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(Topic ID: 46571)

The Shadow Club

By marsgnu

7 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 7,798 posts
  • 611 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 hours ago by GRUMPY
  • Topic is favorited by 209 Pinsiders


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Post #73 Insert LED bulbs and colors Posted by MnHotRod (7 years ago)

Post #4322 Alternate Shadow Translite and Speaker Panel Posted by Aurich (3 years ago)

Post #4328 Shadow Manual Rubber Ring Chart link Posted by vireland (2 years ago)

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#1788 5 years ago

Hi all, I'm thinking of biting the bullet and joining the club. I have the opportunity to buy a Shadow in the $3-4K range. Here are some photos of The Shadow I'm looking at purchasing. I'll be traveling out to test it in person.

I'm relatively new to the pinball scene. Can you please recommend there anything I should keep an eye out for, or if you see any red flags in the photos that I should be wary of? Thanks all, I appreciate expertise and advice!









#1818 5 years ago

Am I the only person who prefers the monotone DMD's compared to the multi-color DMD's? I'm not sure why, but I like the monotone look. I think it may be due to DMD's having limited dots to play with, the multi-color comes across as a bit gaudy and blocky (like a kid's toy Lite-Brite), whereas the design of the monotone DMD seems to have more unity...It's like trying to color an Ansel Adams.

Having said that, I think the different monotone color DMD's can look beautiful (such as the green TS I've seen here and red BSD).

#1836 5 years ago
Quoted from Circus_Animal:

Biggest things are playfield wear in front of the Sanctum and the plastic rings above the ramps. Sanctum looks fine in the pictures (there will probably still be a small indentation if you actually touch it but this is pretty standard on The Shadow). The rings are all there in the pictures, but check them for damage, especially around the holes for the screws. These cost a couple of hundred to replace. Other than that, play the game- particularly the Battlefield- and as long as there's no major problems, it looks like it's in pretty good condition.
EDIT: What is the 6th photo (the inlane) supposed to be showing? Usually close-ups like this mean there's damage there but I'm not seeing any. Might be a good idea to check with the seller why that photo is in the ad.

Thanks Circus_Animal, I'm going to check it out this weekend. I'll pay close attention to the area shown in photo 6, that's a good point and nothing seems to stand out in the photo. I see you are a Sydneysider? Nice, I lived there for many years before moving to the US. I used to frequent the Darlo Bar to play their W2O. Newtown was a good place for pinball too.

#1846 5 years ago

I just purchased my very first pinball machine, a Shadow! I was deliberating between a Shadow and a W2O, and I think I chose wisely (W2O is amazing too, and there can always be pinball number two).

I notice that there is a slight hum and vibration on the Inner Sanctum lock, right before the ball is pulled back. Is this supposed to be normal, or should I look to fix?

As a side note, I am very new to pinball machines, and may have some questions on my Shadow... I'll try to search and find solutions first, but is it better for me to make new topics for each issue/question or can I post in this thread?

#1850 5 years ago
Quoted from PoMC:

Yup, almost like the game has a weak shaker motor inside. Hum is the magnet engaging too.

Ah, so this is normal? I didn't notice it first and thought this may indicate that something needs to be tightened/fixed.

#1854 5 years ago
Quoted from TaTa:

Welcome to the hobby! I too live in Bensalem and have a Shadow. Your more than welcome to PM me and we can talk and possibly meet up. There are several of us locally that have one. So any question should get answered.

Sounds great, I appreciate it. Great that there are local Pinsiders around, with the same machine nonetheless!

#1856 5 years ago
Quoted from jwo825:

When I got my Shadow it had a very loud hum but it also had a decent divot in the sanctum. I repaired the area when I tore it down. I didn't adjust the magnet or the bracket underneath. The only thing that changed was the amount of material above it. I can still hear it hum, but before it was three times as loud. Has anyone else noticed machines getting louder once a divot starts to form?

Yes, I'm curious, do other Shadow's hum too? Is there anyone who has a perfectly silent Inner Sanctum wall?

#1880 5 years ago

I'm looking to replace some of the GI lights in my Shadow and I've looked in the manual, but can't find a location map of each of the lights. I see the General Illumination circuits (on 2-43), but no information of how many for each of the GI strings. Am I just missing it? Is a breakdown available anywhere?

1 week later
#1909 5 years ago

Does anyone have any Sanctum water slide decals they'd be interested in selling? I'm looking to buy 2 or 3 (so I have a backup just in case one rips). If so, please PM me, thanks!

#1921 5 years ago
Quoted from Aurich:

Buy that for sure if you want one now. But I am going to do another run as soon as I can find enough free time to work on it. Both my day job and Alien are busy right now, just hard to find the time at the moment.

My money is ready and waiting, please take it!

#1929 5 years ago
Quoted from Aurich:

Okay, just have to say this: if you don't have the ColorDMD in your Shadow then sell some plasma or your body on a street corner, come up with the $400, and get rid of that orange display that will never grace my Shadow again.
This video really doesn't even do it justice, since it's a camera pointed at an LCD screen and just doesn't show the colors as vibrant as they really are. Plus it's set to tile mode, and everyone knows the DotsXL are the best, keeps that nice round original look.
» YouTube video

Does the ColorDMD also have the capability to run in Monochrome of a given color like the other colorDMD's (like this one: ? So for example, do I have the option to run the shadow DMD in solid green OR in the multicolor DMD that has just been released? Or do I have to select one or the other when buying? I'm hoping this Shadow color DMD would give me the best of both worlds?

#1938 5 years ago

I have a gameplay strategy question, in particular how to maximize the bonus multiplier. I understand that the scenes are only added when the bonus is applied, but the multiplier is only added to non-scene points. How do you actually accrue large numbers of these non-scene points that can be multiplied? Any tips?

#1942 5 years ago

I'm very new to pinball so don't have much to offer in the way of pinball advice/support/help (just yet). However, I have been painting since the age of 5... So here's something I can share, to give back for all the help I've received from you guys on Pinside.

I've been doing a Shadow Sanctum rebuild and wanted to match the grey paint as close as possible. I wanted to be able to replicate the mix in case I needed more, so I ended up tracking exactly how much of each color I put in. Here is my formula... Maybe there is a simpler one out there, but this is pretty darn close to the Williams color.

I used Createx airbrush paints (as recommended by Vid1900), I bought these from Amazon: link » I also purchased a purple Createx.

Here is the mix formula (I used drops, as they are all pretty equal in volume):

White: 98 drops
Yellow: 30
Black: 6
Red: 2
Green: 2
Blue: 1

The Shadow playfield grey color may be slightly different per pin, so you may need to add a drop of a color to tweak at the end, but this will get you very, very close. I hope this helps people trying to fix this common problem with The Shadow!

#1960 5 years ago
Quoted from PoMC:

Great info! I'll be doing my Sanctum repair soon.

Great! Let me know how it goes, and in terms of tweaks:
-Should your paint mix be too yellow, add a drop of purple.
-Should your mix be too purple, add a drop of yellow.
-Then test your tint and lighten with a drop or two of white as required.

