Shadow, The
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Quoted from Tommy_Pins:How's the lasting ability with this pin. I'm leaning towards this for my next pin.
Very challenging pin, IMO. Starting modes is difficult for me, since the mode start is a tight shot next to the right diverter ramp or a low shot from the upper flipper. That's where I have most difficulty progressing. Very fast, fun and difficult game.
Quoted from dudah:You're a very lucky man!
I forgot who, but somebody sells those diverter phurbas.
https://www.pinballinc.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=179
They have shiny ones too.
I need a little help please. I put in NVRAM, play tested and worked fine. Noticed a green/orange wire twisted to a black wire, running to J206. Didnt think anything of it, and put a trifurcon connector directly into a housing and plugged it in. Did some other playfield work, turn it on to play test a couple times and shortly after a few minutes of play, I lose all insert lamps and GI. Flashers still work. In test, the GI works, but none of the controlled lamps work. I look in the manual and see that J206 is NOT USED, as well as J208 and as you can see in the pic there is a white/yellow wire going into J208. Can someone post a picture of their connectors at J206 and J208? I'm trying to figure out what the wiring is supposed to be like.
It probably isnt related but what do you all think? I found in the manual where it says the circuit will turn off but it's all Greek to me. Any help would be appreciated!
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I checked connectors at J113, J134, and J138, and all were fine. I tightened the screws to the power driver board as they were all loose.
Quoted from Manny65:Here a pic of my connections - I'm on a work zoom call so haven't investigated for you
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So it looks like my wires are connected properly, despite what the manual says. Ok, that's good. Now to try finding out what's causing my lights to go dead. All of the controlled lamps are out and dont work in test. All of the GI is out but work in test.
Quoted from Manny65:When you tested the flashers, did you close the coin door? As having the coin door open disables the solenoid and flasher circuits
The flashers tested ok. They work in-game and in test.
I tried reseating all of the connectors on the MPU as I've read that a ribbon cable could be the culprit. Also checked a few bulbs in the GI that I was working with right before it happened, and no change.
Going back to the lamp matrix blurb that I posted, it states that in over current conditions, the lamps are shut off through the comparator. What could cause over current in this situation? I did not do anything with any of the controlled lamps. When it happened, it was during ball 1, and I was leaning over the game to look at something and then all lights went dead. The game still played on.
Well, I took off fuse F114 to test it and it tested good, reinstalled it, and pressed in the ASIC a bit because pinwiki, and the lights started working again. So it was one of the two things. I think the fuse being removed and reinstalled did it though tbh
Glad it was an easy fix!
Quoted from isJ:Forgive me.. it's the right phurba that doesn't fire. I can't figure out what would change off of me flipping out BR2 on the power driver board. I just did a reseat and the same issue is around, so I don't think it's a physical short up by the board.
Are you seeing the switch activate in switch test? Does the coil fire in test?
Quick question on the upper flipper alignment. Is the proper alignment where the rubber is resting on the guiderail behind the flipper (as in above pic)? Or should the flipper be parallel with the guide rail?
Also, anyone know where I can get new nuts/bolts that hold the two sides of the gun together? Mine is missing a set.
Quoted from GRUMPY:I have not tried these as of yet, but they should fit. When I have my gun replated I was going to use these as mine are rusted badly.
Guess I'll have to take the one I have out and measure, to make sure it will fit correctly. thanks!
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:Grumpy very seldom makes mistakes.
It is, in fact, the correct size 
Quoted from jonesjb:Interesting - I'm pretty sure that factory is to only have the post sleeve on the one post.
I tested it about 10 times from the right flipper and it went in every time. Before, it would reject at least 50% of the time. The post sleeve that was there was pretty crusty, so I dont know if it was because I put a fresh sleeve there or if it was due to the 2, but just from the test, it certainly plays better. I haven't put in any real games yet, so I guess the verdict is still out there?
