(Topic ID: 46571)

The Shadow Club


By marsgnu

6 years ago



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  • Latest reply 13 minutes ago by woody76
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Topic index (key posts)

3 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #73 Insert LED bulbs and colors Posted by MnHotRod (6 years ago)

Post #4322 Alternate Shadow Translite and Speaker Panel Posted by Aurich (2 years ago)

Post #4328 Shadow Manual Rubber Ring Chart link Posted by vireland (2 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#1419 4 years ago

Ok. Been eyeing if for a year. Saw many here but none close enough and shipping was stopping me. Made an exhaustive 11-1/2 hour round trip today(8 hours driving) and it's finally here!

Got a great price. It's in great shape outside and in. Few cab scuffs. All inserts are great. Slight divot in the sanctum that will need addressing. Also a trough issue. Nothing major, thouh. Too tired tonight but hope to be playing very soon!image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg

image.jpg
#1423 4 years ago
Quoted from Bishop:

How do I go about joining. I traded my pretty worn T2 for The Shadow and haven't looked back! What a game!!!!!

Congrats. I think pics are all that's needed for club entry.

#1424 4 years ago

While i'm here I have a question and this is probably the best place to find an answer. So happy to have finally gotten my Shadow and it is in very good condition but it is missing the knurled lockdown screw for the Battlefield. Does anyone know where I can track one down?

#1429 4 years ago

sometimes you see a gam that has a clear piece of plastic protecting the tax stamp.

And it's usually drilled right into the cabinet. Could be the case here

#1440 4 years ago

nope. There are only a couple places that sell the Monguls and you're looking $30 a piece or $80 for a set of 3.

#1441 4 years ago

I want to know where you can find the battlefield lockdown screw or a similar replacement.

#1463 4 years ago
Quoted from FLpinball:

here you go
FullSizeRender 2.jpg (Click image to enlarge)FullSizeRender.jpg (Click image to enlarge)

You have good taste in titles!image.jpg

#1475 4 years ago

Tomorrow marks one week that I brought my Shadow home and I'm just getting the last of the parts in for the shop job. I've been playing sparingly because it's pretty dirty. Can't wait to clean it up and play more of it.

#1477 4 years ago
Quoted from Axl:

jwo825 Fantastic Avatar! Arec Bardwin!
Someone should make that into a translite
Axl

Thanks. My idea, but CREYES82 photoshoped it for me.

Every time I look at the translate, I can hear the monologue from the end of Team America and it makes me laugh. Probably the only reason I'm not considering Aurich's alt.

#1479 4 years ago
Quoted from bballfan:

I took out the mini playfield and a few parts might be causing this.
A white rubber ring was in a hole that one of the posts go into and these 2 brackets look bent.
20150313_171331.jpg (Click image to enlarge)
20150313_175651.jpg (Click image to enlarge)

FWIW, mine is misaligned and I can find no obstructions. I may discover something when I start tearing it down. If I do. I'll let you know.

1 week later
#1501 4 years ago
Quoted from canea:

Big shout out to brandsilence for the hook-up! Look at them squishy cheeks.

aleccccc.jpg (Click image to enlarge)

My wife told me this translite is ugly, but considering I once had a Raven, she's not all that upset about it.

#1513 4 years ago

I've had mine shopped and fully functional for about two weeks now and it's brutal. I just got on the buy-in score board for the first time today. I don't know if it's because I'm just not a good player or if im just not clicking with it yet, but I don't see myself mastering it any time soon. TZ was kinda that way for me. Almost a year of real terrible play and then it clicked and I could get LITZ about every 10 plays or so.

#1528 4 years ago
Quoted from o-din:

Hi all. Call me a traiter if you like, but I have recently traded my Shadow for another game. That leaves me with some extra parts that didn't go with the deal including some hard to get items. I'm not sure the left diverter bracket is available anywhere anymore and some of the other parts I got from Australia because I couldn't get them here. Most are Shadow only parts that are known to fail. I also have an unopened CPR plastic set.
The following parts I would be willing to sell as a lot for $300 shipped and includes-
Both new Steel Mantis ramps
One Phurba
One Mongel-
Left diverter bracket and crank arm
The other parts you see are all part of the Sanctum Target assembly and can wear out or break and will be included.
All these parts except the Mongel are new and never installed
The plastic set is $150 shipped which is basically free shipping over buying one from CPR
If someone wants it all- $400 shipped
Now back to your regular programming......
ShadowParts.JPG (Click image to enlarge)

O-din, I sent you a message.