1 week later
#2063 5 years ago

I don't mind the purple in the mode inserts, I think they look nice, but as one shade of purple (as opposed to different blues and purples). I'd recommend purple vs white if you are going to be bringing other purple into your Shadow, such as with flashers and posts (tying the colors together with more unity). If you are going to keep everything as factory, I'd recommend keeping inserts white, but this is just my opinion... Go with whatever works for you!

3 weeks later
#2112 5 years ago

So I'm finishing up my Shadow rebuild and I have a question on how it goes back together. Why didn't I take pictures, I did... Unfortunately my MacBook Pro hard drive decided to go mid rebuild and I lost them. Timing! I'm currently trying a restore so fingers crossed...

Is there supposed to be a rubber sleeve on the front metal post of the population, or just the back?

#2121 5 years ago

I'm not sure if it is sun fade on the scarf because the highlight color on the right doesn't seem to have faded too. I woul think both colors would get lighter simultaneously. This may be a printing issue, are all reds on the playfield the same color?

#2126 5 years ago
Quoted from ALY:

I have the same on mine. Just on the back, but would like to hear why is it like that.

If this is as intended, I suspect it is because the back metal post takes the brunt of the impact. Having rubber on both posts may make the ball bounce out more.

2 weeks later
#2174 5 years ago

Oldpinguy, have your new matrix strips been released?

#2190 5 years ago

Looks beautiful. I like how you've focused on pulling out the blue and gold.

I've been looking to add some spotlights to my Shadow but am unsure how to proceed... Are there any guides on what materials are needed and what socket on the GI should I attach the lighting wiring to? For example in terms of materials, I get that I'll need the spotlight and LED, but for example what size post/ additional screws/nuts would I need to mount it (how does it attach to the slingshot, etc)?

1 week later
#2233 5 years ago

I'm finishing up my Shadow rebuild and I've noticed the ball gets stuck on the wireform when coming off the right side of the right diverter ramp. It hits the bottom of the wireform from the shooter lane (it gets stuck on the bottom wireform). Is the top wireform screwed in incorrectly (too low)? Or should I just bend up the ends of the wireform (is it currently tapering down too far). I recently had these replated, so it's possible they have changed in shape slightly. How do your Shadows look here?


#2235 5 years ago

Will do, I'll add another washer to raise it up. Question though, the existing washer, that should between the wireform and nut right? I didn't put that back in the wrong spot did I?

#2237 5 years ago

I looked a some photos on the net and it looks that the washer is in the correct position. I've added in two washers underneath and it fixed the problem! Thanks for the advice balboarules.

#2238 5 years ago

I previously posted my paint formula for the Shadow grey earlier in this thread. I received my rebrassed wireforms and finally put my Shadow all back together.

Here is what the paint color looks like for reference: My completed Sanctum repair, all fixed, repainted and Mylar protection to keep it safe moving forward.


#2264 5 years ago
Quoted from balboarules:

Been shopping and repairing my Shadow for a few days, coming along nicely, I was trying to brighten up the battlefield, but everywhere I tried an LED strip I got glare from the strip, so I thought about adding a spot light in the top left corner, it worked out very well actually.. pictures taken with no flash, used a cool white non ghosting LED.. could do any color, but the one spot did the trick, I was going to put them on both sides, but found that just one was good enough. I added a spacer and changed the screw to a longer one for that post to raise up the spot.DSC01892.jpg DSC01893.jpg DSC01894.jpg

I really like what you've done here. Can you let me know what screw sizes/spacers you used for this configuration?

#2283 5 years ago
Quoted from madtown:

What am i missing? i bought my first pin a year ago or so (TS) and have enjoyed it but after figuring out what i'm actually doing i have several issues with it. i think the object (?) of the game is to get to wizard mode (have not done it yet!) which would make the ramps/diverters/vengence as well as mongol hurry up/shooting outer loops completely useless toward accomplishing this goal. Seems like it would be a much better game if these were necessary to complete the red scarf (maybe light all four rings and do a three way combo). As it stands i dont see any point in shooting for ramps that brick and drain down the middle every time or getting the ball going lightning speed on the outer loops only to miss it once and drain. Every time i hear ATTACK now i ignore it completely rather than getting excited. When i hit a ramp now, its on accident. Seems to me its a fatal flaw in the game and takes away some of the excitement of playing. just wanted to hear others thoughts...thanks

Regarding the hurry-ups, these are common in most games, and very rarely do they have anything to do with progress towards wizard mode. The ramps and orbits... While not being required for the wizard mode per se, are still required to complete in order to do well in the modes (which do count towards Wizard mode). Sure you could just be lazy in the modes and get a low score, but then what's the point? Shots also work toward accruing extra balls.

I think it's good to have a balance of things to achieve, Shadow loops, Vengeance, Super Vengeance, scene bonus, Khan Triple Super Jackpot, Orbit taxi trips (Going to the different locations), Secret Laughter Mode, many combos up to the 7 way combo... All of these which don't necessarily go toward wizard mode).

The way I look at it in summary is it's nice to have additional things to do aside from churning towards the wizard mode... It makes it more of like a random journey towards a goal, instead of a direct checklist of tasks you just need to complete. Remember, Wizard mode is not intended to be a comprehensive collection of achieving everything on the table.

1 week later
#2304 5 years ago

Came across this on my walk home from work.


#2312 5 years ago

I'm thinking of picking up some side mirrors for my Shadow. Can anyone provide recommendations on brand and color? I was wondering how gold side mirrors would look in a shadow (with all the brass wireforms). Has this been done by anyone here?

#2316 5 years ago

Yes, but what color?!!

#2318 5 years ago
Quoted from swampfire:

I'm getting mirror-colored

I think this may be the way to go, supposedly any scratches can be polished out... On the black chrome or gold ones, scratches are permanent.

#2323 5 years ago

I wanted to create some art to put in the back of the pinball machine, but wanted something with a halftone gradient fade. Created this from scratch... It's similar to the other mods out there, but made sure the alignment was on point. I just have to match the proper pantones. I may also turn off the lights in some of the windows.


#2330 5 years ago
Quoted from kermit24:

Ok here is a strange one. My volume screen is in French. Everything else on the game menus is in English. Dip switches are set to USA. It is a reimport and with a single slot coin door set for Francs. Ideas?

What ROM version are you running? My guess is it is LX-6. I think this was a glitch in this ROM, perhaps someone else may have further insight. I think this was fixed in ROM version HK-6.

#2354 4 years ago
Quoted from fosaisu:

While you're adjusting your Phurbas, I'd recommend replacing the set screws, there are accounts of them stripping and they'd be a nightmare to get out if they do. Some discussion here:

Agreed. Buy two of these:

#2355 4 years ago

I put some SMD strips in and like an idiot, I think I had too many going to one part of the GI. Not my back right corner GI won't turn on. Did I blow a fuse or something worse? Any advice? Also I can't remove the fuse, it's very tight... Any advice on removing it?

