(Topic ID: 46571)

The Shadow Club

By marsgnu

6 years ago

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  • 562 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 14 hours ago by woody76
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Topic index (key posts)

2 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #4322 Alternate Shadow Translite and Speaker Panel Posted by Aurich (2 years ago)

Post #4328 Shadow Manual Rubber Ring Chart link Posted by vireland (2 years ago)

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#515 6 years ago
Quoted from MagicMako:

Very nice. Whered u get that green dmd filter?

He said it's a colordmd set to green. Don't know much about them but I'd imagine it's this: http://shop.colordmd.com/colordmd-replacement-display-sigma/

3 weeks later
#563 6 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

What will happen to the 50 original translites now floating around?

You should start a collection! Aurich would know of course but it's well more than 50 by now, right?

#576 6 years ago
Quoted from Aurich:

Mike Chestnut chromed shooter installed.

Now you just need to make those pearlescent grips (and then tell the rest of us how you did it)!

1 week later
#608 6 years ago

I'm in! Thanks to dannunz for selling me his very nice game. I'm relieved to report that it made the trip from Mass to Colorado by STI without serious incident. Snuck a few games in the past few evenings and I'm loving it, seems like a perfect first machine for me. Now I just need to get Aurich's translite installed.


#612 6 years ago
Quoted from Tyson1868:

Great looking game!
Where is the love for "ole sausage fingers"? Seems like everyone is tradin up.

Although to be fair, shouldn't "sausage fingers" be reserved for the Nedry playfield art from Jurassic Park? Now that is truly objectionable (and not so easy to swap out)!

1 week later
#625 6 years ago

Does anyone have a decent screen-cap of one of the Mongol Warriors from the film? Thinking about painting mine (inspired by a post a few pages back where they were nicely touched up) and would love to match the costumes from the movie.

#626 6 years ago

And another unrelated question: has anyone installed an LED OCD board in their Shadow and if so, any thoughts on going that route vs. using higher end non-ghosting LEDs?

#629 6 years ago

I'm considering an LED conversion on my Shadow, and the manual lists multiple bulbs (both #906 and #89 flasher bulbs) for the following flashers:
21. Right Side Flasher
22. Right Ramp Flasher
23. Left Ramp Flasher

Do both bulbs go under the domes located in those three areas? Or does just the #906 go inside the dome (I'm assuming the #906s are under the dome any because the three flashers back by the Sanctum are all identified as having only a #906), with the #89 located somewhere else in the vicinity but presumably triggered at the same time as the dome flasher?

I ask because I'm trying to decide what if anything I want to do in terms of replacing flashers with LEDs, and determine for each flasher bulb whether to go with a tower design (which I assume would work well under a dome) or the more traditional flat one-direction LED flashers (which I assume would work better under plastics or in other locations other than a dome). Any help or advice much appreciated!

#631 6 years ago

Thanks, one more LED question, would this LED bulb work for the Shadow Rings? (I'm guessing not since presumably everyone would be using them then, but it looks like the right size anyway):

3 weeks later
#675 5 years ago
Quoted from fosaisu:

Does anyone have a decent screen-cap of one of the Mongol Warriors from the film? Thinking about painting mine (inspired by a post a few pages back where they were nicely touched up) and would love to match the costumes from the movie.

I'm still thinking about having my Mongol Warriors painted with better detail, so I took a few pictures with my iPhone while watching the new Blu-ray of The Shadow this evening (hadn't seen it since the drive-in in '94, it was fun and cheesy as I remembered and definitely worth watching just to hear the call-outs from the game). Not as nice as you'd get doing screen captures if you've got the time and software, but this seemed good enough for my purposes (getting a general sense of the color scheme and pattern of the Mongol costumes in the movie).

Anyway, in case anyone else is interested, here's a link to a few of my pictures of the Mongol Warriors from the film: https://plus.google.com/photos/107054748656177255713/albums/5985719877865948481?authkey=CO_au6Ljt5zYxAE

1 month later
#762 5 years ago

Probably a silly question but does anyone know if it's possible to remove the Mongol figurines without taking apart the left ramp? From a quick glance at the near-left Mongol I thought I'd be able to just pop the figurines out quickly (planning to have them repainted) but as I look closer I didn't see a way to access the nuts on the underside of the plastics without removing the ramp. But I'm hoping I've missed something and someone can point me in an easier direction. Thanks!

#789 5 years ago

Sorry to bump my own question, but thought it might have gone unnoticed with all the recent activity. Anyone who has removed (or installed) Mongol warriors have any thoughts on this?

Quoted from fosaisu:

Probably a silly question but does anyone know if it's possible to remove the Mongol figurines without taking apart the left ramp? From a quick glance at the near-left Mongol I thought I'd be able to just pop the figurines out quickly (planning to have them repainted) but as I look closer I didn't see a way to access the nuts on the underside of the plastics without removing the ramp. But I'm hoping I've missed something and someone can point me in an easier direction. Thanks!

#794 5 years ago

For anyone that's done LEDs for the GI, I got 36 of the GI bulbs swapped without too much trouble by unscrewing each fixture from under the playfield. But there's one GI fixture burried under the right ramp that seems virtually inaccessible from under the playfield (at least with the standard harbor freight socket wrench or the various pliers I've got in my toolbox). Is there a secret to getting at that, maybe an alternate tool people have successfully used, or do I have to go at it from the top, removing the large brick plastic under the right ramp (which would appear to require removing the right Phurba and at least part of the ramp as well)? Thanks in advance for any suggestions!

#796 5 years ago
Quoted from Aurich:

You mean the one remaining incandescent bulb in my game? That one?

Yes, as I was cursing at it last night I thought I remembered reading a post of yours about the one bulb you weren't able to reach. Sorry to hear that I found it too!

#798 5 years ago
Quoted from fosaisu:

For anyone that's done LEDs for the GI, I got 36 of the GI bulbs swapped without too much trouble by unscrewing each fixture from under the playfield. But there's one GI fixture burried under the right ramp that seems virtually inaccessible from under the playfield (at least with the standard harbor freight socket wrench or the various pliers I've got in my toolbox). Is there a secret to getting at that, maybe an alternate tool people have successfully used, or do I have to go at it from the top, removing the large brick plastic under the right ramp (which would appear to require removing the right Phurba and at least part of the ramp as well)? Thanks in advance for any suggestions!

