Shadow, The
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Hi all, I'm thinking of biting the bullet and joining the club. I have the opportunity to buy a Shadow in the $3-4K range. Here are some photos of The Shadow I'm looking at purchasing. I'll be traveling out to test it in person.
I'm relatively new to the pinball scene. Can you please recommend there anything I should keep an eye out for, or if you see any red flags in the photos that I should be wary of? Thanks all, I appreciate expertise and advice!
Am I the only person who prefers the monotone DMD's compared to the multi-color DMD's? I'm not sure why, but I like the monotone look. I think it may be due to DMD's having limited dots to play with, the multi-color comes across as a bit gaudy and blocky (like a kid's toy Lite-Brite), whereas the design of the monotone DMD seems to have more unity...It's like trying to color an Ansel Adams.
Having said that, I think the different monotone color DMD's can look beautiful (such as the green TS I've seen here and red BSD).
Quoted from Circus_Animal:Biggest things are playfield wear in front of the Sanctum and the plastic rings above the ramps. Sanctum looks fine in the pictures (there will probably still be a small indentation if you actually touch it but this is pretty standard on The Shadow). The rings are all there in the pictures, but check them for damage, especially around the holes for the screws. These cost a couple of hundred to replace. Other than that, play the game- particularly the Battlefield- and as long as there's no major problems, it looks like it's in pretty good condition.
EDIT: What is the 6th photo (the inlane) supposed to be showing? Usually close-ups like this mean there's damage there but I'm not seeing any. Might be a good idea to check with the seller why that photo is in the ad.
Thanks Circus_Animal, I'm going to check it out this weekend. I'll pay close attention to the area shown in photo 6, that's a good point and nothing seems to stand out in the photo. I see you are a Sydneysider? Nice, I lived there for many years before moving to the US. I used to frequent the Darlo Bar to play their W2O. Newtown was a good place for pinball too.
I just purchased my very first pinball machine, a Shadow! I was deliberating between a Shadow and a W2O, and I think I chose wisely (W2O is amazing too, and there can always be pinball number two).
I notice that there is a slight hum and vibration on the Inner Sanctum lock, right before the ball is pulled back. Is this supposed to be normal, or should I look to fix?
As a side note, I am very new to pinball machines, and may have some questions on my Shadow... I'll try to search and find solutions first, but is it better for me to make new topics for each issue/question or can I post in this thread?
Quoted from PoMC:Yup, almost like the game has a weak shaker motor inside. Hum is the magnet engaging too.
Ah, so this is normal? I didn't notice it first and thought this may indicate that something needs to be tightened/fixed.
Quoted from TaTa:Welcome to the hobby! I too live in Bensalem and have a Shadow. Your more than welcome to PM me and we can talk and possibly meet up. There are several of us locally that have one. So any question should get answered.
Sounds great, I appreciate it. Great that there are local Pinsiders around, with the same machine nonetheless!
Quoted from jwo825:When I got my Shadow it had a very loud hum but it also had a decent divot in the sanctum. I repaired the area when I tore it down. I didn't adjust the magnet or the bracket underneath. The only thing that changed was the amount of material above it. I can still hear it hum, but before it was three times as loud. Has anyone else noticed machines getting louder once a divot starts to form?
Yes, I'm curious, do other Shadow's hum too? Is there anyone who has a perfectly silent Inner Sanctum wall?
I'm looking to replace some of the GI lights in my Shadow and I've looked in the manual, but can't find a location map of each of the lights. I see the General Illumination circuits (on 2-43), but no information of how many for each of the GI strings. Am I just missing it? Is a breakdown available anywhere?
Quoted from Aurich:Buy that for sure if you want one now. But I am going to do another run as soon as I can find enough free time to work on it. Both my day job and Alien are busy right now, just hard to find the time at the moment.
My money is ready and waiting, please take it!
Quoted from Aurich:Okay, just have to say this: if you don't have the ColorDMD in your Shadow then sell some plasma or your body on a street corner, come up with the $400, and get rid of that orange display that will never grace my Shadow again.
This video really doesn't even do it justice, since it's a camera pointed at an LCD screen and just doesn't show the colors as vibrant as they really are. Plus it's set to tile mode, and everyone knows the DotsXL are the best, keeps that nice round original look.
» YouTube video
Does the ColorDMD also have the capability to run in Monochrome of a given color like the other colorDMD's (like this one: http://shop.colordmd.com/colordmd-replacement-display-sigma) ? So for example, do I have the option to run the shadow DMD in solid green OR in the multicolor DMD that has just been released? Or do I have to select one or the other when buying? I'm hoping this Shadow color DMD would give me the best of both worlds?
I have a gameplay strategy question, in particular how to maximize the bonus multiplier. I understand that the scenes are only added when the bonus is applied, but the multiplier is only added to non-scene points. How do you actually accrue large numbers of these non-scene points that can be multiplied? Any tips?
I'm very new to pinball so don't have much to offer in the way of pinball advice/support/help (just yet). However, I have been painting since the age of 5... So here's something I can share, to give back for all the help I've received from you guys on Pinside.
I've been doing a Shadow Sanctum rebuild and wanted to match the grey paint as close as possible. I wanted to be able to replicate the mix in case I needed more, so I ended up tracking exactly how much of each color I put in. Here is my formula... Maybe there is a simpler one out there, but this is pretty darn close to the Williams color.
I used Createx airbrush paints (as recommended by Vid1900), I bought these from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Createx-Colors-2-Ounce-Primary-Airbrush/dp/B000E6KMOO/. I also purchased a purple Createx.
Here is the mix formula (I used drops, as they are all pretty equal in volume):
White: 98 drops
Yellow: 30
Black: 6
Purple:6
Red: 2
Green: 2
Blue: 1
The Shadow playfield grey color may be slightly different per pin, so you may need to add a drop of a color to tweak at the end, but this will get you very, very close. I hope this helps people trying to fix this common problem with The Shadow!
Quoted from PoMC:Great info! I'll be doing my Sanctum repair soon.
Great! Let me know how it goes, and in terms of tweaks:
-Should your paint mix be too yellow, add a drop of purple.
-Should your mix be too purple, add a drop of yellow.
-Then test your tint and lighten with a drop or two of white as required.
I don't mind the purple in the mode inserts, I think they look nice, but as one shade of purple (as opposed to different blues and purples). I'd recommend purple vs white if you are going to be bringing other purple into your Shadow, such as with flashers and posts (tying the colors together with more unity). If you are going to keep everything as factory, I'd recommend keeping inserts white, but this is just my opinion... Go with whatever works for you!
So I'm finishing up my Shadow rebuild and I have a question on how it goes back together. Why didn't I take pictures, I did... Unfortunately my MacBook Pro hard drive decided to go mid rebuild and I lost them. Timing! I'm currently trying a restore so fingers crossed...
Is there supposed to be a rubber sleeve on the front metal post of the population, or just the back?
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I'm not sure if it is sun fade on the scarf because the highlight color on the right doesn't seem to have faded too. I woul think both colors would get lighter simultaneously. This may be a printing issue, are all reds on the playfield the same color?
Quoted from ALY:I have the same on mine. Just on the back, but would like to hear why is it like that.
If this is as intended, I suspect it is because the back metal post takes the brunt of the impact. Having rubber on both posts may make the ball bounce out more.
Looks beautiful. I like how you've focused on pulling out the blue and gold.
I've been looking to add some spotlights to my Shadow but am unsure how to proceed... Are there any guides on what materials are needed and what socket on the GI should I attach the lighting wiring to? For example in terms of materials, I get that I'll need the spotlight and LED, but for example what size post/ additional screws/nuts would I need to mount it (how does it attach to the slingshot, etc)?
I'm finishing up my Shadow rebuild and I've noticed the ball gets stuck on the wireform when coming off the right side of the right diverter ramp. It hits the bottom of the wireform from the shooter lane (it gets stuck on the bottom wireform). Is the top wireform screwed in incorrectly (too low)? Or should I just bend up the ends of the wireform (is it currently tapering down too far). I recently had these replated, so it's possible they have changed in shape slightly. How do your Shadows look here?
I previously posted my paint formula for the Shadow grey earlier in this thread. I received my rebrassed wireforms and finally put my Shadow all back together.
Here is what the paint color looks like for reference: My completed Sanctum repair, all fixed, repainted and Mylar protection to keep it safe moving forward.
Quoted from Skyemont:Good point.
Just in case: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/39#post-2674488
Quoted from balboarules:Been shopping and repairing my Shadow for a few days, coming along nicely, I was trying to brighten up the battlefield, but everywhere I tried an LED strip I got glare from the strip, so I thought about adding a spot light in the top left corner, it worked out very well actually.. pictures taken with no flash, used a cool white non ghosting LED.. could do any color, but the one spot did the trick, I was going to put them on both sides, but found that just one was good enough. I added a spacer and changed the screw to a longer one for that post to raise up the spot.DSC01892.jpg DSC01893.jpg DSC01894.jpg
I really like what you've done here. Can you let me know what screw sizes/spacers you used for this configuration?
