Grand Forks, ND
Is there a transparent Sanctum decal? My grey paint looks really good, but the decal I have isnt even close.
(Topic ID: 46571)
Linked Games
Shadow, The
Bally, 1994
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Quoted from jonesjb:I think he’s after a Sanctum water slide.
Yes, after doing some quick research, that is what I'm looking for. Seems like the best way to do it is print yourself but if anyone knows someone that sells these, let me know!
Quoted from fosaisu:Throw some Mylar down and you’re good. Just wax the playfield first, so that the mylar will be more easy to remove if you ever need to (assuming the wax won’t interact badly with your paint).
This is an option too, but I need the lettering "To the Sanctum". My restore of that area, covered the original lettering
4 months later
1 week later
Quoted from mbaumle:Honestly, save yourself the trouble and get some JB Weld, a thing of Apple Barrel branded “Country Grey” paint (.99 cents at AC Moore), and a small cutout of Mylar.
-Clean the surrounding area with naphtha/Novus 2, use painters tape to tape off the surrounding area, mix up the JB Weld and fill in the divot (use a putty knife to smooth it out).
-Let the epoxy cure for 24 hours. Then block sand the JB weld down Flush with the rest of the Playfield. Wipe down with naphtha.
-retape everything (since sanding will take the tape off), and using a foam brush, brush on a good hearty coat of the country grey paint. Let dry.
-remove paint. Slap on a piece of Mylar, and I guarantee it’ll be a perfect paint match.
It might sound like a lot of work, but it’s really not. And it’ll permanently fix the problem, and look 10000x better than the stupid green dot or horrendously matches grey sanctum decal. If I remember, I’ll post some before and after pictures of my game. It was *really* bad.
This is the repair process I took with mine, and it looks great (just make sure you really sand down the JB Weld, can't be any ridge at all). I still like the look of the green dot though, and would like to put one on to be extra careful.
Quoted from jim5six:Yeah, the magnet de-energizes for a split second causing the ball to fall down a bit; then the magnet energizes for a split second to pull the ball back up the table causing the "throw" back to the lock.
-Jim
Yeah, I knew the magnet would have to pull the ball back, but my magnet is hooked up to a coil. When I unplug that coil, the magnet stopping action still works, but the throw back doesn't.
So what would typically cause a weak throw back action? I just replaced my magnet. Appreciate the assistance!
Quoted from tiesmasc:That looks very wrong. Here's a pic of mine.
Kinda figured the coil was some sort of hack. I just replaced the coil, and it throws it back perfect now.
Not sure why I have an extra coil in the machine though...
Quoted from GRUMPY:No the LM version! Low magnetism.
Magnet has been successfully rewired and the "throw back" is strong now. Thanks to all the helped identify this issue. Coil certainly seemed strange, but assumed it was correct until helpful comments in this thread.
2 months later
Quoted from Guinnesstime:Anyone have a spare "Sanctum Dot" or similar to spare? I PM'd original poster but no luck so far. Mine has a small dot that would easily be covered up by this.
I have a couple spares, too. The 3M mylar type ones.
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