He said it's a colordmd set to green. Don't know much about them but I'd imagine it's this: http://shop.colordmd.com/colordmd-replacement-display-sigma/

You should start a collection! Aurich would know of course but it's well more than 50 by now, right?

Now you just need to make those pearlescent grips (and then tell the rest of us how you did it)!

I'm in! Thanks to dannunz for selling me his very nice game. I'm relieved to report that it made the trip from Mass to Colorado by STI without serious incident. Snuck a few games in the past few evenings and I'm loving it, seems like a perfect first machine for me. Now I just need to get Aurich's translite installed.

Shadow_Front-933.JPG

Although to be fair, shouldn't "sausage fingers" be reserved for the Nedry playfield art from Jurassic Park? Now that is truly objectionable (and not so easy to swap out)!

nedry.jpg

Does anyone have a decent screen-cap of one of the Mongol Warriors from the film? Thinking about painting mine (inspired by a post a few pages back where they were nicely touched up) and would love to match the costumes from the movie.

And another unrelated question: has anyone installed an LED OCD board in their Shadow and if so, any thoughts on going that route vs. using higher end non-ghosting LEDs?

I'm considering an LED conversion on my Shadow, and the manual lists multiple bulbs (both #906 and #89 flasher bulbs) for the following flashers:
21. Right Side Flasher
22. Right Ramp Flasher
23. Left Ramp Flasher

Do both bulbs go under the domes located in those three areas? Or does just the #906 go inside the dome (I'm assuming the #906s are under the dome any because the three flashers back by the Sanctum are all identified as having only a #906), with the #89 located somewhere else in the vicinity but presumably triggered at the same time as the dome flasher?

I ask because I'm trying to decide what if anything I want to do in terms of replacing flashers with LEDs, and determine for each flasher bulb whether to go with a tower design (which I assume would work well under a dome) or the more traditional flat one-direction LED flashers (which I assume would work better under plastics or in other locations other than a dome). Any help or advice much appreciated!

Thanks, one more LED question, would this LED bulb work for the Shadow Rings? (I'm guessing not since presumably everyone would be using them then, but it looks like the right size anyway):
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2710

I'm still thinking about having my Mongol Warriors painted with better detail, so I took a few pictures with my iPhone while watching the new Blu-ray of The Shadow this evening (hadn't seen it since the drive-in in '94, it was fun and cheesy as I remembered and definitely worth watching just to hear the call-outs from the game). Not as nice as you'd get doing screen captures if you've got the time and software, but this seemed good enough for my purposes (getting a general sense of the color scheme and pattern of the Mongol costumes in the movie).

Anyway, in case anyone else is interested, here's a link to a few of my pictures of the Mongol Warriors from the film: https://plus.google.com/photos/107054748656177255713/albums/5985719877865948481?authkey=CO_au6Ljt5zYxAE

Probably a silly question but does anyone know if it's possible to remove the Mongol figurines without taking apart the left ramp? From a quick glance at the near-left Mongol I thought I'd be able to just pop the figurines out quickly (planning to have them repainted) but as I look closer I didn't see a way to access the nuts on the underside of the plastics without removing the ramp. But I'm hoping I've missed something and someone can point me in an easier direction. Thanks!

Sorry to bump my own question, but thought it might have gone unnoticed with all the recent activity. Anyone who has removed (or installed) Mongol warriors have any thoughts on this?

For anyone that's done LEDs for the GI, I got 36 of the GI bulbs swapped without too much trouble by unscrewing each fixture from under the playfield. But there's one GI fixture burried under the right ramp that seems virtually inaccessible from under the playfield (at least with the standard harbor freight socket wrench or the various pliers I've got in my toolbox). Is there a secret to getting at that, maybe an alternate tool people have successfully used, or do I have to go at it from the top, removing the large brick plastic under the right ramp (which would appear to require removing the right Phurba and at least part of the ramp as well)? Thanks in advance for any suggestions!

Yes, as I was cursing at it last night I thought I remembered reading a post of yours about the one bulb you weren't able to reach. Sorry to hear that I found it too!