1 month later
11
#1572 4 years ago

Don't remember seeing this on the thread so just wanted to put it out there. If you repin the GI connectors using the manual as a guide, you will do it wrong. The manual has misprints and you will end up with 2 strings running through fuse F107 and it will continuously blow. Repin it just as it is on the original IDC connector. If it has already been done or if you lose track, use this for the correct configuration.404414.jpg

1 month later
#1617 4 years ago

11037474_10152702299321814_4911260558352194434_n.jpg19119_10152702299026814_5384895408825796916_n.jpgThe Shadow was one of the easier shop jobs I've done. Once you remove the battlefield, you'll see the playfield isn't too complicated. The wireforms look scary but they aren't really tough to piece together. I think I had to unplug 13 connectors below the playfield in order to remove everything. Painter's tape makes good labels for loose plugs. Stripping the entire playfield gave me a new appreciation for the Design. It's just a well thought out machine in every aspect; layout, unique diverters, high risk/reward shots, music, dots, and maintenance friendly.

Repairing the sanctum isn't bad either. I used a wood epoxy. Put a little extra on and in one hour it had set enough to sand level. I let it dry for another 23 hours. Mixing the paint was the hardest part. Let the paint dry overnight then hit it with clear from a rattlecan. After another day of drying, I used progressively fine sandpaper and then Novus to buff it to a shine. Color isn't an exact match but it's pretty darn close and you would have to strip the playfield to see the transition lines. I put a piece of Mylar over it to keep it pretty forever.

#1619 4 years ago
Quoted from nicoga3000:

Is there a way to protect the Battlefield plastic from the arm smacking into it? Mine has a buuuunch of microcracks on the top.

I thought I saw a Cliffy or something similar once, but i'm not turning anything up on a quick search. I'll edit if I can find it.

1 week later
#1639 4 years ago
Quoted from Asael:

A few days ago, the wall target/ magnet effect stopped working correctly. I checked the switch and everything was ok. When I tested the magnet the ball is not been thrown up. It just stays on place and I got the message bad opto 33. But the opto also works as it should.
I think the problem is very simple. The guy that owned The Shadow before put a decal over the wear of the magnet lock. And also the rest of the playfield is clearcoated I can feel a very small dent under the decal, it is just enough that the ball stays there and won't be released by the magnet. When I put a smal poker card over the decal, the ball will be captured by the magnet and everything works as it should.
So what do you guys think should I do?
I am not experienced enough to fill the dent and clear coat it, so I do not trust myself to remove the decal to look under it. Should I simply put mylar over the decal and hope that it will be then flat enough so the ball won't be held anymore?

I had no repair experience either, but look at my post #1617. It would be real simple for you to fill that divot in with wood epoxy and then just tape off the area and sand it level. Just cover it with the decal if you don't want to try clear coating it. Very simple to do.

1 month later
#1751 4 years ago

I'm not a fan of LEDs on the older titles, but I really love that translite. If the original did bother me, this is definitely the one I would want.

#1820 4 years ago

I love the colored dots. With the addition of this one, only our CV won't have one and that's because it won't fit.

#1838 4 years ago
Quoted from Mbecker:

Hoping to get thoughts on a two issues I have had since I got my Shadow:
1) The battlefield kicker 'kicks' pretty much every time the flipper button is pressed to slid it right and left. It still slides fine both directions but it just kicks one time first as it starts to slide. Pretty sure it should only kick when the opto beam is broken by the ball.. right?
2) The skill shot.. the phurbas reset both pointing down to the left side on ball start. You select the skill shot, and if you hit the left ramp for it it awards the one that wasn't selected. I've gotten used to remembering it's opposite but I'd still love to solve the issue.. haven't had any great ideas on what would cause that yet except something weird with the wiring. It awards the left or right side of the left ramp correctly when you hit them otherwise.
thanks for any thoughts on these..

1) flip up the battlefield and take a good look at what's under there. There is a mess of wires under there and it's easy for one to get nicked and cause a short. I would check there first.

2) I'm not able to lift my shadow right now, but when I shopped mine I seem to remember a lot of plugs under the playfield below each diverter. If someone removed the ramp before you, it may be possible they plugged them back in wrong.

