of work and hasn't been cleaned in over 12 yrs.! I'll post pics when it's done.

One problem I'm having; The wall target wont drop, but it does register hits and says "ball locked". I see there is a small coil that puts a pin through the target, but I can't seem to activate coils or flashers in the test menu. I've only spent a small amount of time on this so far.

Getting a lot of good ideas here!

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Well then you wouldn't be able to go through the test menu, right? Just messin' with ya'!

I just got done figuring out you have to hold the coin door switch in to cycle through the coil and flasher testing. Faulty switch for the wall target, amongst about 6 others. Plus the Battlefield paddle moves fine one way but drags the other, giving another error message.

I do believe it'll look good after a full teardown and cleaning. It's still fun to play even with the dirt and errors, but only a little fun.

Even with the shades always closed?

Thanks for the tips guys!

Just guessing here, but maybe the screws that hold the magnet are loose? That's the first thing I'd check.

I bought one a few weeks back myself, haven't installed it yet as I'm still in tear-down mode.

Did you guys get the extra sticker with it as well? The one with the guy playing pinball and a girls legs wrapped around him? I thought that was a cool unexpected extra.

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And how about skyline decals for the inner side walls?

I can see it now!

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I was wondering that myself. Mine look really good but I have yet to polish them.

I currently have my new ramps (direct-shipped from Mantis to Chestnut), diverters and gun at Mike's for plating. Not sure what I'm doing with the gun yet, but I have a feeling after I see the ramps, I'll probably want to send in my wire forms as well!

I'll post pics when I get them back.

Two thumbs in the center and carefully push up!

So you already re-seated the ribbon cable? Make sure all the pins line up and you have them on right in the first place, meaning the red stripe is on the left side, although it would be somewhat difficult to hook this up backwards. Whenever I have dmd & sound problems, it's usually associated with the ribbon cable.

There's only one ribbon cable connected to the dmd, but also make sure the other end at the controller board is seated properly as well. With you moving/disconnecting wires and cables it only takes a fraction to distort signals. There's other ribbon cables you may as well check while you're in there (backbox).

Me too!

Are you getting your gun plated as well? I'm having mine done in chrome.

From what I remember, it's the same as the left. Unscrew the set screw that holds the diverter in place under the pf and it lifts right out.

You can also click on the "Manually select files(s) to upload..." box and choose the pics from your computer. I've had a problem before where I couldn't drag & drop files to the upload box.

I have a friend stopping by later today that has a decal/truck lettering business. I told him about the color difference with the decal everyone complains about, myself included, as I bought one but will not use it. He's pretty good with matching colors as he did a few brand logos for my work truck.

He's going to take playfield pics and use my decal for the lettering, then try to better match the gray with the programs he uses.

I'll keep everyone posted if he can pull this off.

Can't wait to get mine back! Looks great in the pic, I'm sure even better in person!

I'd replace the coil sleeves first, and also check the linkage under the playfield for binding.

L-6 is the latest code. Get a new one from John Wart.

Just a little update on my Shadow project. It's been slow going as time permits, but just tried my hand at wood repair and air brushing for the Sanctum area. It's not perfect, a tad on the light side, but I still have to sand down the edges and clear after I apply the water slide decal. Still better than using the e-bay decal.IMG_0750.JPG

Also got in a bunch of stuff this week, starting with Aurich's awesome translight and a CPR plastic set Monday.IMG_0753.JPG
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Then today, Tuesday, I come home to find a big box from Mike Chestnut. Contents include brass plated wire forms, diverters and new Mantis ramps.IMG_0754.JPGIMG_0755.JPG

Lastly from Mike is the gun. At first I wanted it brass as well, but he said it wouldn't blend unless I went with brass trim and lock down bar, so I said do it in chrome. Well, I'm guessing he went with my original e-mail/wish and it came done in brass. I'm glad he did, because it looks great! I know it doesn't blend and it's not true to the movie, but I really like it. I guess down the road I may consider doing the rest, but that's enough $$ for now!IMG_0756.JPG

I did a mock-up on the cab to get a better idea of how it looks, I won't install until I'm done.

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Just e-mail Mike what you want done and he will quote you a price. I'm not going to list his prices here as I feel that's not my place.

Mantis: http://www.mantisamusements.com/pinball.htm

Scroll down to "Shadow" to see what he has. And he has a lot of other stuff I'd like to have!

Very good work by both these guys, and of course it all looks better in person!

Not on mine.

4 bolts and a wire plug.

Has anyone put black chrome or gold side mirrors on their Shadow? I see Blackbeard (^above^) has chrome mirrors on his, which look good, but I've been tossing around the idea of the others. A bit pricey at $200 or so, but might give a really nice finished look.

I have brass plated side rails and a lockdown bar coming from Chestnut (thanks for that idea, Aurich! I'm going broke!), which should go well with my brass shooter. So I'm leaning towards black chrome to tie everything together and not look like the Gold-member mobile.

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Pale white right now, they haven't seen the sun since last August! HA!

But seriously folks, just got in some brand new black legs, gold colored bolts and levelers. The bolts shine up real nice with chrome polish, but not the levelers. I might end up painting them black if I find they don't look right.

I'll post pics when I get everything done, I'm in the re-populating stage right now. I take a lot of time to do things like this, as I'm very anal with details.

Anyone have a spare Phurba they could sell to me? I have one that has broken screw mounts with not enough left to repair.