#2356 4 years ago

Delete, double post

#2361 4 years ago

Thanks for your help, yes it was definitely a fuse, but wasn't overloaded due to the strips. I also had two spotlights on the circuit which for some reason was causing the fuses to blow. I'm not sure why but it was definitely the spotlights. The full smd strips work perfectly now without the spots.

#2364 4 years ago

Did that just happen?

1 week later
#2368 4 years ago

I've noticed that many times, if a ball makes it up the right side of the left diverter with just enough momentum, it will become captured behind the switch. I'm sure this is a common problem with The Shadow. What would be the recommended solution to prevent this?

Shadow Ball.jpg

#2372 4 years ago

This should help. I'll straighten out the switch to see if that works alone, and if not, I'll raise the playfield angle.

#2379 4 years ago
Quoted from Aurich:

You're more than welcome!
Right now it's looking like a chunk of my list is flaking out, have a stack here unclaimed still. I guess I can try and figure out who hasn't ordered and try and hunt them down to ask if they still want them, but after a bit I'm just going to sell them to whoever asks for them, can't hold them forever after paying to have them printed if you're not gonna bother to respond.
If you're on my list and somehow missed the email I sent out shoot me a PM!

Aurich, that's disappointing to hear, you'd think people would be more appreciative of your efforts.

#2383 4 years ago

I recently finished rebuilding my Shadow, and many thanks to Aurich for helping me get rid of Alec, and also to Art from Cometpinball, Mike Chestnuet, and Kerry from Mantis Amusements.

I've just finished up the lighting. I color matched the GI with Cometpinball's 2 SMDs. I've been doing lots of experimentation with the GI lighting, and I'm sharing some of the results. My original thought was to make The Shadow look mysterious, so I originally went with Cool Whites, and some blue in the GI. I think it worked, with my Shadow looking like a distant cousin of Theatre of Magic, but I couldn't help but feel I was missing something... My Shadow is based off the the old radio show and pulp magazines, not the movie. And as such I felt I was not fully realizing the Art Deco design, and doing proper justice to the unique brass wire forms (Thanks Mike Chestnut).

I work in NYC, so on my way home from work I stopped by the Art Deco Waldof Astoria to take some photos for some inspiration... And noticed that the lighting is a very golden warm (not cool), with blue and black highlights image.jpeg

So I went ahead and redid the GI with Cometpinball's warm white bulbs, using a mix of 2SMD's retro bulbs and Optix Maximus. Created my own lost plastic in Illustrator, added a purple SMD strip above the lost plastic. I experimented with the wall, but felt that the lost plastic worked better, providing unity between the back of the pinball machine and the sides.

I added a warm white strip beneath the apron (I tried a purple strip below in my cool lighting below, but it just washed out all of the colors). I also added three spots, each with a Warm White Optix Maximus... I really wanted to push the golden hue and get the gold reflection from the wireforms. I added purple posts, and flashers, and purple post lights (I think I may change the post lights to blue at some point in the future however). I used some green beneath the battlefield, wanted to give it bit of eerie glow through the the cracks, drawing inspiration from the classic Zenith Magic Green Eye Radio...

I think it came out pretty good, for comparison, here is my Version 1 cool version of The Shadow. You can see how the taxi colors are washed out, it's darker, and looks a bit more modern:

And here it is after I modified to using the warm white lighting throughout. I really like the way this one came out, the playfield is more illuminated and wireforms seem to reflect as gold more (instead of the blue/silver in the cool version). I think it looks more vintage too, but I still might change my post lights to blue. I'll post some more photos soon.

#2386 4 years ago

Here a few more photos of my restored machine.

The repaired Sanctum, with added mylar:

And here is a new Lost Plastic created in Illustrator:

And some other photos, I prioritized bringing out the brass highlights wherever possible...





#2390 4 years ago

Thanks, the cityscape panel is something that I've seen before, but it was no longer available, I thought one or two of the buildings were a bit clunky, and alignment was off so I created this one. Then I went to a printer to produce it. If there was enough interest, I could explore making them available for order.

Thank Art, I appreciate the kind words. All of these lights are Comet Pinball lights, and am really pleased with how they look. The only additional lighting customizations I'm looking to make are to add a light over the battlefield (once the diffused strip is available), and trial blue lights in the purple star posts, and blue lights in teal star posts. I'd like to lessen some of the purple near the front and use it more of a highlight to the blue. Blue tends to be used in art deco a bit more prevalently, so I think it may suit the theme.

Yes definitely, these are Comet lights and you are more than welcome to share these pics on your site. I'll send through some hi-res versions for you.

#2392 4 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

Amazing pictures, congrats! It looks like a "world" more than a playfield. In fact, when we play pinball with enter an entire new world, and your pics perfctly catch that dimension.

That's a really good point. I've always thought pinball was like a mini amusement park captured under glass. Some pins seem to capture this entire world feel better than others, where the lighting, playfield art, toys, design, typography, plastics all seem to come together to become a mini world.

These do it well:
Lord of the Rings
Indiana Jones: The Pinball Adventure
Tales of the Arabian Nights
The Shadow
Theatre of Magic

And for comparison, these don't seem to capture a complete world (just an opinion):

1 week later
#2397 4 years ago

I decided to experiment with different colored posts (purple, blue, teal) and lights (purple, blue). I went with purple posts with blue light. It creates a gradient of royal blue that works well with the Art Deco theme and playfield colors.

I've shared some photos for reference:

The star post options, I originally thought teal may work, but it looks too green

Blue star post light

In blue post

In teal post

In purple post

Purple star post light

In blue post

In teal post

In purple post

And here is the comparison of purple in purple post and blue in purple post:

half/half playfield comparison

And the final result (blue light in purple post):

1 week later
#2418 4 years ago
Quoted from ozsammyboy:

Thanks for the reply. Sorry for the confusion I actually mean the plastics near the front of the battlefield where the balls falls down onto the play field / ramp from once you missed it with the moving flipper.

Do you mean the black plastic that raps around the whole battlefield?

#2438 4 years ago
Quoted from louknees:

I have a shadow and absolutely love it. How many people here have gotten to the final battle? of those people how many have beat it? I've had the game for a while and I can get three of the 4 done, the two multiballs and the battlefield, but I've never gotten over 4 modes.
That mode start shot is tough and I seem to only make it when I'm already in a mode!

I made it to the Final Battle just once, and made an embarrassing mistake. I started off focusing on the Battlefield, nailing shots like a pro... Keeping five balls in play. Juggling... Losing one ball, nailing loops, ramps, orbits... Getting switch after switch. I'm on fire. Balls trickle away slowly... Four, three, two. Finally just a switch on the Battlefield and a few on the playfield. I hit the Final battlefield shot and continue with the last two shots, then lose another ball and go down to a single ball. Final Battle Ends.

Guess what two switches I missed? One for each ramp. In my eagerness to hit the the battlefield targets and keep balls in play, I completely forgot to switch the diverters. Oh well, one of these days.

#2451 4 years ago

Yes it should lift out once the screws are removed.

#2452 4 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Someone may have replaced the set screws over the years with the incorrect ones.
You want the CUP POINT screws, not the more common Cone Point.