Quoted from GRUMPY:Every metal post always needs some kind of rubber sleeve or ring. Can't have the ball beating into a metal post.
Played about a dozen games this morning, and yes, there should be a sleeve on both sides as I am not getting any rejects anymore. In case anyone was wondering 
Quoted from allsportdvd:I’m noticing when on the battlefield that when I move the paddle to the right that the whole battlefield dips slightly to the right as well but stays straight when going left. Has anyone else experienced this or is it normal?
That's not normal. I would check that the battlefield is correctly attached, same with all the mechs associated with it. Is the thumbscrew installed?
There are a lot of grip makers on Etsy. I would venture that you could find someone to make you a set if you sent them pics, measurements, or the gun/grips itself. Does anyone know what gun the shooter is based off of (if any)?
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:3 sets. Yours, a Dark Walnut, and the inlay, I kept for myself.
Bummer you're not making them anymore! I'd be in for a set. Those look great!
Quoted from Reznnate:I highly recommend the new MRS switch from sonic . I had the same problem and his magnetic switch works perfectly.
I installed mine about 2 weeks after I got my game. 100% worth it. Fast shots register, and slow shots don't get hung up by a physical switch. Makes an already difficult game less frustrating.
Can anyone that has any experience with powder coating their wireforms possibly chime in? To get my wireforms powder coated, can i have the PC applied onto the existing finish or do they need to be stripped bare first?
Thanks for the responses guys. I've looked into having them replated (exchanged) but I wanted to see if powder coating would be a little less expensive. The shop I'm trying to get a quote for is asking me questions. He said that they won't try to remove the existing plating but that they would prep it for powder (whatever the means). He said they will dip it for existing paint or powder. He hasn't given me a price yet. If he's not confident it will turn out, I may try another place or just fork over the cash. I might try to polish them first though, just to see if they will clean up, but from what I've seen, the plating is typically too thin and would have worn through.
Quoted from jonesjb:I'd strongly recommend looking into having it rebrasses. The plastic look of powder coating will do a disservice to the elegant art deco look of Shadow. Besides, the brass is a relatively unique feature of Shadow, why get rid of that?
Powdercoat doesnt look plasticky imo. I would get a clear coat put on top to make it glossy and durable. I think it would last longer than plating. Also, was going to compare the costs and if it isnt much different I would consider getting it plated. There are also brass/gold looking types of powdercoat that would mimic the plating quite well I think.
Quoted from monkfe:I went black...too late to go back...
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Do you regret it?
Quoted from Pinkitten:I may have the overlay decal you want. There were at least two decals with different shades of grey, a darker one that matched well and a lighter one that is slightly lighter than the playfield grey. I’ll take a pic of the decal I have and you can let me know if you want it. I only ended up using the small circular green decal.
If the darker decal is still available, I would take it.
Quoted from KnockerPTSD:I have a thin strip light attached along the top edge of the shroud behind the paddle. It makes a huge difference. I had experimented with many spot light positions but this gave the most even lighting to the Battlefield and you cant see it from a players perspective.
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Do you have any problems with the ball hitting the strip? I thought about doing this too, but in my game, the ball will sometimes hit the shroud hard enough that it bounces back onto the battlefield.
it looks right to me. Is the nylon stop nut that secures the plate the the plunger tightened sufficiently? Your coil and coil stop are secured with little to no play? There seems to be a lot of play on that plate.
Quoted from mrgregb123:Yes, all nuts are fully secured. The only play of any kind in this entire mech is that plunger that goes in the coil can be rotated - the reset plate itself stops the rotation when either end hits the bracket. I would imagine this is intended. It's not out of the ordinary. The only way I can see to fix this is for the plunger and therefore the coil opening to be closer to the bracket, which would allow it less play. But nothing is bent odd or in a way that would move the plunger further away from the bracket....maybe the back (brass) coil stop SHOULD be bent down to angle the coil that way? How is yours?
