(Topic ID: 46571)

The Shadow Club

By marsgnu

6 years ago

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  • 6,503 posts
  • 549 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 hours ago by Lamprey
  • Topic is favorited by 183 Pinsiders


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Post #4322 Alternate Shadow Translite and Speaker Panel Posted by Aurich (2 years ago)

Post #4328 Shadow Manual Rubber Ring Chart link Posted by vireland (2 years ago)

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#2357 4 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

I put some SMD strips in and like an idiot, I think I had too many going to one part of the GI. Not my back right corner GI won't turn on. Did I blow a fuse or something worse? Any advice? Also I can't remove the fuse, it's very tight... Any advice on removing it?

Check for burnt connectors going to the board. If you still have regular bulbs then you probably shouldn't add to the circuits. There are fuse pulling tools or you can pry them out with a screwdriver. Most likely one blew. Check all of them with a multimeter. Had the same thing happen to me with different game.

6 months later
#2853 3 years ago

Finally get to be a member. It was an adventure getting this pin but it's finally in my house. Game is super clean and could easily be huo. It does have a few issues, though. Sanctum wall needs some kind of adjustment. It works fine in testing but not during gameplay. Ball also likes to get stuck on a plastic falling down the left side of the upper playfield. Looks like an odd design so not sure if I am missing something. Just need to spend some time with it and figure these things out. I'm just happy to have a nice Shadow. I've been wanting one for a while now.


#2870 3 years ago

I figured out my problems with the sanctum wall target and magnet. The coil swing arm was activating the switch. Basically the swing arm rested on the switch the whole time so the game thought the wall drop target was stuck down. That made the magnet not work during gameplay. It was hard to figure out because everything worked in testing. Once I adjusted the switch so only the drop target triggered it, it worked perfectly.

Anyone know what these loose cables are for? They look like they are for the speaker but other wires are hooked up to it.


#2873 3 years ago

Haven't traced the wires up yet. Will do this weekend. Just curious if they are stock. If not I will remove them.

1 week later
#2905 3 years ago

Anyone recognize this broken piece? It looks like part of a pin. It's brass looking and about the same gauge as the wire forms. Found it laying at the bottom of my cabinet when installing leds. Cab is pretty clean so don't think it is just some random junk. Everything is in great shape and plays great so cannot figure it out. Any ideas?


#2909 3 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Is it partially hollow, like a rivet?


#2910 3 years ago
Quoted from Glarrownage:

Hey guys, I'm close to finishing my restoration and I can't seem to get the diverted adjusted proper. No matter how I adjust them it still seems to make contact with the sides of the ramp. Is there a trick to keeping them from touching the ramps like a different size coil stop or something?

Are they not supposed to touch? Just checked my Shadow that I just got and both diverters touch the sides. Also noticed I was missing a screw holding one of the phurbas. Hope is not hard to find a replacement in the right finish.

Edit - forgot to say your Shadow looks awesome!

1 week later
#2924 3 years ago
Quoted from Pesmerga:

Hello guys one question, the skyscrapers back decal (or the one with the brick wall) is a simple adhesive or it is printed on some kind of plastic/plexiglass like those on the playfield? The Ebay seller has it in Vinyl sticker that has been laminated with mylar..it should be like this?

I ordered one and was told it was a plastic. Will find out soon.

3 weeks later
#2936 3 years ago

Anyone know where I can find one of the screws that hold the phurba down on the diverter? This was suggested in another thread but not sure if it is right. http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4006-01003-04Y

I tried my local hardware store but no success. Anyone ever track one down that fits and brass color?

#2937 3 years ago

On a side note, I hate when the guys in the hardware store ask what it is for. What difference does it make when I have a sample of the exact screw I am looking for? I tell them it's for a pinball machine and get that look.

2 weeks later
#2973 3 years ago

In case anyone is like me and missing one, I can confirm that this screw does work for the diverter phurbas and match the finish.


#2974 3 years ago

Borrowed some ideas from earlier in this thread and replaced all my star posts with purple ones lit with blue leds, even the one by the plunger. They are very bright so hard to get a good pic. I also added a spotlight with a purple bulb to the mini playfield. I wanted to mount it up front pointing back but there is just no room with the glass on. With it in the back on the left, there is too much glare. On the right it is better but still not completely happy with it. Plan on adding a few more spotlights to brighten up the game more.




#2976 3 years ago

Yeah, not sure that is working either. I wanted a little color down there but haven't found a good setup.

3 weeks later
#3007 3 years ago
Quoted from jwo825:

This was my machine and absolutely the best title I've owned. I kept it pretty clean but you have taken it to another level. You did probably the most tasteful LED job I've seen on this thread. Treat it good, it's a solid machine.
FYI to Pinside: TheCount was a pleasure to deal with. Knows his stuff, drove a long way to get this, and didn't try to tire kick when he got here. All around nice guy and I wouldn't hesitate to buy or sell from/to him again.

I played that Shadow at the local show last year and agree. It was fantastic. It convinced me that I wanted a Shadow for myself. Wish I knew it was for sale earlier since it would of saved me a lot of trouble getting my Shadow. I would say you got a pretty good deal, Count.

#3011 3 years ago

Not sure Shadow is a long term keeper yet. I finally got the game setup like I wanted with leds, spotlights, lit star posts, and Titan rubbers. The reinforced targets sure help air balls and believe I have the reset problems under control. Gameplay is just frustrating most of the time. It's really hard to get ball under control and even good shots result in drains. Starting modes is hard and the ball often fails to stick in scoop. I get a lot of stuck balls, too. Still, I keep coming back and hitting the start button. When I do complete a mode or have a good mb it feels like I really accomplished something.

#3021 3 years ago

Final Battle seems impossible to me. I'm terrible at the battlefield and even starting a mode is not easy. Adjusting settings like Luppin suggested did help, at least in the enjoyment factor. The ball just seems bouncy in the game. Often I try to catch the ball on the flipper but it bounces up, gets in the slings, and rockets down the outlane. MB is often laughably short. Still, like Art I have a great game here and there where the game shines. My best scores are usually when I get in a rhythm nailing ramp shots. What I enjoy doing mostly now is going for shadow loops and getting the combo value up. Love how the callouts for combos! It's pretty cool how many different ways you can play the game. Go for combos, vengeance, modes, multiballs, or even battlefield. I don't know if the game is a keeper or not but it's definitely not going anywhere for a while.