To answer my own question, the GI bulb under the right ramp is replaceable using this "1/4 inch Drive Universal Joint" angle attachment for your socket wrench, $5 at Home Depot if you don't own one already:
Universal Joint.jpg

This attachment was also handy in replacing the right ramp flasher (accessible but a real PITA to get out with a standard socket wrench).

It was still a bit of a hassle to get the screw out and then back in again after swapping in the LED, so if you don't already own this or a similar tool I would only recommend doing this if you're anal enough about this kind of thing that it's always going to bother you a little bit that you only converted 97% of your GI to LEDs. I'm that guy, so I'm glad I made found a suitable tool for the job and got that last LED installed.

#803 5 years ago
Quoted from RonB:

I don't believe you can safely remove them without taking off the ramp, unless you want to bend the plastics up far enough to get an open-end wrench under there. Of course there's that chance the plastic could break, but they are fairly durable.
You only have to loosen the screws a little to slide the Mongol out, but the one on the left side of the ramp would be a real pita, if at all possible.

Thanks for the advice! I was able to remove the Mongol Warrior to the left of the left ramp by doing as you said and prying the plastic up a bit to get access to the nuts (I first removed several screws holding the left ramp in place to create a bit more room to lift the plastic). Doesn't seem to have done any harm to the plastic (though as you say, a bit of a PITA). The one on the right of the ramp had nuts I could reach with needle nose pliers without removing anything. The one on the right of the playfield I had to remove two of the Mongol targets to get access to the nuts. Overall, took some time and cursing but I got them off without doing any damage to the game or the figurines. Now to get them painted, and then reinstalled ...

3 weeks later
#836 5 years ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

New Member too...Finally...14 years!!! Last game on my list!
Excited to take all the great ideas and mix them up on mine....
Has anyone done Green Rails?

Congrats! Now here's hoping this inspires you to design LEDs for the Shadow rings ...

2 weeks later
#894 5 years ago
Quoted from o-din:

Steep! I don't have a meter. It also doesn't help that one of the guys before me installed white rubbers. The ball takes mean bounces to the outlanes. If you decide to steepen it up, you may want to close the outlanes a bit to make it even playable. But I like it fast! And fast it is.

Is your next move to install lightning flippers? I wouldn't have thought The Shadow was a game that needed toughening up!

#902 5 years ago
Quoted from o-din:

I've got a set of two inchers for my EMs. Thanks for the tip!

Ingenious! That'd keep my ball times down to 30 seconds or so, allowing me to cram in triple the amount of games in the same playtime.

Next step in the evolution -- upgrade to oversized, overweight balls the same width as the ramps to tighten up those gimmie Phurba shots!

#921 5 years ago
Quoted from Syco54645:

So people who have consistent issues with the battlefield not resetting targets fast enough. This is 100% not how the game should play. Played Shadow on location this weekend and not once did I get the ball behind the battlefield. Mine at home is having that issue though. It seems that the targets drop too slow. I ended up tearing my battlefield apart and degreasing it, replaced springs, etc. It helped one of the targets but the other three are still too slow to play the battlefield. I guess I will replace the washers and stuff. If the drop targets were still available I would replace those as well. So annoying not having even a remote chance of beating the battlefield with one ball...

Let us know what you come up with -- sounds like the majority of the Shadows out there have at least some lag on the battlefield targets so if there's a solution we'd love to hear it!

#929 5 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

This is the exact same with my game. The targets almost always reset fast enough, but every once in a great while the ball moves so fast that it beats the target. Like you, I have found hitting the ball on the edge of the kicker to be the best strategy, albeit not nearly as much fun.

Same here. Just figured that was part of the game but it sounds like some machines never have this happen at all?

2 months later
#998 5 years ago

A few months back I found someone on a Warhammer board to paint my Mongol Warriors to add detail and better match the costumes from the film (I'm not a miniatures guy but that seemed like a good place to find a painter for this project). Last night I finally got them installed and I'm very pleased with the outcome, the painter did excellent work at a very reasonable price. [EDIT: And appologies for the crap photos, turns out my lighting scheme leaves something to be desired]


#1001 5 years ago
Quoted from mof:

That's rad that you sought out an artist there. You should post the artist info here so others can get him/her more business.

Good call. War Paint Miniature Studios (Jason Lawson / bigtat2guy@yahoo.com) was well recommended on the Warhammer forum dakkadakka.com, and he was game to paint pinball bits. I paid $10/figure plus shipping (so total cost of ~ $40 for the entire project), which is less than I would have spent for paints and equipment to do it myself, and with massively superior results. Also significantly cheaper than any painter of comprable quality I found after a fair bit of google research.

Here's a link to his Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/WarPaintMiniatureStudios#!/WarPaintMiniatureStudios/timeline

And here's a link to at least one of the forums where I read about his work (his username there is "J'santai Khan"):

So if you're considering having your Mongol Warriors painted (or any other pinball-related figurines, structures or objects for that matter) I'd 100% recommend getting in touch with Jason.

Post edited by fosaisu: typos

#1002 5 years ago
Quoted from Aurich:

I kind of want to cut off their thick swords and replace them with thinner plastic ones.

A great idea, the swords are oddly thick as designed! Fire it up and post some pics and maybe you'll inspire me to pull the Mongols off and take a second crack at them (just kidding, I think they'll be staying right where they are now that they're prettied up to my satisfaction, but I would love to see what you come up with in the sword dept.)

[EDIT: Sweet, just noticed I got the 1000th post in The Shadow Club!]

1 month later
#1127 5 years ago
Quoted from DMC:

If anyone is interested, I've asked Joe at Laseriffic whether he could design a topper based on the roof light of the 1936 Cord Westchester Sunshine Radio taxi in the movie and above the flippers on the playfield. He's got a lot on but said he will have a think about how he can do it. I'll update this thread as I get feedback from Joe.

Cool concept, I could imagine this looking great if it's done right!

