(Topic ID: 46571)

The Shadow Club

By marsgnu

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 10,922 posts
  • 754 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by Pinkitten
  • Topic is favorited by 279 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

IMG_0136 (resized).jpeg
IMG_5152 (resized).jpeg
IMG_0134 (resized).jpeg
IMG_0517 (resized).jpeg
IMG_0701 (resized).jpeg
IMG_0512 (resized).jpeg
IMG_0513 (resized).jpeg
IMG_1404 (resized).JPEG
IMG_1405 (resized).JPEG
IMG_7706 (resized).jpeg
IMG_7705 (resized).jpeg
IMG_0617 (resized).jpeg
IMG_0618 (resized).jpeg
shadow-repairdone (resized).jpg
IMG_4396 (resized).jpeg
unnamed (resized).jpg

Topic index (key posts)

4 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #73 Insert LED bulbs and colors Posted by MnHotRod (10 years ago)

Post #4322 Alternate Shadow Translite and Speaker Panel Posted by Aurich (6 years ago)

Post #4328 Shadow Manual Rubber Ring Chart link Posted by PinMonk (6 years ago)

Post #7873 The Shadow pistol grip info Posted by RobDutch (3 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider lotr_breath.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

#3167 7 years ago

Hey Guys, I just joined the club over the weekend. Filthy as hell and a multitude of problems but she's cleaning up well and 99% working now. I do have a couple questions.
1. The wall and lock work well, but when it pulls the ball back there is a loud vibration for about 1-2 seconds, almost like a shaker motor. Is this normal?
2. The left metal ramp is broken. The right wall of the metal ramp is just a separate piece. Is this a broken weld or is the ramp repairable? Is this a very common problem on Shadow?

20160924_163947 (resized).jpg20160924_163947 (resized).jpg

20160924_175415 (resized).jpg20160924_175415 (resized).jpg

#3168 7 years ago

Here's a before and after of mode inserts!

20160924_175643 (resized).jpg20160924_175643 (resized).jpg

20160924_180328 (resized).jpg20160924_180328 (resized).jpg

#3172 7 years ago

Thanks for the link!

#3177 7 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Looking for one phurba if anyone knows who sells them. Thx

Send a PM to pinball_customs. He should be able to hook you up!

#3181 7 years ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

I might have an extra ramp. Don't remember what side it was. I can check.

Thanks. I since found out that both ramps have broken welds, just the right one is not as bad as the left.

2 weeks later
#3212 7 years ago

Getting mine all cleaned up and dialed in. Cleaned up pretty good for a players game. Here are a few pics....

20161015_195504 (resized).jpg20161015_195504 (resized).jpg

20161015_195511 (resized).jpg20161015_195511 (resized).jpg

20161015_195516 (resized).jpg20161015_195516 (resized).jpg

20161015_195522 (resized).jpg20161015_195522 (resized).jpg

20161015_195530 (resized).jpg20161015_195530 (resized).jpg

20161015_195542 (resized).jpg20161015_195542 (resized).jpg

20161015_195552 (resized).jpg20161015_195552 (resized).jpg

#3213 7 years ago

Has anyone been able to contact pinball_customs? I sent him $45 for a Phurba set and he's been MIA for about 3 weeks.

#3215 7 years ago

FYI, Brock at pinball_customs got back to me via PM. He's just been very busy as of late.

#3228 7 years ago

That flipper problem could be a problem with the hold winding or the end of stroke switch. Adjust the switch so that it only opens/closes at the very end of the stroke. When checking this, be sure to push the plunger in with a finger pushing on the end of the plunger itself.

To check the hold power, hold the flipper button in and physically push down on the flipper bat. Now compare how that feels to the other working flipper. Do they feel different?

#3236 7 years ago

Does anybody else experience a whole lot of rejected shots to the upkicker for the Battlefield? Mine was rejecting about 50-60% of the time. I played with it a lot and I ended up modifying the large BNOD at the end of that path. What I did was cut about 50% of the material off of it right in the center of it where the ball contacts it. Sorry, I should have taken pictures. Anyway, it's much better now. Now it rejects about 1/6 or 1/7 times.

#3242 7 years ago

Who's afraid of the Shadow.....

1 week later
#3259 7 years ago

Man, Extreme Metal Polish is the shiznit. Took the gun all apart and polished it and it's looking good!

