After reading through some of the looong threads (german & here on pinside) about those protectors, I concluded that a majority of people were happy with them if you were looking for an easier and cheaper option to Clearing. I ordered one for my shadow recently and it's sitting waiting for me to finish cleaning her up, get the rest of the LED's in, rerubber & shine the wireforms. I think I'll be done in a week or so and will say something regarding my opinion of it. Difficult decision as I don't entirely like looking at the cut-outs around switches etc.. but I played A BOP 2.0 recently with one and hardly really noticed it. I guess worst case it's just a few hours to tear down again to remove it.

If there's no diode between the lugs it doesn't matter if the are reversed

Was just looking at vids guide last night and that sounds correct - lugs opposite cool stop or they tend to get broken

That looks awesome! How long did that take to program?

Anybody know what the legality is of remaking some of these parts via 3D printer, or other methods (welding new ramps, etc) and offering them on pinside for sale as a side hobby? I'd assumed that companies remaking some of these parts had bought rights to do so but on a very small scale of just offering them not really for profits but just to have them available is that at all legal trademark/rights-wise?

Hahaha - nice. A shame it seems it can't be done legally. So many pieces for pins are impossible or hard to find. The shadow had me thinking about it more With no way for owners to get a new shroud and the wall target I recently had to order for what seemed like way too much money. Guess there is no way around it unless Individusls make the parts for themselves.

How appropriate - home made purba daggers from Poland up n marketplace. Look pretty damn close to original!

Interested to hear. Considering them but mine are both intact and look ok. If these are good quality though maybe nice to have some spares..
Edit - never mind I see the ad is already pulled. There's my answer about copy rights. Hadn't realized these were already made legally though. Good to know

I think I do. Let me check tonight. I'll pm you if I find it

Start easy.. pull fuses and check each one. Anything else going on besides the battlefield issues all of the sudden? Lift up the battlefield and check the metal bracket that goes around the main gear that moves the kicker back and forth. If it's broken anywhere this can cause the problem.

Anyone on here have a ColorDMD installed on another game? I'm wondering if there's any issues buying one for say a TAF, and then swapping it over to Shadow once the code is released? I don't know if there's any specific reason to buy a kit marketed for any certain game since the code is all downloadable?

Hmm.. I've been looking for that cityscape -- I wonder who redrew it.. I'd love to pick one up as well.. guess I'm going back through 36 pages unless anyone who knows would be so kind as to pm me

My bracket was also broken on right side originally and would work a bit in test sometimes then fail. If not that wondering if there's some short or voltage issue when the rest of the pf is active..?

this. Makes it so much better but I can see people preferring a single color. Can't justify 400 for a single color though myself

Extremely excited about this! Aurich kit arriving today as well and new ff speakers next week. Can't wait to put it all together want to see some teaser DMD shots

Hoping to get thoughts on a two issues I have had since I got my shadow:

1) The battlefield kicker 'kicks' pretty much every time the flipper button is pressed to slid it right and left. It still slides fine both directions but it just kicks one time first as it starts to slide. Pretty sure it should only kick when the opto beam is broken by the ball.. right?

2) The skill shot.. the phurbas reset both pointing down to the left side on ball start. You select the skill shot, and if you hit the left ramp for it it awards the one that wasn't selected. I've gotten used to remembering it's opposite but I'd still love to solve the issue.. haven't had any great ideas on what would cause that yet except something weird with the wiring. It awards the left or right side of the left ramp correctly when you hit them otherwise.

thanks for any thoughts on these..

Thanks I'll double check connections.. I pulled all those plugs already to install LEDs and clean but it's possible I connected them wrong again.

Will check for batt field short as well -- good idea.

No luck with connectors.. I don't see any way to misconnect them since they are all keyed. Could not find a short either below battlefield. Did notice it works fine in test with coin door buttons though. Mystified.

Thanks Asael! You were right on. Switched the coils across and that solved the skill shot problem. Kind of embarrassed I hadn't thought of this.. before I switched them I just tried hitting the ramp switch opposite where the ball would be diverted and it awarded the correct skill shot award.. thus switching the coils or the wires to the coils would make sense.

Now if I can just figure out the battlefield kicker issue. Cleaned the flipper optos, looked at the wiring underneath.. tried the switch test and jiggling everything around to see if it triggered the kicker. It doesn't seem like a short since it only happens once upon flipper button contact, and consistently when I try to the move the kicker to the left or right during gameplay

On a side note.. I just installed FF speakers as I was getting some crackling/distortion on higher frequencies with the old kit and I wanted to upgrade anyway. I'm still experiencing this even with the new kit. Anyone have this going on too or experienced it before.. is this just normal for this game? Maybe some electrical component issue going on with the sound board?

**Edit** Switched out soundboards with WCS and it seems to have improved somewhat.. now WCS is noticably "cracklier". Perhaps the two 1000uF caps need to be replaced on the sound board? Nothing obvious is burnt up or anything. Both WCS & TAF are good and loud at around volume 12 - 14, whereas with either soundboard Shadow isn't even that loud at 24.. Where do people have their shadow volume at typically for a good level?

