Anyone have the plastic for the front of the battlefield? mine is cracked. Thx
(Topic ID: 46571)
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Shadow, The
Bally, 1994
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Picked up a shadow yesterday and have been doing a little work to it. First thing was to fix the switch on the right crossover ramp, it wasn’t registering on fast shots. I understand it’s common. My fix was to put a washer under the mounting screw on the right side of the switch. This tilted the switch up slightly and solved the issue. Hope it helps.
Separately, is there a way to tighten up the arm of the battlefield mech, it has just a little side to side wobble, not sure if that’s normal.
Colordmd went in today, will add leds next, new cabinet decals for the head and a few other things.
D2203E00-A5F9-4448-84B4-4857732016FF (resized).jpeg
Having an issue with my game. When the ball leaves the battlefield, the kicker is still moving with the flippers. It's like the game doesn't know the ball has exited. Is there a switch or opto somewhere to check this?
It is throwing the error ER battle kicker opto. Not sure where that is.
Quoted from yellowghost:Is it kicking as well?
At times it's kicking..other times just moving back and forth.
I will say this happened right after I put warm white LEDs in the game..is it possible there is too much light in the area around the battle playfield?
Edit: put incandescent back in, no change.
Quoted from gunstarhero:I don’t think the game really knows you're off the Battleground until you hit a switch on the lower PF.
All switches register in game mode.
The optos on the top of the pf I believe don't have anything to do with the issue as they just tell the kicker to kick when the ball breaks that beam.
Quoted from gunstarhero:Check the wires to the long opto across the battleground, I bet ones loose.
You mean the ones on the top of the battlefield to the right and left of the yellow kicker? I'll check, but Not sure why that would cause the kicker to remain active with the flipper buttons when the ball leaves the playfield.
Quoted from gunstarhero:The fact that it’s kicking once in a while makes me suspect it could be maybe an intermittent connection. As far as I know the kicker only kicks when the beam breaks.
Makes sense. Bigger issue is why the game thinks a ball is still on the battlefield when it's not. I'm not understanding the logic of the game and what causes the game know the ball has left the battlefield.
Quoted from woody76:It is your battlefield optos. When the ball completely breaks the beam the kicker resets and battlefield closes down. Has nothing to do with lower playfield switches.
On a side note: the first shadow I ever had started having problems when i did a full led job. Did you put all LEDs in the backbox behind trans light? The light was interfering with my battlefield optos. I took out half the blackbox LEDs and it fixed it.
Thanks, the kicker resets once a main playfield switch is hit, not when it falls down and breaks the beam. In test mode, the optos work as they should. Why during game play are the optos not sensing the ball has fallen off the battlefield? I checked the connections and reseated the wires on the opto board, no change.
I will have access to another shadow tomorrow and can try my opto board in that game to rule out a board issue.
Quoted from Djshakes:You don't have an issue. As stated above and in your other thread, the ball sometimes gets hung up under the battlefield and you need to free it. My game doesn't shut off until you hit a lower switch or the battlefield opto has been broken in a certain amount of time.
If you are experiencing random kicking it is the board under the main playfield I mentioned.
Your game sounds fine.
It’s not getting hung up under the battlefield. It exits fine and the behavior is different than it was. Before, as soon as it left the battlefield, the flippers no longer controlled the kicker and the kicker reset. Now, the ball is exiting and it’s not immediately resetting until a switch is hit. Maybe it is normal, just seems odd to have seemingly changed.
Quoted from Stuieb84:I recognize that it's not to everyone's taste, but I recently got back powdercoated legs and rails. I had expected it to be a bluer purple, but still happy with it. I think it will go well with purple under cabinet lights, purple flashers and purple mode select insert leds.
Finished so far:
* strip, patch and paint cabinet
* repaint coin mechanism
* comet leds
* titan rubbers
* new vinyl apply
* new buttons
* cityscape backdrop sticker
* cityscape pinblades
* black nickel plated gun mechanism
* wood grips
* repainted mongols and daggers
Still to go:
*install pin stadium
* install pinsound
Install new speakers
* install aurich translight
* install purple under cabinet lights
* install colour did
* install and swap to new playfield
* polish ramps
* new stickers for diverters
* plating of rails
* install backlighting for speaker panel
* capacitor replace circuit boards[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I don’t know about that powder color, doesn’t match anything on the game and looks out of place.
