(Topic ID: 46571)

The Shadow Club

By marsgnu

10 years ago


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  • 10,922 posts
  • 754 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by Pinkitten
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4 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #73 Insert LED bulbs and colors Posted by MnHotRod (10 years ago)

Post #4322 Alternate Shadow Translite and Speaker Panel Posted by Aurich (6 years ago)

Post #4328 Shadow Manual Rubber Ring Chart link Posted by PinMonk (6 years ago)

Post #7873 The Shadow pistol grip info Posted by RobDutch (3 years ago)


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#7433 3 years ago

looking to join this club...anyone looking to sell...shoot me a pm...Thanks...( I'm aware of whats on the marketplace)

2 weeks later
#7445 3 years ago

Hmmm this?

Screenshot_20200908-151223_Chrome (resized).jpgScreenshot_20200908-151223_Chrome (resized).jpg
3 weeks later
#7557 3 years ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Hey Shadow owners - How many of us are playing with a stress cracked one of these (the Shadow mini playfield kicker guide)? Mine is broken on the thin side but the games still plays flawlessly. I have a spare that I paid a premium for but haven’t installed it since I’m not having issues. The part is very unobtainable now. Anybody have a fix for this?
[quoted image]

Maybe something Mantis might do...

#7562 3 years ago
Quoted from woody76:

they are ready and look amazing. This is the black nickel, but the brass look amazing as well. Everyone will need to get with Chris on placing orders.[quoted image]

who has the decals?

1 month later
#7712 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballer3:

These two pics show what I am trying to source. I think I will be able to find the parts for Pic 2, but its Pic 1 that is very hard to track down. I'm also missing the wiring harnesses to and from the transformer to Pic 1 and also from Pic 2 to Pic 1. [quoted image][quoted image]

is this the box you're looking for? https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/04-10292

#7722 3 years ago
Quoted from PBFan:

Batteries are good (Energizer Lithium Ion for years now). It is odd because the game boots. I can go into the Test Menu (I can't see anything due to the garbled display but I can get to the test menu by feel (looking at the Test Menu on my IJ). I do have an error in the game as it gives me the usual ding-ding-ding to indicate that there might be a switch error). So the game seems to know it is alive but the start Menu button won't start a game but it knows it gets pushed in switch test.
I guess it could be a flaky ribbon cable - I need some spares anyway so perhaps I will order a set.
Any other ideas anyone?

I'd go with an improperly seated ribbon cable...or a bad one...look at all your pins to see if any are bent...just had this problem...something similar actually...but that was the issue

1 week later
#7749 3 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Going to check fuse F114 next per pinwiki

you said you replaced the ribbon cables....or at least removed them....I can't tell you how many times I've bent the pins on those headers...look at them carefully to see if you have done just that...

#7758 3 years ago

going through my newly acquired machine and noticing the phurba diverter crank arm assy has some significant wear. That part is available, (A-18983) for an overpriced amount of 40.00...but the plunger is also worn a bit and I'd like to replace it if possible...still serviceable but I'm there now... , but I don't see it at marco or pinball life..or from PSPA...anyone have any leads on this part? part number 02-5135 (armature)

#7760 3 years ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

It’s very obsolete. Pinball center in Germany is knocking them off. The crank arm is crap but the armature is decent. They don’t ship to the US but there is ways around that. If yours aren’t cracked I wouldn’t worry about it.
https://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts-by-game/the-shadow/9332/crank-arm-assembly-for-the-shadow?c=0

Yeah I guess not broken, the burr from the crank caused most of the damage...I guess it will have to do for now...

#7766 3 years ago

I need some new cabinet decals...my go to was pinballdecals.eu anyone have any other alternative to them?...

#7768 3 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Very hard to find, not sure they even exist. Someone should license them from PPS and offer them. Demand would be pretty high I think.

yeah they have them....I guess its my only option right now...https://pinballdecals.eu/?s=shadow&dgwt-wcas-search-submit=&post_type=product&dgwt_wcas=1.

