(Topic ID: 46571)
Linked Games
Shadow, The
Bally, 1994
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Algonquin, IL
2 weeks later
Quoted from mjthompson:I'm going to shop a Shadow soon. At this point I'm thinking I'll use purple Titan rubber (flippers & rings) but I'd like thoughts on other colors that might work well with the game.
I do translucent on all my games and love it! Regardless, change the star posts and flasher domes to purple, you won't be disappointed.
1 month later
1 month later
Quoted from Luppin:What about this switch, helping detecting balls on the right diverted left ramp? Does it work well as advertised? Is this a custom switch, or does it have a part number?
ebay.com link » Shadow Pinball Left Ramp Switch Fix To Stop Air Balls Missing Made Shots
Looks like the same one http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=380
2 weeks later
Finished moving mine in today. Put in the new speaker panel I got from a fellow pinsider. Wired up the speaker LED rings. It was a bit difficult to get the DMD to sit in the channel properly but a little force and it's in there! They're a little bright to look at directly, but fine when you're playing. Still have some mini playfield spotlights to install. But I'm beat for today.
The speaker LED rings were 90mm LED rings off of eBay. I wired them up to the existing 12V I have going to the extra LED strips.
ebay.com link: 2X 90mm Green 24 LED SMD Car Angel Eyes HeadLight Halo Ring Light Bulb
Are there any known bugs? I'm running LA6 patched for LED's. Was playing a 2 player game and entered my high score OK, but also got loop champion and it wouldn't let me properly select letters. I selected what I thought were my initials but it showed up as all blanks.
1 week later
4 months later
1 week later
Quoted from Cserold:Nice. Where did you get the speaker lights?
Thanks! I made em. Well, I bought em off eBay and wired them up to 12V.
Toughest part was finding ones the right size. They're 90mm and on eBay as "car halo angel eyes". People stick em in their headlights.
The newest rage is these COB (chip on board) ones, all integrated into the circuit board and much thinner.
ebay.com link: US 90mm 2PCS Red 105 COB LEDs for Angel Eyes Halo Ring Headlight Fog Light
1 week later
Quoted from Cserold:I ordered some of the circular 90mm lights you installed in your shadow speakers. Now I have to figure out how to hook the wires below into 12V as you said. Would you let me know exactly how you wired this up to 12V? If you have links to any specific adapters, wire, etc, that I need to get the job done I'd really appreciate you sending them. Thanks for your help!
I put an alligator clip on the red and clipped it on to the 12V test point on the driver board. Put a spade connector on the black and put that on the ground braid connection. Easy peasy.
4 months later
I think Shadow is the hardest game I own.
It plays so fast and there's so much bounce, you really need to control the ball.
The modes are great! I pushed my mode timers up to 55 seconds and finally made it to the end of Save Tram mode for the first time 
1 week later
Accidentally played my best game tonight. So I completed the scenes and was expecting the final battle... but nothing.
Do I have to literally hit all the shots of all the modes to get "Complete all scenes"? I thought just getting all of them was all you had to do...
Quoted from GRUMPY:Complete the scenes, battle field, khan multiball and shadow multiball and into the saucer.
I worked through all the scenes but the insert for "complete all scenes" didn't light, the modes just started over. I didn't necessarily complete them as I probably drained during at least one. Didn't hit the saucer, guess I'll try again next time
1 week later
Quoted from RyKatEm:Hello! I have loved our Shadow for years but never was the one in charge of any maintenance. I recently moved the machine downstairs (from an unused storage area that was supposed to be a gameroom) after watching YouTube to learn how to make that happen with folding down the backbox and all. Now I'm trying to get up to speed and get a few things working.
I guess I need to start by ordering a rubber ring kit? Sources? I know I can get that on eBay but don't know what is best.
I also have to fix a battery leak issue - was a separate board - not sure if that is standard or not.
I also can't seem to get the lockdown bar back on. The lever seems to be working properly and I know how that works. I just can't push it down the last 1/2 inch or so. So frustrating!!!!
Thanks for any help!!!!!! Does anyone know of someone who does repairs in the Allentown, PA area?
Black/white rubber is a thing of the past. Those eBay kits are garbage. You can splurge for some Titan rubbers, I prefer the translucent silicone ones from PinballLife.
You need to scrap those batteries before they eat the whole game! There's plenty of people in the Allentown area that do great work. I'm sure some locals will chime in. They can pop in a NVRAM (eliminates batteries), or a button cell battery is a cheap easy fix that won't leak and will last a long time.