20161109_205439 (resized).jpg20161109_205439 (resized).jpg

20161109_205447 (resized).jpg20161109_205447 (resized).jpg

20161109_205457 (resized).jpg20161109_205457 (resized).jpg

#3261 7 years ago

Bummer. Hopefully with some time and money you can get it all sorted out.

1 week later
#3309 7 years ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

Has anyone been able to contact pinball_customs? I sent him $45 for a Phurba set and he's been MIA for about 3 weeks.

Same situation still. Anyone been able to contact Brock? Sent him money 7 weeks ago for Phurba set and very little communication since then. I'm still hopeful that I'll get these but it's not looking good.

#3312 7 years ago
Quoted from PinFever:

be sure the opto isn't reading the paddle . my paddle was to forward and was kicking numerous times when no ball was present . other than that good luck

Ck the opto in switch test mode. If the opto registers every time the mini playfield has a vibration, the optos could be loose or have a wire coming loose from the solder pad. Another thing to check is this: Raise the mini-playfield(just one thumbscrew) and check the wiring harness near the large connector on the bottom of the mini playfield. It can rub on the metal right there and cut the insulation on one or more wires.

3 weeks later
#3346 7 years ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

Thanks for the info. Looks like the link took me to a five-bank drop target schematic. Same as single drop, then? Just trying to figure out why my Battlefield target isnt popping back up. I haven't dug into it yet, was looking for a good pic to compare to when I do this weekend. I found a stretched out spring in the bottom of cabinet and thought maybe that was the issue.? Your help is appreciated.

I would not need a diagram to troubleshoot this I don't think. Switch matrix chart, maybe. Ck in coil test menu and see if the coil is energizing. If it is not then there you go. If it is then ck the switches on the mech in the switch test menu to see if the game doesn't realize the target is up/down. Of course, cleaning the mech and making sure everything is working smoothly is also a good idea.

#3382 7 years ago
Quoted from superolav:

Hello
I am searching for micro switches for the "lock area" in The Shadow.
The manual says : 55647-12073-32, 55647-12073-33 and 55647-12073-34.
Does anybody know where i can find it? or something similar to the originals?
Best regards
OH

This appears to be the correct switch. I just had that section all apart about 5 times so it is still fresh on my mind.

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1994

FYI, I had a pesky lock problem with the third ball lock. It was intermittent. No amount of tweaking or adjusting the switches would solve my problem. I found the fix. The metal ball guide that forms the upper side of the chute for the lock needed adjustment. I had to remove the large orange plastic above the lock, loosen the screw for the ball guide, and while pushing the guide downward toward the lock switches, re-tighten the screw. Works perfectly now.

#3398 7 years ago
Quoted from soapblox:

Seems you could probably hack some wires off the high power as it is being sent to the upper play field flipper--just need to verify the power only comes when the machine thinks the ball is up there. Tap in to the high power line, through a resistor, through some LEDS, and back through the ground?
Another thought, and I'm no electrical engineer, but couldn't you use a transistor?
If the high power is running to the upper play field, the transistor would let the GI current flow through to the lights on the upper play field.

I think it was already mentioned that it won't be that easy. If I understand correctly, when the paddle is moved in one direction +12vdc is applied. When it moves in the other direction -12vdc is applied.

1 month later
#3451 7 years ago

Does anyone have problems with an inconsistent ball launcher, and does anyone know what to do to fix it? Mine is failing to shoot the ball from the shooter lane all the way up the wireform about 10-20% of the time. I tried a new coil sleeve and new plunger assy. It seemed to get better for a while but that may have been my imagination. It does look as though the plunger is striking the center of the ball as it sits in the shooter lane. This especially sucks when you get into MB. Any thoughts?

#3454 7 years ago
Quoted from Bwilson:

AE 23-800 for the coil? I know... dumb question but I figured I would ask.

I will double check the coil. Funny that I just assumed it had the correct one in there.

#3456 7 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

I would check the plunger tip as well. Make sure it is not coming apart and causing inconsistent hits.

It's brand new.

#3462 7 years ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

Does anyone have problems with an inconsistent ball launcher, and does anyone know what to do to fix it? Mine is failing to shoot the ball from the shooter lane all the way up the wireform about 10-20% of the time. I tried a new coil sleeve and new plunger assy. It seemed to get better for a while but that may have been my imagination. It does look as though the plunger is striking the center of the ball as it sits in the shooter lane. This especially sucks when you get into MB. Any thoughts?