Mine does actually have quite a bit of play on either side of it like yours. Based off of that, I would guess that the bottoms of your drop targets are worn away from over the years. If I manually push where the stop nut is, there aren't any problems with the plate catching the drop targets and pushing them up. Is yours like that?
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Quoted from epeabs:Just installed a colorDMD LCD in my Shadow. What a huge improvement over stock. The coloring done is awesome.
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I need one of those on my game too, and a new set of plastics...and new mantis ramps...
I think with some creativity and decent skills, you could probably cut one out of black PVC pipe, if in a bind...
Quoted from chuckwurt:Same. I can loop R&Ms all day cause it barely makes it around most of the time. Haha.
Once you hit 3 fast ones in a row on shadow, I usually completely whiff the next one. Haha
Your loop on R&M is not adjusted correctly if it dribbles around. On my R&M, the 2nd loop is blazingly fast and is nearly impossible to hit a 3rd time without it being a complete fluke. My Shadow is the same; my best is about 3 I think also 
Quoted from Jodannar:Pulled apart the mech tonight. Was covered in grease at the pivots. Switch adjusted and registers when the target is in the down position, opto for sanctum is also registering. Machine is complaining that the wall target is bad but that doesn’t make sense to me as the switch is open with the target up and loses with it closed now. I’ve read all I can find on the mech and it all seems like it should be right for me[quoted image]
Did you check that the switch works in switch test and that the coil works in coil test?
Quoted from Jodannar:Yes switch works in switch edge test and both coils fire in coil test mode.
How does it work in-game? Are you able to go through the locking, requalify lock etc, and start MB properly?
Quoted from Jodannar:In game. Doesn’t drop the target, doesn’t turn on the magnet to grab, but will do so when in test
Update: all now working after powering on the machine this morning. Perhaps switch moved a little to now be reliable, unsure as it made it tight.
I would suspect the opto in the Sanctum is flaky. If it continues to happen intermittently, I would replace that opto.
Quoted from woody76:That groove is where another one of those C washer things go. I forget what they are called.
E-clip
metallics-pins-rings-clips-807168-64_1000 (resized).jpgQuoted from wireable:Has anybody had any trouble with Mantis ramps rejecting?
The thin bit of metal that sits on the playfield at the entrance of the ramp is a fair bit thicker than the originals. Now when I shoot the ramp the ball often jumps a little bit off these pieces which causes the shot to brick.
I'm considering taking the ramps back out and sanding the underside of the metal as much as possible to make it thinner and sit closer to the playfield. Would this be sensible?
The ramp flaps should make the transition smooth from the pf to the ramp. Did you screw in the ramp extra tight?
Quoted from wireable:Yes, the flap is sitting very flush with the playfield. The problem is that the flap is quite a bit thicker than the original (I haven't measured it, but it is noticeable).
Loosen the ramp just a bit, you want the flap to create a smooth transition. If there is a sharp angle between the playfied, flap, and ramp, then you'll get rejects.
Speaking of welds, one of the welds broke on my launch wireform, and they are powdercoated. Any suggestions on how to fix the weld without messing up the powdercoat on that spot? The ball still launches to get a ball into play, but the launch isn't smooth. Not the end of the world but would like to fix it up somehow. Epoxy or JB Weld or something?
Wasn't playing my best game points-wise yesterday, but I managed to qualify Final Battle...
And f*ck me, my first attempt to make the mode hole shot and it ricochets off the post STDM, Ball 3 of course. I'm not a great player by any means and this would have been only my second time making it to Final Battle. Damn...
Quoted from chuckwurt:You can start it on the side saucer right? If so, I’m glad mine allows you to hold up the upper flipper on left orbit shots and it puts it in the saucer.
I'm not sure. If the left saucer behaves like it normally would, when Kahn MB isn't available, then that would make sense.
Quoted from Lmjdad:Would anyone happen to have an extra plastic for sale?