2 weeks later
#1159 5 years ago
Quoted from kvan99:

I think you should approach this as a mod, go a different route all together...make a ring with with a clear insert and put a light changing RGB bulb behind it, so it changes colors or put a flasher behind it. You an get a crystal cut to fit the ring. You can go on Alibaba and find some companies that do small batch orders. I just did a quick search and this was just the first one that came up, $2.70 a stone, but the clear crystals are like .25 cents a piece:

If you've seen the movie, the Shadow's rings are always red. So while the "Technicolor Dream Coat" approach might look interesting, it'd be a significant departure from the theme.

1 week later
#1174 5 years ago
Quoted from Baron-Shadow:

Count me in, i like to join the club.
We are making another alternate translite, but it's a work in Progress because it came out to dark now.
And we need to do a speaker panel to match

Cool design! Keep posting updates (and maybe ask Aurich if he's willing to share his supplier, I have his alt-translite and the print quality is great).

1 month later
#1250 5 years ago
Quoted from Glarrownage:

Ah, I was hoping there was a pre-made decal solution out there with good color matching. With the water slide decal, do you paint over the touch up epoxy or do you try to print it out with the lettering? Does the Little Shop of Games decal match well?

If you don't feel like painting, here's another option that looks better than a mismatched sticker IMO:

#1260 5 years ago
Quoted from Glarrownage:

Does anyone know where to get the city-scape back board decal? I saw one on RonB's Shadow and I think it was mentioned he got it on e-bay but I can't find them anywhere. Anyone have a lead on these?

Very weird, the "Shadow Last Plastic Mod" comes up in a search on eBay, but then the link seems to be broken and just redirects to a "related items" search. Might be worth trying to message the seller pugsotoys5zpt to see if he's still selling them, which you can apparently do via this page: ebay.com link)

#1261 5 years ago
Quoted from Glarrownage:

Does anyone know where to get the city-scape back board decal? I saw one on RonB's Shadow and I think it was mentioned he got it on e-bay but I can't find them anywhere. Anyone have a lead on these?

And you may have considered it already, but here's another nice treatment for that back wall (obviously I'm biased since I went with this option):

1 month later
#1363 5 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

I want this game back....I never understood the rules with the diverter ramps. Seemed like too much work but now I'm up for the challenge

Do it, you won't regret it! The diverters are such a cool feature. I'm terrible at pinball so I rarely kick ass in Vengeance mode, but it's such a rush when you get into a flow and are just nailing those shots and toggling the Phurbas. And prices seem to have stabilized or even declined a bit over the past 6-8 months, so now's probably as good a time as any to pick one up.

1 week later
#1372 4 years ago
Quoted from brandsilence:

Never done LEDs before. Your posts have inspired to put in LEDs for the inserts. Anybody have a shopping list for this that they could share? What type of bulbs are the best. I particularly like the colored LEDs under the game mode inserts that some of you have posted. Any advice is welcome.

Here's my full list. I used "1 SMD 6.3V AC/DC SUPREME BRIGHTNESS 5050 BULB" with FROSTED lenses from Comet Pinball: http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/1smd5050.htm

I use the LED OCD board (http://ledocd.com/) in my Shadow so you'd probably do better going with one of Comet's non-ghosting bulb varieties (http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/1smd5050ng.htm) if you don't plan to install the board.

If you like more of a "cold" look to your games you might swap the "WARM" bulbs below for "NATURAL." The warm bulbs look closer to incandescents and to my eye better match the art deco theme of the pin. They're cheap, so consider buying some of both types and playing around to see which you prefer.

16. MONGO(L) – 44 WARM
22. MON(G)OL – 555 WARM
24. MO(N)GOL – 555 WARM
25. M(O)NGOL – 555 WARM
26. (M)ONGOL – 555 WARM
51. LOCK 2 – 555 GREEN
52. LOCK 3 – 555 GREEN
53. LOCK 1 – 555 GREEN
86. MONG(O)L – 44 WARM

Cointaker button bulb http://shop.cointaker.com/product.sc?productId=732&categoryId=97

Cointaker button bulb http://shop.cointaker.com/product.sc?productId=733&categoryId=97

555 WARM (34)

44 WARM (36)

17. BACKBOX – #906 WARM (2)
18. LEFT SIDE FLASHER – #89 WARM [5 SMD Tower]
18. BACKBOX – #906 WARM
21. RIGHT SIDE FLASHER - #906 RED [5 SMD Tower]
- #906 RED
- #89 RED [5 SMD Tower]
- #906 RED
- #89 WARM [5 SMD Tower]
26. BACKBOX – #906 WARM
27. BACKBOX – #906 WARM
28. BACKBOX – #906 WARM

For flasher bulbs I went mostly with Comet's 8 SMD flashers(http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/8smdflash.htm), except where noted as a 5 SMD tower (http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/5smdflash.htm), which I used on the flashers closer to the player to avoid eye irritation. For the ring domes and the three domes on the back wall I lifted a trick from Aurich and added a bit of cotton from a cotton ball to each dome to diffuse the flashes, works great!

Good luck and happy LEDing!

#1375 4 years ago
Quoted from brandsilence:

You guys are so damn helpful. THANK YOU

Cheers! I found lots of useful posts and advice here when I was LEDing mine last year, so happy to return the favor.

#1377 4 years ago
Quoted from rcbrown316:

i dont use the non-ghosting bulbs. I have not tried them but the look I get from the ones I use is fantastic. Ghosting means you see a small amount of light being emitted still when is supposed to be off. you dont notice it enough to pay the difference in price imo. all lamps that are on totally detracts from that small issue

Yeah I should have clarified that I've never tried non-ghosting bulbs in my Shadow. I went with the LED OCD board for the on/off fade effect and to avoid flicker, with non-ghosting as a side benefit. It might be worth asking around to see if anyone has tried both in a Shadow and can advise whether it's worth the extra $.20/bulb to go with Comet's non-ghosting.

EDIT: But if you ever think you'd want to install an LED OCD board then you should actually avoid non-ghosting bulbs. LED OCD already eliminates ghosting, and apparently the circuitry in the non-ghosting bulbs somewhat limits the fade effects LED OCD can produce.

#1383 4 years ago
Quoted from brandsilence:

I broke down fosaisu's LED list into grand totals for my shopping list and figured i'd share that here. In light of Aurich's comments, i think i'll go for the non-ghosting.

I'm sure you noticed on Comet's website but they sell 25-packs at a slight discount, so take advantage of that for the bulbs you need more of. And I'd recommend looking around his site and picking up a few sample bulbs (e.g. try a few "natural" and "daylight" bulbs) just to test them out. Part of the fun of LED-ing is tweaking it to get it just they way you want!