Quoted from madtown:What am i missing? i bought my first pin a year ago or so (TS) and have enjoyed it but after figuring out what i'm actually doing i have several issues with it. i think the object (?) of the game is to get to wizard mode (have not done it yet!) which would make the ramps/diverters/vengence as well as mongol hurry up/shooting outer loops completely useless toward accomplishing this goal. Seems like it would be a much better game if these were necessary to complete the red scarf (maybe light all four rings and do a three way combo). As it stands i dont see any point in shooting for ramps that brick and drain down the middle every time or getting the ball going lightning speed on the outer loops only to miss it once and drain. Every time i hear ATTACK now i ignore it completely rather than getting excited. When i hit a ramp now, its on accident. Seems to me its a fatal flaw in the game and takes away some of the excitement of playing. just wanted to hear others thoughts...thanks
Regarding the hurry-ups, these are common in most games, and very rarely do they have anything to do with progress towards wizard mode. The ramps and orbits... While not being required for the wizard mode per se, are still required to complete in order to do well in the modes (which do count towards Wizard mode). Sure you could just be lazy in the modes and get a low score, but then what's the point? Shots also work toward accruing extra balls.
I think it's good to have a balance of things to achieve, Shadow loops, Vengeance, Super Vengeance, scene bonus, Khan Triple Super Jackpot, Orbit taxi trips (Going to the different locations), Secret Laughter Mode, many combos up to the 7 way combo... All of these which don't necessarily go toward wizard mode).
The way I look at it in summary is it's nice to have additional things to do aside from churning towards the wizard mode... It makes it more of like a random journey towards a goal, instead of a direct checklist of tasks you just need to complete. Remember, Wizard mode is not intended to be a comprehensive collection of achieving everything on the table.
I'm thinking of picking up some side mirrors for my Shadow. Can anyone provide recommendations on brand and color? I was wondering how gold side mirrors would look in a shadow (with all the brass wireforms). Has this been done by anyone here?
Quoted from swampfire:I'm getting mirror-colored
I think this may be the way to go, supposedly any scratches can be polished out... On the black chrome or gold ones, scratches are permanent.
I wanted to create some art to put in the back of the pinball machine, but wanted something with a halftone gradient fade. Created this from scratch... It's similar to the other mods out there, but made sure the alignment was on point. I just have to match the proper pantones. I may also turn off the lights in some of the windows.
Quoted from kermit24:Ok here is a strange one. My volume screen is in French. Everything else on the game menus is in English. Dip switches are set to USA. It is a reimport and with a single slot coin door set for Francs. Ideas?
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What ROM version are you running? My guess is it is LX-6. I think this was a glitch in this ROM, perhaps someone else may have further insight. I think this was fixed in ROM version HK-6.
Quoted from fosaisu:While you're adjusting your Phurbas, I'd recommend replacing the set screws, there are accounts of them stripping and they'd be a nightmare to get out if they do. Some discussion here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/14#post-1449324
Agreed. Buy two of these: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4010-01066-06
Thanks for your help, yes it was definitely a fuse, but wasn't overloaded due to the strips. I also had two spotlights on the circuit which for some reason was causing the fuses to blow. I'm not sure why but it was definitely the spotlights. The full smd strips work perfectly now without the spots.
Quoted from Aurich:You're more than welcome!
Right now it's looking like a chunk of my list is flaking out, have a stack here unclaimed still. I guess I can try and figure out who hasn't ordered and try and hunt them down to ask if they still want them, but after a bit I'm just going to sell them to whoever asks for them, can't hold them forever after paying to have them printed if you're not gonna bother to respond.
If you're on my list and somehow missed the email I sent out shoot me a PM!
Aurich, that's disappointing to hear, you'd think people would be more appreciative of your efforts.
I recently finished rebuilding my Shadow, and many thanks to Aurich for helping me get rid of Alec, and also to Art from Cometpinball, Mike Chestnuet, and Kerry from Mantis Amusements.
I've just finished up the lighting. I color matched the GI with Cometpinball's 2 SMDs. I've been doing lots of experimentation with the GI lighting, and I'm sharing some of the results. My original thought was to make The Shadow look mysterious, so I originally went with Cool Whites, and some blue in the GI. I think it worked, with my Shadow looking like a distant cousin of Theatre of Magic, but I couldn't help but feel I was missing something... My Shadow is based off the the old radio show and pulp magazines, not the movie. And as such I felt I was not fully realizing the Art Deco design, and doing proper justice to the unique brass wire forms (Thanks Mike Chestnut).
I work in NYC, so on my way home from work I stopped by the Art Deco Waldof Astoria to take some photos for some inspiration... And noticed that the lighting is a very golden warm (not cool), with blue and black highlights image.jpeg
So I went ahead and redid the GI with Cometpinball's warm white bulbs, using a mix of 2SMD's retro bulbs and Optix Maximus. Created my own lost plastic in Illustrator, added a purple SMD strip above the lost plastic. I experimented with the wall, but felt that the lost plastic worked better, providing unity between the back of the pinball machine and the sides.
I added a warm white strip beneath the apron (I tried a purple strip below in my cool lighting below, but it just washed out all of the colors). I also added three spots, each with a Warm White Optix Maximus... I really wanted to push the golden hue and get the gold reflection from the wireforms. I added purple posts, and flashers, and purple post lights (I think I may change the post lights to blue at some point in the future however). I used some green beneath the battlefield, wanted to give it bit of eerie glow through the the cracks, drawing inspiration from the classic Zenith Magic Green Eye Radio...
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I think it came out pretty good, for comparison, here is my Version 1 cool version of The Shadow. You can see how the taxi colors are washed out, it's darker, and looks a bit more modern:
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And here it is after I modified to using the warm white lighting throughout. I really like the way this one came out, the playfield is more illuminated and wireforms seem to reflect as gold more (instead of the blue/silver in the cool version). I think it looks more vintage too, but I still might change my post lights to blue. I'll post some more photos soon.
Thanks, the cityscape panel is something that I've seen before, but it was no longer available, I thought one or two of the buildings were a bit clunky, and alignment was off so I created this one. Then I went to a printer to produce it. If there was enough interest, I could explore making them available for order.
Thank Art, I appreciate the kind words. All of these lights are Comet Pinball lights, and am really pleased with how they look. The only additional lighting customizations I'm looking to make are to add a light over the battlefield (once the diffused strip is available), and trial blue lights in the purple star posts, and blue lights in teal star posts. I'd like to lessen some of the purple near the front and use it more of a highlight to the blue. Blue tends to be used in art deco a bit more prevalently, so I think it may suit the theme.
Yes definitely, these are Comet lights and you are more than welcome to share these pics on your site. I'll send through some hi-res versions for you.
Quoted from Luppin:Amazing pictures, congrats! It looks like a "world" more than a playfield. In fact, when we play pinball with enter an entire new world, and your pics perfctly catch that dimension.
That's a really good point. I've always thought pinball was like a mini amusement park captured under glass. Some pins seem to capture this entire world feel better than others, where the lighting, playfield art, toys, design, typography, plastics all seem to come together to become a mini world.
These do it well:
Lord of the Rings
Indiana Jones: The Pinball Adventure
Congo
Tales of the Arabian Nights
The Shadow
Theatre of Magic
And for comparison, these don't seem to capture a complete world (just an opinion):
Metallica
Spiderman
I decided to experiment with different colored posts (purple, blue, teal) and lights (purple, blue). I went with purple posts with blue light. It creates a gradient of royal blue that works well with the Art Deco theme and playfield colors.
I've shared some photos for reference:
The star post options, I originally thought teal may work, but it looks too green
And here is the comparison of purple in purple post and blue in purple post:
half/half playfield comparison
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And the final result (blue light in purple post):
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Quoted from ozsammyboy:Hey...
Thanks for the reply. Sorry for the confusion I actually mean the plastics near the front of the battlefield where the balls falls down onto the play field / ramp from once you missed it with the moving flipper.
Do you mean the black plastic that raps around the whole battlefield?
Quoted from louknees:I have a shadow and absolutely love it. How many people here have gotten to the final battle? of those people how many have beat it? I've had the game for a while and I can get three of the 4 done, the two multiballs and the battlefield, but I've never gotten over 4 modes.
That mode start shot is tough and I seem to only make it when I'm already in a mode!
I made it to the Final Battle just once, and made an embarrassing mistake. I started off focusing on the Battlefield, nailing shots like a pro... Keeping five balls in play. Juggling... Losing one ball, nailing loops, ramps, orbits... Getting switch after switch. I'm on fire. Balls trickle away slowly... Four, three, two. Finally just a switch on the Battlefield and a few on the playfield. I hit the Final battlefield shot and continue with the last two shots, then lose another ball and go down to a single ball. Final Battle Ends.
Guess what two switches I missed? One for each ramp. In my eagerness to hit the the battlefield targets and keep balls in play, I completely forgot to switch the diverters. Oh well, one of these days.
Quoted from vid1900:Someone may have replaced the set screws over the years with the incorrect ones.