To answer my own question, the GI bulb under the right ramp is replaceable using this "1/4 inch Drive Universal Joint" angle attachment for your socket wrench, $5 at Home Depot if you don't own one already:
Universal Joint.jpg

This attachment was also handy in replacing the right ramp flasher (accessible but a real PITA to get out with a standard socket wrench).

It was still a bit of a hassle to get the screw out and then back in again after swapping in the LED, so if you don't already own this or a similar tool I would only recommend doing this if you're anal enough about this kind of thing that it's always going to bother you a little bit that you only converted 97% of your GI to LEDs. I'm that guy, so I'm glad I made found a suitable tool for the job and got that last LED installed.

Thanks for the advice! I was able to remove the Mongol Warrior to the left of the left ramp by doing as you said and prying the plastic up a bit to get access to the nuts (I first removed several screws holding the left ramp in place to create a bit more room to lift the plastic). Doesn't seem to have done any harm to the plastic (though as you say, a bit of a PITA). The one on the right of the ramp had nuts I could reach with needle nose pliers without removing anything. The one on the right of the playfield I had to remove two of the Mongol targets to get access to the nuts. Overall, took some time and cursing but I got them off without doing any damage to the game or the figurines. Now to get them painted, and then reinstalled ...

Congrats! Now here's hoping this inspires you to design LEDs for the Shadow rings ...

Is your next move to install lightning flippers? I wouldn't have thought The Shadow was a game that needed toughening up!

Ingenious! That'd keep my ball times down to 30 seconds or so, allowing me to cram in triple the amount of games in the same playtime.

Next step in the evolution -- upgrade to oversized, overweight balls the same width as the ramps to tighten up those gimmie Phurba shots!

Let us know what you come up with -- sounds like the majority of the Shadows out there have at least some lag on the battlefield targets so if there's a solution we'd love to hear it!

Same here. Just figured that was part of the game but it sounds like some machines never have this happen at all?

A few months back I found someone on a Warhammer board to paint my Mongol Warriors to add detail and better match the costumes from the film (I'm not a miniatures guy but that seemed like a good place to find a painter for this project). Last night I finally got them installed and I'm very pleased with the outcome, the painter did excellent work at a very reasonable price. [EDIT: And appologies for the crap photos, turns out my lighting scheme leaves something to be desired]

IMG_4066.JPG
IMG_4068.JPG
IMG_4069.JPG

Good call. War Paint Miniature Studios (Jason Lawson / [email protected]) was well recommended on the Warhammer forum dakkadakka.com, and he was game to paint pinball bits. I paid $10/figure plus shipping (so total cost of ~ $40 for the entire project), which is less than I would have spent for paints and equipment to do it myself, and with massively superior results. Also significantly cheaper than any painter of comprable quality I found after a fair bit of google research.

Here's a link to his Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/WarPaintMiniatureStudios#!/WarPaintMiniatureStudios/timeline

And here's a link to at least one of the forums where I read about his work (his username there is "J'santai Khan"):
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/150/248070.page#6278438

So if you're considering having your Mongol Warriors painted (or any other pinball-related figurines, structures or objects for that matter) I'd 100% recommend getting in touch with Jason.

_{Post edited by fosaisu: typos}

A great idea, the swords are oddly thick as designed! Fire it up and post some pics and maybe you'll inspire me to pull the Mongols off and take a second crack at them (just kidding, I think they'll be staying right where they are now that they're prettied up to my satisfaction, but I would love to see what you come up with in the sword dept.)

[EDIT: Sweet, just noticed I got the 1000th post in The Shadow Club!]

Cool concept, I could imagine this looking great if it's done right!

If you've seen the movie, the Shadow's rings are always red. So while the "Technicolor Dream Coat" approach might look interesting, it'd be a significant departure from the theme.

Cool design! Keep posting updates (and maybe ask Aurich if he's willing to share his supplier, I have his alt-translite and the print quality is great).