Just wanted to feedback and say I got it fixed. I did two things and not sure which one fixed it but it works 100% now. The solder connections to the coil looked a little sketchy so I cut, stripped, and re-soldered the wires to the coil. Also the plunger was striking the ball very slightly below center. The way I corrected this was to put a washer between the coil bracket and playfield at both of the two screw locations to raise the whole plunger assy up slightly. Works great now!

#3486 7 years ago

Why not incorporate a small pot instead of a fixed resister so you could adjust the delay to your liking. Might be worth the extra cost?

2 weeks later
#3557 7 years ago
Quoted from superolav:

Hi
Anyone "who knows" what part nr the plunger and or plunger tip in The Shadow?

Williams/Bally Bell Armature (Plunger) Assembly A-6306-2

Pinballlife has them for $6.00

3 weeks later
#3664 7 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

The backing doesn't make much of a difference, I tried. You need the reinforced targets to solve the problem.

Or you can solve this problem on the cheap like I did. Just stuff a small(3/8 or 7/16) rubber ring behind the target down into the square hole in the playfield. Gives it just the right lean forward and after 100's of plays they have not moved.

3 weeks later
#3716 6 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

Alright, so I have a ball lock issue that I'm hoping folks can help me with. Before diving in, my machine has the magnet flush with the playfield like a stern so I can see the ball physically lock onto the magnet.

Can you post a picture of this? I can't help but think this is part of the issue, since the game was not designed like this.

2 weeks later
#3776 6 years ago

Could be a ribbon cable. Could also be a fuse for 12vdc causing opto error messages. You said you reseated connectors. Did you reseat ribbon cables? Make certain they are not off by 1 pin either direction.

2 months later
#3940 6 years ago
Quoted from practicalsteve:

I'm having trouble with the switch on the lower left ramp when the ball goes to the right side. It doesn't register 100% of the time. I have replaced the switch itself, adjusted numerous times.
Also the ball occasionally gets hung up there if the shot to it is a soft shot.
I feel like I read at one point someone suggested using a different switch arm then the one that came installed.
Any help?

Either one of these should work. All Shadows have this problem. I need to do this mod as well!

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=379

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=380

#3969 6 years ago

For me, hitting ramps and going for Vengeance is usually when I score the least. My best scoring games are when I play a lot of modes, cash in a bunch of loop combos, and play multiballs(Khan is usually worth more than the main MB). I used to love going for the Battlefield but at least on mine, the exit off the Battlefield just puts the ball WAY out of control and usually leads to a drain. I've had mine for about 9 months and have only made it to Final Battle twice. Didn't even come close to finishing it. Love the game though!

4 months later
#4312 6 years ago

I bought some #7268 bulbs since one was burned out. After taking the ring all apart I found out that the bulbs are socketed! Just pull them straight out and stick a new one in.

2 weeks later
#4360 6 years ago
Quoted from TimMitchell:

My left lane diverter is acting up. It sometimes doesn't work move, sometimes it gets stuck in the middle, and sometimes the ball moves the diverter.
Any thoughts?

Set screw loose? Spring came off?

2 weeks later
#4378 6 years ago
Quoted from xsonics2k2:

What replacement switch do owners use for the switch located on the left ramp when the ball diverts to the right?
Both Shadows I've owned only register a shot to the right 75-95% of the time. The factory switch has to be adjusted just right in order to register a fast moving ball, but if the switch is angled too much, a slow moving ball will get hung up. It seems that a very thin switch that sticks up higher would do the trick? If so, what switch is the best?
Thanks,
Brad

this is the one I used

https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=379

4 months later
#4578 5 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

Created a tech thread about my shadow resetting when you start a new game then push the right flipper button. Link below. Any ideas from fellow owners? Thanks! Craig
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/shadow-resets-when-right-flipper-button-pushed#post-4385136

Could be a low 5 volts. Another thing to check would be the diodes on the right flipper coil. Does it ever do it with the left flipper?

3 weeks later
#4604 5 years ago
Quoted from dawasa:

Any suggestions on how to fix/repair the diverter shaft where the set screw clamps to the shaft? Over time, the set screw moves out of place causing the diverter to have to be re-set. The set screw needs a more solid area to clamp into.

