Shadow, The
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Looks like I’m in the club. Game gets delivered next week. I’ve played / owned a lot of pinballs but never a single game of The Shadow. I made the purchase solely on game recommendations from fellow Pinsiders. Looks like something I’d like. I hope you guys know what you’re talking about. 
I do have a bunch of mystery parts floating around in the cabinet. I might play a game of "where does this go? "with you fellas later.
Quoted from Aurich:It's missing something.
I'm working on it. The offensive Bladwin will be replaced soon.
Quoted from Aurich:It's missing something.
Baldwin is gone. It looks much better now.
20190705_221611 (resized).jpgI installed a new rack and pinion kit on The Shadow. The set screw in the Marco kit protrudes out a bit and needs to be ground down for smooth operation. Pricey but seems to work fine. I did notice a crack in my slide bracket. How have others fixed this issue? I was thinking about just having my local body shop just doing a quick spot weld. Any thoughts?
19F01C79-3061-40F3-B4AF-86841D83F00C (resized).jpegTired of air balls on this game? Here is a very low tech invisible solution. Picked up these little guys at the hardware store and stuck one each on the problem impact targets. You'll need to adjust the contacts a bit but after that you should be in business.
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20190730_175617 (resized).jpgQuoted from Tranquilize:I'm not sure that will work long-term. The issue is usually that the metal supports bend backward. I just put flipper rubber plugs in the gap behind the metal after bending it forward. It's been perfect for two years and counting.
I forgot to mention that my targets are the reinforced ones. They sit nice and straight but were still generating air balls. The design of the reinforced ones aren't easily modified to bend forward. The extra little pad adds just enough downword pitch on the face of the target when struck to keep the ball on the playfield.
Quoted from joelbob:So I'm getting a ER. BAT. DROP BAD CHK. SWITCH/COIL error. Last week I was measuring the leads going into the drop target coil and I wasn't getting anything during solenoid test. It wasn't until I measured the connector plug right before the assembly that I was actually getting power during a solenoid test. I assumed the coil was bad so I bought a new one. I put the new one in last night and it worked. I went to test it this morning and it is back to failing. When I run the solenoid test for the drop coil I hear nothing. It is like it isn't even trying to fire it. The reset coil will fire all day but the drop won't. I just tested the new and old coil I removed and they measured 5 and 4.5 ohms respectively which I assume means the old coil is just fine. What would keep this coil from firing even during solenoid test?
That is an oddly touchy mechanism. Take it off and clean it up really good. My guess is it is just hanging up on itself. I assume you replaced the coil sleeves? Clean up all the metal, springs and the plastic drop target. You can even wax the side the target slides against. After that it should work fine. Mine was doing the same thing before the good cleaning.
Quoted from joelbob:Yeah I completely disassembled my Wall target which was having similar problems but this one surprised me. This is just the single drop target that leads up to the Battlefield. The reset coil will pop the target back up all day. This issue is the coil that is supposed to drop the target. I'll take it back apart tonight but I can't understand why the coil does fire when I'm doing a solenoid test. This coil is just a magnet so no sleeve to replace.
Sorry, didn’t realize it was the Battlefield drop. That one is annoying for different reasons. There is a good write of this problem. Let me find it and I’ll post.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-problem-with-drop-target-to-enter-battlefield
Quoted from Jimmyhonda:Anybody know where I can get plastic protectors for shadow? At least for the slings?
Pinbits has a large set offered that protects everything.
Quoted from Johncare07:Anyone know if there are Cliffy or Cliffy like protectors for The Shadow?
What are you looking to protect?
Quoted from pinballjah:What is the issue? In case it comes up. Thanks.
A fast ball hops over the switch on the left ramp right wire form path causing it not to register (score). This makes “vengeance” and multiple combos very difficult. Moving the switch down the path a couple inches allows the ball to settle down a bit and roll in the wire form where it can be registered far more consistently. Makes a huge difference to your high scores.
Quoted from SeaLawyer:That’s the nicest looking one I’ve seen. Post a tracing of it?
Thanks for the compliment. I completely made it up as I went along. The trick is being able to shape Lexan. I use a dremel and metal shaping bits. It seems easy enough to me but I’ve seen a lot of people have trouble with it for some reason. Just take your time. The part is Loctite installed so I’m hesitant to pull it out. 
Quoted from Chitownpinball:Need some insight from the shadow lovers.
I put new flasher domes on, and new bulbs. Worked for about a week then blew fuse F111.
I pulled all the sockets out, did not replace them, left them out of the game. Still blows.
I popped connectors J106&J107 off, still blows.
I do NOT have a print manual unfortunately so I dont have the schematics.
Any helps is appreciated.
That’s going to be a short somewhere on your flasher string. Don’t forget to also check the flashers in the backbox.
Quoted from MG7322:Anyone have a picture where that bracket goes on the battle field kicker? Even looking at the schematic I cant figure out where it goes. Sorry, I’m sure its simple when I see it...
It covers the lugs of the kicker coil. There is paper insert that goes inside also to keep it from shorting against the metal plate. Every photo I can find online has it missing. If you’re still in a jam PM me with your phone number and I’ll take a photo of mine and send it to you. It is shown on page 2-28 of the online manual in the the lower left drawing.
Quoted from pinballjah:These are currently being made. See previous posts.[quoted image]
I wish they were being made. He is between runs. I tried to get on the list but there isn’t an ETA on the next run as of yet. 
Quoted from Djshakes:I guess I should hold onto my spare.
Or you could sell it to me.
Quoted from pinballjah:Anyone install the ramp protectors from Pinball Life? Just wonder how they look installed. Think they are useful? Thanks.
Do you mean the two pieces of plastic that cover the ramps? If so the are totally necessary to keep the ball from going airborne plus add some structural integrity.
Quoted from Wmsfan-GAP:Can someone with a zero issue game post pics of switch edge test on the DMD with and without coin door shut please? I’ve got this m-fking short in my game that has reared its ugly head and I finally have time to address over the holiday season...
As requested:
20191207_171446 (resized).jpgQuoted from Flystoyer:Hey Guys,
I have just open my Shadow that has not been used in a few years.. before storing the game would turn off on both or one flipper would be engaged. Some suggested it was a rectifier of which I do not where or what this is. Now the machine will not even start up. Board have steady red light on and some buzzing from the sound..
Any help out there?[quoted image][quoted image]
It is a good chance that your power / driver board needs rebuilt. That is the largest board in the backbox. You are correct, It could be a bad bridge rectifier. Those are the 3 square things on that board. It is also likely the capacitors need replaced on that same board. It is an advanced repair. If you're not comfortable, I would recommend sending it in for repair. Before you do that, swap the board with the one in your Indy 500 to prove that is the problem child. Knowing what board is bad is half the battle. Fixing it yourself is about $20 in parts. Sending it in for repair is around $150 and replacing it with a modern replacement is around $300. I use the Coin Op Caldron for my board repairs.
Quoted from isJ:tiesmasc:
Thanks! Maybe I am missing a piece on the guide by the battlefield that pushes it toward the loop? Is that upper clear plastic laying flat? (4 black supporting posts all even?)
The spacers on that plastic are two different sizes to create an escape route for the ball. The taller spacers are on the right while the shorter ones are on the left.
Quoted from isJ:So if I'm seeing this right, the slope runs to the left and uses the plastic/wireform to guide the ball off of the plastic and in to the left loop instead of on to the wireform?
Correct.
Quoted from isJ:And the bracket should make it so that it always drops onto that plastic and doesn't bounce onto the wireform, etc. Want to make sure I'm getting this right before I go fiddle-fart around w/ it tonight.
You are correct. When the ball falls off the mini playfield and hits the slopped clear plastic it will get redirected to the far left orbit. The ball should also hit the switch in the left orbit as well (most of the time).
I need some Shadow help. About every 15 games or so my game goes crazy. All the balls eject and switches go off that aren't being touched. This lasts for a couple minutes then everything goes back to normal. I have not been able to catch the problem in test mode. All my boards are stock.
