(Topic ID: 46571)

The Shadow Club

By marsgnu

11 years ago


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  • 10,927 posts
  • 754 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 days ago by allsportdvd
  • Topic is favorited by 279 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

4 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #73 Insert LED bulbs and colors Posted by MnHotRod (11 years ago)

Post #4322 Alternate Shadow Translite and Speaker Panel Posted by Aurich (6 years ago)

Post #4328 Shadow Manual Rubber Ring Chart link Posted by PinMonk (6 years ago)

Post #7873 The Shadow pistol grip info Posted by RobDutch (3 years ago)


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21
#6 11 years ago

How about a Shadow done in brass? All ramps, diverters, and wireforms plated by Mike Chestnut.

P1000100.jpgP1000100.jpg

#9 11 years ago

Here's the other side.

P1000099.jpgP1000099.jpg

#12 11 years ago

The gun is plated in black nickel with a chrome trigger but I don't have a picture. It is one of the nicest Shadows you will ever see and is completely dialed in and wicked fast.

#15 11 years ago

Does this mean I get to be President of The Shadow Club?

#18 11 years ago

Do not led The Shadow. Put superbright leds in the mode indicators only so you can see them better. At least with all the brass, the cool led light looks odd.

#26 11 years ago
Quoted from Pinballrus:

Fantastic. How does the brass hold up? I've got a bunch of mine out for powdercoat right now. Will post pics when it's done

The brass is holding up fine. It's been about 2 years now.

#41 11 years ago
Quoted from lukex:

Plenty of love for The Shadow here too. Similar to TheRave mine is clearcoated but screaming for plastics (thanks CPR in advance) and I am missing one ring...... eventually I will find one.

Here's one:

http://www.greatamericanpinball.com/product_detail.asp?productId=213&categoryId=51&returnPage=%2Fproducts%2Easp%3Fpage%3D2%26categoryId%3D51

#47 11 years ago
Quoted from marsgnu:

That post behind the right mongol should that be there? Mine doesn't have it.

Yes. It is also shown in the pics on the Internet Pinball Database.

#56 11 years ago
Quoted from vintage4life:

This is easily a top 5 machine in my opinion! Super fast and every mode is awesome! Been to final battle a few times and have yet to finish it. Always a shot away. I will never sell this pin. I was going to send my wires into Mike but after seeing those ramps and diverters all brassed out! That looks great.

I used the Pinbits stainless steel ramp flaps with brass rivets. You will need to sand some of the brass off the rods of the diverters or they will not fit. Use a fine metal sand paper to do this. Don't forget black nickel on the gun and to chrome the trigger.

#80 11 years ago
Quoted from tpellowe:

Recently sold my HUO Shadow idiotically. Worst move ever.

Tom, I can't believe you sold The Shadow after all the effort you put into finding one.

1 week later
#113 11 years ago

Here is the picture of the black nickel gun with the chrome trigger I promised several people I would post:

IMG_0186.jpgIMG_0186.jpg

#117 11 years ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

How well does the brass ramps hold up after 200 games or so? Doing well?

Mine was done two years ago and is holding up well.

#122 10 years ago
Quoted from GoldenOreos:

muh Shadow, so am i missing a light or something bc i see everyone else's back right area is more visible than mine. hmm will have to check that later

Its hard to tell for sure but you seem to be missing the lights for the battlefield and the sanctum area. If bulbs are not burned out check molex connectors at boards. reseat them and look for evidence of cold solder joints on the boards.

#142 10 years ago
Quoted from GoldenOreos:

is the brick wall where the 3 flashers r in the back right stock or upgraded? mine is just wood.

Upgrade

9 months later
#669 10 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Guys, does anyone make any sort of protection for the right saucer? The one I'm bringing home is a little scuffed up. I didn't see Cliffys for it..
Thoughts?

I had similar damage which is caused by the a ball hitting the wood back of the saucer. When I restored my Shadow I took a dremel with a sanding attachment to reshape and smooth the back of the saucer and then spot cleared it. But for damage inside the saucer you might try the Mantis saucer protector for TOTAN.

http://www.mantisamusements.com/totan.htm

1 year later
#2127 8 years ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

Ok question. My upper playfield is not working. The arm that goes back and forth does not work.
I replaced the motor
I replaced the motor board
opto's work
wiring looks ok
no blown fuses
Now what? ?

Check the two solenoids in solenoid test. Make sure you tested fuses with meter. Visual inspection is often inadequate. Check appropriate transistors. Double check wiring. The solder connections to the solenoids often break.

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