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I've got a few broken plastics on mine too, and sadly this is one of them. I'm going to pony up for a CPR set one of these days, in the mean time, check ebay. But my guess would be that this is a commonly broken piece.
Occasionally during MB, I'll get a ball into the battlefield, and it'll roll off but then get hung up on the plastics underneath. If I remember correctly, the plastics underneath aren't warped or anything. Does this happen commonly? Should I add a couple of extra washers to that clear plastic (to increase the pitch) so it rolls off easier? Usually during actual Battlefield, I'll just use the kicker arm to knock the ball back into play.
It doesn't happen often, but happens enough where it's annoying when you've got 2 balls in play, and one of them is hung up.
Quoted from chuckwurt:Taking that away from my game effectively guarantees that the average game will start 1-3 modes max. With how hard the modes are, I want to see them as often as possible.
And I’ll be using this exact game in tournaments all year. As long as the 4 player matches stay under 25 mins, I don’t care if they are getting Final battle every game. Haha.
I typically see 3 modes or so on an average game. The thing with Shadow is that when you're in the flow, it feels SOOOO good which means the modes come by a bit easier. Getting Super Vengeance in a 4 shot combo is the best! I also make it just a bit harder by going for the Laugh mode each game too.
Plus smashing the Kahn hole with the upper flipper has the most satisfying clunk. So good.
Quoted from chuckwurt:My god! What happened to your beautiful Aurich translite??
Quoted from chuckwurt:Perfect lighting! Well done. Enjoy!
Just a subtle jab, eh? I was thinking the same
Quoted from chuckwurt:So good. Hard to beat horde though.
I just wish I didn’t suck and could get to the second phase of this mode more often. Haha
I'm glad I'm not the only one. You would think it would be simple enough, but nope! I drain out almost every time.
And 100% agree on Horde!
Quoted from Aurich:I don't use Facebook, but a friend sent me a screenshot of someone from Brazil selling bootlegs of my Shadow package. I'm not particularly worried about it personally, but just a heads up that I doubt the quality is that great so might want to be aware that they exist. Not likely to be using the expensive printing process I do for one, but probably made out of a scan or low rez digital version for another.
You can spot the bootleg because they kindly erased my signature from the lower left, which I do actually appreciate, I don't want my name on your half assed product.
I wouldn't worry about it either. For one, those in the hobby know the "Aurich" package, and for two, I'm sure shipping kills any cost difference for the the buyer. Even for newbies, the alt art package really doesn't show up without your name attached to it, so I'm sure it would be an easy link.
Really shitty to know that your work was ripped off though. I'd be upset about it.
Quoted from Cliffy:pics below show the flipper bushing is well below the flipper frames centerline. My No-Hop™ frames brings the ball roll line perfectly in line with the flipper bat.
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Your inlane guides are lifesavers for every era of pinball. Thank you for doing the good work sir!
CPR usually has all the clear plastics from the original set; they don't do the plastic protectors that go underneath. that is an aftermarket item. In CPR's picture, they have the two kidney shaped plastics that I think you're all referring to. They should also include any other clear plastics from that game that came originally.
Quoted from curban:I joined the club a couple of weeks ago and am having trouble with my left ramp right made switch. I know this is a common problem and I have replaced the actuator with a long arm. Nevertheless, I still have the problem that either: 1) the ball can get hung-up on the actuator, or 2) the switch doesn't register.
Has anyone tried using an opto switch in this location? Is it even possible to have a normally open opto switch?
Search MRS switch in this thread. It's a pretty common mod. PM Sonic for details.
Quoted from curban:Thank you - exactly what I was looking for, but couldn't remember the name "MRS".
Yep, I have very few "must have" mods in general. for this game specifically, for the left ramp right diverter switch, this is a Must have mod.
Just checked in on Shadow prices...because why not. Are Shadows really going for 6-7K right now? non-restored?