You want the CUP POINT screws, not the more common Cone Point.setScrews_diag_(resized).png
Are you able to buy the cup point screws as a cap screw anywhere, similar to this one at Marco (I think the Marco one is a cone point) ? http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4010-01066-06
Quoted from tonycip:Quick question My upper play field drop targets were sluggish so i took the assembly apart and cleaned it .
it was kind of gummy and I noticed some grease on them I cleaned it all off and just waxed all rubbing surfaces.
it's not suppose to have lube on it is it? one more thing there's a nut at the end of the solenoid that holds the reset bracket for the targets should that screw be tight or a little loose .. thanks TonyIMG_20140125_121328_514.jpg
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Referencing an old post here... I'd like to clean out the upper playfield drop targets because the left one is not dropping because it is sticking on the way down (meaning every 30 games or so I need to manually activate switch 85 in the test menu). I'm trying to repeat what was done in this post, but need some help removing the target assembly. Is it possible for me to remove this with out removing the whole battlefield? I don't want to get in over my head here. Any advice?
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:Nice Photo! How did you shoot it?
I used an iPhone 6s camera with the lens inverted to be close to the playfield as possible, tilted upwards.
In other news, Gasoline Alley's comic for today features The Shadow. Thought I'd share...
Quoted from PinballNewb:I don't have an issue with balls flying out of the wireform. I will say that maybe 15% of the time or so the switch will not register. Usually when it's the last shot needed to complete Vengeance! If I bend the switch out too much though the ball has a tendency to get stuck on weaker / not as clean ramp shots.
Try replacing with this switch, it should prevent the ball from getting stuck and should register the switches better: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5647-12693-08
Quoted from wisefwumyogwave:Anyone know where to get a replacment left ramp? Marco is out and said they dont know when they'll have them again if ever. I had to weld mine up because it was broken just about everywhere because the diverters were slamming into the ramp. Looks ok but my left exit area is broke at the 90 degree bend- put a good tack weld on it and broke again after a few shots, metal is just too thin there imo.
Yes, you're in luck. Check out Mantis. Much better quality than the originals. http://www.mantisamusements.com/shadow.htm
I like the ornate Chinese dragon design on the back wall, I haven't seen that one before, just the solid black, skyscape or red brick wall. You don't have much sanctum damage either so it should be good for a rebuild. If you are missing the speaker panel, I recommend reaching out to Aurich to see if he has any of his translite/speaker sets. They are becoming sparse, and he may not be doing any more reprints: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-alt-translite-nov-2015-run
Quoted from BulkOfTheSeries:I'm having this issue, but getting a different switch error #
Do these need to be taken apart and cleaned?
Yes, this is the solution. I had this problem with another switch (86 I think) ended up taking the drop target assembly out, cleaning, it, waxing the plastic and it fixed the problem. Generally if they stick, you'll get the error Slingshot is having every 30 games or so. When this happens, the targets won't reset within game, and you have to do the manual switch edges test to remove the error every 30 games.
Quoted from BulkOfTheSeries:I get this error every game. They don't reset for me even once.
Is this area easily deconstructed?
Have you gone into the switch edges and pressed the switch manually?
Quoted from swampfire:Well guys, I'm selling my membership in the club tomorrow. A nice HUO POTC came my way, and something had to go. TS is definitely the most beautiful B/W I've ever owned, and I'll miss seeing it in the lineup. I won't miss how bad I sucked playing it, though.
Have you played POTC much, it has limited replayability.
Quoted from holmstarrunner:I've had my Shadow for a year. I've beat final battle a few times...two weeks ago I got my first triple super jackpot and today I finally got a seven way combo! Game still brings me back for more. There is still a mode I've never beat. There are just so many rewarding challenges to this game.
Which mode?
Quoted from d0n:Hey folks here's a quick easy and cheap mod i did to better light up the sanctum area. My game was very dark and the coolest part of the game is watching the ball woosh into the sanctum.
The great thing about the spotlight is that its on at about 50% power all the time but goes to full brightness when a ball gets stuck on the magnet. It then shuts off and goes dark a second after the ball gets pulled into the sanctum. The ball collection in the sanctum is very dramatic now!
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Very cool, how did you set the light up to increase power when activated?
Quoted from jwo825:It's a code word used in the movie. To identify his secret operatives if I remember correctly.
Actually, I don't think so... I think the code word/phrase was "The Sun is Shining - But the Ice is Slippery"
Quoted from someoneelse:Kind of, yes, at least the cheating part. I'm still looking for a better solution to installing colored flipper rubbers while maintaining the original feel. I like how they play, but it does make the game easier so currently I've put the original ones back in the game.
The rubbers are easily exchangable to try different setups.
Sorry for the harsh reaction, I had the impression that your tip was meant as kind of a remedy to a faulty construction of the upper flipper. My bad.
I also like the purple rubbers, tried the super-bands but found them too bouncy and removed them. I then discovered a solution that works, Titan Competition rubbers, these are very similar to the original flippers and come in a variety of colors (including purple): https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=52
Here's what they look like in my pin...
Quoted from Luppin:Question about the Sanctum wall mod: I see it costs around 300$, which looks like insane.
Is it only a plastic, or does it make some kind of light effects? Is it worthed?
Are you referring to the brick wall or the city?
Quoted from Luppin:question for the Shadow owners with full led setup: how is it when you play it? is it disturbing for the eyes?
I have several pinball machines, but none ledded. On my Shadow I only put led on the 6 six scenes inserts, and its fine. looking at the pictures here, I have to say that fully ledded machines look great. But I am a player, more than a collector, so I wonder how it is to play machines with so many leds in your face...
I think it looks great in LED's, here's how I decked my Shadow out:
-Shadow is a darker game, so I didn't want to make it any darker than necessary. My Shadow is based on the old time radio show (not the movie from the 90s... Thank you Aurich) I aimed to use mostly Comet Pinball warm whites since it complements the golden, art deco motif of the pinball's golden age of radio theme. Warm white also doesn't distort the colors of the plastics.
-I added some green LED's under the mini-playfield. I wanted to get an eerie glow coming up through the cracks... Like the old green-eye radios.
-Most of the purple comes from the flasher, post lights, and mode inserts. I didn't add any into the GI.
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Quoted from BulkOfTheSeries:I color matched on the inserts with a few exceptions. I put purple in the arrow that points to the Khan saucer.
I used green in the modes instead of Purple. I though it popped more and with purple flashers, there's tons of purple going on. I put every color of bulb in there for a while, and green was what I liked best.
Don't put cool whites in the flashers under the caps or it'll be too bright.
LEDs are really easy and not very expensive unless you get lazy and buy a kit.
The COLOR DMD is basically a must for this thing, especially if you spent the $ for the Aurich and LEDs. After you sell the old DMD it only cost you ~ $200.
Do you have a photo of the inserts with the green leds? I'd be curious to see what it looks like.
Quoted from ziz:The ball should no get air off of that left target. Mine was doing this when I first got it as well. I cut some new foam and glued it in and also made sure the target was bent forward slightly, never happened again.
This is what you need. Add these reinforced target switches and you shouldn't have any trouble with airballs.
Quoted from ZMeny:Bos98, ever consider putting a yellow or warm white LED bulb behind the lantern on the translite? It adds a nice touch I think.
I use a slow blinking warm white from Comet Pinball. Pretty cool, looks like a flickering lamp.
Ok, Shadow fans... let's get some discussion going. What are your top 3 modes, and why?
1. Discover Hotel Monolith (easily my fav, multiple phases, and high scoring potential)
2. The Beryllium Sphere (love the zap and tension)
3. Escape Underwater Doom (cool scoring)
Quoted from DMC:For those interested in lighting the battlefield I used Comet Opmax in light sockets screwed into the back of the battlefield. The screws are already there - I just had to do a bit of bending and adjustment. I'm powering them of a DK Pinball Powertap, but you can easily use alligator clips instead. I do get some reflection off the mini playfield but it's not a bother. My OCD compelled me to fit two lights, but one (on the right to minimise reflection) will work fine.
I tried this, but it kept shorting out my GI. I think it had something to do with the metal being bent and touching something.
Is this likely?
Quoted from matt_adams:You don't have to do them in a row, just complete all 4 within the time.
I think if you start Vengeance with a combo, you will receive the Super Vengeance when completing all of them (irrespective of whether or not they are completed in a row). The key is to start it as a combo. Does this sound correct?
Quoted from Luppin:Opto switches 31 and 32 are at the entrance of the ramps: what is their purpose?
Potentially to cue the audio and DMD, not sure?
Quoted from Luppin:Yes, not identical, but still good.
Is IT?!
Quoted from Pesmerga:Thanks for your answer Luddite, any suggestion on how to repair the sanctum zone without canceling the writings and without buying those wrong colored decals? How did you guiys repaired yours?
Repaint the whole section, with the grey (the whole shape, don't try to paint part or you will see a line. I provided a formula in an earlier post: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/39#post-2674488
Then make a waterslide of the type and lay it over the grey area. You will then want to clear, mylar and wax. Here is my completed Shadow, after the Sanctum area was fully repaired:
Quoted from Pesmerga:Thank you for your help guys! I have 2 question more:
I've seen the suggested color kit in the link posted by jonesjb. Transparent colors are going to cover the jbweld properly? Opaque colors aren't better?
Waterslide decals are normal adhesive that can be printed by typography? There are any specifics that I must respect to prevent them from ruining (type of adhesive etc.)?
It is suggested to apply mylar on it or this will rise the playfield too much?
Sorry but I'm a newbie :S
PS please let me know where i can find that skyscraper decal/plastic you have in the back of the cabinet, I really like it
Yes, definitely use opaque. Regarding the waterslide, you NEED to print on a laser printer otherwise it will run.