If you don't feel like painting, here's another option that looks better than a mismatched sticker IMO:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/shadow-sanctum-new-decal-mod

Very weird, the "Shadow Last Plastic Mod" comes up in a search on eBay, but then the link seems to be broken and just redirects to a "related items" search. Might be worth trying to message the seller pugsotoys5zpt to see if he's still selling them, which you can apparently do via this page: ebay.com link: ws)

And you may have considered it already, but here's another nice treatment for that back wall (obviously I'm biased since I went with this option):
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/brick-wall-for-the-shadow-thanks-gov

Do it, you won't regret it! The diverters are such a cool feature. I'm terrible at pinball so I rarely kick ass in Vengeance mode, but it's such a rush when you get into a flow and are just nailing those shots and toggling the Phurbas. And prices seem to have stabilized or even declined a bit over the past 6-8 months, so now's probably as good a time as any to pick one up.

Here's my full list. I used "1 SMD 6.3V AC/DC SUPREME BRIGHTNESS 5050 BULB" with FROSTED lenses from Comet Pinball: http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/1smd5050.htm

I use the LED OCD board (http://ledocd.com/) in my Shadow so you'd probably do better going with one of Comet's non-ghosting bulb varieties (http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/1smd5050ng.htm) if you don't plan to install the board.

If you like more of a "cold" look to your games you might swap the "WARM" bulbs below for "NATURAL." The warm bulbs look closer to incandescents and to my eye better match the art deco theme of the pin. They're cheap, so consider buying some of both types and playing around to see which you prefer.

PLAYFIELD INSERTS
11. SHOOT AGAIN – 44 ORANGE
12. LEFT OUTLANE – 44 GREEN
13. LEFT RETURN LANE – 44 GREEN
14. RIGHT RETURN LANE – 44 GREEN
15. RIGHT OUTLANE – 44 GREEN
16. MONGO(L) – 44 WARM
17. RIGHT LOOP ARROW – 44 RED
18. RIGHT MONGOL HURRY – 44 WARM
21. LEFT RAMP JACKPOT – 555 ORANGE
22. MON(G)OL – 555 WARM
23. LEFT RAMP ARROW -555 RED
24. MO(N)GOL – 555 WARM
25. M(O)NGOL – 555 WARM
26. (M)ONGOL – 555 WARM
27. FARLEY CLAYMORE – 555 WARM
28. UNDERWATER DOOM – 555 WARM
31. SCARF SCENES COMPLETE – 555 RED
32. SCARF BATTLEFIELD – 555 RED
33. SCARF SHADOW MULTIBALL – 555 RED
34. SCARF KHAN MULTIBALL – 555 RED
35. PUNISH GUILTY – 555 WARM
36. DUAL OF WILLS – 555 WARM
37. BERYLLIUM SPHEE – 555 WARM
38. HOTEL MONOLITH – 555 WARM
41. RIGHT RAMP ARROW – 555 RED
42. RIGHT RAMP JACKPOT – 555 ORANGE
43. “START SCENE” – 555 ORANGE
44. WHO KNOWS – 555 ORANGE
45. EXTRA BALL – 555 ORANGE
46. FINAL BATTLE – 555 ORANGE
47. SHADOW LOOP – 555 WARM
48. INNER LOOP JACKPOT – 555 ORANGE
51. LOCK 2 – 555 GREEN
52. LOCK 3 – 555 GREEN
53. LOCK 1 – 555 GREEN
54. INNER SANCTUM ARROW – 555 RED
55. CENTER STANDUP – 555 WARM
56. BATTLEFIELD READY – 555 ORANGE
57. BATTLE DROP JACKPOT – 555 ORANGE
58. INNER LOOP ARROW – 555 RED
61. MINI LEFT STANDUP 4 – 555 ORANGE
62. MINI LEFT STANDUP 3 – 555 ORANGE
63. MINI LEFT STANDUP 2 – 555 ORANGE
64. MINI LEFT STANDUP 1 – 555 ORANGE
65. MINI TOP CENTER LEFT – 44 ORANGE
66. KHAN MULTIBALL -555 ORANGE
67. SUPER JACKPOT – 555 WARM
68. BATTLE DROP ARROW – 555 RED
71. MINI RIGHT STANDUP 4 – 555 ORANGE
72. MINI RIGHT STANDUP 3 – 555 ORANGE
73. MINI RIGHT STANDUP 2 – 555 ORANGE
74. MINI RIGHT STANDUP 1 – 555 ORANGE
75. MINI TOP CENTER RIGHT – 44 ORANGE
76. LEFT LOOP JACKPOT – 555 ORANGE
77. LEFT MONGOL HURRY – 555 WARM
78. LEFT LOOP ARROW – 555 RED
81. LEFT RAMP LEFT RING – “SPECIAL” – 555 RED
82. LEFT RAMP LEFT RING – “SPECIAL” – 555 RED
83. RIGHT RAMP LEFT RING – “SPECIAL” – 555 RED
84. RIGHT RAMP RIGHT RING – “SPECIAL” – 555 RED
85. RIGHT EJECT ARROW – 44 RED
86. MONG(O)L – 44 WARM

