Enjoying my recently acquired shadow ,in really nice shape,busy adding a little lighting and changing out the rubber color scheme to my liking

Slowly wading through the 160 pages...

But

Is there a factory setting for the outlane rubbers? Currently have set at about 1/3 from the top.

Both lower flipper swere real wobbly , bushings were broken ,replaced and so much better

Learning the intricacies of the upper flipper,if flipper button is held halfway down lower flipper is in cradle,if full press both flippers activate ,is this normal operation ?

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Thanks,for the repliesI will work on learning to use the staging

Planning to try the "luppin rules"

Looking at pictures I see the outlane posts all over the place, was there a " factory " position?

replaced one of my bulbs with a 3 mm white led , the socket was already missing so just soldered it directly to the existing wiring but have an idea on how to make a socket connector I will work on.

I find the led is a lot dimmer mostly due to the encapsulated leds being a directional light source and viewing angle is critical , they are brightest when viewed head on and much less bright from a side view. the 3mm led is a perfect fit in the preexisting hole but if I go the led route I would probably take the red cover off and mount a 1smd facing upwards and then reattach the cover.

got to Final Battle after changing to luppin rules , had 4 shots left after ball saver expired , one was on the battlefield, seems challenging to go back to the battlefield while keeping the other ball alive on the playfield , I guess putting it in a saucer buys some time?

I found enabling the center target hit ball saver with luppin made a huge difference in getting to final battle. went back to ball saver off as the on setting takes away the risk reward factor of the opening shots for the battlefield and the sanctum . it kills me to sdtm one after one those shots but I think that was the intent.

I have not looked at the rings that closely and I just slid the old tiny bulb out and slid the 3mm led into the hole, the base of the bulb prevents the whole bulb from sitting inside the ring similar to how the stock bulb sits

In your pic it looks like you took the cover off to glue the led in place ?

In my experience the encapsulated leds will always look dim when viewed from the side,if you can reorient that one by 90 degrees it will look brighter

I have not taken a ring off the wire form but I can see it is just an open cavity , good to know! , I would do something like this using a single comet smd or similar .
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/123#post-5119435

exactly as above , I imagine you might have a wedge smd bulb or 2 lying around? if you want crazy bright you can use a 5v comet 2smd or 4 smd bulb, 6 smd pad or 8 smd"flasher"

Got tired waiting for an order of the incandescent bulbs to come in so went with a smd as you have done, used a a comet male connector ( I think these are called JT connectors ) as a socket with a little shrink tube ,as luck would have it found one of the tiny bulbs in the bottom of the cab,the socket works with it too

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Always thought the optos on the battlefield look a little unfinished as does the back of the kicker so I made little covers

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As well got tired of the ball getting stuck on the habiitrail as it rolls off the battlefield so made a slightly larger peice that fixes that problem,it looks black but it is translucent dark purple

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Btw nothing beats shiny brass on the shadow

thanks, really simple to make I just used some black plastic I had lying around, nice to work with as you can cut it with a pair of scissors . if someone had metalworking skills or tools these would look nice in a powder coated sheetmetal …

here are the dimensions if you want to make your own , cut and make 2 90 degree bends and it is done , they just press fit into edge of the battlefield shroud and have a touch of two sided tape at the top of the opto bracket

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I like it! What is a switch cover?

Put in a color dmd screen ,adds so much
Added some lighting to the ramps , the sanctum and the trough and some spotlights without reflectors , to me the reflectors are too obtrusive and modern looking for the art deco theme.

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Thanks I got the idea from someone maybe 100 pages back in this thread

It does add some nice bling to the ramps and makes a good visual to aim for although it has not helped my scores!

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Both the sanctum wall and the battlefield drop target are kind of dark for such key shots so I brightened them ,just one smd for the sanctum but I switched out the battlefield drop for something a little brighter,looks the target is somewhat obscured by the habitrail but with the juice much more visible up or down

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Thanks It looks like over the years the brackets did get bent

Led strips under the back of the diverter

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1)anyone know the set screw size and thread and roll pin size for the gear on the battlefield kicker?( pretty sure roll pin is 1/16 x 3/8)

2) what is the name of the black rubber pieces ( female threads) at the ends of the one shaft for the kicker ?

thanks grumpy at first read I thought you might be making a joke but I see you are correct, I can not find them at marco or pinball life but probably any hardware store would have .

