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Quoted from Tommy_Pins:How's the lasting ability with this pin. I'm leaning towards this for my next pin.
In my opinion very good! Got mine since 2012 and not having a single thought of selling it. It's a challenging pin just like FatPanda said and it will keep you playing for a long time.
My father in law 3d printed me a 35cm (13.8 inch) high phurba dagger I'll use as a topper! I want to add a bit of black paint to make the details pop more and might be adding a led light/flasher below it. (I know it's not the same dagger as in the movie, but it's still cool haha) What do you think?
It's part number 03-9214 right?
Marco is out of stock: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-9214
Ministry of Pinball is out of stock: https://www.ministryofpinball.nl/nl/the-shadow-mini-playfield-ramp.html
Pinball Spare Parts is out of stock: https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/ramps/ramps-plastic/03-9214.html
So a lot of shops had them, but don't at the moment.. I would suggest putting a wanted ad on Pinside, you might get lucky. Good luck with the search.
pasted_image (resized).pngAfter ignoring them for years I finally did it; I bought a ColorDMD for my Shadow!
Wasn't a fan of it at first and thought they made 90's games look "too modern", but played it in the wild with a ColorDMD and I HAD to have one myself.. So much more detail!
Will post a photo once I have it.
Quoted from Scoot:That is not normal. There should be no change in performance. Maybe reseat the ribbon cables. I have noticed sometimes after installing a color dmd, I may encounter problems with 12v light mods I might have installed.
Thank you Scoot , will reseat and check
So I reseated the connectors of my ColorDMD and uploaded the software again, but still the same 0.5 seconds of black screen between animations.
In this video from SDTM, the same can be seen at 13:17 =
Starting to think these black screens were always there (and are supposed to be there) but I didn't look at the screen a lot until I bought a ColorDMD lol
Thoughts anyone?
Quoted from Pinovogel:In a normal dmd you see 2 frames merging.On the colordmd you miss this scene’s ,so i think they paint it black for a smoother transition.
Thank you Pinovogel , that's all I needed to know
Quoted from Djshakes:Why do you have a credit dot after 8 years?
There are some things that need to be fixed, but currently busy repairing other machines
Quoted from RTS:That credit dot might represent a beneficial error that helped with your high score.
Actually the opposite.
The target bank on the upper flipper stays low, so it's harder to finish the upper playfield. (And impossible to do so in the Final Battle)
Also it's not a high score hahah
I'm looking for a switch extender plate for the left ramp, anyone got a spare?
Otherwise I need to make my own one.
Quoted from hawknole:Hi, just joined the club, looking for the main cabinet decals as I have the backbox ones. PM if so, thanks.
Edit: I would take even just a front main cab decal, thx
Some stores in Europe have them. No clue tho if they are any good:
https://pinballdecals.eu/shop/the-shadow-pinball-cabinet-decals-set/
The youth nowadays know more bad words than in all pinball machines combined
Shadow is perfectly fine, nothing in there a 5 year old doesn't know yet hahaha
Quoted from Shadowguy:Hello, kind people of Pinside!
I have one pinball machine - The Shadow and I have a problem (one that is entirely my fault) with it - to help a friend try to reproduce plastics for it, I dismantled a perfectly fine working pin and took a lot of pictures and some paper notes about the particularity of screws and nuts that go on each part that I took off. Naturally, it took quite some time to muster will power to assemble it again during which I lost both the notes and the pictures (I can't find them because I changed the computer in between). I am almost done, but there is a big problem:
- some nylock nuts won't go on remaining posts.
My question:
Are all nylock nuts for plastics and slingshot posts and wireframe mounting posts (where you tighten the wireframes ramps to the playfield) the same size and thread or there are 2 sizes (it seems like it is from the picture: https://treasurecovepinball.com/Library/photo-gallery/galleries/shadow-r1/images/19.jpg - the closest one to the camera seems bigger)? I have 8 left and they won't fit to the upper slingshot posts (where wireframes go) or where wireframes fit the side wood.
I have a horror thought that somehow I mistakenly used the "big" ones to tighten elements on the plastic that goes under the left phurba ramp (this one: http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NXRfM92sdfA/UixlMGgDN8I/AAAAAAAAAnc/my3v9qqgXy4/s1600/P9080075.JPG) and now it is a huge work and fuss to dismantle it again and check. Then again, would "big" ones tighten at all at place where a smaller one should go? Is it possible to confuse them?
I am not in us, so getting new ones might be a problem with the quarantine and all (would have to order from germany or nederlands) since there are no imperial measure screws here, only metric.
would you know the exact part number for these two nylock nuts, so I don't accidentally order the wrong one. The part sheet is not very useful - it doesn't say which part goes where, they are just listed and there is tons of them.
thank you!
I believe 2 different sizes are used, I do not know what the size is though... You might find replacement ones at www.flipperwinkel.nl or www.ministryofpinball.nl
Quoted from Saltimbanco:They also have the cabinet decals over at pinballcenter. Once they're removed the European VAT tax, comes to 162€. I don't know much about them, but I was about to make an order..
https://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts-by-game/the-shadow/9489/cabinet-decal-set-for-the-shadow?c=0
Do not buy decals, translites or plastics from Pinball Center in Germany!
Altough they offer some stuff cheaply that is either very expensive elsewhere or simply nowhere else to be found, their quality sucks!