Where did you get the cabinet decals? I need a front decal.
Quoted from allsportdvd:Thanks to twister I have my Shadow Battlefield plastic mod! The black chrome looks nice and even though it’s a tighter fit than the original it’s much more attractive[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
That looks great!
Quoted from flipordie:Just got my shadow
has anyone experienced switches going off battlefield when it's moving back and forth? looks like 2 switches are being pushed?
Check here, https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/shadow-battle-field-issue
Quoted from Johncare07:I did a test of the playfield and got this screen. The manual doesn’t have any guidance for the error. Any thoughts?
I will check the opto[quoted image]
As noted, check your opto board under the mini pf. Once you lift the mini pf, put the game in switch test mode and slide a piece of paper through the optos to see if they register.
Installed the cityscape backboard decal from @brewninja, came out great...added some ice blue backboard lighting to highlight it more. No need to remove the backboard, just remove the flasher covers and the two screws holding the battlefield exit ramp and you have a clean slate to work with. I used a little dawn a water to help with positioning.
MVIMG_20190713_163622 (resized).jpgMVIMG_20190713_163657 (resized).jpgQuoted from Chitownpinball:jonesjb makes the official one as far as im concerned.
Link?
Quoted from pinballjah:Thanks for the response. I found the ball in the sanctum area. Must have been up there when I turned off the game initially. Surprised it didn’t get kicked out when I turned the game on? I will start with checking all the fuses for sure. Got a new error message about the gun trigger.
Does anyone know which fuse controls the ball ejection mechanism? Thanks for your help.
Check the manual, I think it’s the back of section 2, might be F111/112 or one of the others on that bank.
1 month later
Quoted from Chitownpinball:Lets wait 6 months and see how your shadow holds up.
The shaker has a low rumble and the intensity is adjustable with a dial. I have one in my wh20 and tspp and it's nothing like you feel with the stern shakers, which can be violent. I don't think it will cause any issues.
1 month later
Quoted from Jakers:I joined the club last weekend. Great gameplay with the only exception being that hard shots to the left ramp (diverted right) tend to skip the switch or fly off the wireform. Any tips on getting the ball to calm down when entering that area?[quoted image]
Bend the end of the switch out a little and it should help with registering the shot. It's a common issue, the switch is basically mounted too low on the wireforms.
anyone have a template they used for the plastic to relocate the ramp switch? I can 3d print them in a transparent filament. I'd be willing to make them available on pinside at cost+shipping, around $10 total I'd imagine, but wouldn't know until I can figure out print time. If not, I can try to design one.
Quoted from joelbob:PLEASE DO THIS! THANKS!
Quoted from Wmsfan-GAP:I'd buy one!
I'll get working on this after Expo next week (maybe this weekend if I can find some time). I will offer it via an ad in my pinside shop so pinside gets some money too. I'll post back in this thread when I start making progress. No lists!
Quoted from Djshakes:I don't think there is a template. In fact, I think I'm the only one that does this unless others have copied my design from earlier posts. I just cut a piece of scrap acrylic and drill it. If you make one how about sending me a couple for coming up with the design? If they are laser cut they might look better than my prototypes. I never made them like my airball mods because I didn't think people would want them. Might be a hot item. I recommend adding the long switch blade as well. I'm still waiting for mine to come in the mail.
What’s your design? I only saw the one rotordave showed, it’s really hard to see exactly what he did so I’m kind of flying blind. If you want to share your design (you can pm me if you want) I’m happy to send you one or two for free. My 11 year old is learning design and 3D printing so I’m going to let him try to make it, he will keep whatever net proceeds he earns.
Ok, everyone, the bracket to relocate the left ramp switch is finished. I tested it in my game and it worked every time! The mounting holes are slightly elongated to allow for movement/adjustment of the switch for a precise fit, but I got it working on the first install with no adjustment needed. We also added a hole to ziptie the wire to the bracket. Ziptie is included. I'm also including two mounting screws and nuts to mount the switch to the bracket. Use your existing switch screws to mount the bracket to the ramp. It's nearly invisible from the players view.