87. BUY IN – 555 ORANGE BUTTON
Cointaker button bulb http://shop.cointaker.com/product.sc?productId=732&categoryId=97

88. START BUTTON – 555 GREEN BUTTON
Cointaker button bulb http://shop.cointaker.com/product.sc?productId=733&categoryId=97

BACKBOX
555 WARM (34)

PLAYFIELD GI
44 WARM (36)

FLASHERS
17. MINI PLAYFIELD FLASHER – #89 RED
17. BACKBOX – #906 WARM (2)
18. LEFT SIDE FLASHER – #89 WARM [5 SMD Tower]
18. BACKBOX – #906 WARM
21. RIGHT SIDE FLASHER - #906 RED [5 SMD Tower]
22. RIGHT RAMP FLASHER
- #906 RED
- #89 RED [5 SMD Tower]
23. LEFT RAMP FLASHER
- #906 RED
- #89 WARM [5 SMD Tower]
26. LEFT BACK FLASHER – #906 RED
26. BACKBOX – #906 WARM
27. CENTER BACK FLASHER – #906 RED
27. BACKBOX – #906 WARM
28. RIGHT BACK FLASHER – #906 RED
28. BACKBOX – #906 WARM

For flasher bulbs I went mostly with Comet's 8 SMD flashers(http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/8smdflash.htm), except where noted as a 5 SMD tower (http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/5smdflash.htm), which I used on the flashers closer to the player to avoid eye irritation. For the ring domes and the three domes on the back wall I lifted a trick from Aurich and added a bit of cotton from a cotton ball to each dome to diffuse the flashes, works great!

Good luck and happy LEDing!

Cheers! I found lots of useful posts and advice here when I was LEDing mine last year, so happy to return the favor.

Yeah I should have clarified that I've never tried non-ghosting bulbs in my Shadow. I went with the LED OCD board for the on/off fade effect and to avoid flicker, with non-ghosting as a side benefit. It might be worth asking around to see if anyone has tried both in a Shadow and can advise whether it's worth the extra $.20/bulb to go with Comet's non-ghosting.

EDIT: But if you ever think you'd want to install an LED OCD board then you should actually avoid non-ghosting bulbs. LED OCD already eliminates ghosting, and apparently the circuitry in the non-ghosting bulbs somewhat limits the fade effects LED OCD can produce.

I'm sure you noticed on Comet's website but they sell 25-packs at a slight discount, so take advantage of that for the bulbs you need more of. And I'd recommend looking around his site and picking up a few sample bulbs (e.g. try a few "natural" and "daylight" bulbs) just to test them out. Part of the fun of LED-ing is tweaking it to get it just they way you want!

Oh, and if you ever think you'll want to do spotlights on the battlefield, order two bulbs for that while you're at it! I'm still messing around with mine, but have been relatively happy with the fan-shaped bulbs in warm white (http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/6smdfan.htm).

I'm planning to give Titan Pinball's new silicone rings a try. With that in mind, I took the rubber ring list from the manual and updated to reflect what I see on my game (noted below). If anyone here has re-rubbered their Shadow, did the rubber sizes from the manual (shown below) work out OK for you?:

• Flipper rings x3 [manual incorrectly calls for 2]
• Post Sleeves x6
• 7/16 Inch O.D. rings x2 (manual calls for Part No. 23-6694-1 which it says is a 3/32" ring. Most sites seem to identify 23-6694-1 as a 7/16" ID ring so that's what I'm looking at here)
• 5/16 Inch I.D. rings x5 (manual calls for 3, I added 2 for outlane posts)
• 3/4 Inch I.D. rings x2
• 1 Inch I.D. rings x2
• 1 1/4 Inch I.D. ring x1
• 2 1/2 Inch I.D. rings x2