The funny thing is one of my customers had the same problem on a Addams Family that I fixed. I don't want to say what I did to make the repair because I don't want to sway anyone's troubleshooting guesses. I was able to duplicate my customer's problem in test. Here is a photo of the swich test with the fipper buttons pushed and a second photo after it was repaired. The repair was not my first thought hence why I don't want to mention it. Has anybody experienced this on The Shadow? If so, what was the fix? Thanks in advance.
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I guess it is kind of obvious what I did to fix the Addams Family after I looked at the photos. Still need feedback on my Shadow problem. I just don’t want to throw a board at it.
Quoted from Lermods:Symptom sounds like a battery corrosion issue.
That is always my first thought also but Shadow has that floating daughter board where the batteries are installed plus I see no evidence of leakage.
Quoted from woody76:hey guys, I got to gauge interest in doing a run of the metal battlefield shrouds. Another guy did a handful but has since walked away. The one I do will be an exact replica to where his was slightly different. I assume he could not do all the bends and stuff. I can offer in brass, chrome, and black nickel and can even do some powder coated ones if need and maybe even sell some as raw steel and you can do whatever you want to them. It really only makes sense to do at least 50 pieces. I am thinking they will be $200 plus shipping with brass, chrome, or black nickel plating. If there is enough interest I will pursue it if not i will not. Please PM me if it is something you are interested in.
I love my Shadow. I’m down for one.
No stadium lighting or spots on my Shadow. Just good LEDs. All the GI is sunlight Comet bulbs.
20200306_181657 (resized).jpgQuoted from pacman11:I just cleaned and rebuilt my flippers on my shadow, but I still feel the flippers are just a tad weak. Have any of you guys bought new coils that are a little stronger then the orgianl for the game? If so which coils did you upgrade to?
Check your flipper opto boards. Those get tired / worn out and the flippers become weak because of it.
Quoted from pacman11:Okay good idea.. I’ll remove them and clean them.. They seem to respond just fine but could probably use a good cleaning. Have you had flipper opt cause a weak flipper before?
Cleaning might not cut it. if it doesn't, don't be afraid to buy replacements. They are fairly cheap and have been redesigned to be more reliable. Yes, diminished through put will impact flipper performance. The actual optos are only part of the equation. Failing traces, resistors, solder and pin corrosion are all other possible culprits of problems on that particular board.
Quoted from mrgregb123:Glad you asked. DO NOT DO IT. It was a nightmare.
I've restored 5 games - all Williams/Bally. This game has the least "stuff" and yet took 4x longer than any other game I've done. Why? Because I used a CPR playfield. And the dimples are ALL wrong. OK let me be fair, 10% of the dimples were in the right place. The rest are either missing completely are off by as much as half an inch.
The through-holes on the top side were pretty good, I cannot recall any misalignments. But the clear coat that CPR uses is garbage. Put it this way, I've played 10 games on it so far since restore - using pristine Ball Baron Ninja balls - and yet most of the playfield is already scratched up and looks well-played.
Contrast this with the restores I've done...for example my TAF has 1,200 plays since restore and the playfield has far fewer scratches than the CPR Shadow with 10 plays on it. I use PPG auto clear coat. Whatever CPR uses ain't it.
Sorry to put a damper on your possible project, but if I can save someone the hassle, I want to do that. I don't know if there are NOS or other brand pfs out there for The Shadow, but I wouldn't use a CPR pf again if it was free.
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The only "dial in" issues I had, were mostly Battlefield related. The hammer swiveled side to side when in motion (common issue). This is fixed by using pliers to carefully close the bracket/fork it sits in so that there is only enough room for it to settle on (in the center groove but not pushing through). Also had to fix the slow-dropping targets using a tip I got on here - car wax. Sped those babies right up. Oh, and one of the rails the hammer rides on - the one with the black bumpers on each end - one side was broken off, causing the hammer to sometimes come off track and not move. I don't know if you can buy this part (it's a tiny piece that screws into the rail) but I used a couple of lock-nuts and a screw to accomplish the goal....until I can find that piece.
This surprises me. Dimples being wrong isn't a big deal but bad clear is a huge issue. Do you have some photos of the damage that you can share? I've done several CPR installs without issue. They have all been old school silkscreened ones. Haven't tried one of the new digital printed ones yet.
Quoted from play_pinball:Been dusting the cobwebs off my Shadow after it was essentially in storage the last 10 years. I’ve got everything playing great but I keep getting a mysterious credit dot midway through some games. After the game is over (and I’ve confirmed the dot is still there), I go into menu for a test report and... nothing. I exit menu and it’s gone. I can confirm all the switches and optos are functioning as intended.
Also is there a bug in the mirrors scoring? Says reward is 70mil. Completed it earlier right at the start of Ball 1, drained quickly after and my score was only 20mil. Wha?
Batteries or NVRam? I've seen weak batteries cause credit dot problems. If they aren't weak, maybe the contacts on the battery holder are corroded. Also make sure the date and time are set.
Quoted from Flystoyer:Thanks Yellowghost and Mad Dog,
I will check it out and again thanks for the guidance.
I wonder if this is why the game will not start up--??
I notice the switch matrix list for a Through at number 44 is the this the main ball through since there is 5 total and is't switch #4?
Also anyone have a link to the full manual as I have only some from the purchase of this used machine several years ago?
Again, Thank you guys!
Here is the link to the manual.
https://www.ipdb.org/files/2528/Manual_Bally_1994_The_Shadow.pdf
Quoted from Flystoyer:Hey Mad Dog and Yellowghost,
Ran the switch text and many fire in one touch full rows.. All over the place.. The ones I circled are not operable and do not show up on the text..After playing around with other, the top mini playfield right will show up for onenote on the text then disappear..
Also while in the switch test I touch an area for around J117 or so and the text goes nuts with full runs and craziness.
Start button and buy in bottom kick backs and drain lanes.. Wow what to do now??
What I would do is touch each switch in the switch matrix while in switch test. X out the ones that work as they should and circle the ones that don't. A pattern should present itself. Look at every problem switch closely. A common problem is a diode will get bent and short out against a wrong contact on a switch. I'm hoping it is something simple like that. How does your MPU look? Any battery damage?
Quoted from play_pinball:Yes, the play is in the plunger not the reset arm.
Is the coil sleeve the correct one and not worn?
Quoted from play_pinball:Hm I did replace it with one 1/4” shorter than the original but the same circumference. Since it still makes it through the bracket, I assumed it’s working just the same. Possibly not?[quoted image]
The longer sleeve should lessen the amount of play. It's worth a shot.
Quoted from PinHigh1:Just picked up a nice Shadow and joined the club! Anyone know where I can find the alternate translite for sale??
I'm about to tear everything off the playfield and clean it up...playfield is actually in very good shape but dirty. Fixed some burnt GI connectors and a couple broken coil wires and now playing great... although probably needs the new diverter linkage piece. Been in the same home for the last 20 years!
Welcome to the club. As always, we want photos. As for the translite, write the maker (Aurich). Seems like he’ll do another run if he gets enough interest. I’ve lost count on how many runs he has done.
Quoted from Flystoyer:Hi Yellowghost and Mad Dog and or others, thanks for the guidance and support. I trust you are all well, healthy and safe...
I finally had a chance to upload a "Youtube" video of the switch test to show the craziness. My story to catch up, is that was inspired to install an LED upgrade. Game was playing well into about 60% of the LED swap out near the back end of the playfield and the mini. After completed, game will not boot up into game mode. Messages are "Ground short"-many switches in the test are not working.. Here is a "YouTube" video and some photos.I hope I did not damage a board!!
Anyone with help and guidance to this troubling messages..What is a Ground Short and where do I start?
BTW--Since I have been on this support, I have sold a game, fixed two others and many more.. Love the help and support..[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Just a quick observation - Is J121 installed correctly? It looks like it might be off a pin. Even if it isn't, put that on your to do list. Stuff like that wrong connector always drives me nuts.
What brand of LEDs are you using? Some machines really hate being LEDed but those are mostly older Gottlieb games. I don't know of any problems in that era Bally with modern LEDs. It is possible that you have a bad LED in the mix but the degree of your problem indicates a true short someplace. Most likely caused when your were changing the bulbs out. Something is touching or pinched that shouldn't be. A test you can do is pull the wire from J205 pin 4. The ground fault should go away. If the game stabilizes you know the root cause is in that wiring path.