#7771 3 years ago
Quoted from Saltimbanco:

They also have the cabinet decals over at pinballcenter. Once they're removed the European VAT tax, comes to 162€. I don't know much about them, but I was about to make an order..
https://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts-by-game/the-shadow/9489/cabinet-decal-set-for-the-shadow?c=0

Yeah I'm not sure they're shipping to the USA right now...for that matter not sure if pinballdecals is either...reached out ...waiting for a reply

#7776 3 years ago
Quoted from Saltimbanco:

How difficult would it be to find a file for Shadow art, then have it quality printed locally? I used to have banners printed on vinyl for our hockey team, top quality stuff. That same shop was doing wall sized with high dpi for home use, just needed a raw file or .pdf

Hell I'd be up for a custom one If someone came up with one......I've purchased from pinballdecals.eu before, it was for my high speed (which is a pretty basic art design) and they were what I expected...

#7802 3 years ago
Quoted from InfamousDolphin:

Hi all! I have had some issues with my shadow in the past and this forum helped. I turned it on and got this :
https://app.box.com/s/5l03tzjozzp4h6mhd96f0ncabz84ztss
It looks as though the board on the far left isn't getting power, or is something even worse. What is the recommendation?
Thanks

a picture would be better as I can't se the link....are you talking about the MPU board?...if no power there...then no 5V...check fuses first

#7804 3 years ago

Anyone making replacement gun grips for this machine?...I really like the one Aurich has on his...with the coin in it very sweet...

#7812 3 years ago

So was contemplating making a small mod for the shadow ring light with another pinsider...I'm thinking of a small board with a surface mounted led that can then be directly wired to the existing wiring harness as the lamp sockets are no longer available. He wants to know what the interest would be in this to proceed any further...so give me a shout if this is something you guys are interested in...

#7828 3 years ago

so the consensus on the ring lights seems to be ..stay with the led...simple solution I guess...

#7865 3 years ago
Quoted from PhillyArcade:

Got my gun back from powder... came out much better then it was! Before and after. Painted all the hardware satin black as soon as that's all dry I can finally play it again Someone needs to make new grips I found a guy who did them here at one point but does not anymore. Some wood grain grips would be awesome. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

yes on those grips now...anybody?....they seem pretty straight forward, but those raised areas where the screws hold it together, not sure how to attack that....

#7890 3 years ago

Short post in the front or back? Thanks gents

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#7892 3 years ago

Some new decals from mr_tantrum ..reach out to him if your interested

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#7894 3 years ago
Quoted from PunkPin:

My game has the short post in the front.

Thanks..yeah that's the way I wound up placing it...

#7899 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballjj:

Enjoying my recently acquired shadow ,in really nice shape,busy adding a little lighting and changing out the rubber color scheme to my liking
Slowly wading through the 160 pages...
But
Is there a factory setting for the outlane rubbers? Currently have set at about 1/3 from the top.
Both lower flipper swere real wobbly , bushings were broken ,replaced and so much better
Learning the intricacies of the upper flipper,if flipper button is held halfway down lower flipper is in cradle,if full press both flippers activate ,is this normal operation ?
[quoted image]

Yes normal...there are two opto switches on the flipper opto board....one controls the lower, the second the upper...

#7905 3 years ago
Quoted from PhillyArcade:

I'm currently trouble shooting but I figured I'd ask in here. Left flipper stopped working. I noticed one of the diodes came unsoldered on the coil. Soldered that back on nothing. Installed a new coil still nothing. EOS good in switch mode, cab switch good in test mode, no blown fuses. Voltage on the fuse on the driver board for the left flipper I guess I lost something on the fliptronics2 board. Just figured I'd post if someone ran into anything like that before as I'm troubleshoot this... thanks!

Do you have 75v~ at the coil?

#7910 3 years ago

Funny, I watched this movie the other night....not a great movie by any means....the pinball machine...much better....listed value I see was 5K when new...seems it has held its value...

#7918 3 years ago
Quoted from jhummel:

My shadow doesn't exhibit this behavior. I just tried for 15 minutes to activate the lower flipper only. This sounds awesome. Is there something I could look for under the playfield to figure out why mine isn't working?