I've never redone decals, but if I were going to I'd read through Bryan Kelly's awesome thread on his restoration process. Lots of good details on cabinet prep and decal installation (along with many other subjects) from a total pro. Here's a link to a few posts where he's talking about removing the old decals, prepping the cabinet, and installing the new decals:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ij-restoration-started#post-1075201

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ij-restoration-started/page/2#post-1079772

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ij-restoration-started/page/5#post-1107311

Where did you find that Farley Claymore figurine?!?

Not sure if this qualifies as cheap but PPS and Marco have the individual figurines in stock:
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-03-9248
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-9248

Alternately you could throw up a WTB, I was able to pick one up a bit cheaper that way.

Have you had any trouble with the mirrors getting scraped up when you raise and lower the playfield? I thought I read somewhere that the Shadow has a pretty tight playfield fit and is tough on mirror blades for that reason.

I hate to be pedantic but don't you mean "tit two"?

Congrats! I see you kicked the taxi to the curb in favor of the lighted topper. And I'd love to have an IJ to park next to my Shadow!

Purely a matter of preference but I much prefer The Shadow with warm white -- fits the art deco theme of the game. Here's a a post where I laid out my LED scheme for the entire machine. One man's opinion, of course, but might be of some use as you're selecting LEDs:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/28#post-2259482

I went with warm white in mine -- I've read that yellow and orange LEDs tend to be dimmer than other colors of the same style, and the warm white looks great.

I'd go with purple or blue to best match the caps. I recommend the 5 SMD flashers for bulbs closer to the player since the 8 SMDs can be blindingly bright. Or use Aurich's trick and throw a bit of cotton ball in each flasher cap to diffuse the light. Works great!

Purely preference but I think the game looks sharp with the original black. Transparent doesn't really fit the retro theme IMO.

I have the target decals on the Mongol targets and think they look great. Had one pop off a few times but used some rubber cement on it and no problems since. Haven't tried them on the Battlefield drop targets but they evidently send some extra stickers that extend below the playfield so the stickers don't get hung up when the target drops.

EDIT: Here's a series of posts where the battlefield decals are discussed: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/28#post-2241452]

For instance, here: http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=380

Of course once you add shipping you may not save a ton over the eBay piece, unless you're planning to order other stuff from Pinballlife. But if you can hold out and add it to your next Pinballlife order, that's the way to go!

Yes - and I ordered one of these switches a while back but haven't got round to installing it yet!

No, just one for the right side of the left Phurba ramp.

I know zip about playfield restoration, but is it possible to take pics that show the bump a little better? Is it visible from the underside of the playfield? That might help you get the best advice from those with the experience to offer it!

A playfield restore shouldn't affect gameplay (assuming that the alternative would be to repair just the sanctum area, either by filling the divot and using the sticker, or filling the divot and repainting that entire area -- that divot is a likely contributor to your sanctum issues) -- it would just make everything look beautiful and the extra clear coat would give more protection from future wear. I agree with Aurich that you should give it a good cleaning before deciding what to do. Do some searches on pinside for cleaning advice as far as products and technique to avoid any risk of damage.

Personally, I love the game enough that if I had the top side broken down already I'd be tempted to have the playfield restored (like you, it's my only pin and isn't going anywhere). But if being "upside down" on the game is going to bother you in the long run, I wouldn't bet that The Shadow, even with a mint restored playfield, will be selling for $4,250 anytime soon.

Make sure all four rings are there, very difficult to find replacements.

Replacement Mongol figurines are available (each of the three Mongols holds a sword, but there aren't separate sword figurines).
http://www.pinballdecals.com/PartsByGamePages/Shadow_Page.html

There's a player's condition Shadow listed on Mr. Pinball for $2k, local pickup only in Vancouver. If the condition is correctly described this seems like a pretty good deal.