#3028 3 years ago
Quoted from Walleyefisher:

Proud new member of the club but need some advise on a few issues I'm experiencing:
1. Ball drops out of mini playfield and lands south of the wireform on the plastic and stays there. There is a shield on that plastic but I think it might be installed backwards. I have to pull the glass to get the ball out of this location
2. Ball drops out of mini playfield and lands on wireform and stops. For some reason that area of the track must be pretty level. I have the rear of the machine at max and front set as low as possible so my pitch should be ok. Also the machine is leveled left/right
3. Ball launch hits the entrance of the U-turn where it goes from headed north to headed south and gets rejected back to plunger sometimes it takes 3-4 times before it makes it onto the playfield.
Thanks for any tips or ideas.

When the ball falls out of the upper playfield, you need to move the paddle back and forth to flush out the ball. I had tons of stuck balls until I got in the habit of doing this. I still get a lot of stuck balls from air balls or whatever. I have had balls get stuck on the ramp like you mentioned. Mine also love to get stuck on top of the drop targets. Other than getting the right pitch and level, not sure what you can do.

With your ball launch, I would roll a ball up there by hand and test outside of a game. Might want to check the coil and see if it is the correct one. Too powerful maybe? Also check to make sure the plunger is making contact on the center of the ball.

#3050 3 years ago

Normally I keep settings close to default but Shadow really needs tweaking. Timers on most modes are pretty short which makes them impossible to finish. I like added ball saves to help cheap drain frustrations and longer mb ball locks to make mb more enjoyable. I got a triple jackpot this last weekend which would of been extremely tough on stock settings. It's still hard so feels good getting it. I also got a super jackpot last night. That was awesome! It's still a tough game even with easier settings. It just feels a bit more balanced now where I can actually complete things in the game.

#3060 3 years ago

I would loosen all connections and try to force it where it looks right. Hold it there while you tighten everything. Washers may help. I don't have the problem. The ball does fall off ramps sometimes but rarely.

I did have the problem of air balls off the left ramp targets. Replacing them with the reinforced ones helped greatly. Old ones were bent back pretty bad. The ball still bounces up off the targets a little but nothing like before and never over the flippers.

#3076 3 years ago

Anyone have a problem where the upper play field paddle stops moving left and right in middle of game? Mine was working fine while the ball was in play in the upper play field then just parked in the middle. It was still swatting at the ball but not responding to flipper buttons. Funny thing was that I completed the battlefield like that. Worked fine after that.

#3083 3 years ago

Here is mine that I finished not long ago. 2smd cool white in gi. 1smd for inserts. Added dual flex purple spotlight for mini playfield. Two cool white spotlights above slings. All blue lit purple star posts. Got that idea from earlier in the thread.

image (resized).jpg

#3100 3 years ago

I forget where I got the star posts but did buy the star posts lights from Comet. I remember someone else saying they had to be modified to fit and that was the case with me. None of them would fit under the star posts. I had to trim the corners of the led plastic holders and scrap the insides of the star posts to get them to fit.

I do really like the comet matrix system. I only soldered a few wires to the gi and was able to easily connect all the added lighting. All of it can easily be removed and makes it easy to experiment.

#3123 3 years ago

I would check the switch first. Make sure it is being triggered by drop target and nothing else. When I first got my Shadow I had similar problems. Magnet just engaged for a bit and ball would just fall back down. First thought something was wrong with magnet but it was the switch. Just had to adjust it properly.

#3131 3 years ago

Hard to say. I just know that the switch is very important for everything to work right. It's easy to check and easy to adjust so a good place to start. I have heard that a dimple in the wood can be an issue. I believe you can also adjust the magnet up and down.

#3144 3 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

You can remove it from the bottom. it's just a few screws. You shouldn't need to remove the whole battlefield.

+1. I did this and cleaned mine up. Works better but still have issue where sometimes they don't go down when hit.

#3156 3 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

I'm shopping my shadow now. How hard is it to remove drop target assembly for cleaning?

Naw. Nothing complicated. Hardest thing is undoing small c clips. Easy for those things to pop off and you end up with a fun little game of hide and seek. I took a few pics to make sure everything went back together the right way as well.

#3157 3 years ago

Anyone else have the problem where sanctum wall goes wonky? After a lock, sometimes my wall will go up and down a few times then stay down. Unless you power the ball into sanctum, magnet will hold the ball for a long time then drop it. At some point the game fixes itself and the sanctum works fine. Wall always works fine at start of game as well.

2 weeks later
#3202 3 years ago

I got to Final Battle for the first time last night. It didn't seem like I was playing that great but kept moving through the modes and getting extra balls. Final Battle is intense. Balls everywhere and you have to hit everything in a short amount of time. Ended up with 2.3b and real happy with that.

1 week later
#3232 3 years ago
Quoted from Circus_Animal:

Final Battle doesn't have a time limit.

Thought it did. Read up on it and see that it ends when only one ball left. It does have a long ball save so I just thought that was the timer. I don't know if it's my game or not but it's so hard to keep balls in play during mb. Balls just seem to hit each other and head straight to the outlanes. Such a difficult game yet I keep coming back for more.

1 month later
#3402 2 years ago
Quoted from Circus_Animal:

It screws into the bottom of the Battlefield. There are holes for the screws in the bracket that holds the drop target assembly. You'll notice that the steel rail around the orbit has a cutout; this is where the plastic sits once the Battlefield is lowered.
Sorry for no photos, I can't find my USB cable.

Here is a pic of the shield attached. I was just working on the battlefield replacing the drop target springs so figured I would snap a pic. The new springs totally fixed my targets not going down on hard hits. Happy about that.

IMG_20161218_153300_574 (resized).jpg

1 week later
#3424 2 years ago
Quoted from jedimastermatt:

I finally chased the last gremlin from my Shadow tonight. Since I've had the game, there's been one strand of GI in the back of the play field that has either flickered, been dim, or just been out. So I started with the usual and checked the connectors and headers and found them both burnt or scorched. I replaced them both and that fixed the being consistently out issue but they were still variably dim or occasionally flickerd.
I then turned my focus to the board. I toned the path and checked the triacs and transistors and it was still stumping me.
Last night I had a "break" through when I resorted to a little manual intervention to figure it out. The issue got better when I pressed on the connectors. I knew they were seated properly and in good shape so paid close attention to what the pressure was really doing. It was flexing the board. Which in turn flexed the trace enough to connect. There was a short in it after all.
When I toned it with my dmm out of the game, I was putting just enough pressure along with gravitys effect of the board laying flat. When the board went back in the game the standoffs would change it just enough to fail.
A simple jumper off the header pin to the triac fixed it.
It feels good to get these nagging problems knocked out.

