(Topic ID: 46571)

The Shadow Club


By marsgnu

6 years ago



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  • 6,790 posts
  • 563 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 58 seconds ago by woody76
  • Topic is favorited by 194 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

3 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #73 Insert LED bulbs and colors Posted by MnHotRod (6 years ago)

Post #4322 Alternate Shadow Translite and Speaker Panel Posted by Aurich (2 years ago)

Post #4328 Shadow Manual Rubber Ring Chart link Posted by vireland (2 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#2006 4 years ago
Quoted from rcbrown316:

Look at my Avatar and repeat after me "must not buy..." lol.

You know you want it!

1 month later
#2178 4 years ago
Quoted from tachi:

Do I have lights out all over the place?

Maybe, or you may have other issues. Read the manual and use test functions. You can have the machine turn all the lamps on at once. Then you can look for burn bulbs.

2 weeks later
#2246 4 years ago
Quoted from freddy:

GO for it its easy!

Easy for you!! Not for me.

1 week later
#2332 4 years ago

Cut jumpers on CPU board W15,W16,W17,W18. Then game defalts to english.

1 month later
#2453 4 years ago

Remove the burrs from the shaft with a file, then lube it. It will come out then.

1 week later
#2482 4 years ago
Quoted from arkuz:

That just screws up the motor's calibration at the start of a game. Might there be a way to do this without a software patch?

I think you would need the optos flip from left to right along with reversing the motor leads.

2 months later
#2628 3 years ago
Quoted from d0n:

A video of the spotlite mod

Is this an LED? I didn't think an LED would dim unless there is a OCD board.

#2634 3 years ago
Quoted from PinballNewb:

Is it normal that the back targets on the battlefield don't always drop each time they are hit

No, its gummed up and needs to be cleaned.

#2646 3 years ago
Quoted from d0n:

My battlefield targets are acting up too

One or more of the opto switches for the targets is not working. Do a switch test on them.

#2648 3 years ago

Wow that was quick!!

#2653 3 years ago
Quoted from d0n:

I think they go down and back up so fast that it seems they dont go down at all.

If there cleaned and waxed.

1 week later
#2663 3 years ago
Quoted from fosaisu:

Is there a way to increase the overall range of motion of the upper flipper, so that it will rest flush yet extend sufficiently to feed the Kahn hole when it's help up

Yes, remove material from the end of plunger and rechamfer the edge.

#2670 3 years ago
Quoted from someoneelse:

Now someone is even suggesting to physically alter/damage the machine

So when you put purple super bands on your machine, your cheating and damaging your pin. So he asked a question and I told him how to do it. Its his pin and if he wants to change it, so be it.

#2708 3 years ago
Quoted from fosaisu:

how about replacing the coil stop with one of a different length?

Yes this will work, but which one? More travel= shorter coil stop. Somewhere there is a post showing all the different stop lengths for the different years.

7 months later
#3375 3 years ago
Quoted from RTS:

Your lit battlefield is nice, but when is someone gonna figure out how to only light the upper playfield when it is active?

A mod like that would probably sell to almost everyone who owns a Shadow.

How many people are interested in this? Are you willing to build your own boards? Or does it have to be plug and play?

#3378 3 years ago
Quoted from lpeters82:

Do you happen to know if this would work?

Quoted from lpeters82:

I don't really know much about electronics but when the battlefield motor is activated could you tap into the 20v, run it through a 7805 resistor, and have that power a 5v lamp?

No because the (20volts) 12volts positive and negative voltage are reversed back and forth on the same pair of wires going to the motor. But there are other ways.

#3383 3 years ago
Quoted from zaza:

What about when the signal is taken for the motordrive, in this example 'motor-right', let that activate a timer for about 3 sec. ?!

I was thinking the same but with an opto isolator in between for just what if.

#3388 3 years ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

I haven't spent much time looking into a solution, so curious what you have in mind!

This is what I'm going to do, build a board that can be connected in between J-1 and the motor control board A-16120 with a Z connector. The board will get its 12 volt power and ground and the TIP signal to activate all from J-1. I was going to have an opto isolator input and a adjustable delay relay output. This way any lighting voltage can be used such as 6.3 ac GI or 12volt dc. I was thinking of installing Comet matrix cables to the relay input and output so that it would be a plug and play setup for any type of lighting that anyone wanted to use. If there are any other ideas that need to be added let me know.