Did you push the flipper button in very slowly? One flipper should activate ..then the other..., I personally have never used it during game play...it may be how your Opto interrupter is positioned as well...try bending it by hand to get one Opto to open first

#7925 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballjj:

replaced one of my bulbs with a 3 mm white led , the socket was already missing so just soldered it directly to the existing wiring but have an idea on how to make a socket connector I will work on.
I find the led is a lot dimmer mostly due to the encapsulated leds being a directional light source and viewing angle is critical , they are brightest when viewed head on and much less bright from a side view. the 3mm led is a perfect fit in the preexisting hole but if I go the led route I would probably take the red cover off and mount a 1smd facing upwards and then reattach the cover.

So I just received my 3mm leds and installed them into the ring. I noted the current limiting resistor soldered at the led made fitment into the ring too tight, so I moved it down the line a bit. I tested it out today and felt it was a bit too dim. The resistor was set up for 12v, the matrix is 6v. A little math and I believe I need a 300 ohm resistor to give me 20miliamps which most leds use...I had to slide the led in from the ring however as the base of it was too large to fit into the existing hole. See pic...Not sure on why you would remove the red cover on the ring to install an led? what are you mounting the smd too? This is why I was looking at a small board to fit in there...but went this route as it was simpler...

20201221_152829 (resized).jpg20201221_152829 (resized).jpg
#7928 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballjj:

I have not looked at the rings that closely and I just slid the old tiny bulb out and slid the 3mm led into the hole, the base of the bulb prevents the whole bulb from sitting inside the ring similar to how the stock bulb sits
In your pic it looks like you took the cover off to glue the led in place ?
In my experience the encapsulated leds will always look dim when viewed from the side,if you can reorient that one by 90 degrees it will look brighter

I simply removed the ring from the wire form and installed it from underneath, then used a little hot glue to hold in place...I'll see what it looks like with the new resistor and go from there...

#7930 3 years ago
Quoted from Saltimbanco:

Starting to think it should be easy for anyone with a 3D printer to bulk those original sockets (in black to make them more conspicuous)..

Those bulb sockets are crimped onto the wire, even if you make a new socket, still need contacts...I still think my original idea to use a small smd on a white pcb was the easy was to do this...but I'll see what the led looks like when all parts are in...

#7932 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballjj:

I have not taken a ring off the wire form but I can see it is just an open cavity , good to know! , I would do something like this using a single comet smd or similar .
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/123#post-5119435

I like that idea...with some hot glue...should hold pretty good...That is just a regular comet smd buld pulled apart then?

#7935 3 years ago

Did this today...I'm happy with this...

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#7948 3 years ago

I went black...too late to go back...

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#7952 3 years ago
Quoted from attack7777:

The black looks great - now I'm strongly considering it!

Yes I Like it....Hot Rod Plating did it...

#7953 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballjj:

Got tired waiting for an order of the incandescent bulbs to come in so went with a smd as you have done, used a a comet male connector ( I think these are called JT connectors ) as a socket with a little shrink tube ,as luck would have it found one of the tiny bulbs in the bottom of the cab,the socket works with it too
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Yeah it seems simple enough right...

#7957 3 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Do you regret it?

...no love it...gotta read between the lines there....

2 weeks later
#8016 3 years ago

So probably a generic WPC question, but when I press on my coin door volume button, the dmd display is in French? I adjusted the settings to English, and my MPU dip switches are set to USA/Canada. I just installed the LX-6 (which displays as LH-6 on bootup). So questioning where to go here...

#8019 3 years ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

Are you sure the dip switches are set correctly?

Yup...pics

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Edit, ok solved it ...sort of...its a bug in the software... https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/my-shadow-is-speaking-french-during-volume-adjustment

#8029 3 years ago

Can some tell me how their battlefield sits at the rear?...not sure if someone replaced the standoffs with longer ones and is causing it to sit too high

20210119_101828 (resized).jpg20210119_101828 (resized).jpg20210119_101843 (resized).jpg20210119_101843 (resized).jpg
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#8031 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballjj:

not at home but the standoffs and angle at the back board looks about right , what issue are you having that makes you think it sits too high?