Hope that's a good starting point.

#1855 4 years ago

When I got my Shadow it had a very loud hum but it also had a decent divot in the sanctum. I repaired the area when I tore it down. I didn't adjust the magnet or the bracket underneath. The only thing that changed was the amount of material above it. I can still hear it hum, but before it was three times as loud. Has anyone else noticed machines getting louder once a divot starts to form?

#1861 4 years ago
Quoted from Troutfarm:

Anyone else wish the green score color was more saturated like the title color in the COLORDMD? kind of a drag. I am still happy with how it looks.
image.jpg

It matches the original translate and speaker panel better.

#1868 4 years ago
Quoted from PoMC:

I'd like to see video with the original translite ,but yeah, that color looks awful with the alt translite. Doesn't even look green, looks like aqua or something.

I shot a quick video on the iPad during lunch. It's taking forever to upload, though. It's at 30% after an hour and a half. Hopefully it'll be done soon and I'll post it here. I have the original translate.

#1874 4 years ago

Ok. It took all afternoon for me to get it uploaded. having some internet problems. Had to set the iPad on the lockdown bar and prop it against my chest. Not the best, but you can see quite a few animations.

3 weeks later
#1961 4 years ago

I finally concentrated and got to the secret laughter mode this weekend. It was pretty cool. Approaching 6 months of ownership and I still haven't made it to the final battle or even busted 1B on the scoreboard. I'm not a great player, though.

#1970 4 years ago
Quoted from woody76:

I feel ya, I almost hit a billion last month. 934 million is my highest score. It is a tough one.

I like how there's a separate leaderboard if you use the buy-in. So you can't try to pass it off as a 3-ball game.

#1972 4 years ago

I have three and I love them. Wouldn't even consider going back to the orange DMD. A big pluss is you don't ever have to worry about the high voltage section of the display board. Remember when the DMD could degas and you'd end up with a bad DMD and smoked board? No chance of that now. Considering the price of machines now, I don't sweat being $1200 into the DMDs. Hell, you can barely find a busted HH or Pinbot for $1200 anymore.

#1975 4 years ago
Quoted from fosaisu:

Yeah, I don't know if ColorDMD has a setting you can easily toggle to do grayscale, but if so it'd be awesome if someone could shoot a little video and post it. I've always thought that'd look cool on a Shadow.

Yes, in Sigma mode you can choose monochrome. I think it's up to 34 different colors or so now. You can select white as the color. Don't forget that the color DMD also has 3 or 4 upscaling modes as well and you can upscale in full color now.

#1979 4 years ago
Quoted from rcbrown316:

good point on the hv circuitry. i have a need for an hv board right now so I could steal that from Shadow and put into taf then blow the 400 on color for Shadow right? that would bring it down to 310 but thats still alot.
new dmd is 160 and hv board is 90. thats 250.

People like what they like. I didn't hesitate to buy the DMD but i'm not interested in the Aurich translate and speaker panel at all. I think it's great, it's just that the originals don't bother me. I think the what the color DMD adds was worth the price. Other's might not, but think that the alt translate and speaker panel are. Some might want both, but that's just crazy talk.

#1982 4 years ago
Quoted from rcbrown316:

so you can choose from any of the 34 colors also? how hard is that to do? the ability to give them 34/35 different looks is pretty cool actually if that is the case. bsd is a good example. that red looks awful to me

see the color DMD post. I had no idea it was that many colors as I never change them from the colorized roms. I do know that to cycle through the monochrome colors, it's just one button to press. just lift off the translate and adjust it until you find the hue you like.

#1988 4 years ago

Also, make sure that both assemblies have the spring. If it's missing, the diverter will drift during play.

#2022 4 years ago

Nice! That makes 5 known Shadows in Houston!

#2034 4 years ago

I think the new rom looks great but I have beef with it. It didn't make the game any easier!

I think the new green is definitely easier on the eyes. I don't know if it's just my machine, but I found the old green was a better match to the green on the speaker panel. The new green matches the color of the Shadow logo on the translate a lot better. The explosions look great.

All in all an improvement. Thanks to all who worked on it and playtested it.