1 month later
#3472 3 years ago
Quoted from RTS:

Your lit battlefield is nice, but when is someone gonna figure out how to only light the upper playfield when it is active?

A mod like that would probably sell to almost everyone who owns a Shadow

Just to let everyone know I'm done with the prototype and am ready to order parts and get circuit boards screened.
I have a few questions for the group, how long of a delay on should there be? Right now I have it at 4 seconds. Also on the prototype I used a double throw relay and a second light wire so I can have one set of leds on all the time and when the relay activates the second set of leds turn on and first set turns off. My first set are dim UV bulbs for the mood and the second set turns on brighter white leds for better viewing. This adds to the cost @ 1.50 so what do you think? Lastly does it matter if this turns on with the left or right flipper button?

#3474 3 years ago
Quoted from Cheeks:

Could the VUK be the trigger to turn on the lights instead of a flipper?

The lights get triggered from the the paddle moving back and forth when you press the flipper button. The delay is for when you don't move the paddle for a period of time but still need the lights activated.

#3476 3 years ago
Quoted from Cheeks:

Four seconds might be a little long on the delay

This is why I thought I would ask. I got you down for two seconds.

#3477 3 years ago

I also need to get an idea of how many I need to build so I can order parts. The more kits the better the discount on the parts will be which translates in a lower cost for everyone.

#3487 3 years ago
Quoted from TimeBandit:

I find the price break on DigiKey at 50 lots

I'll be lucky if there are 25 commitments, but 50 would sure reduce some cost.

Quoted from TimeBandit:And if you don't, I will.

Sounds like you want to be a partner, maybe be the money front man.

#3488 3 years ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

Why not incorporate a small pot instead of a fixed resister

Everything is going to be SMT to keep the size to a minimum. I also think we will come up with a number that everyone will like. Most likely 3 seconds.

#3503 3 years ago
Quoted from PunkPin:

what is the target price range for the completed mod?

Depends on how many people are interested, 18 so far. I will see were its at after the weekend and do some figuring. Some of you are from over seas and I have never dealt with that before so I sure there will have to be an additional shipping charge on top of the normal rates.

#3513 3 years ago

Were at 22 people in, I was hoping for 25. Maybe I will order enough for 25 anyway and hope they sell so I don't have to eat hamburger helper for the next 6 months.

#3520 3 years ago
Quoted from Bwilson:

Just curious what it looks like and how it functions. Thanks!

Right now its a bread board with with some chips and caps and some resistors and a mess of wires sitting on the bottom of my cabinet. Nothing really worth shooting video of. But here's how it will work. There will three Comet matrix wires coming off of one side of the relay. One of these wires is for power input for the leds that you will supply for the battlefield. If you use 6.3 volt leds then you would hook this power wire to a GI socket. If you use 12 volt leds then this power wire need to be connected to a 12 volt power source. The other 2 matrix wires are for the leds bulbs that you are going to use. One of these wires will be on any time the GI is on to add some extra brightness to the battlefield but does not have to be used if you chose not to. The last matrix wire will be activated for 3 seconds each time the battlefield paddle moves to the left. When this activates the other wire that's on with the GI will turn off. There is one more wire coming off the other side of the relay and this is for connecting this mod to the motor control board. It will have a Z connector and IDC connector for a plug and play hook up.

#3538 3 years ago

Well I checked a bunch of suppliers for the best part prices and lowest shipping cost. The battlefield lighting mod (leds not included) is going to run $48.00 + $4.00 US for shipping in the lower 48 states. Let me know (PM me) if your still interested as I will start ordering parts on Monday.

#3540 3 years ago
Quoted from RTS:

Do you have video of a working prototype?

No, videos are very time consuming to post. Since I will be making a video of the install and operation, I was waiting for the actual parts to make an assembled unit for the video. That way you will see what your getting.

#3542 3 years ago
Quoted from Cheeks:

What are you hoping is the timeframe for having these available to sell?