Nice. I hate those kind of problems. I can't stand when one simple bulb is out. Glad you got it fixed.

3 weeks later
#3455 2 years ago

I would check the plunger tip as well. Make sure it is not coming apart and causing inconsistent hits.

1 week later
#3502 2 years ago
Quoted from KingDaddy:

Quick question - I want to switch the battlefield insert lights (to LED's)... I'm assuming I have to unscrew the battlefield from the top and lift up? Easy job?

Just unscrew the thumb screw on the left side and the whole upper playfield tilts up. Thing are packed under there but replacing bulbs is not hard imo.

1 month later
#3620 2 years ago
Quoted from wdd1169:

Hello, my name is Duane and The Shadow is my first 90's game. I am used to the classic Ballys and Sterns as I have completely restored a couple. That being said I dont think I am a complete newb to pinball just to this one. Anyway, when I got the machine home it started acting up so I put it in switch edge test, when I pressed on the playfield a bunch of switches lit up. So I searched for a loose wire and found one which I think is for the center stand up target(#56). Can someone let me know if their target has 2 white/blue wires going to it? So I connected the wire turned on the machine and got the rows out error. So I figured I must have fried the diode and U20. Changed diode and U20. Machine booted and then fried the 10 opto board. Any Ideas what I screwed up? Thanks Duane

Switches going off while banging playfield sound like opto problems to me. Whenever you have problems like that, it is good to take inventory of which switches are working and which are not. For reference, here is a pic of mine. The center target does have two blue/white wires and two green.

IMG_0318 (resized).JPG

#3633 2 years ago
Quoted from wdd1169:

Thanks Jawjaw. I definitely have an opto problem now. I ordered a new 10 opto board but don't want to put it in until I figure out what could have fried it. Any ideas? Can a bad diode cause Something like that?
Thanks again, Duane

I'm not real knowledgeable in these areas. You might want to post that question outside this topic since it is a more specific question on what happened to your opto board. Is the board repairable? You could always try swapping opto board in another pin and see if the board is really the issue. Check basics like every fuse, burnt connectors, battery damage, etc. Once you narrow the problem down it will be easier to diagnose.

#3661 2 years ago

This is the reinforced target. http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-18530-6R

My original targets were bent back. Being so close to the flippers they take a beating. I still get hops off the replaced reinforced targets but nothing over the flippers.

2 weeks later
#3695 2 years ago

I like to use Comet 1smd bulbs in inserts and the brighter 2smd bulbs in gi. For inserts, I just color matched and used warm white for yellow and orange inserts. That looks best. Purple is often overdone imo. I used cool white in most of the gi with a little color below the slings. I added two spotlights on the slings and a purple dual bendie to light up the battlefield and back area. I also added leds to all star posts. All very easy to do with the Comet matrix connectors. You only need to solder in a few connectors and then plug everything together.

IMG_0324 (resized).JPG

#3706 2 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

played around with some back box lighting tonight using a big variety of bulbs. Thought it came out pretty nice. Did a mix of blue super premiums (no top) and frosted purple super premiums for the sky. used cool whites around the moon, red supers on scarf area, and warm whites on shadows body. Lit the lamp in bottom left corner with warm white super (no top) and used difused orange opmax for the light over buildings on left side.

I suggest pulling some of the bulbs in the middle around Shadow's body. Free to try and I think it looks better.

#3732 2 years ago

Make sure the wall drop switch is activated by the wall itself and not anything else.

#3734 2 years ago

It just plays an explosive sound as far as I know.

#3744 2 years ago

My battlefield targets needed both a good cleaning and new springs to work right.

#3749 2 years ago

If they coil fires in test mode then it's probably switch related. Everything in pinball is controlled by switches. Test the switches for the individual drop targets or just test every switch in the game. Make sure each switch fires at the right time and not shorting.

#3759 2 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

I've got an interesting switch issue that's stumping me. I noticed that the shadow loop exit rollover switch (the one above the upper right flipper) wasn't working. I took a look at it in switch test with the playfield down and nada. I then flipped the playfield up and the switch registers perfectly in that position. I tried adjusting it a few times and it always registers with the playfield up...but once I put the playfield down I get nothing in switch test or in game. I replaced the switch earlier tonight and same damn thing????
Also, quick question: are the flippers supposed to work when you on the battlefield i.e. When you're using the flippers to move the paddle left and right should the flipper button press also activate the flippers?

If you pull up on the switch and let go with the playfield down, does it trigger the switch? It sounds like the switch has no spring and only works when gravity pulls the switch in the open position.

#3760 2 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

Found out that the switch in attached image is always showing open in switch test. Trying to figure out what to test from here.

You can try cleaning the opto or you will need to replace it.

1 week later
#3778 2 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

It is...same exact behavior with new switch. It's hard to tell, but I'm not seeing any obvious pull on the wires and the new solder joints are solid on the new switch...so it appears not to be the switch. There appears to be enough slack on the wires from the harness.
Any other ideas?

Strange. I would check all switches in test mode with playfield up and down. I had all sorts of grounding issues with my Congo. I had many areas where bare wire was showing or questionable. Also some loose wires. Once certain switches shorted out, the game did show errors and certain switches no longer worked. Replacing the u20 switch chip got it fixed but it would short quickly. You just got to examine all the switches in that switch series and check for bad wiring. It's got to be something under the playfield.

2 weeks later
#3823 2 years ago
Quoted from Cursed:

Is there a video of the 'grumpy' mod? There does not seem to be a thread for it and I am not 100% sure on what it does?
I originally thought it was going to kill all the lighting on the game except for the battlefield when it is in use but I don't think that's right?
Appreciate any help. Cheers.

Believe it to be the opposite. Battlefield only lit when in use. I prefer mine to be on all the time. I even put a light up there so it wouldn't be so dark. To each there own.

1 week later
#3844 2 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

When you shoot an orbit does it loop around and bounce off of the same flipper... for a flipper pass? My orbits seem to go down the middle if I don't flip... is this normal?