Are you able to buy the cup point screws as a cap screw anywhere, similar to this one at Marco (I think the Marco one is a cone point) ?

#2455 4 years ago

Thanks Vid. I wonder why cup point tips are used instead of flat?

#2461 4 years ago
Quoted from tonycip:

Quick question My upper play field drop targets were sluggish so i took the assembly apart and cleaned it .
it was kind of gummy and I noticed some grease on them I cleaned it all off and just waxed all rubbing surfaces.
it's not suppose to have lube on it is it? one more thing there's a nut at the end of the solenoid that holds the reset bracket for the targets should that screw be tight or a little loose .. thanks Tony


Referencing an old post here... I'd like to clean out the upper playfield drop targets because the left one is not dropping because it is sticking on the way down (meaning every 30 games or so I need to manually activate switch 85 in the test menu). I'm trying to repeat what was done in this post, but need some help removing the target assembly. Is it possible for me to remove this with out removing the whole battlefield? I don't want to get in over my head here. Any advice?

1 week later
#2498 4 years ago

A photo I took today... A balls eye view of the Aurich translite.


#2500 4 years ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

Nice Photo! How did you shoot it?

I used an iPhone 6s camera with the lens inverted to be close to the playfield as possible, tilted upwards.

In other news, Gasoline Alley's comic for today features The Shadow. Thought I'd share...


#2510 4 years ago

Has anyone put gold mirror blades on their Shadow? I know there was the recent sale during Black Friday. If so, please share some photos!

#2523 4 years ago
Quoted from PinballNewb:

I don't have an issue with balls flying out of the wireform. I will say that maybe 15% of the time or so the switch will not register. Usually when it's the last shot needed to complete Vengeance! If I bend the switch out too much though the ball has a tendency to get stuck on weaker / not as clean ramp shots.

Try replacing with this switch, it should prevent the ball from getting stuck and should register the switches better:

#2526 4 years ago
Quoted from wisefwumyogwave:

Anyone know where to get a replacment left ramp? Marco is out and said they dont know when they'll have them again if ever. I had to weld mine up because it was broken just about everywhere because the diverters were slamming into the ramp. Looks ok but my left exit area is broke at the 90 degree bend- put a good tack weld on it and broke again after a few shots, metal is just too thin there imo.

Yes, you're in luck. Check out Mantis. Much better quality than the originals.

1 week later
1 week later
#2559 4 years ago

I like the ornate Chinese dragon design on the back wall, I haven't seen that one before, just the solid black, skyscape or red brick wall. You don't have much sanctum damage either so it should be good for a rebuild. If you are missing the speaker panel, I recommend reaching out to Aurich to see if he has any of his translite/speaker sets. They are becoming sparse, and he may not be doing any more reprints:

1 week later
#2580 4 years ago

Do they go down smoothly? I've seen this before where they stick during gameplay so the switch doesn't get activated.

#2583 4 years ago
Quoted from BulkOfTheSeries:

I'm having this issue, but getting a different switch error #
Do these need to be taken apart and cleaned?

Yes, this is the solution. I had this problem with another switch (86 I think) ended up taking the drop target assembly out, cleaning, it, waxing the plastic and it fixed the problem. Generally if they stick, you'll get the error Slingshot is having every 30 games or so. When this happens, the targets won't reset within game, and you have to do the manual switch edges test to remove the error every 30 games.

#2587 4 years ago
Quoted from BulkOfTheSeries:

I get this error every game. They don't reset for me even once.
Is this area easily deconstructed?

Have you gone into the switch edges and pressed the switch manually?

#2600 4 years ago
Quoted from swampfire:

Well guys, I'm selling my membership in the club tomorrow. A nice HUO POTC came my way, and something had to go. TS is definitely the most beautiful B/W I've ever owned, and I'll miss seeing it in the lineup. I won't miss how bad I sucked playing it, though.

Have you played POTC much, it has limited replayability.

#2603 4 years ago
Quoted from holmstarrunner:

I've had my Shadow for a year. I've beat final battle a few times...two weeks ago I got my first triple super jackpot and today I finally got a seven way combo! Game still brings me back for more. There is still a mode I've never beat. There are just so many rewarding challenges to this game.

Which mode?

1 week later
#2623 4 years ago
Quoted from d0n:

Hey folks here's a quick easy and cheap mod i did to better light up the sanctum area. My game was very dark and the coolest part of the game is watching the ball woosh into the sanctum.
The great thing about the spotlight is that its on at about 50% power all the time but goes to full brightness when a ball gets stuck on the magnet. It then shuts off and goes dark a second after the ball gets pulled into the sanctum. The ball collection in the sanctum is very dramatic now!

Very cool, how did you set the light up to increase power when activated?

1 week later
#2656 4 years ago

I think it is how easy it is to defeat the battlefield (shots before you are able to complete it).

1 week later
#2674 4 years ago
Quoted from jwo825:

It's a code word used in the movie. To identify his secret operatives if I remember correctly.

Actually, I don't think so... I think the code word/phrase was "The Sun is Shining - But the Ice is Slippery"

#2678 4 years ago
Quoted from someoneelse:

Kind of, yes, at least the cheating part. I'm still looking for a better solution to installing colored flipper rubbers while maintaining the original feel. I like how they play, but it does make the game easier so currently I've put the original ones back in the game.
The rubbers are easily exchangable to try different setups.
Sorry for the harsh reaction, I had the impression that your tip was meant as kind of a remedy to a faulty construction of the upper flipper. My bad.

I also like the purple rubbers, tried the super-bands but found them too bouncy and removed them. I then discovered a solution that works, Titan Competition rubbers, these are very similar to the original flippers and come in a variety of colors (including purple):

Here's what they look like in my pin...


#2686 4 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

Question about the Sanctum wall mod: I see it costs around 300$, which looks like insane.
Is it only a plastic, or does it make some kind of light effects? Is it worthed?

Are you referring to the brick wall or the city?

#2697 4 years ago

Why not get the wall decal or city scape?

#2701 4 years ago

Art (Oldpinguy) from Comet pinball was working on some frosted strips with a 45 degree angle to reduce glare. I'm not sure if they are available yet. Perhaps he can advise?

2 weeks later
#2737 4 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

question for the Shadow owners with full led setup: how is it when you play it? is it disturbing for the eyes?
I have several pinball machines, but none ledded. On my Shadow I only put led on the 6 six scenes inserts, and its fine. looking at the pictures here, I have to say that fully ledded machines look great. But I am a player, more than a collector, so I wonder how it is to play machines with so many leds in your face...

I think it looks great in LED's, here's how I decked my Shadow out:

-Shadow is a darker game, so I didn't want to make it any darker than necessary. My Shadow is based on the old time radio show (not the movie from the 90s... Thank you Aurich) I aimed to use mostly Comet Pinball warm whites since it complements the golden, art deco motif of the pinball's golden age of radio theme. Warm white also doesn't distort the colors of the plastics.
-I added some green LED's under the mini-playfield. I wanted to get an eerie glow coming up through the cracks... Like the old green-eye radios.
-Most of the purple comes from the flasher, post lights, and mode inserts. I didn't add any into the GI.


