Hi gang. Close to joining Shadow club. Wondering if there is a consensus on best backbox side art decals? Thinking about restoring this. Thanks for any leads.
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Hi gang. Close to joining Shadow club. Wondering if there is a consensus on best backbox side art decals? Thinking about restoring this. Thanks for any leads.
Quoted from bartron:Plating stuff for my re-furb[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Looks great! Where did you have it done and how much did you pay (if you don't mind sharing)?
Hi guys, I have a question about the upper flipper. How should it be oriented? Should it be sitting flat against the metal ball guide rail? Or sitting off the rail and flush with the plastic that is above it?
I just did a full flipper rebuild. It is now almost impossible to make the Kahn multiball hole. The flippers are strong and screaming fast now, maybe that is just how the game is supposed to play.
Thanks,
Quoted from gjm7777:It's going to be trial and error.
I've adjusted mine so I can make the shadow loop, or if I shoot the left orbit and hold the right flipper it puts the ball in the khan hole 99% of the time.
Another cool thing is you can also cradle the ball on the upper flipper once the khan hole ejects it out.
Once you get this dialed in it makes the game that much more amazing.
Any chance you could snap a pic of your flipper from above?
Wow, okay interesting. I expected it to be "lower". I will adjust mine to a similar height. Thanks for posting.
Is this a common issue or discussion point? I just joined the club. Seems like there would be a good amount of variety here. Wonder if anyone else can weigh in.
Quoted from isJ:I always align my top flippers so they don't interfere with a ball rolling over them without flipping (ie: they are part of the orbit, and the ball should return to the bottom flipper if the top flipper isn't flipped). I can snap a pic tonight if we really want to dissect this
Would love a pic. Thanks.
Related- seems that earlier WPC games (wh20 comes to mind) would put the handy little alignment hole in the place where you should set the flipper orientation. I believe they were designed so a toothpick in the hole set the location. They must have stopped this by the release of shadow.
I just watched the Shadow promo video one Youtube. Here is an image of the upper flipper from the video. Definitely doesn't look flat against the metal rail but the tip of the flipper sits a little lower than flush to the plastic above the flipper. One would assume this is how Brian E designed it if this was the game used to shoot this video for the game's release
Edit: I just looked closer at my game. The flipper in the video may in fact be sitting flat against the metal ballguide.
shadow (resized).JPG
Guys, anyone have a problem with the mode start/extra ball hole? Problem is that sometimes the mech is just not strong enough to push the ball out.
It happens every other game or so. Ball registers the switch, but the solenoid / plunger just taps the ball without enough strength to get it out. I have to turn off game, take glass off, etc.
I can clean and rebuild the mech with new coil sleeve, but wanted to start here to see if this is a common problem?
Quoted from mrgregb123:So is there anyone who can reliably re-plate or "re-brass" the wireforms at a reasonable price? Some of the prices I've seen are only a few bucks less than buying the whole wireform new...there must be someone more reasonable?
What is price you are seeing? And where can you still buy new wireforms? I am interested too.
Quoted from Elicash:Guys, still looking for a lead on quality original backbox decals. Lemme know thanks.
I found the back box decals on Pinball Decals Inc. Anyone have experience with these guys? Good quality?
Quoted from woody76:hey guys, I got to gauge interest in doing a run of the metal battlefield shrouds. Another guy did a handful but has since walked away. The one I do will be an exact replica to where his was slightly different. I assume he could not do all the bends and stuff. I can offer in brass, chrome, and black nickel and can even do some powder coated ones if need and maybe even sell some as raw steel and you can do whatever you want to them. It really only makes sense to do at least 50 pieces. I am thinking they will be $200 plus shipping with brass, chrome, or black nickel plating. If there is enough interest I will pursue it if not i will not. Please PM me if it is something you are interested in.
Can you post a picture of this? I am new to the club so I am not familiar. But sounds cool.
I just watched the movie for first time a couple weeks ago. It wasn't bad! Really liked all the film noir elements. The story is pretty hoakey, but it is based on a pulp story after all.
It is crazy how well integrated the game is with the movie storyline
Quoted from mrgregb123:Just finished my restore. What do you think?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Looks great! Is that a new playfield? How was the dimple and hole alignment? any specific issues with dialing it in for final playability?
I am thinking about buying a new pf
Quoted from Djshakes:I'm running all light blue post in my game so upgraded these to get rid of nasty yellow. I might swap all squares to dark blue translucent as the don't make light blue but it would be over $100. Still on the fence but why stop short. I did so much to this.[quoted image]
What are you using there for the target foam?
Does anyone have some shop out pics of the back area behind the Battlefield? Specifically where the two little plastic ramps mount to the backboard?
Mine has some wonky shims and rubber back there. Want to see what it is supposed to look like.
Thanks!
I wouldn't mess around clearcoating a game that looks that nice, especially for the age of the game... That playfield looks near perfect. Unless you got Kruzman or HEP level skills, why would you clearcoat it?
Quoted from Digimatt:Help from the group trying to adjust my upper right flipper. Can’t tell what is right. I have the flipper set so if you hit a perfect left loop it feeds the right tip of the flipper but if your slightly off or a slow roller it tends to bounce off the bat either resulting in a drain or left flipper feed. Is there a correct method? It looks aligned well but still seeming to have an issue game to game.
[quoted image]
I was obsessing over this a few pages back when I picked up my game. The upper flipper should rest against the metal rail. This is how the game was designed as a shot from right flipper through left orbit and past the upper flipper will return the ball back to the lower right flipper.
I also looked at the game flyer and promo video (from 1994) and confirmed the game in these pics have the flipper flat against the metal ball guide.
This does in fact make the Kahn hole shot quite difficult. I suspect this is by design.
Of course - it is your game and you can set the flipper angle however you want. Many on here have changed this. But i did a good amount of digging on it.
Quoted from Sonic:Thanks Stan! We like creating these as mods (like Creech, Transporter, Mustang, Diner, etc...) but since both of us are engineers - we love fixing oversights....so some of our switches were created for that purpose - like Shadow & Rob Zombie....
Matt & Dan
M&M Creations
Off topic - but have you considered making one for the Taxi skill shot? That seems to be a common issue where the switch itself slows the ball enough to make several revolutions difficult. I believe it would be similar to the Diner cup? Although i dont have a Diner.
Okay wow, cool. I am way behind in the Taxi thread, so I missed this! I will send a PM. Likely will buy for both Shadow and Taxi.
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