The angle at the back, I thought it was straight when I removed it prior to the playfield swap...I checked the size of the standoffs, they're correct...so I guess that's correct then...

#8034 3 years ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Yep mine sits back much like yours - it does seem a little odd but maybe they went with slightly longer standoffs at the front to reduce the angle of the mini-PF??
[quoted image]

Thanks for confirming, yeah that is weird, I'm guessing they got it close and tweaked it with the standoff height till it was what they wanted ...

#8038 3 years ago

So now that I finally have my game back together, I'm having one issue with the battlefield drop targets. When I boot the game up, the coil fires and the targets reset as they should. When the ball enters the VUK, the coil kicks several times even though the targets are already up. Upon the ball entering the playfield, the ball will hit the targets multiple times before dropping (as it should ), once dropped and the ball falls off the playfield, there is no reset, even at the end of the game. the coil tests good in the solenoid test and resets no problem. The opto switches also show as working correctly in switch edge test, and turn off when the target is dropped. I was planning on putting in a new connector on the MPU board where the switch wires come in to rule out a intermittant broken wire. I also repinned the connector at the bottom of the battlefield opto board. I see this problem going back quite a bit, but can't seem to get a definitive answer as to what the cause may be.

#8040 3 years ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Sound like you're checking the right things. Sounds like 2 issues to me
The coil activating multiple times is typically a drop target switch issue, also that the target doesn't get put back up is also indicating there's a switch issue. But I would have expected you'd notice it in the switch test - maybe worth cleaning the optos, checking all the connectors and checking no issues with the 12v power going to the opto board
[quoted image]
The drop targets also have a tendency to get gummed up, which will stop the target dropping when hit? If you have already stripped them down and cleaned the assembly, then maybe it been reassembled incorrectly causing the extra friction?? You should be able to drop the target with a small tap on the front of the target.
[quoted image]

Yeah they're clean and functioning smoothly when tapped. I think I'll try and jump into switch test at the moment its not functioning and see what the switch test is actually "seeing" at that moment. Definitely with you on the switch issue, just odd when I check them they're all showing good?...

#8042 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballjj:

Does the kicker recenter after the ball falls off the playfield?

..actually no...it seems to stay off to the left a bit...what does the software actually use to center it? As the optos for that are out range of where the kicker sits when centered?

#8045 3 years ago
Quoted from woody76:

One of mine did this years ago. It was a bad opto underneath the battlefield. Either wire has popped off or the opto is bad. Easy fix either way.

I'll check those optos, I assume they're on the 10 opto board , dont have my manual in front of me, I do recall going through the battlefield rest with no issues though, I assume they're tested during that test

#8047 3 years ago

So this seems to be an intermittent issue, I played a game today and it worked for a bit, then started cycling the coil again. When I went into test, got the switch/coil error, but all switches were working. At the beginning of the game, I checked the optos on the battlefield, and they were not working but then worked when I tapped them. I'll pull the board tomorrow and check the solder joints and put that new connector on at the mpu board too.

#8051 3 years ago

so I figured out my battlefield issue, after much searching and probing, I noticed when I was putting the playfield back into place in switch test, I heard multiple switches activate/deactivate. so more jiggling of the wire harness to the battlefield and it continued to occur. I removed a large zip tie holding all the large molex connectors to the harness and went straight to the switch molex connector and it practically fell apart in my hands, reconnected and working good now...its the simple stuff that will drive you crazy...

#8071 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

I just searched the group and couldn’t find how to remove the battlefield. I see it has a hinge on the backboard, but what do I need to remove first to be able to lift that up? I’m trying to replace a could screws that hold the plastic on that surrounds the battlefield.
Thanks!

