In case you missed it, Aurich is doing another run of his translite/speaker panel/instruction card package:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-new-original-alternate-translite-speaker-panel-cards/page/25#post-3178613

Get 'em while they're hot!

Those look very "lamp cord aftermarket". Maybe an external speaker at some point?
Where does the other end connect?

Do you mind sharing who are you sending them to for plating and what is the cost?

PPS at $99 was the best price I could find.

I think they are both stickers, sold by the same guy on Ebay. Search "Shadow pinball" on Ebay and it should show up. He also sells a brick pattern decal.
I put a sheet of model plastic brickwork there. Looks better than the black wood, but probably more work than it was worth to cut and fit it, and one of the decals would probably look just as good.

Tommy - Part numbers are in the repair kit instructions which is up on IPDB.org

http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/2528/Shadow_pinball_A_20417_Repair_Kit_Pinion_Gear_50032.pdf

Not shown in the game manual since it is used in several games and is in the general parts manual.
This should help:
http://www.planetarypinball.com/reference/partsmanuals/WMS_Parts_Grey_16-9562-A/index.html#/414/

Might have put you on the facing page, Page 5-10. Page 5-10a is the one you want. Page 5-10a is on the right if it comes up with two pages shown. Might have to flip to the next page if only 5-10 is shown.
Check and see if it's the spring shown as part 17 in the diagram, connecting to the target and the bracket.
Edit: Also check the other spring shown as part 23d, on the knock down assembly.

Not really available. I ended up needing one when drilling out a stripped Allen screw went badly. I found one come up on Ebay by chance. They appear now and again, but I could not find them in stock at a retailer. Good luck, I hate those things now!

You are looking for this:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-18983

I'd be in at a reasonable cost. I'd prefer plug and play, since I solder like a moron. Maybe consider a finished version and a kit version.

The wireform habitrails also. Better than new metal ramps are available, but not the wireforms.
There were repo plastics available, but seem to be maybe sold out now.

Also, the crank arms and mechanisms below the playfield that make the phurba diverters work.

Did you mean left instead of right?

I really like the way it looks as though Mr. Baldwin is being stabbed in the head!

I'm in.

The Shadow knows!

Yes, as bballfan says, Planetary Pinball and Bay Area have them. Don't buy them off Ebay, it's about a $50 mark up.

Installed my Grumpy light mod today. Super easy and just as described.
I used a purple light strip on the metal deflector behind the drop targets for the added GI. There is some reflection of the mini-playfield, but I can live with it. If I decide to change that to something else, it should be easy.
Used another purple light strip on the back of the plastic enclosure in front of the kicker for the activated light.
I like it. You really notice when the extra light comes on and the mini-playfield is very lit up. Also, since the GI turns off at certain points, you really notice that.

Grumpy also packed the extra $2 that I accidentally sent him in with the mod. What a nice guy, he doesn't seem Grumpy at all!

That is great both ways!
Nice pickup!

Loose wire on the coil making contact in some positions, but not all?

That piece was included in the replacement plastic sets, so there should be some new or used/good ones out there.

Seems like Mantis is it. Haven't dealt with him, but his reputation is very good.
You could try this guy for repairs: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welding-service-for-broken-scoops-guides-ramps-etc

Make sure the glass is slid all the way up while you are putting the lockdown bar in place. Sometimes it will slide down just a tiny bit and keep the lockdown bar from seating all the way down.
Yikes! Those batteries are scary. The small daughter board that the battery holder is mounted on is standard. Good thing it was there!

$285 for the backboard, and another $75 or $145 to light it?
Nope.

Here's the backbox decals. Not sure the full cabinet decals are available.
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=PP&Screen=PROD&Category_Code=GS-2528&Product_Code=PPA-TS-HEADSETNG

Currently number 3 on the CPR repro list.
Go sign up.
http://www.classicplayfields.com/order.html

Not really. They will produce more if they get more sign ups. from the website:

"Sometimes we still accept candidates onto waiting lists because we have extra material to extend the run on the fly. If so, a "Full, but Open" email link is provided. If you see a playfield marked "Full, Closed" it means we have a full preorder AND a full waiting list and no ability to extend the run."

Shadow is shown as "Full, but Open".

Usually you can move the wire from the old switch to the new one. Is yours missing or damaged?

onemillion (resized).jpg

Mine has a washer or two under one side also. Works fine.

I think this is it:
https://www.pinballlife.com/7268-bulbs-sold-individually.html

That looks like the set screw collar on the diverter arm is moving independently from the crank arm. The collar and arm should be one solid piece. It used to be hard to find, but Marco now has them in stock. It might just need this piece: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-18983

If you didn't take the spring off to make it easier to see, you're missing the tension spring.
You probaby want to replace the roll pin that connects the crank arm to the armature.
Maybe replace the coil sleeves while you have things apart.
Nice diagrams with part numbers in the manual, which is available on IPDB as PDF if you don't already have it.

Should be. Those are pretty standard, inexpensive parts.
If the tension springs are missing, that's probably a lot of the looseness in your diverters, since they keep tension on the assembly. If that exact spring is not available, it seems like any generally similar size spring would work. The collar on the crank arm in the lower video does look broken though.
yg is probably right about the plunger armature not being available. It would be surprising if that needs to be replaced though. Just clean that up and make sure the plunger ends are smooth when you have it apart. The broken collar on the crank arm might be weldable, but it is now available as a replacement part.

How is it broken?
One of the screw tabs on mine is broken. It has been "repaired" by having a half-moon shaped metal piece fit around the outside to hold it in place. Less than ideal, but really not noticeable and works fine. Haven't seen that piece for sale.

Yea. It's the right tab on mine. I'll get a pic in here later.