Make sure the lockdown lever is pulled all the way to the left and the glass is all the way up. If you're still having trouble you can adjust the brass screws on the top of the lockdown receiver to get it in there.
Finally got to the final battle tonight. Missed finishing it by 5 shots.
Drained my balls, thought I was done, then I realized I had a ball stuck.
I looked up and saw that the left diverter had a ball trapped on the left side.
I laughed and tried to snap a picture, just as it was taking the game went into ball search mode and drained the ball immediately.
I felt like an idiot.
I was killing it for a while, guessed I got a high score, went to enter it and only got high score #3 when I was expecting GC.
This game is real bittersweet sometimes!
Quoted from pinballjah:Recently joined the Shadow club. Does anyone know if you can buy the right hand side plastic anywhere (below is a picture of the broken piece)? Also, I noticed on the mini playfield, the ramp from which the ball enters the mini playfield seems to be too close to the bottom two targets. Can this problem be resolved easily? I have attached a couple photos of the playfield. Thanks for your help!
There's one on eBay
The above post has me a bit concerned. My kicker works fine, but I've never taken it apart so don't know what it looks like in there.
This guy recently popped up on eBay - ebay.com link: NOS Williams Shadow pinball mini playfield repair pinion gear kit 50032
I believe there's a new brass gear in there. What else?
Who has some info on preventative maintenance to get the most life out of the kicker assembly?
Quoted from boiydiego:Does somebody have the mini playfield guard they would want sell to me , if yes send me a pm thx in advance
If you can't find one, it'd be easy enough to bend out of sheet metal
2 weeks later
1 month later
Quoted from GRUMPY:You need to check the switches for the drop target.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-shadow-sanctum-target-repair
Good to rebuild it. I had a bad diode on my dropped switch.
Quoted from Robertstone0407:I'm ok with a used good looking set. Prefer new but need a good looking set. Going all out on this shadow
There was a decent cheap used set at Expo last year. I almost bought it.
3 weeks later
Quoted from hocuslocus:Finally got to join the club,
I noticed after shooting the left orbit the ball goes straight down the middle. is there a a lot of adjustments with this game? I haven't messed with the ball guide yet. I know a few other games from this era are really sensitive & have to be dead level, everything has to be set just right.
never owned one and have only played one a handful of times, anything I should be looking for?
It really does need to be level just perfectly. Mine did the same and tweaking the legs just a little made it change. Been meaning to level it better but having too much fun playing it as is 
Read: Too lazy to take off the glass
I'm also going to move the upper flipper back a bit so it's just flush against the ball guide. Now it's a few millimeters out and the upper loop shot is pretty hard, Khan saucer is VERY hard. With speed, damn near impossible.
Quoted from xsonics2k2:What is the best way to bulletproof a Shadow?
Get the shooter lane cliffy
I put an aftermarket decal over the sanctum lock (pic in my history), I also put mylar on top of it
Plastic protectors on every game, mylar on every ball drop spot
Long switch (or bend switch armature) on the right habitrail of the left ramp, rubber posts behind the N/G standup targets - to minimize airballs
Otherwise I replace all the bridges/electrolytic caps that have to do with power supplies (don't forget opto board!), convert to LED's, and play the shit out of it.
3 months later
Here's the backboard city mod that was given to me. I believe I printed the Illustrator file 1
and it fit perfect.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vj5HrpVlPI3Bg2McCLz3u5YX_qhZCGPm/view?usp=sharing
3 weeks later
Quoted from gnome:Found a couple A-20417 Shadow Repair Kit, Pinion Gear 50032 . Any interest before I throw them on Ebay? Looking at $30 each if I don't have to pay ebay fees.....
PM sent!
1 month later
Quoted from Parzival:I'm still looking for one too
Trident made them https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/shadow-sanctum-new-decal-mod
3 months later
Quoted from Mudflaps:Yeah, I’ve done all the usual. Disconnected and reconnected. Adjusted external sub. Disconnected external sub, etc. Volume is set to maybe 70%.
The only thing I haven’t done is run a multimeter to the sub wires, so that’s next. Because the volume is there (but very faint), I’m not sure that’s the issue.
Is it the correct speaker? Correct impedance? Is your sound board running hot?
3 weeks later
2 months later
Quoted from Pingball:For your viewing pleasure
That's pretty nutso. It looks like the habitrail isn't very well secured into the playfield.