Quoted from Flystoyer:Hey Mad Dog--Is that possible with a bad LED to create a short??
LED system came from PinballBulbs.com a full kit I did with Addams family and THIS shadow. I Did the J205--4th pin and only turned off the enter button for programing.. (See photo) -- Any further thoughts--Or did I get this incorrect?
See the Green right--is there anything there to try.. "Green=Ground??--LOL[quoted image]
Sorry, my bad. Put that wire back. I was looking at the wrong column in the switch matrix. It should be J209-4. Pull that one and see if the ground fault goes away. And yes, a bad LED can cause all sorts of problems including ground faults. Seems unlikely in your case since the game is complaining about a problem in the switch matrix but you never know with these things.
Quoted from Flystoyer:Hey Mad Dog,
See the photo, is this the one to remove the "Green and Yellow"--- (Funny that it's calling for white and yellow) Does this correspond?
How can you tell if there is a bad LED? Any visual signs?
Working on both yours and Yellowghosts ideas..
Thanks again all of you guys!!! -- This is great..
PS.. Is there a Group for each game like "Shadow" -- "Addams family" -- Etc...???[quoted image]
That is the 207 connector. You need 209. It is the one to the right of that.
Quoted from Flystoyer:Hey Mad Dog,
No luck on the J109 pin for (Green and Yellow) -- I will run the Matrix testing one by one..next.
Darn I miss playing it already.
You mean j209 pin 4 don’t you? That should be a white and yellow wire. Your response makes me think you're on the wrong connector.
Quoted from Flystoyer:Hi Mad Dog,
Ran that one as well (White and Yellow) No luck and was the same. Other thoughts?
With that wire off (J209-4) you still had a ground fault? Did you clear your error log? If so and you still have a fault I think you have a problem in the actual switch matrix on the MPU. Sorry - might be time to send the board in for service.
Quoted from PinHigh1:While cleaning my playfield...removed the old, discolored piece of mylar off my sanctum area earlier which I was worried about making it worse. No issues at all. Wear is really not bad at all...have a circle piece of mylar I'll put down to protect. Removed and cleaned the kicker and drop target mechs earlier on the mini-playfield. Is grease recommended for the drop targets and/or on the kicker left/right "rails"?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Looks good. No grease or oil of any kind on either of those assemblies. Wax all the surfaces that make contact and everything should work great.
Quoted from MANTO1975:i have a couple of issues with my Shadow,
first with the upper playfield is the kicker meant to be centered? if so how can I center it.
please see photo
Are you missing any teeth on the gear or track. The mechanism will still work if you’re missing one or two but not as it should. Missing teeth on the track can easily cause a positioning problem.
Quoted from Phesson:I am having a drop target/lock issue on my Shadow. I wanted to go into diagnostics but none of the buttons responded.
I saw in the wire bundle from the coin door that I have a green wire not attached. The length and angle of the wire makes it look like it should go with the rest of the wires in that bundle to J5 on the coin door interface board. But there are no missing wires on J5 or any of the other connectors on the board that I can find.
Any advice on where to go with this issue?
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It might be a ground wire that had an eyelet on it. It might have been screwed into your grounding braid. That is my guess. See any penitrations in the braid?
Quoted from Phesson:My only other issue is the upper right scoop fires 3 or 4 times to get the ball into the lane that feeds the flipper. It doesn’t seem weak but the ball bounces off the rail and back into the saucer.
Easy fix. Check to see if the mechanism is loose on the bottom side of the playfield. If not, slightly tweak the metal that pushes the ball out one way or the other until you find the sweet spot.
Quoted from Djshakes:I'm having a really weird issue. The left drop target on the battlefield drops when I hit the right two during game play and has an issue resetting. The coil fires and target comes up but drops again, almost as if the spring tension is too great, but that's not the problem. Took the battlefield off the game and can't replicate. Spring is the same as others. When I reset by hand the target grabs a hold of the catch ledge fine. Has to be a mechanical issue but very strange. It's as if the coil just can't get it all the way up.
See vid.
I have seen this before. For me, the target dropping for no reason was a slight alignment issue and the more annoying reset issue was the wrong sleeve in the reset coil. It needs to be the longer sleeve to take the extra play out of the mechanism.
D9761B49-930D-42B7-A955-5FD0A2CEF089 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from Djshakes:I definitely have the longer sleeve in mine. Can you explain the alignment issue?
Well like me I bet you took the mechanism off to give it a good cleaning (and swap out the drops in your case). When I reinstalled it I was having a problem with a target dropping that wasn’t hit. I loosened all the screws going into the wood and pushed it back towards the backboard as much as it could go in the original holes. I never had a problem again. A couple millimeter shift made all the difference.
Does your 4 bank continuously reset during game play? That might just be a failed opto or a bad solder joint. Check that out in the switch test.
Quoted from colonel_caverne:Does someone know a source to find the tube in the back of the mini playfield?
Thanks
Are you talking about this?
https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/a-19786.html
https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/03-9215-2.html
Quoted from colonel_caverne:Well, i’m lost in all these différents leds available.
Just need to know what kind of leds to put in the backbox, for GI and for insert.
1 or 2 smd, frosted or not..
This is a personal choice but for me it is always Comet brand these days. For all GI, white, yellow and orange inserts it is Sunlight frosted SMD2 LEDs. All other color inserts are matched to that color LED (still frosted SMD2). The only exception is the middle task inserts on Shadow. Those look great in purple.
20200611_222841 (resized).jpgI have both LCD and LED also in my collection. I like the options the LCD gives you but hate the form factor. The height of the LCD can be seen from the player's perspective as a shadow in some instances. The LED is the footprint of the OEM display and looks much cleaner installed. The other benifit of the LED is lower power draw. My Shadow has Comet LEDs installed which are pretty bright. I feel the brightness and overall display color of the LED Color DMD is a better fit for my game (and a little cheaper).
I forgot. Who did the backboard city scape decal? I love the art but the decal is letting go in the high humidity beach air. I now think like others that it should be a plastic. I was wondering if anybody has the resources to make this happen (with the creator's permission of course).
Quoted from jonesjb:Yes, I had created these and generally the adhesive should stay (I recommend cleaning the surface with isopropyl alcohol to stay - but humidity may possibly affect).
I’ve been considering a reprint. mad_dog_coin_op I had a quick look at my archive and it doesn’t look like I sold one to you... Is it possible you bought the decal from another person?
Hello, I bought it from you last year on eBay I believe. Turning this into a plastic would take it to the next level. I’m sure people would embrace the extra charge required to do so.
Quoted from Daditude:I would be in on that. Of course, if you are looking for another decal, I have a spare.
Thanks for the offer but I also have a spare. I was more curious if we can make the transition to plastic which would be way cool.
Quoted from okgrak:Here is a very minor “mod” that looks quite nice on this machine. These are the clear coin inserts sold by pinball life with some comet purple passion bulbs behind.
[quoted image]
I went blue.
20200725_224909 (resized).jpgQuoted from Daditude:These 2 and the original
[quoted image][quoted image]
Quoted from Saltimbanco:Cool! I've never actually seen the first one. That second, yeah, there's two versions of it I believe. How's the quality on those translites?
I wanted to order the one attached from Retro Refurbs, but they won't ship from the UK to Canada because, you know.. we're baddies and other nations fear us! Lol
[quoted image]
Just get the Aurich one and be done with it. His is the bomb.
Quoted from Saltimbanco:Yup, I like the Aurich as well! Too much red on that one for a little thematic corner I'm putting together for The Shadow
[quoted image]
I’m trying my best to forget that movie was ever made.
Great pin awful movie.
Quoted from delt31:Hey guys.... On a dead stop/trapt ball left flipper - can you consistently hit the right ramp shot or is it random?
My flipper seems perfectly fine but I swear on a dead ball, it doesn't make it up ever single time....I have the right cool and all checks out with the typical issues including dirty opto.
