Noblesville, IN
I’d love to join the club if anyone has a lead on one within a reasonable driving distance of Indianapolis. Project or players condition is totally fine. Thanks!
(Topic ID: 46571)
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Shadow, The
Bally, 1994
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2 weeks later
So I'm getting a ER. BAT. DROP BAD CHK. SWITCH/COIL error. Last week I was measuring the leads going into the drop target coil and I wasn't getting anything during solenoid test. It wasn't until I measured the connector plug right before the assembly that I was actually getting power during a solenoid test. I assumed the coil was bad so I bought a new one. I put the new one in last night and it worked. I went to test it this morning and it is back to failing. When I run the solenoid test for the drop coil I hear nothing. It is like it isn't even trying to fire it. The reset coil will fire all day but the drop won't. I just tested the new and old coil I removed and they measured 5 and 4.5 ohms respectively which I assume means the old coil is just fine. What would keep this coil from firing even during solenoid test?
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:That is an oddly touchy mechanism. Take it off and clean it up really good. My guess is it is just hanging up on itself. I assume you replaced the coil sleeves? Clean up all the metal, springs and the plastic drop target. You can even wax the side the target slides against. After that it should work fine. Mine was doing the same thing before the good cleaning.
Yeah I completely disassembled my Wall target which was having similar problems but this one surprised me. This is just the single drop target that leads up to the Battlefield. The reset coil will pop the target back up all day. This issue is the coil that is supposed to drop the target. I'll take it back apart tonight but I can't understand why the coil does fire when I'm doing a solenoid test. This coil is just a magnet so no sleeve to replace.
1 week later
So currently none of my playfield flashers work but my backbox flashers do. What is crazy is the backbox flashers fire on the same solenoid as a few of the playfield flashers so I don’t think it is a driver issue as none of them would work. I’m pretty confident that it isn’t a fuse as I checked every one. Thoughts?
1 week later
For those who haven't seen this tread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-big-is-too-big-for-a-dmd-
If you have the LED version of a ColorDMD you can buy bigger panels. I love them. Pics don't do it justice.
IMG_8136 (resized).jpegQuoted from woody76:pretty cool, do the speakers still sit behind it??
Correct. The panels are held on with magnetic standoffs so the sound just comes out around the edges of the display. I just turned it up a few clicks and it sounds good to me!
2 weeks later
Quoted from Lermods:anyone have a template they used for the plastic to relocate the ramp switch? I can 3d print them in a transparent filament. I'd be willing to make them available on pinside at cost+shipping, around $10 total I'd imagine, but wouldn't know until I can figure out print time. If not, I can try to design one.
PLEASE DO THIS! THANKS!
1 week later
Quoted from Lermods:Ok, everyone, the bracket to relocate the left ramp switch is finished. I tested it in my game and it worked every time! The mounting holes are slightly elongated to allow for movement/adjustment of the switch for a precise fit, but I got it working on the first install with no adjustment needed. We also added a hole to ziptie the wire to the bracket. Ziptie is included. I'm also including two mounting screws and nuts to mount the switch to the bracket. Use your existing switch screws to mount the bracket to the ramp. It's nearly invisible from the players view.
Price is $13 shipped and it's now available in our pinside shop. Let me know if you have any questions.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1016-lermods/02959-shadow-left-ramp-switch-bracket
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
...and purchased. Thanks!
2 months later
Quoted from tiesmasc:joelbob
The lower pictures looks like it is installed fine. Don't know why there are the "extra" screw holes for him moving the post... For reference here's a picture of mine with the plastics on... and also with plastics off (but with the inner lane guide removed... though you can see the holes where it would be installed match with your picture).
[quoted image] [quoted image]
Regarding that part over the saucer... my game doesn't have that and I suspect it is not stock. Was it to hold the switch that is normally attached to the ramp guide?
Thank you!
Quoted from Agent_Hero:I'd almost consider that cheating--at best, it's not OEM location.
What is the OEM location? Right up against the metal?
2 weeks later
Any advice on adjusting the 3rd ball lock switch or magnetic throwing power? Balls 1 and 2 lock fine and sit correctly on their switches. Ball 3 gets thrown back, hits ball 2 and then bounces back past its switch and just sits directly behind the 3rd switch. A little shake gets it to roll over the switch and register. If the magnet would throw it back softer then the ball wouldn’t bounce back as far. If the switch was more of a curved roll over then the straight up angled wire it currently is then the ball would probably roll back over it.
Quoted from Fish17:Can someone tell me where the 2 circled plastics are installed? I was replacing them yesterday but could find where either is installed.[quoted image]
Yeah the inner loop under the battle field. I could use one of those extras if you wouldn't mind shipping it out to me. I'd be happy to pay for it.
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