So is there anyone who can reliably re-plate or "re-brass" the wireforms at a reasonable price? Some of the prices I've seen are only a few bucks less than buying the whole wireform new...there must be someone more reasonable?

Was the original clear coated? I'm guessing no from the fact that they deteriorated over the years, but this is just HUO...will the plating just break off w/o clear?

What kind of powder coat looks like the original brass though?

I had seen this before. Way overpriced. The price is almost the same as what the wireforms cost new.

So...I tried a test clean with Nevr-Dull on the brass wire forms......NOPE. It easily removes whatever brass coloring/plating was there, leaving you with a slightly-brass tinted chrome wire form. Doesn't look like you can really even clean these things up without stripping them....

Anyone found a reasonably priced way to get the old brass wire forms looking respectable?

Hey guys - doing a complete restore (minus the cabinet) and I grabbed the plastics set from CPR. Great quality, but it came with two large plastics - one with The Shadow logo and one with The Shadow character. These aren't part of the normal game but they have slots as if they are supposed to go somewhere....any ideas?

Hey guys - almost finished with my restore....some weird stuff I'm seeing and wondering if anyone has solutions -

1) See photo.....is this how the Battlefield kicker should look? It's metal on metal - no sleeve of any kind. When you move it with your hand, it makes quite the squeak sound. I imagine it'll probably be inaudible during gameplay but it just seems bizarre that it left the factory like this...is something missing here?

2) I've cleaned my Battlefield drop targets to the nth degree, and the bracket....I can see no place that would create drag. Despite this, the targets go down much slower than your typical lightning-fast drop target. Is this normal? Are yours fast to drop or is this just the design?

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Just finished my restore. What do you think?

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Glad you asked. DO NOT DO IT. It was a nightmare.

I've restored 5 games - all Williams/Bally. This game has the least "stuff" and yet took 4x longer than any other game I've done. Why? Because I used a CPR playfield. And the dimples are ALL wrong. OK let me be fair, 10% of the dimples were in the right place. The rest are either missing completely are off by as much as half an inch.

The through-holes on the top side were pretty good, I cannot recall any misalignments. But the clear coat that CPR uses is garbage. Put it this way, I've played 10 games on it so far since restore - using pristine Ball Baron Ninja balls - and yet most of the playfield is already scratched up and looks well-played.

Contrast this with the restores I've done...for example my TAF has 1,200 plays since restore and the playfield has far fewer scratches than the CPR Shadow with 10 plays on it. I use PPG auto clear coat. Whatever CPR uses ain't it.

Sorry to put a damper on your possible project, but if I can save someone the hassle, I want to do that. I don't know if there are NOS or other brand pfs out there for The Shadow, but I wouldn't use a CPR pf again if it was free.

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The only "dial in" issues I had, were mostly Battlefield related. The hammer swiveled side to side when in motion (common issue). This is fixed by using pliers to carefully close the bracket/fork it sits in so that there is only enough room for it to settle on (in the center groove but not pushing through). Also had to fix the slow-dropping targets using a tip I got on here - car wax. Sped those babies right up. Oh, and one of the rails the hammer rides on - the one with the black bumpers on each end - one side was broken off, causing the hammer to sometimes come off track and not move. I don't know if you can buy this part (it's a tiny piece that screws into the rail) but I used a couple of lock-nuts and a screw to accomplish the goal....until I can find that piece.

This seems to be the closest Home Depot has - will this work?
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-8-32-x-15-32-in-Brass-Expansion-Nut-814338/204276115

Marco is 8x pricier and if I can run down the street and grab one, A+.

I don't think this is a new one. I mean, the date stamped on it, Jan 2010 can't be right but I think they made these a while ago. The wood quality is great in that there are no top-side dimples of any kind but I don't get bent out of shape about those. Not sure I'd call the clear coat "damage" (no chipping). It's just not very scratch resistant compared to other clear coats.

Thanks. I placed a nice thicker piece of circular mylar over this area and the magnet still works perfectly.

Have had my Shadow for a few weeks now, fully restored it and in doing so discovered all the weird quirks (and fixes for them). Hope this helps some people.......

BATTLEFIELD KICKER LEANING SIDE-TO-SIDE
Grab a pair of pliers. See the fork that the kicker arm sits in between? Squeeze the two sides together so that the kicker arm barely fits in it. In fact, even if you close it a tad too much and it sits on it but doesn't go through all the way, you're fine. The kicking action will wedge it back into place in a few games. But it won't lean - straight as an arrow. Please guys, fix yours....everyone that posts pics of their game seems to have this issue. 5 minute fix.