It hits majority but not 100% assuming I got the ball right
I can hit the shot on mine no problem. If the usual stuff checks out (coil, sleeve, stop, link etc) replace the Flipper Opto Board. That is likely your problem. They wear out over time.
Quoted from aFineMoose:What do you guys think: if I was to only have two machines, what is the perfect compliment to the Shadow?
Shadow is a very unique game. Any modern pin that you enjoy will pair nicely.
Quoted from Chitownpinball:Can anyone explain why there is this sharp protruding hook on the wireform? I bought my game with a scratched inside right cab, and this looks to be the issue. I adjusted it a bit, but why would they put this here? Am I missing a part?[quoted image]
Looks to me like your wire ramps are assembled wrong. That hole in the protruding hook should mate up with the connecting ramp. The fact that it is assembled wrong is causing your problem. Fix it and your issue should go away.
Hey Shadow owners - How many of us are playing with a stress cracked one of these (the Shadow mini playfield kicker guide)? Mine is broken on the thin side but the games still plays flawlessly. I have a spare that I paid a premium for but haven’t installed it since I’m not having issues. The part is very unobtainable now. Anybody have a fix for this?
Quoted from jonesjb:What part is this?
The kicker guide under the mini playfield. It takes a beating from the kicker firing and the side to side motion of the motor. I have never seen one not broken on a Shadow that I’ve serviced.
Replaced my stress cracked kicker guide today. Not very hard but the part is very obsolete. Do yourself a favor and don't look under your mini playfield if you can't stand knowing something is broken on your machine. It played fine with the with the cracked one but drove me crazy nevertheless.
Quoted from crackpin:Working on my Right diverter assembly. The right diverted kinda bang on the ramp making the whole ramp shake when diverting to the right. I tried to realign the diverter, but it does't seem to be it. The diverter kinda wiggle. Is this part(see image) supposed to be able to move or should be be stiff? the pipe that goes up to the playfield diverter have a bit of slack it can move, it seem that this should be more stiff.
[quoted image]
Those will loosen over time but I don’t think that is your problem. The diverter, when set up perfectly, does make contact with the sides of the ramp. That being said, if your ramp is shaking you likely have a bunch of broken welds on the ramp. Sound to me like you need a new set of ramps. The Mantis replacements are a huge improvement over the originals.
Quoted from crackpin:I doubt it's the ramp (They are nearly brand new ramp, this Shadow had a heavy restauration, new playfield and new ramps not sure if they are Mantis or NOS), probably more misadjustement on the diverter it was banging pretty hard on the right leaving small mark on the ramp and diverter. Those are very hard to adjust, any good tips on adjusting it? It's hard to be both under the playfield and on top of the playfield at same time. I guess I'll wait for a second pair of hands...
If it is just the diverter alinement tighten the set screws where they will hold position but slip if you apply force. Get them where you think they should be and lower the playfield. Force them to the perfect alinement and then lift the playfield and snug them down. You should be able to check the diverter travel by manually moving the diverter left and right. They should just make contact with both sides of the ramp.
Quoted from Saltimbanco:Everybody already saw this, right? What a fantastic looking part. Go check if your battlefield shroud is intact, and imagine how good looking this replacement part is! Metal!
Least we forget that this part in plastic is unobtainium, you change it for metal and you're all set. Can't wait to see how light reflects off!
I went for the black nickel btw, and the original decal. I like to keep things as close as possible to original!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinballplatingcom-chrome-brass-black-nickel-powder-coating/page/26#post-5890281
Mine arrives Friday.
Quoted from mrgregb123:If you can find at least 10 buyers, I'll ask him to make it. Shouldn't be an issue if there are enough that want it.
Almost everyone needs it. Most don't know they do. I'm down for an extra.
Quoted from SaltyRunBack:I'm getting airballs off the yellow "N" and "G" targets next to the front left ramp that are jumping over the inlane/outlane. Any suggestions on what to do to fix this? Thanks.
Swap out the targets with the reinforced ones. They hold position much better.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-18530-6R
Also check out my low cost solution in post #6153. The air balls are gone after doing those two things.
Quoted from SaltyRunBack:Thanks Mad Dog, much appreciated. I purchased from Marco along with the ramp covers. Any other suggestions for a new Shadow owner?
It’s a great game. Can’t believe it isn’t higher on the top 100 or demanding higher prices. Most of us blame the lame movie. How is your left ramp right switch treating you? Is it not registering or is the ball hanging up on the the switch actuator? That is a problem area on this game. Lots of work arounds but the very best one by far is the solution Pinsider Sonic came up with. It uses a magnetic switch to register the shot. Very slick. Hit him up if you need one. Well worth the money.
Quoted from Chitownpinball:Are we all in agreement that these are the best side blades? I like that they arent too busy.
Kind of pricey though, no?
https://www.retrorefurbs.com/shop/shadow-pinball-sideblades/
Those look the best but I would never install them for the simple reason the playfield is too tight. Stern made modern games so they could up-sell art blades. There is a little extra room to install them. In Bally machines, not so much. I think it would be ruined by lifting and lower the playfield. I could buy the protectors but now it is becoming actual work. For this reason none of my B/W games have them.
Quoted from aFineMoose:Before I start digging into it, maybe someone can offer insight:
My Battlefield isn't working right. When active the kicker only kicks every second. No more, no less. Doesn't matter where the ball is. It was working on and off for a while, but now it's just stuck at this.
I wonder if it could be one of my optos. I'm new to the hobby so I don't know what it's supposed to look like. Is it shaped this way due to damage?
[quoted image]
That opto looks like somebody put shrink tubing on it to narrow the beam. Clean them with a q-tip and go in to the switch test with the glass off. Test to see if that opto is working correctly. If not, remove the tubing and try again. You might need to replace the optos if it still doesn't work right. If that is the case, I would just replace the pair. They are cheap and fairly easy to do.
I also installed my new shroud. It looks great but the thickness of the metal is causing a slight fit problem. The lower arrow is the top slide bolt. It makes contact on both sides. The old plastic one was thin enough to slip past the bolt while the new metal one can’t. The upper arrow is the gap caused by the fit issue. To resolve the problem I’m swapping out the screws that hold the front of the shroud on with longer ones (3/4” should do the trick). I’m also adding a spacer on both sides to suck up that gap. As is, the factory screws barely make contact. Is anybody else having the same issue?
20201016_104035(0) (resized).jpg20201019_105459 (resized).jpg
Quoted from PinballOrphanage:Currently doing a restoration on a Shadow that came into the shop. Bought a set of CPR plastics. Got to the bottom of the entire pile and have this one left, and have no idea of where it goes? Any help would be greatly appreciated!!! Thank you
It is a clear plastic. Holes drilled in it are to far away from the edge for angle clips
[quoted image]
I think that's the one that goes under the mini playfield. Don't use it unless your old one is missing or broken. The OEM one has a bend in it that's hard to do with the CPR plastic.
The two lights out both appear to be on your mini playfield. If you flip that up you'll notice that those are actually two small PCBs with twist sockets. You said the bulbs / LEDs were good so we'll skip that check. The vibration of the kicker causes solder joints to crack. Re-flow the solder on the headers of the two PCBs. That should do the trick.
Quoted from PBFan:Just unfolded my Shadow - it has been folded since April as I was renovating parts of my basement to create a home office. It worked perfect when I folded it but now the display is all garbled and the start button flashed but won't start a game when it is pushed. It did start one game with a grabled display before I turned it off due to the garbled display - now it won't start a game. The CPU LEDs (WPC-S) don't indicate a problem and I reseated all the cables. I get the single sound "nong". Not sure where to start here. A few solenoid's fire at at startup (which I think is normal), however, the mini-playfield paddle doesn't move (which I think it should) and the mini playfield drop targets (solenoid) attempt to reset multiple times (which I don't think it did before).
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Diagnosing board issues isn't my strong point. Thanks.
That particular problem is usually a flaky ribbon cable so double check that. Make sure your not off by a pin on any of the connectors. If that checks out, check all your fuses. Pull them out and check them with a meter. Does your game still have batteries? Check to see if they leaked. Hopefully it is something simple.
