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The gun is plated in black nickel with a chrome trigger but I don't have a picture. It is one of the nicest Shadows you will ever see and is completely dialed in and wicked fast.
Do not led The Shadow. Put superbright leds in the mode indicators only so you can see them better. At least with all the brass, the cool led light looks odd.
Quoted from Pinballrus:Fantastic. How does the brass hold up? I've got a bunch of mine out for powdercoat right now. Will post pics when it's done
The brass is holding up fine. It's been about 2 years now.
Quoted from lukex:Plenty of love for The Shadow here too. Similar to TheRave mine is clearcoated but screaming for plastics (thanks CPR in advance) and I am missing one ring...... eventually I will find one.
Here's one:
Quoted from marsgnu:That post behind the right mongol should that be there? Mine doesn't have it.
Yes. It is also shown in the pics on the Internet Pinball Database.
Quoted from vintage4life:This is easily a top 5 machine in my opinion! Super fast and every mode is awesome! Been to final battle a few times and have yet to finish it. Always a shot away. I will never sell this pin. I was going to send my wires into Mike but after seeing those ramps and diverters all brassed out! That looks great.
I used the Pinbits stainless steel ramp flaps with brass rivets. You will need to sand some of the brass off the rods of the diverters or they will not fit. Use a fine metal sand paper to do this. Don't forget black nickel on the gun and to chrome the trigger.
Quoted from tpellowe:Recently sold my HUO Shadow idiotically. Worst move ever.
Tom, I can't believe you sold The Shadow after all the effort you put into finding one.
Quoted from CaptainNeo:How well does the brass ramps hold up after 200 games or so? Doing well?
Mine was done two years ago and is holding up well.
Quoted from GoldenOreos:muh Shadow, so am i missing a light or something bc i see everyone else's back right area is more visible than mine. hmm will have to check that later
Its hard to tell for sure but you seem to be missing the lights for the battlefield and the sanctum area. If bulbs are not burned out check molex connectors at boards. reseat them and look for evidence of cold solder joints on the boards.
Quoted from GoldenOreos:is the brick wall where the 3 flashers r in the back right stock or upgraded? mine is just wood.
Upgrade
Quoted from Blackbeard:Guys, does anyone make any sort of protection for the right saucer? The one I'm bringing home is a little scuffed up. I didn't see Cliffys for it..
Thoughts?
I had similar damage which is caused by the a ball hitting the wood back of the saucer. When I restored my Shadow I took a dremel with a sanding attachment to reshape and smooth the back of the saucer and then spot cleared it. But for damage inside the saucer you might try the Mantis saucer protector for TOTAN.
Quoted from Skyemont:Ok question. My upper playfield is not working. The arm that goes back and forth does not work.
I replaced the motor
I replaced the motor board
opto's work
wiring looks ok
no blown fuses
Now what? ?
Check the two solenoids in solenoid test. Make sure you tested fuses with meter. Visual inspection is often inadequate. Check appropriate transistors. Double check wiring. The solder connections to the solenoids often break.
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