LEFT RAMP DOESN'T REGISTER ON RIGHT SIDE
There are a couple of solutions for this. One is the switch extender that Lermods sells. I bought this. Not quite it. No offense to those guys but it's clearly visible - the plastic isn't even clear, and moves the switch much further away than needed. I guess there's also some switch extender available, but I've never seen it. My solution was simple - get a shooter lane switch, which are usually pretty lengthy, and stretch it out and bend it up so it covers both fast shots and regular shots. I've attached a couple of pics. It's virtually invisible and registers 95% of the time.

BALLS NOT REGISTERING IN THE SANCTUM WHEN THROWN IN BY MAGNET
Over time, the balls get magnetized. If your magnet throw is weak, the ball won't fly around the bend fast enough and will hang up on the first of the three switches in the sanctum area. Magnetism exacerbates this issue. Change the balls, first. Next, carefully adjust the switches so they are not protruding as much through the playfield, but still register when you move your finger over it. With less force required, the ball should go through fine, even with reduced throw from the magnet.

SLOW/STICKY BATTLEFIELD DROP TARGETS
Take out the target bracket and remove the targets. Throw them in an ultrasonic if you got one. The bracket itself can also go in there. Alternatively, you can clean as much grease off as possible and then throw it into a vibratory tumbler overnight. But as long as you can clean it good with some 90% isopropyl or your weapon of choice, you're good. Now add car wax (paste recommended vs. liquid) to the targets where they meet the bracket, and the bracket itself. Boom, targets that go down fast AF.

SANCTUM BRICK TARGET GETTING STUCK DOWN
If the set screw that determines how high the drop target rests is too low, it will jam the kicker arm and won't go up. Then the game marks it bad. To fix this, first set the screw so the target is as high as possible when down, without going over the lip of the wood behind it. Now, use needle nose pliers to squash the thin metal protector at the bottom of the brick drop target (yours may be missing, it's common) so it's not pointy and more flat. Lastly, if you have it put a drop of LPS 1 on that metal kicker arm where it meets the drop target. Shouldn't ever happen again.
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Anyone looking for a backglass version of the factory translite (the Alex Baldwin one)? PM me.

I don't see why it wouldn't in places it logistically can fit, but it's kinda pricey compared to a standard mechanical switch so I imagine it's probably a waste of money to replace random switches for no reason.

If you can find at least 10 buyers, I'll ask him to make it. Shouldn't be an issue if there are enough that want it.

Alright - I'll reach out to Kerry and see if he wants to get this made. He's on limited availability right now so might be a month or so for an answer. Will need either an original or exact measurements of it if anyone wants to DM me...

-G

UPDATE: Being MADE!

Done. Mantis will have a replacement ready for purchase in the coming weeks.

Common. Some have suggested bending the targets downwards but this did not work much for me. Others have replaced the foam target backing with something less bouncy like Titan rubber. That seems to work better.

If anyone still needs one of these I have one. Brand new, never used. $25 shipped. DM me.

Heads up guys! The replacement mini playfield bracket is now available from Mantis and I'll be posting it to their website today around noon. Orders for this will ship on 12/2. It's $55.

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Hey everyone - experiencing an issue where the battlefield drop bank reset plate is skipping over the end drops because the notch that pushes them up isn't long enough. This seems like a terrible design flaw so I'm wondering if I have a non-factory reset plate or something here isn't original?

I had a shorter sleeve in the coil (pictured) which I believe is factory that I've switched out for the longest one you can possibly use while still giving the plunger full range. Not any better. When the plunger rotates, the reset plate moves side to side and skip the end targets (pictured). Anyone have a solution for this or do you see any parts that are incorrect here?

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Yes, all nuts are fully secured. The only play of any kind in this entire mech is that plunger that goes in the coil can be rotated - the reset plate itself stops the rotation when either end hits the bracket. I would imagine this is intended. It's not out of the ordinary. The only way I can see to fix this is for the plunger and therefore the coil opening to be closer to the bracket, which would allow it less play. But nothing is bent odd or in a way that would move the plunger further away from the bracket....maybe the back (brass) coil stop SHOULD be bent down to angle the coil that way? How is yours?