3 weeks later
#2111 4 years ago

These playfields were silk screened. It's entirely possible to have variations between batches. These things weren't build with the purpose of being collector's items, either. As long as the machine was sound and playable, I wouldn't put it past the playfield manufacturer to substitute and/or mix colors as needed to meet production timelines.

1 week later
#2148 4 years ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

Thanks, I needed that!
Some Pics...Almost finished.....Sneek peek at Matrix....Post lights, 20 SMD High Density Apron Strips, Full Back strip, and
1/2 Purple, 1/2 White, Backstrip, with white brightness dialed down.
All plug into Bulbs themselves, 6.3V takes only minutes......Waiting on 1 more shipment to launch!

post-light-small-web-a.jpgShadow-Apron-and-Post-Lighst-web.jpgShadow-20inch-80-SMD-White-small-web.jpgshadow-purple-small-web.jpgShadow-Apron-and-Post-Lighs-3-small-web.jpgShadow2.jpg Shadow3.jpg

All those pretty LEDs and then that big orange DMD. If ever there was a Shadow begging for a colorDMD, this is it!

2 weeks later
#2193 4 years ago
Quoted from ALY:

I'm not sure if that's a TS only issue, but my bottom right flipper is not so responsive as it should be. TS has upper right flipper which is triggered after the bottom one. It's really hard to do a fliper pass with my bottom right. It's dropping few miliseconds later. Both flippers are shopped with new coils. Could it be the opto switch board?
How's your TS bottom right flipper acting?
Maybe a video would help. I'll try to record one later.

Check the optos and also check the flipper hardware itself, especially the rod that rides through the coil. On mine, the end of that rod that strikes the coil stops started to become mushroomed and would cause my flippers to get hung in the up position or return slowly. if you didn't replace all the hardware when you did the coils, this may be a recent development.

#2198 4 years ago

I must be the only person who likes my battlefield dark. Goes well with the dark theme of the game. I briefly thought about adding a spot but I did a test first. I played a lot of games during the day with great light and then I played a lot of games at night with no lights on in the room. I didn't find my performance on the Battlefield affected much in either situation, so I just left it as is.

#2200 4 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

Hello, I just joined the club! I read something about this pin, but it will take time ti digest all the knowledge contained only in this thread, so be patient if I ask something obvious - maybe just point me to the right link if you can.
So, I've seen at least 4 different translite for this pin, and my fav is Aurich's. Is this translite shipped togheter with the speaker panel? Is there somebody willing to sell it?

Aurich sold the translite and speaker panel together. Last I heard, he was out and has yet to make another run of it. Also, the selling rules for the site have changed drastically in the last week. You may be best served by sending Aurich a PM.

#2214 4 years ago
Quoted from tachi:

I have posted a few times in this thread and fixed some of the issues I listed. Right now I'm at a point where I don't know how to fix whats still showing error's on. I have 2 choices
Option A: sell "The Shadow" I paid 2,800$ and have sunk another 400$ into the complete teardown and clean and fix (new plastic set, new flipper sets complete rebuild including solenoids on all 3, full LED setup installed + I have another 75 un-installed LEDs of various colors so that you could setup the machine on whatever light scheme you prefered)
Option B: find someone who can help me fix it, It throws error codes on the mini-battlefield. as if the opto's that measure the side to side motion are not registering so the gear/motor spins the kicker to the left side and never stops properly just bumps into the plastic and grinds till the board tells it to stop. I can't find any setting to test the mini playfield individual sensors.
When i purchased the machine 6 months ago it was in 100% working condition but was in a typical routed shape, very dirty and things needed adjusting all over. The wear on the sanctum caused the machine to not register the ball properly without keeping the game improperly tilted up high in the back. I stripped the playfield and used wood filler to fill the divot, used paint to try and paint over then did clear coat on the area so its now very smooth and flat.
-I live in the albany NY area if anyone is near enough to offer any help. If i did post it for sale could I break even? or at least sell for close to 3k? I really wish I spent the extra thousand and got the HUO Simpsons machine. I liked The Shadow flow better and this was the cleanest Shadow I could find.

That game is entirely salvageable. Stick with it, you'll be glad you did. I'm sure there's a pinhead here who would come over and help you diagnose it over some beers.