The Skyscraper decal... I'm a graphic designer, and created the back image to match the sides. I made sure the colors were identical using a CMYK pantone swatch kit. I printed it out on styrene. There is another one out there for sale, but the alignment is off and it's unavailable.... So I made this. The other one doesn't have the halftone dots that match the plastics either. I was going to print and sell these but never got enough interest.
What about one of these things...
http://www.joann.com/picture-frame-rubber-bumpers/5612999.html
Quoted from Glarrownage:Yeah, brand new foam from Marcos. I can try to find something more firm or thicker. What foam are you using?
Replace the reinforced stand ups from Marcos. They will end your air balls. I tried the foam but didn't help much.
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:If you like "The Shadow" listen to go the Radio Show from the 1950s. Makes the Alec Baldwin movie even more embarassing. Available via free podcast for listening while you work or drive.
I bought this beauty two weeks ago, and listen to The Shadow and other old time radio shows. It's an ultra rare Zenith 12S267 from 1938. Sounds amazing.
Quoted from Aurich:Wow, the dial on that radio alone is amazing, what a find.
Yes, the green is a magic eye electron-ray indicator tube which moves to give a visual indicator of signal strength, it helps make it easier to tune into stations. The narrower the sliver is, the stronger the station.
Quoted from billsfanmd:How do you play old taped radio shows on it?
The radio has a audio in jack (not original - added to the chassis at a later point in time), I have a Bose bluetooth receiver attached, and I play the old time radio shows and music to that via my iPhone. Here is the receiver I use:
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:Try a frosted purple 6.3V strip with a Matrix bulb and wire from Comet, and in minutes in installs behind the battlefield
sign shining backwards.
If you want to control the brightness, and a brightness control.
Truly kicks ass!Comet has the best price, and they can handle 6.3V or 12v.
They are plug and play in a wide vaiety to your GI, Inserts or Flashers in minutes!
Slings and close posts are a must, a found some games dont need every post lit, especially towards the back,
but thats personal.
Ive done all 3 ...purple post with purple, white, and blue....all different all cool!
Did Comet ever release that LED strip with frosted white and with a 45 degree angle pitch?
Quoted from drsfmd:I LED'd the backbox and all of the inserts in the playfield in my Shadow tonight. I was a few flashers short, but wanted to share the results of the backbox. I may change it up a little bit... and I'd love your thoughts. Sorry about the reflection from the florescent fixture on the backglass.
I'll also add... what is the bulb number for the flasher in the mini-playfield?
I prefer to keep warm white (with maybe just one or two color LED's) behind the translite to let the natural colors shine through. Just my personal preference. I find when I put in color LED's there is lot of bleeding of light into other areas, distorting the color's next to the main color. Here is a photo of my backbox with warm whites (yes apples and oranges given I have the Aurich alt, but you get the idea). I have one or two green LED's in the Shadow type, because I wanted the green to seep into the mist (giving it a glow), aside from that everything else is warm white.
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:This Strip..still unnamed, runs on either 6.3 or 12v.
In the best plug and play method, only always on, or flashing with paddle currently.
The board that has been made
by another pinsider, its in the Jp thread,
might be adaptable to this need.
Or something like a miniature broad range
Motion sensor, or a connection to the logic.
Ultimately, I haven't seen an easy answer
But I think someone who builds a plug and play
answer for on only when active, would do well.
The 45 degree strip is 20 inches, and puts a nice segmented light in one direction, and at 45 degrees, full white bright!
So like on the back of an NBA
Fastbreak, it looks like Stadium
Lighting with the crowd backsplash,
and lights the whole back.
In the Shadow, back lighting shows
As a reflection on the mini playfield
This bothers some people, so putting it on the
Battlefield sign, fixed this.
Other strips come frosted, colors, and can be dimmed.
One can put one color on the battlefield and another on the right.....i like this way best.
Very exciting, I'm looking forward to this! Please keep us updated.
Quoted from Aurich:I still haven't, closest I've come is I think 4 shots away.
I made it to final battle once, did really well kept nailing shots, and kept the balls alive for a long time, but try as I might, I couldn't finish. When I finally lost my second to last ball, I noticed which two shots I missed... Two ramp shots... I forgot to hit each diverter! Very silly way to lose!
Quoted from Luppin:here my settings:
- Farley scene: 23 secs (this one shorter than default, here you want to reach the battlefield and hit few targets and the job is done or almost; 30 secs or more too easy to get to the battlefield and finish the mode)
- Guilty scene: 50 secs
- Sphere scene: 55 secs
- Escape scene: 45.000.000 (around 60 secs)
- Multi lock timer: 25 secs
- Mongol Hurry Up: extra hard (too easy otherwise and you get it too often)
- Battlefield level: 04 (starts at 50, enough challange since the beginning)
- Hotel ball save: 10 secs (a very hard multiball mode, divided in two parts. A slightly longer ball save time helps to reach the interesting second part (still pretty hard), otherwise you will not see it probably at all!
- Khan lit memory: NO (YES is too easy, you manage to get it even without aiming at it)
- Central hit ball save: YES (unfair drains otherwise)
- Who knows extra ball memory and skill shot extra ball memory: NO (awarded randomly, so you have been lucky! get the extra ball with the existing ball, otherwise you are asking for too much luck!)
- Extra ball percent: OFF
I checked my percentage of completing modes and they are around 4% to 8%: so it's still very tough to complete scenes, but the difference is I try it using skills and smart shots, keeping the ball under control. And not trying to shoot super fast hoping in a lucky series of shots, while getting instead many drains - hence stopping trying to complete scenes.
In this way the game is constantly super interesting, because you are constantly on your toes building up different tasks. And they all contribute building a high score, in a really balanced way.
Try and learn the subtleties of playing the game in this way: it's just amazing!
This is a great post, thanks for sharing. My instinct has always to keep the settings in default, as though not doing so meant that I was copping out as a pinball player. However after reading your post, I reconsider... I was thinking about it, your changes don't make it any easier to get to final battle wizard mode (so it's not cheating). Shadow's modes don't need to be completed, just played... So this works, it brings some more strategy into the gameplay, in areas that are only nuanced in standard play (locking balls during multiball, hotel ball save extension). Final battle is just as hard to reach, all this does is shift the indexing on your pinball machine.
Now if there was a pin that had timed modes that need to be completed, this would be another story.
What do others think?
Quoted from Luppin:Many of my settings are not actually easier, they are just different. First of all some has harder values, so they are... just harder. But also think about this: longer times for the mode helps a bit with finishing the mode itself, but on the other hand force you to keep the ball in play for longer, before you can start a new mode. So it may be harder to reach the Final Battle. In any case, TS really needs rules adjustment to be fully appreciated, no doubt!
Agreed. I like your settings also amplify the scoring importance of modes and multiball, potentially even making the game more balanced scoring wise and less reliant on the final battle for a high score.
Quoted from billsfanmd:Gonna led my shadow. Any new led pics? I like the blue and purple led look but this game is so dark a nice white also brings out colors. Anyone that can post a nice pf pic that would be nice. Thx
Here are photos of my restored Shadow. I used Comet LED's and highly recommend. In my opinion, you can go for a golden age Shadow (with warm whites) or use more cool whites, and go for more of a sleek Matrix-y shadow, giving it more of a sleek modern hue. You can go for lots of colors in the GI, but I think that washes out the art and darkens the payfield.
Since my Shadow is based on the radio show a la the tranlite (thanks Aurich). I've opted for using warm white throughout for 90% of the GI (most of the purple is coming from the flashers and the lit star posts). The golden hue of the white, is a perfect fit for the golden art deco look. The only color I have is under the battlefield, I was going for an eerie mysterious green to compliment the mist.
IMG_0538 (resized).jpg
IMG_0321 (resized).jpg
IMG_0381 (resized).jpg
IMG_0305 (resized).jpg
IMG_0869 (resized).jpg
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:One doesnt need to do them all, many may not be visible to an extant.
Just count up the ones you wish.
With Matrix, they respond to both GI Quick Connect as well as Flasher.
So whether you wish to Alligator clip, solder, or use a plug and play 2 headed connector,
you can achieve this pretty fast, and at a very affordable cost.
Do you know if Comet will be releasing the 45 degree frosted strips to use on the battlefield?
One recommendation I recommend is to use a warm white SMD strip above the flippers under the apron for a nice glow. You can see an example in my last image.
Quoted from Djshakes:Has anyone noticed that when you shot the scene hole next to the right ramp and quickly pull the trigger you initiate a duck quacking sounds. What do those quacks represent? Also, what is with the herd of cows that sometimes runs across the DMD making a mooing sound?
Get the duck to quack three times in three separate locations (khan, mode, battlefield kicker)... then shoot the mode for a surprise.
Quoted from jonesjb:I decided to experiment with different colored posts (purple, blue, teal) and lights (purple, blue). I went with purple posts with blue light. It creates a gradient of royal blue that works well with the Art Deco theme and playfield colors.
I've shared some photos for reference:And here is the comparison of purple in purple post and blue in purple post:
And the final result (blue light in purple post):
Here it is!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/48#post-2880013
What does the Khan multiball start timer do? The manual says: it's how long the Khan multiball lamp is lit once started.