Can't find any for sale at any suppliers or e-bay.

Thanks.

I know this is a long shot, but does anyone have an extra ring light harness/connector?

As I'm repopulating my playfield I remembered one was missing (after searching an hour) when I bought it. I suppose I could make one but that would be a real pita.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Love the drawing of the Shadow figure on the bg.

Thanks for posting this.

I had been struggling with my wall target not staying up about 50% of each game. It would click up about 3-5 times simultaneously and then give up and stay down. After many adjustments to the spring tension, switch arm, changing the switch and adjusting it's position, etc., I was at a loss.

Then tonight I took it back apart and noticed the wear in the lever and bracket bushing, very sloppy. I did what you mentioned above and now it's 95% better. It did stay down twice in two practice games, but I'm sure that's because there's still a little slop there.

Time to order some parts. I checked Marco but they're out of stock on the bracket w/bushing, who else has these?

Thanks!

I don't believe you can safely remove them without taking off the ramp, unless you want to bend the plastics up far enough to get an open-end wrench under there. Of course there's that chance the plastic could break, but they are fairly durable.

You only have to loosen the screws a little to slide the Mongol out, but the one on the left side of the ramp would be a real pita, if at all possible.

Just wanted to share a few progress photos, as I'm nearing completion on this pita project.

Tonight's goal; Get new legs and mounting plates installed, got the back ones done anyway 'till the rum slowed me down. And before anyone says anything, I have soft foam strips running on the backside of the cab protectors so they don't dig into the decals.

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Here's a few overall pics for now, I'll post more when it's completely done and probably post a link to an album for those interested.

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Thanks! I believe I got the idea from seeing your pics. I didn't know you could get purple flashers, I'll have to get some. I had the backboard domes also in purple, but they looked too washed out with led's and incandescent bulbs so I put the orange back on.

Your translite looks great, btw. I had to mess with the led's to get the look I wanted. I have 2 greens behind the "Shadow", maybe a bit too green, but of course it looks a lot better in person.

Have you checked the spring that pulls the target down, as well as the lever arm that pushes it up for alignment/wear. Also check the switch to make sure it's working properly and aligned so that it's not preventing the target from always dropping.

This is a good read about the whole target assembly if you haven't read it already:

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-shadow-sanctum-target-repair#post-1285556

The pics that o-din posted on the previous page made me take a closer look at my pivot arm and pin, sure enough they're worn bad and I did what he did, resulting in a fully functioning wall target until I get new parts. At first it would still bind up occasionally, but with another adjustment it works perfectly.

Posted a Shadow restoration thread for anyone interested:

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/me-and-my-shadow-an-amateur-restoration#post-1662945

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Yes sir! Love a fast game of Shadow!

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I haven't played my Shadow at all for 2 weeks due to the left diverter becoming loose (set screws on shaft needed tightening) and became very busy with work/family, so I finally fixed that tonight and gave a quick wax while the glass was off. Played some games and am loving it all over again!

Plus I thought I'd take a balls-eye view while I'm at it, for those interested.

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Did you smoke something funny after jacking up the back? Mine plays pretty damn fast, are you sure you didn't jack up the front legs?

Pretty good idea with the shrink wrap on those led's, I have the same ones but didn't like how I could see them from behind.
Nice machine, btw.

By George, I do believe you're correct! I never thought of it that way, does make sense. But it will be faster as far as shooting down the pf or wireforms, which can also lead to more drains.

I heard someone in Michigan became a member of this club recently, but hasn't checked in yet.

I only have this pic as a clue of who it may be, sent to me by an informer:

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If anyone can identify this man, and find him sober, please report him to the Shadow Club Authorities for immediate questioning and a two-player game!

Those 3 pieces are easy-break plastics included in your kit.

I made a clear-lexan protector to go with this piece so as not to blow-through the replacements.

This pic shows the original broken piece, replacement and clear protector I made.

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You need to push the battlefield forward from the back of the wood panel it's attached to, then put the thumb-screw back in to keep it in place. I'm assuming you didn't put the thumb-screw back in, or tightly enough judging by your pic.

Added this pic for clarity, the thumb-screw is seen on the left in the middle of the white rubber. Did yours come with it?

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You should check to be sure nothing is blocking the battlefield from being perfectly lined up and resting flat on the poles. I remember I had to do some minor adjustments after putting everything back together. Something is obviously keeping your battlefield from sitting where it should be.

My VUK wireform sits the same way yours does. I thought it should be centered but there's no other way to mount it, at least I don't think so.

Took a closer look at my VUK wireform mounts and noticed the right side was sitting on top of the plastic protector, the gap would occasionally let a ball fall off. Took it all apart, trimmed the protector and put a nut under the left side of the wireform mount so it would center out with the battlefield. All better now.

Before:
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After:
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EDIT: Are all of yours sitting at an angle like this? (Pic #4) I don't see how else to mount this and the battlefield is as far forward as possible.

Then a few weeks later.............

"WTT: Creature for a nice Shadow"

I know the feeling....my daughter recently turned 15. Unfortunately, as her father, she's *top heavy* to put it nicely. Can't wait to meet her first boyfriend.....

Read this guide by Vid, very informative and plenty of pics to go by:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-shadow-sanctum-target-repair#post-1285556

Mantis Amusements (Kerry Stair) ramps are the ones you want, I used these and they're perfect.

http://www.mantisamusements.com/pinball.htm

Click on "Shadow".