#2242 4 years ago
Quoted from tachi:

I put my machine in test mode 1 and identified a few switches that are not functioning properly, the mini battlefield opto underneath doesn't register the credit card test on the right side but is fine on the left do these actually break? seems like a part that would never break.
A few other switches along the wireforms to replace but 1 switch is strange the standup target for the MO(N)GOL when i press the "N" it clips the switch on and off almost instantly and won't stay registered even when i'm pressing it down like all the other standup targets, I asume this is broken? its a brand new standup target and the solder is good.

I would verify the solder one more time just to be sure. You could also be getting a bad connection at the board. unplug and replug the switch connectors a few times to remove any patina that may have formed over the years.

#2251 4 years ago

The Shadow has the mini playfield drop target bank, two diverters (2 coils a piece), two slings, three flippers, two drop targets and a vuk. That's 13 coils and 6 of those are in close proximity in the upper third of the playfield. Take a good amount of time with the playfield up to inspect stitches and their diodes. After 20+ years of all that vibration, it's no stretch to imagine a lot of cracked solder joints or broken diode legs. I know I have to resolder quite s few of them on mine when I picked it up. If this game had pops, it'd probably be a nightmare!

#2254 4 years ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

Completed tear down done. Putting back together this week. I love tearing pins down. But this Shadow will be for sale. PM me if interested.
image.jpeg
image_1.jpeg

If that sticker is covering wear on the Sanctum, you might as well repair it while the playfield is stripped.

#2296 4 years ago

Art, I'm thinking of doing just the controlled lamps of my Shadow and IJ with LEDs. I'm just not a fan of LEDs in the GI, though. I tried a couple of your bulbs and I love them. Do you have controlled lamp onlykits for these two titles?

#2301 4 years ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

Try the frosted LED bulbs from pinballbulbs.com....they are very nice in the GI...
on a side note, your game played really well at the Houston Expo! Maybe you could help me dial in my new-to-me Shadow!

I think it's more the fact that I don't have and don't plan on installing an LED OCD board that I don't like the GI. Even the non-ghosting bulbs have an annoying flicker unless you turn the dimming feature off. And I like that feature.

I would be more than happy to help you dial in your Shadow. Just send me a message and we can work out a time to get together.

#2302 4 years ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

So Sorry that we dont do game specific kits...gosh, so busy now.
We recommend you turn on all lamps, and simply count the colors that you can match with a frosted Twin 2835. If you want Purple, and I love Purple in the inserts, Purple Passion is a great touch.
Look at a bunch of the pictures, as the center modes can be lit many ways, and this is one reason we
dont offer a kit....so many great ways to light!
Wen you finish totaling those, pop the hood, and only note 44/47....there may be/should be a few.
Now you can use 1 SMD frosted, but youd use Warm white for yellow and orange, as they are not bright enough.
About $39 +/- total for Inserts.
If you do wish a kit, the 1 SMD 5050 Insert Kits are available at Cointaker, and Pinball Bulbs...
Both offer the same brightness with same diode, but different color choices likely in some areas.
I just love the Glow of the frosted Twins...
Hope this helps.

Thanks for the write up. I'll probably make a list this weekend as I need to clean it from last weekend's Expo. I tried some of your Cyan bulbs in a mod I was building and loved them. Might try those in the mode inserts since I'm not too big a fan of purple. I liked purple in my TOTAN pops and that was about it.

#2305 4 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Came across this on my walk home from work.

image.jpeg

I'm roasting a duck tomorrow. Though I've eaten a lot, I've never roasted one so I've been reading recipes all week. I laughed and said the line for each and every one of the thousand Peking duck recipes I've seen. My wife said I have mental issues. Lol

#2326 4 years ago
Quoted from BulkOfTheSeries:

I dropped the color DMD in mine today and it looks awesome. I'm having three issues though.
1) The Sanctum Wall wont always lock in the 'up' position. Sometimes it fires and tries a few times, never makes it. Sometimes it locks up briefly to fall back down. Sometimes it works. It appears to be able to raise all the way up, but not 'stay' up.
2.) The back row of my battlefield doesnt pop back up after they're knocked down. They stay down. Is this a switch I need to adjust? I think it is but I'm unsure how.
3.) My ball gets stuck on the left ramp too often. It 'dies' on the wire headed to the right side of the machine, where the little switch the ball rolls over is present. Is this common?

1) Lift the play field and drop that assembly. It's only a couple screws. Clean i thoroughly and be sure to inspect the target well. The little lip that causes it to hang in the up position can get worn down and eventually won't grab.