There is a thumbsrew on the left hand side of the battlefield, inside the rubber ring...remove that and it lifts up

#8077 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Working on the battlefield went really well last night. I added a couple spots up there and I may finish it off with a LED strip to light up the kicker better.
My last question for this battlefield surrounding plastic. I found that mine just needs the one screw replaced on the back left side. But I can’t get to it unless I take the Bart field out of the game. How is that done? Thanks again!
[quoted image]

If you're going with the new metal ones, watch out for the diodes/switch tabs making contact with the frame...found an issue today with one

2 weeks later
#8132 3 years ago
Quoted from woody76:

yep, unfortunetly. I think Terry is the one who has them made.

Wish they made the plunger too, mine is worn from the above part getting sloppy and dug Into it a bit...

#8153 3 years ago
Quoted from TinyBlackDog:

I cleaned both diverter assemblies today and replaced both arms with the ones from Pinball Life. What a huge difference it made!
My left diverter is rock solid now but the right one vibrates slightly when it hits the end of a rotation - a bit more when going counter clockwise but happens in both directions. Pretty sure the diverter coil mechanism is dialed in, but there is just such a long distance from the arm to the diverter that there is some natural flex in it that seems to cause the vibration.
It feels like there should be a bushing or something at playfield level to keep the arm from swaying so much.
Anybody know what I should check? I haven’t pulled the ramp or plastics so I’m not sure if anything exists above or below the playfield to keep the mast from wobbling.
[quoted image]

Yeah it seems the guide tube is just sort of pressed into the base of that assembly, making it somewhat flimsy. I asked Kerry from Mantis to see if he was interested in making these, but said he didn't have some tooling to do it right. A nice weld there would be an improvement I think.

#8161 3 years ago
Quoted from TinyBlackDog:

When I bought mine it had no springs so I got new ones from Marco. This vibration is more side to side and not rotational.
If I reach behind the ramp and gently hold my finger against the diverter shaft while hitting the button, the vibration is gone. Seems like it needs some kind of support closer to the ramp. Feels like mine is missing something or all Shadows would act like this.

Where are these springs you speak of? Pics?...I don't have any springs on my diverters...

#8163 3 years ago
Quoted from EZG:

Here’s a couple views. [quoted image][quoted image]

yes that would explain why my diverters are not "snappy" when they hit the end of their stroke...Do you have a part number...need a couple of those...thx

#8174 3 years ago
Quoted from woody76:

Order a couple extra springs. I have 2 springs on each of mine and they are nice and snappy and tight. No wobble.

will do!...I like that shit "Tight"

#8242 3 years ago
Quoted from jedimastermatt:

Presenting my Pinsound Shadow orchestration. This one took a long time to come together with many starts ands stops on the project. The one nice thing about the pandemic has been forcing me to get projects done that I've left lingering.
Every sound file has been either replaced with source audio, new high resolution cues, or for the custom pinball related call outs - some digital cleanup to remove as much noise and distortion as possible.
Of all the mixes I've done, this is the one I'm most proud about how it turned out due to the effort involved.
I decided to tap into the film's origin story for the Shadow in Mongolia/Tibet and use a lot of prayer bells, gongs, and even some throat singing to go along with the call outs that I replaced from the film. Those with a good ear may notice a certain archeology professor's film series being used for some of the gunfire and punches as I think no series has ever done those sound effects better.
I've always been a big fan of the soundtrack with the synth and drums combined with the orchestra. It's one of Goldsmith's underrated scores.
This is a big file and requires a very fast USB flash drive with good read speeds to eliminate any audio delays. Included in the download is a boot.wav so your game as a proper greeting message when it starts up.
https://www.pinsound-community.org/forum/index.php?/files/file/347-the-shadow-ultimate-orchestration-music-and-sfx/
*This is awaiting approval from Pinsound and should be available shortly.

*Please excuse the horrible video quality and play while this was recording. The "clown puke" look for this doesn't appear this way in person. Digital camera sensors almost always oversaturate blue.

looking forward to installing it..

1 week later
#8274 3 years ago
Quoted from epeabs:

Hi Shadow fans. I'm sure I'm not alone, but I am looking for a left diverter. The set screw area on mine is in really poor shape. The repro ones I find at Pinball Center in the UK don't look like they are built too sturdy.