Quoted from monkfe:going through my newly acquired machine and noticing the phurba diverter crank arm assy has some significant wear. That part is available, (A-18983) for an overpriced amount of 40.00...but the plunger is also worn a bit and I'd like to replace it if possible...still serviceable but I'm there now... , but I don't see it at marco or pinball life..or from PSPA...anyone have any leads on this part? part number 02-5135 (armature)
It’s very obsolete. Pinball center in Germany is knocking them off. The crank arm is crap but the armature is decent. They don’t ship to the US but there is ways around that. If yours aren’t cracked I wouldn’t worry about it.
Quoted from FatPanda:Guess I'll have to take the one I have out and measure, to make sure it will fit correctly. thanks!
Grumpy very seldom makes mistakes.
Quoted from monkfe:So was contemplating making a small mod for the shadow ring light with another pinsider...I'm thinking of a small board with a surface mounted led that can then be directly wired to the existing wiring harness as the lamp sockets are no longer available. He wants to know what the interest would be in this to proceed any further...so give me a shout if this is something you guys are interested in...
I would say no on this. Converting the rings to LEDs is super simple and only costs pennies to do. Raw LEDs are roughly the same form factor as the OEM bulbs. Just add a resistor and you're good to go.
Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:pinballorphanage link for these?
All my harnesses are missing and the present rigs are kind of a mess. Still using incandescent and they are soldered directly to wire and tend to go out from vibration.
Do these need a resistor?
Thanks!
No resistor needed if you’re using the OEM bulbs.
Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:Oh that's great. OK I see that these are standard bulbs and not LEDs so no need for resistor. Can't beat the price, ordering thank you!
Just for the record. These LEDs Wmsfan offered up already have the resistor added. It makes them a great choice. They are almost plug and play.
Quoted from monkfe:So this seems to be an intermittent issue, I played a game today and it worked for a bit, then started cycling the coil again. When I went into test, got the switch/coil error, but all switches were working. At the beginning of the game, I checked the optos on the battlefield, and they were not working but then worked when I tapped them. I'll pull the board tomorrow and check the solder joints and put that new connector on at the mpu board too.
Reflow solder on the optos first if you tapped on it and it worked. That is probably your bad joint. Lots of vibration there.
Quoted from RobDutch:Wall plastic is driving me nuts.. I have replaced it in 2015 and it needs replacing again. The bottom of the wall breaks because it is too thin. Had glued a piece of sheet metal to the bottom, but it came off..
As far as I'm aware the mech works like it should. Recently took it apart and cleaned it. Anyone got advice for adjustment or a "stronger" wall? Right now the wall shoots up too far up and gets stuck, making the game unplayable
[quoted image]
Just buy a new one. Plastic gets old and brittle over time.
Quoted from chuckwurt:Thanks. I’m wondering if mine wasn’t made properly. I cannot get the diverter rod into the collar. It seems too big to fit into the PBL link. Hmmm
They are too big unless your armature rod opening is worn. Most are so it isn't a problem. The Pinball Life replacements are great but may need to be ground down a bit to work.
Quoted from daveddd14:Loose connection in the back box. All fixed now!
It's nice when it is simple stuff. My favorite repairs have a zero dollar cost.
Quoted from colonel_caverne:Hi,
My right flipper seems weak. I checked the mech and the coil is a FL11629/50V blue as on the left side. Or the manual says that i should have a FL15411 orange. Can i have confirmation? Could it be the reason of my issue?
Thanks
The FL11629 is the stronger coil of the two you have listed. Might just need to rebuild the mechanism.
Quoted from KrazyIvan14:Hi, I read a couple of different posts on this but I’m slightly confused on what my problem could be. I recently bought a shadow and decided to upgrade the DMD to a color dmd. It looks like it had been replaced previously as there’s a vishay DMD installed.
The Colordmd works fine, but now the game will occasionally reset (did not happen before). In other posts it appears that I might have a power draw issue? I’m also curious if this wire from the Vishay DMD has anything to do with it (see photo) as it is now unused but still attached to a board somewhere (I can’t seem to trace the line all the way without removing a bunch of other connectors and cable ties)
Would appreciate any help. Thanks
[quoted image]
Your color DMD uses a lot less power than the old one however it uses different power (5 and 12 volts) my guess is the caps are getting tired and possibly the 5 volt regulator is falling out of specs. These components are found on the driver board and require a certain amount of skill to replace. The easy fix is to just get a kahr board and keep an eye on things.
Quoted from gunstarhero:ColorDMD runs off your 12v so it shouldn’t cause a 5v reset unless something is very wrong. In fact as the Kahr board uses the 12v to “fix” the 5v I don’t even know if it would help unless your problem isn’t the 12v at all.
Also you can just unplug the old
DMD and leave the connector hanging. Most people (myself included) also unplug from
the HV display board but I don’t think it really matters. Just leave the old cables in case you ever need to switch back to a normal DMD.
From the Color DMD website:
LOW VOLTAGE
In contrast to existing high-voltage plasma displays, the ColorDMD uses the low voltage 5V and 12V outputs from a power driver board. A keyed 4-pin power cable is provided for simple connection between the ColorDMD driver board and the existing power driver board. An expansion connector on the power cable provides support for other existing boards and devices.
Quoted from domrod:Hi all,
The drop target which you hit to enter the Battlefield keeps sticking half way. Does anyone know of a fix?
Make sure all the parts are there and not worn. If it continues to stick wax everything. It should work great after that.
Quoted from KrazyIvan14:Thanks for this and thanks Manny. Everything worked, but only for a day. Booted up today and half the inserts were out. Restarted and blew a fuse. I definitely have a board issue. I checked j115 and it appears to be a mess (top pins are loose / wobbly and the board appears to be black / brown here (photo below). I’ve never run into board issues previously and I have no idea how to run continuity. Assuming it’s the board, what are my options? Can something like this be repaired? It’s definitely beyond my abilities. Or am I looking to buy a replacement? [quoted image][quoted image]
Send it to Clive at the Coin OP Cauldron. He'll fix you up.
Quoted from Tuna_Delight:I've had a strange electrical issue pop up on my Shadow in that the Mongol "G" target switch activates the sanctum wall every time it's hit (or just closed when testing). Not a mechanical issue as I originally thoroughly checked and cleaned the sanctum mech and the wall drop coil is fine and wall drop is not subject to vibration. Also replaced the sanctum optos before I realized the "G" target was involved.
Looked at playfield underside wiring/connections - now looking at boards. Any recommendations?
Check the diodes in the switches on that column (both problem switches share the same column). You might have a bad one or something is touching something it shouldn’t be.
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:Check the diodes on the switches in that column (both problem switches share the same column). You might have a bad one or something is touching something it should be.
Quoted from Dennis_B:Removed the diverters. Mechanism is bend but i can fix that. The lower left has a white post , this doesn't make sence as it isn't long enough to reach the hole on the ramp. The right diverter doesn't have a white post but has some rings which don't seem to be doing anything and was extremely wobbly. What is the proper way to install these ? Am i missing some parts ?
[quoted image]
In your photo the top diverter is correct. That metal washer should make contact with the top of your diverter bracket. It is designed to allow the proper clearance between the diverter and top of the the ramp. The bottom diverter shouldn’t have the nylon sleeve on it (at least mine doesn’t). Each of your diverter brackets have a metal sleeve attached to them that diverter rod goes through. If that is loose from wear you get a lot of wobble.
Quoted from Dennis_B:yes, i have these clips and figured out they need to be on these grooves but they are just floating in they air beneath the left ramp, i'm thinking it's supposed to be there because of the nylon slipping down.
I don’t think the left ramp diverter uses the clip. Mine doesn’t have one installed.
Quoted from pinballjj:thanks for the pics, your diverter arm shaft looks different than mine , am i missing the outer black shaft piece or is this a modification?
I think he just painted his diverter bracket. Yours is the same minus the paint.
Quoted from paulbaptiste:My excellent Shadow tutors....Im putting my machine back together and believe everything is wired as intended minus whats pictured. These two wires were just wrapped around a post outside the left ramp.
Where do the wires go?