I would have no idea how to repair the shaft. But you could try a brand new set screw and a dab of loctite.

#4618 5 years ago
Quoted from gjm7777:

Anyone ever have an issue where the shadow multiball doesnt activate unless you nudge the ball forward? I bent the switches a bit more to ensure the balls cant backslide and it seems to help some in that tight area. Im at 6.5 pitch.

Yes. After adjusting the switches made it better, I still had the issue every so often. I bent the ball guides in slightly making the "channel" narrower. Have not had an issue since.

1 month later
#4731 5 years ago
Quoted from Pesmerga:

Hello guys! I'm having intermittent issues with the main ball shooter..it seems that the shot it's too weak to make all the ramp. I have adjusted it several times, adjusted the position of the ball in the lane, centering the plunger, aligning the ramp entrance..after these changes it seems to work for a while (10-20 plays) but then here we go again..have anyone else had this kind of issue on this pin? is There really a right alignment? Do I have to pay attention to something in particular? The coil is the original one from manual, do I have to buy a stronger one? I have shopped the entire game and now I'm stuck on this stupid thing.. really frustrating!

I had this exact same problem. Adjusted it till I was blue in the face. It worked better when the plunger was intentionally adjusted to NOT be straight with the ball. Right before I sold it I got a friend to help me with it. He got it perfect. We angled the plunger to the right, and we had to SHORTEN the length of the stroke of the plunger. We did this by taking a 5/16 or 7/16 rubber ring and zip tie and attaching it to the rubber bumper that the plunger rests on. It has a hole in it perfect for feeding the zip tie through. It didn't make sense why it worked, but it did work. It was in a Papa tournament and it worked very well all 3 days.

#4738 5 years ago

Sorry, I do not and I no longer have the game. Good luck, you'll get it sorted out.

2 months later
#4911 5 years ago
Quoted from Pingball:

For your viewing pleasure

After watching this, I think your game may have the wrong coil on the upkicker. It should be AE-25-1000.

1 month later
#5046 5 years ago

There is a magnet in Shadow. The ball lock.

#5058 5 years ago
Quoted from Scoot:

I tried to clean up the mess on the opto boards and now it is messing up every game. You sir, have a shiny new dime!

Here's what you need...

https://www.pinballlife.com/trough-opto-transmitter-receiver-board-set-6-ball-for-williamsbally-pinball-machines.html

#5075 5 years ago

That looks modified to me. I no longer own Shadow, but I recall those being small set screws. Maybe someone modified the shaft to work with those larger type screws?

1 month later
#5197 5 years ago

IDC....should stand for I don't Care!

#5221 5 years ago
Quoted from pacman11:

Are those led?

No, those are the same as OEM.

2 weeks later
#5263 5 years ago
Quoted from RockBass14:

Hi Guys, new Shadow owner here. Love it as always! It needs some adjustments, the switch on the left ramp when it diverts the ball to the right, that little wire switch is an issue. If it's not out far enough, it doesn't register the ball going through. When I adjust it outward, it's prone to getting stuck. Would you recommend I try a different switch type (not of the wire variety)? Photo is attached.
Also, the individual I bought this from put some spotlights in the battlefield. Unfortunately the "lamp shades"get pushed down by the glass. The shades then stick down far enough into the battlefield that the ball hits is. Again, photo attached. I had to remove the shades, and am stuck with just plain old ugly LEDs. Are there lower profile spotlight shades out there?
Nothing is stopping gameplay, it's all good, just fine tuning and wondering if you had any ideas.
Thanks!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

It's a problem common to all Shadows, although yours doesn't appear to be stock. You need this one with the 4" actuator from Pinballlife
https://www.pinballlife.com/sub-microswitch-with-4-straight-wire-actuator.html

#5265 5 years ago

There's lots of info somewhere in this thread. There might even be a separate thread about it. I did it to mine before I sold it. You put the 4" one in and do not bend the actuator. You only need to adjust the switch normally by loosening/tightening the screws. It makes the shot go from like 75% true to 100%.

#5304 5 years ago

I had a different but similar problem with my Shadow when I first got it. Remove the thumbscrew and raise up the mini playfield. Very closely inspect the bundle of wires that go towards the back. They can rest on a metal plate and movement and vibrations can cause the insulation on the wires to get skinned off. I had 3 wires skinned and they were intermittently touching the metal and causing some weird opto issues.