I thought Khan stays lit once you get the 4 rollovers? Note this is different from the Khan ball save.
It's amazing how well designed this game is. Each aspect of the playfield has been created with intended purpose.
After owning my Shadow for over a year I was playing this morning and discovered something new... I originally thought the upper flipper has 3 shots (the battlefield, the loop,and the Khan hole). But there is actually a 4th: a clear shot to the Sanctum can be achieved by shooting at the rubber under Khan and ricocheting upward to the lock.
Is this common knowledge?
Doesn't sound like a switch issue. The ball launches by dropping the ball slightly then pulsing the Magnet. Assuming there isn't a dimple, just try increasing the incline of your machine. Shadow needs to be at 6.5 degrees, if it is too level, the sanctum won't work.
Quoted from romulusx:New Shadow this weekend' seems like a fun game so far.The only problem I seem to have is with
the battlefield.When you turn machine on it goes thru the solenoid process and the targets pop
up and then it seems to stutter but they stay up.During battlefield play the drop targets go down and
don't pop up until you turn off pin and turn it back on.There have been times were it worked fine,but
mostly they stay down Can anyone help with this issue Thank You
Assuming switches all work fine in the test, your drop targets are likely gummed up. This happened to my Shadow. I took them apart and cleaned them and it fixed the issue.
Quoted from romulusx:Can thefour bank drop target assembly be removed from the bottom or do you have to remove the battlefield
You can remove it from the bottom. it's just a few screws. You shouldn't need to remove the whole battlefield.
Quoted from cavalier88z24:You have to remove the battlefield to get to screws to remove the 4 bank target. pictures of the screws below
I was able to remove the drop targets by just flipping up the battlefield. I didn't have to remove completely.
Quoted from jawjaw:+1. I did this and cleaned mine up. Works better but still have issue where sometimes they don't go down when hit.
And while it is apart, I recommend waxing it so it will go down and up smoother.
I had the hum, but rebuilt the assembly underneath and fixed the Sanctum wear back to pristine. The hum then went away. I'm not sure if the fix was due to making the magnet touch the wood OR wood splintering was vibrating and disappeared when fixed.
Here are the ramps you want (by Mantis): http://www.mantisamusements.com/shadow.htm
Quoted from per3per3:I'd like to join this club and have been looking at a game but it's got an issue and I'm hoping to get some advice.
It's got some typical sanctum wear and a sanctum decal was applied a year or two ago (maybe longer) as a quick fix. The magnet has basically kinda melted the sticker thus making it look a bit worse but has caused a potential divot for the ball to rest in. Here's the real issue:
About half the time when you lock a ball, the magnet catches the ball, the wall opens, but the magnet doesn't launch the ball into the hole and eventually lets go of the ball and it rolls back down the playfield.
I've read that it could be a magnet positioning issue, perhaps the magnet needs to be positioned closer to the playfield? It catches the ball perfectly, it just fails to propel the ball into the lock.
Any thoughts/suggestions would be greatly appreciated. The machine seems to be in great shape otherwise. Is there any way to stop the magnet from doing any future damage to the playfield?
THANKS!!
This can be fixed. How much are they asking (to see if it's worth it)?
Quoted from per3per3:I appreciate the response but ultimately decided to go snag his really nice IJ. I have a few minor switch/opto issues to deal with but I'm thinking they're all minor things. It's a really nice machine (new cab, new decals, new side rails, very minimal wear) and I'm really looking forward to getting it to 100%.
If anyone in the DC Metro area is looking for a Shadow, I know where you can find one!
Agreed. $3K is a steal, for a pretty easy fix. Great game. What Indiana Jones did you get? Stern or Bally?
Quoted from per3per3:Not to offend anyone, but the good one
Williams all the way!
You chose, wisely.
I think Mike Chestnut's business is still in operation following his unfortunate passing. He replated my habitrails and they look good as new.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mike-chestnuts-plating-biz-continues-on
Quoted from freddy:looks like he needs to move a post and flip the plastic
I originally thought it was a flipped plastic, but this doesn't look like the case as the holes would be in the wrong spot.
Lamprey, I stand corrected. I checked and I can confirm your plastic is indeed backwards. There are four screws the plastic should be screwed in by the top two screws, this tapers the plastic so the ball rolls properly upwards.
Quoted from damadczar:Hope to join the cub in a couple days.
Found a nice Shadow for $3200 a couple miles from me.
A little more than I want to pay for it, but it's in fantastic condition working 100%. Practically no Sanctum wear.
Still a good price, you think?
Definitely.
Quoted from smiley:I wouldn't sell mine for that price.
Good price for the buyer, not the seller.
Quoted from Agent_Hero:I can stop bugging the local Pinsiders now that I got a Shadow. I put two spotlights on the playfield and one on the Battlefield. The cone that goes on the spotlight was too much of a distraction for me on the Battlefield, so after trying a bunch of colors I went with a flexible/bendie LED in red. My reasoning for using red is probably way over the top, but it's kinda to create a mood like in a stage production. Like if you were watching a performance of the Shadow in an old-time theater, they might cast red lighting to indicate a Battlefield scene.
I like how it really serves to cut off the Battlefield and draw attention to it as being completely separate and the fact that I don't notice the light source at all. Sure I lose the color of the art there, but the design is still visible and the orange inserts are still a bit of a contrast. I had a plain warm white light in the spot light but it just looked too plain--there wasn't much as far as interesting art to be featured up there. Not pictured is the Kenner Thunder cab topper.
I like it. The red also creates unity with the scarf. Did you try it with green? Might work with like the eerie green eye in the old radio shows.
Quoted from Agent_Hero:I don't have a green bendie. I tried some kind of extra bright green LED and it didn't look as appropriate for the art deco style. I think the green was too light compared to Shadow's green. Also, a normal bulb up there is kinda distracting. With the bendie, it lays flat so I barely notice it. I went through the entire thread over the past month and your LED layout is the kind of style I'm looking to get. My machine came with bright natural white LED's under the slings and near the flippers which brought out the blue and purple there, but like you've said in your posts, warm white is more common for an art deco style. For now, I only have incandescents available to have a warm white look in those areas.
I have green under the battlefield leaking through the cracks, but I really like the red up top and may give it a try. I worry that it may be too Christmasy, so I may try red up top and blue or purple underneath.
Quoted from damadczar:Also, I'm having a problem where the drop target for the battlefield doesn't come up or down during gameplay, but in test mode it will go up and down.... it's kind of driving me nuts.
Any ideas?
The drop target is likely getting grimy.
Quoted from RCA1:Did you mean left instead of right?
Yes, sorry thanks! I meant left (edited).
Quoted from someoneelse:Just replaced Aurichs great translite with this beauty. Love it, think this one will stay!
Beautiful. Where can I get one of these?
Quoted from TimeBandit:So, what's the usual bounce-out rate from the battlefield after the VUK fires? I'm finding about fifty percent of battlefield entries are bouncing out straight away and flying around the back half of the playfield.
Do I need to align my VUK wireform up a bit? Looks like it could be out, but it might be normal. I wouldn't know.
Yes you'll want to adjust that. I don't think I've had any bounce outs. Is it hitting the yellow standup?
Quoted from TimeBandit:So, what's the usual bounce-out rate from the battlefield after the VUK fires? I'm finding about fifty percent of battlefield entries are bouncing out straight away and flying around the back half of the playfield.
Do I need to align my VUK wireform up a bit? Looks like it could be out, but it might be normal. I wouldn't know.
I'm not in front of my Shadow to check, but I believe there may be a washer under the wireform base under one of the nuts. You can try to put a washer under here and it should tilt the wireform forward. Don't go bending the wireforms, you should be able to fix everything at the base.
Quoted from GRUMPY:I also need to get an idea of how many I need to build so I can order parts. The more kits the better the discount on the parts will be which translates in a lower cost for everyone.
Wait, what's going on? Is this some sort of device that activates lights in the battlefield when the ball is up there? If so count me in.
Quoted from GRUMPY:» YouTube video
I hate uploading videos, I hate making videos, what a pain in my a#%. Lets see if it works.
This looks great, what second delay is this, 2 sec?
Here's a tip I haven't seen posted, it's a tactic I use to reliably get the extra ball in video mode:
1. Play video good enough to get up to the $3 million.
2. When you get to this point, make your way to the right of the screen.
3. Remove your right hand and place it on the gun.
4. Tap the left flipper button as required to only move left and avoid the phurbas (it now becomes a timing game as opposed to a dodge one). When you get to the left side, and can't move any further left wait until there is a phurba coming at you and pull the trigger.
5. The Extra Ball should arrive during the reprieve.
6. Collect.
Quoted from GRUMPY:I tried mounting the light strip to, above, over and over while in front of the metal strip in the back. Always the same results for me, it reflected off the battle field and in my eyes. No bueno!
I am going to try it again but I need to find a light diffuser sheet first. I think this would be the best way to do it, but I just need to find the right stuff to make it work.
Comet was producing a led strip with frosted white, that sits at a 45 degree angle to solve this. I remember Arthur discussing it, it's likely available. I'll investigate.