Price is $13 shipped and it's now available in our pinside shop. Let me know if you have any questions.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1016-lermods/02959-shadow-left-ramp-switch-bracket
IMG_20191015_183921 (resized).jpgIMG_20191015_184453 (resized).jpgIMG_20191015_183931 (resized).jpgIMG_20191015_184237 (resized).jpg
Quoted from Wmsfan-GAP:Can you slip one in your suitcase for Expo pick-up?
Sure can, we will have a few on hand there.
1 week later
We've still got plenty of switch brackets, $13 shipped in our pinside shop. Sold several at expo over the weekend. 100% fix for a frustrating issue.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1016-lermods/02959-shadow-left-ramp-switch-bracket
Quoted from pinballjah:What is the issue? In case it comes up. Thanks.
The ball flys too fast (and too high) past the switch and the switch doesn’t register consistently. With this kind of a mod, the switch is placed further down the ramp so the ball is more settled and slower by the time it gets to the switch.
4 weeks later
We've got the switch extenders too, $12 shipped. Yeah, it's not engraved, but these are not really visible from the players perspective and it works 100% of the time. Nice to have choices, buy whichever you like, but I would bet if you don't have an extender and have the switch in the stock position, you are not registering shots every time, it's not a great design to put the switch there. So get one of them.
https://lermods.com/shop?olsPage=products%2Fshadow-left-ramp-switch-bracket
Quoted from jawjaw:I'm guessing each game is a little different. Mine does not have a big problem with a long switch arm. It did have to spend some time adjusting it to get it right, though. My question is does this switch extension block your view? It seems like you are moving the switch right in the middle so you are looking right at it as a player.
I don’t think it really blocks any view, see pic of ours installed. You really have to look closely to see that it’s there.
D2C0D758-F9D5-4430-B74E-AA2DCCD26058 (resized).jpegQuoted from KnockerPTSD:The lower one is nice but I didnt understand when the upper one was first posted for sale. It looks like it's DIY and made out of scraps.
I had issues with this switch but after a lot of adjusting it is 100% accurate with maybe one ball hang up per 1000 plays.
Ours was offered prior to the engraved one being offered, check the thread history. But that doesn't really matter, either it seems will solve the underlying problem and both are barely visible during gameplay, and that's what matters most.
Ours is not made out of scraps, it's 3d printed using transparent PLA and was designed by us. It's just the infill you see. It prints in about 40 mins. I'm not going to design it to print for 3 hours and charge $13 shipped. We only are making it to help people fix the issue for a very small nominal fee...but thanks for your criticism, great motivation for wanting to be helpful. 
Again, it's pretty much invisible and serves it's functional purpose. We elongated the holes for adjustments to be made on both ends and added a hole to secure the wire with a ziptie. We didn't see anyone offering these so we decided to come up with our own. For $13 shipped, how can you go wrong as it 100% fixes the issue.
1 week later
Quoted from flipordie:Tech question.
When the ball goes into the upper playfield, and then leaves the upper playfield stays active, if i push the flipper buttons it can be active for a long time. it looks like a a switch 73 is triggering if i push the left or right flipper buttons.
Any thoughts?
Your opto board is likely toast, very common. You also hear the upper playfield music continuing correct? What's supposed to happen is when the ball leaves the upper playfield, the mode is supposed to end, sensing that nothing has been hit in X number of seconds. Your game is not recognizing that nothing has been hit so it continues the upper playfield. Do you also get any switch/opto errors sometimes? I tried resoldering the old board, redoing the connectors, resoldering wires under the upper playfield and the optos themselves and nothing worked.
Pinball life or marco, forget where I got mine, sells the new board, it's pricey at like $89, but fixes the issue and is more robust. I haven't had a single issue since replacing it.
Quoted from Djshakes:It's not a flawed solution. It is the best solution. People didn't start building these just because. I too had the switch extender, the issue is a very weak shot that barely makes the ramp doesn't have the momentum to roll past the switch, it hits it, rolls back and stops at the ramp. You have to that keep hitting the diverter button in hopes to get the ball rolling but that often won't work as the diverter doesn't hit the ball directly. It sort of just pushes it like you were slapping the side of the cab and rarely works. You then have to pull the glass. With the switch further down the line the ball has enough momentum to get passed the switch as long as you have it properly adjusted. Trust me, I wish you didn't have to have the extender and I'm sure every game is different but the three shadows I had all had this issue.