I will order parts on Monday, I'm not sure how long the pc boards will take to manufacture. I hope to ship the first ones in four weeks. Just remember this is not my job, just a hobby for me. I don't want two jobs either.

#3551 3 years ago

(zoom)

Insulator - terminal strip

#01-12299

.03 inch thick fish paper insulator for terminal strips.

Reference:

•01-12299

(zoom)

THE SHADOW (Bally) guard, coil

#01-13590

Bally THE SHADOW pinball machine coil guard.

Reference:
•01-13590

These are the parts you need to cover the coil from Marco Spec.

2 weeks later
#3572 3 years ago

I got the last of the parts I needed to start making the Battle Field Light Mod. I built my board today and it works perfectly. I will build these to order, you can have a 2,3,4 second delay. Also with or without the extra GI lighting cable. I will take some pics of the installation, but its so simple a child can do it. If you have trouble don't call me get a child to help you.

16
#3574 3 years ago

I hate uploading videos, I hate making videos, what a pain in my a#%. Lets see if it works.

#3579 3 years ago

Yes it is 2 second delay, I had to give it a try because some of you asked for it. I still think more time is needed like 4 seconds for my taste. You can have what you like as I have resistors for 2, 3 and 4 seconds.

#3583 2 years ago
Quoted from RTS:

It works. So how/when can we order?

You can order now, I was going to take so installation pics tomorrow to avoid 20 of the same questions. One kit is on its way to Washington already.

#3584 2 years ago

This is what comes in the kit.

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#3585 2 years ago

This is the motor control board that you are going to connect to. Remove the connector with 4 wires.

010 (resized).JPG

#3586 2 years ago

Connect the new relay board in parallel with the motor board. It doesn't matter which connector goes on the motor control board.

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#3587 2 years ago

Mount the new board to the left and attach with the zip ties provided to the wiring harness.

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#3588 2 years ago

Use the power clips to get power from a GI bulb socket. (Socket with out a diode) The power clips connect to the shorter red/black wire.

013 (resized).JPG

#3589 2 years ago

Run the longer light wires along the wiring harness down to the large rectangle hole in the p/f. Use the smaller zip ties to hold the wires to the wiring harness. Do a neat job now.

014 (resized).JPG

#3591 2 years ago

The light wire that is black is for when the ball is in the battle field. The other wire is for adding GI lighting to the battle field if you want to. If you don't want this feature, let me know when you order and I will leave it off and drop the price 1.00.

015 (resized).JPG

#3592 2 years ago
Quoted from cavalier88z24:

can we order one through you now? i sent u a request earlier last month

Yes you can. Have patience with me as I'm old and suffer from stupidity.
I just wanted everyone to know what there getting for $$ first.

#3593 2 years ago

Also you will get a six month warranty from the shipping date, just return it unmolested as you got and I will fix it or replace it as needed.

#3594 2 years ago

Any Comet pinball Matrix items can be use with this relay board. Remember thou if you connect to the GI then use 6.3 led bulbs and strips. If you want to run 12 volt leds and strips then I think you should install a separate power supply connected to the service outlet. If you need help with how to run 12 volt items then just PM me.

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#3599 2 years ago
Quoted from ryandimx:

Where did you mount the light strip?

I tried mounting the light strip to, above, over and over while in front of the metal strip in the back. Always the same results for me, it reflected off the battle field and in my eyes. No bueno!
I am going to try it again but I need to find a light diffuser sheet first. I think this would be the best way to do it, but I just need to find the right stuff to make it work.

#3601 2 years ago
Quoted from someoneelse:

Great mod, very cool!
Have you though about adding an adjustable pot so it is possible to set the time for different pinball uses? I'm thinking this could also work well with e.g. lighting up the Army of the Dead on LotR.

Thanks, I designed this for the one purpose only. I'm sure it could be used for many things but small changes would be necessary. If you want something for your pin just let me know and I could see if it would work.

#3603 2 years ago
Quoted from lpeters82:

Have you tried the dimmer switch from Comet?

No, but this is why I used the Matrix products. There are so many different things to choose from. We will be able to try stuff quickly and then try something else until we like it. I'm thinking I should have worked a deal with Comet first.