It sounds like Jean-Luc-Picard had a similar problem (though maybe missing part instead of all of that piece), might be worth dropping him a PM to see how he solved it:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club?tu=jean-luc-picard#post-1162418

Re: the dagger, what exactly is missing? If it's just the decorative Phurba "topper" for the diverter, those are available:
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-03-9249P
http://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/game-specific-items/bally/the-shadow/the-shadow-phurba-dagger.html

If the entire diverter assembly is missing, that's a much bigger deal, and you'd probably have to hope to find someone parting out a Shadow.

Here's a thread discussing various Sanctum restoration options:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-inner-sanctum-repair-tips

Definitely! I'm a big fan of the board in my Shadow -- the fade effect alone is well worth the $150 price.
http://ledocd.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=8

Note that if you don't already have LEDs in your Shadow, you should avoid the more expensive "non-ghosting" bulbs. Unnecessary since you get that from the LED OCD anyway, and the non-ghosting circuitry apparently intefers with the LED OCD fade effects. I used the "50/50" SMD bulbs from Comet Pinball and am very happy with the result: http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/1smd5050.htm

For what it's worth, here's my post on LED bulb selection: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/28#post-2259482

Unfortunately I think they're relatively hard to find -- you'll probably need to post a WTB and/or keep an eye on eBay.

There was a blinged-out Shadow with Demo Man handles sold on Pinside a year or two ago. Not sure if this is the same one.

EDIT: Here we go: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fs-ts-the-shadow#post-1329504

Any more details on this? I ran a couple of searches and couldn't find anything (but am very, very curious!)

Can you post a pic of your homemade ones (and any notes you have on material used, etc.)? I've been thinking about making my own since I don't love all the yellow up on the battlefield, but don't really like the commercially available options.

I kind of fell the same way -- I'm sure it will look cool, but I've been telling myself that the original DMD gives Shadow an old-school look that's appropriate to the art deco style of the game. In that vein, I'd love to see a black and white (or grayscale) DMD on the game.

Yeah, I don't know if ColorDMD has a setting you can easily toggle to do grayscale, but if so it'd be awesome if someone could shoot a little video and post it. I've always thought that'd look cool on a Shadow.

Very nice price for a game that looks to be in great shape!

Rick said "rings are in process" over here (in the context of shutting down a guy selling his own Phurba remakes):
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-sale-phurba-the-shadow-exact-replicas#post-2582345

A kit is convenient but given your goals (sounds like you'd like to maintain something of the original look but brighten things up a bit), I'd strongly suggest doing your own. It's cheaper and you get much better control over the outcome. If you go that route, see my previous post re: bulb selection (I think I had a similar goal to you, keep the look of the game similar but brighten things up a bit):
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club?tu=fosaisu#post-2259482

If you swap the GI bulbs, also check my post re: one GI bulb under a ramp that's quite a PITA to remove (I did eventually get it).

Finally, you should consider adding the LED-OCD board, it eliminates ghosting and allows the LEDs to emulate incandescent fade very nicely. Totally worthwhile.

The new Pinside market fees may only apply to sale of pinball machines (if it's been confirmed that there are fees for parts and mods I haven't seen that, just lots of speculation). Assuming for the moment that there are fees on mods, if the rate is the same as it appears to be for pinball machines (0.5%) it would add about 90 cents (!?!) to the cost of Aurich's Shadow alternate translite package. But Aurich would probably know best whether he's now subject to any new fees!

There are no "official" alternate translites. I don't think I've seen one like you're describing (post a pic, I'd love to see it!), but it sounds like whoever did the art just added a Ball/Midway logo to it to give it an "official" look.

EDIT: Oh, it's probably this one (I don't see a big Bally logo on it so maybe the one you're looking at it slightly different?)
Shadow_Alt_Translite.jpg

While you're adjusting your Phurbas, I'd recommend replacing the set screws, there are accounts of them stripping and they'd be a nightmare to get out if they do. Some discussion here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/14#post-1449324

This is a family-friendly thread, sir.