Quoted from cavalier88z24:A few questions for the shadow owers. First what has everyone done about the left divertor right ramp switch?. I see some have installed long metal detent switchs that look stupied. I replaced with orignal part number and it gets stucks all the time.
Also where can i get a replacement kicker arm. Dont see it available anywhere. Its a square type. Mine has been rubbed down to nothing see picture. Its not square anymore.
Also im having a hard time with the battlefield. The kicker moves nicely in test mode. But during game play it moves slowly to the left. Is there a adjustment?
Also where do i get new set screws for the divertors ?
Thank u n jeremy. So close to finishing this game
For the left diverter, use a straight switch, but just use the shorter one.
From memory, I think this is the one, but double check:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/12-SMSW
Quoted from per3per3:Did you put Mylar on top of it? How about some details on how you applied the kwik wood?
Thanks!
I posted some advice earlier, try searching for my threads
Quoted from waldo34:Is it normal to get lots of airballs hitting the lower ramp? Thanks.
Not by hitting the ramps, but by missing and hitting the yellow targets. Try buying the reinforced yellow targets to minimize this.
Quoted from Cserold:Referring to thickness of the foam
The backing doesn't make much of a difference, I tried. You need the reinforced targets to solve the problem.
Quoted from pinbuoy:Wow that's a lot of work!
Have you seen photos of my Shadow? Trust me, a much larger portion of my time has been spent restoring it to it's current condition than editing the custom message 
Quoted from lpeters82:So this question came up in another thread. When you hold the third flipper does a looped ball often wind up in the Kahn hole? Please post your answer and slope setting.
Could be a good case for a poll. For what it's worth, my Shadow's upper flipper doesn't feed the hole. I've played about 3 other ones, and they didn't either.
Quoted from PinballNewb:Mine sounds like it is set up like yours. It can feed it, but it has to be a super clean shadow loop shot with the ball already having speed. Even then it's not a guarantee.
Welcome to the club. I recommend searching for some of my past posts. I've done a lot of experimenting with the led lights, and I provide example images and rationale. Ultimately you can go with a slick, action style with cool whites... Or a warm white art deco style akin to an old pulp mag. I went with the latter:
Here are two posts in particular. Let me know what you think:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/48#post-2860137
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/55#post-3130023
Quoted from Cserold:Here is what I did with the grumpy mod. Used both the GI and battle field active
Lighting. Mounted a purple strip in far back of cab above battlefield for the GI. Once the battlefield is active this strip turns off and two 6SMD pads turn on which are mounted to back metal brackets.
Here is you tube link and some other pics posted too. As always, the camera exaggerates the lighting.
» YouTube video
Looks really good, how did you attache the panels? Is there normally a screw there?
Quoted from Cserold:2. The back drop targets go down and stay down after the first time they are hit. I'm pretty sure that, previously, they wouldn't go down until you reached the number of shots required to beat the battlefield. Any ideas?
Thanks!
Craig
I had this problem before too, there is a build up of grime, you will just need to take the back droptargets down and clean them (I also added wax).
Quoted from BobC:I'd suspect it wouldn't work right as the timing pulses and power probably takes into account that 1/2 inch of wood
use the correct parts
Yes, I believe magnet pull increases exponentially as distance decreases.
Quoted from Maken:Orbits shouldn't center drain. Sounds like the ball is being bumped towards the center by something that is misaligned. Upper flipper?
Fixed!
I discovered a new bug in the Shadow code today. If you tilt on Khan multiball while the ball is in the Khan hole (multiplier), the ball stays in the hold for the remainder of the game and any new games until another multiballs is started. The next multiballs operates as with 4 balls then. I didn't try this with Shadow multiballs or the mode hold.
Quoted from GoChiefs70:This has probably been covered recently, but I have been away from pinball/pinside for a couple of years. Where is the best place to buy replacement metal ramps? Mine are original, and now the spot-welding fixes have broken loose. Is there a good way to repair them or just get new ones? Only place I could find any was Mantis. Any help appreciated.
Yes, just go with Mantis, their ramps are better than factory.
Quoted from per3per3:When the ball enters the battlefield, about 25% of the time the ball bounces off one of the stand-up targets and falls off the battlefield where it entered. The lip that is in place to prevent this really only stops the ball from falling off at that spot when it's moving very slowly. What have folks done to remedy this issue? Can you adjust the angle that the ball enters the battlefield? Any other solutions?
Thanks!
Adjust the vertical brass wireform with a metal washer or two under one of the screws (to tilt the angle as appropriate).
Anyone here getting an Alien? I only own one pin (Shadow), but am thinking of getting a companion pin. I think Alien and Shadow would work well in a two pin collection... both seem challenging, balanced, with various ways to play.
Quoted from PunkPin:for another option you can also check out post #1942 for a color formula that jonesjb came up with, i have heard that Apple barrel country grey is really close but not a perfect match in everyone's case dependent on the playfield
Also I recommend painting the whole grey area within the black lines, otherwise you will always have some sort of marking. I tried the feather approach, and as close as it was, I was able to see a difference due to texture. Here are photos with my mentioned formula, painted to the edges.
Quoted from robotron:shopped mine out today, all new plastics, stainless steel hardware, wax, grumpy mod wit extra gi led strip under upper playfield. i put 2 lights on the upper playfield wit blue leds. thanks to grumpy great mod!
Wow, love that last photo, what lights did you use for your setup on the battlefield?
Quoted from scheiny:Appears to be the further one that has the rubber sleeve.... if I'm understanding your question correctly.
Mine looks just like yours, see attached.
Yes, perfect, this is exactly the info I was after.
Quoted from Maken:Beat the final battle for the first time tonight on what was my ~6th attempt. Finishing the upper playfield targets first is key, I attacked them immediately this time around and it worked really well.
Final shot for me was on the mode start hole for 1 billion points... sniped it with 0 seconds left, what a rush!
Still feels like a keeper.
Zero seconds? I thought the Final Battle was untimed and only ended when you had one ball left?
Quoted from Tommy_Pins:How's the lasting ability with this pin. I'm leaning towards this for my next pin.
You won't regret it, I've had mine for 2 years and it never gets old. Probably the best value for money pin out there. Add the Aurich Translite, and it's perfect.
Quoted from Cheeks:You can check out the pins in my collection...I would probably say Shadow is my favorite game and I've had it for over 10 years.
Wow, you have an amazing collection, so that's saying a lot...
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:Find a good one and keep her!
It is hard, it is easy, it is fun, I love it, I hate it, I play it often, it will not leave my home unless Im buried in it!
Best all around game in so many ways! My Top 5!
Art, are you still getting an Alien? I'm still in for a L/E with fingers crossed. I think it would go great in a collection next to Shadow.
Quoted from tiesmasc:And... I'm calling this done. Not perfect but damn close (as the slight color variation is not noticeable at all without a bright camera flash or even with the flash from the view of someone playing the game).
Picture is as received, then sanded and epoxied (JBWeld), Airbrushed, and finally decaled and mylared.Now I can clean the playfield again, wax, replace bulbs, and start putting it back together...
(and get onto some more potentially difficult fixes like the GI connectors J120 and 121 and battlefield drops not resetting after hit).
Did you clearcoat?
Quoted from pinballjah:Recently joined the Shadow club. Does anyone know if you can buy the right hand side plastic anywhere (below is a picture of the broken piece)? Also, I noticed on the mini playfield, the ramp from which the ball enters the mini playfield seems to be too close to the bottom two targets. Can this problem be resolved easily? I have attached a couple photos of the playfield. Thanks for your help!
Yes, put a washer or two under one of the wireform screws to tilt the angle to the playfield.
Quoted from Cserold:Awesome man. It's a keeper no doubt. Still think it's the best game ever made. Can't explain it but it's all I really want to play
And it's especially the best pin to own in any one pin collection. No question about it.
In a one pin collection is say it may even have longer lasting appeal than the top 5 pins.
Quoted from yellowghost:Has anybody replaced the ring bulb with these..I know roadshow uses something like this .
Would this look good? I'd think it'd be too dark.
A
Quoted from Robertstone0407:Picking up my shadow finally.besides color dmd any must have mods
-Aurich translite
-Cityscape
Quoted from Robertstone0407:So I'm torn,should I powdercoat my shadow jet black or a dark jade green OR do a black to green fade. Picture of my work here
Definitely not green or a green fade.
Quoted from PinMonk:Random picture. Was looking through pics and ran across the last Shadow I had where I was experimenting with powdercoating the ramps. I really dig the way the black one looks in front of the battlefield. The blue one isn't the right color blue, but I think it's the right direction. I'll probably experiment with the blue a little more (and maybe a brick red since that one goes over the red brick sanctum plastic - it might blend with the brick wall mod on the back of the playfield, too) when I get the next Shadow.
In my opinion, I'd suggest not to fix what isn't broken. The brass looks perfect, and reflects the art deco age of the theme. It's good to have contrast with the playfield and unity with the wireforms.
Additionally, the brass is one of the many things that makes Shadow unique, most pins have the classic silver wireforms. Brass is special here, so I can't see hiding it in any way. Maybe that's just me?
Quoted from sebo:Yes I did it myself, I find it matches the shadow pinball theme very well. In reality it looks much better but my phone has not a very good camera.