#3604 2 years ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

Grumpy,
Would it be cheaper, easier, mostly cheaper to make a version that has no delay (and is 6volt only)? The reason I ask is that I was thinking about something very similar for the eject holes. Basically, the are lit by one led (color 1) normally via the GI and when the arrow in front of the eject is lit the hole switches to use by another led (color 2).
Just spit balling a color changing eject light mod.

Very interesting idea, I will have to give this some more thought.

#3606 2 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

I'll investigate.

Great, I'm a little busy right now. Let everyone know how it works.

#3608 2 years ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

Thanks for using my Matrix products!

I think they are prefect for something like this.

Quoted from OLDPINGUY:Lmk best way to order....pm???

I sent you a PM, thanks.

1 week later
#3671 2 years ago
Quoted from RCA1:

What a nice guy, he doesn't seem Grumpy at all!

Your going to ruin my reputation.

3 weeks later
#3720 2 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

Can someone explain the the lock process...

1. magnet stops ball.
2. magnet releases ball.
3. ball rolls away from magnet.
4. magnet turns back on and pulls ball back up to the magnet and then turns off allowing the ball to roll past the magnet into the lock.

Your setup is never going to work good because the ball needs to roll on a smooth surface. The magnet core is magnetized and should have a wood separation so the ball doesn't stick to the core. You will need to repair the hole and then fix the surface so its smooth as glass. When yours works its just luck and will never be 100%.

#3723 2 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

you believe that the issue isn't the wall switch or the optos

Optos turn on magnet. Wall switch tells the CPU to continue with the sequence of operation, which is all done by timing not the optos. This is why if you have dents in the surface or P/F incline not set properly it will drop the ball.

#3729 2 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

Has anyone considered using a wood dowel instead of something like JB Qwikweld?

Most damage is not as extensive as yours so most use a filler, but a hardwood dowel is a good way to repair this. Glue it in with a epoxy adhesive and sand smooth. Paint to match or use the premade sticker.

Quoted from per3per3:Would it be possible to use a stern magnet? (i.e. one designed to sit flush)

Why would you not use the correct parts.

#3731 2 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

I meant if I didn't choose to repair it correctly

I wouldn't, your resale value depends on it.

#3750 2 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

At one point the whole battlefield assy fell into the back box.

Was it still attached by the hinge and just fell back into place hard or did it fall and land on something other than the mounting hardware?

#3753 2 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

It fell all the way to bottom of cab. I had it diconnected from hinges


Were the wires connected at that time? Do you what side it landed on?

#3756 2 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

I replaced the switch earlier tonight and same damn thing????

Is there a pink quick disconnect connector on the switch? If so then cut it off and solder the wire on.

Quoted from per3per3:should the flipper button press also activate the flippers?

Yes.

#3764 2 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

I then flipped the playfield up and the switch registers perfectly in that position

Is this still happening with the new switch? Maybe the wire harness is pulling something loose when you lower the p/f.

#3766 2 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

new solder joints are solid on the new switch

I would look at the connectors on the cpu. Also a wire can be broken but the insulation still be intact causing an intermittent connection.

1 week later
#3775 2 years ago
Quoted from ryandimx:

Now I'm getting a bunch of error messages.

Start by checking the leds on the PDB to make sure all are lit. Your first error mess. is saying you have no 12 volts.

#3781 2 years ago

Is led 7 lit?

1 week later
#3801 2 years ago
Quoted from ryandimx:

when I plugged them back in everything fired right up. Not sure why.

Maybe a cracked header pin on the board.

#3817 2 years ago

Did your spot light reflector fall off and work its way into the ball trough? Crazy how crap like that happens.

#3820 2 years ago

Some hot glue will help keep them in place in the future. Looks sweet by the way.

#3822 2 years ago
Quoted from Cursed:

Is there a video of the 'grumpy' mod? There does not seem to be a thread for it and I am not 100% sure on what it does?
I originally thought it was going to kill all the lighting on the game except for the battlefield when it is in use but I don't think that's right?
Appreciate any help. Cheers.

Post#3574.

