(Topic ID: 46571)

The Shadow Club

By marsgnu

11 years ago


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  • 10,927 posts
  • 754 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 days ago by allsportdvd
  • Topic is favorited by 279 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

4 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #73 Insert LED bulbs and colors Posted by MnHotRod (11 years ago)

Post #4322 Alternate Shadow Translite and Speaker Panel Posted by Aurich (6 years ago)

Post #4328 Shadow Manual Rubber Ring Chart link Posted by PinMonk (6 years ago)

Post #7873 The Shadow pistol grip info Posted by RobDutch (3 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#6964 4 years ago

Just picked up a nice Shadow and joined the club! Anyone know where I can find the alternate translite for sale??

I'm about to tear everything off the playfield and clean it up...playfield is actually in very good shape but dirty. Fixed some burnt GI connectors and a couple broken coil wires and now playing great... although probably needs the new diverter linkage piece. Been in the same home for the last 20 years!

#6966 4 years ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Welcome to the club. As always, we want photos. As for the translite, write the maker (Aurich). Seems like he’ll do another run if he gets enough interest. I’ve lost count on how many runs he has done.

Thank you! Will post some up soon! Started tearing it down and am about to start cleaning. Found a couple broken parts etc I'll need to order. Question for the group - I had a lot of play on the left diverter and figured I need a new crank arm piece from PB life...but what I noticed is the tip of the diverter is really chewed up from the screws. I dont think a new crank arm assembly is the fix, is it? I'm curious how others handled a chewed up diverter tip that causes excessive play...? Thx!

#6969 4 years ago

My left diverter tip is chewed up from the set screws and doesnt operate properly - has play and only goes half way. I'm not sure if the play is caused by the chewed up tip or the crank arm bracket/set screw is to blame.

Did some searching and cant find where someone has confirmed this. Any thoughts? If I buy the crank arm bracket will the new beefy set screws lock onto the chewed up tip? Thanks!

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#6970 4 years ago
Quoted from Daditude:

I've got one. Pm me for info.

PM sent!

#6971 4 years ago

Anyone have a spare one of these hex posts they want to sell??? screw broke off inside it....

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#6974 4 years ago
Quoted from Digduglus:

Before and after. Came in nice, but stock and needing a cleaning. 1 week of quarantine later, full LEDs, purple star posts, left ramp switch extension, new black flipper bats, new titan rubbers, color dmd, mirror blades, new sub woofer, probably more. Still need to do target decals and plastic protectors as well as find an aurich translite speaker combo and a decent back panel decal. Maybe upgrade speakers[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks good! I'm working on one now too. What did you use to clean up the wireform ramps and did you notice any of the thin brass plating peeling off?

#6975 4 years ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

The cause of this is common; a combination of improperly tightened set screw and soft material on the shaft. The set screw cup point will flatten in time, losing its ability to bite into the shaft. And the shaft will deform due to its hardness.
You can file the high points on the shaft with a small file, then replace the cup point set screw. Use a quality Allen wrench to tighten it, then re-check tightness occasionally. Harbor Freight hex key wrenches are not a good choice.
Alternatively, you can use a "patch-lock" set screw or red Loctite to retain it. This is one of the applications where using Loctite isn't a good idea though, since it can strip easily. Proper tightening and re-torquing is the best solution.

Thanks for this feedback. I didnt even think to remove the set screws and confirm if cup or pointed - will do that and also file to create a smooth surface. Thanks for your advise!

#6978 4 years ago
Quoted from Flystoyer:

What size are the treads--I may have one.

That would be awesome - thank you. It's a 3/8" hex post. #8 male threads on the bottom, #6 hole on the top. That what you have????!!!

#6981 4 years ago

Got a Shadow few days ago that was very dirty but had been in finished basement/home use since 2000. Guy never cleaned it I dont believe. Tore down the playfield and cleaned it up with Simple Green, then magic eraser then Novus 2. In really good shape! What do you think...should I remove the couple mylar pieces and put down new ones? I'm worried about messing with the Sanctum area since the wear isn't bad there but dont want to make it worse by trying to pull it up. I'm going to spend some more time cleaning up kick out holes and shooter lane then spot clear it. Plan to add some LEDs, new plastics/purple rubbers/clear star posts, new ramps, maybe powdercoat wireform ramps, backboard/target decals, redo flippers and maybe couple other mechanisms as needed. Game plays 100% after I fixed burnt GI connectors and a couple broken coil wires. Am I missing anything?? Cant wait to get this up and running...and play it! Fun game.