My game is like that. Ball goes so fast sometimes that you don't even get a chance to flip. A lot of times I will just hold the upper flipper up to prevent the drain. But sometimes that sends the ball straight down the left outlane. Tough game

1 month later
#3915 2 years ago
Quoted from horseflesh:

My Sanctum lock is acting up, and as far as I can tell, it isn't the usual suspects. Here's the problem: About 1 lock in 10, the lock sequence makes all the right sounds, and the wall drops, but the magnet doesn't activate. I don't mean it's weak or it drops the ball after the grab... It does not turn on at all.
- The opto appears to work perfectly, never failing to see the ball
- The wall target appears to work properly when tested (and, it has been replaced without fixing my problem ... and the magnet is supposed to fire the first time before the wall switch closes anyway, right?)
- The magnet works perfectly 90% of the time, and the rest of the time, it appears to not energize at all
- The game has never reported a switch error. If the wall switch is, say, getting stuck closed when it should be open (wall up), that state has never happened at boot time
I have made a video showing the malfunction in action. It is about 2 minutes long. (I even filmed the wall drop mech from underneath!) I'd be hugely appreciative if any other agents of the Shadow could take a look and give me some ideas. I expect I have just misunderstood or misdiagnosed something but it's been vexing me for a long time.
» YouTube video

Mine gave me a lot of problems when I first got it. Turned out to be a switch adjustment issue but game never reported switch errors. Mine still acts up once in a while.

1 week later
#3967 2 years ago
Quoted from Dragon36:

How's the lasting ability with this pin. I'm leaning towards this for my next pin.

I'll be honest. I feel like throwing my Shadow out the front door now and then. Gameplay can be extremely frustrating. Hitting the start mode shot is really tough. The frustrating part is that when you finally do make a clean shot, the ball often bounces out of the saucer. Same for the battle field. Maybe it's just my game but you really got to fight to accomplish anything in the game. Yet, I keep hitting that start button - probably more than my other games. You feel pretty good when you can just finish a mode or do anything in the game. It really helps to play with the settings to make things a little easier. The best thing is getting dialed in on the ramp shots. So good hitting the diverters and banging ramps to get vengeance points. It's a good pin but wouldn't recommend it if it was your only pin.

#3974 2 years ago
Quoted from horseflesh:

Mine rarely rejects either shot, there must be a way to tune yours. It's worth fiddling with, the game is hard enough when it is working 100%!

It's weird - it will be fine a bunch of games and then it will reject almost all shots. Battlefield saucer is the worst. I saw a post on putting magnetic tape on the TZ lock shot to fix rejects. Might try that on battefield. Just to busy to mess with pins right now. I'm embarrassed how dirty my pins are right now.

#3975 2 years ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

For me, hitting ramps and going for Vengeance is usually when I score the least. My best scoring games are when I play a lot of modes, cash in a bunch of loop combos, and play multiballs(Khan is usually worth more than the main MB). I used to love going for the Battlefield but at least on mine, the exit off the Battlefield just puts the ball WAY out of control and usually leads to a drain. I've had mine for about 9 months and have only made it to Final Battle twice. Didn't even come close to finishing it. Love the game though!

Agreed. Play strat is go fo battlefield early to get extra ball. Then play out modes with avoiding all ramp shots unless ball save on. I just hate playing the same way over and over. I find it more relaxing to just play out things and just gave fun.

#4014 2 years ago
Quoted from dudah:

I worked through all the scenes but the insert for "complete all scenes" didn't light, the modes just started over. I didn't necessarily complete them as I probably drained during at least one. Didn't hit the saucer, guess I'll try again next time

You sure the insert light is working? Like others said, you don't have to finish any modes just start them. Same for other items in scarf except battlefield. You have to defeat the battlefield at least once. Final Battle will light when you light all the scarf inserts. It would be very easy to test this with glass off.

#4033 2 years ago
Quoted from kwiKimart:

I got an issue with mine. No sound is coming out of it. I checked the batteries and it looks fine. Boards look good too. Yet, still no sound. Please help.

Have you checked fuses with a multimeter? That's the first thing to check when things start going wrong with boards. Other thing to always check is for loose or burnt connectors.

#4041 2 years ago

I put Titan rubbers in my games. There is usually enough info online and in manuals to figure it out. Manuals as sometimes incorrect, though. I also have nvram in my shadow. It works great and cheap but not easy to install. Soldering is involved so best to have an experienced board repair person do it. Nvram works fine on any game but games with midnight madness will no longer do that mode correctly because time is no longer tracked.

#4046 2 years ago

It will be difficult getting just one plastic piece - probably would have to get a whole set. Quick search and it looks like no sets are currently available. That sucks. Maybe some more will be made in the future.

I would check to see if you mini playfield is seated all the way down. Looks like it is at an up angle some.

1 week later
#4072 2 years ago
Quoted from Aurich:

Thinking this might be the last time I print them, getting too hard to get enough people together, takes too long, then people flake or sell the machine or something.

Strange since it seems like people are always asking for them. I sold an extra set I had a while back and got a lot of interest. Asked what I paid and it sold it quick. I bought it before getting a Shadow to make sure I would not miss out. Ended up getting a Shadow with it so didn't need it. I highly recommend anyone thinking about getting a Shadow to get a set. Looks awesome lit up with the right leds. I recommend removing some of the middle lights to get the right contrast. Speaker panel looks very sharp as well. Even if you never get a Shadow, you could flip the set for a few bucks extra down the road when they are no longer available.

1 month later
#4148 2 years ago
Quoted from waspinat0r:

Could someone please take a picture of your upper playfields Molex connector I'm having issues with my drop bank working and I feel like wires came out of the connector and I'm not sure which wires go with which thank you very much

What are the drop targets doing? Not dropping, not going back up, not resetting, or what? Mine were sticky or wouldn't drop. All they needed was a good cleaning and new springs.

1 month later
#4257 2 years ago

I could use some help with my wall target. The wall target stopped going down a little while ago. I could see no problem with the small coil (SM 30-1100-DC) so I took apart the assembly. Everything looked fine and coil moved freely. I put it back together and it worked fine for a short while but same problem again. In testing, I can hear what sounds like a small tapping noise coming from that area but cannot get the coil to fire. No other problems with the game. Other coils work and fuses check out okay. I checked the resistance and it is 16 ohms. That seems high compared to other coils but not sure if that is normal for that particular coil. Should I replace the coil or is does it sound like a board issue?