1 week later
#5344 5 years ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

Thanks, it'll last. I put flipper rubber in place of the foam. I always do that and it eliminates 90% of the airballs. The flippers are too strong for that close of a shot. That target takes a beating.

But it's not the foam area he's talking about. I had to put rubber between the actual hole in the playfield and the back of the switch bracket. That completely eliminated airballs and my flippers were very strong, freshly rebuilt.

#5380 5 years ago
Quoted from bwill:

Question for all of you here...
I am considering the Shadow as my first pin. I'm not afraid of maintenance and repair, but it will likely be my only pin (for at least a while) and I'm curious to how everyone feels about the relative amount of work that this machine would need relative to others of a similar age/price-range. I was really wanting a Star Trek: The Next Generation, but warned that it could be a headache to upkeep.
So, would you consider this a good pin for a newbie?

Short answer, no. While games like ST:TNG and TZ are very well known to be difficult to keep working, The Shadow can be difficult. Also, certain parts pertaining to the diverters are unobtainable. A seasoned collector who has no problem troubleshooting and repairing issues will find the Shadow to be fairly straight forward. But I would not recommend it to someone as their first pin. Get a solid state game that has already been bulletproofed, or a used Stern from the last 10-15 years.

#5381 5 years ago

Forgot to list the potential trouble spots. The magnet lock/wall target. The diverters. The Battlefield. To a lesser degree, the actual ball lock area. Also the ball launch can be difficult to get dialed in.

4 months later
#5961 4 years ago
Quoted from Wmsfan-GAP:

Looks like a 1 watt resistor instead of a 1/4 watt (or whatever is supposed to go in). if the resistor value is correct, it may not be an issue, just ugly.

Plus, the resistor above that one appears to be the wrong value. All others in that area are 2.7k ohms. That one is a 2.2k ohm, a difference of 500 ohms.

1 month later
#6217 4 years ago
Quoted from Wmsfan-GAP:

Tech question-
Just noticed today an issue- and I'm not sure how long its been present-
When I launch the ball, if I press the right Phurba button, game goes to 'wait ball saved' and kicks out another ball.
When I press the button after ball save timer is over, it switches the right phurba diverter, but it also increases the bonus multiplier by 1.
Is that because of a diode that's gone bad? What do I need to look for?

Switch matrix issue. You'll notice all those switches are in the same column. Look for a broken diode, or a diode installed backwards, on all those switches. You might want to open up the gun to look at the trigger switch first.

shadow switch matrix (resized).JPGshadow switch matrix (resized).JPG
4 months later
#6568 4 years ago
Quoted from pacman11:

On my Shadow all the head lights in the back box are out. I don’t have a manual just wondered what connector is responsible for these lights? Not seeing any burnt connectors either..
I checked all the GI fuses and they are good.

You can download the manual for free. You can just save the PDF or even print a hard copy. You'll need it eventually.

https://www.ipdb.org/files/2528/Manual_Bally_1994_The_Shadow.pdf

2 months later
#6920 4 years ago
Quoted from SNES:

Alright, so quarantine is giving me some free time to work on a few issues I’m having and I’m hoping someone may be able to help.
1. Battlefield has half of the lights out. I replaced bulbs and sockets, still not working. Not sure where to begin with this.
2. Upper flipper flips twice real quick when the button is pushed and then falls back to starting position. Thinking the hold wire from what I’ve read, but everything looks to be wired in well. Not sure.
3. Sanctum not working right. The ball hits the opto and the magnet holds it, but the wall doesn’t come down. It doesn’t register the lock until the next players turn. Odd. I replaced the coil that fires the pin to let the wall down.
Thanks everyone! May just start a new thread, but figured I would try here first. Appreciate any help! Trying to get this to playing 100%

1. Raise the battlefield and check the wire bundle. There is a metal plate that the wires can rub on creating cuts or breaks in the wires.
2. Probably the hold winding on the coil. Usually the only way to fix that is to replace the coil.
3. Could be a lot of things but do a search in this thread. This is a common problem area.