Oh, and if you ever think you'll want to do spotlights on the battlefield, order two bulbs for that while you're at it! I'm still messing around with mine, but have been relatively happy with the fan-shaped bulbs in warm white (http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/6smdfan.htm).

1 week later
#1416 4 years ago

I'm planning to give Titan Pinball's new silicone rings a try. With that in mind, I took the rubber ring list from the manual and updated to reflect what I see on my game (noted below). If anyone here has re-rubbered their Shadow, did the rubber sizes from the manual (shown below) work out OK for you?:

  • Flipper rings x3 [manual incorrectly calls for 2]
  • Post Sleeves x6
  • 7/16 Inch O.D. rings x2 (manual calls for Part No. 23-6694-1 which it says is a 3/32" ring. Most sites seem to identify 23-6694-1 as a 7/16" ID ring so that's what I'm looking at here)
  • 5/16 Inch I.D. rings x5 (manual calls for 3, I added 2 for outlane posts)
  • 3/4 Inch I.D. rings x2
  • 1 Inch I.D. rings x2
  • 1 1/4 Inch I.D. ring x1
  • 2 1/2 Inch I.D. rings x2
#1425 4 years ago
Quoted from Memphis777:

Getting ready to replace the backbox decals on my Shadow.... If anyone has done this before, please share any tips, tricks, precautions from your experience.

I've never redone decals, but if I were going to I'd read through Bryan Kelly's awesome thread on his restoration process. Lots of good details on cabinet prep and decal installation (along with many other subjects) from a total pro. Here's a link to a few posts where he's talking about removing the old decals, prepping the cabinet, and installing the new decals:




#1444 4 years ago
Quoted from rcbrown316:

I just used one of these...

Where did you find that Farley Claymore figurine?!?

#1445 4 years ago
Quoted from zucot:

Anyone know where I can get a cheap replacement mongol? Lost a sword on one of mine...

Not sure if this qualifies as cheap but PPS and Marco have the individual figurines in stock:

Alternately you could throw up a WTB, I was able to pick one up a bit cheaper that way.

#1446 4 years ago
Quoted from rcbrown316:

get some mirror blades man. Changes the look of the game bigtime. I will try to remember to snap a few pics of mine when I get home and post them.

Have you had any trouble with the mirrors getting scraped up when you raise and lower the playfield? I thought I read somewhere that the Shadow has a pretty tight playfield fit and is tough on mirror blades for that reason.

#1457 4 years ago
Quoted from rcbrown316:

Gonna be selling tit too.

I hate to be pedantic but don't you mean "tit two"?

#1462 4 years ago
Quoted from FLpinball:

here you go
FullSizeRender 2.jpg (Click image to enlarge)FullSizeRender.jpg (Click image to enlarge)

Congrats! I see you kicked the taxi to the curb in favor of the lighted topper. And I'd love to have an IJ to park next to my Shadow!

3 weeks later
#1516 4 years ago
Quoted from Asael:

1. LEDs in the GI? Cold white or warm white or a mix or better no leds?

Purely a matter of preference but I much prefer The Shadow with warm white -- fits the art deco theme of the game. Here's a a post where I laid out my LED scheme for the entire machine. One man's opinion, of course, but might be of some use as you're selecting LEDs:

Quoted from Asael:

2. I will put LEDs in the inserts. But I don't know what to do with the mongol inserts, warm white or yellow?

I went with warm white in mine -- I've read that yellow and orange LEDs tend to be dimmer than other colors of the same style, and the warm white looks great.

Quoted from Asael:

3. Flashers, I realy like the look of the purple flasher caps. But what flashers should I put in there, cold white, blue or purple? All Flasher purple or a mix?

I'd go with purple or blue to best match the caps. I recommend the 5 SMD flashers for bulbs closer to the player since the 8 SMDs can be blindingly bright. Or use Aurich's trick and throw a bit of cotton ball in each flasher cap to diffuse the light. Works great!

Quoted from Asael:

5. Rubbercolor: white, black or transparent? On the flipper fingers I will use purple.

Purely preference but I think the game looks sharp with the original black. Transparent doesn't really fit the retro theme IMO.

Quoted from Asael:

6. Target Decals, they look good but I read that there are problems with the drop targets with them on?

I have the target decals on the Mongol targets and think they look great. Had one pop off a few times but used some rubber cement on it and no problems since. Haven't tried them on the Battlefield drop targets but they evidently send some extra stickers that extend below the playfield so the stickers don't get hung up when the target drops.

EDIT: Here's a series of posts where the battlefield decals are discussed: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/28#post-2241452]

1 month later
#1566 4 years ago
Quoted from BrooklynDrug:

here is the switch I was talking about on ebay..
ebay.com link
This may just work, I will order it and try.

Quoted from Syco54645:

You can get that switch pretty much anywhere for much cheaper.

For instance, here: http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=380

Of course once you add shipping you may not save a ton over the eBay piece, unless you're planning to order other stuff from Pinballlife. But if you can hold out and add it to your next Pinballlife order, that's the way to go!

#1568 4 years ago
Quoted from BrooklynDrug:

Ahh yes! I just may. Thanks for the tip! Are you a Shadow owner???

Yes - and I ordered one of these switches a while back but haven't got round to installing it yet!

#1570 4 years ago
Quoted from BrooklynDrug:

Excellent! Did you order multiple ones to replace every switch?

No, just one for the right side of the left Phurba ramp.

3 weeks later
#1582 4 years ago
Quoted from Glarrownage:

What about that bump in the playfield? I'm guessing I would have to sand it down. That's really my biggest concern, I wish you guys could actually see it in the pics. I can't see anything warped on the play field from underneath. I'm guessing that the heat warped the top layer of ply. At least that's what it looks like. Ive never seen that before so I don't even know if its possible.

I know zip about playfield restoration, but is it possible to take pics that show the bump a little better? Is it visible from the underside of the playfield? That might help you get the best advice from those with the experience to offer it!

2 weeks later
#1592 4 years ago
Quoted from tachi:

Although I don't plan to sell/trade The Shadow I hate to get really upside down on something I thought was an investment and would hold its value. The playfield restore will probably cost around 800.
My biggest questions are is it worth a full playfield restore? And would restoring the playfield greatly improve the gameplay?