#2739 4 years ago
Quoted from BulkOfTheSeries:

I color matched on the inserts with a few exceptions. I put purple in the arrow that points to the Khan saucer.
I used green in the modes instead of Purple. I though it popped more and with purple flashers, there's tons of purple going on. I put every color of bulb in there for a while, and green was what I liked best.
Don't put cool whites in the flashers under the caps or it'll be too bright.
LEDs are really easy and not very expensive unless you get lazy and buy a kit.
The COLOR DMD is basically a must for this thing, especially if you spent the $ for the Aurich and LEDs. After you sell the old DMD it only cost you ~ $200.

Do you have a photo of the inserts with the green leds? I'd be curious to see what it looks like.

#2755 4 years ago
Quoted from ziz:

The ball should no get air off of that left target. Mine was doing this when I first got it as well. I cut some new foam and glued it in and also made sure the target was bent forward slightly, never happened again.

This is what you need. Add these reinforced target switches and you shouldn't have any trouble with airballs.

#2779 4 years ago
Quoted from ZMeny:

Bos98, ever consider putting a yellow or warm white LED bulb behind the lantern on the translite? It adds a nice touch I think.

I use a slow blinking warm white from Comet Pinball. Pretty cool, looks like a flickering lamp.

#2781 4 years ago

Ok, Shadow fans... let's get some discussion going. What are your top 3 modes, and why?

1. Discover Hotel Monolith (easily my fav, multiple phases, and high scoring potential)

2. The Beryllium Sphere (love the zap and tension)

3. Escape Underwater Doom (cool scoring)

1 week later
#2829 4 years ago
Quoted from DMC:

For those interested in lighting the battlefield I used Comet Opmax in light sockets screwed into the back of the battlefield. The screws are already there - I just had to do a bit of bending and adjustment. I'm powering them of a DK Pinball Powertap, but you can easily use alligator clips instead. I do get some reflection off the mini playfield but it's not a bother. My OCD compelled me to fit two lights, but one (on the right to minimise reflection) will work fine.

I tried this, but it kept shorting out my GI. I think it had something to do with the metal being bent and touching something.
Is this likely?

1 week later
#2842 4 years ago
Quoted from matt_adams:

You don't have to do them in a row, just complete all 4 within the time.

I think if you start Vengeance with a combo, you will receive the Super Vengeance when completing all of them (irrespective of whether or not they are completed in a row). The key is to start it as a combo. Does this sound correct?

#2856 4 years ago

I've replaced the flashers with purple caps as many here have. I've been thinking about the original orange. I wonder if Bally used orange to add to the golden ambience of the art deco design?

#2880 4 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

Opto switches 31 and 32 are at the entrance of the ramps: what is their purpose?

Potentially to cue the audio and DMD, not sure?

#2887 4 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

Yes, not identical, but still good.

Is IT?!

#2901 4 years ago
Quoted from Pesmerga:

Thanks for your answer Luddite, any suggestion on how to repair the sanctum zone without canceling the writings and without buying those wrong colored decals? How did you guiys repaired yours?

Repaint the whole section, with the grey (the whole shape, don't try to paint part or you will see a line. I provided a formula in an earlier post:

Then make a waterslide of the type and lay it over the grey area. You will then want to clear, mylar and wax. Here is my completed Shadow, after the Sanctum area was fully repaired:


#2913 4 years ago
Quoted from Pesmerga:

Thank you for your help guys! I have 2 question more:
I've seen the suggested color kit in the link posted by jonesjb. Transparent colors are going to cover the jbweld properly? Opaque colors aren't better?
Waterslide decals are normal adhesive that can be printed by typography? There are any specifics that I must respect to prevent them from ruining (type of adhesive etc.)?
It is suggested to apply mylar on it or this will rise the playfield too much?
Sorry but I'm a newbie :S
PS please let me know where i can find that skyscraper decal/plastic you have in the back of the cabinet, I really like it

Yes, definitely use opaque. Regarding the waterslide, you NEED to print on a laser printer otherwise it will run.

The Skyscraper decal... I'm a graphic designer, and created the back image to match the sides. I made sure the colors were identical using a CMYK pantone swatch kit. I printed it out on styrene. There is another one out there for sale, but the alignment is off and it's unavailable.... So I made this. The other one doesn't have the halftone dots that match the plastics either. I was going to print and sell these but never got enough interest.


#2918 4 years ago

What about one of these things...


#2927 4 years ago
Quoted from Glarrownage:

Yeah, brand new foam from Marcos. I can try to find something more firm or thicker. What foam are you using?

Replace the reinforced stand ups from Marcos. They will end your air balls. I tried the foam but didn't help much.

1 month later
#2965 4 years ago
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

If you like "The Shadow" listen to go the Radio Show from the 1950s. Makes the Alec Baldwin movie even more embarassing. Available via free podcast for listening while you work or drive.

I bought this beauty two weeks ago, and listen to The Shadow and other old time radio shows. It's an ultra rare Zenith 12S267 from 1938. Sounds amazing.


#2970 4 years ago
Quoted from Aurich:

Wow, the dial on that radio alone is amazing, what a find.

Yes, the green is a magic eye electron-ray indicator tube which moves to give a visual indicator of signal strength, it helps make it easier to tune into stations. The narrower the sliver is, the stronger the station.


#2972 4 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

How do you play old taped radio shows on it?

The radio has a audio in jack (not original - added to the chassis at a later point in time), I have a Bose bluetooth receiver attached, and I play the old time radio shows and music to that via my iPhone. Here is the receiver I use: link »

#2977 4 years ago

Go warm white and have the color of the plastics shine through!

#2980 4 years ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

Try a frosted purple 6.3V strip with a Matrix bulb and wire from Comet, and in minutes in installs behind the battlefield
sign shining backwards.
If you want to control the brightness, and a brightness control.
Truly kicks ass!

Comet has the best price, and they can handle 6.3V or 12v.
They are plug and play in a wide vaiety to your GI, Inserts or Flashers in minutes!
Slings and close posts are a must, a found some games dont need every post lit, especially towards the back,
but thats personal.
Ive done all 3 ...purple post with purple, white, and blue....all different all cool!

Did Comet ever release that LED strip with frosted white and with a 45 degree angle pitch?

#2987 4 years ago
Quoted from drsfmd:

I LED'd the backbox and all of the inserts in the playfield in my Shadow tonight. I was a few flashers short, but wanted to share the results of the backbox. I may change it up a little bit... and I'd love your thoughts. Sorry about the reflection from the florescent fixture on the backglass.
I'll also add... what is the bulb number for the flasher in the mini-playfield?

I prefer to keep warm white (with maybe just one or two color LED's) behind the translite to let the natural colors shine through. Just my personal preference. I find when I put in color LED's there is lot of bleeding of light into other areas, distorting the color's next to the main color. Here is a photo of my backbox with warm whites (yes apples and oranges given I have the Aurich alt, but you get the idea). I have one or two green LED's in the Shadow type, because I wanted the green to seep into the mist (giving it a glow), aside from that everything else is warm white.


