Pictures don't do it justice, but the finish is remarkable. Mike Chestnut's nickel chrome work.
blackchrome_shadow_gun_(resized).jpg

Use a pair of relays that, when energized, reverse the left and right flipper button's wiring. Energize the relays with the battlefield system board as a trigger. Then once the battlefield ends, the relays revert the flipper controls to normal.

Some images of the trunk on my machine. Note the cable-tied rubber ring on the right side - seems to work fine.
img01_(resized).jpg
Close-up. Looks like it's time to replace some rubber parts.
img02_(resized).jpg
img03_(resized).jpg
img04_(resized).jpg

OOPS, sorry, wrong thread. Belongs on ToM. Slip of the mouse!

Yep, mind's the second thing to go.....

What's the deal with those rings? I LED'ed my machine but the bulbs in the rings are bi-pin "grain of wheat" style bulbs, very tiny. The LEDs that came with the kit for the four rings are too large, actually the smaller wedge style bulbs.

Did they change the design of the ring to accommodate a larger bulb - and my machine didn't get the new version? Just guessing.

Anyone?

Actually just wondering if there is an LED replacement for the incandescent bulb. Those four are the only lamps left to LED-ize.

No one makes those rings? I replaced two over the years - should have kept the broken ones now. I could've glued them back together!

Yeah, I'll leave them alone. Minor difference anyway. And, an LED is directional so the jewel would probably be too dim even with a high brightness LED.

About 10 years ago I purchased a gun assembly from a guy who stripped his machine for parts. Paid a fortune for it back then. I wanted a spare for my Shadow and it was pretty beat, so last year I sent it to Mike Chestnut for black chrome plating. It is a work of art, and now that Mike is gone (RIP Mike), it's in my "Shadow Box". Ha, shadow box....

Then I sent my original gun off my game to Mike and he did the same treatment. It's now on the machine, looking great. He did fantastic work.

I've been looking for another since then, but they're rare as hens teeth.

blackchrome_shadow_gun_(resized).jpg

Those are yellow zinc-cadmium plated. Cadmium is on the hit-list with the EPA (and especially California) so the manufacturers have gone away from using cadmium in any manufactured component. Brass would be a good alternative - although even BRASS is on the California hit list as a toxic material - so you're probably stuck with stainless steel or zinc dichromate plated hardware.

Upside to stainless steel: It never rusts. Downside: Your magnetic tools won't hold the part.

Has anyone tried bead-blasting the rails, then using automotive clear-coat on the base metal? I have done this on several antique slot machine parts (as opposed to Cadmium plating which is outlawed) and it turns out incredibly good.

The automotive spec clear coat is very rugged and can take some serious abuse, as you would expect with the ball rolling over it.

Just a thought.

Here's my "spare" black chrome plated by Mike Chestnut. Chrome trigger and all, it just pops out at you when it's on the machine:
guns03 (resized).jpg
blackchrome_shadow_gun (resized).jpg

Long as the machine didn't land on you, nothing too bad, and it can all be fixed. Possibly the jarred connectors will actually improve the wiring inside the cabinet!

I had a problem with the pinion gear in the battlefield rack. It was split and would cause a similar error:
Shadow_upper_playfield_pinion_gear_spec (resized).jpg

Found a replacement with a brass sleeve, and have had no problems since. I had to drill a cross-hole in it to match pin in the drive shaft. It's much stronger than the original gear:
new-gear (resized).jpg

Is your rack gear also brass, or is it plastic? I think they should both be the same material, otherwise it will wear one and not the other.

The brass gear is likely tearing up the plastic rack. Look at the teeth; if it jumps, they're probably worn out. The way that moves back and forth, gotta be wearing out bigtime.

There was a factory upgrade kit A-20417 that replaced the nylon pinion with a brass pinion. I think it's obsolete now.

Your game must have had the upgrade. However, the rack was not replaced, so the brass would eventually grind up the teeth on the nylon rack. I have never seen a brass rack gear on the game. I would guess the other moving parts would destruct because of the unforgiving brass on brass, so that wasn't in the picture.

I believe the factory upgrade didn't work out so well either, because the brass is too rough on the nylon. That said, the original nylon gear would break but wouldn't hurt the rack gear when it did. IMO, I would go with nylon on the pinion, and nylon on the rack.

Original machine, bought new:
edge (resized).jpg

Inspection Tag 1.5 in. wide:
inspection_tag (resized).jpg

Must've been one of the veteran techs working for the company back then. Wonder if he's a pinhead? Or she?