**second edit** solved crackling/scratchiness by clipping caps c37 & c45 on the DCS sound board per Pinwiki. Any insight on the low volume appreciated!!

hmm.. guess you could try blue or aqua lighting behind the translite to try to match it to the DMD better.. I guess there's no way to adjust the coloring of any specific tone on the DMD - unfortunate. Suprised there aren't any videos up on Youtube yet of the action.. I'm waiting to get my DMD.. anxious to see what it looks like in the machine though

Aurich translite package for sale on marketplace at cost (not mine). Surprised no one jumped on it yet.. Thought I'd post here in case people had not seen it yet

+1 to what aurich says about color dmd -- just installed mine today and it's awesome! Such a big improvement and it looks great with the aurich kit to boot. Only wish the display green were a tad darker in shade but no great matter.. still looks amazing.

Curious about the led boards - do they really make anoticable difference? I have not noticed anything with the LEDs that bothers me but maybe i don't know what I'm looking for..

Sweet!! That's great news excited to see what you come up with!

You have any luck messing with that aurich?

Yeah.. Mine has a gap there as well although not enough for the ball to drop through. Wish there was a way to adjust

Thanks colordmd and aurich for updating -- looks great! Green shade matches everything else really well love it!

That sounds like the opto under the mini-pf on that side isn't sensing the beam being broken when the kicker swings over. I'd check the wires to it and see it one came off or maybe it never got reconnected if you disconnected it?

Question: how long should the battlefield run after the ball drops off (ie.. the flippers moving the kicker back and forth)? I've heard it should stop after a switch hit anywhere else on the PF. Is this true for people? I find mine running much longer than it seems that it should at times.. and other times it stops pretty quickly after the ball drops.

I'm also having trouble with the kicker firing (just once) when the flipper buttons are activated to move it back and forth. I think that the problem has been narrowed down to a low +12v line and the motor inrush current causing the 12v to drop low enough for the opto to accidentally trigger every time the motor initially moves left or right. My 12v at the opto is 11.4 and it def. drops (to around 10.4) when the motor runs. Can anyone else confirm this on their machine?

Someone else has mentioned that it should be more around 14v. I wanted to verify this before I start pulling cap's out and replacing the bridge rect...

thanks!!

Hmmm.. Would be an interesting poll. Do you know the total that you have made/sold? I have not looked up how many shadow owners there are on pinside but I'd guess that almost all people with the translite are pinsiders

During test or during gameplay? Coin door is closed right?

I tried probably six or seven different products trying to clean these on mine. Finally gave in -- they all either stripped the gold or didn't remove the tarnish. That gold layer is awefully thin.. I decided it still looked way better with polished silver so I just went at them with a move aggressive polish

Any chance someone could measure the resistance across the terminals of the motor that moves the kicker back and forth? I'm trying to determine if mine is starting to go.. it seems like it's drawing too much power and causing the kicker opto to fire everything the motor starts moving either direction.

thanks!!

You can save $290 by just printing the brick pattern to fit the backboard and spending a couple bucks to have it laminated. Unless you want the lighting effect I guess comes with the 300 dollar one.

Did aurich sell out of the translites? Last I heard he had a number of them left unclaimed?

Holy crap -- $355 final bid?! That's a nice little profit! Couple people really wanted to stop having Alec stare at them

Those are the right ones -- they insert into the 2 - wire "harness" for each bulb - it should have a white plastic circle on the end with the two holes for the rigid bulb wires to fit into. Def. looks like a hack job... if I remember right you can order a new "harness" wire for the bulb?

Fairly certain he was done done doing these on the last run but I suppose people have said such things before

I have a used one if you just need a replacement for one that's missing -- have to dig around and I'm headed out of town early tomorrow for Michigan show.. back Monday if your not in s hurry I'll take a look. It's possible it got a bit marked up trying to get rivets out

Yes, as mentioned, just drill them out. But you walk to be cautious of the bit walking across the plastic.

The lamp holder -- fairly certain it's on Marco specialties. about $10? .. do a machine search for shadow then sort by price. I'd go find it but only have mobile till Tuesday.. takes forever without desktop

Hmmm let me look back thru emails when I'm home.. may come up with something. I also replaced two of the 2 wire harnesses on mine because the lead going into the bottom of the bulb connector snapped.. I think it's repairable as a last option but I'd have to see if I ended up keeping or tossing it.

Welding is obviously best -- I think the right side brackets you can find but left side only used? Short of welding you could use some jb weld glue and another piece of angled steel behind it to reinforce

t2 here's your options -- just found them

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tiesmasc

For problem 1-- you should be able to buy a new crank from Marco I believe -- I saw I had a brand new spare yesterday in a bag so I got it from somewhere, pretty sure Marco and pretty sure it was under $10.

I vaguely remember messing with this -- I feel like the brass gear was drilled and threaded in two places -- is that right? Original had a single caulder pin thru gear and shaft? If that's correct I'd just reuse the original motor and use 2 Allen set screws on the gear. I'm pretty positive I did this on a non drilled new motor shaft after giving up on any chance on drilling thru it correctly. the set screws hold it secure if you tighten them good. I kind of remember a lot of frustration with the gear on the shaft trying to drill thru the existing holes on the gear using them as a guide but it's impossible to hold it all secure AND keep the bit from walking on the circular shaft. At least that was my experience..

I haven’t been keeping up enough on this thread — is the black battlefield apron still unobtanium? Curious what one goes for if you can find it?