Thanks for your help!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Looks like you are missing a piece. Those wires go to the other opto on the other side of the ramp. Looks like you are missing it and the bracket it is mounted to.
I think kicking them to the curb was a good thing. The art doesn’t seem to match the game or the movie.
Quoted from Lmjdad:Would anyone happen to have an extra plastic for sale?
[quoted image]
Just buy the new CPR set. That plastic is always one of the first to break. The reason I say this is the reproduction plastics are drastically different in color. I don’t think you would be happy if you were just able to fine the broken one and replace it. The color contrast would drive you nuts. Just get the replacement set and replace everything.
Quoted from jester523:What do you think of this cpu board battery damage? Fixable? Should I get a new board?
Ok, this is a bit of a fib because it's from my who dunnit, but no response over there and it's the same board as my shadow.
[quoted image]
Sure it is fixable but you need to be pretty good at board repair to pull it off. The connectors and headers in that area also likely need replaced. I bet you the pins in those connectors are toast.
Quoted from nicoy3k:I’ve got a pair of tilt graphic art blades just sitting there... debating if I should install. Worried the fit will be too tight and my cabinet sides are in very nice condition so I’m afraid to ruin them
A lot of the Bally playfields are just to tight to install side art. My TZ, Party Zone and Shadow all fall into this category in my collection. If you have a tight fit I would pass on the side art. The protectors only help if there is enough space to accomadate them.
Quoted from shiffdog:Any hard shot to the right side of the left ramp is flying off the rails. Which screws need to be loosened? The ones at the base of the ramp? I don't have any play to work with when I loosen those screws. Thanks.
Got any velcro strips laying around? The kind you use for cable management. Place it here as I did in the photo. One or two times around should do the trick.
20210917_163924 (resized).jpgQuoted from paulbaptiste:Having one final issue I’m hoping the club can help with. I have all lights working minus one row.
The entire bottom row of lights is not working at all.Starting with Right Mongol hurry up all the way through Credit button.
I looked for J133-9 on the power driver board and nothing is plugged in to J133 at all.
What am I missing here?[quoted image]
J133, 134 and 135 are all the same. Find the one that has pin 9 wired. That should be the problem child. Feel free to put it in the correct header with power off to the game.
Quoted from paulbaptiste:I repinned the connector and it that row is still out. Should I replace Q83 or possible the problem is on the playfield?
I would be looking to replace q83 if the wire going to pin 9 on the connector is making good contact. Those IDC connectors can be tricky.
Quoted from onemoresean:Where can I get plastic protectors for just the slings?
Other plastics are far more prone to break than the slings. I would just get the entire set of protectors.
Quoted from TinyBlackDog:Cabinet prep is essential to having your decals look great. In fact I'd say that you will spend 95% of your time prepping for the decal installation as opposed to actually installing them. Any imperfections will show through, since the decals are just a thin skin over the wood.
I've got my Shadow cab completely stripped right now and have gone through two iterations of fiberglass bondo / sand, rinse and repeat. I'll follow with a finer grained filler to smooth things out and get rid of pinholes. Next will be a high fill primer and guide coat, sanded as flat as possible. I'm going to paint everything with black auto paint and then apply a semi-gloss 2 part auto clear. That will end up ready for the decals. I'll probably have at least 40 hours invested in prep before I unroll the decals.
Can you skip the above? Sure. But I'd probably just leave the beat up original decals instead.
I highly suggest watching some of Chris Hutchins' awesome videos from his YouTube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/highendpins/videos
Some pics of my cabinet awaiting the next round of sanding:[quoted image][quoted image]
I’m all in favor of doing all the prep work you mentioned but why spend the time clear coating something that is going to be covered by the decals? Seems like a waste of effort. If the goal is to have the exposed bits pop, I get it but the finish on the decal isn’t going to match the exposed areas. It won’t look very factory. Maybe that is the look you are going for. I’m not dogging you out in the least, just curious. If it were me I would paint the entire cabinet in oil based semi gloss or gloss black and call it good. The end result would be a very factory look. Decals stick great to oil based paints.
Quoted from woody76:All the top restorers finish the cab with a clear. Mike Chestnut did like 5 coats of clear and sanded on my white water cabinet before putting the decals on.
Sure if you are going for the museum look and that might be the case here. I actually prefer the factory look. All my restoration are factory specs with a few exceptions. I like to walk up to a game like it just came out of the shipping box. If it is too pretty I know it has had work done.
Quoted from Pinkitten:It’s awesome you put so much effort attention into the cab prep and decal replacement. It’s all worth it in the end! I have a question for skilled cab decalers like you. I bought a White Water that had new decals installed, and they went fully to the edge in all directions so the edges of the decals are slightly peeling and not laying down. I assume he should have either trimmed the decal to leave a 1/8 inch or less margin, with the cab painted underneath, or sanded the edges? My question is, can I repair these? Should I attempt to sand them? Will that just expose raw wood and look worse?
[quoted image]
That is a pretty sad edge. Clean it up with a new razor blade / exacto and then sand it at a 45 degree angle with good quality sandpaper (like 3M). Use something in the range of 220 to 400. That edge should look great after that.
Quoted from pinballjj:i could use one of those if anyone has an extra
Those plastics break easy. I broke mine first game after installing a new CPR plastic set. Sadly none of the available for purchase plastic protector sets cover that part. My CPR set came with extras of that particular plastic too. I installed one of the backup pieces and fabricated my own plastic protector. I haven’t had a problem since.
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:Flat 8 SMD Purple LED in a Purple cap looks great by me.
I agree - I think using the orange in the first place was a mistake. Bally made a few on this game, just look at the backglass.
Quoted from chuckwurt:#96 bulbs I believe.
906 actually
Quoted from KrazyIvan14:Hi, I've got an unusual problem. The game resets during khan multiball, but after no other times. I'm running a Dumbass board and this is a recent issue (Dumbass board has been fine for 6+months). Any thoughts on where I would start to trouble? I really don't understand what's triggering it.
Resets usually happen when your 5v power dips on your power / driver board. The cause of that is usually a bad capacitor, cracked soder joints or a failing 5v regulator. A lot of things happen during multiball so having a reset happen then is not uncommon if something is beginning to fail. What board is the Dumbass?
Quoted from Taygeta:Hard to tell, considering the cabinet wasn’t faded and the color on the PF is even across the whole cape, I’m guessing the wrong ink was used during printing or something. I’ve seen plenty of faded playfields on this era of game but this looks entirely different
I disagree, that was totally faded in my opinion. Red is always the first to go. If you look closely all the red was off even on the cabinet.
Quoted from TwilightZone:The right side of the cabinet has some fade, but left looks pretty good. I've never seen such dramatic fade on the playfield cape. It would take some serious sun exposure to do that and I think the cab would be way more faded. Also, notice the red on the plastics aren't faded badly.
I'm thinking the error on the playfield is original.
I don’t think the Sun caused it at all. I think the culprit was overhead fluorescent lighting. I have seen it before. Pins and fluorescent lighting are not friends. It has that real even bleaching of color effect. That would also explain why the playfield is worse than the sides.
Quoted from ViperTim:Yes it is free hand painted.
Somehow he (the seller) seemed a bit ashamed of his work.
I’m speechless of how fantastic it looks.Worst of all they get stuck in the trough which is incomprehensible to me. I can’t find any ridges or dimples where they get stuck but somehow they do. They don’t roll down to the lockup sometimes.
Also it’s gotten stuck several times when falling down from the battlefield. Stuck on plastics, wire forms etc.
Stuck in the trough sounds like magnetized balls to me.
Quoted from Saltimbanco:It's the (white) mini socket I'd like to find, quite unobtainium last time I checked.. looking to restore the way it originally was!
Those sockets had a tendency to fall apart after awhile. The bulbs got hot making the sockets brittle. Replacing them with LEDs is the way to go. Looks great and only cost pennies.