A playfield restore shouldn't affect gameplay (assuming that the alternative would be to repair just the sanctum area, either by filling the divot and using the sticker, or filling the divot and repainting that entire area -- that divot is a likely contributor to your sanctum issues) -- it would just make everything look beautiful and the extra clear coat would give more protection from future wear. I agree with Aurich that you should give it a good cleaning before deciding what to do. Do some searches on pinside for cleaning advice as far as products and technique to avoid any risk of damage.

Personally, I love the game enough that if I had the top side broken down already I'd be tempted to have the playfield restored (like you, it's my only pin and isn't going anywhere). But if being "upside down" on the game is going to bother you in the long run, I wouldn't bet that The Shadow, even with a mint restored playfield, will be selling for $4,250 anytime soon.

#1596 4 years ago
Quoted from nicoga3000:

I'm looking at making a trade for my MET for a Shadow, Pinbot, and cash. I'm working on figuring out the value of The Shadow based off of the info I have.
What are some things to look for when figuring things out? There's minor sanctum burn, and it looks like the Mongol and Sword figures (??) are missing in the pics. What other things are worth investigating before assessing the value?

Make sure all four rings are there, very difficult to find replacements.

Replacement Mongol figurines are available (each of the three Mongols holds a sword, but there aren't separate sword figurines).

#1598 4 years ago

There's a player's condition Shadow listed on Mr. Pinball for $2k, local pickup only in Vancouver. If the condition is correctly described this seems like a pretty good deal.

#1600 4 years ago
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:

anybody got any up close pics of the battlefield plastic piece? mine is missing on game and somehow going to try to make one I guess. nobody seems to make these that I can find. need to see how it fits and the overall shape of it.

It sounds like Jean-Luc-Picard had a similar problem (though maybe missing part instead of all of that piece), might be worth dropping him a PM to see how he solved it:

#1603 4 years ago
Quoted from nicoga3000:

I have made the tentative decision to trade my MET Pro for a Shadow and a Pinbot (plus a little cash). The only two things with The Shadow that aren't good? Missing one Dagger and has some Sanctum wear. How easy/hard is it to repair wear on the Sanctum area? I'm no strange to an airbrush, so I'm all for painting and mylaring over it.
Sanctum Wear.JPG

Re: the dagger, what exactly is missing? If it's just the decorative Phurba "topper" for the diverter, those are available:

If the entire diverter assembly is missing, that's a much bigger deal, and you'd probably have to hope to find someone parting out a Shadow.

Here's a thread discussing various Sanctum restoration options:

1 week later
#1621 4 years ago
Quoted from PoMC:

OCD LED board. Should I install one and what's the price?

Definitely! I'm a big fan of the board in my Shadow -- the fade effect alone is well worth the $150 price.

Note that if you don't already have LEDs in your Shadow, you should avoid the more expensive "non-ghosting" bulbs. Unnecessary since you get that from the LED OCD anyway, and the non-ghosting circuitry apparently intefers with the LED OCD fade effects. I used the "50/50" SMD bulbs from Comet Pinball and am very happy with the result: http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/1smd5050.htm

For what it's worth, here's my post on LED bulb selection: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/28#post-2259482

Quoted from PoMC:

I'm missing a ring cover, are those available?

Unfortunately I think they're relatively hard to find -- you'll probably need to post a WTB and/or keep an eye on eBay.

1 month later
#1756 4 years ago
Quoted from Glarrownage:

Wow, Demo Man handles on a Shadow? I've never seen that before!

There was a blinged-out Shadow with Demo Man handles sold on Pinside a year or two ago. Not sure if this is the same one.

EDIT: Here we go: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fs-ts-the-shadow#post-1329504

#1777 4 years ago
Quoted from NinJaBooT:

The Shadow is the next ColorDMD!!!

Any more details on this? I ran a couple of searches and couldn't find anything (but am very, very curious!)

2 weeks later
#1898 4 years ago
Quoted from DMC:

Looks good. I made my own but these look better. Where'd you get them from?

Can you post a pic of your homemade ones (and any notes you have on material used, etc.)? I've been thinking about making my own since I don't love all the yellow up on the battlefield, but don't really like the commercially available options.

2 weeks later
#1969 4 years ago
Quoted from rcbrown316:

i have yet to see one in person but I am not seeing the value in 400 bucks to add color to these dmds.

I kind of fell the same way -- I'm sure it will look cool, but I've been telling myself that the original DMD gives Shadow an old-school look that's appropriate to the art deco style of the game. In that vein, I'd love to see a black and white (or grayscale) DMD on the game.

#1974 4 years ago
Quoted from rcbrown316:

black and white would look better than orange and maybe even better than color. color has a fisher-pricey look to it imo

Yeah, I don't know if ColorDMD has a setting you can easily toggle to do grayscale, but if so it'd be awesome if someone could shoot a little video and post it. I've always thought that'd look cool on a Shadow.

#2024 4 years ago
Quoted from embryonjohn:

Picked up mine yesterday. Get this. It's still in my car as I haven't a minute to do anything yesterday or today. It's like Christmas is tomorrow

Very nice price for a game that looks to be in great shape!

#2052 4 years ago
Quoted from someoneelse:

Does anybody have a reference of where PPS or Rick announced that they will reproduce the rings? Thanks.

Rick said "rings are in process" over here (in the context of shutting down a guy selling his own Phurba remakes):

#2057 4 years ago
Quoted from embryonjohn:

Who's got (selling) the best LED kit? I'm not looking to change the GI look to all blue or anything like that, just matching (to the insert) colored LED's to take the place of of the dim incandescent.

A kit is convenient but given your goals (sounds like you'd like to maintain something of the original look but brighten things up a bit), I'd strongly suggest doing your own. It's cheaper and you get much better control over the outcome. If you go that route, see my previous post re: bulb selection (I think I had a similar goal to you, keep the look of the game similar but brighten things up a bit):

If you swap the GI bulbs, also check my post re: one GI bulb under a ramp that's quite a PITA to remove (I did eventually get it).

Finally, you should consider adding the LED-OCD board, it eliminates ghosting and allows the LEDs to emulate incandescent fade very nicely. Totally worthwhile.