Quoted from jonesjb:If you can get a deal. More toys and fun than Toy Story 4, but at half the price.
Seems crazy. Seems like not too long ago, the game broke the 4k mark, then recently the 5k mark. I've got a copy, just haven't looked at prices for it recently because I'm not in the market to sell currently. But at these prices...
Mantis ramps are worth the money. My ramps were re-welded together from a previous life, but that's one of the things that I want to replace. I put them in a friend's game and they're very nice.
Quoted from Squeakman:Mine are the same. Have been rewelded and falling apart again. I’m going to try the mantis ramps. I was just more curious if they play the same as the others and the fit is good.
There might be some adjustment that needs to be made fit-wise, but it should play the same. You'll be happy with them.
I got my Sanctum decal from Ministry yesterday (Jan 10) ordered Dec 27, shipped Dec 31, for those wondering. Kind of forgot about until I read the last few posts
Quoted from tiltmonster:You can look back to my post #10121 page 203, I went with all frosted bright white twin smd from comet, in my opinion I thought these looked the best with no color bleed. The artwork is beautiful on it's own and I didn't think it needed any other colored bulb enhancements. Whatever you decide, it's a beautiful backglass. Enjoy! [quoted image][quoted image]
Looks very nice. Colored LEDs ruin anything that aren't inserts IMO. The white looks perfect and shows the fidelity of the artwork that it highlights.
Quoted from cookpins:Tilt question for all. I have my tilt bob as low as it can go while still having some thread to keep the wing nut on, yet this seems to still be the most sensitive machine I have. Anyone else experience the same?
Your tilt bob is the absolute lowest it can go and you are still tilting? Me thinks you need to relax a bit or take off the bob if you don't want to tilt. Mine is set halfway and it's definitely more than fair.
One note is that B/W games don't have a "debounce" time set in. Meaning that if it detects 3 tilt bob touches in a short period of time (within seconds), you will tilt. Not like what modern games have where you can really rock the machine, can hear the bob touch several times, but only get one warning.
Set your machine up however you like, but I don't think the tilt sensitivity is the problem, no offense.
Totally unrelated, I'm working on installing new plastics and flashinstinct decals....and what a pain. It's been a few years since I completely shopped out my buddy's Shadow and I knew it would suck but not this much suck lol.
With the new decals, I was wondering which backboard decal you think would go with with the scheme? I know there are like 2 or 3 variations out there. Anyone have any suggestions?
Quoted from paulbaptiste:The blue city decal would look better than the brick in my opinion. I’m not aware of any others though.
Not a fan of the brickat all. There were 3 city decals that I could find, one was all blue, one had a purple to blue sky, and the third one, the buildings were not the same as those on the plastics, so I went with the second option. Bonus is that it is made by a Pinsider, and it was the cheapest out of the three
Quoted from Luke_Nukem:I had Flash do mine in purple instead of blue to match my backboard decal and overall color scheme.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I just put in an order of purple flasher domes. I didn't know you could ask for purple decals either. Oh well. It'll still look good!
Quoted from cookpins:I think this is what is making it feel like it's "too sensitive". Thanks for sharing that insight.
Yeah, it'll count every bounce with a big move. You cant do that with the older games
Use the ear plug mod to help with the "sensitivity".
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:i think they all line up like this. ive always heard washers is the fix.
Mine needs washers. The mini playfied lines up properly but I need like 4 washers on the nearest side (to the player) of the VUK in order for the wireform to line up properly.
Quoted from madamyates:Having an issue where the mini playfield drop targets won’t pop back up during battlefield. You hit a target one time and it stays down. Everything works in test so it has me stumped. Any thoughts?
First thought would be switch test.
Next would be solenoid test.
Quoted from madamyates:Reseated the drop target board and it works again. Also, I noticed I am at LX-2 code. Ordered the LX-6 ROM.
That was my next suggestion. Nice and easy fix!