I wonder how shiny gold/brass decals would lookin the battlefield targets. Just metallic gold, no designs.
Quoted from xsonics2k2:Thanks. Kinda hard to tell w/ those pics so I’ll try to rally and get a video up for anyone else on the fence.
I'm curious too. Thinking of getting a color screen. LED or LCD any advice?
Quoted from PinMonk:The LEDs are too intense, so I'm sticking with LCD.
Can't you dim the LED?
Quoted from PinMonk:If it's transparent, aren't you just talking about mylar? The decals are non-transparent to cover up burn/wear marks from the magnet.
I think he’s after a Sanctum water slide.
Quoted from delt31:Thanks what's the easiest way then to reach the bulbs? Are you saying it's not necessary to take apart?
Hey delt31 good to see you here over from The Alien thread, seems we have similar tastes in pins. Have you had Shadow for a while? Yes these are the socketed lights you should use on your rings: http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=39
Quoted from mwong168:A friend found this city scape image and saved it a while ago. I printed and made my own decal. Sorry for the sideways image
I've created artwork from scratch similar to the Lost Plastic mod. I built it all in vector, fixed the alignment, made window sizes consistent and relative, changed some of the less refined buildings, and added in the halftone sky (vs the smooth gradient). I also used a Pantone-CMYK color book to match against the plastics so when it’s printed out it matches the original colors correctly. I like how the plastic fits with the theme.
Quoted from delt31:Thanks. I ended up buying 4 of each type - why not.
This game has really surprised me. I bought it recently hearing it was a true value and with that alternative art package I decided to give it a shot. Well damn if it doesn't have the best upper PF I've played yet - like alleway and the movie is really downplayed with limited speech (although still some crazy lines). It just works and with the updated LEDs, and some other mods, it's looks really nice. Def holding on to it.....
oh - any there is literally no wear on that magnet and it wasn't relabeled (color matches perfectly) - maybe just lucked out.
delt31 check out the
Luppin rules in this thread. You’re welcome
Quoted from mwong168:Agree with previous poster and here is my Shadow with warm white leds from Comet.
Purple Passion from Comet works too!
Quoted from jonesjb:I wanted to create some art to put in the back of the pinball machine, but wanted something with a halftone gradient fade. Created this from scratch... It's similar to the other mods out there, but made sure the alignment was on point. I just have to match the proper pantones. I may also turn off the lights in some of the windows.
I posted this earlier. Complete with Pantone and halftone dots. I had to print it myself on semi gloss photo paper and use adhesive to stick.
Quoted from gnome:Found a couple A-20417 Shadow Repair Kit, Pinion Gear 50032 . Any interest before I throw them on Ebay? Looking at $30 each if I don't have to pay ebay fees.....
Sounds good, can I please buy one? I'll send a PM.
Quoted from bballfan:CPR has plastic sets available again if you need them
http://www.classicplayfields.com/store-plastics.html
Have these been fixed?
Quoted from wolfy:Where can I get a back board decal of the city buildings with yellow windows. I see it on most of the machines on this thread. Thanks
PM me.
Quoted from lpeters82:What's the deal with the green dot? I've seen them before but didn't know why people were adding it to their games.
It's so people know where to aim, kind of like an easy to see target.
Quoted from Parzival:Still looking for a green dot if anyone has a spare
Staples still gas packs of green dot stickers available: https://m.staples.com/Avery-3-4-Round-Print--Write-Color-Coding-Labels-Green-Neon-1008-Pack-13954-5468/product_538066
Quoted from yellowghost:Most bizzare thing I've seen. What is the purpose of that coil? Only thing I can think is the empty coil is being used a extra magnet. But shirley its too far away to effect the ball.
The coil is part of the super LE version of the Shadow.
Quoted from Hjbondar:Anyone looking to sell their Shadow?
What is the current going price on a Shadow anyway?
Quoted from Pesmerga:I'm having problems in the mini playfield ramp adjustment. Since sometimes the ball falls down to where i came I have to adjust the upright ramp. I have already tried to unscrew and move it but that's seems to be the better position I can get is it possible that the miniplayfield is wrong positioned although the fixing post is in the right point??
Best thing to do here is to use one or two of the washers on one or two of the screws to tilt the angle of the vertical wireform so it works properly.
Quoted from SeaLawyer:Oh man, I played The Shadow tonight at Black Cat in DC. TRULY one of the greatest pins ever made!! So many awesome shots, ramps, combos, modes, etc!! This WILL be my next pin!
And even a hidden secret mode.
Quoted from VolunteerPin:Man, I’m loving this game! Waaay under rated imo. $4500 got me a nice example with nickel powder coating, pin stadium lights, color DMD, alt trans light, ocd led board. Cab has a few dings but playfield very nice.
Congtatulations. Shadow is easily one of the top 5 most underrated pins.
Quoted from Demoman1:Hello Group, Just picked up my first SHADOW and am loving it. Thinking of installing an LED kit. Which kits do you think works best in it. Or do I purchase individual LEDS, if so, does anyone have a list of bulbs and locations? Appreciate any thoughts on the subject from Pinsiders who have LED their Shadow. Thanks, Brad
Search through some of my earlier posts. I do a detailed breakdown of different light styles, across lit posts, cool and warm lighting. I recommend Comet Pinball lights, and doing your own lighting as opposed to going with a kit.
Quoted from Lamprey:Yeah, avoid kits. I also like warm white bullet lights for all the GI lights. I'll admit I color matched my inserts but, if I was to do it again, I wouldn't bother. Just get a pack of natural white for inserts and you you'll be good to go. This is all personal preference and I see the why people do it but, I'd suggest not trying to add colored bulbs all over the place. I suggest sticking with warm white to show off the artwork as intended.
Also see:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/no-rainbow-puke-club-post-pics-of-worst-color-gi-fails
Here are some of my earlier posts where I explore the different lighting approaches on Shadow:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/48#post-2860137
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/48#post-2863623
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/48#post-2880013
Quoted from PoMC:Here are pics of the stadium lighting I made for Shadow - actually make it for all my games - but the results on Shadow are exceptional. The entire playfield is well lit evenly so you can clearly watch the ball get thrown behind the wall and the Battlefield is evenly lit. I see guys installing all sorts of spotlights and LED strips to try and light the Battlefield with not so great results.
The stadium lights will also reduce the glare from the translite if you have it bursting with rays of light from LEDs (like the photos a few posts up). Not sure how that game can be played with the bright glare from the translite reflecting on the glass?
My inserts are LED but the GI is still incandescent bulbs because you don't need the LEDs to help light the playfield. So the GI will still fade and the GI looks WAY better with normal bulbs anyway.
Can you light only certain areas with the stadium lighting? Or is it the whole pin or none of it?
Quoted from Paul_from_Gilroy:Heck yeah. Different people see things differently. When I look at the two translites, the original looks like it was created by a talented artist. The replacement, not so much. On the original, the art is corny, much like the movie and the in-game callouts. It features most prominently Lamont, the wealthy man-about-town, Margo, the socialite, Khan, the Shadow's archenemy, The Shadow himself... the characters you encounter in the game. I'm not saying I think it's a masterpiece, but I don't hate it. The replacement looks less interesting to me so I never bothered to get one. It's perfectly OK that a lot of people (most people?) see it differently and have other opinions. I will admit, Doug Watson used essentially the same style on Indiana Jones, with Indiana Jones (Harrison Ford) prominently displayed on the translite, and I always liked that translite more than the one he created for The Shadow.
Harrison Ford isn’t on the Indiana Jones backglass. At least not the Bally Williams Pinball Adventure one.
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:Pre-order list people have until July 31 to fulfill their spot...after that, it’s first come first serve to what wasn’t purchased by the preorder list.
Check that the coil is staying screwed in tight and isn’t getting loose quickly (due to poor threading).
Quoted from Squeakman:I'm not sure what it is but when I look at brass it just looks cheap to me. I've never been a fan of gold or brass. I'm just really curious what a game done all in chrome looks like.
Brass works because it makes light reflections and ambience a warmer white (better embodying the Art Deco era).
Quoted from PinballNewb:Just finished a game where I was 2 shots away from completing Final Battle. The mode start scoop and the right orbit. Easy shots and I failed. Arrrrgh!!!
The only time I got to final battle; I lost with 2 switches to go too. I forgot to switch the ramps, and these were the shots I missed 
Quoted from Scoot:Is it ok that I join he club? My first wishlist pin!
Thanks to fellow pinsider ScottinSGFNY for the sale!
[quoted image]
Congrats and welcome the club!
Beautiful photos.
I think if one pin would work as a reskinned Batman (in particular the 89 Tim Burton Movie), it would be The Shadow. The character Batman was inspired by Shadow... The Battlefield would work as the bell tower, I'm sure there is something you could do with the phurbas. The Sanctum/Batcave, Shiwan Khan/Nicholson's Joker, Rings/gadgets/Joker pranks. It would be amazing.
Has anyone watched the Dead Flip Deadpool stream? The pin looks like a lot of fun. There seems to be a mode very similar to vengeance mode called Katana-Rama Time. You need to light the 3 gems on each of the two katana blades. Here is a link:
Quoted from gunstarhero:Question for y’all... when I power up my Shadow it always fires the shooter once. Is that normal behavior? I’ve checked all my switches and connectors and they seem to be sound.