1 month later
#2201 4 years ago
Quoted from jwo825:

Also, the selling rules for the site have changed drastically in the last week.

The new Pinside market fees may only apply to sale of pinball machines (if it's been confirmed that there are fees for parts and mods I haven't seen that, just lots of speculation). Assuming for the moment that there are fees on mods, if the rate is the same as it appears to be for pinball machines (0.5%) it would add about 90 cents (!?!) to the cost of Aurich's Shadow alternate translite package. But Aurich would probably know best whether he's now subject to any new fees!

#2210 4 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

About translites: I saw another alternate version, which is almost the same as the original, the only difference being The Shadow instead of Baldwin (in the same position). I see there is a Bally/Midway signature on the lower left corner: is this a kind of official alternate translite?

There are no "official" alternate translites. I don't think I've seen one like you're describing (post a pic, I'd love to see it!), but it sounds like whoever did the art just added a Ball/Midway logo to it to give it an "official" look.

EDIT: Oh, it's probably this one (I don't see a big Bally logo on it so maybe the one you're looking at it slightly different?)

3 weeks later
#2353 4 years ago
Quoted from InfamousDolphin:

1.) Left Phurba was working fine, but recently moves to one side really well, but almost not at all on the other. I hit the button and I can hear it fire each time but it stops like midway or sometimes moves just a half inch or so

While you're adjusting your Phurbas, I'd recommend replacing the set screws, there are accounts of them stripping and they'd be a nightmare to get out if they do. Some discussion here:

1 month later
#2479 4 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

The "butt head" fastener might be more commonly known as a Sex Bolt.

This is a family-friendly thread, sir.

3 weeks later
#2554 4 years ago
Quoted from mandelbloom:

Hey guys... Is there anyway to easily remove the Mongols? Seems I have to pull a ramp to get to one of them was gonna have a friend paint them but don't feel like stripping the game LOL!

I asked the same question last year -- short answer is you can either bend the plastics a bit to access the nuts, or remove the ramps. I was nervous about it but had success bending the plastics without causing any damage. Discussion here:

And while I'm at it, here are a few posts re: my process for getting the Mongols painted:

#2556 3 years ago
Quoted from cavalier88z24:

Ok I've had this turd for about a year now. Sitting in a corner like bad child. Decided to take on this project now that I have time. Going to be a complete tear down. + $1000 in parts easily. This is a re import. With 2 big missing parts one is optometrist board for the battlefield drop targets and see if u can see the other one. Biggest part in the game. Is there anythings to look for before I begin the tear down? Could use some pointers. I'm not going to go through 50 pages. lol also there suppose to be 4 rings and 3 mongols right?


Yes, four rings, three Mongols, and two Phurbas, plus all your ramps and habitrails appear to be intact, so you're seemingly doing pretty well on the top side. If you're referring to the missing craptastic speaker panel, I think you've got a better look going there with the black wood!

4 weeks later
#2610 3 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

Anyway, I will buy some black rubbers for total control.
Do you know if all type of vendors use the same color scheme? I mean, I buy from pinballcenter.eu. Are their black rubbers harder than their red?

If you're not a rubber traditionalist, I highly recommend Titan Pinball's silicon rings:

There's a big discussion thread on Pinside about Titan rings, including a 10% discount code:

3 weeks later
#2661 3 years ago
Quoted from markmon:

I'm going to disagree with everyone that said this shouldn't happen. It's obviously part of the game design. Mode start is labelled on the right mode start. It's not even labelled on the khan hole. In either case, its such an obvious flow point. Left orbit, hold flipper to start mode. I always set up all shadows that I work on to do this. If your game doesn't do this, you want it to. Go adjust the angel of the upper flipper until it does.

Perhaps a stupid question, but I made this adjustment to the upper flipper a while back, and agree that it improves the flow of the game. However, now when my upper flipper is in the rest position it protrudes slightly and will occasionally deflect a right orbit shot. Is there a way to increase the overall range of motion of the upper flipper, so that it will rest flush yet extend sufficiently to feed the Kahn hole when it's help up to catch a left orbit shot? Or do you just have to chose between an ideal rest position and an ideal up position?

#2669 3 years ago
Quoted from someoneelse:

Actually you just put it in the correct position which is - as with ANY flipper ever produced - the rest position of course. It is a very awkward idea that any operator would take the time to adjust the flipper to automatically make the Kahn/Mode Start. IF the pin was meant be set up in such a delicate way they would have noted it in the manual or some service bulletin. Also, it is always referred to as a "shot", not a no-skill-dribble-in.
And you're mixing up "easy" and "flow". Shadow flows like hell because many shots can be connected consecutively. The Kahn/Mode Start is a saucer, it's a stop shot, the term flow is completely out of place here.
There is not more flow in the layout by using an exploit/adjustment trick to make it play easier.
EDIT: Now someone is even suggesting to physically alter/damage the machine to make the cheat shot possible...

Sorry, I wasn't looking to (re)start a debate about whether this adjustment is desirable, just asking about the mechanics of implementing it.

#2707 3 years ago
Quoted from fosaisu:

Is there a way to increase the overall range of motion of the upper flipper, so that it will rest flush yet extend sufficiently to feed the Kahn hole when it's help up to catch a left orbit shot? Or do you just have to chose between an ideal rest position and an ideal up position?

To follow up on this question, how about replacing the coil stop with one of a different length? I believe the Shadow upper flipper calls for coil stop A-12390:

Would either of these options give me a bit more range of motion in the upper flipper?

#2709 3 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Yes this will work, but which one? More travel= shorter coil stop. Somewhere there is a post showing all the different stop lengths for the different years.

Thanks for the pointer. I found this thread:

Which pointed to this discussion of flipper parts (including coil stop length) on this page:

Per that page, it sounds like Part No. A-12111 (http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=273) is slightly shorter than the stock A-12390, so maybe I'll give the A-12111 a try.

#2712 3 years ago
Quoted from mjthompson:

I'm going to shop a Shadow soon. At this point I'm thinking I'll use purple Titan rubber (flippers & rings) but I'd like thoughts on other colors that might work well with the game.

Classic black looks fantastic. I've tried purple (Superbands, not Titan) but it always bugged me a little that the shades didn't match. Maybe Titan's purple is a closer match though.