2 weeks later
#4284 2 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

I could use some help with my wall target. The wall target stopped going down a little while ago. I could see no problem with the small coil (SM 30-1100-DC) so I took apart the assembly. Everything looked fine and coil moved freely. I put it back together and it worked fine for a short while but same problem again. In testing, I can hear what sounds like a small tapping noise coming from that area but cannot get the coil to fire. No other problems with the game. Other coils work and fuses check out okay. I checked the resistance and it is 16 ohms. That seems high compared to other coils but not sure if that is normal for that particular coil. Should I replace the coil or is does it sound like a board issue?

Follow up: problem turned out to be the plunger part. The shaft and tip were coming apart. If spun a certain way it would hold together and work. Replaced the part and problem fixed. Something to check if having problems with wall dropping.

20171117_194303 (resized).jpg

3 weeks later
#4349 1 year ago
Quoted from fosaisu:

I like ice blue better of those two, but still think warm white wins out on the mode inserts. There's enough blue tone surrounding them that I just think they look better with the white letters against black background when they're illuminated.

I tried ice blue and other colors and didn't like it. Like fosaisu said, there is a lot of blue in the art so white looks better. I used cool white in mine as well as cool white in gi. Only use warm white to light yellow and orange inserts.

1 week later
#4369 1 year ago
Quoted from tjprice222:

I have whites in the main play field but nothing close to the battlefield. I also shielded the optos from any reflection off the back glass but it didn’t make a difference.

Have you tried replacing the receiver?

2 weeks later
#4386 1 year ago

What a beauty! I like what you did with those spotlights in the back. Love to see it light up.

1 week later
#4417 1 year ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Did you clean and polish the mount and targets? How are the springs?

I had issues with my targets sticking and not working right. Cleaning helped but replacing springs is what really fixed it. Looking at the manual, the spring is part# 10-364. Replace all four.


1 week later
#4423 1 year ago

There used to be a guy selling a plastic with that decal on ebay. Not sure if he is still doing that. I got his email from a friend and he still sent me one a while back. Didn't fit all that great but I made it work. I forget the email address, though. There is also a red brick version but I prefer the city one.

#4426 1 year ago

Those city inner cab decals look pretty good. I like the colors and simple design that matches the plastics in the game.

1 month later
#4472 1 year ago

Sanctum wear is probably the biggest thing. Any divets or heavy wear can be an issue. Make sure the ball lock mechanism/magnet works. Check diverter action as well. I would also check for missing phurbas or mongols. Those are cosmetic but don't think anyone remakes these.

#4478 1 year ago

Great job, sebo! Really like the brick speaker panel.

2 weeks later
#4521 1 year ago

I get a lot of rejects, too. Not sure how to fix. Shot is kind of like TZ lock shot. Ball has to turn a bit so my guess is ball rattles around. One fix for TZ was a thin magnetic strip on ball guide. Helps cushion and hold ball. Not sure that will work for Shadow, though.

1 week later
#4529 1 year ago

Agree with mbaumle. Try tugging on each wire when checking. I remember having an intermittent switch issue on my Congo a while back. Everything looked good but when you pulled on one wire it just slipped out of the solder connection.

2 months later
#4649 1 year ago
Quoted from gjm7777:

I'm pretty sure my Complete all Scenes insert is always lit on the scarf - any ideas why that would be?

Do you have leds? Could be ghosting bad. If so, try a regular incandescent bulb.

#4651 1 year ago

The mode insert will stay lit once played. You don't have to actually complete it. The Completed All Scenes insert in the scarf should only light when you gone through all the modes. LEDs can ghost in specific inserts at specific times in the game. It might be related to another insert being lit or just part of the game. Ghosting is where there is some voltage on the circuit that will light an LED because it uses less voltage than an incandescent. You can quickly determine if it's a ghosting issue by trying an incandescent bulb or non ghosting LED.

I've run into ghosting problems like that where it is only one or two inserts. On a couple of occasions, my Shadow ghosts and flickers real bad on a bunch of inserts. It's weird because I will swap one bulb for an incandescent and the problem goes away. I can then put back in the same LED and everything will still be fine.

1 month later
#4752 1 year ago
Quoted from Mudflaps:

I posted earlier with some speaker woes. Bottom line, the sound board is good. I have FF speakers.
The problem: on boot up, the back box speakers give a steady pop, like a rapid drumbeat. I believe I’ve narrowed the problem to a grounding issue.
When I touch both speakers at the same time, the problem goes away.
Can someone post a picture of where the grounding cables are located in the backbox? Maybe I have something backwards.
This is my backbox:[quoted image]

Pretty sure it's the green/yellow wire but not real experienced with this sort of thing. I would check that wire on the left speaker and see if connection is loose.

2 weeks later
#4787 1 year ago

The post next to the ball eject only has one rubber ring on my game. Only posts with double rings is the outlane posts but those should be metal.

#4792 1 year ago

I looked again at my game and there are no double ring star posts. There is a hidden single ring star post under the left diverter. Looks like it is used to prevent the ball from getting stuck there.

3 weeks later
#4862 1 year ago

I'm having some problems with my sanctum drop target. During the lock sequence, the target drops, the ball goes in the lock like it should, the target goes back up, then right back down, then up for a second, and then down for good. It will correct itself later in the game like at the start of another ball. It sometimes works fine.

I've always had this issue and got it to be fairly rare with adjusting the switch at the bottom of the sanctum target. I recently made an adjustment to the bottom screw to get the target to sit more level to the playfield when down. For some reason this made the sanctum target act up like 1 out of 3 lock sequences. I've tried to adjust the switch and it does trigger by the wall coming down. Works perfectly in switch test. Does this switch need to be adjusted a certain way? It seems pretty simple but something is not right.

#4868 1 year ago
Quoted from Manny65:

I had the same issue on mine. The slot in the bracket pivot assembly (A-18777) and the associated pin on the plunger bracket (A-18752) can become worn and create the symptom you are experiencing - the slot becomes slightly enlarged while a groove will be worn on the pin. The amount of wear may not look that much but there is enough slop now in the movement that you can get these intermittent issues and replacing them for me fixed the issue.