Check the pinion gear condition. A broken ow worn gear will cause that. Or, the roll pin is missing.

The rack and pinion is available as as matched set:
http://www.casperselectronics.com/cart/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=945&search=pinion

The wireform on my machine is virtually touching the battlefield. In fact, when I remove the stud to swing the battlefield up for maintenance, the wireform prevents it from lifting; I need to slightly bend it out of the way to lift the assembly completely.

No problems with the ball returning back to the VUK.

Is it possible the ball is magnetized?

That could explain the off-center, and also, the hold on the ball when the electromagnet is powered down.

Maybe try using new pinballs, from another machine to verify.

Only other thing I could think of is possibly an offset divet in the PF. The effect would be to hold the ball in it, and keep it in it. Maybe.

Try filling the stop area with a couple layers of adhesive acrylic or mylar?

Drilling the bronze gear becomes an excersize in frustration. The cross-drilled hole must line up EXACTLY to the motor shaft and be absolutely dead center of the bronze in order for the roll pin to fit properly. Also, the metal gear against the nylon rack gear tends to wear the teeth off the softer rack gear...IMO it's better to have both gears in plastic to get the diverter to work right.

But.

If you can get that gear centered on a machinist's vise and use the 1/16" drill dead center, it will work for you. You need a pretty precision drill press or milling machine to get it exactly right. The area in which there's no teeth on that gear is shorter than the nylon gear, so you have to take that dimension into consideration.

If the project turns out badly, you might consider this pre-drilled kit with both gears:

http://www.casperselectronics.com/cart/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=945&search=shadow&description=true

Black chrome plated gun. I had the trigger bright chrome plated, and designed a special gasket to separate the two halves just a bit to keep the trigger from binding. Plating build-up caused the bind.
blackchrome_shadow_gun (resized).jpg

The original gearset consisted of the nylon pinion gear and a nylon rack gear. The "upgrade" used a brass gear. Problem was, the brass gear would wear out the nylon rack gear prematurely. Then you have a good pinion and a bad rack gear.

So the best and most effective fix is to use both nylon gears. Eventually, seems the nylon gear breaks at the pin or set-screw mount. But the rack won't take a hit. Eventually means maybe 10-20 years of use.

There was an upgrade pinion gear offered made out of brass. That gear is stronger and less prone to breakage - but - if you use the brass gear, it will quickly destroy the nylon rack gear. Then you have problems.

Best bet is to replace both the rack and pinion at the same time, and don't use grease on either gear. Nylon on nylon has the best wear characteristics.

Part of your problem might be that the pinion gear is split at the drive pin. If it is, your left-right movement will slow down.

Under the upper playfield for the lower part, but I can't find the upper part anywhere.

_1010366 (resized).JPG

I had the same problem with the bracket breaking, so I made a clear acrylic ball guard with 4 holes instead of two. it holds the sides together and even a broken piece will now work perfectly, without re-welding it. Has stood the test of time. Laser cut, here is what it looks like:

guard-shadow (resized).jpg

This plastic covers the diverter entry stainless steel ramp. It attaches each side to eachother, to prevent broken spot welds on the assembly. I think you're referring to the diverter mount?

I had repeated problems with the broken spot welds on the ramp and this seemed to fix it. The welds are broken, but the plastic with four screws holds it in place firmly, and the ramp works 100% even with the disconnected sides.

Placed here. The right side of the ramp spot welds have broken (for the second time) so this plate keeps it positioned with four screws instead of the two screws that the factory used.

Been like this for two years, still held in place, no problems at all. Even with broken welds....
ramp_guard (resized).jpg

Nickel-chrome (Black Chrome) at its finest:
blackchrome_shadow_gun (resized).jpg

Agreed. SEBO do your own design. Maybe do it in German....

This market is too small for knock-off products. Blatant ones are not welcome.

The rack uses three screws with VERY shallow threads. Excessive tightening will rip the threads out. When this happens, you need to replace the rack gear. You can't fix that lack of thread area.

The pinion is nylon as well, so wear is even. Don't use the brass gear (so called upgrade) as it can and will tear up the rack gear.

Light grease will keep clatter to a minimum, but not completely necessary to maintain normal wear.

Grips were the original parts on the factory gun.

Replace the set screw. A new "cup point" screw will lock properly.

Also, if you have enough space, put one short set screw over the other and it'll never come loose.

If a threaded hole is deep enough, you can put a very short set screw in it, tighten it, then put another very short set screw on top of it. When you tighten the second screw, the first will never ever back out. Better than using Loctite because the top screw keeps the bottom screw intact.