#2714 3 years ago
Quoted from indypinhead:

The problem w/ black rubber...gameplay isn't as fast as using white rubbers.
The black from the rubber transfers itself to the playfield in no time.

I've got black Titan rings and have been very pleased with them. The black rubbers they replaced did like to shed, I'll agree!

1 week later
#2736 3 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

question for the Shadow owners with full led setup: how is it when you play it? is it disturbing for the eyes?
I have several pinball machines, but none ledded. On my Shadow I only put led on the 6 six scenes inserts, and its fine. looking at the pictures here, I have to say that fully ledded machines look great. But I am a player, more than a collector, so I wonder how it is to play machines with so many leds in your face...

Totally depends on what your preferences are and what kind of LEDs you install. You can buy LEDs that put out roughly the same amount of light as an incandescent, all the way up to many times the brightness. I gave my LED list earlier in this thread -- it brightened up the game a bit, but my goal was to retain a relatively "natural" look and I think I achieved that well. Others go all-in with super-bright LEDs and colored GI -- not my cup of tea, but that's the beauty of customization!

I also installed the LED OCD board to maintain fade effects. Expensive but totally worth it if you're going to the trouble of LEDing you machine.

#2744 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinbally_1968:

After fixing the kicker issue i finally got a few, well 50+ games on it. I must say that Shadow is the most difficult game I have ever owned or played. It is sitting next to my Dracula, which also has a reputation of being difficult..but compared to Shadow, Dracula is peanuts. I have not been reading rules which i never do, and thus on Shadow I still do not have clue what to shoot for. There is no time to read the DMD, for me at least lol. For sure its one of the fastest games out there. Shortest ball times ever. Multiball(s) ... before getting into a certain level of control most of the times 1 or 2 already drained, the side drains are easy/cheap, let alone the STM's. Wheew..its a real challenge this one. At this point 1,1 billion is my maximum, not even close to finishing the game.
What are your experiences?

1.1 billion after 50 games sounds pretty good to me! Keep playing, you'll get the hang of it.

#2748 3 years ago
Quoted from markmon:

Shadow is a tough game to get set up properly but when set up correctly, a solid shot to left orbit, hold upper flipper up, should cause ball to bounce into the Kahn mode start. That makes the game tons easier. You can get through the modes that way.
One of my favorite combos is when Kahn mb is one rollover from being started and you get a skill shot for Mongol. Then it's plunge, left ramp Mongol start, left orbit to collect Mongol, hold flipper to start Kahn mb.
Getting the upper flipper bounce to mode start working involves having a rebuilt upper flipper so that there is no looseness that takes the energy from the ball.

I asked this a few days ago but roused your nemisis regarding upper flipper alignment instead of you - if you've rebuilt the upper flipper do you find it still protrudes out at all into the right orbit lane when you've got it adjusted to angle left orbit shots into the Khan hole? That's been my experience but I do need to rebuild all three flippers so maybe that will change things.

1 week later
#2796 3 years ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

Actually just wondering if there is an LED replacement for the incandescent bulb. Those four are the only lamps left to LED-ize.

Nope. I had the same frustration LEDing my Shadow, but you just have to live with it (or modify the rings to take LEDs -- there's a thread around here somewhere but the cost/benefit never seemed worth it to me).

#2804 3 years ago
Quoted from Bwilson:

Let's say that you somehow no longer have all of the wireforms, diverters, and gun for your game.
This is a hypothetical question. What is the likelihood of purchasing these items...
I'm going to assume that it's not possible to find a full set of wireforms, diverters, and gun for The Shadow. Unless you bought another game...

You could probably piece everything together over time from eBay and people parting out games here (I think the diverters would be the toughest thing if you're talking about the full mechs, they're hard to come by). I seriously doubt you'd find someone selling all the bits you want as a package, though. And I'm not sure how you would fare price-wise vs. just buying a complete version of the game.

#2806 3 years ago
Quoted from Bwilson:

Ok, well that sounds like it could takes months then which is what I was afraid of. Thanks for the response.

I should add that I haven't tried to do this myself since I bought my Shadow complete, so maybe I'm overestimating the difficulty. But I do keep an eye out for Shadow bits just out of curiosity, and what you're discussing definitely sounds like a "months" project not a "weeks" project.

#2813 3 years ago
Quoted from Aurich:

Mike did my Shadow gun's chrome too. Can't remember if I've posted this photo in this thread or not, but I had some custom wooden grips made, and then drilled them out to embed silver dimes from 1930, the year The Shadow was first on radio.
I kinda want to stain them darker, but please with how they look and feel.

Those look sweet (almost as sweet as that mountain of Girl Scout cookies in the background)! Mike chromed mine as well, and it looks fantastic.

Some day I'm hoping to find someone to make mother of pearl grips for it, but haven't figured that out quite yet, it's tricky because I gather the handle is essentially "life-sized" but the bolts are in different spots so you can't just use stock grips.

#2824 3 years ago
Quoted from Bos98:

How did no one notice the cases of Girl Scout cookies back there!!!

Hey, I'm standing right here!


1 week later
#2837 3 years ago
Quoted from embryonjohn:

Selling my beloved Shadow on northeast sale thread.
This is gonna hurt

Seems like a very fair price. GLWS, I see you're selling a number of pins, hope you're making room for something new instead of paying bills or the like (not that there's anything wrong with that).

#2861 3 years ago
Quoted from Sammy31:

I have LEDs in mine and they look fine without an OCD board.

Do you have non-ghosting LEDs or just standard LEDs? There seem to be differing reports on whether or not Shadow suffers from ghosting:

Quoted from swampfire:

I'm using a bunch of different LEDs in inserts right now, and none of them seem to ghost. I'll have to watch them more closely.

Quoted from Aurich:

Definitely seen it ghost. And no ghost bulbs fixed it. It was only certain inserts though. Ghosting drives me nuts though, I'm pretty hyperconscious of it.

I've got the LEDOCD board installed with Comet 50/50s. It's great. Even if LED strobing and ghosting are not issues for you, it maintains the "fade effect" you get from incandescents when they power on/off, which makes a noticeable difference in "smoothing out" the light show. Because of the fade effects alone, Shadow inarguably looks better with LEDOCD installed. But it's personal preference whether that difference is worth $150 for the board. For my part I'd happily spend that money again, but Shadow is also going to be a permanent member of my pinball family so I viewed it as a long-term investment.