I think this was added in a later ROM.
Quoted from gunstarhero:Huh, that would be weird. Wonder why?
I was half wondering if my shooter switch might be a little flaky.
It's because if you turn the ball off after a tilt, there is no way to plunge the ball, so it does this, just in case.
Quoted from Scoot:The back of the playfield and the battlefield does not allign when the battlefield playfield is fully down and locked. Is this normal? It plays well and hardly noticeable when playing. Just curious.
[quoted image]
There is a good chance the battlefield is not fully down. Maybe wiggle a little where the screw is.
Quoted from BioBa:Does anybody know the part number of the coil stop of the yellow mini playfield kicker. It's not listed in the manual?
Hey Fortitude Valley! I lived in Brisbane for 10 years, how is the pinball scene in Brisbane these days? I have to get back, so many friends there.
Quoted from isJ:I have been working on getting The Shadow up and running/balanced/lit up and all that good stuff. Now that the game is a bit more playable, I am finding that the left loop is basically a drain 90% of the time without a nudge. I looked at the metal guide, and it appears that there is a 'crease' in the guide -- I'll snap a pic, but the orbit is almost assuredly a drain stdm if it exits slowly. I haven't looked to see if it bounces off the post at the end of the metal guide, or if the crease is the cause of the issue.
Is this normal? Anybody else have this issue? The game is already hard enough, I don't need an auto-drain from a common shot!
As in it comes out on the right? Try adjusting your upper right flipper.
Quoted from isJ:I am speaking about the left loop with the Mongol hurry up shot. The game is resetting right now, so I have other things to tend to -- hopefully I can drain soon again!
Fix your upper right flipper. Perhaps take a photo.
Quoted from isJ:The ball travels as outlined in this photo. I am just wondering if the guide is creased in this spot for anyone else or if the post sticks out a bit and seems to be causing the ball to drain sdtm for anyone else.
It sounds like it's abnormal and I'll look to fix it since
its frustrating for players who come over and drain off it repeatedly.
[quoted image][quoted image]
I don’t think the metal wall is inserted correctly. From memory, the metal tab should be inserted into the playfield. It looks like is popped out.
Quoted from Scoot:In the mode “Discover Hotel Monolith” the game will spit out 2 balls and occasionally it will give me 3. I assume this is a 2 ball multi ball and not 3?
Correct. 2 ball multiball. Although it would be interesting to see the mode with an add-a-ball.
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:Ive finally added a few new gun Grips in exotic wood my store.
Black Walnut, in Hand rubbed....Ill be adding a shiny one soon....
Blonde Maple....At a lower price, $49 inc shipping.
These can get a light sand and stain, if one wishes to go with any other colors.....
and one pair of Mercury Dime inlay in Walnut....
Thanks for all the support![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Highly recommended. I bought Art’s grips with the Mercury Dimes and they are beautiful. They really make a visual impact and feel great in the hands.
Quoted from Pingball:Excited to be part of the club!
Picked up this beautiful machine a few days ago in a trade, loving it so far.
Plays almost perfect, just one issue I'm hoping someone can help me with:
The VUK fires the ball into The Battlefield pretty damn fast. Often the ball will bounce off the opposing targets and back down into the VUK.
Checked the coil and it matches the AE-25-1000 listed in the manual.
Any thoughts?
[quoted image]
Try tilting the angle of the VUK with a washer or two on one of the screws.
Quoted from delt31:I believe someone posted that backboard decal (city scape one) - can you repost again? Thanks
I created one from scratch as a vector file, with proper alignment and a CMYK color mix that will match the original pantones when printed. I also built in a halftone comic book gradient to match the style of the plastics. Reach out and contact me if interested.
Quoted from allsportdvd:Thanks for the link
Ministry of Pinball is closed down for a week and I can’t seem to buy from Pinwitch
Any other suggestions here?
Wait a week?
Quoted from Manny65:I noticed the welds had broken recently at an event and checked after reading your post - sure enough the diverter has been hitting that side of the ramp and you can see the ramp wall flex now that the weld is not holding it in place. Thanks for your post
If your ramps are broken, I highly recommend these reinforced replacements:
https://mantispinball.com/product/shadow-ramp-a/
https://mantispinball.com/product/shadow-ramp-b/
Quoted from yellowghost:Tried purple and blue. Still deciding which to use or go back to white or black.[quoted image]
Definitely translucent.
So I’m taking the advice of fellow Shadow owners and am buying some Pin Stadium lights. What flasher option do you recommend (if at all). The site recommends U/V, but that seems a bit much? I also don’t think I’ll be needing the GI module. Any advice?
Quoted from Burley9043:I have always purchased the UV Glow for my machines and have been very happy with it. Scott will tell you it is the most popular and I would recommend it. You need the GI module. Though they say the Invisible-Shield is recommended, it is really a preference. I don't have it on my Shadow because they were not available when I bought the lights, but I bought them for my Iron Maiden. You should check out some videos to see the difference.
I’m thinking the UV would clash with the Art Deco theme. But good to know it can be disabled.
Also does the GI module do anything though on Shadow, since it doesn’t have interactive GI?
Quoted from holmstarrunner:Shadow does dim the GI with the magnet lock. If you have LEDs and no LEDOCD, then I don't think you'll need it. However, if you do, you'll lose most of the effect.
Thank you for this info. I didn’t realize this, I only thought the GI effects were where the RGB color changes like in Star Wars. I’ll get the GI feature (and likely the UV flasher since I have purple flashers so this should fit best).
Quoted from Cserold:Are you kidding me? Outside of misrepresenting or not providing support, I will never understand the logic of people referring to any business that is selling a viable product to a customer base that is receptive of the product/pricing as a "money grab". That is what business is folks. Making as much profit as you can off your intellectual property, product or service while maintaining the perception of "value" on the consumer's side. This guy made a very, very cool product that is obviously priced correctly based on the "making bank" comments on this thread. People don't spend months/years in R&D to create a product and then price it just above time and material to create a unit. Good lord. Quit your crying and go glue some LED strips to the sides of your game if you want a cheap ass solution.
Totally agree, Pin Stadium seems to me to be a premium quality product that delivers. I'd rather have something with all the bells and whistles that makes my pin look beautiful, than a budget product that has corners cut just to deliver on the cheap.
Quoted from delt31:Shadow with pinstadium by request
[quoted image]
Very beautiful! Thanks for sharing. Which flasher color did you go with?
Nice city decal 
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:I will be having my only sale on Custom Wood Gun Grips for your Shadow Pinball!
Each set will be $10 off with Free Shipping!
Once they are Gone....Thats it! No more to be made!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I highly recommend these... they feel very solid when you launch the ball and are very distinguished.
I installed a ColorDMD and some Pinstadium lights in my Shadow this weekend. Such a wonderful upgrade to a beautiful pin.
Photos were all taken in a completely dark environment. There is such a difference to the battlefield visibility too!
F9BE8AA0-0233-4661-9E47-47B2C23E4505 (resized).jpegCBCBF672-FB06-4BC7-90F8-82BD9D07D70A (resized).jpeg32B245A6-962E-4ADC-92BF-22B8A0122C15 (resized).jpeg1C839CFE-E33A-4ACE-A667-FF7CD2136C38 (resized).jpeg
Before (for reference):
26DCEE8C-44AD-497A-97D4-9AAAFC9613EA (resized).jpegQuoted from Coz:Ok. Just wanted to make sure I got the correct one. I didn’t know if it was some crazy unique size. Thanks
It's very important that you buy the ones with a cup point style, not flat, cone or etc.
Cup Point (resized).jpgQuoted from msj2222:where are you guys sending the guns for plating? I just installed the wood handles and now the gun needs updating!
I wonder how a brass replanting would look.
I recommend checking out the recent Special When Lit pinball podcast, there is an interview with Brian Eddy that goes into the development of Shadow quite a bit.
Sounds like the Mongols originally would pop out like a meld between the trolls in Medieval Madness and the AFM Martian Attack.
Quoted from okgrak:I found this gem on eBay. "Shopped out and plays great".
Best sanctum wear I've seen.
[quoted image]
Nice! How much was it?
Quoted from tiltmonster:I've been busy working on my machine... so far I've repaired the Sanctum wear and installed the decal from Trident, installed new black flipper bats, new Titan black rubbers with purple flipper rubbers, new light blue star posts, all new Comet LED bulbs/flashers and a fresh driver board rebuild from Chris Hibler (Highly recommended). Next on the list is a ColorDMD (I may swap out my Getaway LCD and get the LED panel for it, tbd) and waiting the Aurich art package. I love this pin! [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Get LED, not LCD for Shadow.
Quoted from tiltmonster:Oh, why's that, is it better? I'm good with either but that would save a few bucks...
Here’s something I posted on the LCD vs LED thread... copying here since I thought it was a good summary:
I definitely prefer the LED. Much brighter and looks clearer, vibrant with no washout. LCD even looks a little bit pixelated (like the difference of looking at an older MacBook screen after seeing the Retina display).
IMO ColorDMD is not here to help us pretend that our mid 90s pin is a modern masterpiece by denying it’s a dot matrix. There is an art in the simplicity of the dot animation that’s lost in the filters of the LCDs.
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