Quoted from Methos:Does anyone have an original translite and speaker panel for sale?
Thanks.
Hey Mark. I've got them. I'll text you.
Quoted from smognote:Yes I’m in the club. Thank you for the early Christmas present from my mother in law
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Wait what!? Your MIL bought you a Shadow?
Quoted from JONESDS:The left inlane guide on my Shadow keeps shifting over time after realigning it. It's annoying to fix it so you have a smooth transition from the inlane to the flipper and then have it gradually move over time so it results in a bump. Is there a trick to prevent this?
Tighten down snug. If it is worn, it might warrant Cliffy inlanes.
http://www.passionforpinball.com/shadow.htm
Otherwise use Titan slim flipper rings (aka low bounce)
Quoted from JONESDS:Should have mentioned that I installed the cliffy inlanes too. I could look into the width of the flipper rings you suggested, that sounds worth trying.
My TWD did this from the factory and the low bounce flipper rings did the trick for me. They're thinner than traditional sized flipper rings and might help smooth out the transition a little bit more.
Quoted from madamyates:Getting a lot of air balls on the left side when those two stand up targets are bashed. Occasionally it’s so wild that it jumps over the left flipper and drains. I’ve already had one ring break because of it. Does anyone have suggestions on how to stop the air balls?
Bend the target bracket forward a little bit (towards the player) and/or replace the target foam behind the target face.
Quoted from KnockerPTSD:The switch at the back of the battlefield going down the tube ramp works in test mode but never works during gameplay. Looking for advice. New capacitor on the switch maybe?
Test it with a ball. If it doesn't work with a ball but with your finger, then it's an adjustment issue.
Quoted from o-din:I've got a good one here to see if anybody has seen before. I finished putting my original Shadow back together and it is sitting next to the other one.
On this one when the battlefield is active, the paddle fires whenever I move it left or right instead of waiting for the ball to break the opto beam. I have checked the optos and the paddle does not break the beam when it is just moving left or right and there is no tugging on wires and vibration isn't interrupting them. It is however running LX-5 Rom as it is a reimport, where the other is the latest LA-6.
The other one had an intermittent opto issue only with the glass on and that was fun to figure out, but I adjusted the line of sight of the optos to fix it and this is not that. I'm almost to the point of swapping Roms and boards back and forth until I get to the culprit on this one.
Flaky optos will randomly fire. I've spent a fair amount of time trying to troubleshoot them (outside of cleaning them and making sure wires are good) and have just learned to replace both sides. They're relatively cheap and usually solved my problems. YMMV but that's been my experience.
Quoted from o-din:Yeah, I have considered that and do have a new set. It is odd though how they would become flaky only when I hit the flipper button and the paddle starts moving. I've been in switch test and jarred them and they still work just fine and the line of sight is dialed in now. I've got plenty of time, and fortunately another Shadow sitting next to it.
That does seem a little strange. I'm still not sure the ROMs have anything to do with it, but like you said, you got time and another Shadow right next to it so not much loss in trying to figure it out!
Quoted from Chitownpinball:Did someone say there was new code being made for this game? Is that something I dreamt?
Ive got my shadow offered for trade on a tmnt prem. Had a couple bites but nothing solid yet. New code might keep it around a little longer. Either shadow has gotta go to get a newer stern, or I need to find a semi project system 11 around 2k and shadow can stay. Havent had either thing hit yet.
Why not sell TS and buy a TMNT prem?
Trading for specific games can always be challenging. You have to find the right person or be open to some offers. Just my observation.
Everything works in-game?
If so, then probably not a fuse issue. Go into switch edge and hit the switches manually. If they activate, then start a game and hit the switches.
If they work, then it's probably the game detecting that they haven't been hit in a while. WPC games do that.
If the mini kicker doesn't work, then it's an opto issue. Once they start going flaky (intermittent working) try cleaning with iso alcohol. If the problem persists, then replace them.
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