I asked the same question last year -- short answer is you can either bend the plastics a bit to access the nuts, or remove the ramps. I was nervous about it but had success bending the plastics without causing any damage. Discussion here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/17#post-1624632

And while I'm at it, here are a few posts re: my process for getting the Mongols painted:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/14#post-1489865
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/20#post-1838262

Yes, four rings, three Mongols, and two Phurbas, plus all your ramps and habitrails appear to be intact, so you're seemingly doing pretty well on the top side. If you're referring to the missing craptastic speaker panel, I think you've got a better look going there with the black wood!

If you're not a rubber traditionalist, I highly recommend Titan Pinball's silicon rings:
https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=52

There's a big discussion thread on Pinside about Titan rings, including a 10% discount code:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-product-competition-silicone-rings

Perhaps a stupid question, but I made this adjustment to the upper flipper a while back, and agree that it improves the flow of the game. However, now when my upper flipper is in the rest position it protrudes slightly and will occasionally deflect a right orbit shot. Is there a way to increase the overall range of motion of the upper flipper, so that it will rest flush yet extend sufficiently to feed the Kahn hole when it's help up to catch a left orbit shot? Or do you just have to chose between an ideal rest position and an ideal up position?

Sorry, I wasn't looking to (re)start a debate about whether this adjustment is desirable, just asking about the mechanics of implementing it.

To follow up on this question, how about replacing the coil stop with one of a different length? I believe the Shadow upper flipper calls for coil stop A-12390:
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=272

Would either of these options give me a bit more range of motion in the upper flipper?
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=273
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4005

Thanks for the pointer. I found this thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/flipper-travel-1

Which pointed to this discussion of flipper parts (including coil stop length) on this page:
http://www.pinballnews.com/learn/flippers/index5.html

Per that page, it sounds like Part No. A-12111 (http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=273) is slightly shorter than the stock A-12390, so maybe I'll give the A-12111 a try.

Classic black looks fantastic. I've tried purple (Superbands, not Titan) but it always bugged me a little that the shades didn't match. Maybe Titan's purple is a closer match though.

I've got black Titan rings and have been very pleased with them. The black rubbers they replaced did like to shed, I'll agree!

Totally depends on what your preferences are and what kind of LEDs you install. You can buy LEDs that put out roughly the same amount of light as an incandescent, all the way up to many times the brightness. I gave my LED list earlier in this thread -- it brightened up the game a bit, but my goal was to retain a relatively "natural" look and I think I achieved that well. Others go all-in with super-bright LEDs and colored GI -- not my cup of tea, but that's the beauty of customization!

I also installed the LED OCD board to maintain fade effects. Expensive but totally worth it if you're going to the trouble of LEDing you machine.

1.1 billion after 50 games sounds pretty good to me! Keep playing, you'll get the hang of it.

I asked this a few days ago but roused your nemisis regarding upper flipper alignment instead of you - if you've rebuilt the upper flipper do you find it still protrudes out at all into the right orbit lane when you've got it adjusted to angle left orbit shots into the Khan hole? That's been my experience but I do need to rebuild all three flippers so maybe that will change things.

Nope. I had the same frustration LEDing my Shadow, but you just have to live with it (or modify the rings to take LEDs -- there's a thread around here somewhere but the cost/benefit never seemed worth it to me).

You could probably piece everything together over time from eBay and people parting out games here (I think the diverters would be the toughest thing if you're talking about the full mechs, they're hard to come by). I seriously doubt you'd find someone selling all the bits you want as a package, though. And I'm not sure how you would fare price-wise vs. just buying a complete version of the game.

I should add that I haven't tried to do this myself since I bought my Shadow complete, so maybe I'm overestimating the difficulty. But I do keep an eye out for Shadow bits just out of curiosity, and what you're discussing definitely sounds like a "months" project not a "weeks" project.

Those look sweet (almost as sweet as that mountain of Girl Scout cookies in the background)! Mike chromed mine as well, and it looks fantastic.

Some day I'm hoping to find someone to make mother of pearl grips for it, but haven't figured that out quite yet, it's tricky because I gather the handle is essentially "life-sized" but the bolts are in different spots so you can't just use stock grips.

Hey, I'm standing right here!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/57#post-3159229

Seems like a very fair price. GLWS, I see you're selling a number of pins, hope you're making room for something new instead of paying bills or the like (not that there's anything wrong with that).