When I had my gun plated, I had interference with the plating around the trigger; it would bind when I tightened the screws. So, I made a paper gasket to go in-between the halves. Fixed the binding issue nicely.

Ah, the beauty of a laser cutter.
gun_gasket (resized).JPG

Factory defect with this ramp, and I'm sure some of you have seen breakage. It'd break at the welds on the right side due to excess shock.

So I re-designed the ramp guard to accommodate all four screws. No problem ever since then. Here's the original ramp guard:
shadow_original_ramp_guard (resized).jpg

Adding the new piece solved the breakage problem:
shadow_modified_ramp_guard-lh (resized).jpg

New design:
shadow_new_design_ramp_guard (resized).jpg

Black chrome all the way. And bright chrome for the trigger.
blackchrome_shadow_gun (resized).jpg

Black chrome (nickel plating) looks beautiful...my vote.
blackchrome_shadow_gun (resized).jpg

I had a package going to Ontario, California. The label showed ONTARIO CA. My bad for assuming the post office actually can read a label.

Somehow the post office read that as Canada. They even called me asking for the proper postal code When I repeated the five digit Zip code, the light bulb went off and said, oops, we misread it. Four weeks later...

I kept getting broken welds on this ramp, so I put this on to strengthen the entry. Works very well. Been there for a couple of years without any issue.

Using four screws keeps it solidly together.
shadow_new_design_ramp_guard (resized).jpg

shadow_modified_ramp_guard-lh (resized).jpg

Are you talking about this one?
tom-rh-shield2 (resized).jpgtom-rh-shield (resized).jpg

I did mine in black chrome, turned out nicely. All depends on your preference, they all look beautiful.

blackchrome_shadow_gun (resized).jpg

After plating, my gun halves made the trigger bind because of plating build-up. I solved the problem by fitting a custom-made gasket between the gun halves, loosening the trigger just enough to prevent bind. Anyone else see that issue after plating?

gun_gasket (resized).JPG

These two components work together to move the diverter. They had a brass "upgrade" spur gear but the problem was, the brass would eat up the nylon rack gear quickly. So, the ideal combination is to use the nylon material on both parts. It's not really necessary to lube those parts since grease only attracts dirt and dust, causing early failure on the material.

The spur gear uses a set screw and a roll pin to hold it in place. If the pin is missing, the set screw could come loose and cause the gear to rotate on the shaft. Be sure the pin is in place on the gear.

The rack is held in place by three screws; don't over-tighten the screws as the shallow threads can easily be stripped out. If the rack is not secure, it'll bind.
103500 (resized).jpgbrass-gear (resized).jpgnew-gear (resized).jpg

They're available new.

Molded out of reinforced nylon. But if you 3D the part, it'll wear out quickly. You can't find filled material like this for printing.

Marco has the complete kit:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-20267-RP

rak-spur (resized).JPG

PM sent.

Glad it worked out for you. Looks remarkable.

Calling on experts. Sanctum issue.

I have an odd problem with the wall target (brick wall in the Sanctum). On startup, I occasionally get an error "Wall Target Bad, Check Switch/Coil". Checked the switch, diode and both coils. All work correctly. The manual test for both coils and switch all function normally.

What happens is, the wall doesn't drop during game play. It should drop once you enter the magnet and cross the opto, but isn't happening. Also, it seems the magnet is weak, won't hold the ball even though it does function on the manual test -somewhat. The magnet used to hold the ball solidly, wait a quarter of a second, then shoot it into the Sanctum. Doesn't want to do that now but instead just kind of wobbles the ball when it crosses the opto, and I'm thinking this is the underlying problem. The machine is about as clean as they get, with no real wear at the magnet of the Sanctum entrance.

Any ideas what tree I should be barking up?

Thanks for the link, it helped a lot. I now realize the switch should only activate by contacting the wall when down. The lift arm shouldn't activate the switch. I had it doing just that.

With the lift arm activating the switch, the CPU would think the wall is down when it's up, since the arm drops down by its own weight and comes in slight contact with the switch lever.

Works perfectly now.

I have an extra one in black flex plastic if you need this style.

cover (resized).jpg

Finally. FINALLY fixed an issue (or pair of issues) with my Sanctum wall target. It would go up, but not down. Only very occasionally.

The problem was that the target wall drop-down solenoid became intermittent. Sometimes, I could hear it energize, most times not. It about drove me bat-shit crazy trying to hunt down the intermittent. Checked all the wiring, removed the PC board and checked the driver components. All checked out OK. Replaced the driver transistors as a precaution, even though they checked out OK.