SET SCREW SIZE ?? anyone?

standard 4 inch /10 smd from comet, , routed to underside of playfield to gi bulb

if you do this I would recommend gluing the strips with plumbers goop or similar , the led strip adhesive should not be trusted, particularly in a spot where
it is not easy to access

brilliant manny! who would have that to look at the parts list! ordered what I needed from marco although I did not order the 20-10121 as they are $5.85 each and I think I can get a well nut at the hardware store for much less

thanks for all the help guys!

My drop targets on the battlefield would stick sometimes and the bracket for the motor had broken(but still worked fine) so I took the battlefield off

I thought there was some shrunken shriveled up plastic wrapped around the drop target posts but it was just a thick layer of aged lithium grease!,cleaned up well,drop target working good now

Installed the mantis upgrade bracket, really heavy duty as compared to the original but the radiused lip opposite the rack mount interferes with the gear sliding back and forth so had to be filled down,a pain! I have the brass gear"upgrade" but assume it would have the same issue with the nylon gear

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Damn cell phone double post

Triple post]

The folded edge that I needed to file is the horizontal edge just below where your red arrow is,if you look at the original the slot where the gear travels is approx 1/8 wider.

The mantis piece was purchased by the prev owner ,,I will let mantis know

I did not realize this is a new product but it is a quality part and looks to be way stronger and more durable than the original. on my machine with the brass gear the set screw protrudes maybe 1/32 from the shaft but even if this was flush it does not seem it would have enough clearance. , as far as I can tell from how the mechanism operates there is no functional benefit of having a super tight clearance there so the design may need a slight tweak

consumer pricing alert!

wanted a backup gear and rack for the battlefield, marco sells a kit( rack, gear, set screw, roll pin and allen wrench and the 3 screws to attach the rack) $89

buying essential items separate (rack $18, gear $8, set screw $.25 , roll pin $.25, ) $ 26.50

not at home but the standoffs and angle at the back board looks about right , what issue are you having that makes you think it sits too high?

Does the kicker recenter after the ball falls off the playfield?

if it resets to more or less the center is probably ok, I was thinking if the machine was not sensing the ball being off the playfield might have something to do with your drop target issue.

I would assume the system must have some calibration of how many revolutions it takes to travel between triggering the sensors and then travels to half that

simple fixes are good!

for fun checked the angle of the mini playfield : 4.6 degrees

main playfield: 6.8 degrees

looks good and thanks, happy to share ,

I got the idea from " holmastarunner" back in post #1399

does the ball hit the reflector in that placement ?

to remove the mini playfield disconnect all the connectors underneath the main playfield , unscrew the hinge screws from the backboard , take off the brass knurled screw and lift the whole mini playfield

where the led strip is mounted on the shroud is lower than the miniplay field, , if you use the kind of standard led strip that has the leds encased in silicone I would not think a ball hit here or there would causes any damage.

to better light the playfield I put a black plastic L channel with the led strip inside that sits about 1/2 inch above the existing shroud edge. I have never had the ball bounce back to the mini playfield !

look like it would work

6 years is not too bad ? .

i would super glue the crack and then wrap a piece of clear gorilla tape up both sides and then cut out the notch where the washer slides

i had another thought that if the target is binding when it gets pushed up it would put more force on the bottom of the target leading to the breakage you see

the force on the plate is in the midline of the plate and should push straight up when in operation, if you grab it off center it will cant as you demonstrate but that should not happen during operation if the plate is securely fastened by the nut . i would check the hole in the plate perhaps it has enlarged over time allowing the rotation .

i would also check the arrangement of the washers on the attachment of drop targets , if you have extra washers beneath the attachment the targets will sit a little farther out giving less surface for the plate to push up on

agreed!!

I noticed this as well the last time I took the diverter out,I would guess when they designed it the main goal was to be functional and reliable which it is,the aesthetics of the wobble was probably not thought to be that important. Ultimately it will always be a little wobbly as the coil plunger link has wobble too.

I wonder if putting something like a delrin or similar bushing with a semi tight tolerance to the diverter shaft in the hole in the ramp or hole in the play field to stabilize the diverter might help

looking at the above picture of the underside , it looks like a tight fit for a standard flipper bushing to fit through the playfield but it could work by cutting off the bushing shaft part and drilling the resultant "disc" to the correct od and mount on the under surface of the playfield . just having 2 points of lateral support on the diverter shaft would help a lot.

thinking out loud, the problem with mounting to the ramp is that the ramp is angled so getting the drilled hole at the right angle for the diverter shaft might be tricky

the simplest wobble fix is the best.