The power going to the ring sockets is 5V and most LEDs run at 3v. In order to use them you need to add a resistor or buy some with resistors already added. There are a lot of vendors on eBay selling them with the resistors already installed. Just buy the brightest 3mm LED rated for 5 or 6 volts and wire them into the harness. I personally like the little two pin "matrix" connectors that Comet Pinball sells if you're missing the wires running to your rings. I also like white LEDS for the rings vs red because they are usually brighter. Run the LED into the ring and hot glue gun it into place. You will never need to mess with it again.
Quoted from Gorgar666:Anyone got a few plastics they wanna part with? Basically the 3 larger ones +1...I know the set is available.. May do that...anyone what to split the set and the cost with me?//? i will order ..message me..
Just buy the set. The colors are drastically different from OEM. You need to swap everything or it looks funny.
Quoted from jonesjb:Why are the colors different?
That is a CPR mystery. OEM orange became brown when the plastics were reproduced.
Quoted from radial_head:Alright folks. The sun is shining, but the ice is slippery.
Needing some collective head scratching on an issue I'm having with my Shadow.
The issue I'm running into is that the magnet isn't catching the ball on the initial part of the ball lock show cycle.
Upon rebuilding my flippers (wow so snappy and strong how did I wait so long to do this!) the ball now flys so fast through the optos that the magnet isn't able to stop the ball in its tracks. Instead, it flys past, bounced off the drop target, which gives it a little air, and then misses the ball entirely on its way back down. This only happens when I'm shooting a forehand shot on the left flipper and doesn't bounce across the metal guides (swooshes only).
I'm afraid to "just increase the strength of the magnet" by moving it closer to the playfield because I feel like that's what originally caused so much burn and drama in its original run out on location. My Sanctum area is pretty nice and was mylar'd early so I'd hate to damage it.
I am having a hard time figuring out if the optos are the issue or how to get them to align better of send signal quicker (if that's even a thing). They work properly in the test setting and they are solidly mounted onto the bracket. I've cleaned them (they were a wee bit dirty but not bad).
It is NOT an issue of the Sanctum drop so don't even suggest it. Fully rebuilt. Switch working actively. Drop target sequence works perfectly every time. When the magnet does catch the ball, it throws it in properly and everything.
I have never had a shot the magnet couldn't catch. What does you magnet coil ohm out at? It could be going bad.
Time to move the magnet closer to the playfield I guess. I doubt the optos are the issue. They either work or they don’t.
Time to move the magnet closer to the playfield I guess. I doubt the optos are the issue. They either work or they don’t.
Quoted from radial_head:Nope. You're misreading the issue I'm describing. The magnet works properly and goes through its sequence properly (you can hear the magnet work through its sequence). In fact, if you make the shot cleanly, the magnet missed the ball, then you make the shot again in a more gentle fashion before it does its release and throw, the sequence and ball lock/throw effect still works perfectly.
Mad_Dog_Coin_Op, or anybody in this thread, maybe I'm not fully understanding the magnet adjustment. I assumed that the adjustable threaded core, moving farther down the thread (closer to the playfield righty tighty fashion) increased the magnet power. Is that the correct line of thinking? About how far poking through the magnet do you all have yours adjusted to?
I think the issue is the optos still. I've noticed that mine aren't perfectly aligned through the cut holes in the metal guides. Partially because the magnet was over adjusted and was bending the bracket, and misaligning the optos. Was hoping that recentering the optos would magicaly fix the issue but no dice. Still can't catch the ball.
Yes, moving the core of the magnet closer to the bottom of the playfield should do the trick (if there is room to make the adjustment). My Shadow and HH are both at my vacation house so I can’t help you with the actual gap measurement. But like I said before, I can’t shoot the brick wall without being captured by the magnet. It literally will catch anything once the opto is tripped.
Quoted from radial_head:If you order on Thursdays Marco offers free shipping on orders over $99.
Is this really a thing? I know they do that on holidays sometimes but every Thursday?
Quoted from radial_head:If you follow their with streams PinTech Live (which I highly recommend watching, I learn something new every time) they give out a free shipping code every thursday at 3pm est.
Cool - I'll have to grab the next one. Got an order ready to go.
Did you do the normal stuff like check the fuses and reseat the ribbon cables? Looks like a ribbon cable issue to me.
Quoted from radial_head:Where are all y'all putting your spotlights? I installed some on the top of the slings, but found them wholly too intrusive visually and have never been a fan of how pinstadium lights look too side heavy.
I never found the need to put spots in Shadow. All my GI is Comet sunlight 2SMD and it produces enough light for me.
Quoted from ruzeo:If you could have one machine, godzilla or shadow, which would you choose? I just won project pinball raffle and as much as I love my shadow I will probably be selling it since I dont have the space.
I think I might be leaning towards The Shadow. Don't get me wrong, I like Spike 2 games, but I think they all feel very similar. I have two (Elvira LE and Star Wars Comic Premium). The SW was just sold to pick something else. Not sure what that is going to be at the moment but likely a 90's classic Bally / Williams.
Quoted from acedanger:Picking up a Shadow tomorrow; anyone know where I can get security plugs like pic instead of just looking at empty holes TIA!!
[quoted image]
Any hardware store. Those are just carriage bolts. Paint them black if you want them to blend better.
Quoted from acedanger:On the right it looks as if there's a washer? Sorry...
Yeah, that is just a washer. The washer is probably just being unused to cover up art damage. It is optional.
Quoted from Gorgar666:Both used Shadow ramps $100+shipping welds not broken. Flaps could be better. Posting soon with pictures.
I don’t think I have ever seen used OEM Shadow ramps that didn’t have broken welds. That is impressive all by itself.
Quoted from data_eastside:Anybody have any recommendations for first mods that will be the best bang for my buck? I was thinking of starting with LEDs
These upgrades are all winners.
Comet LEDs
Titan bands
Aurich translite
Color DMD.
Quoted from matt_adams:That was about my best score before the one time I completed the final battle, then this happened!!
[quoted image]
Unfortunately last year I finally bit the bullet and put remote battery holders on all my games so lost 15 years of scores
If you do that while the game is on you can keep the scores.
Quoted from data_eastside:This looks great... what thickness Lexan did you use? I just ordered 1/8" hoping it's thick enough to hold. Also what is the length of the bracket?
This repair works but is now obsolete. Sonic invented the perfect solution. It is a MRS switch. Reach out to him, you won’t be disappointed.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/150#post-5845305
Quoted from data_eastside:Does anybody have a part number for red plastic piece under the slingshots? I tried to find in the manual and online and couldn't figure it out. Also do most people use washers to protect these b/c I can't imagine they will lost very long taking repeated punishment by the ball[quoted image]
That is just a star post. Very common. All the big boys carry them. They do come in a couple different heights. Measure what you have and order accordingly.
Quoted from ViperTim:But if this works and costs basically nothing (cost me absolutely nothing as I had the stuff for it) then why reinvent the wheel?
As long as it works I’m happy.
Not a dig on you in any way. Most now go with the Sonic solution. Mechanical swiches get skipped when the ball hops over them or cause a ball trap from slow rolling balls. Sonic's solution is bulletproof.
Quoted from ViperTim:I fully understand your point.
But that applies to all mechanical switches on the game and not just one.
There’s always the possibility for mechanical failure and physics interfering in the form of a flying ball or similar.
That’s what makes pinball great
I was just like you. Here is my solution to the problem before I upgraded to Sonic’s MRS sensor. That switch is very important to game play. If I make the shot, I want to make sure it counts. Just wait until you’re have a great game and the made shot doesn’t get recorded.
80F5E9C9-0FF7-49D6-A940-D89FCA88D52F (resized).jpegQuoted from ViperTim:Happened way too many times that it hasn’t registered in a great game
You placed yours way further out than I did mine. Interesting
Well we will see how many mine misses, only places like 30 balls on it and registered them all but nothing is 100% fool proof.
Don’t worry. Sonic has one waiting for you after you do your testing.
Quoted from skuuun:I have Sonic's MRS and it's awesome! I'm now having a problem with the wireform though where the ball will fall off the back in that 5 or 6 inch lateral section where there's no wire guide (right past the old switch location) does this happen to anyone else?
[quoted image]
See that little piece of Velcro on my wire ramp. It takes a little heat off a hot shot and the ball will stay on the exposed part of the wire ramp much better.