I had asked Kerry at Mantis if he would make these, as I'm sure he'd do it justice, but said he didn't have the tooling to do it...so I left mine as they are for now...they seem to be becoming another unobtainium part

#8276 3 years ago
Quoted from epeabs:

I just purchased the Mantis Battlefield replacement part and the ramps. I don't want to install the new ramps until I have the proper parts to put it back together properly.

You Said the set screw was the issue, but that located on the arm...what's wrong there? Pic?

#8281 3 years ago
Quoted from epeabs:

Correct. The set screw area is screwed up I'm sure like they most are. What initially looked like somebody tried to weld it, is actually a drill hole from drilling out I think a broken set screw. I welded on a new coller onto the arm and installed a couple 8/32 bolts that I had in stock for now. Just wanted to have everything nice and tight so thought a new diverter with the new pinball life crank arms would be the way to go. In the long run I will probably try tig welding the end of this one and clean it up. When I recently bought the machine, I pulled the crank arm area apart to clean and check, and realized the collar actually had a wood screw on one side of it. Definitely not my cup of tea.[quoted image][quoted image]

So it looks like you just need a new crank arm, I would just clean up the shaft with a file as it doesn't look too bad. Unless the diverter has a lot of wobble in the area where the tubing meets the frame, you should be good with the new crank arm. I replaced mine too...worn out a lot like yours.

2 weeks later
#8362 3 years ago
Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:

Howdy.
So all my ring lights are missing the sockets/harness and have standard incandescent bulbs soldered to wires.
Two are burnt out and it's driving me nuts.
I ordered some 3mm LEDs with resistors to replace and they are so dim it's crazy. They may as well not even be there.
Does anybody know where I can purchase the correct socket/harness for standard bulbs (everywhere I look is OOS) so I can just buy a bunch of bulbs and easily swap them without breaking out my soldering iron?
Or more ideally, does anybody know a suitable LED replacement that is as bright as standard bulbs?
Cheers.

Hey Gorillabusicuits, I went through this a while back(in this thread). I wound up just using comet 1 smd bulbs where I removed the housing. worked perfectly, need more light? use a 2 smd. bulb...

8753a0befa527c16d64f49e555c117d5f93f0679 (resized).jpg8753a0befa527c16d64f49e555c117d5f93f0679 (resized).jpg

#8368 3 years ago
Quoted from CashMoney:

Anyone know the part # for the 2 metal brackets that hold the transformer down in the cab? I looked through the manual and didn't find anything. My machine has the wrong brackets installed...
[quoted image]

I believe Planetary has a catalog on their website with all those obscure part numbers...gray or green goods as I recall

#8373 3 years ago
Quoted from daveddd14:

No it doesn’t.

I don't know where that is in the matrix , but check where those switch wires run to next both the column and row...could be broken there I only see one wire (green) so I'm guessing it's at the end of the line...so follow that one first

#8376 3 years ago
Quoted from daveddd14:

Loose connection in the back box. All fixed now!

Sweet

1 month later
#8477 2 years ago
Quoted from rvermeire:

New to the club. Just got a Shadow in with some issues.
The first one :
Mini playfield is not working. Testing : Optos on the playfield are ok, optos beneath the playfield left /right from coil are ok.
All cables seems to be ok, reseated the 3 plugs.
LED 1 is on
Coil gives 11ohm...?? is this ok? I thought a coil only should give 5ohm ?
when I do the motor test left or right nothing moves...
How to test the motor and the coil?
other ideas ?
[quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image]

Trying to recall, but I thought the motor controller board is at the rear (top-underside) of the playfield...have you checked that yet?

#8481 2 years ago
Quoted from rvermeire:

That's the one with the LED on I guess, the LED is on, what else and how to check?

Ok it not the board you have pictured, there another one (I think there are two actually) next to each other...I'd check those connectors first.

#8483 2 years ago
Quoted from rvermeire:

There is only one under the mini playfield + 2 optos on little PCB's and 2 strips holding the lamps.