1 month later
Quoted from Scoot:Sometimes my TS will think the ball drained when I am still playing. Sometimes it will spit out two balls. Most of the time it plays normal. All the trough optos seem to be working ok in switch mode. It seems to happen randomly. Anyone have any suggestions?
I had a comparable issue. Replacing the capacitor on the opto board fixed it.
Quoted from Scoot:Curious how you figured out a cap was bad? Was it by a visual check or can you test them with a meter?
It appeared fine, upon pulling it on the base it barely started to leak. Tested bad out of circuit. It's a cheap part I replace it on all my games now.
Quoted from rottenrobert1313:Thanks. I'll pull the board again and check the diodes.
Replace the capacitor while you're at it. This was causing switch issues on mine.
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:I looked for over a year, finally got one off ebay. had to pay like $250 for it, but I jumped on it. nobody makes them, almost impossible to find. prob a 3d printer is your only option.
Perhaps vacuum forming would be viable? Paging Freeplay40 ...
1 month later
Quoted from Scoot:Last ones I promise! I purchased this phurba a while back and finally got around to getting it on. I also changed out the coin door lights to match the color theme. All I got left to do is wait for the translight from Aurich and this baby will be done.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Green coin rejects look sick! Did you swap out the whole plastic or just LED's?
Quoted from Scoot:You have to replace the plastics. Yes I got them from pinball life. I like them since you can add any color you like. I was debating with blue or even a color changer. I have them for all my machines.
[quoted image]
Extremely cool! Haven't seen these before. I never cared for the way they announce new products.
My ramp plastics were yellowed and tired, laser cut some in UV blue.
It's obvious with the lights on, but I play in the dark. The effect is there, but much more subtle. Flows well with the blues/purples on the playfield, ever so slight glow from the edge.
Thoughts?
IMG_20190108_223033 (resized).jpgIMG_20190108_223047 (resized).jpg 4 weeks later
Quoted from RockBass14:I put some mirror blades on my shadow. I like them, but as you can see in the pic, I have a “warping problem”. While I can lift the playfield, I cannot do so without rubbing the mirrors, I bought the protectors from PL and they won’t even fit. Eventually, I think these scratch and look awful so I’m thinking about removing them for a future pin and replacing with some blade art. Do you guys have any favorite blade art for TS?
[quoted image]
How do the corners of your cabinet look? Splitting at all?
3 months later
Who's good at hitting the upper loop and saucer?
I can maybe hit it 1 out of 10 tries.
My flipper is aligned to barely rest on the ball guide behind it, perhaps my game needs to be re-leveled?
That being said, I can hit the battlefield shot pretty consistently from the upper flipper
Quoted from damadczar:My loop champion score is 5... and I feel that was a fluke. I can consistently do it 2 or 3 times at max... I'm still not sure how I did it 5 times.
Well now I don't feel so bad!
I can get 2 loops in decently often, but after that it just gets too fast!
Maybe I should throw down some sand in the loop to slow it down a bit.
2 weeks later
What scoot said, get a multimeter and check it for a short. Id also inspect it closely and look for any shorts.
Further, I'd trace the wire back to the harness and ensure that it didn't get pinched of the wrong connector plugged in anywhere
Quoted from isJ:I know this has been posted before countless times but I can't for the life of me find it!
Anyone have a link to the recommended switch to eliminate ball hang up on the left ramp (when diverted to the right)? Thanks!
One with a long straight arm. I bent mine up just a little bit after I was still getting the occasional fly off
Quoted from gunstarhero:Those are good ones... plus it really does need a decal for the back board. It looks so plain with just the 3 flashers there.
The above, plus switching out the orange flasher domes for purple ones (and purple LED flashers) makes a huge difference.
2 weeks later
When I make a left loop shot it drains if I don't hit it with the (lower) right flipper.
Which flipper should it be feeding to?
My upper flipper is just a couple millimeters away from the ball guide behind it. It's fairly difficult to get the saucer or loop shot with it.
Perhaps re-level?
1 week later
Quoted from Chitownpinball:I dont care for it. At all.
Its huge and cumbersome behind the speaker panel/backbox too.
I just dont care for it. Also LCD is old technology to me.
Not to split hairs, but LED technology is older than LCD...
1 week later
Quoted from ramegoom:These two components
How is nobody 3D printing these?
Quoted from ramegoom:They're available new.
Molded out of reinforced nylon. But if you 3D the part, it'll wear out quickly. You can't find filled material like this for printing.