#2990 4 years ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

This Strip..still unnamed, runs on either 6.3 or 12v.
In the best plug and play method, only always on, or flashing with paddle currently.
The board that has been made
by another pinsider, its in the Jp thread,
might be adaptable to this need.
Or something like a miniature broad range
Motion sensor, or a connection to the logic.
Ultimately, I haven't seen an easy answer
But I think someone who builds a plug and play
answer for on only when active, would do well.
The 45 degree strip is 20 inches, and puts a nice segmented light in one direction, and at 45 degrees, full white bright!
So like on the back of an NBA
Fastbreak, it looks like Stadium
Lighting with the crowd backsplash,
and lights the whole back.
In the Shadow, back lighting shows
As a reflection on the mini playfield
This bothers some people, so putting it on the
Battlefield sign, fixed this.
Other strips come frosted, colors, and can be dimmed.
One can put one color on the battlefield and another on the right.....i like this way best.

Very exciting, I'm looking forward to this! Please keep us updated.

#2992 4 years ago

Looks great!

#2994 4 years ago

That's weird. I use rom 6, but not one patched for LEDs. What does this mean?

#2995 4 years ago

Has anyone put a Shaker on a Shadow? HEhar so you think, and how do you toggle what activates it?

1 week later
#3020 4 years ago
Quoted from Aurich:

I still haven't, closest I've come is I think 4 shots away.

I made it to final battle once, did really well kept nailing shots, and kept the balls alive for a long time, but try as I might, I couldn't finish. When I finally lost my second to last ball, I noticed which two shots I missed... Two ramp shots... I forgot to hit each diverter! Very silly way to lose!

#3032 4 years ago

Is there a way to grow the jackpot value, either before or during the multiballs? I'm not referring to the double or triple jackpot, but the actual amount.

#3047 4 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

here my settings:
- Farley scene: 23 secs (this one shorter than default, here you want to reach the battlefield and hit few targets and the job is done or almost; 30 secs or more too easy to get to the battlefield and finish the mode)
- Guilty scene: 50 secs
- Sphere scene: 55 secs
- Escape scene: 45.000.000 (around 60 secs)
- Multi lock timer: 25 secs
- Mongol Hurry Up: extra hard (too easy otherwise and you get it too often)
- Battlefield level: 04 (starts at 50, enough challange since the beginning)
- Hotel ball save: 10 secs (a very hard multiball mode, divided in two parts. A slightly longer ball save time helps to reach the interesting second part (still pretty hard), otherwise you will not see it probably at all!
- Khan lit memory: NO (YES is too easy, you manage to get it even without aiming at it)
- Central hit ball save: YES (unfair drains otherwise)
- Who knows extra ball memory and skill shot extra ball memory: NO (awarded randomly, so you have been lucky! get the extra ball with the existing ball, otherwise you are asking for too much luck!)
- Extra ball percent: OFF
I checked my percentage of completing modes and they are around 4% to 8%: so it's still very tough to complete scenes, but the difference is I try it using skills and smart shots, keeping the ball under control. And not trying to shoot super fast hoping in a lucky series of shots, while getting instead many drains - hence stopping trying to complete scenes.
In this way the game is constantly super interesting, because you are constantly on your toes building up different tasks. And they all contribute building a high score, in a really balanced way.
Try and learn the subtleties of playing the game in this way: it's just amazing!

This is a great post, thanks for sharing. My instinct has always to keep the settings in default, as though not doing so meant that I was copping out as a pinball player. However after reading your post, I reconsider... I was thinking about it, your changes don't make it any easier to get to final battle wizard mode (so it's not cheating). Shadow's modes don't need to be completed, just played... So this works, it brings some more strategy into the gameplay, in areas that are only nuanced in standard play (locking balls during multiball, hotel ball save extension). Final battle is just as hard to reach, all this does is shift the indexing on your pinball machine.

Now if there was a pin that had timed modes that need to be completed, this would be another story.

What do others think?

#3052 4 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

Many of my settings are not actually easier, they are just different. First of all some has harder values, so they are... just harder. But also think about this: longer times for the mode helps a bit with finishing the mode itself, but on the other hand force you to keep the ball in play for longer, before you can start a new mode. So it may be harder to reach the Final Battle. In any case, TS really needs rules adjustment to be fully appreciated, no doubt!

Agreed. I like your settings also amplify the scoring importance of modes and multiball, potentially even making the game more balanced scoring wise and less reliant on the final battle for a high score.

#3054 4 years ago

I'd be curious what settings other Shadow owners have their machines on, do you use the default settings, use the standard Easy, Hard, Extra hard tweak or customize the different modes down to the granular level.

#3082 4 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Gonna led my shadow. Any new led pics? I like the blue and purple led look but this game is so dark a nice white also brings out colors. Anyone that can post a nice pf pic that would be nice. Thx

Here are photos of my restored Shadow. I used Comet LED's and highly recommend. In my opinion, you can go for a golden age Shadow (with warm whites) or use more cool whites, and go for more of a sleek Matrix-y shadow, giving it more of a sleek modern hue. You can go for lots of colors in the GI, but I think that washes out the art and darkens the payfield.

Since my Shadow is based on the radio show a la the tranlite (thanks Aurich). I've opted for using warm white throughout for 90% of the GI (most of the purple is coming from the flashers and the lit star posts). The golden hue of the white, is a perfect fit for the golden art deco look. The only color I have is under the battlefield, I was going for an eerie mysterious green to compliment the mist.

IMG_0538 (resized).jpg
IMG_0321 (resized).jpg
IMG_0381 (resized).jpg
IMG_0305 (resized).jpg
IMG_0869 (resized).jpg

#3088 4 years ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

One doesnt need to do them all, many may not be visible to an extant.
Just count up the ones you wish.
With Matrix, they respond to both GI Quick Connect as well as Flasher.
So whether you wish to Alligator clip, solder, or use a plug and play 2 headed connector,
you can achieve this pretty fast, and at a very affordable cost.

Do you know if Comet will be releasing the 45 degree frosted strips to use on the battlefield?

One recommendation I recommend is to use a warm white SMD strip above the flippers under the apron for a nice glow. You can see an example in my last image.

#3092 4 years ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

Has anyone noticed that when you shot the scene hole next to the right ramp and quickly pull the trigger you initiate a duck quacking sounds. What do those quacks represent? Also, what is with the herd of cows that sometimes runs across the DMD making a mooing sound?

Get the duck to quack three times in three separate locations (khan, mode, battlefield kicker)... then shoot the mode for a surprise.

#3097 4 years ago

Actually I stand corrected. My pin has purple posts with a blue light inside. I experimented with the various colors and posted photos of my tests here. Let me find my post.

#3098 4 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

I decided to experiment with different colored posts (purple, blue, teal) and lights (purple, blue). I went with purple posts with blue light. It creates a gradient of royal blue that works well with the Art Deco theme and playfield colors.
I've shared some photos for reference:

And here is the comparison of purple in purple post and blue in purple post:

And the final result (blue light in purple post):

Here it is!

