You know you want it!

Maybe, or you may have other issues. Read the manual and use test functions. You can have the machine turn all the lamps on at once. Then you can look for burn bulbs.

Easy for you!! Not for me.

Cut jumpers on CPU board W15,W16,W17,W18. Then game defalts to english.

Remove the burrs from the shaft with a file, then lube it. It will come out then.

I think you would need the optos flip from left to right along with reversing the motor leads.

Is this an LED? I didn't think an LED would dim unless there is a OCD board.

No, its gummed up and needs to be cleaned.

One or more of the opto switches for the targets is not working. Do a switch test on them.

Wow that was quick!!

If there cleaned and waxed.

Yes, remove material from the end of plunger and rechamfer the edge.

So when you put purple super bands on your machine, your cheating and damaging your pin. So he asked a question and I told him how to do it. Its his pin and if he wants to change it, so be it.

Yes this will work, but which one? More travel= shorter coil stop. Somewhere there is a post showing all the different stop lengths for the different years.

How many people are interested in this? Are you willing to build your own boards? Or does it have to be plug and play?

No because the (20volts) 12volts positive and negative voltage are reversed back and forth on the same pair of wires going to the motor. But there are other ways.

I was thinking the same but with an opto isolator in between for just what if.

This is what I'm going to do, build a board that can be connected in between J-1 and the motor control board A-16120 with a Z connector. The board will get its 12 volt power and ground and the TIP signal to activate all from J-1. I was going to have an opto isolator input and a adjustable delay relay output. This way any lighting voltage can be used such as 6.3 ac GI or 12volt dc. I was thinking of installing Comet matrix cables to the relay input and output so that it would be a plug and play setup for any type of lighting that anyone wanted to use. If there are any other ideas that need to be added let me know.

Just to let everyone know I'm done with the prototype and am ready to order parts and get circuit boards screened.
I have a few questions for the group, how long of a delay on should there be? Right now I have it at 4 seconds. Also on the prototype I used a double throw relay and a second light wire so I can have one set of leds on all the time and when the relay activates the second set of leds turn on and first set turns off. My first set are dim UV bulbs for the mood and the second set turns on brighter white leds for better viewing. This adds to the cost @ 1.50 so what do you think? Lastly does it matter if this turns on with the left or right flipper button?

The lights get triggered from the the paddle moving back and forth when you press the flipper button. The delay is for when you don't move the paddle for a period of time but still need the lights activated.

This is why I thought I would ask. I got you down for two seconds.

I also need to get an idea of how many I need to build so I can order parts. The more kits the better the discount on the parts will be which translates in a lower cost for everyone.

I'll be lucky if there are 25 commitments, but 50 would sure reduce some cost.

Sounds like you want to be a partner, maybe be the money front man.

Everything is going to be SMT to keep the size to a minimum. I also think we will come up with a number that everyone will like. Most likely 3 seconds.

Depends on how many people are interested, 18 so far. I will see were its at after the weekend and do some figuring. Some of you are from over seas and I have never dealt with that before so I sure there will have to be an additional shipping charge on top of the normal rates.

Were at 22 people in, I was hoping for 25. Maybe I will order enough for 25 anyway and hope they sell so I don't have to eat hamburger helper for the next 6 months.

Right now its a bread board with with some chips and caps and some resistors and a mess of wires sitting on the bottom of my cabinet. Nothing really worth shooting video of. But here's how it will work. There will three Comet matrix wires coming off of one side of the relay. One of these wires is for power input for the leds that you will supply for the battlefield. If you use 6.3 volt leds then you would hook this power wire to a GI socket. If you use 12 volt leds then this power wire need to be connected to a 12 volt power source. The other 2 matrix wires are for the leds bulbs that you are going to use. One of these wires will be on any time the GI is on to add some extra brightness to the battlefield but does not have to be used if you chose not to. The last matrix wire will be activated for 3 seconds each time the battlefield paddle moves to the left. When this activates the other wire that's on with the GI will turn off. There is one more wire coming off the other side of the relay and this is for connecting this mod to the motor control board. It will have a Z connector and IDC connector for a plug and play hook up.