Didn't know that, link please?
Quoted from Lermods:I get a lot of airballs off the left ramp targets, is there a fix for this?
Apparently if you cut a section of flipper rubber and use it to replace the target foam it works great.
What jawjaw said is also true, if the switch is real beat up it's probably best to just replace it.
I'm a cheapo DIY-er and my switches are fine so that's the route I'm going to take.
2 months later
Quoted from Djshakes:Anyone know if a darker decal is made? This looks so stupid. How could they get the color this wrong. I'm thinking of having some made if this is the best out there.[quoted image]
This is a near perfect match - https://plaidonline.com/products/apple-barrel-colors-country-grey-2-oz
Check this also https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/shadow-sanctum-repair-2017
I put the green dot on and love it
Quoted from spikelou2:Any one have the alternative speaker panel ...I have the alternative translite but need the alternative speaker panel ..
I needed one also. You can tell Aurich and he'll keep you on a list if he ever does another run. I put up an ad and got lucky and found one from a Pinsider.
1 month later
Quoted from Chitownpinball:Are these the stern buttons? I dont see a wpc in green.
Read the post, they're translucent WPC repros from Pinball Life with green LED's in there.
Quoted from gjm7777:The switch extender in any fashion is a must in my opinion.
What really sucks though is replacing that switch, from the soldering to the mounting of it.
You don't have to replace the switch itself, just the metal lever arm. It is easily removable from the switch body.
2 months later
1 week later
Quoted from woody76:there is not, that old brass coating they used back in the day will rub right off. You can send them to Robert to be powder coated a brass looking color if you do not want to have them brassed by Chris
I, too made this mistake trying to clean my wireforms with a green 3M pad. Too cheap to get them replated but also aren’t satisfied with the glossy “metal” powders. Thinking of doing my whole game in a dark metallic blue...
3 weeks later
Quoted from Chitownpinball:I need to do my star posts in purple....every time I see it Im jealous.
Don't forget the flasher domes while you're at it!
Quoted from mrgregb123:Glad you asked. DO NOT DO IT. It was a nightmare.
I've restored 5 games - all Williams/Bally. This game has the least "stuff" and yet took 4x longer than any other game I've done. Why? Because I used a CPR playfield. And the dimples are ALL wrong. OK let me be fair, 10% of the dimples were in the right place. The rest are either missing completely are off by as much as half an inch.
The through-holes on the top side were pretty good, I cannot recall any misalignments. But the clear coat that CPR uses is garbage. Put it this way, I've played 10 games on it so far since restore - using pristine Ball Baron Ninja balls - and yet most of the playfield is already scratched up and looks well-played.
Contrast this with the restores I've done...for example my TAF has 1,200 plays since restore and the playfield has far fewer scratches than the CPR Shadow with 10 plays on it. I use PPG auto clear coat. Whatever CPR uses ain't it.
Sorry to put a damper on your possible project, but if I can save someone the hassle, I want to do that. I don't know if there are NOS or other brand pfs out there for The Shadow, but I wouldn't use a CPR pf again if it was free.
-------
The only "dial in" issues I had, were mostly Battlefield related. The hammer swiveled side to side when in motion (common issue). This is fixed by using pliers to carefully close the bracket/fork it sits in so that there is only enough room for it to settle on (in the center groove but not pushing through). Also had to fix the slow-dropping targets using a tip I got on here - car wax. Sped those babies right up. Oh, and one of the rails the hammer rides on - the one with the black bumpers on each end - one side was broken off, causing the hammer to sometimes come off track and not move. I don't know if you can buy this part (it's a tiny piece that screws into the rail) but I used a couple of lock-nuts and a screw to accomplish the goal....until I can find that piece.
That's very discouraging to hear for such a premium priced product!
3 weeks later
Quoted from Djshakes:Hers some of Congo.[quoted image][quoted image]
Wow, incredible effort and execution!
7 months later
I had the typical air balls off the left ramp targets.
They are in OK shape and not bent.
Replaced the foam with flipper rubber as was advised and it's VERY fast bounceback, lots more drains than anything.
The foam absorbs the impact better vs. the rubber bouncing it back real fast.
The flipper rubber also doesn't adhere well to the metal and keeps falling off after a few games.
Anyone think a plastic protector above the targets would help?
1 week later
1 year later
Quoted from paulbaptiste:I should have an Extra. Will confirm.
I posted the art file here, find it in the image gallery and print, easy.
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