Appreciate the info. Probably need to do the same and get everything fresh. I don't see where you can buy A-18752. Everyone sold out. Where did you source yours?

1 week later
#4870 1 year ago
Quoted from Manny65:

I got it from Marco earlier this year but seems they are now out of stock. Had a quick search - Pinball Heaven in the UK have them in stock https://www.pinball.co.uk/product/shadow/bracket-plunger-a-18752/

Don't think they have it either. That or their website is broken. I've been busy with other stuff but finally pulled the sanctum assembly. Those parts are definitely worn. There is a big groove in pin but there is a plastic sleeve covering it up. Sleeve forces the contact area to lower section of pin where not worn. I take it this is not stock. Decent solution if part is no longer available. I ordered another bracket (a-18777) so hope that fixes it.

20180916_200502 (resized).jpg
3 weeks later
#4921 1 year ago

Do you have a spring on the coil plunger? Not sure if that matters. Here is a pic of my coil. Mine sometimes bounces back down but kind of rare.

20181014_152922 (resized).jpg
2 weeks later
#4966 1 year ago

I have the same problem. I dug into it not long ago thinking I could flip that plastic or something. Turns out the plastic only can go on one way. Mine is curved a bit. Not sure if it is warped or supposed to be like that.

#4976 1 year ago
Quoted from Demoman1:

Going to have to give this problem some attention. Just can't keep pulling the glass or tilting. Gotta be a solution.

I removed the tilt bob on mine so I can move the game around when needed. I've heard that pitch makes a lot of difference in gameplay. Is yours at the recommended pitch? Mine is a bit low so that might be part of the problem.

4 weeks later
#5065 1 year ago
Quoted from rottenrobert1313:

Working on a Shadow. Can anyone look at this picture and tell me where these wires go??? They are green/orange and white/yellow playfield switch wires. BUT those wires are already going to J207 and J209. So...are they broken off from the connectors? If so, I'll install new connectors and trifurcon pins. Just want to make sure before I do so...don't want to blow the switch line. Anyone that can snap a picture of their shadow and post, I'd much appreciate it.
[quoted image]

Believe they go to j206 and j208.

20181129_203757 (resized).jpg
2 weeks later
#5111 11 months ago

Maybe the Discover card is a debit card loaded with $1500.

2 weeks later
#5164 11 months ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Care to explain how you accomplished this?

Repro playfield has added inserts for headlights. Wish it was an easy mod for a stock playfield. Looks awesome!

#5179 11 months ago

Drooling over that chrome trim!

3 weeks later
#5269 10 months ago
Quoted from RTS:

Check out the Led Flex bulbs from Comet.
It will allow you to bend and aim the light while still providing clearance for the pf glass without interfering with the ball on the battlefield.

I used a 2 headed smd flex bulb in a socket in the back right corner of the upper pf. I have one led aimed at the upper pf area and another down to the back of the pf. I wanted the socket out of view when playing them game. That's the nice thing about the flex leds - you can mount the socket any way that works best and aim the leds where they need to go. Comet also has the Matrix system which makes it super easy to add lighting. Everything uses connectors so no soldering.

#5283 10 months ago
Quoted from RockBass14:

Excellent! Yes, compared to the picture you posted, mine definitely looks backwards. I'll swap that thing around and it makes sense that the stuck balls should stop.....Thank you!

I don't think you can mount that plastic backwards. I thought mine was backwards since the ball occasionally gets stuck on top of it. I took things apart to play with it and found that it only mounts one way. My plastic had a curve to it. Not sure if it is supposed to be like that or it is warped.

#5330 10 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Would be good to swap the opto boards although it is strange that it only misfires when the kicker is being moved left or right (almost as if there is a wire related issue somewhere)

Thinking the same thing. I forget exactly but know there are optos under upper pf that help control the paddle. Could be issues with these optos that trigger other opto events. Do you have the switch test on screen while doing this? You should be able to see which switches/optos are firing.

#5342 9 months ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

Was still dealing airballs off of right standup. Used one of my old plastics from the game. Ground down on a bench grinder and attached. Problem solved.
[quoted image]

Looks like your switch bracket is bent. Those take a beating and get bent back causing balls to ramp off them. You can put more padding behind the switch or get the reinforced switches. I don't think that plastic is going to last long sticking out like that.


#5366 9 months ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

I added color changing flex heads by the buildings in the background.
The Sunlight frosted 2835 wash enough of it out, so that it looks like explosions, or gunfire
far in the background. A White blinking bulb will do same, but I like the subtle affect.
Oh, and a self frosted top only flat top in warm for the street light, or a blinking bulb....
One can add green for the letters, or red for the scarf, but its not a huge difference.[quoted image]

I lit my alt translite up very similar. I used some colors to enhance the sunset, scarf, and blue in the sky but not much. I do recommend removing some of the bulbs in the middle. Looks better when the Shadow character is not lit up so bright. More shadowy lol.

#5383 9 months ago
Quoted from bwill:

Question for all of you here...
I am considering the Shadow as my first pin. I'm not afraid of maintenance and repair, but it will likely be my only pin (for at least a while) and I'm curious to how everyone feels about the relative amount of work that this machine would need relative to others of a similar age/price-range. I was really wanting a Star Trek: The Next Generation, but warned that it could be a headache to upkeep.
So, would you consider this a good pin for a newbie?

I wouldn't be put off by any maintenance rumors. If you find a pin that is well maintained and in good shape, it should be fine. All pins end up needing some maintenance and any pin can have it's headaches - even NIB pins. Issues are typically the same no matter what the pin. Once you work out all the issues, most pins are fairly trouble free. You just need to be comfortable getting under the playfield, taking things apart, and basic soldering. I've heard STTNG has a lot of optos that can get flaky. If you replace all the transmitters then that takes care of most of the headaches.

I highly recommend getting the pin you enjoy the most. If you really like STTNG, get one - you will not regret it. Shadow is a great pin but not sure it's the best in a one pin lineup. It's a tough game and can get pretty frustrating, especially for novices.

1 week later
#5410 9 months ago

Check the switch at the bottom of the sanctum wall target. It probably just needs adjusting. Switch should trigger when wall target is down.

#5415 9 months ago

How did you test the switch? With your finger? If so, then that is not a good test. It needs to trigger when the plastic sanctum wall is down. Manually drop the wall target and see if that triggers the switch. I bet you need to twist the switch counter clockwise a bit and tighten. If it gets loose, the sanctum will push it back and then not trigger. You also want to make sure the swing arm does not trigger the switch - only the wall target.