Do you have non-ghosting LEDs or just standard LEDs? There seem to be differing reports on whether or not Shadow suffers from ghosting:

I've got the LEDOCD board installed with Comet 50/50s. It's great. Even if LED strobing and ghosting are not issues for you, it maintains the "fade effect" you get from incandescents when they power on/off, which makes a noticeable difference in "smoothing out" the light show. Because of the fade effects alone, Shadow inarguably looks better with LEDOCD installed. But it's personal preference whether that difference is worth $150 for the board. For my part I'd happily spend that money again, but Shadow is also going to be a permanent member of my pinball family so I viewed it as a long-term investment.

One note: if you're going to use the LEDOCD board, you don't want non-ghosting bulbs (evidently the non-ghosting circuitry in the bulbs interferes w/ the LEDOCD functionality). So that saves you ~ $15 on insert LEDs if you go the LEDOCD route.

I can confirm that regular LEDs work just fine for the GI in Shadow.

The one place LEDs cause significant problems in the GI is on games with dimming effects (e.g. Blackout mode in Judge Dredd), where LEDs tend to flicker instead of dimming the way incandescents would. Non-ghosting bulbs cannot help with this issue. You can turn off GI dimming in many games (including Shadow -- turn off "Allow Dim Illumination," 25 in the Adjustments Menu) to avoid LED flicker, but then you lose the dimming effect. Luckily for Shadow, the only GI dimming is at the start of Shadow multiball, and because the flashers are also firing the flickering is much less noticeable, though you'll definitely still see it if you look for it.

Herg does make a GI OCD board that corrects LED flicker during GI dimming (and otherwise gives you the same level of control over the GI as his LED OCD board does over inserts), but it's probably not worthwhile for Shadow given the very limited use this game makes of GI dimming.

Same here, speaker panel was what convinced me to order the Aurich package.

Can you share details on how you had those grips made? They look sweet! I chromed my gun and the stock grips now look pretty shabby by comparison.

Thanks for this! Did you consider sending in a tracing to have him drill the holes and add the notches for you? Or would there have been significant additional cost for that? Also, do you know if you ordered the "Colt 1911 Smooth (16a)"? And what thickness did you go with (he offers thin/medium/thick).

Congrats! It may not last a week at your place, but Shadow was my first pin and still probably my favorite almost four years later. There's so much Brian Eddy goodness in there and I think it holds its own with most of the classic B/W A List games, even if you don't like the theme (I happen to love it, so that doesn't hurt). Still a good deal even if the price has crept up over the years.

Nice! Not too blinding when it flashes?

I also love the background objects in this photo. Adds to the air of mystery ...

The Shadow looks great in black. I started with black powdered legs from Pinball Life:
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1358

Eventually I'll get around to doing the siderails and lockdown to match.

Is it adjusted so that after you shoot the left orbit, if you hold the upper flipper down it directs the ball straight into the Khan saucer? That's a common way to adjust the upper flipper (but you end up with the flipper sticking out a bit, and it does obstruct the right orbit a bit).

Or just use one layer of mylar but wax the playfield before you apply it. That way you can remove the mylar without pulling up the paint.

Cool grips -- how'd you do it?

Throw some Mylar down and you’re good. Just wax the playfield first, so that the mylar will be more easy to remove if you ever need to (assuming the wax won’t interact badly with your paint).

I like ice blue better of those two, but still think warm white wins out on the mode inserts. There's enough blue tone surrounding them that I just think they look better with the white letters against black background when they're illuminated.

Opinions differ of course, but I like warm white in Shadow GI and white inserts as it works well with the Art Deco feel and color scheme of the game (I color matched all my inserts, of course). I’d probably save the cool whites for “futuristic” games like DM and JM.

For those that prefers the brick wall backboard, it's pretty easy to make your own. Which is cheaper than and looks superior to the commercially available plastic and sticker brick wall options. Here's a write up:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/brick-wall-for-the-shadow-thanks-gov#post-1644357

It's all good if you're doing it for your own use, but if you're selling them, you should remove the plaque. Or reach out to Aurich and work something out first if you absolutely must integrate his work into your design. It's not a legal issue obviously, but it's a small community and you'll be better received if you respect other people's work.