1 week later
#6980 3 years ago
Quoted from Flystoyer:

Hi Yellowghost and Mad Dog and or others, thanks for the guidance and support. I trust you are all well, healthy and safe...
I finally had a chance to upload a "Youtube" video of the switch test to show the craziness. My story to catch up, is that was inspired to install an LED upgrade. Game was playing well into about 60% of the LED swap out near the back end of the playfield and the mini. After completed, game will not boot up into game mode. Messages are "Ground short"-many switches in the test are not working.. Here is a "YouTube" video and some photos.

I hope I did not damage a board!!
Anyone with help and guidance to this troubling messages..What is a Ground Short and where do I start?
BTW--Since I have been on this support, I have sold a game, fixed two others and many more.. Love the help and support..[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

What on earth is going on with that connector near J121? Is that white/yellow? Looks like a hack job. May or may not be related to your issue.

#6991 3 years ago

J120 pin10 shows signs of burning. Still, I don't think that's your problem. As someone else said, you probably bent a lug somewhere under the playfield when swapping out the bulbs. Check all switches in row 4 very closely.

1 week later
#7037 3 years ago

OK, did you check continuity from the pin on the board to each and every lamp in that column? Or from each lamp to the next lamp?

#7041 3 years ago

OK, I once had a similar issue and it was a shorted bulb. Do you have LED's or regular bulbs? One thing you can try is remove every bulb from the sockets in that column. Then put them back in one at a time, testing after each add. It's not a common issue but worth a try.

4 months later
#7391 3 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

I was having some really good games on shadow and then the battlefield up kicker stopped working. It would go to ball search in order to have to get the ball out.
The switch seemed to not be clicking at the right spot when the ball rests in the ball popper cup. I fixed that, reinstalled the mech. Still no kick.
I put a ball in there and it was indeed clicking when in the cup. Hmmm..
Switch test says "mini kicker" is closed. I cant get it to say otherwise when I activate the switch/cup.
Bad switch? Bad diode?
My only thought is that if the switch was registering as closed, wouldnt it fire the up kicker over and over thinking there was a ball there?
Any input is appreciated. I dont want to buy a new switch if its something easy I can do here with what I have in hand. I have some diodes, etc.

The Mini Kicker is sw 36 and is the long range opto right in front of the yellow battlefield kicker. It seems like the sw you are referring to is sw 68, popper

shadow sw matrix (resized).JPGshadow sw matrix (resized).JPG
1 month later
#7496 3 years ago
Quoted from aFineMoose:

What do you guys think: if I was to only have two machines, what is the perfect compliment to the Shadow?

Something with pop bumpers.

#7498 3 years ago
Quoted from aFineMoose:

Is there another common feature lacking on The Shadow? It has so much going on, but you can't have everything.

Not super common, but it lacks a 3rd or 4th flipper.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 78.50
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Pinball Haus
Shooter rods
$ 5.00
Playfield - Protection
UpKick Pinball
Protection
$ 37.50
Boards
Pinball Haus
Boards
$ 95.00
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
Pinball Mod Co.
Sound/Speakers
5,250
€ 38.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
PPmods
Toys/Add-ons
5,200
Machine - For Sale
Buffalo, NY
$ 43.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Pinball Mod Co.
Toys/Add-ons
$ 285.99
Cabinet - Other
PinSound
Other
$ 399.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
Led
$ 58.00
Lighting - Interactive
Pinball Mod Co.
Interactive
$ 30.00
Playfield - Other
YouBentMyWookie
Other
$ 5.95
Playfield - Protection
The Pinball Scientist
Protection
$ 259.99
Cabinet - Toppers
Lighted Pinball Mods
Toppers
$ 49.99
Cabinet - Toppers
Lighted Pinball Mods
Toppers
$ 12.00
Tools
Nezzy's Pinball Prints
Tools
$ 299.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
Led
$ 15.00
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
Gweem's Mods
Sound/Speakers
6,895 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Denver, CO
$ 329.99
Lighting - Other
Lighted Pinball Mods
Other
€ 8.50
Flipper Parts
Pin-Decals
Flipper parts
5,300 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Uniontown, OH
$ 54.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
Eproms
From: $ 649.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
Led
$ 199.95
Electronics
PinSound
Electronics
$ 109.95
Electronics
PinSound
Electronics
$ 219.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Lit Frames
Decorations
€ 47.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
PPmods
Toys/Add-ons
$ 16.00
Playfield - Other
Slap Save Creations
Other
€ 47.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
PPmods
Toys/Add-ons

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider lotr_breath.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club?tu=lotr_breath and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.