(Topic ID: 46571)

The Shadow Club

By marsgnu

11 years ago


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  • 10,927 posts
  • 754 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 days ago by allsportdvd
  • Topic is favorited by 279 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

4 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #73 Insert LED bulbs and colors Posted by MnHotRod (11 years ago)

Post #4322 Alternate Shadow Translite and Speaker Panel Posted by Aurich (6 years ago)

Post #4328 Shadow Manual Rubber Ring Chart link Posted by PinMonk (6 years ago)

Post #7873 The Shadow pistol grip info Posted by RobDutch (3 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#14 11 years ago
Quoted from Pinmeister:

How about a Shadow done in brass? All ramps, diverters, and wireforms plated by Mike Chestnut.

Woooooooooooowwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww

10 years later
#10572 7 months ago

Any chance someone could help me out with a picture of the switch connectors on the CPU board, specifically J206-J209? I'm chasing down an absolutely maddening switch problem and want to make sure the wires are connected properly.

#10574 7 months ago

Thank you very much! But now I'm even more confused lol. Mine has 2 additional wires on on the connector above, these apparently lead to the left phurba diverter control button on the cabinet. When it is pressed it triggers 5 other switches on the matrix. I wanted to make sure these were in the right spot, pretty strange it differs so much from yours. Thank you though!

Quoted from emsrph:

[quoted image]

PXL_20230909_213426959 (resized).jpgPXL_20230909_213426959 (resized).jpg
#10577 7 months ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

That's because the image is for a WPC-89 standard (non-security) rather than a WPC-S (security).

Thank you for the image. I never understand why people ask someone else to open up their machine and post an image rather than posting an image of what you have. Weird. It's so easy to post an image of what you have and then have someone help based on that.

[quoted image]
Pin #1 is shown in the red box. Count the pins. Make sure the GRN-ORG is in pin #3 and WHT-YEL is in pin #4.

Thank you!

I used that image and they are on the correct pins. I still have the problem but am figuring out more clues. My left phurba diverter button is triggering multiple switches. I swapped out the board, swapped in the right switch and I still have the problem. I disconnected most switches where I could. The problem persists. What's happening is the left phurba button opens the normally closed trough 4 switch, closes the phurba switch AND closes the whole column of any switch using the white-yellow wire that is manually depressed or logically closed at the same time. So the whole column of the "always closed" cabinet switch closes when the phurba button is pressed and the trough 4 opens. But disconnecting the trough opto boards doesn't fix it, also, if I press multiple white-yellow switches at the same time as the phurba button I can close multiple columns in the matrix. I've been pulling my hair out all day today lol.

#10579 7 months ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

Take things one at a time. A "binary" search can help narrow things down faster.

Disconnect the J3 on the 10-opto switch board. Try again in the switch edge test. If the problem goes away then stop. Report. If it remains leave the connector disconnected and continue.
Disconnect J207+J209 (the connectors with all the wires) from the CPU board. Try again in the switch edge test. If the problem goes away then stop. Report. If it remains leave the connectors disconnected and continue.
Disconnect J212 from the CPU board. Try again in the switch edge test. Report either way since this is the last step.

You can disconnect those connectors with the power on. Just be careful you don't short things around. There is very little risk. This is all 12VR on the switch matrix.

Thank you for the help! Disconnecting J3 did not change it. Disconnecting either 207 or 209 or both stops it for hitting multiple switches.

#10582 7 months ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

This means you most likely have a playfield wiring problem. It could also be the left phurba control switch wiring. Post an image of that switch wiring for a second opinion. If the switch registers in isolation (as you say) then it's not on the board (which is 100% consistent because the software doesn't see individual switches). It's in the wiring.
Otherwise, go over any prior work you did to the switch matrix on this machine, if you did any. You will have to inspect all the relevant switches. If you're uncertain then you will have to post images of the switch wiring for all switches in column 3 and row 4 for visual inspection by forum members viewing this thread.

Thank you very much! A wiring problem is kinda where I was at too. I've never really tried to diagnose a switch matrix problem so this has been a learning experience, and still is lol. Thanks for pointing me at col 3 and row 4, that's where I'll focus my attention.

#10583 7 months ago
Quoted from emsrph:

Sorry, had all of my game photos on my phone and picked the wrong one. Added the correct photo back above but you are in better hands now.

Thanks for the help though! I appreciate you updating. Hopefully it also helps someone in the future.

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