#3115 4 years ago

What does the Khan multiball start timer do? The manual says: it's how long the Khan multiball lamp is lit once started.

I thought Khan stays lit once you get the 4 rollovers? Note this is different from the Khan ball save.

#3118 4 years ago

Has anyone put gold pinball blades on their Shadow?

#3124 4 years ago

Also make sure that there are no dimples in the wood as that can throw it off. First thing to do is check that the magnet is touching the bottom of the playfield to make sure it's in the correct placement.

#3125 4 years ago

It's amazing how well designed this game is. Each aspect of the playfield has been created with intended purpose.

After owning my Shadow for over a year I was playing this morning and discovered something new... I originally thought the upper flipper has 3 shots (the battlefield, the loop,and the Khan hole). But there is actually a 4th: a clear shot to the Sanctum can be achieved by shooting at the rubber under Khan and ricocheting upward to the lock.

Is this common knowledge?

#3129 4 years ago

Doesn't sound like a switch issue. The ball launches by dropping the ball slightly then pulsing the Magnet. Assuming there isn't a dimple, just try increasing the incline of your machine. Shadow needs to be at 6.5 degrees, if it is too level, the sanctum won't work.

#3132 4 years ago

Have you tried increasing the incline? Any luck?

#3135 4 years ago
Quoted from romulusx:

New Shadow this weekend' seems like a fun game so far.The only problem I seem to have is with
the battlefield.When you turn machine on it goes thru the solenoid process and the targets pop
up and then it seems to stutter but they stay up.During battlefield play the drop targets go down and
don't pop up until you turn off pin and turn it back on.There have been times were it worked fine,but
mostly they stay down Can anyone help with this issue Thank You

Assuming switches all work fine in the test, your drop targets are likely gummed up. This happened to my Shadow. I took them apart and cleaned them and it fixed the issue.

#3140 4 years ago
Quoted from romulusx:

Can thefour bank drop target assembly be removed from the bottom or do you have to remove the battlefield

You can remove it from the bottom. it's just a few screws. You shouldn't need to remove the whole battlefield.

#3142 4 years ago
Quoted from cavalier88z24:

You have to remove the battlefield to get to screws to remove the 4 bank target. pictures of the screws below

I was able to remove the drop targets by just flipping up the battlefield. I didn't have to remove completely.

#3148 4 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

+1. I did this and cleaned mine up. Works better but still have issue where sometimes they don't go down when hit.

And while it is apart, I recommend waxing it so it will go down and up smoother.

#3171 4 years ago

I had the hum, but rebuilt the assembly underneath and fixed the Sanctum wear back to pristine. The hum then went away. I'm not sure if the fix was due to making the magnet touch the wood OR wood splintering was vibrating and disappeared when fixed.

Here are the ramps you want (by Mantis):

#3186 4 years ago

Khan should still be a 3 ball multi.

1 week later
#3203 4 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

I'd like to join this club and have been looking at a game but it's got an issue and I'm hoping to get some advice.
It's got some typical sanctum wear and a sanctum decal was applied a year or two ago (maybe longer) as a quick fix. The magnet has basically kinda melted the sticker thus making it look a bit worse but has caused a potential divot for the ball to rest in. Here's the real issue:
About half the time when you lock a ball, the magnet catches the ball, the wall opens, but the magnet doesn't launch the ball into the hole and eventually lets go of the ball and it rolls back down the playfield.
I've read that it could be a magnet positioning issue, perhaps the magnet needs to be positioned closer to the playfield? It catches the ball perfectly, it just fails to propel the ball into the lock.
Any thoughts/suggestions would be greatly appreciated. The machine seems to be in great shape otherwise. Is there any way to stop the magnet from doing any future damage to the playfield?

This can be fixed. How much are they asking (to see if it's worth it)?

#3209 4 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

I appreciate the response but ultimately decided to go snag his really nice IJ. I have a few minor switch/opto issues to deal with but I'm thinking they're all minor things. It's a really nice machine (new cab, new decals, new side rails, very minimal wear) and I'm really looking forward to getting it to 100%.
If anyone in the DC Metro area is looking for a Shadow, I know where you can find one!

Agreed. $3K is a steal, for a pretty easy fix. Great game. What Indiana Jones did you get? Stern or Bally?

#3211 4 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

Not to offend anyone, but the good one
Williams all the way!

You chose, wisely.

#3227 4 years ago

I think Mike Chestnut's business is still in operation following his unfortunate passing. He replated my habitrails and they look good as new.

3 weeks later
#3291 4 years ago
Quoted from freddy:

looks like he needs to move a post and flip the plastic

I originally thought it was a flipped plastic, but this doesn't look like the case as the holes would be in the wrong spot.

#3295 4 years ago

Lamprey, I stand corrected. I checked and I can confirm your plastic is indeed backwards. There are four screws the plastic should be screwed in by the top two screws, this tapers the plastic so the ball rolls properly upwards.

#3308 4 years ago

Has anyone ever brassed their legs and lockdown bar on the Shadow? If so, please share!

#3315 4 years ago
Quoted from damadczar:

Hope to join the cub in a couple days.
Found a nice Shadow for $3200 a couple miles from me.
A little more than I want to pay for it, but it's in fantastic condition working 100%. Practically no Sanctum wear.
Still a good price, you think?


#3318 4 years ago

Any photos of it? I'd say go for it. Sounds like a great price for an underrated pin.

#3320 4 years ago
Quoted from smiley:

I wouldn't sell mine for that price.

Good price for the buyer, not the seller.

#3333 4 years ago

I watched Dr Strange this weekend. There were quite a few parallels in story and set pieces to Shadow. I could see a Shadow pin being easily reskinned to a Dr Strange one with new art.

2 weeks later
#3355 3 years ago
Quoted from Agent_Hero:

I can stop bugging the local Pinsiders now that I got a Shadow. I put two spotlights on the playfield and one on the Battlefield. The cone that goes on the spotlight was too much of a distraction for me on the Battlefield, so after trying a bunch of colors I went with a flexible/bendie LED in red. My reasoning for using red is probably way over the top, but it's kinda to create a mood like in a stage production. Like if you were watching a performance of the Shadow in an old-time theater, they might cast red lighting to indicate a Battlefield scene.
I like how it really serves to cut off the Battlefield and draw attention to it as being completely separate and the fact that I don't notice the light source at all. Sure I lose the color of the art there, but the design is still visible and the orange inserts are still a bit of a contrast. I had a plain warm white light in the spot light but it just looked too plain--there wasn't much as far as interesting art to be featured up there. Not pictured is the Kenner Thunder cab topper.

I like it. The red also creates unity with the scarf. Did you try it with green? Might work with like the eerie green eye in the old radio shows.

#3361 3 years ago
Quoted from Agent_Hero:

I don't have a green bendie. I tried some kind of extra bright green LED and it didn't look as appropriate for the art deco style. I think the green was too light compared to Shadow's green. Also, a normal bulb up there is kinda distracting. With the bendie, it lays flat so I barely notice it. I went through the entire thread over the past month and your LED layout is the kind of style I'm looking to get. My machine came with bright natural white LED's under the slings and near the flippers which brought out the blue and purple there, but like you've said in your posts, warm white is more common for an art deco style. For now, I only have incandescents available to have a warm white look in those areas.