Ok look under the playfield(main not small battlefield) to the very rear...follow the wiring harness from the motor...should goninto a board...check that

#8485 2 years ago
Quoted from rvermeire:

There is indeed a small board but I think it controls the optos. the red black/wire goes to opto on playfield. The grey/black I think to optos under playfield. The motor has a red and white/yellowish cable.
When power is on, LED onboard is on as well and both optos seems to work according to switch edge test.
[quoted image]

Ok, and the board to the right of that?...

1 week later
#8514 2 years ago

Failure of the LM339's on the opto board is a common failure point...have you checked the output at the board ? the opto wire are a different color than the switch matrix wires...they all go back to the opto board...

#8518 2 years ago

There are four comparators on each of the LM339's so yes you could have just one fail...its easy to swap out the IC (once it's socketed), but you can check the output on the IC and compare it to the other circuits, which are identical.

#8520 2 years ago
Quoted from rvermeire:

Forgive my ignorance but how to compare? what pin with what pin and what should it give as result to be functioning ok?
Unfortunetly not on a socket

you'll have to pull out the schematic, I believe there is one in the manual...look for the output of the comparators and "compare" them to each other in both states (opto unbroken beam- and broken) and see what your results are...

#8523 2 years ago

So your input from the opto comes into the board at pin 1 on J2 right? You can measure the voltage right at that pin coming into the board and observe that there is a voltage change with the beam broken vs not broken...assuming your good there..move to the comparator itself...your pin 5 reference voltage should be steady voltage, pin 4 should vary with your opto - open/ closed...if that's all good then look at pin 2 which is actually the switch for the switch matrix...and check D7 too with your dmm in diode mode...
Use the other opto pin locations for reference voltages...they should be the same

#8530 2 years ago
Quoted from rvermeire:

Just swapped the LM339 for a new one (on socket this time). No changes !!!
It's indeed pin 1 on J2 for switch 47 (receiver side).
I can't break the beam, it's already broken as reported as open in switch test... and can't close it..

Added 2 days ago: Tested violet resistors. All have 268ohms. Al diodes are fine as well (+/- 590).

Added yesterday: The U2 located LM339 controls 3 optos (45-46-47)
45 / 46 are closed (ok) and report 4.3V
47 (faulty remains open) reports 11.6V
Pin 3 (Vcc+) and pin 12 GND report 11.6V as well
What can I conclude with these figures?

Are you sure you installed the ir transistor correctly?pic?

#8533 2 years ago
Quoted from rvermeire:

Other and hope final issue... to finally be able to play hassle free.
The left diverter is no longer reacting on the left blue button. If I do a solenoid test it moves in both directions.
So it gets power and instructions but not via the button. Cables are ok on button side.
What and where can i measure values ?
[quoted image]

Good to hear you've made some progress...does the switch show up in switch edge test?

#8535 2 years ago
Quoted from rvermeire:

Phurba left control is switch 34 and test says it's open.
Hitting the left blue button has no effect.
No reaction in edge test

As I recall, those cabinet switches have their own connectors to the mpu board..usually it's the connector with one or two wires...check continuity from the switch to the board..and make sure they're both plugged in...either way check the continuity to the mpu board

4 months later
#8972 2 years ago

Anyone interested in my original playfield? Has typical sanctum wear spot, but otherwise in very good condition...200.00 plus shipping. Shoot me a PM if interested.

Sold!

2 months later
#9197 2 years ago

Anyone need one of these...its for the upper playfield plunger...as I recall it's a little beefier than the original ( came from overseas as I recall). 40.00 shipped contentenial US...shoot me a pm. this is new never used

16411416340701795387164763744503 (resized).jpg16411416340701795387164763744503 (resized).jpg
Edit -spoken for...

1 year later
#10254 1 year ago

Anyone need a replacement opto board A-15430 (but 5786-14075-00 on board) This came out of my shadow in working order and I replaced the cap for good measure...55.00 shipping incl to US. Note you'll have to use your original mounting supports or purchase new ones...but requires you rivet into place.

20230108_122232 (resized).jpg20230108_122232 (resized).jpg20230108_122238 (resized).jpg20230108_122238 (resized).jpg
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