Quoted from Pbgixxer:What’s the latest U.S rom version available ? Mine says LA-4 .
IPDB says latest for North America is LA-6
(Topic ID: 46571)
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Shadow, The
Bally, 1994
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Quoted from Pbgixxer:Thanks . I don’t burn my own so I’d like to find a source . Only one I’ve found so far is LX-6 .
Planetary has LX-6 as the latest with the comment that this “X” (export) version supersedes all “A” versions. So this LX-6 looks like the one to get. Not near my game to double check.
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/Williams/tech/roms/shadow.html
Quoted from Rondogg:I don't see any compelling reason to switch from LA4 to LX6. Is there any reason I should be aware of?
This is what it says about the ROM version changes in LX6:
Changes from revision L-5:
Fixed adjustment A.1 07 Replay Start. It now correctly adjusts
in the range 10 million to 900 million.
Version LX-5
Date: May 1, 1995
U6: Checksum: A205 (X - Export)
The export version supersedes all A ROMs.
Changes from revision L-4:
Fixed the jackpot lights being stuck on from collecting
a Khan super jackpot during the grace period.
Fixed the 5x6 font used in the skill shot screen. The number
"7" showed up as a "6".
Fixed a glitch in the enter initials screen.
Fixed buy-in cancel to require both flippers to be hit.
Farley mode can now score more than 99 million.
Playing the same mode twice in one ball now allows the scores
to be added together.
Tilting now cancels multiball autofire.
1 year later
Quoted from radial_head:I was about to recommend exactly against this, but I guess everybody's eyes are different.
Spotlights are a must on this game IMO.
If you do an LED job on a WPC game without an LEDOCD board, well, you've done an incomplete LED job.
It gets expensive.
Quick question…what about LED in the backbox GI?
Was thinking of reducing load and temperature there. Does The Shadow do GI dimming that would be missed in the backbox?
Quoted from dudah:I posted the art file here, find it in the image gallery and print, easy.
Thanks dudah
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vj5HrpVlPI3Bg2McCLz3u5YX_qhZCGPm/view
Quoted from jonesjb:Hahaha, yes well for those who want to settle there IS that one. But it's definitely not the same - A lot of work went into the one I designed... From the color matching, to the halftone pattern, to the perfect alignment across windows and buildings.
My bad. Didn’t even look at it closely to notice any differences.
Happy with the brick pattern I installed years ago.
4 months later
Quoted from Fatsquatch:What should I check out in relation to mini-playfield lights that don’t work?
(The connectors on the lightboards look okay, and I can’t find any broken, pinched or cut wires. Also, all fuses on the power driver board test okay.)
As a start..
Do other lamps in the mini playfield row or column also not work?
With power off check continuity from mini lamps to driver board.
Power on, check for voltage at power board during all lamp test.
Attached are lamp matrix chart details.
350FD9F1-E7DD-42EC-85E9-1E99EC39536D (resized).pngE08C001E-C8C7-4E5A-A28D-52C6EA1169B2 (resized).pngEA6152E6-58D3-4BB6-A560-15644623FFDA (resized).png
FAA9A764-4ED7-468D-AEEC-2A8A11D011E7 (resized).pngQuoted from Fatsquatch:No, they all work. It’s literally just the lights on the mini playfield that are dead.
I will poke around some more via your suggestions. Thanks for the help!
Bulbs good? Unlikely it’s all of them but it happens.
Try unplugging and reinserting the connectors. This may get it going again (although if they need re-pinning it may be temporary).
Quoted from Fatsquatch:It WAS the bulbs. ALL 10 of them. All of which were LEDs.
(It’s yet another thing with this machine that proves it HAD NOT been “fully shopped” by the previous owner before I bought it.)
Thanks again for all the help!
Glad it was something easy.
11 months later
Cleaning out some unused parts. Listed an Original Pinbotz backboard decal- unused. Make an offer. Thx
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/159501
IMG_9907 (resized).jpegQuoted from Luke_Nukem:I held mine all the way to one side with the piston maxed inside the coil, then backed it off just a hair and then I tightened the the 2 set screws on the locking sleeve under the playfield. You could even go as far as drilling 2 small holes on the side of each ramp and install a rubber grommet. Will never repair or replace them again [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Good explanation. Thx.
Mine need to be adjusted and of course my ramp weld is busted. When I get around to it will probably inspect and/or replace the coil stops because it seems the travel is too far (possibly in both directions).
Haven't checked but are the armatures available in case they have worn short?
In looking at the manual, it recommends a teflon grease application to the crank/armature interface. Wasn't aware of that.
2 months later
Quoted from herbertbsharp:Any chance someone could help me out with a picture of the switch connectors on the CPU board, specifically J206-J209? I'm chasing down an absolutely maddening switch problem and want to make sure the wires are connected properly.
IMG_0551 (resized).png
Edit: Apologies, Wrong game above. Here’s my Shadow.
IMG_0553 (resized).jpegQuoted from DumbAss:That's because the image is for a WPC-89 standard (non-security) rather than a WPC-S (security).
Sorry, had all of my game photos on my phone and picked the wrong one. Added the correct photo back above but you are in better hands now.
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