2) This could be a multitude of problems. If I had to take a wild guess, i'd say a wire beneath the mini play field got cut, taking out the optos that sense the targets when they drop. That moving kicker can really shred wires underneath quickly if someone didn't route them properly.Or something is wrong with the opto board like a cracked solder joint. I would rack out the play field and flip up the mini. Everything is really easy to access. Put the game in switch test to determine if the optos are working.

3) I'd like to see pictures of balboarules's fix as it sounds interesting. I really had to bend my switch out a lot because that switch will not register a lot of times during gameplay because the ball goes past so fast. The tradeoff is that a poor shot can get the ball stuck if it's moving real slow. When I got a few hang ups, I made sure the game was perfectly leveled left to right. Then I cranked up the angle. I'm not sure exactly what it is, but i'm guessing 7.5 or 8 degrees. Haven't had a hang since, the switch registers almost 100% of shots, and TS rocks with the blazing fast speed of being at that high angle.

#2336 4 years ago
Quoted from kermit24:

Ok here is a strange one. My volume screen is in French. Everything else on the game menus is in English. Dip switches are set to USA. It is a reimport and with a single slot coin door set for Francs. Ideas?
image.jpeg

It's obvious that some great, ominous power is compelling you to learn French!

#2338 4 years ago
Quoted from tachi:

I'm still working to sort out my last few issues with The Shadow and the battlefield mini opto beneath the battlefield that registers the kicker movement side to side doesn't stop the opto from moving right. I found in switch test mode 1 that the right limit was not registering at all to a credit card test. So i ordered a new one for 30$ and after soldering it in the same problem persists. Mini kicker is not acting up the same before it would stutter to the left before finally grinding to a stop. Now it moves left hits the left limit and moves right only to ram into the plastic siding. This is the little mini check that happens when I power on the machine every time.
I can't believe I got a bumb right mini limit opto fresh out of a package. Its gotta be a wiring issue.
So does anyone know what I should see wiring wise from the 2 mini opto's that are linked in series and where those wires lead too under the table? This is past my level of experience but i'm willing to try and learn.

Honestly, flip up the mini playfield and trace that opto's wires carefully. There is a mess of wires running beneath that mini playfield and it's very common for wires to get cut because they have wiggled out of place there. I had the coil power wire knocked on mine which was shorting on metal and burning a fuse. Just have a look closely at all the wires underneath and put them back into the plastic clips if they've come out.

#2341 4 years ago

Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't that French volume screen telling you to say no to drugs? LMAO!

#2343 4 years ago
Quoted from kermit24:

Yes - because we always revert to French when under the influence...

I was born and raised in south Louisiana and I can tell you that when drunk, many people do!

#2346 4 years ago
Quoted from TechnicalSteam:

Thinking of adding The Shadow to my collection. That new Backglass makes this game so much more desirable. On my 2016 list.
Anyone here consider selling PM me. I'm in the Midwest.

Aurich is in the process of another run right now. Send him a PM and see if you can get on the list in case he has any extras.

#2348 4 years ago
Quoted from InfamousDolphin:

Hi everyone. I recently got a Shadow machine and have a few issues that have come up, and not being very fluent in diagnosing issues I thought I would post here to see what I should do
1.) Left Phurba was working fine, but recently moves to one side really well, but almost not at all on the other. I hit the button and I can hear it fire each time but it stops like midway or sometimes moves just a half inch or so
2.) The gun trigger doesn't seem to want to reset, I have to physically pull the trigger out
Thanks!

1) first thing i'd check is to see if its just getting loose. Take all the balls out and flip up the playfield. Then grab it with your hand and see if it wiggles loose. There is a set screw underneath to tighten it. Just be careful not to strip it.

2) If it feels gummy, you probably just need to disassemble and clean it. if it presses smoothly but doesn't come back out, the return spring inside is probably broken.

#2363 4 years ago

If your GI has been re-pinned, it could be wired wrong, as there is an error in the manual. When I got mine, the lower back box and upper left playfield were on the same fuse and kept overloading it. Go back a few pages in this thread and there is a good picture of the correct wire positions.