Then I rigged a lamp to the 4-way connector and ran the test. Lamp flashed properly, so the power did make it to the wiring harness connection. But somehow didn't make it to the solenoid. Started double-checking wires and terminals.

Got out the terminal removal tool - and finally found the source of the problem. It was a factory defect on the crimp of the terminal where the stripped wire had been inserted too far in the crimp applicator, causing the crimp to bite thru the insulation instead of the wire. This was done when the harness was originally built:
terminal-crimp (resized).jpg

Replaced the terminal and put it all back together.
Now, it clicks during the test but doesn't always cause the target to drop. WTF? Observing the operation during test mode, I noticed that the 2-piece armature had become loose and was occasionally separating.
armature-loose (resized).jpg

Whacked it with a center punch and staked it in place:
armature-staked (resized).jpg

Problem completely solved now, works properly. Why that armature came apart, I'll never know, but again, back in the Williams factory, it could have been yet another manufacturing defect finally showing up. Weird that two separate issues applied to that simple little solenoid.

Simple mod for a common failure:

When the ramp welds broke, it occurred to me that a little more support would strengthen the piece, and prevent the welds from breaking. Here is the original plastic:
shadow_original_ramp_guard (resized).jpg

A little brainstorming, I came up with this one:
shadow_modified_ramp_guard-lh (resized).jpg

Simple add-on, but now there are two mounting holes utilized on each side. Keeps the broken ramp together, and prevents the new ramp from breaking. It did the trick.
shadow_new_design_ramp_guard (resized).jpg

Be sure to add a resistor inline with one of the leads. I can't remember, but I believe the original lamp operates on 12 volts, so if you run full current to a standard LED, you'll burn it out in a hurry.

A series resistor, about 10K, will keep it alive.

The cause of this is common; a combination of improperly tightened set screw and soft material on the shaft. The set screw cup point will flatten in time, losing its ability to bite into the shaft. And the shaft will deform due to its hardness.

You can file the high points on the shaft with a small file, then replace the cup point set screw. Use a quality Allen wrench to tighten it, then re-check tightness occasionally. Harbor Freight hex key wrenches are not a good choice.

Alternatively, you can use a "patch-lock" set screw or red Loctite to retain it. This is one of the applications where using Loctite isn't a good idea though, since it can strip easily. Proper tightening and re-torquing is the best solution.

Black chrome is incredible:
blackchrome_shadow_gun (resized).jpg

I put a layer of playfield mylar on my machine. I don't think it will save the playfield, but looks good.

I am considering grafting a thin sheet of stainless steel in the sanctum, by milling out a pocket for it. I would bet that will never wear out once you install it. A "cliffy" so to speak for the sanctum.

Has anyone tried grafting a thin stainless steel sheet onto the playfield directly into the sanctum? Very thin, non-magnetic (sort of like the material used to make cliffys) and supported with epoxy, it could be the final word in playfield wear in that area. My machine has very little wear, so I'm not going to do this - yet - but up the road, it might be the answer. The magnet will still hold the ball since it would be thin, and it'd likely never wear out.

I had problems with the armature (No. 8 in the pic). It's a two-piece component and came apart causing it to malfunction. I had to take it apart, and stake the fixed metal center into the outer shaft to make it work again. The material they used was a certain type of steel with high iron content, that can't become magnetized, over a regular section of steel that can become magnetized.

Why not put protective strips on the playfield sides instead of the mirrors? You can get UHMW tape to insert on the wooden and metal pieces of the playfield and it'll never scratch the blades. I have used this stuff to protect moving parts on restored machines and it works great.

I created this left hand ramp guard to keep the ramp from breaking apart. Up until that time I had ramp damage because of how hard the ball would hit - only the two screws supported it with the original ramp guard.

Using all four screws makes the assembly much more solid and provides support for the curved ramp. Reducing the stress keeps the sections together.
shadow_modified_ramp_guard-lh (resized).jpg

Overall length(A): 2-3/8"
Major OD (C): 0.375"
Length of major OD (B): 1.5"

Thread size (fully threaded): 10-32 NF
Thread length: .875"

Knurl length: 3/4"

Black anodized. I'd use stainless steel 3/8" dia. to keep it simple.

Except the machine sold for $3800 when I bought mine new back in 1995.
shadow-receipt-1995 (resized).jpg

Here's what you do. Use these LEDs, pull them out of the plastic base and you'll have two wires that can take 12 volts. Bend the wires 90 degrees, slip them into the ring, and you're all set. Solder the leads onto the wires. The LED will face the red dome of the ring.

ebay.com link: 10pcs T5 White 5050 1 SMD Indicator Car Wedge Dashboard LED Light Lamp Bulbs

Doesn't get much simpler and made-to-order than these.