One note: if you're going to use the LEDOCD board, you don't want non-ghosting bulbs (evidently the non-ghosting circuitry in the bulbs interferes w/ the LEDOCD functionality). So that saves you ~ $15 on insert LEDs if you go the LEDOCD route.

#2866 3 years ago
Quoted from Luddite:

I bought regular LEDs for GI and they seem to work very well for that purpose.

Quoted from markmon:

GI never needs to be non ghosting as led ghosting is caused by the way a lamp matrix is strobed. The GI is not part of the lamp matrix.

I can confirm that regular LEDs work just fine for the GI in Shadow.

The one place LEDs cause significant problems in the GI is on games with dimming effects (e.g. Blackout mode in Judge Dredd), where LEDs tend to flicker instead of dimming the way incandescents would. Non-ghosting bulbs cannot help with this issue. You can turn off GI dimming in many games (including Shadow -- turn off "Allow Dim Illumination," 25 in the Adjustments Menu) to avoid LED flicker, but then you lose the dimming effect. Luckily for Shadow, the only GI dimming is at the start of Shadow multiball, and because the flashers are also firing the flickering is much less noticeable, though you'll definitely still see it if you look for it.

Herg does make a GI OCD board that corrects LED flicker during GI dimming (and otherwise gives you the same level of control over the GI as his LED OCD board does over inserts), but it's probably not worthwhile for Shadow given the very limited use this game makes of GI dimming.

3 months later
#3079 3 years ago
Quoted from someoneelse:

That said, to me the original speaker panel is the REAL problem here. It doesn't fit the rest of the pins artwork at all and looks cheap as hell.

Same here, speaker panel was what convinced me to order the Aurich package.

9 months later
#3989 2 years ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

Nothing too fancy. Just re-chromed with white pear grips.
As Oldpinguy mentioned, I don't know of anything "off the shelf." I had some 1911 made without holes and then customized them a bit myself.

Can you share details on how you had those grips made? They look sweet! I chromed my gun and the stock grips now look pretty shabby by comparison.

#4006 2 years ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

I got them from Tombstone Gun Grips modeled after 1911 grips. Since The Shadow holes don't match up with 1911 grip holes I just had him shape them, but not drill the holes... Additionally, I notched them similarly to the stock Shadow grips. And, of course, buffed them to have a nice shine!

Thanks for this! Did you consider sending in a tracing to have him drill the holes and add the notches for you? Or would there have been significant additional cost for that? Also, do you know if you ordered the "Colt 1911 Smooth (16a)"? And what thickness did you go with (he offers thin/medium/thick).

1 month later
#4141 2 years ago
Quoted from waspinat0r:

I'm in! Game's awesome!

Congrats! It may not last a week at your place, but Shadow was my first pin and still probably my favorite almost four years later. There's so much Brian Eddy goodness in there and I think it holds its own with most of the classic B/W A List games, even if you don't like the theme (I happen to love it, so that doesn't hurt). Still a good deal even if the price has crept up over the years.

1 week later
#4173 2 years ago
Quoted from yellowghost:

A while back I asked if anybody has tried those small LED bulbs in place of the regular ring bulbs..well since those bulbs are fragile and hard to come by here..I tried a regular 555 LED and it works great.

Nice! Not too blinding when it flashes?

I also love the background objects in this photo. Adds to the air of mystery ...

1 week later
#4196 2 years ago
Quoted from Robertstone0407:

So I'm torn,should I powdercoat my shadow jet black or a dark jade green OR do a black to green fade.

The Shadow looks great in black. I started with black powdered legs from Pinball Life:

Eventually I'll get around to doing the siderails and lockdown to match.

3 weeks later
#4228 2 years ago
Quoted from dudah:

I'm also going to move the upper flipper back a bit so it's just flush against the ball guide. Now it's a few millimeters out and the upper loop shot is pretty hard, Khan saucer is VERY hard. With speed, damn near impossible.

Is it adjusted so that after you shoot the left orbit, if you hold the upper flipper down it directs the ball straight into the Khan saucer? That's a common way to adjust the upper flipper (but you end up with the flipper sticking out a bit, and it does obstruct the right orbit a bit).

#4241 2 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Double Mylar. This way if you need to replace a layer in the future, you won’t pull up the paint.

Or just use one layer of mylar but wax the playfield before you apply it. That way you can remove the mylar without pulling up the paint.

2 weeks later
#4261 2 years ago
Quoted from Robertstone0407:

Black nickle gun and i made my own pearl grips from scratch

Cool grips -- how'd you do it?

2 weeks later
#4303 2 years ago
Quoted from Parzival:

Is there a transparent Sanctum decal? My grey paint looks really good, but the decal I have isnt even close.

Throw some Mylar down and you’re good. Just wax the playfield first, so that the mylar will be more easy to remove if you ever need to (assuming the wax won’t interact badly with your paint).

3 weeks later
#4347 2 years ago
Quoted from yellowghost:

Tried "ice blue" and "cyan" bulbs in the inserts. Yah or nah?

I like ice blue better of those two, but still think warm white wins out on the mode inserts. There's enough blue tone surrounding them that I just think they look better with the white letters against black background when they're illuminated.

#4350 2 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

I tried ice blue and other colors and didn't like it. Like fosaisu said, there is a lot of blue in the art so white looks better. I used cool white in mine as well as cool white in gi. Only use warm white to light yellow and orange inserts.

Opinions differ of course, but I like warm white in Shadow GI and white inserts as it works well with the Art Deco feel and color scheme of the game (I color matched all my inserts, of course). I’d probably save the cool whites for “futuristic” games like DM and JM.

1 month later
#4428 2 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

There is also a red brick version

For those that prefers the brick wall backboard, it's pretty easy to make your own. Which is cheaper than and looks superior to the commercially available plastic and sticker brick wall options. Here's a write up:

1 month later
#4486 1 year ago

It's all good if you're doing it for your own use, but if you're selling them, you should remove the plaque. Or reach out to Aurich and work something out first if you absolutely must integrate his work into your design. It's not a legal issue obviously, but it's a small community and you'll be better received if you respect other people's work.

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