1 week later
#2369 4 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

I've noticed that many times, if a ball makes it up the right side of the left diverter with just enough momentum, it will become captured behind the switch. I'm sure this is a common problem with The Shadow. What would be the recommended solution to prevent this?
Shadow Ball.jpg

Straighten out the switch blade a bit and it should help. It's going to take some time and effort to get it just right, though. I like my Shadow at a greater angle than 6.5. For what it's worth, I've never had a hang up at the big angles, but get them periodically if I lower it a bit.

3 weeks later
#2410 4 years ago
Quoted from DMC:

Hey guys I've had a bit of strange behavior lately - the left flipper button has fired the gun (launched a ball) as well as pushed the battlefield entrance drop target up. It's infrequent but I want to fix it. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

Check the switch matrix and see if those are all in the same row or column. Sounds like a diode on one of the switches in the chain may be shorted.

#2420 4 years ago
Quoted from ozsammyboy:

No, when the ball drops from there I was under the impression there was some sort of clear plastic that broke the balls fall before it hit the play field and directed the ball to the ramp instead. Does that sound right? Thanks for your help!

There is a triangle shaped clear plastic that is screwed onto the screened plastic that is under the left side of the drop area. It has three screws with spacers to keep it about an inch off the screened plastic. If the ball drops off the playfield on the right side, though, it drops onto the playfield.

If a ball rolls off there with a lot of speed, it can sometimes land on the ramp, but will almost always fall and hit the playfield in the left orbit or in the Shadow Loop (inner loop) lane. image_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpeg

#2428 4 years ago

I've been through all the modes including the secret laughter mode several times but I always come up short on the scarf. Either I don't beat the battlefield or I can't stick the saucer for Khan multiball. Always coming up just a little short of entering final battle. Oh well, it keeps the game interesting. About a year of ownership thus far and I still love it like the day I got it.

#2431 4 years ago
Quoted from swampfire:

I think I need to replace the big caps on my power driver board; my coils are slightly weak. Just enough to be noticeable, compared to DH.

it could be any number of issues. If the game is not resetting. I'd try cleaning the optos first. Then clean/inspect each flipper assembly. Dirty coil sleves can really rob power as can worn linkages. You can lose a lot on the power stroke with slop in the linkages. I would clean/inspect the moving parts before going into board work.

2 weeks later
#2502 4 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Found a Shadow! Going to have it shipped but it will be worth it. Just considering getting Aurich's alternate translite kit and a ColorDMD at the moment. I'm sure if I ask if either are worth the cost the answer will be "YES!", lol.

Both are awesome upgrades.

#2504 4 years ago

Also, I think Aurich is sitting on the last few he'll ever run. If you're serious about getting his translite and speaker panel, I suggest you move quickly.

#2506 4 years ago
Quoted from kpg:

My friend picked up a Shadow recently, complete with ColorDMD and Aurich translite.
He's having an issue, an issue that the previous owner I am sure decided not to mention when listing for sale here on Pinside. With that said, does anyone know what could be causing the game to randomly reboot during a game? There seems to be no rhyme or reason of when it reboots, the lights go out and the game resets.
Any advice would be appreciated, thanks!

That's a real common issue with WPC games. Just search the forums for "WPC reset" or something similar and you'll drum up a ton of stuff. It's been discussed hundreds of times and it could be a multitude of issues.

I will say this, though. Before blaming the seller for lack of disclosure, check all the connectors in the backbox. Reseat all the power connections into the boards as well as the ribbon cables. Push in on any socketed ICs to make sure they're seated fully. Especially the ASIC chip in the MPU. And be sure to put a volt meter on the outlet and make sure the power conimg from there is good, because if it's low your game is doomed to reset until that's corrected.

#2511 4 years ago
Quoted from Brad76:

For those who have bought the colordmd how do you like it on ts? Worth it?

I think it's one of the best ones. The dots on this game are great. I will say that it's a better investment if you play a lot of multiplayer games. If you just play at home by yourself, you're going to miss a lot of the animations.

1 week later
#2551 4 years ago
Quoted from PinballNewb:

Playfield GI is still incandescents. I did however just fix a burnt connector that had taken out my backbox lighting. I replaced all lights in the backbox with leds. All inserts are led and have been since I've had it. You have me thinking about the backbox lighting now....It had been out for a bit of time and I never noticed any problems. Maybe I'll unplug it and play a few games to compare with it off.
I'll take a look at the extender you mentioned. Thank you.