#5422 9 months ago
Quoted from pacman11:

Yeah I tested with my hand to make sure it was working. The swing arm is resting on the switch and is triggering the switch and yet the wall is in the up position is that correct???
so the swing arm shouldn't trigger the switch in resting mode? I can probably bend the switch a little and that way it doesn't register it..
I guess I am not understanding how this mech works fully.

The swing arm should NOT be triggering the switch. When the pf is down, gravity will bring the swing arm down. If that triggers the switch then the game will think the wall is down when it is up. ONLY the red wall target should activate the switch as it moves down. Go into the menu settings and drop the sanctum wall. Get under the pf and manually move the wall target up and down some without locking it up in switch test mode. Verify the switch is only activating from the wall target and not the swing arm.

The sanctum target mech works off of a couple of coils, an opto, and a switch. The opto tells the game when the ball has crossed the magnet. The small coil will release pin holding wall target so it will drop. The switch at the bottom of the wall target will tell the game when the wall is down (or up if switch not triggered). The other coil will be used to raise the target back up.

#5435 9 months ago
Quoted from mobilexx:

Please help!!
I have a Shadow that only the left flipper worked, so replaced the right opto flipper board, and then the lower right started working, but upper didnt..
Left and right flipper buttons only register one square each in the switch test grid...
I have 13v at the upper flipper board coming from both optos on right side , and when I press button, they drop to 0.. not sure if this is how you test them... any ideas ?

Have you tried swapping boards and see if the problem follows a board? Is your interrupter arm broken? You could try manually tripping optos to see if they work correctly.

1 month later
#5534 8 months ago

That's how it's supposed to look. Not sure what you think is missing. You need clear view of paddle to use it and nothing to block ball from falling off battlefield.

#5573 8 months ago
Quoted from Scoot:

If you haven't already, reseat your ribbon cables in the back box.

Especially the one ribbon cable that goes to the dmd.

1 month later
#5673 6 months ago
Quoted from Graysonsdad:

My gi and backglass lights have a slight flickering to them. Any
advice is appreciated.
Also need to find a battlefield lockdown pin (I just have the

Check your settings. Dimming should be turned off for leds.

#5697 6 months ago
Quoted from Stuieb84:

I'm on the Aurich list and can't wait to get mine.
A couple of questions from a new 'the Shadow' devotee (mine arrived 6 days ago):
* are the new mantis ramps worth it?
* if I am to metal plate the ramps and wireframes, does this wear quickly?
* what does this group think about pinblades? do the ones that are available fit this theme?
* what are the best rubbers/silicone for the shadow pinball?
* what colors do you recommend for powdercoating the sides and lock bar? the one that I purchased came with a gold/black, but I am thinking to get it replaced with a metallic blue or purple.
* Any other pearls of wisdom for a newbie shadow owner?
Stuie B

For Mantis stuff - https://mantispinball.com/

Mantis parts work great as factory replacments but I would ramps unless they are broken. In general, I would not spend too much on plating, blades, powdercoating, etc. I get trying to make the game nice but you will not get that money back. Better to save your money to trade up to a nicer game later or find a way to squeeze in another pin. If you can only have one pin, I would plan on rotating games often to keep things fresh. Any one pin gets old pretty fast.

For rubbers, check out Titan. They are silicon rubbers and work well as a rubber replacement. They don't get dirty as fast as rubbers and of course you get lots of color choices. I use them on all my games but still use regular rubbers on flippers.

#5720 6 months ago
Quoted from Graysonsdad:

I'm a new owner. Just a couple gameplay q's. How am I lighting "shadow knows"? Is it always 10m or does it grow?
What does the target between the battlefield vuc and the ball lock wall do exactly. I'm having a hard time figuring it out. I feel like it has given me Khan letters or mongol letters but it hard to tell mid gameplay.


This will answer a lot of rules questions. Shadow Knows comes from spelling MONGOL I believe. Target by battlefield spots a letter. It's not something I actively shoot for so not sure. KHAN letters advances your bonus multiplier and lights Khan MB. My strategy is typically trying to start modes and completing the battlefield early to get extra ball. I try to start a MB with a mode running and go for shadow loops when I can. If you get three shadow loops in a row you get an extra ball. You can also get an extra ball in video mode - just make sure to use the gun trigger about halfway through to make sure you get it. Vengeance Mode is fun but not worth the risk if trying to complete the scarf.

#5722 6 months ago
Quoted from Graysonsdad:

Thanks. I beat the Phurba video for the first time last night. It will be much easier if the gun (I'm assuming here) kills incoming phubas AFM saucer mode style.
I'll have to go for the shadow loop extra ball. Didnt know that one.

Gun will wipe out all phurbas for a short time. However, mode will get much tougher after they reappear. Best to time it near the end or right before extra ball appears. Important thing for me is getting that extra ball.

It's worth trying the left orbit and shadow loop combo. Starts out at 10 million then +3million for following combos for rest of game. Very hard to get three in a row, though. Not sure how you do it other than repeated shots, but orbits can become 20 million for each shot, too.

#5729 6 months ago
Quoted from dudah:

Who's good at hitting the upper loop and saucer?
I can maybe hit it 1 out of 10 tries.
My flipper is aligned to barely rest on the ball guide behind it, perhaps my game needs to be re-leveled?
That being said, I can hit the battlefield shot pretty consistently from the upper flipper

Same here. Problem for me is that the ball goes extremely fast around the orbit/loop. Sometimes it catches the post about the upper flipper and slows it down and sometimes it doesn't. Regular mb is pointless because it's so hard to hit that loop and then it's only 20m when you do.

#5754 6 months ago

Lots of threads on lcd vs led. All personal preference. Lcd does have display options that led does not. I find led too bright and coarse. Lcd softer and more natural looking to me. If unsure, just get lcd. It's what most people buy.

1 week later
#5776 6 months ago
Quoted from Jimmyhonda:

It seems that my flippers on shadow aren't as strong as they were just a couple days ago. I recently had a repair done on the GI lights and sound, but that's it. I can barely get the ball up the ramps now?? They used to be powerful and rip up the ramps. I'm stumped. Any idea what could be wrong? Please help. Thank you!!!