Anyone have an extra jonesb backbox decal?

thanks , put me on the list , an y time frame for the reprinting?

[email protected]
www.pinballplating.com

looks really good , the backboard decal from jonesb would be a perfect color scheme complement to the powder coating

ha! trick response from me as he is currently out of stock but let him know you are interested in getting one

grumpy had a mod for this

Switched out my backboard decal and modified the lighting,made a little decal extending the cityscape to the blue plastic plate below the battlefield,might try an art deco battlefield theme as well

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if you look back maybe three pages you can see it in some of my prior posts . it was the one with a cityscape with purple and blue colors and a moon, the buildings were more like modern buildings though .

mine had the usual corner break when i bought it but worked fine .

as far as i can tell from the original design the rolled edge of the bracket allows the shaft of the the gear to rotate along it and keeps the gear really tight to the teeth of the rack , so with a broken bracket without the shaft contacting the rolled edge it is just the weight of the whole mechanism that keeps the gear from chattering along the rack, it seems like the weight is just enough.

the original design is a damn tight fit( particularly if the set screw or roll pin are not flush) and it seems like it can be too much friction for the motor to turn the gear , i fixed my old bracket with jb weld and using that one or the mantis bracket (with some filing of the rolled edge to even get the gear to fit in the bracket ) my motor would not turn the gear or it would run out of steam after a pass or two back and forth. maybe the motor loses power as it ages as it or the power board does not supply enough voltage to drive the tight setup? would checking the voltages at the motor or power board confirm this theory?

at any rate mine is working really smooth with the mantis bracket filed to allow a " loose" setup.

on a related note anyone have a picture of the inside of the gearbox?

working on a mod for the backbox area,

"day"
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would love to have the lighting changes tied in to the modes or the multiballs as it seems like some of the modes are based on scenes that occur in the night or day but triggering off the switch matrix is not easy or perhaps even possible.

i have it wired with a timing circuit ,looking at the audits average ball time is 70 seconds ( seems low for a player of my skills right ? ) so with the timing change at 60 seconds with a good ball you go through at least one whole day

"Night"
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good job on the resto! would love to see a closeup of your approach to the sanctum repair, the left ramp looks interesting, look like a hammered bronze finish?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/160#post-6040435

i did a lot of internet searching for the original sockets with no luck, this is what i ended up doing . works well

aurich translite for sale if anyone is looking for one ( i am not the seller)

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aurich-shadow-translite#post-6194090

Came up with a mod to brighten the back of the battlefield, a little bling and adds some diffuse lighting, tried to come up with art deco graphics and lighting to complement the machine ,I think I like the yellow fan design the best,

what do you guys think?

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Thanks for the compliments guys. i was not planning to sell these but i have had a lot of interest in this and it does really add to our beautiful shadows so i will make a few more with the materials i have left over . pm me if you want one

i think you could power it with the grumpy mod and have it turn off and on with the battlefield activation if you are powering a 5 v bulb .

A great idea ,well executed!
Scott comes up with some cool stuff,with his electronic skills I would have made the 4 knobs micro leds with each led tied into one of the saucer insert lights.

With where it is positioned Is the view of the ball in the saucer obscured from the players view?

during the shut down i pplayed around wtih some warmer lighting for the battlefield backplate but still like the fan in yellow the best. Like jones jb i always thought the saucer area needed a little something so came up with this , i thought the turquoise one would be a winner to tie into the design and color of the mode inserts but i think it needs a little work

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lots of pms about the mods made a thread over in the mod section so i don't clog up the club thread .

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-battlefield-and-mode-scoop-mods-#post-6226623

played a few games last night trying only to get to vengance and complete it, best was 1 3/4 , a lot of fun!

looking good ! you have a green light behind the battlefield?

i have thought of trying thinner post sleeves but the shot is tight but makeable and satisfying to hit especially on a clean shot. most of mine rattle around before making it to the saucer...

HOW MANY TIMES have i had 3/4 of the scarves lit with only a mode or two left to start final battle and FAILED ???? i won't even mention the times everything is 4/4 lit and i failed to get a saucer shot to start final battle

made a variation of turning the lights on the mini playfield when a ball enters, instead the backboard image goes from day to night , triggered by the flasher on the mini, it is not perfect as that flasher goes on at other moments too but most of the time the backboard effect is as intended.