#3837 2 years ago
Quoted from tiesmasc:

1) Crank Arm Assembly Set Screw Ring Loose - How to Fix?

I would braze the ring to the crank.

1 month later
#3926 2 years ago
Quoted from robotron:

wit extra gi led strip under upper playfield. i put 2 lights on the upper playfield wit blue leds.

Looks very nice indeed.

#3929 2 years ago

Remove the 2 yellow/blk wires and put them together with the single yellow wire on the same socket.

#3932 2 years ago
Quoted from Flippermatt:

I have a problem.... The four ring lamps died all of the sudden.

Look for a broken Yellow/grey wire just before the rings.

Quoted from Flippermatt:I do not have a manual

http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/2528/Manual_Bally_1994_The_Shadow.pdf
Put a lot of paper in your printer.

#3939 2 years ago
Quoted from practicalsteve:

It doesn't register 100% of the time. I have replaced the switch itself, adjusted numerous times.

Cut the pink quick connector off and solder wire directly to the switch.

1 week later
#3994 2 years ago

Complete the scenes, battle field, khan multiball and shadow multiball and into the saucer.

#3998 2 years ago

You don't have to finish the modes, just start them .

2 months later
#4185 2 years ago
Quoted from Goalie:

all the settings get switched to Factory

Most likely a bad battery holder.

Quoted from Goalie:

Then it says pinball missing, I shake the machine, or I poke at the trough from under the PF and then it finds the ball (This could just be a separate issue)

There are divots in your trough or the balls are magnetized.

Quoted from Goalie:

Then when I play the game the Sanctum drop target goes down but never comes back up.

You need to check the switches for the drop target.

2 months later
#4334 2 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

thanks will def look into it.

Check out my light mod. Post #3572.

1 month later
#4410 2 years ago
Quoted from Robertstone0407:

Anyone have the issue where there drop targets on their upper playfield go down and they don't keep trying stay up like normal?

Did you clean and polish the mount and targets? How are the springs?

#4412 2 years ago
Quoted from Robertstone0407:

It looks like one of the springs is weak. I cleaned and when i push on one it stays up. Where can i find the springs

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/10-433

I used car wax on all the metal and moving parts to make it lighting fast.

2 months later
#4513 1 year ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

I'd like to convert it back to the small thin bulbs.

Solder wires directly to the led bulb and heat shrink, a dab of hot glue to hold in place and forget about it.

2 weeks later
#4551 1 year ago
Quoted from Parzival:

So what would typically cause a weak throw back action?

Having a second coil wired in series with the magnet will double the resistance causing for a weak magnet. Since someone wired it in series you will need to remove said coil and rewire the magnet coil back correctly.

#4555 1 year ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

The coil is part of the super LE version of the Shadow.

No the LM version! Low magnetism.

#4557 1 year ago
Quoted from Parzival:

Magnet has been successfully rewired and the "throw back" is strong now. Thanks to all the helped identify this issue. Coil certainly seemed strange, but assumed it was correct until helpful comments in this thread.

Glad to hear it's working correctly now. You should post the original pic in the worst hack topic.

#4561 1 year ago

For one MILLION dollars..... Mine is for sale now!

4 months later
#4855 1 year ago
Quoted from Nds777:

What circumstance would make that happen?

For ball search when a ball gets trapped behind the target.

2 months later
#4992 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

Has anyone experienced some of the buttons not working on start up? The credit button doesn’t work (game won’t start), no sound from gun trigger. After a few minutes it starts up fine. Any suggestions? Thanks.

CPU corrosion run down to the switch matrix connectors.

#4994 1 year ago

Post a pic of the CPU board so we can see if that is the problem.

1 week later
#5020 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

Thanks for the assistance!

Can you take a close up pic of the bottom half of the board just to the right of the batteries with the display panel removed.

#5047 1 year ago
Quoted from Scoot:

I put the diode exactly in the same position.

That doesn't mean its correct.

#5051 1 year ago
Quoted from Scoot:

there is no guarantee that placing the wires and diode in the same spot will be correct?

Follow this pic and you will always be correct.pasted_image (resized).png

2 months later
#5259 1 year ago
Quoted from RockBass14:

Are there lower profile spotlight shades out there?