No offense, but your solution is the worst of the three because you switch isn't extended as long as the one you can buy and it doesn't even clear the wireform. With a enough momentum the ball rides up the ramp and up on the top of the wire form and launches clear over the switch. Especially if you have strong flippers. I noticed with the mantis ramps this is even more prevalent because I believe they are tad steeper. At least the ones I had were and I switched back to the originals and it remedied a lot of the ball flight issue.
agree with this. I installed my switch extender, not the switch arm, and it works 100% of the time and is nearly invisible when playing. Not sure why it would be considered flawed. As for the switch arm extender, it is more visible and looks a bit odd. the original design is horrible, its just too close to where the ball makes the sharp and fast turn. All that matters really is what solution works for the individual. If the switch actuator extender works 100% of the time and people are happy with that solution, that's what you are after. I am very happy with my switch extender as it works 100% of the time and not having that switch register was a huge frustration. for $12 and 5 minutes with nothing more than a small screwdriver, you really can't go wrong with the extender.
https://lermods.com/shop?olsPage=products%2Fshadow-left-ramp-switch-bracket
1 week later
Quoted from ramegoom:Simple mod for a common failure:
When the ramp welds broke, it occurred to me that a little more support would strengthen the piece, and prevent the welds from breaking. Here is the original plastic:
[quoted image]
A little brainstorming, I came up with this one:
[quoted image]
Simple add-on, but now there are two mounting holes utilized on each side. Keeps the broken ramp together, and prevents the new ramp from breaking. It did the trick.
[quoted image]
Maybe extend it a little to help with airballs off the targets.
2 weeks later
2 weeks later
1 week later
It’s a button washer.
The Hillman Group 2906 Number-8 Stainless Steel Finish Washer, 40-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HYLZZMQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_TEJjEbKSZ23W3
Quoted from woody76:I am trying to find these silver washer things, anyone know a source? or what they are called?[quoted image]
1 month later
Quoted from Elicash:Guys, still looking for a lead on quality original backbox decals. Lemme know thanks.
If you can find a set, I'll take the front decal. Nobody seems to have cabinet decals for this game. I have side decals for the head, but I need them.
4 weeks later
Been putting off redoing my head decals for a long time, but being home and with time on my hands...
...I think I got them off eBay at some point, they look good and much better then the ripped ones I had on there. I just need to find a front cabinet decal, impossible to find it seems.
IMG_20200322_093610 (resized).jpgIMG_20200322_093636 (resized).jpg
1 week later
Quoted from mrgregb123:Have had my Shadow for a few weeks now, fully restored it and in doing so discovered all the weird quirks (and fixes for them). Hope this helps some people.......
BATTLEFIELD KICKER LEANING SIDE-TO-SIDE
Grab a pair of pliers. See the fork that the kicker arm sits in between? Squeeze the two sides together so that the kicker arm barely fits in it. In fact, even if you close it a tad too much and it sits on it but doesn't go through all the way, you're fine. The kicking action will wedge it back into place in a few games. But it won't lean - straight as an arrow. Please guys, fix yours....everyone that posts pics of their game seems to have this issue. 5 minute fix.
LEFT RAMP DOESN'T REGISTER ON RIGHT SIDE
There are a couple of solutions for this. One is the switch extender that Lermods sells. I bought this. Not quite it. No offense to those guys but it's clearly visible - the plastic isn't even clear, and moves the switch much further away than needed. I guess there's also some switch extender available, but I've never seen it. My solution was simple - get a shooter lane switch, which are usually pretty lengthy, and stretch it out and bend it up so it covers both fast shots and regular shots. I've attached a couple of pics. It's virtually invisible and registers 95% of the time.
BALLS NOT REGISTERING IN THE SANCTUM WHEN THROWN IN BY MAGNET
Over time, the balls get magnetized. If your magnet throw is weak, the ball won't fly around the bend fast enough and will hang up on the first of the three switches in the sanctum area. Magnetism exacerbates this issue. Change the balls, first. Next, carefully adjust the switches so they are not protruding as much through the playfield, but still register when you move your finger over it. With less force required, the ball should go through fine, even with reduced throw from the magnet.