Are you looking for the yellow kicker head? or the large flat red/orange/yellow plastic piece? Or the huge black plastic piece that wraps all the way around the whole assembly?

Kicker head: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-9225

Seems I didn't remember that correctly. It's the left tab that's broken.
Here's how it looks.
Hard to notice when you are playing, and basically invisible when the drops are up.

mpf2 (resized).jpg

mpf3 (resized).jpg

Ha! That went right past me.

Could be either a problem, or just one of those things.
Try swapping in a new fuse and see if it blows quickly.
If you have 5 Amp on hand try one of those while you get some 7s. Don't put anything bigger in there (obviously).

You're not an idiot, since you figured it out.
Easy problems are sometimes the most difficult to diagnose.
Glad you're fixed up.

Seems like it should be easy to find buttheads around here.

It's to mount the ramp switch in the extended position, as discussed previously in this thread.
Eliminates the issue of the ball blowing past the switch without registering.
Not really what I think of as an airball protector, but not sure what else you would call it.

Swap games with me before you do all that work.

On a serious note, see if Grumpy is still selling his mini-playfield light mod. It's cool and useful.

Here's the video you posted of it in action:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/72#post-3623572

Download the repair kit instructions PDF from IPDB.org. That should show most, if not all, of what you need.
Full manual is also on there if you don't already have it.

Ordered from there several times no problems.
Never bought cabinet decals, but the things I bought were good quality.
They are usually more expensive when other suppliers also have the same part.
Price on those doesn't look bad though.

You already have the Aurich translite. That was the biggest one for me. The factory translite is awful.
I really like the Grumpy light mod that lights up the battlefield when the ball is up there.

I disagree with this, but different folks will have different opinions.
I think that "The Shadow" should have some shadow to it.

Send a PM to Aurich. He has been keeping a list of folks who want it and periodically making a batch.

Yes. Slightly different for each ramp. See the pics between your post and this one.

Seems like those plastics also restrain the sides of the ramps and help keep the welds from breaking, which is a common issue.

Not sure what you mean by that. Do the ball trough switches register correctly in switch test?
Game will not start if it thinks any balls are missing, and you can have them not seated correctly in the trough after doing work where you lift the playfield.

I admire your OCD!
Looks pretty good too.

Member's Mark is the store brand for Sam's Club/Walmart products.

Yeah, the magnet holds the ball there for a second, releases, then re-activates and flings the ball. Causes wear on that spot.

Mylar, I think.
I have playfield protectors on a couple games and like them.
I would be concerned that a protector might mess up the magnet function. I could be wrong, if anyone has actual experience.

Hadn't played my Shadow in a while, and it turned on but didn't play last night.

Here's what I have:
GI is on.
Will start a game (without kicking out a ball)
Flippers work.
Sound works.
Board indicator LEDs seem correct.
No coils, game or test
No flashers, game or test
No controlled lights, game, test, or attract.
I get a single "bong" during startup, but the mini-playfield paddle does not move.

Things I have treid:
Factory reset
Reseated ribbon cables and power connections to MPU and driver board
All fuses checked with meter
Driver board TPs with meter. 50V is more like 70, everything else really close.

What next? MPU or driver problem?

Any help appreciated. Maybe The Shadow knows........

It's brick pattern used for model train setups and the like. I have something similar on mine.

Once you change the settings, they should stay that way.
Likely that your batteries are dead, or are not making contact.
The batteries provide power to save your settings when the game is turned off. If they are dead the game will forget your settings and go back to factory.

I think there's a "Damn" or maybe a "G-Damn" in there somewhere.

Yup. This thing can be a pain.

I have done lit flipper buttons on several games taking power from the coin slot lights. I think that includes The Shadow.
As usual, Vid shows how:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-lighted-flipper-buttons-for-418

You can use standard model railroad brick if you want that look. That's what I have.
City decal probably looks better, but brick is way better than just black.

The whole right side of your left ramp is broken off.
If you have that piece, it could be welded back on. Won't look as good as a new ramp, but cheaper.

Which fuse(s) are blowing?

No motor involved in that. Maybe the magnet is a bit loose and vibrating when energized? Should not really be much of a noise.

Not my video, but this should help.

Huh. I have never noticed this. I'm not the most observant though.

Look at section 6.17 on the WPC Pinwiki.
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC

Clean, wax, play, enjoy!

Doesn't seem like a powdercoated gun would look right.
Maybe I'm missing something, but guns are generally chrome or blued steel.

Mine has been good so far, but things can get worn and damaged. Eventually they probably just don't line up anymore.
Not cheap, but Mantis makes really good stuff and has this available:
https://mantispinball.com/product/the-shadow-mini-playfield-bracket/

OK, Pabst it is. I don't think drinking will help. But I'm willing to try.

Mine has been damaged since I got the game. Some previous owner added a "J" shaped metal piece to support it where the tab snapped off. You really don't notice it, and it looks OK. I would replace it if I could though.

Welcome!
Try contacting Arakissun. He's been on here a long time and sells used parts. He might have some of what you need.
Good Luck!

https://pinside.com/pinball/community/pinsiders/arakissun

You can see the hardware in this post a way back:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/205#post-7287025

Wut?

Does your wife have a sister?

Some previous owner of mine added extra posts to narrow down the outlanes by screwing them in below the adjustable posts. You have to look to notice the holes as they are in the black, but they are there.
I agree that person was a donut.

Not sure, but it certainly looks like it should get out of the middle of the road.

Try taking that apart and seeing if the shaft of the diverter is worn or of the bracket being damaged is the problem. The diverter brackets were not available at one time, but they have been re-made and are easier to find if you need to replace it.

The price is too high.