I would also lift up the mini playfield and make sure all the wires are routed correctly beneath there. Very easy for them to get in a bind or get pinched. Either could be causing intermediate interruption of power leading to the random kicks.

Also, I'll try to look back through this thread for it, but if you repinned your backbox connector by the book, it will be incorrect. There is a misprint in the manual. Not much of an issue with LEDS, but with incandescents, there are too many lights on one string and it'll blow a fuse that takes out the lower backbox and the top left playfield GI. There is a pic of the correct pin locations somewhere in this thread.

Edit: Found it
297d6faad206f66e596a608426f03f0e4d7b3481_(resized).jpg

1 month later
#2613 3 years ago

I find that the difficulty increases as the angle decreases. I got the best ball times when I was somewhere between 8 and 8.5 degrees. Last time I moved it, I set it up at 7.5 and my average score went down about 80-100M points.

3 weeks later
#2673 3 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

hello, not a native speaker, and i was wondering the meaning of "Any-one for Peking Duck?".
I understand it's a quote from the movie, but what is the in-context meaning?

It's a code word used in the movie. To identify his secret operatives if I remember correctly.

4 months later
#3005 3 years ago
Quoted from TheCount:

I recently got the second Shadow that I've owned. This one is just about as nice if not nicer than my first, which I swore I would never sell and did. I played it a few days and then tore it down for complete shop. The flippers were freshly rebuilt so I managed to skip that. But other than that it got the full treatment: all PF metal tumbled, all stainless rails regrained then buffed, plastics ultrasonic'd, new rubbers and balls, etc. The PF was stripped completely on top so I polished and waxed it. Then I LED'd it exactly the same as my last one. I'm very happy with how it came out.

This was my machine and absolutely the best title I've owned. I kept it pretty clean but you have taken it to another level. You did probably the most tasteful LED job I've seen on this thread. Treat it good, it's a solid machine.

FYI to Pinside: TheCount was a pleasure to deal with. Knows his stuff, drove a long way to get this, and didn't try to tire kick when he got here. All around nice guy and I wouldn't hesitate to buy or sell from/to him again.

#3010 3 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

I played that Shadow at the local show last year and agree. It was fantastic. It convinced me that I wanted a Shadow for myself. Wish I knew it was for sale earlier since it would of saved me a lot of trouble getting my Shadow. I would say you got a pretty good deal, Count.

Yeah, I tried to keep it local but our timing was just off. Wasn't just you, several locals contacted me only days after it left. That's the way it goes. If I ever decide that I want to keep machines in the house again, I'm going to regret letting it go. It won't be cheap to get one in a couple more years.

1 week later
#3046 3 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Is there a way to grow the jackpot value, either before or during the multiballs? I'm not referring to the double or triple jackpot, but the actual amount.

When you're in Shadow multiball, you can shoot a ball into one or both of the saucers. They will be held for a short time (10 seconds or so by default). Hitting the loop with the balls in the saucers increases the jackpot value.

1 week later
#3074 3 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Need to rebuild GI connector and backbox connector. Same connectors? I know the wires are thicker on the GI connector
Any links to correct parts would help

scroll back through this thread when you're ready to re-pin that GI connector. There are errors in the manual and if you use it, you will overload one string and blow fuses. There is an updated diagram with the correct way to pin the connector.

#3081 3 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Gonna led my shadow. Any new led pics? I like the blue and purple led look but this game is so dark a nice white also brings out colors. Anyone that can post a nice pf pic that would be nice. Thx

Go back one page and look at TheCount's post. One of the only Shadows here that doesn't look like its puking pink and purple. I think it looks great and he has some tasteful colored mode inserts.

1 week later
#3173 3 years ago

I had the loud hum when I got mine. It also had a decent sized divot in the sanctum. I repaired mine and the sound went from a loud buzz to just a moderate hum that is normal of a magnet. I assume the closer the ball is to the magnet, the louder the buzz. I'd try backing the core out until it is just a little stronger than is required to grab the ball. This way you minimize noise and wear. If you have sanctum wear I'd recommend repairing it while you have the game stripped.

3 weeks later
#3220 3 years ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

I totally mis-read this due to the font and thought WTF, then I realized what it really said.

That is hilarious. As many times as I've looked over the playfield I never saw that. Thanks for the laugh!

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