SLOW/STICKY BATTLEFIELD DROP TARGETS
Take out the target bracket and remove the targets. Throw them in an ultrasonic if you got one. The bracket itself can also go in there. Alternatively, you can clean as much grease off as possible and then throw it into a vibratory tumbler overnight. But as long as you can clean it good with some 90% isopropyl or your weapon of choice, you're good. Now add car wax (paste recommended vs. liquid) to the targets where they meet the bracket, and the bracket itself. Boom, targets that go down fast AF.
SANCTUM BRICK TARGET GETTING STUCK DOWN
If the set screw that determines how high the drop target rests is too low, it will jam the kicker arm and won't go up. Then the game marks it bad. To fix this, first set the screw so the target is as high as possible when down, without going over the lip of the wood behind it. Now, use needle nose pliers to squash the thin metal protector at the bottom of the brick drop target (yours may be missing, it's common) so it's not pointy and more flat. Lastly, if you have it put a drop of LPS 1 on that metal kicker arm where it meets the drop target. Shouldn't ever happen again.
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thanks, these are great tips. On the switch extender, since you mention us, thought I'd respond (and no offense taken, feedback is always good). The switch extender we sell is a 100% fix, it is not clear as shown in all of our ads, but we feel it is nearly invisible from the player perspective. If you didn't know it was there, from the player's perspective you would not see it (see pic). Your solution will work as will others that are out there, but when you start bending switches, you can mess them up. Plus, yours requires people to solder in a new switch, which many people may not be comfortable with. The issue is that the ball tends to fly too fast and too high to register the stock switch so locating the switch further down the line is the proper fix. This may be why yours is missing some times. For $12 shipped and 5 mins to install, it's hard to go wrong with the solution we offer.
bracket view (resized).JPG
1 week later
Quoted from HooperTriplett:Looking for a little help...
First machine and bought just late last week. After having some DMD issues, I'm now getting a Check Fuse F115 and F116, J112 and Opto 12v Supply. Replaced the fuses for F115 and F116. J112 snug and nothing loose. Replaced the batteries - no corrosion. What am I missing? Where should I be looking?
Much thanks in advance![quoted image]
Start here: https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Check_Fuses_F115_and_F116_Message
1 week later
1 month later
Quoted from Phesson:I am having a drop target/lock issue on my Shadow. I wanted to go into diagnostics but none of the buttons responded.
I saw in the wire bundle from the coin door that I have a green wire not attached. The length and angle of the wire makes it look like it should go with the rest of the wires in that bundle to J5 on the coin door interface board. But there are no missing wires on J5 or any of the other connectors on the board that I can find.
Any advice on where to go with this issue?
[quoted image][quoted image]
Look on page 3-33 of the manual and see where the green wire might go. Can’t tell what other color is on that green wire, but that will help a lot
1 month later
Quoted from hawknole:Hi, just joined the club, looking for the main cabinet decals as I have the backbox ones. PM if so, thanks.
Edit: I would take even just a front main cab decal, thx
good luck, unobtanium.
Quoted from RobDutch:Some stores in Europe have them. No clue tho if they are any good:
https://pinballdecals.eu/shop/the-shadow-pinball-cabinet-decals-set/
https://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts-by-game/the-shadow/9489/cabinet-decal-set-for-the-shadow
I had looked into those and after speaking to a few people, decided not to buy them. They are not licensed, if that matters to you.
4 months later
Quoted from monkfe:I need some new cabinet decals...my go to was pinballdecals.eu anyone have any other alternative to them?...
Very hard to find, not sure they even exist. Someone should license them from PPS and offer them. Demand would be pretty high I think.
Quoted from monkfe:yeah they have them....I guess its my only option right now...https://pinballdecals.eu/?s=shadow&dgwt-wcas-search-submit=&post_type=product&dgwt_wcas=1.
Be careful, quality may be an issue on those. I had looked into them and decided against buying. They aren’t licensed. Maybe someone who has bought them can chime in.
7 months later
Quoted from epeabs:www.pinballdecals.eu has nice Shadow cabinet decals.
If you are doing the entire cabinet, their decals might be ok, but if you are doing sections only, they don’t match well. Unfortunately, they seem to be the only game in town so their is little choice.
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