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#6983 4 years ago
Quoted from Elicash:

I wouldn't mess around clearcoating a game that looks that nice, especially for the age of the game... That playfield looks near perfect. Unless you got Kruzman or HEP level skills, why would you clearcoat it?

Me? It is near perfect...just touch up the clear around the holes with nail polish is all I would do. That's what I meant. But should I mess with peeling up old mylar strip at sanctum?

#6989 4 years ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

My playfield was super nice so I cleared it. I clear all my keepers though. Get that nasty mylar off at least. Freeze spray. It's a newer game, you'll be fine.

Thx...that's what I'll do for the drop target mylar pieces and the other larger piece on the lane under the mini playfield. But will probably leave the sanctum mylar alone for fear of peeling up that little bit of loose paint that is underneath.

#7022 4 years ago

While cleaning my playfield...removed the old, discolored piece of mylar off my sanctum area earlier which I was worried about making it worse. No issues at all. Wear is really not bad at all...have a circle piece of mylar I'll put down to protect. Removed and cleaned the kicker and drop target mechs earlier on the mini-playfield. Is grease recommended for the drop targets and/or on the kicker left/right "rails"?

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#7024 4 years ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Looks good. No grease or oil of any kind on either of those assemblies. Wax all the surfaces that make contact and everything should work great.

Wax!! Brilliant...thank you

#7028 4 years ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

Told you that you'd be okay removing that. I agree, get the circle decal.

Yep, you were right! I'm thinking I'll get the circle decal and put it over the mylar circle.

#7029 4 years ago
Quoted from yellowghost:

Do not put grease on those shafts. It will ruin those bronze bushings which apperently are self-lubricating.

Got it, thanks!

#7034 4 years ago

Freshly waxed...

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#7044 4 years ago

Finally finished cleaning up The Shadow I bought recently...playfield was in great shape and the cabinet pretty good too. Re-import from Germany that had been HUO in 1 home since 2000. Was very dirty when I got it but cleaned up very well.

Added Comet LEDs (Sunlight in GI/Backbox and color matched inserts + purple modes, rebuilt flippers, serviced the mini playfield kicker and drop target mechanisms, side mirror blades, purple flashers/covers, new CPR plastics, new Mantis ramps, purple Titan rubbers...I used coil stop screws to fix the wonky phurba dagger mechanisms...worked well....very tight....I cant wait to play it this weekend...!

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#7045 4 years ago

Still looking for an Aurich translite if someone has one for sale??

#7047 4 years ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Have you reached out to aurich to see if/when he is going to do another batch? Might be the easiest way to pick one up

Yes I have. But have not heard back and saw a post recently indicating he was buried in other work etc....so was hoping to find someone hoarding one!

#7051 4 years ago
Quoted from PappyBoyington:

I was thinking about getting my habitrails re-plated, but I figured I would try Brasso first. I have used it on a Gottlieb Stargate many years ago and it stripped off all the gold and turned it silver. But this is a Bally and I thought I would see if the gold would hold up.
Turns out it did and it took off all the tarnished looking spots. I'm very happy with how it turned out. Don't slather it on, just put some on a micro fiber tool and rub lightly. You will see immediate results. Just be careful and try it on a small area first. Maybe all Shadows are not the same. But mine worked out great. No need to get them plated now.
You can see in this picture where I have started on the left side.
[quoted image]
This is completed. Looks fantastic!
[quoted image]
Sorry, I don't have better pictures but I didn't plan on sharing this.

WOW....that looks really good. I tried some on mine recently and had a hard time telling if it was shiny brass or shiny silver colored as if I was removing the brass plating with the brasso. So I stopped and just cleaned with Simple Green. I may need to try again after seeing these....looks really good.

#7060 4 years ago
Quoted from HooperTriplett:

Looking for a little help...
First machine and bought just late last week. After having some DMD issues, I'm now getting a Check Fuse F115 and F116, J112 and Opto 12v Supply. Replaced the fuses for F115 and F116. J112 snug and nothing loose. Replaced the batteries - no corrosion. What am I missing? Where should I be looking?
Much thanks in advance![quoted image]

I had this message once on a different WPC machine (World Cup Soccer) but the fuse was actually blowing after a minute or two of the motor starting and turning the ball. It was caused by a motor under the playfield being gummed up.

The Shadow has the same motor which controls the mini playfield/battlefield kicker moving side to side. May want to visually inspect to see if it looks dirty and take notice of its action. If the fuse glows and/or blows after the motor kicks on during mini playfield/battlefield play then it could be your issue.

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