Well I checked a bunch of suppliers for the best part prices and lowest shipping cost. The battlefield lighting mod (leds not included) is going to run $48.00 + $4.00 US for shipping in the lower 48 states. Let me know (PM me) if your still interested as I will start ordering parts on Monday.

No, videos are very time consuming to post. Since I will be making a video of the install and operation, I was waiting for the actual parts to make an assembled unit for the video. That way you will see what your getting.

I will order parts on Monday, I'm not sure how long the pc boards will take to manufacture. I hope to ship the first ones in four weeks. Just remember this is not my job, just a hobby for me. I don't want two jobs either.

(zoom)

Insulator - terminal strip

#01-12299

.03 inch thick fish paper insulator for terminal strips.

Reference:

•01-12299

(zoom)

THE SHADOW (Bally) guard, coil

#01-13590

Bally THE SHADOW pinball machine coil guard.

Reference:
•01-13590

These are the parts you need to cover the coil from Marco Spec.

I got the last of the parts I needed to start making the Battle Field Light Mod. I built my board today and it works perfectly. I will build these to order, you can have a 2,3,4 second delay. Also with or without the extra GI lighting cable. I will take some pics of the installation, but its so simple a child can do it. If you have trouble don't call me get a child to help you.

I hate uploading videos, I hate making videos, what a pain in my a#%. Lets see if it works.

Yes it is 2 second delay, I had to give it a try because some of you asked for it. I still think more time is needed like 4 seconds for my taste. You can have what you like as I have resistors for 2, 3 and 4 seconds.

You can order now, I was going to take so installation pics tomorrow to avoid 20 of the same questions. One kit is on its way to Washington already.

This is what comes in the kit.

009 (resized).JPG

This is the motor control board that you are going to connect to. Remove the connector with 4 wires.

010 (resized).JPG

Connect the new relay board in parallel with the motor board. It doesn't matter which connector goes on the motor control board.

011 (resized).JPG

Mount the new board to the left and attach with the zip ties provided to the wiring harness.

012 (resized).JPG

Use the power clips to get power from a GI bulb socket. (Socket with out a diode) The power clips connect to the shorter red/black wire.

013 (resized).JPG

Run the longer light wires along the wiring harness down to the large rectangle hole in the p/f. Use the smaller zip ties to hold the wires to the wiring harness. Do a neat job now.

014 (resized).JPG

The light wire that is black is for when the ball is in the battle field. The other wire is for adding GI lighting to the battle field if you want to. If you don't want this feature, let me know when you order and I will leave it off and drop the price 1.00.

015 (resized).JPG

Yes you can. Have patience with me as I'm old and suffer from stupidity.
I just wanted everyone to know what there getting for $$ first.

Also you will get a six month warranty from the shipping date, just return it unmolested as you got and I will fix it or replace it as needed.

Any Comet pinball Matrix items can be use with this relay board. Remember thou if you connect to the GI then use 6.3 led bulbs and strips. If you want to run 12 volt leds and strips then I think you should install a separate power supply connected to the service outlet. If you need help with how to run 12 volt items then just PM me.

016 (resized).JPG

I tried mounting the light strip to, above, over and over while in front of the metal strip in the back. Always the same results for me, it reflected off the battle field and in my eyes. No bueno!
I am going to try it again but I need to find a light diffuser sheet first. I think this would be the best way to do it, but I just need to find the right stuff to make it work.

Thanks, I designed this for the one purpose only. I'm sure it could be used for many things but small changes would be necessary. If you want something for your pin just let me know and I could see if it would work.

No, but this is why I used the Matrix products. There are so many different things to choose from. We will be able to try stuff quickly and then try something else until we like it. I'm thinking I should have worked a deal with Comet first.

Very interesting idea, I will have to give this some more thought.

Great, I'm a little busy right now. Let everyone know how it works.

I think they are prefect for something like this.

I sent you a PM, thanks.

Your going to ruin my reputation.

1. magnet stops ball.
2. magnet releases ball.
3. ball rolls away from magnet.
4. magnet turns back on and pulls ball back up to the magnet and then turns off allowing the ball to roll past the magnet into the lock.