Not that I know, why not trim 1/4 off the bottom for ball clearance.

#5305 1 year ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

Yes, says mini playfield is fine. I think they mini pf test only checks movement of armeture. All good there. Checked flipper coil diodes and for the life of me can't get that opto switch to trigger in test mode unless broken. I notice this board under playfield triggers the switch if I unplug one of the three connectors but if all plugged in and jiggling wires, nothing, which is good. No loose connections. I'm at a serious loss here and sort of bummed.
I literally changed flipper opto board out of desperation. In addition I removed the playfield optos and connected with a straw so nothing could break beam, flippers still fire plunger randomly. Checked all connections in back box. Put game in single switch test in switch 36 so it will beep if triggered. Fucked around with everything above and below playfield and in back box to try to trigger switch. Nothing. Wtf. Are you sure the plunger shouldn't fire randomly? I'm obsessive about game playing correctly and this drives me nuts. Half tempted to sell game and I just got it. Fuck this Pos. So pissed.[quoted image]

Since it's broken I will give you 1500.00 dollars for it.

Does it only act up with the glass on?

2 months later
#5522 10 months ago

If the loud snap noise is when the game starts, that's normal. You are also having a reset issue, I would follow the steps in Pinwiki on this problem.

#5562 10 months ago
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

how about posting a followup of what the damn problem was and how it got resolved?

Loose connector from the move would be my guess.

#5565 10 months ago
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

Was guessing loose connector also or a cracked solder joint from a bumpy ride home.

If it was moved on the roads in my area it would have a split cabinet.

1 week later
#5604 10 months ago
Quoted from okgrak:

Has anyone been able to illuminate the battlefield only when active? Right now I have a led strip tied to GI, but thinking it would be cool to only have it illuminate when the ball is up there.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/72#post-3623572

#5632 10 months ago

WOW!!!

pasted_image (resized).png
3 months later
#6161 6 months ago
Quoted from shiffdog:

anyone know where it goes?

This is the nut that the play field slides on. It screws onto the carriage bolt that is going thru the side of the cabinet.

#6176 6 months ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

Thanks, it is a Fiipper Fidelity speaker

I don't think this speaker has the same impedance as the original speaker. This can cause the power amp to blow on the sound board from excessive current draw.

#6181 6 months ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

But I think this is a Flipper Fidelity speaker that was made for the original soundboard (not the Pinsound version). I can take a photo if that is helpful. Thanks as usual.

Yes if you can get a pic of the speaker label.

2 months later
#6354 4 months ago
Quoted from Jimmyhonda:

Does anybody know where I can find part 02-5041-15G Fastener butthead?

We have always called these types of fasteners female sex bolts.

#6357 4 months ago
Quoted from brandsilence:

I have been looking too. When i bought my shadow it only had a single set. I've tried a lot of different possible replacements but not found anything right. Would be very interested in a good source!

McMaster Carr.

#6361 4 months ago
Quoted from Jimmyhonda:

Any idea what size it is? There seems to be a ton of options. Thank you!!!

I'm stuck at work till midnight. I can remove one later and get you some measurements.

#6367 4 months ago
Quoted from Jimmyhonda:

Any idea what size it is?

These have a security torks bit holding then together. I will have to find my set in the garage later today to remove them and measure.

#6376 4 months ago
Quoted from Jimmyhonda:

Any idea what size it is? There seems to be a ton of options. Thank you!!!

https://www.mcmaster.com/96754A105

2 weeks later
#6391 3 months ago
Quoted from MG7322:

Anyone have a suggestion as to where this goes?

Battle field kicker.

1 month later
#6584 57 days ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Who sells the what now? Do you have a link?

Go back to post #3357 and you will see what rca1 is talking about.

#6589 56 days ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Oh ya, nice. Id be in.

Quoted from tiltmonster:

Genius, very nice mod... interested.

I can still make these if you like one. PM me if you do.

1 week later
#6645 44 days ago
Quoted from gjm7777:

Here is my flipper orientation.

You can also slightly bend the bracket that the flipper paw rest against to have the bat rest against the side more. This won't affect the up travel of the flipper.

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