The factory plating was 2nd. rate at best. Years of handling it broke it down to a powdery finish. Once the outer layer goes, the base plating gets rough and just plain ugly.

I'm a fan of nickel plating (black chrome) for the gun halves - brings out the beauty in it and will last forever. Then, hard chrome plating for the trigger gives it a nice touch.

blackchrome_shadow_gun (resized).jpg

Used to be a forum member who specialized in this. He's gone now, but try > https://speedsportchrome.com/

I used this company for other plated items, and they do great work.

There is a near-chrome powder made by Prismatic Powders that is about as close to chrome plating as you can get. Only thing is, it scratches easily and is best when you apply a clearcoat powder over it. By that time, the two halves of the gun will give you fitment issues, especially in the trigger area.

And I'm a big fan of powdercoating.

Best, IMO, is to use nickleplate chrome (black chrome) for overall appearance. And bright chrome plate the trigger to give it some contrast.

blackchrome_shadow_gun (resized).jpg

Nickel plating or "black chrome" is stunning.

blackchrome_shadow_gun (resized).jpg

Be forewarned, if you use a bronze pinion gear, you will quickly destroy the nylon rack gear.

Metal gear in contact with a nylon rack gear is not a good thing.

Marco sells the rack and pinion pair. The nylon pinion gear has a brass hub in the center and is identical to OEM.

Yep, only replace it if it's defective. Common issue is a crack in the pinion gear or broken bronze sleeve. Once the gear goes out of alignment, it'll hurt the rack gear.

http://www.casperselectronics.com/cart/index.php?route=product/product&path=82&product_id=1058

Rack and pinion set.

The Shadow, still in my collection. How values have changed....
shadow-receipt-1995 (resized).jpg

I don't understand why someone (Cliffy comes to mind) doesn't produce a very thin laser cut sheet of stainless steel to protect that spot? I think something tastefully done would outlast any epoxy/acrylic repair done on that part of the game. And stainless steel isn't magnetic, so it wouldn't impede too much in holding the ball during magnet energizing. Plus, you can etch the surface with the laser and print anything you want on it.

Thoughts?

battlefield01 (resized).jpg

battlefield02 (resized).jpg

battlefield03 (resized).jpg

Poll: Who here would be in for a set of replacement lighting for the 3 rings?

LED stand-alone replacement for the 5 volt glass bulb

Plug and Play!

They will fit right into the tiny little socket that holds the incandescent bulb, and slip right in to the ring with NO modification.

Comments?

4 not 3, my bad.

Yes, obviously it will have current limiting. The so-called LED solution that some have using a T1 LED won't work since the light comes out of the wrong end to light the jewel. I'm thinking surface mount with polarity routing so it can be plugged in either way, and will still light normally. A very tiny little light source that resembles the bulb.

The goal will be to put light directly into the jewel so it will light normally. It will come down to whether warm white or red would be a color choice. Also, blue might be an option since the jewel is red, would make an interesting light color on the rings.

Not sure about the socket, I don't recall seeing replacement sockets in the wild. Strange old design with .050" spacing but worth looking into.

Shadow Owners, I need your help.

I'm looking for TWO of you who are willing to install a set of LED Ring lights on your playfield. I'd like a couple of opinions before it goes into production.

Background: The original socketed lamps have obvious deficiencies being incandescent bulbs. They burn out, they heat up, they're costly to replace and getting difficult to find. The solution has been dabbled with over the years, using various LED arrangements or retrofit designs, but nothing really stuck.

Flash forward to 2024. this new design will use a high brightness LED in its place, and will simply replace the existing lamp and wiring assemblies, strictly plug-and-play. They will eventually be sold as a set of four to replace the original bulb/socket/connector assemblies.

First two responders who PM me will get a set of four to test and critique. Please act fast if you're interested.

Thanks in advance.
led-vs-bulb (resized).jpg

Thanks, all. Got two of you on the hook....

We'll keep you all updated on the progress of this li'l gem.

John

Since the circuit board is flat, it will be a "interference" fit to stay in place. we struggled with various ways to do it, but this one made the list.

Soon will be available.

I have some pigtail repair ends available as well.

Just developed a specific ring light kit for the four rings, plug and play. See post here, number 10858. Stay tuned.....

Waiting on word from distributors, but I do have inventory ready to go. PM me, I'll get you going.