I needed the missing Arwen plastic for my LOTR and print quality was very very bad, still better than nothing but man...
Heared the same things about decals and translites so be warned: their printer sucks!
Quoted from FatPanda:There are a lot of grip makers on Etsy. I would venture that you could find someone to make you a set if you sent them pics, measurements, or the gun/grips itself. Does anyone know what gun the shooter is based off of (if any)?
https://www.etsy.com/market/wood_pistol_grips
The pistols used by the Shadow (Alec Baldwin) were highly customized .45 Win Mag LAR Grizzly Pistols. The pistols, named Silver Heat, were custom built by L.A.R. Manufacturing Inc., who built four pistols for the film, backdating their Grizzly to look like an over-sized M1911 by extending the slide and frame.
Source: http://www.imfdb.org/wiki/Shadow,_The#LAR_Grizzly_Pistol_.45_Win_Mag
So I'm guessing Colt M1911 or LAR Grizzly gun grips might fit
800px-ShadowLARSilverLongSlide (resized).jpg
Wall plastic is driving me nuts.. I have replaced it in 2015 and it needs replacing again. The bottom of the wall breaks because it is too thin. Had glued a piece of sheet metal to the bottom, but it came off..
As far as I'm aware the mech works like it should. Recently took it apart and cleaned it. Anyone got advice for adjustment or a "stronger" wall? Right now the wall shoots up too far up and gets stuck, making the game unplayable
Quoted from pinballjj:6 years is not too bad ? .
i would super glue the crack and then wrap a piece of clear gorilla tape up both sides and then cut out the notch where the washer slides
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:Just buy a new one. Plastic gets old and brittle over time.
Ow wait it is 2021 lol, 6 years is not so bad indeed. I'll buy myself a new one, this one is long gone Thanks!
Quoted from GRUMPY:You need to know why there is too much movement. I would look at the plunger and coil stop. As these parts wear out the up movement increases. Also someone may have use an incorrect part, like a shorter plunger, this would beat the bottom of the target until it breaks. Remember the target is not the stop the coil stop is.
Recently took the assembly apart and do not remember checking the coil stop! I did however replace the sleeve and clean the plunger, it moves very smooth. Will check if it is the right part (pretty sure it is) and order a new coil stop and wall. Thanks!
Quoted from pinballjj:e target is binding when it gets pushed up it would put more force on the bottom of the target lead
Quoted from Manny65:The most damage on the bottom of the wall target is in the centre where the plunger pushes the target up. If the target is being pushed up until it becomes stuck, then the plunger is trying to force the target even higher and damaging the bottom of the target. I agree with grumpy I'd check the coil stop (possibly worn or the wrong part - it's supposed to be https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-18746) and double check the plunger and linkage that pushes the wall up are correct (these can become worn but I've not heard of it damaging the target).[quoted image]
I will have to check the movement of the wall and the arm that pushes it up I think you're right, the wall gets pushed too high so it gets stuck, and it might be why it is broken. When I bought the machine in 2012 the wall was getting a bit stuck on the switch so it didn't rest on the arm, and the arm slammed into the bottom of the wall everytime it wanted to raise it. Will have to check both of these things. Thanks!
New wall and coilstop ordered. Will install those asap and look if the movement is okay. Hopefully this new wall will last 5 years or longer
Quoted from JvdS:Where can I buy them (in Europe)?
Dang.. if I knew someone nearby wanted one too, we could have ordered them together hahah
My Shadow stopped working
On power up, the display does not show anything and multiple controlled lamps on the pf are out.
If I press the flipper buttons in attract mode, I do hear attract sounds.
Pressing the start button does nothing.
Anyone have any clue what is going on here? Did not move or touch the game in a month.
Here is a video:
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:Did you do the normal stuff like check the fuses and reseat the ribbon cables? Looks like a ribbon cable issue to me.
Yes, all fuses ok and reseated the ribbon cables.
Funny thing is: I powered it on again today, and all seems fine
Maybe a temporary short or a component on its way out or something?
Quoted from Manny65:When you had the issue, did you try turning it off and powering it on again? Did it power on again with the same issue?
The fact that there were multiple symptoms (some of the controlled lamps were out, the machine wouldn't start a game and the DMD had no images), tends to indicate a CPU board issue or possibly power. If it occurs again measure the voltage at each of the TP on the power driver board, just to rule this out. Power the game off, press on any socketed chips on the CPU board and try powering on again
When I had the problem I shut off the game and powered it on again: same issue.
If the issues occur again, I will measure the test points and try pressing the socketed chips.
Thanks!
Quoted from Pvdj446:You can find them on Etsy and will become available on pinballmods.co for US customers.
Very cool!!
Are there lamps behind the headlights?
Quoted from Aurich:And yeah, last run was 2021 I think. Maybe that was the last one, who knows!
Got this really weird display issue all of the sudden..
Text is missing!
Anyone got a clue?
Also, something seems up with controlled lights...
Quoted from Luke_Nukem:Check your ribbon cables. Wouldn't hurt to pull em, and re-seat them all. Have you done anything to the machine recently? Was it all working for awhile before the issues occurred?
Thanks, will do that! Weirdly, after the machine was on for about 5 minutes, the issue was gone..
It worked perfectly before I powered it on today, but it has not been played for about a month I think.
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