I have green under the battlefield leaking through the cracks, but I really like the red up top and may give it a try. I worry that it may be too Christmasy, so I may try red up top and blue or purple underneath.

#3374 3 years ago
Quoted from damadczar:

Also, I'm having a problem where the drop target for the battlefield doesn't come up or down during gameplay, but in test mode it will go up and down.... it's kind of driving me nuts.
Any ideas?

The drop target is likely getting grimy.

1 week later
#3411 3 years ago

Aurich translite tip: use a Comet warm slow blinker in the bottom left behind the lamp for a cool effect.

#3413 3 years ago
Quoted from RCA1:

Did you mean left instead of right?

Yes, sorry thanks! I meant left (edited).

#3415 3 years ago
Quoted from someoneelse:

Just replaced Aurichs great translite with this beauty. Love it, think this one will stay!

Beautiful. Where can I get one of these?

#3425 3 years ago

Sharing the custom message on my Shadow. Thought some of you would appreciate, especially the Aurich translite owners whose pin is based on the classic radio show as opposed to the Baldwin film.

IMG_2418 (resized).JPG
IMG_2431 (resized).JPG
IMG_2463 (resized).JPG

3 weeks later
#3466 3 years ago
Quoted from TimeBandit:

So, what's the usual bounce-out rate from the battlefield after the VUK fires? I'm finding about fifty percent of battlefield entries are bouncing out straight away and flying around the back half of the playfield.
Do I need to align my VUK wireform up a bit? Looks like it could be out, but it might be normal. I wouldn't know.

Yes you'll want to adjust that. I don't think I've had any bounce outs. Is it hitting the yellow standup?

#3468 3 years ago
Quoted from TimeBandit:

So, what's the usual bounce-out rate from the battlefield after the VUK fires? I'm finding about fifty percent of battlefield entries are bouncing out straight away and flying around the back half of the playfield.
Do I need to align my VUK wireform up a bit? Looks like it could be out, but it might be normal. I wouldn't know.

I'm not in front of my Shadow to check, but I believe there may be a washer under the wireform base under one of the nuts. You can try to put a washer under here and it should tilt the wireform forward. Don't go bending the wireforms, you should be able to fix everything at the base.

#3483 3 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

I also need to get an idea of how many I need to build so I can order parts. The more kits the better the discount on the parts will be which translates in a lower cost for everyone.

Wait, what's going on? Is this some sort of device that activates lights in the battlefield when the ball is up there? If so count me in.

1 month later
#3578 3 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

» YouTube video
I hate uploading videos, I hate making videos, what a pain in my a#%. Lets see if it works.

This looks great, what second delay is this, 2 sec?

#3581 3 years ago

Here's a tip I haven't seen posted, it's a tactic I use to reliably get the extra ball in video mode:

1. Play video good enough to get up to the $3 million.
2. When you get to this point, make your way to the right of the screen.
3. Remove your right hand and place it on the gun.
4. Tap the left flipper button as required to only move left and avoid the phurbas (it now becomes a timing game as opposed to a dodge one). When you get to the left side, and can't move any further left wait until there is a phurba coming at you and pull the trigger.
5. The Extra Ball should arrive during the reprieve.
6. Collect.

#3605 3 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

I tried mounting the light strip to, above, over and over while in front of the metal strip in the back. Always the same results for me, it reflected off the battle field and in my eyes. No bueno!
I am going to try it again but I need to find a light diffuser sheet first. I think this would be the best way to do it, but I just need to find the right stuff to make it work.

Comet was producing a led strip with frosted white, that sits at a 45 degree angle to solve this. I remember Arthur discussing it, it's likely available. I'll investigate.

#3609 3 years ago

Art, are you still involved with Comet.

#3629 3 years ago
Quoted from cavalier88z24:

A few questions for the shadow owers. First what has everyone done about the left divertor right ramp switch?. I see some have installed long metal detent switchs that look stupied. I replaced with orignal part number and it gets stucks all the time.
Also where can i get a replacement kicker arm. Dont see it available anywhere. Its a square type. Mine has been rubbed down to nothing see picture. Its not square anymore.
Also im having a hard time with the battlefield. The kicker moves nicely in test mode. But during game play it moves slowly to the left. Is there a adjustment?
Also where do i get new set screws for the divertors ?
Thank u n jeremy. So close to finishing this game

For the left diverter, use a straight switch, but just use the shorter one.

From memory, I think this is the one, but double check:

#3649 3 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

Did you put Mylar on top of it? How about some details on how you applied the kwik wood?

I posted some advice earlier, try searching for my threads

#3658 3 years ago
Quoted from waldo34:

Is it normal to get lots of airballs hitting the lower ramp? Thanks.

Not by hitting the ramps, but by missing and hitting the yellow targets. Try buying the reinforced yellow targets to minimize this.

#3663 3 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

Referring to thickness of the foam

The backing doesn't make much of a difference, I tried. You need the reinforced targets to solve the problem.

#3673 3 years ago
Quoted from pinbuoy:

Wow that's a lot of work!

Have you seen photos of my Shadow? Trust me, a much larger portion of my time has been spent restoring it to it's current condition than editing the custom message

1 week later
#3677 3 years ago
Quoted from lpeters82:

So this question came up in another thread. When you hold the third flipper does a looped ball often wind up in the Kahn hole? Please post your answer and slope setting.

Could be a good case for a poll. For what it's worth, my Shadow's upper flipper doesn't feed the hole. I've played about 3 other ones, and they didn't either.

#3681 3 years ago

Aside from pinball, I also collect original vintage movie posters, I go for Noir or 50's Sci-Fi. I picked this up today to accompany the pin, very rare from the 1940's:

Shadow (resized).jpeg

These aren't Shadow, but sharing anyway...

IMG_2546 (resized).JPG
IMG_2850 (resized).JPG

#3694 3 years ago
Quoted from PinballNewb:

Mine sounds like it is set up like yours. It can feed it, but it has to be a super clean shadow loop shot with the ball already having speed. Even then it's not a guarantee.

Welcome to the club. I recommend searching for some of my past posts. I've done a lot of experimenting with the led lights, and I provide example images and rationale. Ultimately you can go with a slick, action style with cool whites... Or a warm white art deco style akin to an old pulp mag. I went with the latter:

Here are two posts in particular. Let me know what you think:

1 week later
#3739 3 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

Here is what I did with the grumpy mod. Used both the GI and battle field active
Lighting. Mounted a purple strip in far back of cab above battlefield for the GI. Once the battlefield is active this strip turns off and two 6SMD pads turn on which are mounted to back metal brackets.
Here is you tube link and some other pics posted too. As always, the camera exaggerates the lighting.
» YouTube video

Looks really good, how did you attache the panels? Is there normally a screw there?

#3743 3 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

2. The back drop targets go down and stay down after the first time they are hit. I'm pretty sure that, previously, they wouldn