What exactly was the repair work? Are all three flippers weak? Move them manually be hand just to make sure there is no mechanical drag/tension. I would also make sure the eos switch is not stuck on.

1 week later
#5815 5 months ago
Quoted from Yesh23:

I just joined the club! What do people do to brighten up the upper playfield?

I put a double flex led in the back right corner of the upper pf. One head pointed down towards back of game and the other pointed towards middle of upper pf. It does a pretty good job lighting up everything and super easy install.

#5823 5 months ago

Cool idea. Do you have to extend the switch wires? I've had issues with that switch as well.

#5829 5 months ago
Quoted from stevevt:

Must have mods:
Aurich translite and speaker panel
That's it, IMO. Then again, I just bought this one with a whole lot more mods than just these 2:

Congrats! I think you got a killer deal on that one given the new playfield, new parts, mods, colordmd, and custom painting. Love the custom painted sanctum wall target. Looks like real brick.

One thing I think the game needs that most do from that time is added lighting. Upper pf and back area are a little dark.

#5840 5 months ago
Quoted from Sean_R:

Hey all! So happy to find this topic
Question re: a fuse that keeps blowing every time I push the "Start" button. For whatever reason, this same fuse blows before the ball gets kicked out into the shooter lane (see attached photo).
Has anyone ever experienced this issue? If so, any insights into what the problem might be?
Thanks in advance![quoted image]

You have a short somewhere in that circuit. That's fuse F112. Try looking up what's on that circuit. I'm not sure but guessing it has something to do with the coils. Once coils get energized on game start something shorts. Start with looking for any of the coil lugs touching metal brackets or other bare wires. Maybe wire or diode came loose.

2 weeks later
#5937 5 months ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Now my left flipper likes to stay half way up some times. Dirty coil sleeve? Dirty opto sensor?
[quoted image]

Not going to be opto. Sounds like a mechanical issue if it sticks and returns to normal operation. Try moving flipper by hand and feel for any binding. It should move effortlessly. Take flipper off and check coil sleeve. Make sure flipper bushing is in good shape, clean everything, and gap flipper correctly when installed. There is a gap tool you can use or make your own with old credit card.

#5951 5 months ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Ended up just being an exhausted spring. I cut it down shorter and its working great now. I guess flipper rebuilds should be on my list....game shoots fine though. I even get air balls off the G target next to the left ramp. Some times right down the left outlane....grrrr

Glad you got the flippers worked out. Might be a good idea to just rebuild flippers. I'm starting to do that on all games I get. Good to make sure right parts are installed and everything setup correctly. Make sure to replace the bushings when you do a rebuild. They are not included in the kits.

Air balls off the left ramp targets are common. They take a pounding and the metal backside gets bent back. This is what causes balls to ramp off. You can try to bend it straighted and put extra padding behind the target or get the reinforced targets. Balls were flying over the flippers on my game but these targets fixed it. Busted the corner off one of them a little while ago and need a new one myself.


1 week later
#6014 5 months ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

I prefer LED because I find the resolution on the LCD is not high enough to look smooth. Now if there was a retina color LCD, that’d be a different story.

Resolution is fine on LCD. Up scaling is done by software and detail is going to be very limited based on the input that is only 192x64. You can displays dots exactly the same as LED panel or original dmd. That's the advantage of the LCD display - you have a variety of display modes. I also don't get the criticism of the LCD not fitting perfectly in the speaker panel. It fits fine and displays perfectly. Only problem would be games where the LCD does not fit like CV or games that have lighted inserts on speaker panel like TAF. It should only come down to which one looks better to you.

#6033 4 months ago

Great job, Twister! Looks amazing installed.

1 week later
#6097 4 months ago
Quoted from Lermods:

I get a lot of airballs off the left ramp targets, is there a fix for this?

Back metal support of switch is probably bent back. You can bend it back and use extra padding but probably not a long term solution. Get the reinforced switches and that should fix it for good.


#6106 4 months ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

Also, the diverters and the flipper buttons are not working. Not sure if they are not activated until a ball is in the shooter lane? Thanks.

You have a lot of different problems. I would focus on one thing at a time like the missing ball. Anytime you have issues it doesn't hurt to check all the fuses with a multimeter. Check all your board connections and make sure connectors are not off by one pin or loose. Flippers and diverters should work as soon as you start a game. However, voltage to coils is cut if coin door is open. Easy to forget that when working on bunch of different issues.

2 months later
#6311 59 days ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Bend the end of the switch out a little and it should help with registering the shot. It's a common issue, the switch is basically mounted too low on the wireforms.

Adjusting the switch worked for me. Look back at rotordave posts. He fabbed an extension to better position the switch.

3 weeks later
#6383 32 days ago
Quoted from Johncare07:

The magnet test for the sanctum says it is not working properly. Does anyone know where to start to fix it? The brick wall will not retract since the magnet isn’t working. I thought it might be a fuse, but don’t see where in the manual it has a fuse? Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
[quoted image][quoted image]

The magnet is not working or the wall does not work? Test if the wall can rise and drop in the test menu. There are two switches that control the ball lock sequence. The opto detects the ball as it enters the sanctum and triggers the magnet. Make sure it works. The second switch is under the playfield and detects when the wall is in the down position. You need to make sure it is triggered by the wall target itself and nothing else. If the switches work and not the magnet, I would check all fuses and wiring to the magnet.

1 week later
#6396 24 days ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Need some insight from the shadow lovers.
I put new flasher domes on, and new bulbs. Worked for about a week then blew fuse F111.
I pulled all the sockets out, did not replace them, left them out of the game. Still blows.
I popped connectors J106&J107 off, still blows.
I do NOT have a print manual unfortunately so I dont have the schematics.
Any helps is appreciated.

You can read the manual online:

Sounds like you have a short. Check what is on fuse f111 and inspect those areas.

1 week later
#6458 11 days ago
Quoted from MikeS:

Are these brackets really necessary? I've owned two different Shadows over the course of 12 years' and my fix was just to install a 4" wire actuator on the switch. It registers 100% of the time over thousands of games and is barely noticeable. I think it's even less noticeable than the plastic switch extender.[quoted image]

I'm guessing each game is a little different. Mine does not have a big problem with a long switch arm. It did have to spend some time adjusting it to get it right, though. My question is does this switch extension block your view? It seems like you are moving the switch right in the middle so you are looking right at it as a player.

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