Aurich is planning another run , i would pm him

The optos for the battlefield kicker stopped working( kicker autofiring, no response with switch edge test) voltage on transmitter .9 v, on receiver say 11.8v with no change with beam blocked, replaced both now kicker works fine but i checked voltages again transmitter 1.2v receiver 12v goes down to 10v when beam blocked. per manual receiver should go to 0v when blocked.

glad it is working but if there something with the opto board i should check or replace?

thanks for the pics, your diverter arm shaft looks different than mine , am i missing the outer black shaft piece or is this a modification?

wondering if that is the correct spring? i have a similar one but looking at the diagram in the manual it looks like it should be a smaller diameter?

I don't think the Khan shot is supposed to be a gimme,since it starts all the modes and the final battle an automatic Khan makes the saucer kind of redundant other than for the extra ball .

Keep the 2 hardest shots as designed and just play better! Haha

If you have the upper flipper angled upwards does it interfere with the right orbit shot?

By all means everyone should set up there games so it is fun for them,that's what the adjustments are for right?

I don't know if chuckwurt is kidding on how he has the shadow settings but I would maybe ease back on the other parts that make it more difficult and keep the khan a shot ,it's great when you hit it! THUNK!!

no rubbers where the double rings on the outlanes are ? man that must be crazy tough and a special kind of " fun" , you sir are badass

i would like to see the other side, i say fixable by someone who knows what they are doing

I don't know off the top of my head but pinwiki has a pretty good section on wpc 95 trouble shooting with a section on the optos,worth checking out if you have not seen it

I have I think tilt art blades, they have a few scuffs for sure, the wire forms have some protruding areas that make for a tight fit

very nice , i thought they were brand new ramps !

I had a similar issue ,look at my post I think 8001 in this thread,ended up filing that edge to get some clearance for the gear shaft

as far as i know the game does not know what position the diverters are in , in the solenoid test if i says "diverter left" that means it is activating the left solenoid not pushing the diverter left , which way it points entirely depends on what direction you have it pointing when you tighten the set screw.

as long as they work when you push the button you are good to go.

Of course you are right manny.
Totally blanked on the skill shot selection,!I will go for the skill shot if I am in the mood for vengance but usually ignore it as too risky,I have not seen the extra ball in the selection for many months

was thinking about this on the drive to work, i don't recall there being a sensor or switch to detect the position of the diverter so it must just use the change in state of the left blue button to decide the diverter is in the left or right position ?

i will double check tonight but as far as i remember my machine does not automatically change the diverter to either the flashing or the lit side

Incorrect info,manny has it right as per below

I played around with it just a little for the initial post but did not notice it reverting but thanks for the correction . I did notice that you are rewarded the skill shot for whichever side ramp switch gets activated regardless of dmd side so functionally the dmd is just providing a visual clue of which way the diverter is pointing.

It would have been an interesting option to have an "auto diverter" setting that would flip to the unmade side say during final battle or vengance or as a difficulty setting such as requiring 2 ramp switch hits per side before the diverter switches sides

Good job on getting it fixed and thanks for updating

check with brewninja he did make these for sale but now the link shows not available but maybe he can make you one

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1180-slap-save-creations/05008-the-shadow-upper-playfield-thumbscrew-02-5142

This is new info! the last time we discussed this here you had yours set up this way to compensate for how difficult you had some of the other set up factors , cool you talked to the designer .

if this is the intended setup maybe the reputation of shadow being one of the hardest games of that era is unfounded, i estimate that with typical setups otherwise making starting modes a gimme khan shot , average skill players will get to final battle 40- 50% of the time.

if you can also ask him if it was his intent to have modes start at khan as well or was that a later code "add on" since there is no playfield insert for mode start at khan

i could use one of those if anyone has an extra

if i can get a good piece i will laser a plastic protector for them and all their friends

drooled after that one when it was in the marketplace , welcome to the club!

op not a great picture !

similar line of thinking that something is putting too much force on the target causing the crack, check that it glides smoothly up and down , waxing the metal surface and the target itself might help, loosen the screws a tich on the guide plate. check the white nylon guide at the top for burrs or binding and i would verify you have the correct pulldown spring, the one in your picture looks more robust than the stock spring . check for the correct coil sleeve and stop and that the height adjustment is correct

Would love to see a picture!

What do you mean by intermittent? The ball just sits in the shooter lane or it gets fired up the wire form and does not make it to the top,?

I thought the Comp play was left orbit to inner loop,I think there was a Bowen kerns(is that the right name?) video. There is some scoring bug that leads to big points by repeating loops

hard to tell from the pic but they look good but dark , maybe paint gold or brass color if they are black