Your setup is never going to work good because the ball needs to roll on a smooth surface. The magnet core is magnetized and should have a wood separation so the ball doesn't stick to the core. You will need to repair the hole and then fix the surface so its smooth as glass. When yours works its just luck and will never be 100%.

Optos turn on magnet. Wall switch tells the CPU to continue with the sequence of operation, which is all done by timing not the optos. This is why if you have dents in the surface or P/F incline not set properly it will drop the ball.

Most damage is not as extensive as yours so most use a filler, but a hardwood dowel is a good way to repair this. Glue it in with a epoxy adhesive and sand smooth. Paint to match or use the premade sticker.

Why would you not use the correct parts.

I wouldn't, your resale value depends on it.

Was it still attached by the hinge and just fell back into place hard or did it fall and land on something other than the mounting hardware?

Were the wires connected at that time? Do you what side it landed on?

Is there a pink quick disconnect connector on the switch? If so then cut it off and solder the wire on.

Yes.

Is this still happening with the new switch? Maybe the wire harness is pulling something loose when you lower the p/f.

I would look at the connectors on the cpu. Also a wire can be broken but the insulation still be intact causing an intermittent connection.

Start by checking the leds on the PDB to make sure all are lit. Your first error mess. is saying you have no 12 volts.

Is led 7 lit?

Maybe a cracked header pin on the board.

Did your spot light reflector fall off and work its way into the ball trough? Crazy how crap like that happens.

Some hot glue will help keep them in place in the future. Looks sweet by the way.

Post#3574.

I would braze the ring to the crank.

Looks very nice indeed.

Remove the 2 yellow/blk wires and put them together with the single yellow wire on the same socket.

Look for a broken Yellow/grey wire just before the rings.

http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/2528/Manual_Bally_1994_The_Shadow.pdf
Put a lot of paper in your printer.

Cut the pink quick connector off and solder wire directly to the switch.

Complete the scenes, battle field, khan multiball and shadow multiball and into the saucer.

You don't have to finish the modes, just start them .

Most likely a bad battery holder.

There are divots in your trough or the balls are magnetized.

You need to check the switches for the drop target.

Check out my light mod. Post #3572.

Did you clean and polish the mount and targets? How are the springs?

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/10-433

I used car wax on all the metal and moving parts to make it lighting fast.

Solder wires directly to the led bulb and heat shrink, a dab of hot glue to hold in place and forget about it.

Having a second coil wired in series with the magnet will double the resistance causing for a weak magnet. Since someone wired it in series you will need to remove said coil and rewire the magnet coil back correctly.

No the LM version! Low magnetism.

Glad to hear it's working correctly now. You should post the original pic in the worst hack topic.

For one MILLION dollars..... Mine is for sale now!

For ball search when a ball gets trapped behind the target.

CPU corrosion run down to the switch matrix connectors.

Post a pic of the CPU board so we can see if that is the problem.

Can you take a close up pic of the bottom half of the board just to the right of the batteries with the display panel removed.

That doesn't mean its correct.

Follow this pic and you will always be correct.pasted_image (resized).png

Not that I know, why not trim 1/4 off the bottom for ball clearance.

Since it's broken I will give you 1500.00 dollars for it.

Does it only act up with the glass on?

If the loud snap noise is when the game starts, that's normal. You are also having a reset issue, I would follow the steps in Pinwiki on this problem.

Loose connector from the move would be my guess.

If it was moved on the roads in my area it would have a split cabinet.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/72#post-3623572

WOW!!!

pasted_image (resized).png

This is the nut that the play field slides on. It screws onto the carriage bolt that is going thru the side of the cabinet.

I don't think this speaker has the same impedance as the original speaker. This can cause the power amp to blow on the sound board from excessive current draw.

Yes if you can get a pic of the speaker label.

We have always called these types of fasteners female sex bolts.

McMaster Carr.

I'm stuck at work till midnight. I can remove one later and get you some measurements.

These have a security torks bit holding then together. I will have to find my set in the garage later today to remove them and measure.

https://www.mcmaster.com/96754A105

Battle field kicker.

Go back to post #3357 and you will see what RCA1 is talking about.

I can still make these if you like one. PM me if you do.

You can also slightly bend the bracket that the flipper paw rest against to have the bat rest against the side more. This won't affect the up travel of the flipper.