A7AE97F6-AC7B-493F-8D8A-363C42ED956D (resized).jpegCongratulations on the new game. It is one of the best games ever made once you get it sorted out. What's going on with the lockbar? It looks like two separate lockbars that have been sandwiched together? Odd to say the least.
Quoted from jonesjb:Has anyone replaced the red gems in their rings?
I've recently bought these: https://www.pinballlife.com/the-shadow-ring-jewel-plastic.html
And I'm trying to figure out how they are supposed to stay in the rings. they don't seem to have a way to snap in. Is it glue. Has anyone else replaced their gems?
Haven’t done it but I would guess it is glued. Most things in the pinball world like that are.
Quoted from EasternBloc:Has anyone attempted to “pearl grip” their 1911 with Tamiya TS-45? Thinking about giving it a go this weekend. It does have a nice pearl like sheen to it.
[quoted image]
It is a great thought but I am doubtful you will be happy with the results. It will likely not take the abuse of being a high contact surface. At the very least it would need clear coated too.
Quoted from Flystoyer:Thank you so much--I did disconnect the J3 of the Opto board and fired it up and this is what messages I am getting. Maybe no power to the board? See the photo of the board with the game powered up. There is a Red Light on the board and is not lit...Supposed to be?
[quoted image][quoted image]
Probably not your issue now but you should replace that cap on your opto board. It causes lots of weird opto issues when it gets far enough out of specs.
Quoted from Flystoyer:Hey -- Thanks for the feedback.. Help with the "Cap" statement how does it create issues..
Thanks in advance... More to come, this is a mission on the 3rd year not in action...
Everyone, thanks for the support and guidance. I am learn so much and having fun!
Optos tied to that board start going off-line or worse. Check out this entry in the Twilight Zone club recently.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/twilight-zone-owners-club/page/255#post-7132258
I replaced all mine, and everyone was out of specifications. Nothing was failed yet, but it was just a matter of time.
Quoted from Squeakman:My metal switching ramps are beat up pretty good. Has anyone used the Mantis replacements? How would you rate them? Mine need major work.
The Mantis ramps are a superior product compared to OEM.
Quoted from Luke_Nukem:The final battle isn't a timed mode.
Not that I get there often but I thought it was timed also. Seems like always drain before time runs out.
Quoted from jonesjb:Are there other issues with the CPR plastic set? Is it the same version seen here at Planetary Pinball? https://www.planetarypinball.com/pinball-31-2002-COMP
That is CPR also. As far as I know, CPR is the only one making plastics for Shadow. What was orange on the OEM plastics is brown on the CPR ones. It is fine if you swap all plastics with the new ones. If you only swap out damaged plastics, it will look funny with the color difference.
Quoted from Iamthelaw:Is the shooter firing twice at start up normal?
Not at all. Sounds like you have something going on there. Time for a closer look.
Quoted from Manny65:Are you able to double check your Shadow, as I've never seen one that hasn't double fired the plunger on power up? What version of code do you have?
It is at my vacation house. Now you have me curious. I will have to confirm.
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:It is at my vacation house. Now you have me curious. I will have to confirm.
Just played my Shadow at my vacation house. It does fire the auto plunger twice at start up. It also centers the kicker on the mini playfield. The centering of the kicker is more noticeable. So much so. I never noticed the auto plunge going on before today.
Quoted from epeabs:I'm sure this is not functional for all. But I would fill it with automotive clear out of a syringe the next time I was clear coating a playfield. I believe others may use some sort of nail polish (Harder than Nails) possibly?
That is what I would do too. Before that I would use a black paint pin and redo the missing key line.
Quoted from Fatsquatch:It’s unfortunate that some donut installed this post (I just removed), but at least the hole left behind is in a black patch of the playfield.
Has anybody elses machine had this done to it?
[quoted image]
That is a pet peeve of mine. I hate it when people do that. I had a BoP that way. It drove me nuts until I did a total restore that included a new playfield.
Quoted from allsportdvd:Well after months of searching I just got an Aurich translite, peeled off the protective film on front and this happened!
Too much to ask for another Aurich run?
There’s a couple hundred dollars down the drain
[quoted image]
Something looks off about that translite. Where did you get it from? Got a full picture you can share? I am kinda thinking the same thing gunstarhero is. This feels like a knock-off.
Quoted from allsportdvd:I purchased it from HEP
Here is a complete picture
[quoted image]
No signature - it is a knock off. Hopefully, HEP disclosed that.
I am glad the translite issue was resolved. I have met Aurich a couple times when picking up product. He is a good guy that does great work. I hate to see the fakes out in the world. That really rubs me the wrong way. Don't hesitate to pull the trigger on the real Arurich Shadow translite. It is an excellent product.
Quoted from Djshakes:Would there be any interest in these if I made a few? It's a switch extender for left ramp. I got check on costs but I think they were around $20 each a few years ago. Hopefully not double now like everything else.
I've been out of pinball for about five years. Was kicking around the idea of getting one game. Shadow was always my favorite. I know I'm gonna wanna go crazy restoring it like my last one so that is the only thing keeping me from pulling the trigger. I put so much work into that game and I won't settle for less.
[quoted image]
I think the preferred fix is just to purchase the MRS switch from Sonic. It is superior to any mechanical switch and better hidden. For the record, I used to make the extender too. I realized it was a lost cause after the MSR switch came out.
Quoted from allsportdvd:Thank you did that and turned out nice!
Really need some help with 2 of the lamp sockets for the rings, part number A-19160-1 pictured below
Anyone have a lead at all?
[quoted image][quoted image]
That part is obsolete and a bad design. Just buy some bright prewired for 5 volt 3mm red Leds. They are all over eBay. Splice them into the factory harness with the OEM connectors or switch to something else. I use the little Comet Pinball Matrix connectors. Hot glue gun the LEDs in place and never worry about it again.
Quoted from allsportdvd:Can you elaborate on that please? Pics or a video? I don’t have a harness as such, my predecessor put wedge bulbs in there
[quoted image]
That's hideous. Your ring lights have been butchered to accommodate the 555 bulbs. Do you have replacement rings? Not necessary but would be a cleaner install.
Buy something like this off of eBay. It is already set up to work on 5v. Hot glue it where the socket would go in the ring and wire it into the OEM power tap for each ring. Add a connector for serviceability and you're done. You can search this thread for more info if needed. It has been discussed a few times.
Screenshot_20231215_221942_Samsung Internet (resized).jpg
Quoted from ViperTim:it’s not a lost cause.
My extender works perfectly fine.
The extenders work, but not as good. The lost cause is trying to sell them. Nobody will purchase them when a better product is available.
Quoted from allsportdvd:Yes I bought new rings - okay I'll look at solutions but I do have 2 original assemblies so would only need to wire in 2 more
I would switch out all four rings with LEDs. That way, everything will look uniform.
Quoted from ramegoom:Poll: Who here would be in for a set of replacement lighting for the 3 rings?
LED stand-alone replacement for the 5 volt glass bulb
Plug and Play!
They will fit right into the tiny little socket that holds the incandescent bulb, and slip right in to the ring with NO modification.
Comments?
Well, there are 4 rings (not 3). Normally, the socket kind of falls apart. That's why people are scrambling for replacements. The heat from the bulb does them in. What you are purposing is fine for games with viable sockets but most need a socket solution. You would also need to add a resistor somewhere because most LEDs can't handle the 5V for extended periods of time. A good selling item would be a replacement led / socket / wire assembly that was plug and play.
Quoted from o-din:Yeah, I've been messing with it on and off in the garage and gave it a real good shot yesterday. I even repined the connectors to the opto board as I did find a flaky one there. When it got dark and the rains came again, I finally quit. Today is another day.
Check the capacitor on the opto board. Things get really funny when that starts to fail.
Quoted from o-din:Well, I only had the larger 100µF electrolyte capacitors in stock and that didn't do it. Are those the ones that usually fail, or should I just bite the bullet and get a new board?
Yeah - it is usually the 100uf capacitor or one of the 3 ICs. The replacement board is cheap. Just buy that it you don't want to mess with replacing the soldered ICs.
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